DELL P1110 monitor too bright

slipkidslipkid Member
edited December 2011 in Hardware
a friend of mine just gave me his old DELL P1110 21 inch flat screen monitor

when trying to use it though, i see that it has a MAJOR problem with being WAYYYY to bright :-(

i've tried adjusting the brightness & contrast settings to no avail

even with the brightness set all the way down to 0, it's terrible

the problem has nothing to do with windoze or the driver being used in windoze, the problem is immediately apparent even without plugging the monitor into my PC, you can see it in the bootup phase where the memory countsup on what is *normall* a black background

on this monitor though, what SHOULD be a black background is all washed out gray, like if you turn the brightness control up on your TV all the way - which only carries over & skews everything once you get into windows (blacks are not true blacks, light backgrounds blaze into my eyeballs like staring ito the sun, etc)

i am researching this now on the 'net, trying to find out if there is any way to adjust this, and i am learning that possibly:

(1) all flat screen displays (like this one) are "too bright" (?)

(2) some monitors have "hidden" controls to turn this down via screws inside the cases that you have to know where they are what to adjust (haven't found the info i need for this one yet)

(3) some workarounds involve replacing resistors in the unit (??)


does anyone have any clues they can give me how to fix this problem on the dell p1110??? it's a really nice unit except for the overly bright display

any responses greatly appreciated, THANKS!!!!!!


***********EDIT/UPDATE 1/28/06*************

PLEASE NOTE FOR FOLKS NEW TO THIS THREAD:

This thread gets quite long & you need to read the WHOLE THING to see the various solutions and twists and turns. And there ARE SOLUTIONS! Just be sure to read it all b4 you decide how to handle your own monitor problem.

User P991DELLSONY has graciously posted one solution which many have found to be helpful, but it comes up several pages deep into this thread. You can read the discussion of his solution further on, or also, thanks to P991, try this webpage to cut to the chase:
http://www.geocities.com/gregua/windas/

THANKS TO ALL FOR THEIR HELP & INPUT WITH THIS PROBLEM, WHICH AS IT TURNS OUT, AFFLICTS MANY MANY OF THESE MONITORS.
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Comments

  • KometeKomete Member
    edited September 2004
    Hi there, I have no fix for you but at my work we have 320 dell 21 inch or 20 inch flat screens and every monitors brightness and color are different. Some have a faded look others have rich dark look. I have messed with about 20 or so of them trying see if I could tweek them to be the same and it is a no go. They came with a 3 year warrenty. I would try seeing if you can send it back in and get a replacement. You might get lucky and get one that hits 6500k perfectly. RIght now I'm stuck on an overbright faded one. I'll probably be trading it out with a coworkers when they are not looking lmao or ask for a swap.
  • slipkidslipkid Member
    edited September 2004
    Komete wrote:
    Hi there, I have no fix for you but at my work we have 320 dell 21 inch or 20 inch flat screens and every monitors brightness and color are different. Some have a faded look others have rich dark look. I have messed with about 20 or so of them trying see if I could tweek them to be the same and it is a no go. They came with a 3 year warrenty. I would try seeing if you can send it back in and get a replacement. You might get lucky and get one that hits 6500k perfectly. RIght now I'm stuck on an overbright faded one. I'll probably be trading it out with a coworkers when they are not looking lmao or ask for a swap.

    thanks for the response!

    what you describe (having an "overbright faded one") is EXACTLY what this thing looks like

    i will ask my friend if he's had it less than 3 years - maybe he can return it for me but i doubt he will want to be bothered

    how'd you like to exchange this one in your office for a good one for me? (just kidding)

    thanks again for the info though
  • KometeKomete Member
    edited September 2004
    slipkid wrote:
    thanks for the response!


    how'd you like to exchange this one in your office for a good one for me? (just kidding)

    thanks again for the info though

    Haha.. I work for the State of Louisiana.. I would be taken a trip down river

    I hope you are able to send it back becouse the ones that are true 6500k are so rich in color.
  • slipkidslipkid Member
    edited September 2004
    NEWFLASH!!!!

    i posted about this on several forums including this one & i now have the exact info needed to correct this

    *******
    http://www.hutzelman.com/web/pages/hardware/Mods/SonyCRT/
    Sony Monitor Brightness Fix
    Many Sony Trinitron-based monitors manufactured around the 1999-2000 time frame develop a brightness problem over time which substantially degrades the picture quality. Some models which exhibit this problem are the Sony G500 and the Dell P1110. The following "fix" has helped me and many others get the brightness and color back to near factory specs. The main signs that you have this problem will be the absence of a good black level - even with the brightness set to 0, the monitor will show blacks as bright greys. [Disclaimer: this "fix" is not really the correct way to fix the problem, but the results should be quite satisfactory.]
    ********

    rest of the link goes on to explain what to do - it involves opening the CRT case, disabling an existing resistor, and soldering in a new/different one

    not exactly an easy task for people not familiar with electronics/soldering, and also poses certain risks, but i am going to try it

    not as easy as swapping it out with a co-worker but worth a shot!

    wish me luck & thanks again
  • ThraxThrax 🐌 Austin, TX Icrontian
    edited September 2004
    Heh. I use 58 brightness, 100 contrast, and 11k colour on my P1110.
  • edited September 2004
    I'm at 88 Contrast, 17 Brightness on my P1100. I Try turning down the brightness to 0, and things get too blue (6500K color temp, btw). I may try this one of these days, when I decide to rip open my baby and tinker around with her innards.

    P.S.: "Colour", Thrax? What the hell are they teaching you over there at EMU?
  • EnverexEnverex Worcester, UK Icrontian
    edited September 2004
    Mine is set up as follows:

    Colour : Expert
    50, 50, 50, 85, 87, 95

    Brightness: 35
    Contrast : 85
  • slipkidslipkid Member
    edited September 2004
    hopefully someday my monitor will be working almost the way it should (if i do the resistor mod) so i can set the brightness to the 50s! as it is now (at 0) it is ridiculously bright and unusable IMO

    also, i've read some other things about this monitor at these links that may be of interest to others here:

    http://www.adrian-smith31.clara.co.uk/pctips/monitor_tips.htm
    http://www.anatekcorp.com/faq/archmntr.htm

    something called a "software sony DAS alignment" may correct the problem as well

    i haven't been able to find out yet exactly what a sony DAS alignment is though, how to get the software, how it works, or who can do it for you (? sony technician?)
  • edited September 2004
    You could always go to a Sony outlet and ask them about the software. I might do that myself on Tuesday, actually. I'll post what they say, and if I could get a copy of this software, you can bet I'll host it and post a link to it here.

    As for opening it up and playing with the resistance of the G2 regulator, I kinda want to, and a kinda don't. Not that I dont think of myself as proficent enough to work inside of it (it used to be my job) but, I just dont want to risk it as it's totally usable for now at a really low brightness setting of 17.
  • SimGuySimGuy Ottawa, Canada
    edited September 2004
    20 Brightness & 50 Contrast.
    11K Colour Temp. 50-50-50-85-80-95

    Catalyst Control Centre Color Correction:
    -> Gamma: 1.0
    -> Brightness: 0
    -> Contrast: 100
    -> Straight Color Correction Curve

    Sony's DAS: Digital Alignment Software, which can calibrate the internal programming of any Sony-based monitor.

    If you manage to get a hold of the DAS, you'll need the following Sony parts to get it to work (all are Sony Part Numbers):

    Adapter Cable: 1-690-391-21
    Interface Unit: A-1500-819-A
    Connector Attachment: 3-702-691-01
  • edited September 2004
    If you manage to get a hold of the DAS, you'll need the following Sony parts to get it to work (all are Sony Part Numbers):

    Really? Where do these cables/connectors connect to?
  • SimGuySimGuy Ottawa, Canada
    edited September 2004
    No idea really. Just found the info on one of the links above:
    QUESTION NO. P1031-4: Sony CPD200GS monitor. Is it possible to reset when the firmware appears to be corrupted?

    To re-set adjustments to factory settings, hold the Reset button (second from left) in for over two seconds. A self-test can also be done, by powering on with the video cable disconnected, and pushing the right-arrow button for over two seconds. Four color bars should then appear, to indicate the self-test has been passed. To change the internal programming, you must use Sony DAS service software, which is run on a PC with an interface consisting of adaptor cable, Sony p/n#1-690-391-21; Interface Unit, Sony p/n# A-1500-819-A; and connector attachment, Sony p/n# 3-702-691-01.
  • slipkidslipkid Member
    edited September 2004
    TheSmJ wrote:
    Really? Where do these cables/connectors connect to?

    regarding the DAS software (& thanks for posting the extra info!), i spoke (email) to one of the guys who made mention of the DAS software on his webpage, and asked him what it was, how to get it etc

    and he said this:
    "The Sony DAS software is only available to Sony authorised service centres
    and is not available anywhere on the Internet as far as I know. Even if you
    did get the software, there is a hardware interface between the PC and the
    monitor that converts the serial port data into the I2C bus data the monitor
    uses. The software uses 'plugins' - one for each monitor model."

    so the parts that you guys listed above must be a serial cable to hookup to the PC's 9 pin serial interface, which goes into a converter unit of some kind and also a seperate "VGA" type connector piece to plug into the monitor (educated guess)

    any sony techs out there that can confirm all this for us?

    and better yet, any of ya make free house-calls!?!?!?


    ALSO, the same guy told me this in email as far as replacing the resistor:
    "The easiest thing to do is make sure there are no component faults (faulty
    surface mount capacitors are a real problem in this chassis) then if needed,
    substitute R459 for a lower value. Check the CRT voltages to make sure the
    G2 is actually too high before doing this though - it should be around 512V."

    so, if i understand him correctly, the resistor "fix" won't help if there is a problem with faulty "surface mount capacitors" which is a COMMON problem!!!

    also, the "G2" voltage should be checked to make sure it is around 512V...sigh....i'm not an electronic technician, don't know what/where the "G2" is, or how to safely check that.....

    i may still try the resistor "fix" anyway, provided i can find any that meet the proper "specs" (4.7Mohms to 6.8 Mohms, capable of handling at least 1kV and 0.5Watts)
  • edited September 2004
    Check www.jameco.com for the resistors. Prices are a hell of a lot less than Radio Shack.
  • NavyElectroTechNavyElectroTech Virginia Beach, VA
    edited September 2004
    Well, I just did the Resistor mod on two monitors at work. Awesome results... and to think we almost threw them away. I used a 5.4 M-ohm resistor, and here are the settings I found best:

    Expert Setup, at RGB Settings
    90
    92
    63
    94
    80
    100

    Brightness 52, Contrast 95

    Note: Each monitor will require different settings due to the difference in the resistance of the added component. No two resistors are perfectly alike, but that's a starting point. If anyone else has a question on how to do it, let me know.
  • GobblesGobbles Ventura California
    edited September 2004
    as a tech I just gotta warn you that you need to be very very carefull when working in a monitor especally if it is live and the voltages/amps used in there are enough to kill you...
  • edcentricedcentric near Milwaukee, Wisconsin Icrontian
    edited September 2004
    I don't need to warn any of you guys that have been posting here, but if someone else comes across this thread...
    You had better know what in the hell you are doing when you open a monitor up.
    They don't call the high voltage section high for nothing.
    A misplaced tool or finger and you will be blown into next week.
    OK, I am slow to post.
  • NavyElectroTechNavyElectroTech Virginia Beach, VA
    edited September 2004
    edcentric wrote:
    I don't need to warn any of you guys that have been posting here, but if someone else comes across this thread...
    You had better know what in the hell you are doing when you open a monitor up.
    They don't call the high voltage section high for nothing.
    A misplaced tool or finger and you will be blown into next week.
    OK, I am slow to post.

    I should have posted that!!! I've been hit with the 20Kv On the back of a monitor before... It's not nice. I was thrown about 5 feet into a wall, and the burns took forever to heal :) Of course this happened when I was 12 years old, so lessons learned..... If you are doing the resistor mod, it's not that dangerous, as the card the resistor is on is pretty far away from the flyback area, but still be very careful. It's best to leave the monitor unplugged for 10-15 minutes before opening. As long as the monitor is functioning properly, that should be enough time for all the HV components to discharge.
  • edited September 2004
    Well, I just did the Resistor mod on two monitors at work. Awesome results... and to think we almost threw them away. I used a 5.4 M-ohm resistor, and here are the settings I found best:

    Expert Setup, at RGB Settings
    90
    92
    63
    94
    80
    100

    Brightness 52, Contrast 95

    Note: Each monitor will require different settings due to the difference in the resistance of the added component. No two resistors are perfectly alike, but that's a starting point. If anyone else has a question on how to do it, let me know.


    Sweet! Where'd you get the resistors from, and how much did they cost you? I might try replacing the resistor this weekend if I have the time.
  • NavyElectroTechNavyElectroTech Virginia Beach, VA
    edited September 2004
    Well, I got them from my stock.... But you can get them from Radio shack for under 2 bucks.... (They may have to order them)
    OR
    Get one here:
    http://www.newark.com/NewarkWebCommerce/newark/en_US/endecaSearch/partDetail.jsp?SKU=25H9823&N=0

    That one is like 5 bucks.

    Take Care,

    Adam :usflag:
  • edited September 2004
    I fixed this problem on my P1110 last night in 2 minutes with NO need for hardware modifications or expensive Sony software. This may not work for all P1110's, but it sure cured the "too bright" problem for me.

    - Turn off monitor.

    - Hold down the center front panel "set" button. While holding this button down, swich on monitor. Continue holding the "set" button for 4 seconds, release and immediately push again.

    - A password prompt will appear on screen. Enter "7711" using the monitor front panel set and arrow keys.

    - A service mode screen will come up.

    - Maneuver to the "Gray Scale" menu.

    - Set "Brightness" to 50% and "Contrast" to 90% (these are the same controls as the normal menu).

    - Adjust the "G2" setting down to the optimal brightness. This setting controls the feedback loop for all three R-G-B electron guns in the CRT. I set mine to a value of 125, but your optimal value may differ.

    - Turn monitor off and on to exit service mode.

    - Fine tune brightness and contrast with normal controls.

    -That's it!

    - WARNING: Don't reset the memory to default or play with any other controls without recording values. You could easily render the monitor useless or make the display unreadable which would make it impossible to change the parameters back to a readable state.
  • edited September 2004
    I don't get any sort of password prompt on mine. :( But mine is a P1100.

    When you say you need to wait four seconds after powering the monitor on, do you mean 4 seconds from when the green light turns on, or 4 seconds after the tube turns on?
  • EnverexEnverex Worcester, UK Icrontian
    edited September 2004
    I don't get anything either....
  • edited September 2004
    Hold the "select" (center) button 4 seconds after turning on the power. Release the set button and immediately push again, momentarily. The password prompt screen should come on.

    This may not work for a P1100, but it did for my P1110 (the subject of this thread).

    Good luck!
  • edited September 2004
    I believe you must be providing video drive to the monitor before it will enter the service mode.

    I have read you must be driving it at 79.976K/75Hz for this to work properly.
  • edited September 2004
    I changed the refresh rate to 75Hz and tried again. Still nothing.
  • KINGPINKINGPIN PAKISTAN
    edited September 2004
    There Are Two Ways To Control It
    1- Go To The Gamma Setting Of Video Card And Make It Less Bright.
    2- If Your Video Card Is O.k And Problem Is In The Monitor , Open It Find It's Flyback Transformer Which Can Be Spotted By The Lead Emerging From It To The Top Of Crt. There R Three Variables Two Control Focus And One Brightness, Adjust By It.
  • slipkidslipkid Member
    edited October 2004
    TheSmJ wrote:
    Sweet! Where'd you get the resistors from, and how much did they cost you? I might try replacing the resistor this weekend if I have the time.


    i spent about 3-4 weeks trying to find these damn things & finally got some last week at this link:

    http://www.alliedelec.com/
    4.7MOHM 1/2 watt
    6.2M OHM 1/2 watt

    they were only something like 2 cents a piece, but i had to buy them in packs of 200!!!!


    i have not tried them yet (the advice i read said to try the 4.7M first, then if that doesn't work to try the 6.2M)

    wish me luck...
  • edited October 2004
    Well I performed this resister mod on my P1100 last week, and I can say the results are great!

    As some of you already know, prior to the mod my monitor had a rather strange problem where (weather or not the monitor was in use, or stand by) a big, blue spark would jump across the inside of the tube, along witha loud "bang" coming from it. When it started, it only did it every couple of days, then every day, and by the time I finally got serious about fixing it, it was doing it every 15 minutes!

    Once I opened up the monitor, I found something strange; Merkortech had apparently already done it! Where the 10MOHM resister was, a 3.2 and 6.2 were in it's place, covered in silicon glue. I removed the 3.2, and re-added the 6.2.

    It's been over a week since I modded it, and I haven't seen the monitor arc since!
  • slipkidslipkid Member
    edited October 2004
    i also did the modification - i put in the 6.2 & it looks 10,000% better

    MUCH darker than it used to

    black actually looks black instead of light gray

    it was very EZ to do also

    i'm using the monitor now where b4 i was unable to because it was so effin' bright

    - jon -
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