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DELL P1110 monitor too bright

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  • edited May 2008
    (It appears I have started a Page 46.)
    Here is a limited INDEX of this whole thread that I made for my own use. I read the 45 pages up to here in one (very long) sitting. Someone crazier than me is welcome to fill out this index more completely. I started out looking only for info on “convergence”. So, many of the most informative & significant posts for some people may not be chronicled in this list. Major topics I did NOT index in detail are:
    ---The brightness problem (the original reason for the thread!) and G2 voltage level discussions.
    ---The resistor fixes.
    ---Specific CRT monitor brands or model numbers.
    ---Links to places to BUY a connector cable for using WinDAS. (Though I listed most of the main references to MAKE a cable.)


    [I wish this Index could credit people by name---but alas, to keep it compact, posts are listed as “Page : Number of post”.]


    1:11 Sony part-numbers to make the connector cable from computer to monitor.
    1:17 – 19 Warnings about high voltage inside CRT monitors. SEE also 3:57. 9:168. 24:472, 473.
    3:56 – 58 Ghosting or shadow problem to right (need better video cable).
    4:80 About “ActiveX Flexgrid” install.
    5:81 Advice on making the connector cable. Also:
    --9:169 – 172
    --11:212 More about the chip & making a cable.
    --11:215 Floppy drive connector.
    --16:317 (photos & details).
    --18:355 Brief “Troubleshooting” summary for WinDAS and converter cable.
    --20:387 Color circuit board diagram of cable (printed circuit). ALSO 38:758 More circuit stuff.
    --20:393 - 395 More circuit board pics (using DB9 connector & COM 1) and discussion.
    --21:405 MAX323 chip (requires no capacitors).
    --21:414 Connecting cable grounds through a resistor. SEE also 21:420 Shorting pins in the cable.
    --28:547 – 549 More details of making cable, or fixing cables.
    --39:762 - 770 More discussion of connector cables. RTS, CTS, TX, RX, Vcc, Ground.
    --SEE also 43:848
    --SEE also 43:854
    --SEE also 43:856
    5:86 Removing the plastic case (cover) of a monitor. SEE also 9:161.
    --SEE also 14:262 More on getting cover off & working on inside. ALSO 24:470, 472. Also 25:481.
    7:132 Where to find the inner connector on a Dell P1110 monitor.
    7:138 Warning about using “Image Restoration” on a Sony G500.
    8:153 Anti- Shadow Mask monitor opinion.
    8:156 Links to the DOS version (of DAS) and PDF guide to the software & cabling.
    9:169 – 172 First real introduction of the DAS (Digital Alignment Software) system, and converter cable.
    9:174 Discussion of “Focus” control (NOT convergence.)
    10:196 Xweebie offers interface & files. [Note that this was August 2005.]
    11:206 – 207 Screen changing size with brightness. ABL and ACL circuits.
    11:207 Don’t need a signal generator or two computers to use WinDAS.
    11:212 Screenshots from WinDAS & some How Tos.
    11:213 Link to preliminary WinDAS How To.
    11:215 Experience using WinDAS on Sony E400. Getting files to load into XP properly. Use an ATX floppy drive connector.
    13:243 How to make sure to NOT lock the OSD in the process of changing settings.
    14:279 Installing that missing .ocx file.
    17:329 Modeline settings for DAS alignment WinDAS manual mode.
    18:348 How to open & edit your WinDAS “DAT” file with old DOS “EDIT” program.
    --SEE also 21:409, 416.
    --23:452 – 456 Editing WinDAS data files. (23:458 DON”t use Notepad!)
    --27:540 More editing.
    --29:569 Use “Programmer’s Notepad”. Here: http://www.pnotepad.org/download/ 18:355 Brief “Troubleshooting” summary for WinDAS and converter cable.
    21:420 No Dynamic Convergence available in WinDAS in this case. (And 22:421.)
    22:428 How to go through Dynamic Convergence process.
    22:427 Sony GDM FW900 allowed Dynamic Convergence when updated WinDAS software.
    22:439 A high G2 level can cause blooming (not focused).
    22:429 The link to Dorian’s tips on WinDAS is broken. (It was: (http://people.aapt.net.au/~augen/win...monitor%20fix/)
    24:471 - 472 Adjusting convergence. Adjusting “focus” on P1110.
    24:473 Flyback transformer (FBT) description.
    --ALSO 28:560 Also about focus using pots on P991 (SEE 27:540).
    24:477 Color “purity” desciption.
    27:526 In WinDAS, saving DATA in the midst of crashes or errors.
    28:542 A Sony G-420 improved with “Image Restoration”. It had the brightness problem.
    28:544 Monitor must be powered on & receiving a video signal to do adjustments.
    29:569 An experience on WinDAS. ALSO 40:786 Another wrap-up of WinDAS experience.
    30:584 Update & wrap-up on “How Tos” of WinDAS.
    --Editing the DAT file.
    --Dos DAS/ WinDAS Scripting Language
    --Increasing Contrast
    --ABL Circuit
    --Hardware Problems
    32:629 The whole “color balancing” procedure (this was in conjunction with “Colorvision Spyder 2”). Also:
    --Test pattern HTML files: http://icrontic.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=21955&d=1165674633--Nokia pattern generator:
    http://icrontic.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=21956&d=116567465434:662 XCV, XBV, knobs adjust convergence. What other controls do.
    38:759 In WinDAS, “Don't touch Setup->config, or anything else under the Setup menu” within one instance.
    40:786 Communicating with monitor when freshly switched on.
    43:848 Using a USB connection for the connector cable.
    --Making ECS Cable.
    --Installing FTDI's USB serial Com port drivers
    --Installing WinDAS
    --Configure WinDas
    --Prepare PC & monitor for connection
    --Run WinDAS as Administrator!
    --Changing the G2 or other values
    --Links.
    43:854 Another chip & way to construct/make the connetor cable. (Supposedly easiest.) “No need to translate TTL (monitor) levels to RS232 levels (serial port) in computer built after 1990.”
    45:898 G2 Grid Voltage Control Circuit. Schematics & explanation of how G2 voltage works.


    OTHER helpful links from the thread:
    Location of WinDAS directories: http://www.ablserv.com/files/windas/How To:
    http://www.geocities.com/gregua/windas/Cheap adaptor cable: http://www.short-media.com/forum/showthread.php?t=19549&page=12
    More on “the cable”: http://www.geocities.com/gregua/windas/cable.html
    NOKIA Test Monitor tools here:http://www.softpedia.com/get/Multimedia/Video/Other-VIDEO-Tools/Nokia-Monitor-Test.shtml
  • edited May 2008
    Hi guys. I have a Sony Multiscan G520. It seems to have dynamic focus issues not convergence issues. I can adjust the focus on the flyback transformer, however this either brings the center into focus or the edges out of focus. I'm wondering if anyone has solved such a problem using the astro/windas software. Thanks.
  • edited May 2008
    Well, I got the answer to my question in Post #901, about adjusting individual convergence on a Sony G420. Here is the quote, from Luis A. Grunauer, Jr., expert on Sony monitors, replying to my question at "pdngallery.com/cgi-bin/ubb/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=006106;p=2" (Insert the usual "http" info into the previous quotes to get the URL.)

    “Unfortunately, the convergence of the Red and Blue beams cannot be adjusted individually via Sony WinDAS. The only way that it can be done is by removing the case, and then performing the convergence "rough" adjustments by moving the pole magnets located at the neck of the picture tube. You would need a digital video signal generator for the crosshatch patters, the monitor's service manual and knowledge and/or experience on how to work on the inside of a CRT. Once this is performed, then run WinDAS to complete the dynamic convergence, which is the fine tuning alignment of the R, G, and B beams.
    Hope this helps...
    Sincerely, LAG, Jr. “
  • edited May 2008
    rice burner said:
    Eljay and others with the P992, I have scoped out a possible resistance mod for you.

    Here are the diagrams. Judge for yourselves if its worthwhile.

    By the way, I found a G500 service manual for the P1110 at:-

    http://www.theusermanualsite.com

    Registration is free of charge.

    Compare and contrast the attached marked-up circuit diagrams. It appears the modified resistances must be lower than standard value to reduce brightness.

    Please refer to other threads in this forum for information, Thanks.

    P1110 Modification
    [ATTACH]25263[/ATTACH]

    P992 Modification
    [ATTACH]25264[/ATTACH]

    Please guys, I would greatly appreciate if anyone could post some detailed photographs of the P992 Modification before and after with resistor values used.....I'm not game to attempt it without them :sad2:
  • edited May 2008
    P991 DELL SONY said:
    Did you follow the instructions exactly?

    What's the file size and version of your RegDLL ? (88k.. I don't have a copy of winDas available to check if this is correct)You need the exact one mentioned in my installation instructions. No other will work.

    Most Google links say this error is caused by a corrupt DLL or an incorrect version.

    I've done this on XP sp2, so it's likely not an XP related issue.

    Let me know if you figure out how to solve it.
    Hello P991

    I finally got the program work. i fixed the bright issue a little but i think my monitor needs a professional calibration or fix. Still look redish :cool2:. is any company that actually fix this kind of monitors? where? o is a bad idea send this monitor to fix/recalibrate?

    cheers,
    henn
    Mexico city
  • edited Jun 2008
    Hi I have a Sony HMD-A440 19" CRT that is showing blacks as dark blue. I read about tryting the Windas adjustment software, but when I took the cover off of the monitor I dont see an obvious place to plug the RS232<>TTL cable in to. Where is the port? Will all sony monitors work with Windas, or only some?
    image
  • edited Jun 2008
    I just joined to thank you ppl. for a very informative site especially for this thread but alas I've given up.
    I have the P1110 model and did the resistor fix and it was beautiful for two whole weeks.

    The calliope has crashed to the ground.
    I went to turn it on and got nothing but pops sputters and death. It seems the Tube is shot.

    I've decided a tube replacement is out of the question so I'll join the ranks of the damned and buy an LCD display.
    I will miss this gem and do plan to get another for the sake of a project.

    Keep up the good work.
    The failure was not the fault of the resistor mod but a bum tube.

    I'm going with a 22" wide screen Dell so as not to sacrifice any screen space for my game gear.

    Using the following equation helped me make this decision;

    For 16:9:
    w = .872d
    h = .490d
    where w = width, h = height, d = diagonal

    For 16:10
    w = .848d
    h = .530d

    with the 22" 16:10 screen I will get a better match for size when running 4:3 games or vids.

    Anyway thanx for all your trouble.
    Later
  • edited Jun 2008
    Hi to all, I have recently acquired a Sun FW9010, basically equiv. to Sony FW900.
    The picture is generally good but I would like to make it as good as is possible.
    I have WinDAS installed and working, but I don't want to adjust values I don't really understand.
    Are there any dynamic convergence tutorials available anywhere? or even how to set brightness/contrast properly would be a good start.
    Cheers.
  • edited Jun 2008
    I could not find an edit option for my above post, anyway, I have went ahead and performed dynamic convergence.
    It was relatively straight forward, WinDAS is quite nice to work with.
    Luckily I have my old monitor sitting here still and a dual port video card so was able to use dual view and display fullscreen patterns on the FW9010 and have WinDAS on the other.

    I bypassed the INITIAL VALUE and OFFSET ADJUST.
    I did not adjust the H/VAMP values either, only the H/VMC values which affected the horizontal and vertical convergence respectively.
    The display is still not perfect, the blue gun is slightly off at the extreme left and right edges, it's certainly not bad enough to warrant touching the tube.

    If I do ever come across a step by step refurb. guide I may well do the full set up. But currently I am very happy with image.
  • GooberslotGooberslot Member
    edited Jul 2008
    The Windas software has both a P1110 and a P1110 (pcd). What's the difference and how do I tell which one I have?
  • edited Jul 2008
    Many thanks to all who contributed in this DIY fix and P991 DELL SONY for his excellent Windas patching.

    I have a Dell P1110 with overbright issue and got it fixed thanks to you guys. I have also made a template to make *.dat editing far more simpler and easier.

    image

    image


    You need to download WinHex and my template here.

    http://www.x-ways.net/winhex/index-m.html

    http://rapidshare.com/files/129322032/DELL_P1110_ONLY.tpl.html

    A guide on how to use this template is at the link below. Its meant for handphone modding but you will get the idea..
    http://forums.se-nse.net/index.php?showtopic=30413

    Warning: This template is only created for DELL P1110. Usage on other brand/model will absolutely corrupt your *.dat file!!


    A few note
    =============
    a) Make sure you have a backup copy of your dat file before making any changes.

    b) Open your dat file with winhex. Do not click anywhere on the main hex window and load the P1110 template using the above guide.

    c) The Title column will give you the same Description and Value as in Windas Viewer eg. G2=150, DRV_MAX=210. Always counter check with Windas Viewer to make sure this template is suitable for your monitor.

    d) Do not edit the data without any Description.

    e) Most data will have 3 digits but some will have 4 digits. If you want to change a 3 digits to 2 digits you must put a blank space in front of it eg. " 90", " 57" without the quote. "57" wrong, " 57" correct.

    f) For 2 digits to 3 digits eg. " 89" will become "120". Make sure you delete the empty space in front the _89 before you key in 120. 2digits to 2digits " 89" to " 55" , not "55".

    g) For 4 digits samething as well eg. "1250" will become " 250" (1 space in front) or " 50"(2 space in front)

    h) If you notice your setting has 3 digits with space in front " 895", that means it can store up to 4 digits.

    i) You have to maintain the same data structure or else the offset will be wrong.
  • edited Jul 2008
    A better picture of cable building. Built myself one with the cost of USD 1.50 :D

    image
  • edited Jul 2008
    I recently tried the Windas fix to the brightness problem on my Dell P991. I only reduced the G2 seeting by 4, and when I loaded the new settings, the monitor went blank and hasn't come back on. When I power on the monitor, the LED turns green for a moment, thens goes blank. I tried to return to the factory settings with out success.

    Does anyone have an idea that might help me? It looks like I screwed up.
  • edited Jul 2008
    Greetings,

    Thanks for all the information this site has been a godsend.
    I have to share with you my good fortune, recently I became the
    proud owner of three SGI branded GDM-FW900 series monitors and an SGI
    90W11 all free :D. I want to calibrate these wonderful monitors and saw
    this cable on ebay after reading this informative thread.

    http://cgi.ebay.com/RS232-to-3-3-5v-TTL-Converter-Cable-Max3232-inside_W0QQitemZ150267133705QQihZ005QQcategoryZ4663QQrdZ1QQssPageNameZWD1VQQcmdZViewItem#ebayphotohosting

    Does that look like a good cable? I see each path is separated. After reading previous posts it seems I should only be concerned with VCC, RX, TX and Ground. Any thoughts and comments would be appreciated. And again thanks for all the knowledge and information you people have brought.

    Regards
    ML
  • GooberslotGooberslot Member
    edited Jul 2008
    That's the cable I bought for my P1110 and it worked for me. It's a PITA to get those tiny little connectors throught the access port in the back though.
  • edited Aug 2008
    well this is a bit of an epic tread i came across while digging for info on my FW900. hope maybe i can get a little advice here.

    my monitor has been great for a while now but over the past ~3 weeks it has degraded a lot.

    it began with the focus i believe (convergence maybe?) going out then slowly coming back and instantly going out again until there was a good pop from the back and it would then be perfectly fine for the rest of the time it was on.

    then 2 days ago it would not come back at all, staying blurry. turning the monitor off and then each time turning it back on it would start focused then go out but never come back on its own anymore. until eventually on one start it stayed from power on and never went out of focus. yesterday it was fine all night, but..

    tonight it has been completely out. i walked in, turned the comp and monitor on, heard the usual monitor power on click and buzz then as i walked out of the room i heard it click again. it had gone off with a 2 flash amber light.
    cycled power again and the whole screen was a neon green with a very distinct green spiral scan line going down.
    this time it also did the improvement by cycling power until it warmed up.
    except the color is off. whites are not white, blues are more of an aqua and i cannot get a true red or purple (the standard deep purple in the windows 20 square appearance choices). it is a constant washed out look.
    brightness in the 20-25 range seems best and contrast quite high to make it look remotely decent.


    so now to the point.. hoping my description is good enough..
    is this something unfixable or something that can be tweaked on?

    it would seem to me to be either a color dying (not sure how that is specifically controlled) or a power supply / solder joint going out.


    sorry for such a long first post just trolling for help :), but very grateful for any i can get.
    im scared what will happen tomorrow when i turn it on. it never gets worse until it sits. it really seems i could never turn it off and it wouldn't change.
  • edited Aug 2008
    I was thinking about buying the below kit in the howto, but it doesn't come with the cables required. I don't have an old case lying around I can rip the 'reset' and 'on LED' cables out of. Can someone tell me what these cables are called so that I can figure out where to buy them? Thanks.


    [LIST=1]
    [*] Update 07/07/07:
    S.Winston has notified me that a kit costing $6.99 + $3.00 S/H contains everything needed. The wires that connect the 'reset' and 'on LED' of an old PC fit both the header pins on both the monitor and this kit nicely.
    It can be found by searching for 'RS232 to TTL 5V converter board KIT' on ebay. Or you can check out the kit being sold here:http://www.nkcelectronics.com/rs232-to-ttl-5v-converter.html
    This is substantially cheaper with almost negligible increase in difficulty.
    [/LIST]
  • edited Aug 2008
    hm, I think I found the right cables. will these work?

    http://www.frontx.com/pro/c213.html

    I am planning on getting four of these and adding them to the kit above. any advice on whether this makes sense would be great. thanks
  • edited Aug 2008
    P991 DELL SONY said:
    Yes, the list was of the improved components, I didn't list the originals. Infact, the service bulletin didn't either, I'd have to look into the parts list to see what they were.

    Are the parts expensive? I'd imagine shipping would be most of the cost, but I haven't looked them up.

    De-soldering and soldering small surface mount stuff is a pain.

    I have now bought a decent soldering iron and practised with some surface mount components but I cant find most of the ones you mentioned apart form the last (which is en route from Digi-Key). Any suggestions as to a source?
  • edited Aug 2008
    Hi! Sorry noob here, I'm considering the purchase of either a Sony or Sun 24" CRT and have read about a few of the fixable problems and ended up here.

    I understand the software and components required (just!) but am a bit concerned because I plan to use it as a display for my laptop, my laptop having no Serial Link. So can I calibrate the monitor on a friends machine and then use it with my laptop? Or does it have be connected permanently via Serial for the software to work?

    Thanks for any help, and will begin re-reading this thread now seeing what I missed! Cheers!
  • edited Aug 2008
    Hello all, to let you know where I'm having a bit of trouble, I installed the windas, I have downloaded and followed all the directions for obtaining teh various .dll files, & ran the active x instructions. But when I try to run windas I get a few errors, first one says astro sg not is used, check config. then another pop box with astro sg communication error, then the final error pop up box astro sg timing setup error, then goes to the window, error no .mdl. Please if anyone knows what the problem is help out, I woudl greatly appreciate as I have ordered the wire to get the brightness down on my 21 in ibm p260 which has the sony trinitron tube. It would be awesome if I could get this to work as I have another 5 dell 19" sony monitors I could fix as well. thanks in advance! I greatly apreciate any help.

    Dove
  • edited Aug 2008
    it doesn't need to be permanently connected with the serial cable!
    just do the setting and it will stay in the monitor EPROM, won't be deleted by turning it off
  • edited Aug 2008
    Hi yall...I picked up a Dell P1110 free off of Craigslist. When I did a web search to see what it was before I picked it up, I found this thread. Mine was indeed too bright, probably why I got it for free. I did the resistor mod in about 15-20 minutes and I am now the envy of my colleages with the largest screen in our group. I do CAD design and this thing rocks. I will pick up another one if I can find one. Now that I know what to do, I could do it again in 10 minutes. The hardest part is finding the resistor. Here are my comments.


    -Unplug and let monitor sit for days! Get an education on high voltage, not hands on experience!

    -There are only 4 mechanical supports that hold the cover on. Two screws on the bottom and two clips on the top. With the monitor upright, remove the screws first. Then insert a flat thin tool ( I used an Exacto knife with the blade in backwards...careful!) into the small slots on top and press straight down. My cover literally fell off and the plastic clips were unharmed.

    -Place the monitor face down. Remove the screws holding the metal cage that covers just the back of tube. R459 is on the right hand side on the opposite side of the PCB. It is a traditional through hole part; not a surface mount. Note! don't let anything fall down into the monitor; you will have to retrieve it (like I did!). I unsoldered the old resistor and replaced it without removing the board. I did remove the one screw nearby to allow a bit of flexibility but I placed and soldered the new resistor 6.8M, 1/2W on the opposite side of where the old one was; (putting the new one where the old one was would have required removing the entire board assembly). I was able to trim the leads and remove them.

    -Now that it is working, I cannot use the left most button on the front panel or the return color feature but if you adjust the brightness and contrast by appearance it looks really great. Not bad for a free monitor....the Black is back!

    Good luck!
  • edited Aug 2008
    Hello to all,

    I have a Compaq P1100 (fabricated November 1999) which was to bright. According to the website

    http://eric.hutzelman.com/articles/1-Sony-CRT-Brightness-Fix

    I did the brightness fix. Because of the fact I didn't have the correct resistor (weekend, stores closed) I used a 7,2megaohm (which is quite close to the required 6,8M-Ohm) from a very old black and white TV-Set (almost 30 years old). Funny to repair an relativ new high-tech computer-screen with old spare parts...

    It worked perfect. The monitor looks almost new! :bigggrin:

    Thanks to Eric and these guy's who made this thread. :cheers:

    By the way, I found a list from monitor types which maybe suffering from this problem...


    Greetings from Austria
    Jürgen


    Compaq:
    P700
    P1100
    CompaqP110

    Dell:
    D1626HT
    P780
    P991
    P992
    P1100
    P1110
    P1130

    HP:
    A4576
    D2846
    GDM-FW9012

    IBM:
    P260
    6550-33N
    6551-
    6552-23N
    6552-23S
    6552-63N
    6552-63S
    6556-
    6557-03
    6557-43
    6558-
    6639-
    6651-
    6652-


    SGI:
    GDM-FW9011
    GDM-5411
    GDM-5011
    GDM-5021
    GDM-4011

    Sony:
    CPD-21G
    CPD-E230
    CPD-E400
    CPD-E540
    CPD-G200
    CPD-G220
    CPD-G400
    CPD-G410
    CPD-G420
    CPD-G500
    CPD-G520
    GDM-F420
    GDM-F500
    GDM-F520
    GDM-FW900
    GDM-FW9011
    GDM-21PS

    Sun:
    CPD-4410
    GDM-20E20
    GDM-5010
    GDM-5410
    GDM-5510
    GDM-FW9010
  • edited Aug 2008
    I was so psyched to find this forum and so many folks in the same boat as me (too bright, etc.). Firstly, thanks to everyone for the groundwork, sweat and tears you've no doubt suffered. Long story short, I tried everything under the sun for 2+ days and never got past the 'can't connect' and "check bus lines” errors. I installed windas on 3 different computers (an IBM, a Dell & a Compaq), all running XP & all with com1 serial ports that could drive my test external modem successfully.

    After reading I knew I'd likely make a mess of the cable so I ordered an ECS cable from http://techref.massmind.org/techref/io/serial/RCL1.htm - "RLC-1 RS232-TTL level converter in a DB9 backshell." It required a few tweaks, but they were clearly documented (get the RLC-2 though - longer cable). I tried tying the extra 2 wires together, and not, and reversing the TX/RX pair and all the tips-n-tricks including superstition and black magic - nothing worked... boo hoo hoo. I tried both the software found on "www.ableserv.com" and some other copies i found around the net that were zipped up ready to go. The software seemed to work OK following the caveats given in this forum.

    So, rather than plead for help (though i'd welcome any new wisdom), I'd like to ask a couple questions / a favor.

    1) One thing that all 3 machines had that i didn't see covered in the forum is XP-SP2 and SP3. SP3 does not use updated com drivers i noted. Could i have uncovered an oddball compatibilty issue perhaps? I did try to run WINDAS in older OS modes (98 compatibility, etc) troubleshooting.

    2) Would someone be willing to sell me their old, working ECS cable, or even a new one they know works. I think perhaps i got a bum cable, but i've probably injured it with the constant reconfigurations i put it through this weekend. I'm willing to make another $20 investment/bet in this otherwise previously wonderful monitor in hopes it can be rescued. If interested in selling your cable, drop me a line [email]miller_davidw@bellsouth.net[/email]

    Thanks to everyone that worked so hard on this forum.
    Dave / ATL
  • edited Sep 2008
    satiropan said:
    .........
    I had 95 for G2, I dropped it to 80 and the display is OK......
    Satiropan
    Hello, I'd like to add that today I did it again, since I was not satisfied with the 80 value for G2.
    I set it first to 70 and the down to 60 and NOW the display is OK!
    This time I had not to re-do the geometry setting, just turned the monitor off and then on again, to enable the menu button.
    Note that I have Windas installed on a WinME HP Omnibook 900B notebook.
    I first modified the .dat file with Notepad, but it was not recognized as proper when I tried to load it back to the monitor (black display).
    So I loaded again the saved original version of the .dat file and the monitor started again, then I used Wordpad and the modified .dat file was happily uploaded to the monitor.
    This is important, use a text editor which doesn't add any unseen character to the plain ASCII of the .dat file.
    Ciao from sunny Italia
    Satiropan
  • edited Sep 2008
    ooops, forgot to mention the monitor is a Sony E400P...
    and, how to be sure you are going to modify the right number in the wordpad screen, where all the numbers appear one after another, with no reference?
    I just noted which where the 2 values before and 2 values after the G2 value in the windas list (I mean, G2 is 110 in the list, I took note also of the values of 108, 109, 111, 112
    It came out something like 254 10 80 (the G2 value) 4 211 (these figures are not real, just for example).
    so I looked for this numeric sequence in the .dat file opened with wordpad, in order to be sure I was changing the right number (in fact there where 4 occurrences when I did search the 80 number in the file, the right one was the second)
  • edited Sep 2008
    HI,

    I stuffed my .dat file for a Sony CDP-400. Can someome PM me with a copy of theirs.

    Cheers, Mike.
  • edited Sep 2008
    I have changed my FW900 G2 value to 110, which I think its the lowest you can go. my brightness value is around 10 to get a real black color. I was wondering if any of you have done both resistor mod and Windas mod on such monitor? thanks mike
  • edited Sep 2008
    Very interesting. I turned down a used Sun GDM-5410 (21'' G1 chassis) earlier today, the guy even came to deliver it. He wanted $45 for it but I politely refused because the brightness was too bright even with OSD set at 0. And I knew that trinitrons had issues with brightness. The image otherwise was beautiful and straight as all trinitrons are, not even trace lines, so I guess it wasn't that bad of a case anyways.

    What I didn't know though is that you could fix that issue. I guess I'll have to call him back, maybe I could lowball him a little because it has been listed for a a while (craigslist). I'll probably be picking it up this time though, lol.

    Anyways, I'm looking to get my cable assembled because I definately planning on buying a trinitron based monitor soon, they're just too damn nice. And know that I know I can probably fix their most common issue... Yep.

    I found this interesting piece of hardware on ebay.
    search "USB to RS232 Module Based TTL PC FTDI FT232BM/BL chip"
    Its a usb virtual serial port with direct pin outs for TTL. How neat is that? I'll probably go with a classic cable just to be safe... But this would definately be an interesting mod for more serious users.
    A tiny thing like that could easily mod into the case. Then you would just need to hook up your usb cable and fire on WinDAS whenever you felt like making an adjustment. I saw some other guy had cut a big hole to hook it up with, but this seems much nicer it it works.

    And whats this about that automatic OSD recalibration in the color menu? I think the guy selling the monitor was trying to access it, but the monitor was only on for 5 minutes so it never warmed (said it was locked until it warmed up).

    edit: yikes, had to fix that horrible formatting
  • edited Sep 2008
    kevinf89 said:
    Very interesting. I turned down a used Sun GDM-5410 (21'' G1 chassis) earlier today, the guy even came to deliver it. He wanted $45 for it but I politely refused because the brightness was too bright even with OSD set at 0. And I knew that trinitrons had issues with brightness. The image otherwise was beautiful and straight as all trinitrons are, not even trace lines, so I guess it wasn't that bad of a case anyways.

    What I didn't know though is that you could fix that issue. Wish I would've found this thread before I asked him to come out. I guess I'll have to call him back, maybe I could lowball him a little because it has been listed for a a while (craigslist). I'll probably be picking it up this time though, lol.

    Anyways, I'm looking to get my cable assembled because I definately planning on buying a trinitron based monitor soon, they're just too damn nice. And know that I know I can probably fix their most common issue... Yep.

    I found this interesting piece of hardware on ebay.
    search "USB to RS232 Module Based TTL PC FTDI FT232BM/BL chip"
    Its a usb virtual serial port with direct pin outs for TTL. How neat is that? I'll probably go with a classic cable just to be safe... But this would definately be an interesting mod for more serious users.
    A tiny thing like that could easily mod into the case. Then you would just need to hook up your usb cable and fire on WinDAS whenever you felt like making an adjustment. I saw some other guy had cut a big hole to hook it up with, but this seems much nicer it it works.

    And whats this about that automatic OSD recalibration in the color menu? I think the guy selling the monitor was trying to access it, but the monitor was only on for 5 minutes so it never warmed (said it was locked until it warmed up).

    edit: yikes, had to fix that horrible formatting
  • edited Sep 2008
    Hi. I found this thread by Google and I think if anyone can help me here it would be you guys.

    My P1110 recently went insane. This afternoon I was just browsing the web and suddenly the OSD came up while the Right/Contrast icon kept flashing. At first I thought the button had become stuck, a mechanical fault or something. Nope. Infact the entire button interface seems to have flat out gone bonkers. The buttons have magically rewritten themselves even

    Right/Contrast Button: Either works or does nothing, hard to tell for obviously reason.
    Left/Contrast Button: Works Fine
    OSD Button: Works as the Left/Contrast Button
    Up/Brightness Button: Brings up the Menu OSD
    Down/Brightness Button: Acts as the Up/Contrast button
    Auto-Adjust Button: Also acts as the Up/Contrast button
    Reset Button: Acts as the Down/Contrast button

    Additionally, the machine will not memorize any setting changes UNLESS power is pressed while the menu OSD is on screen. Otherwise it goes back to what ever it last memorized when the menu OSD was on and power was pressed. The closest thing I can do to solve this right now is to button smash my way into the menu and enable the button lock but I can't get it to memorize the button lock of power is pressed, the resolution/refresh rate is changed or if it goes into sleep mode.

    So... Any ideas? Cause this makes no sense to me. I disassembled it and looked at the button interface. It seems to be just fine. With the plug pulled from the card, the monitor suddenly thinks the LEFT Contrast button is stuck instead.

    ...Right now, I'm looking as used item sites to locate a replacement cause this new madness, it seems like it'd be easier to find another one than fix it.
  • edited Sep 2008
    DJ_Izumi said:
    Hi. I found this thread by Google and I think if anyone can help me here it would be you guys.

    My P1110 recently went insane. This afternoon I was just browsing the web and suddenly the OSD came up while the Right/Contrast icon kept flashing. At first I thought the button had become stuck, a mechanical fault or something. Nope. Infact the entire button interface seems to have flat out gone bonkers. The buttons have magically rewritten themselves even

    Right/Contrast Button: Either works or does nothing, hard to tell for obviously reason.
    Left/Contrast Button: Works Fine
    OSD Button: Works as the Left/Contrast Button
    Up/Brightness Button: Brings up the Menu OSD
    Down/Brightness Button: Acts as the Up/Contrast button
    Auto-Adjust Button: Also acts as the Up/Contrast button
    Reset Button: Acts as the Down/Contrast button

    Additionally, the machine will not memorize any setting changes UNLESS power is pressed while the menu OSD is on screen. Otherwise it goes back to what ever it last memorized when the menu OSD was on and power was pressed. The closest thing I can do to solve this right now is to button smash my way into the menu and enable the button lock but I can't get it to memorize the button lock of power is pressed, the resolution/refresh rate is changed or if it goes into sleep mode.

    So... Any ideas? Cause this makes no sense to me. I disassembled it and looked at the button interface. It seems to be just fine. With the plug pulled from the card, the monitor suddenly thinks the LEFT Contrast button is stuck instead.

    ...Right now, I'm looking as used item sites to locate a replacement cause this new madness, it seems like it'd be easier to find another one than fix it.

    Not suggesting anything, but have you done any mods to it? I think it'd be a good idea to track such things. Have you done the resistor mod? Or gone poking around in there otherwise? Even to attach the TTL cable? Like I said, its probably just an old piece of hardware bugging out, but it'd be nice to know.
  • edited Sep 2008
    No, my P1110 is unaltered in anyway.

    Additionally, it seems to have fixed itself, but I found a 'new' free P1110 online and the guy is delivering it tonight for $20 flat. I dunno how good the tube in that one will be of course. I don't entirely trust my current P1110, I mean, if it screwed up like that once there are decent odds it's just the first sign of it totally dieing.

    If not... A pair of P1110's on my desk! Woo! :D
  • edited Sep 2008
    Whoa!
    I have to admit that this is the thread of all threads.

    Must say thanks to all, especially P991DELLSONY, for your contributions including John Greg for the index.

    Got hold of a Dell P1110 that was made back in 2000 but it was manufactured in Japan (rare nowadays).

    I think it's a keeper despite it's age and 'too bright' issue.

    Successfully installed WinDAS in 2 PCs with WinXP after following the twists and turns.

    Just have to build the ECS cable; got to find a good electronics parts source that is cheap in Toronto (GTA).

    Will post my success or failure.

    PS.
    I know I haven't asked or answered any questions; just wanted everyone to know that this thread is still helping to rescue perfectly good Sony based monitors.
  • edited Sep 2008
    I purchased one of these cables:
    http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=150289019203

    Used a spare floppy power connector to connect to the ECS 4 pins on my
    GDM-FW900 (from top to bottom, GND, V+, RXD, TXD). This according to the service manual.

    WinDas installed on Computer 1.

    COM connection is from Computer 1. Montior under test is attached to computer 2. Both on, both with screen display.

    COM connection is COM1, manual. Monitor configured to GDM-FW900.
    Closed and restarted WinDas (per previous notes).

    Attempts to save the eprom data causes WinDas to crash. Attempting
    to enable "expert" mode indicate communication cable error.

    Switch RXD and TXD around just in case Sony was dyslexic in their service manual.

    For those that have had similar problems, what did you do to isolate the issue?

    It can be anything from the COM port (it's enabled in the BIOS), the ECS cable, WinDas (I followed instructions) to the ECS port not repsonding.

    Once I get this working, I'll post my notes on the GDM-FW900.
  • edited Oct 2008
    I got the same cable and also can't connect (IBM 6552-63N / P270). Some say you must close the circuit by connecting pins or ends 4 (dtr) 6 (dsr) 8 (cts) together. Others caution that you only have moments to do all this before it won't accept input. I bought a second cable from a diff vendor to eliminate that - no diff. I'm at a loss. Going to install an older version of XP or even Win98 on a diff machine to see if that makes any difference.
    jdk7 said:
    I purchased one of these cables:
    http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=150289019203

    Used a spare floppy power connector to connect to the ECS 4 pins on my
    GDM-FW900 (from top to bottom, GND, V+, RXD, TXD). This according to the service manual.

    WinDas installed on Computer 1.

    COM connection is from Computer 1. Montior under test is attached to computer 2. Both on, both with screen display.

    COM connection is COM1, manual. Monitor configured to GDM-FW900.
    Closed and restarted WinDas (per previous notes).

    Attempts to save the eprom data causes WinDas to crash. Attempting
    to enable "expert" mode indicate communication cable error.

    Switch RXD and TXD around just in case Sony was dyslexic in their service manual.

    For those that have had similar problems, what did you do to isolate the issue?

    It can be anything from the COM port (it's enabled in the BIOS), the ECS cable, WinDas (I followed instructions) to the ECS port not repsonding.

    Once I get this working, I'll post my notes on the GDM-FW900.
  • edited Oct 2008
    I recall once reading somewhere that using the DVI input will circumvent the problems. Anyone have any experience or input on that possiblity?
    Thanks
    Dave
  • edited Oct 2008
    Hi everybody. First time poster. I've read through this thread and learned a whole lot about these Sony monitor problems. Thanks to everyone who's been kind enough to share their knowledge.

    I've been using a Sony (rebadged SGI) FW900 for a number of years now. It's gets calibrated regularly, but I noticed over the last couple of calibration cycles not being able to get the Black Point down to where it should be. Classic "too bright" problem I guess. I read through all the WinDAS info and ordered a cable. My question is whether I'm too far gone to go this route and should consider a repair. Even at a setting of 0 (zero) on Brightness the BP on the monitor reads ~7 cd/m^2. As I siad this degredation started maybe about 1 year ago but has gotten to this point. Is it worth doing the WinDAS adjustment? Or should I expect this to continue to degrade until a repair will have to be made anyway?
  • edited Oct 2008
    I finally got around to building the ECS cable last weekend after I purchased a $5 breadboard and used spare parts at my disposal. I now have a brightness/contrast setting of 30/50 after re-configuring my G2 value from 178 to 120. Got a scare at one point when I changed the G2 value to 90 and the Dell P1110 monitor went blank and stayed dead until I shut it off, restarted the PC and reloaded a previously saved setting. Thought I had toasted my monitor but I suspect that my editing dropped a character when I changed my setting from 110 to 90 instead of 090. Now the colours are nice and vibrant again and the monitor is like new.

    I basically followed the instructions in the following URL to the letter because it was the same as what I had with regards to the parts:

    http://www.myblog.bloggybloggy.com/hacking-monitor-to-fix-too-bright-screens-26-09-2007/


    The only thing that I noticed was different from my situation is that the layout of the TTL header pins at the back of the Dell P1110 from top to bottom is as follows:
    GND
    VCC (+5)
    RXD
    TXD
    I came to this conclusion when I had to switch the transmit and receive pins around in order for things to work.

    I didn't have to do any soldering and simply used various lengths of 22 guage solid copper wiring to connect the PC and the monitor to the breadboard.

    The monitor was attached to the breadboard with a couple pairs of the small cables used to attach blinking LEDs in PC casings to motherboards. This worked nicely because the connectors at the end of the cables fit perfectly to the TTL header pins at the back of the monitor as well as accepting the 22 gauge wire snugly.

    The PC was attached to the breadboard using a female DB9 connector that had a cable extension attached to it with a female header pin block which accepted the 22 gauge wire nicely. Thus, with the right size connectors I simply used the 22 gauge solid copper wiring to connect everything together.

    Thanks again to all.

    =======================================================
    toliveforfun said:
    Whoa!
    I have to admit that this is the thread of all threads.

    Must say thanks to all, especially P991DELLSONY, for your contributions including John Greg for the index.

    Got hold of a Dell P1110 that was made back in 2000 but it was manufactured in Japan (rare nowadays).

    I think it's a keeper despite it's age and 'too bright' issue.

    Successfully installed WinDAS in 2 PCs with WinXP after following the twists and turns.

    Just have to build the ECS cable; got to find a good electronics parts source that is cheap in Toronto (GTA).

    Will post my success or failure.

    PS.
    I know I haven't asked or answered any questions; just wanted everyone to know that this thread is still helping to rescue perfectly good Sony based monitors.
  • edited Oct 2008
    I've got something new going on with my monitor - wondering if anyone else has experienced this, knows what it is due to, if there is any fix or anything I can do (hardware or software-wise) to correct this, or if my monitor is just dying a slow death, or what.

    I usually leave my PC on all night hammering away at something or other but turn the monitor off to save electricity. Used to be when I turned the monitor back on the next day it might take maybe 15 seconds to wakeup. Now though it takes more like 15 minutes (well it seems like 15 minutes when I am sitting in front of it staring at a blank screen - probably more like 4-5 minutes I guess but I haven't timed it).

    Instead of the power indicator turning solid green immediately like it used to do then the screen waking up, now the power indicator just flashes green for several minutes before it goes solid & the monitor then comes on.

    Any ideas/comments/suggestions?? THANKS.
  • edited Oct 2008
    Oh well, looks like it is time to retire this monitor. I left it on for over an hour but still no go this morning, the power light just blinks green instead of going solid and turning on. I don't know what's wrong with it.

    When it was working I really liked it though, especially since I got it for a great price (free!), and did all that work on it like adding resistors and then messing with Windas, as in this thread.

    Since these monitors supposedly turn up cheap for various reasons (like folks who get rid of them because they don't know about fixing the overbright problem) I've decided to try to find another one. Also I need the dual input feature this one has so I can switch between PCs so that's another reason to get another one like this.

    So now I'm on a quest to find another one. If anyone has any suggestions (or looking to get rid of one) please let me know. I'll hold onto this one for a little awhile in case I come across any hints as to how to fix its starting up problem though.....going back to a nonflat screen now is really really wierd, I feel like my eyes are warped or something!
  • edited Nov 2008
    Was able to find one locally pretty quick!

    The problem with this one seems to be more related to the CONTRAST than the G2 setting for brightness. I am futzing around with it with WINDAS and can get it much better looking (was originally very washed out) but I can't find a good middle ground between too light and too dark.

    Any recommended settings to use in WINDAS (or in general) for a contrast issue? I will re-read this thread again since it has been so long that I have revisted it but thought I would ask too....
  • edited Nov 2008
    Hey Slipkid,

    I only played around with the G2 setting using the black box image from P991 DELL SONY that contains the hidden messages or so it seems. I figured that if I could adjust the brightness/contract settings to get the darkest black while trying to see the messages things were set right. However, I had to compromise and settle for a black color that was pretty dark in order to see the messages. In the end I settled with a pretty dark black at the expense of seeing the 2nd message ever so barely and seeing a hint of the 3rd message but not being able to read it. I think this is pretty good considering that probably only a brand new monitor tuned perfectly would see all 3 messages pretty clearly.

    All in all I'm extremely satisfied with the results; especially the brilliant colors.

    slipkid said:
    Was able to find one locally pretty quick!

    The problem with this one seems to be more related to the CONTRAST than the G2 setting for brightness. I am futzing around with it with WINDAS and can get it much better looking (was originally very washed out) but I can't find a good middle ground between too light and too dark.

    Any recommended settings to use in WINDAS (or in general) for a contrast issue? I will re-read this thread again since it has been so long that I have revisted it but thought I would ask too....
  • edited Nov 2008
    toliveforfun said:
    Hey Slipkid,

    I only played around with the G2 setting using the black box image from P991 DELL SONY that contains the hidden messages or so it seems. I figured that if I could adjust the brightness/contract settings to get the darkest black while trying to see the messages things were set right. However, I had to compromise and settle for a black color that was pretty dark in order to see the messages. In the end I settled with a pretty dark black at the expense of seeing the 2nd message ever so barely and seeing a hint of the 3rd message but not being able to read it. I think this is pretty good considering that probably only a brand new monitor tuned perfectly would see all 3 messages pretty clearly.

    All in all I'm extremely satisfied with the results; especially the brilliant colors.
    congrats! i will have to look for that part of the thread with the balck box image thingee - i reread some of this earlier but didn't see that

    i think i have my new monitor looking pretty good now but i'm sure it could be better; i noticed if i switched from the builtin MENU setting for COLOR from "expert" to "easy" it looks a lot better - i know that is just luck as far as what the easy settings were vs the expert ones but until i figure out (or remember from my old monitor) what it all means i'm sticking with what i have now


    wondering as far as my old monitor which i can't power up anymore - are there any useful parts i should consider salvaging from that rather than just tossing it out? or maybe somewhere up here wants it (you'd have to come to my house to get it!)

    cheers
  • edited Nov 2008
    After almost two years, it is time for me to adjust my FW900 again. I still have the cable I built, but I am using a different computer. WinDAS keeps crashing when I try to back up my DAT file, complaining about some MFC business. I tried replacing my Mfc42.dll file, which worked for someone else in this thread a long time ago, but it isn't working for me. Has anyone else been able to fix a crashing WinDAS?

    Thanks,

    Chris
  • edited Nov 2008
    hello
    i just had the chance to read this thread because i realy need a solution to my monitor.
    i'm using compaq p1100 for more than 4 years and i dont remember turning it off unless there is a blackout.
    the problem now with my monitor is exactly whats been described through this thread, over brightness, retrace lines,long warm-up time(about 5min).
    local technicians is nothing more than a trash, all they can say is that the tube is damaged and need to be replaced.:werr:
    i ran through the web into some tips to how repair over brightness and long warm-up time as follow:
    :thumbup
    Dell Ultrascan 21 inch monitor model P1110 Symptoms: Excessive brightness. Solution: Soldered a 10M high voltage resistor in parallel with one of the two existing 10M resistors leading to the G2 pin on the little board on the neck of the CRT. This effectively made the resistance 5M. After this mod, it was noticed that the monitor took a long time to warm up...around 60 seconds before a picture would appear. C685 on the power supply board (10V 100uF) was high ESR and was replaced. Monitor warmup time was around 15 seconds thereafter.
    :thumbup
    from my monitor manual i found the same capacitor and resistors and i don't know if the above tip will work on my monitor or not.
    :fold: this is an important part for me....
    recently i just faced another problem with my monitor , the color heat is fluctuate and its range from 8000k-11000k.
    another describtion to this problem is that the white color change from absolute white to light grey in 10 sec interval.

    i hope someone can help me with this problem and tell me what exactly i need to replace inside the monitor or what to use.
    my monitor is realy precious to me and i dont intend to through it away.
  • edited Nov 2008
    hello
    just need to know what all the substitutes for the ic max232 or max233 can i use for the cable.
  • edited Nov 2008
    If you're asking which IC chips can be used for the "Cable" device with the WinDas software then there are many.

    However, I believe that the two you mentioned below are pretty common with the former requiring additional capacitors to complete the "Cable" device while the latter requires no additional components other than the IC chip. Of course both require wires and connectors to hook-up the "Cable" device to the monitor and computer.

    I fixed my monitor using the instructions from the following link which utilizes the MAX233 chip:

    http://www.myblog.bloggybloggy.com/h...ns-26-09-2007/


    Hopes this helps.
    allouh said:
    hello
    just need to know what all the substitutes for the ic max232 or max233 can i use for the cable.
  • edited Nov 2008
    I don't know if you've fixed the problem already but it seems like you need the version of the file 'MFC42.DLL' for your OS.
    Jibbajaba said:
    After almost two years, it is time for me to adjust my FW900 again. I still have the cable I built, but I am using a different computer. WinDAS keeps crashing when I try to back up my DAT file, complaining about some MFC business. I tried replacing my Mfc42.dll file, which worked for someone else in this thread a long time ago, but it isn't working for me. Has anyone else been able to fix a crashing WinDAS?

    Thanks,

    Chris
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