If geeks love it, we’re on it
You found the friendliest gaming & tech geeks around. Say hello!
Fourf said:I have been following this thread for awhile now as my old Dell p992 was a great monitor til it was replaced with a wide screen flat panel, and once it was moved out of my office for video games it started to have a greenish tint, became way too bright and and had 1/2 dozen curving horizontal trace lines visible on screen. Got a cable off ebay and Windas to work and communicate with the P992, but for the life of me, and this may sound silly but I cant figure out how to get any text programs to wordwarp the dat file properly to make sense of the data. How do you know at what place to wrap the file so the column headers make sense? simple trial and error? sometimes I can get a few columns to line up, and the rest is spiraled off into swirls of numbers!!! I am afraid to edit any values as I am not sure I am in the right column. Im sure it is something simple I am missing, or a process to follow that I am unaware of...can anyone help? Thanks!
Fourf said:U busy? I got a P992 that has totally different fields than your example and I cannot get the .dat file to wordwrap properly to make sense enough with the columns to edit anything... Any ideas?
Fourf said:Awesome!!! It appears that I have one of the varying field length setups -- as I couldnt make heads or tails of the data with any level of confidence ...normally I am pretty bold when it comes to giant paper weights, as the monitor was nearly unusable -- but it seemed like people here were having alot of success so I thought caution might be the better part of valor here... using your relational idea above I did a search for the first value in the set that contained a known G2 value until it matched the second value. Dropped the stored value from 186 to 150 and then to a 100 .... Presto!! Brand new monitor. I can now turn the brightness down and the contrast up on the monitor for full rich colors! Seeing all the other values present -- is there a resource book or something that details what all the settings are for and what they affect? Thanks again!
kunj said:HOW TO MAKE A ESC CABLE USING A BREADBOARD(Picture)EQUIPMENTMax 232 chipSerial cable (I used a Db9)Wires (I cut up a USB header to get the .001 4 pin connector to connect to the monitor. A floppy power cord is equally as good.)5 1 uf capacitors (ceramic 104M)Prepare the Serial CableThere are many ways to connect a serial cable to the breadboard, I found the easiest was to solder wires to the male pins. I found that cutting the cable for the wires was pointless as I couldn’t match the colours up with the pins as I only had a moulded cable.. Another way is to just stick the wires into a the female connector i(if you have a female to female cord) or stick them into the serial port of the computer.To connect the serial cable to the breadboard you will be using pins 2 (tx), 3 (rx) 5 (grd). (if you are using a db25 cable then pin 2=rx 3=tx and 7=grd ) But before you do this you must close the circuit by connecting pins 4 (dtr) 6 (dsr) 8 (cts) together, (db25 pins 20, 6, 5). I managed to run some solder over each pin. Or use a female to female cord and just stick wires into each.(Picture)PIN CONNECTOR2 TX3 RX5 GROUND FUSE PINS 4 6 8 ECS (TTL) to Breadboard For this I cut up a USB header (cost 5 dollars) for the connection to the monitor. Or you can use a spare Floppy drive power cord, or stick the wires into the monitor with blue tack.CONNECTING THE CIRCUIT(Picture)You can use the numbers on the breadboard to help you to connect the circuitInsert the max 232 chip into the top of the board with the small dot on the chip (pin 1) in D1 and pin 16 in F1.Insert The Capacitors.CAP1 D1……..D3CAP2 D2……..G1CAP3 D4……..D5CAP4 D6……..G2CAP5 BLUE 1…RED 1 ( FURTHER MOST FIGHT ROW IN THE ELECTRICAL SEGMENT OF THE BOARD)INSERT THE WIRES (DB9)SERIAL CABLE BB LOCATION NEXT TO PIN ON CHIPPIN2 (TX)…….… D7 7=TX =T2OUTPIN3 (RX)………… D8 8=RX=R2INPIN5 (GRD)....... BLUE 4FROM THE MONITOR ECS, TTL TO BREADBOARDWIRE BB LOCATION NEXT TO PIN ON CHIP1=GROUND BLUE12=5+ RED13=RX G7 9=RX=R2OUT4=TX G8 10=TX=T2INLINK THE CIRCUIT CONNECT THE BRIDGING WIRES TO THE BREADBOARDWIRE BB LOCATION1 H1….....RED32 H2…….G43 H4…….I104 G6…….H105 J10…...BLUE3That’s it you're all finished…. Secure the serial and the ttl parts with some tape and connect to your computer and monitor.
ProPeace said:Hi to all from west french coast ! :cool:(And sorry for my bad English writing...)Because they have the brightness problem, I was very happy when I found your topic and other website giving a solution to my 2x Dell P1110 my father took at his work, to give me.:tongue:I have read a lot of things, and tried some, but nothing work... :(I did not test the hardware resistor change.Will buy 2 or 3 value tomorrow in case Windas solution won't work :- I've successfully installed Windas on my XP Pro SP2, with DLL and patch.- I've put component on a test board to make the interface.But Windas don't want to communicate with my P1110 :"Can"t connect the monitor ! Check bus line and condition !"To make the interface, I used kunj "how to" (page 16 of topic) :Look at my components assembly => On ImageShack website :/ img511SLASH6705 / windasinterfaceyo0.jpgIs it wrong :confused:I took capacitors on a broken assembly. I'll buy new ones tomorrow... :rolleyes:But I don't think it's capacitors fault...Please, help me ! :tongue:
mrkhan said:Hello again :)PLEASE HELP! I AM ABOUT TO FINISH BUT a new PROBLEM has arrived...I have reordered the 4-pin header into the correct order as indicated by P991_DELL_SONY in his post #737. The cable works fine now and the monitor does not switch off.But I am facing a NEW error "Windas MFC Appliaction Error" .Following the steps explained at w w w. geocities . com/gregua/windas/...After running the Windas then Setup > Config > OK > then configuring the Ecs port > COM1 and SG Name > Manual > OK. All untill here works fine.But when I try to save the .dat file from File > Save Data to File, Windas crashes and I get a box that pops up and says:"WinDAS MFC application has encountered a problem and needs to close"and following that"The instruction at"0x73dd11c7" referenced memory at "0x00000004". The memory can not be read. Click on OK to terminate the program".
I guess that it has something to do with editing the "activex.bat" file, where I believe, I did something wrong.
Setup > Config > OK > then configuring the Ecs port > COM1 and SG Name > Manual > OK.
P991 DELL SONY said:I've noticed that, once you have it already set, if you don't set it again:
Setup > Config > OK > then configuring the Ecs port > COM1 and SG Name > Manual > OK.then Windas will not crash. So don't touch Setup->config, or anything else under the Setup menu, and for that instance of WinDAS, there should be no crash.
P991 DELL SONY said:One thing you might want to try is reversing the TX and RX. This has been a common problem. TX (of cable) connects to RX (of monitor) and vice versa.
mrkhan said: But when I try to save the .dat file from File > Save Data to File, Windas crashes and I get a box that pops up and says:"WinDAS MFC application has encountered a problem and needs to close"
mrkhan said:and following that"The instruction at"0x73dd11c7" referenced memory at "0x00000004". The memory can not be read. Click on OK to terminate the program".
allalala said:I received the adapter cable from James Newton. It has a 9-pin (serial) on one end and a female 6-pin connector on the other end. After struggling with my Sony G500 monitor to male it open, I finally broke the two tabs (sniff, I hate breaking things) and could have access to the monitor connector: a vertical 4-pin connector.Now, considering the post of 300PSI (see below), how should my female 6-pin (adapter cable) be connected to the male 4-pin connector of the monitor? According to the label on my cable the pins are as follows:1- Vcc2- GND3- TX4- RX5- RTS6- CTS.The pin allocation do not match. In addition, the fear is to "F-up" the monitor on which I already spent a whole day installing the DAS software (including all the patches and carrying out all the tricky procedures) and USD 37.00 for the cable.Any guidance is welcome.
allalala said:I have been told how to rearrange the wires in the right order, namely GND, +5V, Rx, Tx.Now, how do I know which of the pins on the monitor (Sony G500) corresponds to GND: is it the bottom pin or the top pin? The adapter cable could be connected upside down...Any guidance is welcome.
allalala said:I also have this problem (cannot save .dat file). I bought the adapter cable from one of the recommended sources. I opened the housing of the DE9 connector. I am wondering if the problem does not come from the welding (for wires connected to the 4-pin/6-pin head). It seems that some welding points cover two copper lines (I am not a specialist) which may lead to erroneous signals or short-cuts.Is there any specialist able to confirm / infirm?
allalala said:mrkhan, I have the same problems as you have, except the "memory could not be read" one. I also reversed the TX and RX wires (TX-adapter should go to RX-monitor and RX-adapter to TX-monitor): same errors. As mentioned in my last post, I am wondering if my adapter cable is really working properly (soldering problem?). As I do not have any specific tools to remove solder, I do not want to try any "repair" (if any) and risk to make it worse.I am not in the mood to spend again USD 37 to buy another adapter cable either, even from another supplier. I read the whole thread through twice, I just noticed that those who have these problems rarely announce that they could solve the problem. Is it because they do not care informing people of their success, or is it because they could not solve the problem at all?Any reply is warmly welcome.
mrkhan said:Hello to everyone and allalala!PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE HEEEEEEEEELLLP ME...:sad2::sad2::sad2:P991__DELL_SONY where are you? long time no replies we NEED your help...:):):)!!!I am now in a BIG BIG trouble!!!:sad2::sad2::sad2:To my previous post #766, I just reversed the TX and RX of the monitor (as suggested by P991__DELL_SONY to Propeace post #758) on the bread board and every thing started working perfectly.I saved the EEPROM .dat file from Windas. Following that I dropped the defalut G2-value 158, and uploaded the file with new values as follows:1- From 158 to 130 (the monitor turned blank(switched off) and took around 20-25 minutes to load the new value). At this value the colors/brightness was not good. Then 2- From 130 to 110 (the monitor turned blank(switched off) and took around 3 minutes to load the new value) At this, G2=110, value the colors were almost perfect! But my curiosity leads me to do more experiment and3- From 110 to 100 (the monitor turned blank(switched off) and took around 3 minutes to load the new value) At this, G2=100, value the colors were quite darker/very low brightness.4- So I increased the G2-value from 100 to 105.5- After loading the new file with G2=105 my monitor turned blank/switched off as usual. I was expecting it to come back with the new value. BUT the WORST nightmare happened, my joy and happiness expired, I waited for 5 hours and the monitor did not turn to normal and still it is DEAD/Blank.I even removed the cable restared the PC but useless.I REQUEST to all the readers PLEASE HELP me. I have no idea what to do. If someone else has the same experience and got the monitor working again then please do share your ideas/solutions.I am DESPERATELY looking for a solution.P991__DELL_SONY where are you? long time no replies we NEED your help...!!!I am using Dell-P1110 with Windows XP SP2.
Is the light green? Have you tried unplugging the monitor? If it's a monitor software lockup, unplugging will stop it.
Cheer up!You have the dat file saved! You can reset the thing to factory defaults, and just load in the dat file.
Do you think something broke physically? It doesn't sound like it. Maybe the cable wiggled loose during the procedure?
Most importantly, when you solve it, please report it, so that some one in your situation again will have an easy time.
mrkhan said:Hello againNO GREEN light:sad2: and even no red light.Yes I did unplug the cable from the CPU not from the monitor i.e. not from both ends. I will do it today.Yes I do have the orginial dat file, BUT HOW to reset it to factory-defaults/settings in this situation? For sure nothing broke physically. About cable wiggling I do not think so, but I will cross check it.
Notably the 3rd time when I uploaded the dat file and after the monitor turned blank, there was a sound like, for example, when someone tries to close a txt (or doc or whatever) file without saving and then Windows pops up a message do you like to save changes. Of course the monitor was blank at that instant and I do not know what was the message by the windows.
Any other suggestions are welcome!
Branstrom said:Although I must say that the entire process could have been smoother if someone would take it upon them to maybe advertise about this problem and sell cables coupled with CDs with a simplified program that does what WinDAS does in a very user-friendly manner.That person could also make some money, and people wouldn't have to throw away their monitors because of this stupid error. Lots of money would be saved, perfectly good monitors wouldn't go to waste which would mean the environment would be spared a little...
ragawu said:Hi,I'm really interested in this method in regenerating Trinitron monitors, however I'm unable to confirm that I'm suffering the exact same problem.My Multiscan CPD-E500E when passed on to me had an overall lack of contrast, very poor black representation and a dullish red cast to the whole image.With brightness and contrast at minimum the screen is still clearly visible, just a little less washed out. There are no lines to speak of (excepting trinitron wires)
Branstrom said:lthough I must say that the entire process could have been smoother if someone would take it upon them to maybe advertise about this problem and sell cables coupled with CDs with a simplified program that does what WinDAS does in a very user-friendly manner.That person could also make some money, and people wouldn't have to throw away their monitors because of this stupid error. Lots of money would be saved, perfectly good monitors wouldn't go to waste which would mean the environment would be spared a little...
P991 DELL SONY said:For now though, just see if you can buy the parts locally. It's not that hard.
Rfi said:Just wanted to post about how I fixed mine. I've had this problem for THREE YEARS at first I thought it was normal, but then it gradually got worse over time. I have a Neso FD225P and it uses a Sony Trinitron tube. I fixed it by adjusting the SCREEN pot, and finally black actually looked black, and colors were vivid. I had to turn R and B up a bit afterward (Red and Blue bias up by 150, and I kept Green at 0) because colors were a bit tinted. This is the first time I've ever opened a monitor so it was quite scary knowing a CRT had a huge electrical charge. I also had to adjust the focus pot because text was fadey. Good luck.
slipkid said:first of all, i had not rebooted my PC (or powered off my monitor?) after installing the WINDAS software; and for whatever reason (and i am not sure if this would be true for anybody else) but no matter what COM port i chose in config & attached the cable to, it wouldn't work until i rebooted/powered everything off- jon -
head_spaz said:Howdy! My first post. Been lurking a long time though.First of all... thank you all for contributing to, and hosting this wonderful information. I've lost a lot of sleep dreading the idea that I would have to send my monitor in for service. With my luck, sony would screw the pooch. I bought my monitor brand new and paid full list price. Worse, is that I live in a remote area and shipping costs would KILL me (80lbs +), and the rough handling would likely kill the package UPS drove a forklift thru my GDM-F400... it took a year to settle the claim, and guess who got screwed?) So, for those good reasons, I am probably the most grateful reader on this site! Anyway... I have some Questions... if you don't mind. 1.) Does WinDAS (and the addon DLL libraries) contain a configuration utility for the Sony GDM-F520 model? (don't know the version #... but the posting date on h++p;//vvvvvv,ablserv,corn/files/windas/WDAS/ was 26-Apr-2005) 2.) When you edit the .dat to lower G2 drive... does it affect all user modes? 3.) If the monitor is left off for several days... does the modified .dat stay in effect? Or is there a factory default.dat stored as a backup in the EEPROM? (like when a BIOS battery dies and CMOS defaults to factory presets) 4.) After editing the .dat... and then using "image restoration/color reset/color return" function in the OSD, does the EEPROM change the .dat file that was just modified? (does it UP the G2 again?) 5.) Does changing G2 affect all visa modes? 6.) After reading the windas user .doc , I read that the program has a factory default library in menu 8.3. Has anyone tried this? And does it require a full recalibration of whitebalance etc??? I might be overly optimisitc, but is it possible that WinDAS accesses a hidden factory default that is stored in the EEPROM? It seems to me that factory calibration must be a major expense and labor intense, and because of the fact that EVERY CRT monitor is different, wouldn't it make sense for Sony to store an unmolested, NON-USER_ACCESSABLE copy somewhere in the EEPROM rather than in the WinDAS software??? 7.) Has anyone measured the resistor after removing it to see if it is out of spec? Does the "color return" function actually have a bug? Or does the resistor value actually drift over time? 8.) I've read mention that it might be possible to use the USB port for the ECS interface. Does WinDAS list a USB port option in the menu? Specifics about my monitor :It is overbright... getting worse. Problem started about 3 years ago. But a symptom I have not seen mentioned in this thread is that during powers up, and when it goes into power-saving mode... I get a super blue box (3/4 screen) that bounces around as it goes thru vesa mode changes. When it was new, this bouncing box was super dark gray - or wanna-be-black - and was barely noticeable. Now it's "BRIGHT-poke-your-eyes-out-blue! Whites are white. Blacks are grayish blue. OSD image quality is perfect.Occassionally I see blue retrace lines, a power-off/restart corrects that. Current Settings... BRT=0CNT=100Expert color mode = B/Red=0, B/Grn=0, B/Blu=0, G/Red=80, G/Grn=80, G/Blu=80 I've ordered parts and will be building the ECS interface cable this weekend. I will be etching my own PCB, and hope to make a batch of them. Might have some to share in a few days. Thanks for you help. Looking forward to answers. Best Regards,David
willpower101 said:no clue on that one. That's nuts. Wanted to clear something up. R457 and R459 are in series ANYway, so there's no need to worry about bridging them with solder. Those two contacts are connected 100% by a trace on the opposite site. Be aware. This fix is mainly for the dell p1110 built on the sony chassis. The hp, or others built on the nokia chassis can access g2 through menu button activated service mode and/or have a third pot on the transformer for brightness. Regards
Branstrom said:I did Image Restoration in the Color section of my OSD, then the colors were back to what they had been when I bought the monitor. They were just perfect and equally vibrant all over the spectrum. No brownish tint like before. Did you try that? Maybe it's called Color Restoration in your monitor, or something.
midieval10 said:I was wondering if someone can help me out. I have a Sony 24" W900 (different from the one posted by someone else here). It has the brightness problem and I can clearly see the retrace scan lines. There is one really noticeable white one going right across the screen. This monitor doesn't have the 4pin connector in the back. There is a service input that looks similar to an S-Video input.I'm trying to find the R459 to solder the resistor but I can't find it. I've uploaded some pics of the back. Please help me find where to solder the resistor.Edit: I've attached a pic of what plugs are in the back. Most of the Dells and Sonys here have that 4pin outlet. Mine has the S-video looking plug :rant:
Jake74 said:Can anyone help me with my Sun 90W10 monitor(same as Sony W900). On dark background you can see retrace lines and picture is slightly reddish. If I adjust color settings(R,G,B Bias and Gain) to zero, some of the retrace lines fade but some are still visible.There is a service port behind the monitor(looks somewhat S-video port but there is place for 8 pins in three rows). Where can get service cable and software(or is WinDAS appropriate)?I have opened monitors casing and I found one potentiometer for picture focus. Could there be more hidden somewhere? Also noticed that I cant use Hutzelmans instructions for brightness modification because this monitor uses different circuit board.Any help would be much appreciated.
Icrontic — Home of the Big Beef Burrito since 8-8-2000, fool.
A Short-Media community © 2003–2014.
Powered with <3 from Vanilla & WordPress.