Hardware — Icrontic

Help with ram!!

morfeu — Thu, 29 Jul 2004 15:04:20 +0000

Hello guys!

I need some help!

I've installed an extra 512mg DDR333 on my pc to give him a bit more time to live with me eheh and the problem is... I had 512 on it, 2 DIMMS of 256mg, what i did was put the 512 dimm on Slot 1, 256 slot 2 and 3.

Now the prob is that on Windows it only detects 512 ram and on Sisoftware on Motherboard option it really says that i have 1 dimm of 512 and 2 of 256...

I've updated the bios... it should work... i think.

Specs:

XP2100
Epox 8K3A (KT333)
512 DDR333
256 x 2 DDR3
G4Ti4600.

edit: here some picies.

Doom 3 Video Card Requirements

Zuntar — Thu, 29 Jul 2004 07:49:08 +0000

OUCH, check this out! :loco:

Doom 3 Video Card Requirements

Computer won't power up

Weedo — Wed, 28 Jul 2004 15:33:18 +0000

I had some extra parts laying around so I thought I'd get the few things I was missing and throw together a backup system for myself. Didn't want to spend a lot of money so I got this motherboard from Newegg. Threw it all together and it wouldn't power up. Zip, nada, nothing. RMA'd the sucker (motherboard). Same with the replacement. I tried all combinations of plugging in to the power header that made sense.

I guess my question is... assuming everything is hooked up right, what else can cause failure to power up.

Power supply: known to be good.
Memory: If it was bad it might not post but should at least power up.
Video card: brand new retail package, haven't got to try it yet.
Motherboard: It's a cheapie. I guess I could have gotten 2 bad ones.
CPU: could a bad cpu cause failure to power up? I'm pretty sure it's good though it's been laying around for a while.

http://www.newegg.com/app/ViewProductDesc.asp?description=13-185-010&depa=1

Gaming mouse

Zuntar — Thu, 08 Jul 2004 12:58:08 +0000

Gonna get a new mouse. I NEED a new mouse. I am incredibly used to a wheel mouse for surfing, but I also insist on having a middle button for gaming (running forward)! I have tried to use the wheel mouse button for gaming but couldn't get used to it.

Basicaly, what do you use? Any recomendations?

teaming psu's

Bud — Mon, 01 Dec 2003 07:11:57 +0000

is there a way to hook two power supplies so you can double wattage like to take 2 250 watt power supplies and connect them?

Which P4M processor?

DanG — Thu, 29 Jul 2004 10:59:40 +0000

Intel Pentium mobile 1.5GHz 1MB cache
or
Intel Pentium mobile 715(1.5GHz and 2MB cache, Dothan).

I remember someone bitching about the new Intel chips, but don't remember if that applied to the mobile chips as well, or if it was just the desktop ones.

Fortron Source PSU

Zuntar — Tue, 27 Jul 2004 07:30:48 +0000

Just wanted let anyone who cares know that I am VeRy happy with the Fortron Source 530W PSU that was recommended quite enthusiastically by Mackanz.

First thing out of the box I could tell it was a quality PSU, the case has a nice finish to it, the fans are clear with nice gold fan guards on them. The main power connection was sleeved & the Molex connectors are blue with "squeeze and pull tabs to help removal (sweetness).:)

There are two 80mm fans one in the front and one out the back both are very quiet. Most importantly though is that the voltage rails are rock solid, especially compared to my Antec true power PSU.

Another nice feature is that there are no "void warranty" stickers to prevent you from poppin the case open if you want to sleeve the rest of it or to change a fan out (say it you wanted an led fan in there). There are also pots all lined up and easily accessed that I think might allow you to tweak the voltage rails in case you wanted a little extra juice on whatever rail your modding.

Basicaly this PSU screams quality and value.

How NOT to defrag your drive

Tex — Fri, 23 Jul 2004 12:29:14 +0000

http://www.datadocktorn.nu/us_frag1.php

Before reading please gather some common household tools and other implements of destruction.

Remember if a screwdriver works good a power drill will only work better.

Tex

Here's one...

LawnMM — Wed, 28 Jul 2004 21:36:05 +0000

I read upping the agp voltage a bit can help stabilize a system when pushing for a higher OC? Sounds fishy, comments?

Help Requested - Virus related????

keto — Wed, 28 Jul 2004 17:44:07 +0000

This is from someone on the Fender Forums. I have no clue, your diagnosis would be appreciated.

"I get on internet explorer and try to connect and I immediately get page can't be displayed. I go to outlook express and it brings up the connect ok and gets my mail ok. I go back to explorer and try to go to different sites and I still get page can't be displayed. I try to open mcaffee and I get" apllication or dll c:windows\system32\d3d8.dll is not a valid windows image. I try a game and get the same response-diff .dll but it's not a valid image. I tried system restore, same thing. Is this another visus or what? Any help is appreciated. I'm using xp cause I had problems with "me". "

Temperature monitor for x800 pro??

Mohawk — Wed, 28 Jul 2004 17:33:55 +0000

does anyone know if there is one built in or if i can download one from anywhere??

Setup for me - possibley overclock

rioisk — Wed, 28 Jul 2004 17:08:52 +0000

Ok, I'm planning on buying some new stuff for my computer. I have a links and my ideas in here so please tell me what you think!

Ok, I was thinking of getting a new mobo soon anyways. This is my idea

http://www.zipzoomfly.com/jsp/ProductDetail.jsp?ProductCode=240311

sound good?

My current mobo is

http://www.intel.com/design/motherbd/bz/index.htm?iid=ipp_browse+motherbd_d875pbz&

Looks the same I know, but my current one is locked. This one seems to be able to adjust every expect plus (I don't know how useful it is) it has AI overclocking which I may give a try. I might boost my RAM a bit too....I got Kingston HyperX in there now with 2-3-2-6 CAS-2 atm (why I need to up the voltage of the new mobo to 2.6v instead of my current locked mobo's 2.5v which makes my RAM run at PC2700.

Anyways....I am going to replace 2 of my slots with 2 more 512's....(my current ones suck and have CAS 3....which really brings down my nice HyperX). So....would these be compatible or work right with HyperX (i'm sure they will....I just don't want to throw money around if it just won't)

http://www.zipzoomfly.com/jsp/ProductDetail.jsp?ProductCode=80082-1

Same 2-3-2-6 timings at the hyperX only 30 bucks cheaper which saves me 30 bucks hehe.

One more thing, on my new mobo, is everything on par or the same (or better) then my current mobo. Will it support a nvidia 6800 GT in optimal state. I see a couple differences when I compare them, so I could use some help from some people who could (and probabley do) know more then me on this stuff.

Also

I'm kind of worried a lil bit about this. I am getting a new case (my case sucks when it comes to cooling....it runs DANG hot)

http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=864722&Sku=MTX-YEL-600

It is a case with a 600 watt power supply. Both have rebate (and its yellow so it didn't sell and they trying to get rid of it I bet. I don't care for color)

I wanted to know if the 600 watt power supply in here is decent, or if there is a more reliable one in the 450-600 range that I might want to look at. Any ideas if case + power supply is decent/reliable?

Finally, I know everything varies from mobo to processor to RAM, but what would be a great timing for the 4 sticks of RAM if I choose to overclock?
(my processor is locked if that makes a difference)
I'll have 2 giges of RAM with recommended settings of 2-3-2-6.....what do you think would be the best voltage/settings I should use.....I'm guessing lower the better....but i'm not sure.

Ideas would be helpful thanks

PCI Express ready for prime time?

primesuspect — Mon, 19 Jul 2004 14:30:56 +0000

I have a customer with a big wallet, and he wants the very latest cutting edge in gaming hardware, and so he wants me to build a PCI-express based system. Are these even available yet? I keep seeing news about PCI Express GPUs, but nothing about mobos yet... Any info for me?

DDR memory question

yagga — Sat, 24 Jul 2004 01:05:02 +0000

I have a corsair 512mb cl2 stick and would like to buy another just like it. Will I be able to run it in the higher bandwidth channel together? I am wondering this because of two reasons. The first reason is they sell matched pairs and am wondering if there is anything special about them. I know Corsair says with 2 sticks it supposedly runs at 2.5 instead of 2 (thats all they say), well we will see, and I don't really mind at this point in time. The other reason is I thought I heard something that they make dual sided ram and some is single sided and that can cause running 2 sticks on the same line to not work. Maybe I am just being ancient here?

Basically, will I be able to run 2 unmatched standard 512mb cl sticks on the same channel to increase the bandwidth, or is it just going to act like another stick separate from the first?

I want to order today so quick responses are great, although I know you won't read this sentenced until its to late for you to know I was hoping for quickness. Thanx!!! :birthday:

Looking for input on new rig

RobbieGee — Mon, 26 Jul 2004 16:18:32 +0000

I'm going to upgrade my old computer sometime the next few days and have spent some time learning about the latest hardware again since it's been _a while_ since last time I refreshed my knowledge of HW. I've asked some friends relatively knowledgable in the field and got some positive feedback, but some more input can't possibly hurt ;-)

Anyways, before I submitted my order I'd like to hear if anyone has any objections to me buying the following parts (for whatever reason(s), please include them ;-)

MB: EPoX EP-8KDA3+ nForce3 Socket 754
CPU: AMD Athlon 64 2800+ 1.8GHz Socket 754, 512 KB cache
RAM: 2x DDR-DIMM PC3200 512MB CL2.5 184-P
FAN: Thermaltake Venus 12
HD: Seagate Barracuda 200GB HD
(+ a new mouse for my laptop: Targus Super Mini Retractable Mouse)

NOK 6180,- (~$824 i believe)

I believe the price is about the best I can get where I live, it's certainly not bad.

A friend adviced me to wait a bit for PCI-E, but I'm not _that_ interested and would (probably?) have to buy a new gfx card (got a Ti4200 128mb currently). Also, Doom3 is soon upon us ;-)

Aero Cool HT-101 ROCKS!

jrdwiz — Wed, 28 Jul 2004 01:03:34 +0000

This heat pipe is really nice, Keeps my CPU nice and cool. It's huge and the fan lies against one of my RAM modals. My Athlon XP 2800+ runs at 90F Idle and at 115F-120F while playing FarCry.... Some Pics Below

PROS
- In my opinion it’s very quiet
- Cool Looking :jelly:
- Great Cooling

CONS
- Can be to big for some smaller cases
- Expensive
- Needs to be lapped

How to attach an enormous HSF to a NB/GPU

Geeky1 — Wed, 22 Oct 2003 03:25:15 +0000

Ok, I've mentioned this to a few people, so I figured that I'd post a thread on how to attach a heatsink large enough to get an Approved-By-Mongo stamp to your northbridge and your video card, using the stock mounting holes. I used one method on the northbridge, and another on the GPU. Either one can be used for mounting a heatsink to either chip, it just depends on the size of the heatsink you want to mount.

// LEGAL DISCLAIMER //

Neither I, nor Short-Media will be held responsible in any way should you damage your computer by following this guide. Any modifications made to your hardware can void your warranty, and could possibly damage the hardware.

// END DISCLAIMER //

Let's start with the northbridge.

The heatsink is a Coolermaster" rel="nofollow">http://www.newegg.com/app/viewproduct.asp?DEPA=1&submit=Go&description=DP5-5G11A">Coolermaster DP5-5G11A 50mm square unit that's rated for "Intel PIII CuMine up to 1.0 GHz P III Tualatin up to 1.5 GHz PIII Celeron up to 850 MHz and higher AMD Athlon up to 900 MHz Duron up to 900 MHz K6-2/3 up to 600 MHz". This heatsink is perfectly sized for a northbridge cooler, as it's got a small enough profile that you can use giant CPU HSFs (like the SLK-900A in the picture) with huge fans (a 92x25mm in my case) without clearance issues. I was originally going to use a 60mm square AMD retail HSF, but it was too big to work with the SLK-900A.

The drawback with this heatsink is that it has two little lips on the base, which you can see in newegg's" rel="nofollow">http://www.newegg.com/app/viewproduct.asp?DEPA=1&submit=Go&description=DP5-5G11A">newegg's pictures of it (didn't want to use huge amounts of their bandwidth with remote linking...). Those will have to be removed to mount it on the chip. 120 grit sandpaper works well for this. I suggest that you lap the base, as mine was way out of whack, and I suspect that given that it's a cheap aluminum extrusion, that they're probably all like that.

Anyhow, you can see my mounting system in this pic, which consists of a piece of steel that I cut to fit the slot left by the standard clip, and which has holes drilled in it to allow a bolt to pass through it.

In the above pic, you can see the underside of the board, and the rest of my mounting system.

And this pic shows the clip that I made, and how it's mounted in the heatsink. It's simply held in place by the clamping force of the nuts pulling the heatsink down onto the northbridge, and it's in the same channel left by the standard clip. Also note that the reason it has the splotchy appearance that it does is because it is starting to rust. Since I used uncoated steel, it's got a bit of surface rust on it. I'm not going to worry about it, since it's not a big deal. But, if if bugs you, either use stainless steel, or paint the clip. Don't use aluminum, as it's not springy enough. The piece of steel i used is ~ 1/16" thick, and that's thick enough that it has basically zero give when bolted on, which is a good thing in this case because it allows me to clamp the heatsink down firmly. Just be sure not to over-tighten the heatsink, or you'll probably break something.

Parts list for northbridge heatsink:
1x Coolermaster DP5-5G11A heatsink, lapped
1x Top Motor/Dynaeon DF1205BH 20cfm 50x20mm fan (optional)
2x 1" 6/32 phillips head zinc plated machine screws (6 if you go for the optional fan)
1x Steel or stainless steel plate, ~1/16" thick, and at least 1/4" wide x 3" long (that's a bit longer than necessary, but not much)
2x 6/32 size nuts
2x 6/32 size metal washers
2x large neoprene rubber washers (for insulation). Make sure that the hole in the washer is not big enough to allow the metal washer to pass through it, otherwise you'll short something out.
2x small neoprene rubber washers, trimmed to fit to insulate the top side of the board (these aren't necessary, and I just used them as a precaution. They don't actually do anything, but they go on the screw before the heatsink does, so that they contact the board)

Assembly:
1. Lap the heatsink. Start with 120 grit to remove the lips, and make it flat. Once it's flat, jump to 220. Carry this through 400, 600, and 1000. You can go to 2000 if you like, but it's unnecessary. If you don't know how to lap a heatsink, ask and someone here will help you out. One thing I will say: DO NOT, DO NOT, DO NOT apply any kind of wax or polish to that heatsink after it's been lapped. I know you want that mirror finish. You know what? Would you rather have a mirror finish, or a high-performance cooling system? Polish and wax fill in the microscopic pores in the metal, and interfere with heat transfer. DO NOT use them, period.

2. Measure the steel to cut the clip. DO NOT cut anything yet.

3. Mark the places to drill the holes in the clip for the bolts to pass through. The easiest way to do this is to place the old northbridge cooler on the sheet, and use it as a template to mark the holes.

4. Drill the holes for the machine screws. You'll want to use a bit that's just slightly larger than the diameter of the screw.

5. NOW you can cut the clip. Depending on the size of the sheet you got, this may involve just trimming the ends, or actually cutting it out with a dremel or a hacksaw.

6. Deburr the edges of the clip with a file/sandpaper to remove any sharp edges. Chamfer the edges of the bolt holes by placing a larger bit on the hole, and turning it a few times by hand. Your goal in doing this is just to remove the metal burrs from the hole, not make the hole bigger, so you don't want to use a drill to do this, and you don't need to press down on the bit super super hard, either.

7. Check the clip to make sure it fits the heatsink.

8. Clean any old thermal compound off the northbridge, and replace it with new stuff.

9. Assemble the thing... Turn the board over, so the back is facing you. Put down the two large rubber washers first, followed by a metal washer on top of each of the rubber ones. Drop a bolt through each hole. Hold the bolts in place with one hand, and flip the board over so it's right side up. Now you can put the two small rubber washers on, if you want to. Then put the heatsink on, put the clip over the bolts, and bolt it down. tighten it down so it's finger tight at first, gradually tightening down one side and then the other, so as not to put uneven pressure on the chip. If it's still a bit loose, grab a wrench and a screwdriver, and tighten down each side a bit. Check to see if it's still loose. If it is, repeat this last step as necessary, being careful not to over-tighten it. If you can't pull the heatsink up any measurable amount, it's tight enough.

10. You're done, unless you want to use the higher speed fan. In this case, just use the 4 extra 6/32 screws to screw it down; since the fan holder is plastic, having screws that are tapped correctly is not important, as the screws you use will simply tap their own holes as you tighten them down.

need advice on external hd's

hillary-s-bane — Mon, 19 Jul 2004 12:35:57 +0000

hey guys, my boss asked me to find a solution to our backup methods. i work at a small engineering firm and we backup cad drawings every 2 weeks or so by burning them to cd. (it sucks! i spend at least a day and a half on it) I was thinking of getting them the WD 250GB (Model WDXF2500JBRNN) external hd. any tips, do's-or-don'ts would be appreciated.

Need help with a P3 mobo

Medlock — Mon, 26 Jul 2004 12:19:33 +0000

My dad picked up an old computer from a goodwill near his job. He says it used to be from some insurance company or something. Well, he wants to give this computer to my brother, so he can play his games on it, instead of my parents' computer. Even he knows it will need some upgrading.

We need some new ram for it. PC133. I think he's got that covered.

Right now it's got a 866 MHz PIII in it, but we want to make it faster. I found out a little bit about this board. It has the Intel 82815 chipset, so it has an AGP port on it, not bad. I think I can get a R8500 in it. What we don't know about it, is what kind of processor we can throw in this machine. Intel's webstie didn't specify. It only said 66/100/133MHz fsb P3. Something like that.

Can you help? What's the fastest processor we can slap in this mobo? What would you recommend?? Thanks!

-Rick

PS. In the meantime, I could always add this machine to my mini folding farm!

psu FAN MONITOR WIRE ?? Asus P4P800

BruceY — Sun, 25 Jul 2004 22:41:15 +0000

Antec Sonata case with a ASUS P4P800E-Delux mobo where do I hook the blue connector labled "psu fan monitor" up to on the mobo?

ALSO IF I hook the serial ata hard drive to SATA1, can I hook the dvd and cdrw to IDE 1 then?

Yeah me

kryyst — Tue, 27 Jul 2004 07:58:04 +0000

So just modded my xbox. I hooked it up with the Xecuter 2.3b sodderless mod chip. The installation went pretty smooth, though I have a version 1.0 xbox so I had to remove the solder on the board to get the mod chip to sit right. The whole proccess probably took about 30-45 mins to get it nice and secure.

Next I flashed it with the Xecuter 2 bios and installed Evolution X dashboard with the xbox media player it's very sweet indeed. Next on the list is to get Mame running on it. It's slick all networked up with my computer and I can stream video and audio from my computer to my xbox and onto my TV. I was thinking of putting in a bigger Hard Drive, but my funds were limited so I got a DVD burner instead since I can get a little more use out of it for some things I do at work anyway.

All in all the project was pretty easy and has just given me a whole slew of versitility to my xbox.

Help Athlon 64bit

Cock-with-a-sock — Tue, 27 Apr 2004 12:27:40 +0000

My mates using a athlon 64bit 3000 with a KV*-MAX3 motherboard he finnaly got i working after ram issues but now the bios is reading 80 degress c but when you touch the heatsink it is cold any ideas anyone

A64 temperature

deicist — Wed, 09 Jun 2004 06:42:49 +0000

Hi guys, just wondering if any of you A64 owners could tell me what sort of temperature they generally run at? I've just splashed out on a new cooler (the coolermaster heatpipe jobby) but my CPU still runs at around 60 idle / 67 load. Is that right? If not I think the main problem is that the way the cooler is orientated on my motherboard (an MSI NEO) the fan points straight down at the graphics card, so the only air going onto the processor is the hot air coming off the video card... don't know what I can do about that, except maybe chop a hole in the side of the case and use a fan to suck cool air straight onto the processor.... that's a bit drastic though, so any other suggestions would be welcome.

Trying to modify BIOS with Modbin

randalla — Mon, 26 Jul 2004 12:42:03 +0000

I have an ECS KT600-A motherboard and I've been trying to modify the bios to display the CPU and memory voltage adjustments.

They show as hidden in Modbin and I changed them to Display but when I flash the BIOS they don't show. Other changes that I made show, so I'm flashing the correct bios and it is taking some changes from Modbin. But I can't seem to get them to show the voltage adjustments.

Is there anything else I need to do? I'm new at this and just want it to see if it's possible to do it.

Got my new board from Epox, that didn't fix it!

pseudonym — Mon, 26 Jul 2004 00:02:35 +0000

I recently sent out my Epox 8RDA+ board for busted caps. Got it back a few days ago and finally got to working on it today. Reinstalled everything booted it up and it was a no go. It pauses on boot code 26 (OCing code, clearning CMOS does nothing) and gives a long beep, then continues and gets to code 7F whose explanation makes no sense at all-

7F- Switch back to text mode if full screen is not supported.
-If error occurs, report errors and wait for keys.
-If no error occurs or F1 key is pressed to continue.
-Clear EPA logo.....

WTF is that? Anyways, I yanked it all out of the case and hooked it up sitting on the box with minimal hardware, and it still does it. If I hit F1 it goes to FF but I have nothing on the screen. I can hit Ctrl-Alt-Del and reboot it, but it still gets nothing, and I can hit del alone and it seems like it was going into the bios, but still nothing on the screen. I can try and clear the cmos, but if I let it sit clearning the cmos, it sets off the temp siren (is that normal?) and it still doesn't get it to work correctly. I got it to boot once and got the bios, then let it start to boot into windows but then I shut it off to hook the DVD and FD back up. After that I wasn't able to repeat the boot with any hardware combination.

I'm out of ideas now so I was hoping to get some from you guys. I'm starting to wonder what got hurt when the caps went so that means it could be a mem problem, HD problem, vid problem or processor problem. So far I haven't been able to rule any of those because I can't take down my main rig for a few days.

NF7-S 2.0 Memory weirdness

primesuspect — Mon, 26 Jul 2004 11:08:57 +0000

Maybe I'm just a n00b, but here's the situation:

I have Corsair TwinX XMS3200 in dual channel (512mb total)

I have an NF7-S 2.0 Bios 23

I have a mobile barton 2600+ , currently at 210x11 (2300mhz). Temps are perfectly fine.

I have memtest+ 1.15

__

okay, on to the weirdness.

If i set my timings to something like 2/2/2/11, I get thousands of errors on test #3 (8 bit pattern test). If i tell the mobo to use SPD, I get 3/4/4/9, and I can go through the whole suite with no errors, BUT ONLY SOMETIMES. For example, I let it run for an hour. I got 2 passes with no errors, but then on test 5, I got a mere 2 errors. Then it will go for 3 more passes, but on the seventh pass, it'll error again, at a different address. It's always random.

I had an additional stick of ram in there, cause I wanted more than 512mb of ram. I was using a stick of Buffalo PC3200. I think it wasn't perfectly compatible with the corsair, cause I would get errors no matter what. If I run that stick alone, no errors.

I'm not familiar with voltages. Should I be cranking up the ram voltage or something? I know that the recommended timings are 2/2/2/11 but I just can't run it without errors at those speeds.

Help me short-media! :ukflag: :Canflag:

Your Amish Daddy=Disk dumbfounded.

Your-Amish-Daddy — Mon, 26 Jul 2004 15:55:16 +0000

Well, About a week ago I got my new rig. I got a Hitachi 7ksomething 160gb drive. I was wondering, does windows 2000 only read drives under 127GB(Since that's what it says I have..) Or did I mismatch one of the jumpers?

Nagging Biostar M7VKQ Pro Problem

KingFish — Sun, 20 Jun 2004 22:43:47 +0000

I have enough parts to make two more farm nodes but I have a problem with my hard drives. I have about seven hard drives, all of them about 2 or so gigs and three different Biostar motherboards, all the same model as in the title. I have two different amd procs and two different sticks of pc2100 ram. The problem is that when I go to install win xp, it'll get to the part of the install where it goes to format the ntfs partition. Sometimes it'll get to 2%, sometimes 5%, sometimes nowhere at all before it just doesn't format anymore. It stays stuck and doesn't progress any further. If I choose to bypass the standard format for the quick format, errors occur later in the install that state file X wasn't able to be copied to the hard drive. All three motherboards behave the same way. I've tried using 40 pin cables, 80 pin cables, putting heatsinks on every chip on one board, etc. I know the hard drives are working fine. The firmware is read just fine and all of them behave in a similar fashion. Anyone have any ideas on this? The bios's were already the most recent release and were all the latest revisions to the board that were released. Anyone have ideas on this? I'm fresh out at this point and I have two aussies to try to fend off before I become jihad roadkill. Thanks in advance, you are all the greatest.

KingFish

pentium 1 mobos

master-af — Mon, 26 Jul 2004 10:12:19 +0000

hi, i got 2 systems: pentium133 and pentium166mmx.
im gona use them 2 ,to make one faster... as i need it to play at work
but ferst i have to know wich mobo is faster, so i can bay faster CPU, (probebly pentium 2...)
help me with this 2 mobos, this is the N,S briges spec... :
MOBO 1:
N: pciset
SB82437vx
L6474099
SU116
intel 95

S: pciset
SB82371SB
L6464228
SU093
intel 95

MOBO 2:
N: pciset
SB82437vx
SU116
intel 95

S: pciset
SB82371SB
87350325
SU093
intel 95

if you know ware i can find manuals... (jumpers seting)
thenx.

WD800JB Western Digital SE

csimon — Sun, 25 Jul 2004 13:01:13 +0000

I plugged in this drive set to cable select just as the main drive is but when I get into windows disk manager it doesnt allow me access to format it or partition or anything. What am I missing ...is there some type of utility I need to run on here first?

I'm sure glad my raptor didnt give me this trouble.