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DELL P1110 monitor too bright

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Comments

  • Straight_ManStraight_Man Geeky, in my own way Punta Gorda, FL Icrontian
    edited Oct 2004
    Jameco can source and supply milspec resistors (look for those with 5% variance or less, in the commercial catalog, and NOT the home catalog). As to where Navy Electro(nics) Tech got his at work, um, milspec supplier I would guess....
  • edited Oct 2004
    So anyone have any insight on why my brightness controls are all messed up?
    When you increase it from 0 to 30 it gets brighter, but if you increase it after that, it actually gets darker.

    I'm really confused. I'm wondering if I burned out the resistor with heat when I was soldering it on.
  • edited Oct 2004
    Go to control panel then adobe gamma load a different monitor profile i am using the canon hdtv gamma 1.5 monitor phosphors (trinitron) check the single gamma only box desired Macintosh default 1.80 white point hardware 6500 k daylight
    ADJUSTED SAME AS HARDWARE I'M USING THE SAME MONITOR AND NOW MY BLACKS ARE BLACK INSTEAD OF WASHED OUT GRAY !!!! HOPE THIS HELPS YA OUT !
  • edited Oct 2004
    TheSmJ said:
    You sure? Check Color/sRGB tab/ and select "Color Return". Keep in mind it may say "Available after warmup", and be unselectable untill the message goes away.
    right! i did do that b4, under the "EASY" color submenu

    i just tried it with the RGB menu as well

    i didn't realize that was what you meant by "AUTO COLOR CALIBRATION"


    now here's a new perplexing thing

    when i just went to do that under the "RGB" setting, now my monitor is really "faded".....it looks terrible....no brightness or color adjustments seem to help either


    but i can go into the "COLOR" menus, and switch it to "EASY" instead of "RGB" & it looks alot better

    also tried the 3 settings there, 9300, 6500, and 5000, and 9300 looks "best" but not great

    i don't know what any of this stuff means but think i learned something - that there is alot more to this than i realized....
  • edited Oct 2004
    Hello, I found this thread to be very helpful as I too have this monitor. I dont have a problem with it being too bright. My problem is that I get a shadow to the right of everything on screen. It is not the Convergence settings because the shadow has no color. Is there a controller inside the monitor that will adjust this? Or is this some signs of old age which can not be repaired? Also, how do I remove the cover from the back of the monitor. Thanks for your help :)
  • profdlpprofdlp The Holy City Of Westlake, Ohio
    edited Oct 2004
    Unless you know what you are doing, removing the cover of a monitor can be extremely dangerous. Monitors are not like a typical household appliance (including the computer itself), even unplugged there is enough stored voltage in there to kill you.

    The shadow problem sounds like it could be interference from a power cable or a speaker. Try moving anything electrical or magnetic which is near your monitor and see if the shadow disappears or moves. :wave:
  • edited Nov 2004
    Element said:
    Hello, I found this thread to be very helpful as I too have this monitor. I dont have a problem with it being too bright. My problem is that I get a shadow to the right of everything on screen. It is not the Convergence settings because the shadow has no color. Is there a controller inside the monitor that will adjust this? Or is this some signs of old age which can not be repaired? Also, how do I remove the cover from the back of the monitor. Thanks for your help :)
    I am a new owner of a pre-owned Dell P1110 monitor. I picked it up from the trash pile at a friend's company. It had the brightness problem. I performed the resistor hack. I went to Radio Shack, and picked up a 100-pack assortment of cabon film resistors. In that package, was 5 1-megaohm resistors. I soldered them all in series to create 5 megaohms, and soldered it in. And now the monitor is good as new!!!!!! Thanks to all who have provided information on this.

    On the note of your shadows, I also am getting shadows to the right of every dark contrast line. The reason this happens is because this particular monitor is very sensitive to interference. If you are using a poor quality cable (as I am, its a $20 best buy cheap cable), the ghosting is typical. Buying a high quality cable, I am told, will solve this problem. Here is the cable that I just ordered which I hope will solve the problem:

    http://www.pccables.com/cgi-bin/orders6.cgi?action=Showitem&id=ID1811422&partno=00646&search=MONITOR&rsite=pccables.com&rcode=

    That is PCCables part number 00646, 10FT. SVGA CABLE MONITOR HDDB15 M-M, $6.45. I will keep posted how this cable works for me when it arrives in the next few days.
  • edited Nov 2004
    great infomation partipilo. I hope this cable works for me too. :)
  • edited Nov 2004
    Element said:
    great infomation partipilo. I hope this cable works for me too. :)
    That monitor cable worked! No more ghosting! Wheee!!~
  • edited Nov 2004
    mine was shipped out today. I hope i have the same results.
  • edited Nov 2004
    TheSmJ said:
    Darker.

    The higher the resistance, the brighter the picture.
    I am going to try getting a 10 MOhm pot. (variable resistor) That way,
    I can fine-tune it and also readjust later if the screen degrades again.

    I will let you know what happens.

    Dan
  • edited Nov 2004
    The shadow is gone!! thanks for the tip. :D
  • edited Nov 2004
    I ended up just using a 5.1 MOhm resistor instead of the POT. BTW, I could
    have gotten the same result by leaving in the existing resistor and soldering
    in another 10 MOhm resistor in parallel, givinig a total resistance of 5 MOhm.
  • edited Nov 2004
    I was about to open up the case and change the resistor, when I came across a much simpler fix for the washed-out appearance on my Dell P991 Trinitron.

    Go into the Option Menu and activate the Color Return feature (available after the monitor has warmed up).

    This will recalibrate the grey levels and fix the brightness.

    Before, I had to turn it down to 0 brightness. Now it's perfect at level 50.

    No need to risk being fried by human bug zapper or obtain fancy service software.

    Dan
    www.autonvs.com
  • EnverexEnverex Worcester, UK Icrontian
    edited Nov 2004
    One killer on this monitor is the convergence. How the hell do you set it up perfectly? I just can't seem to set it up perfectly :(
  • edited Nov 2004
    Enverex your problem is most likely the cable you are using. Get the vga cable that is posted on page 3 of this thread. What you are expiriencing is most likely a shadow caused by your monitor cable and not the convergence settings. I had the same shadow and the cable posted in this thread fixed my shadowing. It is a high quality svga cable and VERY cheap as well. :)
  • EnverexEnverex Worcester, UK Icrontian
    edited Nov 2004
    Element said:
    Enverex your problem is most likely the cable you are using. Get the vga cable that is posted on page 3 of this thread. What you are expiriencing is most likely a shadow caused by your monitor cable and not the convergence settings. I had the same shadow and the cable posted in this thread fixed my shadowing. It is a high quality svga cable and VERY cheap as well. :)
    Location: Worcester, UK
    It isn't shadowing either, is is either red or blue depending on where on the screen you look. If I set it up for the center of the screen then left will be one way out and the right will be the other way out.
  • edited Dec 2004
    I just stumbled on this thread via a google search. I bought an overly bright Dell P1100 from a guy for $15, figuring I could just adjust the internal brightness pot (I have experience with adjusting monitors having done it for a few months for the Navy). When I opened it up I was really suprised that there were NO pots to adjust it. After reading this thread I opened it up and soldered a 10Mohm resistor is parallel (forming effectively a 5Mohm resistor). PROBLEM SOLVED! Thank you whoever thought up this solution!

    BTW, for this particular monitor the visible raster is completely extinguished (i.e. black background in non-techy speech) at a brightness of 5. I have my contrast set to 75.
  • edited Dec 2004
    Well you never know what you're going to find when you use Google - fortunately it was this thread!

    I (believe) I'm also suffering the brightness over time with my G500. Mine is a built in 2000 model (Confirmed if you hold down the center button after switching off the monitor, turning back on still holding it, then wait for the grey information box to pop up).

    I'm wondering if anyone here can answer the following two questions:

    1. Would the resistor value change for Australian 240/260Volt models?

    2. Was this problem rectified with the G520 refresh model?

    I'm adept at soldering and have no qualms about performing the task but the clear difference between U.S/Australian power standards is of obvious concern.

    Great thread - glad I found it.

    Regards :thumbsup:

    P.S I had a 19" Sony G400PS before the G500 and this model DID NOT suffer this problem. I've always wondered why my G500 was overly bright no matter what I did with the Brightness/Gamma setting. I'm a PC Gamer and I always notice the difference in graphic detail between the G500 and the 400PS my Brother now uses.
  • edited Dec 2004
    Hi.

    Ive been looking at the guide on how to fix this problem. But there are something that gets me a bit confuses.

    Looking at the http://www.hutzelman.com/home/hardware/mods/monitor/ guide
    ull see that it says: "For reference, the original R459 resistor is supposed to be rated at 10 MOhm"
    But if u look at the pictures u can see it, or parts off it.. and u can se a first BLUE and and a second YELLOW stripe.. This would give us the value 6 4.
    When i look inside my monitor i see the rest of the strips and it is BLACK and GOLD. Thus telling me that this resistor is only 64Ohm
    The new one that is solded on is BLUE, RED, GREEN, GOLD thus giving the value 6.2MOhm.

    That meens that we go from 64 to 6200000 witch is quite a leep.

    Can any one that has done this check the part that they took out to see what value it had? It would have been ok to go from 10MOhm to 6.2MOhm but going from 64 to 6200000 just seems to much...

    Ill try the none playing with the resistors stuff to night and if it dont work ill try to change the resistor tomorrow.. but i would really like to hear what u guys have to say about this..

    /vonGrepa
  • Domie-DDomie-D South Western Pennsylvania
    edited Dec 2004
    [QUOTE=Don Froula]I fixed this problem on my P1110 last night in 2 minutes with NO need for hardware modifications or expensive Sony software. This may not work for all P1110's, but it sure cured the "too bright" problem for me.

    - Turn off monitor.

    - Hold down the center front panel "set" button. While holding this button down, swich on monitor. Continue holding the "set" button for 4 seconds, release and immediately push again.

    - A password prompt will appear on screen. Enter "7711" using the monitor front panel set and arrow keys.

    - A service mode screen will come up.

    - Maneuver to the "Gray Scale" menu.

    - Set "Brightness" to 50% and "Contrast" to 90% (these are the same controls as the normal menu).

    - Adjust the "G2" setting down to the optimal brightness. This setting controls the feedback loop for all three R-G-B electron guns in the CRT. I set mine to a value of 125, but your optimal value may differ.

    - Turn monitor off and on to exit service mode.

    - Fine tune brightness and contrast with normal controls.

    -That's it!

    Don,
    Did you do this with a Dell Brand P1110? I tried this with mine and couldn't get into the service mode....

    Does anyone here have the Dell brand and has gotten into the service mode?
    Can you please detail how to do it step by step?

    I have tweaked my projection tv at home using the service menu instead of hosing it by adjusting the G2 trimpots... so that is why I like to use the service menu instead of removing the old resistor and soldering a new one.

    I really like this monitor. I do have the "Color Return" set to on... the brightness does settle down automatically after the monitor is on for about 30 minutes. After this time the blacks are indeed black. I guess I could just live with this... however I like to tweak any electronic device I own.

    By the way I found this thread like so many others by doing a search for this particular monitor. I've been enjoying this thread and this forum.
  • edited Dec 2004
    Don Froula said:

    Did you do this with a Dell Brand P1110? I tried this with mine and couldn't get into the service mode....

    Does anyone here have the Dell brand and has gotten into the service mode?
    Can you please detail how to do it step by step?
    like you, i also have a DELL P1110

    and the instructions posted above do not work for me either....it does nothing other than go into the usual setup menu
  • EnverexEnverex Worcester, UK Icrontian
    edited Dec 2004
    I have a Dell P1110, also can't get into this special mode.
  • edited Dec 2004
    Enverex said:
    I have a Dell P1110, also can't get into this special mode.
    Same here: Dell Trinitron P1110, screen too bright to look at even with settings down, and the 'set' button procedure doesn't seem to work (unless I'm using the wrong button? but I've tried them all).

    I also found a copy of the WinDAS software, but it won't run; keeps complaining about missing DLL files I can't find (TRANSDLL.DLL).

    A copy of the DAS software won't run either; keeps looking for a security key.

    Finally, I tried to take the cover offf the monitor to poke around inside, but after taking out the two screws, I felt like I couldn't take the cover off without snapping something.

    Of course, the first thing I did was try to get help from Dell, but as you might guess, I went through 3 weeks of back-and-forth emails before they finally told me there was nothing they can do to help.

    This has been very frustrating, and I'm not better off than I was to begin with, as many of you are. Please, if anyone's got advice on what I can try, I'd appreciate it. Thank you.
  • edited Dec 2004
    The back cover will come off, but I had to REALLY force it. I ended up breaking the two retaining tabs on the top with a flat-blade screwdriver (You'll see two spots at the seam on the top where you can insert a screwdriver). Even with the top tabs broken, the two screws on the bottom seem to do a decent job of holding the cover on. That cover doesen't serve any structural purpose anyway, so the two screws are plenty good enough at holding it on.
  • edited Dec 2004
    I think Domie D's monitor isn't the same one we have here.
  • edited Dec 2004
    I have a DELL (Sony) P1110 monitor with a brightness problem. The diagnosed problem is G2 (screen) is too high. G2 is controlled by IC404 PWM output pin 14. The pulses are filtered by C456 and this signal leads to IC405 op amp. The control of G2 is then done by Q406, Q407 and Q410. All of these components appear to be functional in my monitor. That would suggest the setting of the PWM is wrong. The adjustments in this monitor are under processor control and the data is stored in eeprom. I suppose the data has become corrupted or is missing. I am working on an interface unit to be used with the WinDAS software to allow adjustment of the data. If anyone has any information on the circuitry of the A-1500-819-A interface unit, it would save a lot of time and be very much appreciated. I have built an interface unit but the software tries to communicate, then responds ECS error, so something is not quite right yet. This monitor also has a convergence problem. It can be set at the middle but the edges must be compromised. The convergence rings on the tube are still firmly set, so I am thinking this can be adjusted with the software also. If anyone can supply any information, please contact me. Thank you.
  • TheSmJTheSmJ Farmington Hills (Metro Detroit)
    edited Dec 2004
    Doesn't look like I could tell you anything you don't already know, but please keep us posted! I now have both a "Compaq" P1100 and "Dell" P1110, and both have this connector on the back of the unit, so the software + cable interface schematics would be really nice to have around.

    I had always assumed the resistor was just wearing out over time (due to a problem on the electronic component supplier's end, like all of the motherboards with leaking/bursting caps). I couldn't really imagine how data in an EEPROM could simply become "lost", especially on pretty much every P1100, 1110, or equivelent ever made, but I'm no expert when it comes to these types of semiconductors.

    Out of curiosity, how'd you manage to find the software and your current cable to get yourself this far?
  • edited Dec 2004
    The software was obtained with the help of a previous poster (deesto). The software needs a bit of reverse-engineering if you know what I mean, to get past the security key. If you use the software, be sure to install the ActiveX Flexgrid control and register it, or the mdl files will be inaccessable. The resistor in my monitor is 2.2M just as it should be. The feedback/reference resistors all check to be the proper values also. Rather than change this resistor as has been suggested, I can connect a resistor of 1.5M from the CRT G2 point to ground and the voltage lowers to an acceptable range and monitor looks great (except for the bit of covergence at the sides). At this point it is still a mystery as to why all of these monitors seem to have the same failure, but eeproms are not the most reliable components. They have been known as a high failure rate part. Many RCA televisions using adjustment data in eeproms have had a very high failure rate (if you had a newer "dead" RCA television chances were that the eeprom was bad). When (if) I get this working, it will be interesting to find if the eeprom has actually failed or the data has changed.
  • edited Dec 2004
    Oh the cable....I built it. It's not working correctly yet. I don't know if I should invert the data or not, which control lines to use in what configuration, setup of the PC serial port....etc. yet. The monitor has only Ground, +5, Rxd and Txd on the interface connector. Note: Do not connect Rxs and Txd from PC serial port directly to the Rxd and Txd of the monitor. Voltage levels are different.
  • TheSmJTheSmJ Farmington Hills (Metro Detroit)
    edited Dec 2004
    Do you have an ociliscope? I've found them VERY usefull with building cables and the like without actually having the schematics (but a basic understanding of what I needed to go where). Too bad I haven't had access to one since highschool. :(
  • edited Jan 2005
    I have a Compaq p1100 that I got off Ebay for cheap and had the same problem too bright . Did the resistor mod first using the 4.7 mohm but was too dark, changed them out for 6.8 Mohms and results were spectacular, striking brilliant and vibrant colors. The monitor is now a pleasure to use. Greatly appreciate the advice. This job took only about 20 minutes once we figured out how to get into the case.
  • edited Jan 2005
    WOW
    I love the internet ... I was given a Sony G500 a year ago and set up my old Sony 420GS on a second computer. I have always had to keep the G500's brightness at 0 and then also lower the brightness on my video card settings in order to use it and take advantage of the 21 inch screen. Unfortunately my video games have never looked good.

    A friend came by and we played some cooperative Quake2 for old times sake and I just could not believe how much better his game looked on my old 420GS. I decided to search the web about the problem and found this fantastic thread.

    1. The Sony DAS software calibration mentioned in previous post's sounds out of reach with all the special equipment needed etc.

    2. I am getting ready to try the resistor change mentioned in several posts.

    3. But before I do, I would love to be able to get into a Service mode if such a mode exists for the Sony G500 and make adjustments there. One post mentioned such a mode on the Dell version of this monitor but no one has confirmed being able to replicate his method. Has anyone been able to access a "Service Menu" on a Sony G500?

    Many Thanks
    RWS
  • edited Jan 2005
    I am going to buy the G500 service manual from a place online and see if there is Service Mode I can get into.

    By the way ... if you are looking for another of these monitors I found a place that has several versions at good prices ...

    http://www.azatek.com/pricelist.asp?CID=59
  • edited Jan 2005
    WOW!

    I am typing this post on my newly-fixed monitor. It looks great! This monitor hasn't seen real, honest-to-god dark colors in years. I'm really impressed.

    I soldered a 10M ohm resistor in parallel with the existing one, which turned out to be perfect for me.

    Getting the plastic cover off the monitor was BY FAR the most difficult part of this procedure. The tabs at the top are a real bitch, and frankly I don't see how you can remove the cover without breaking them unless you have some sort of special tool. Thankfully, breaking them is no big deal, and the cover stays securely fastened without them (albeit much easier to remove once you take out the screws). Don't bother sticking a screwdriver in there, all I accomplished by doing that was tearing up the outer plastic.

    The solder process was very easy, and I've never even soldered before. There are no other components close to the area in question on the board, so it's pretty much impossible to screw up.

    The brightness on my monitor still goes down after it's had a chance to "warm up", so make sure you take that into account when you calibrate if yours does also.

    Thanks so much to whoever posted this excellent fix! :thumbsup:

    (By the way, I ordered the resistors from circuitspecialists.com. They had the right stuff for cheap, but shipping cost a fortune.)
  • edited Jan 2005
    gravix said:

    The brightness on my monitor still goes down after it's had a chance to "warm up", so make sure you take that into account when you calibrate if yours does also.
    very good point

    i think it has been mentioned b4 up here but it bears repeating - don't be bummed if you make the mod and your monitor still looks all washed out after you first power up!! give it a few minutes

    mine still looks horrible for the first 2 or 3 minutes b4 it starts to "settle down"

    - jon -
  • ShivianShivian Australia
    edited Jan 2005
    TheSmJ said:
    P.S.: "Colour", Thrax? What the hell are they teaching you over there at EMU?
    How to spell obviously :p

    Ps very useful info! :D
    I'll definitely store this in the ol' memory banks for future reference.
  • edited Jan 2005
    What is the best (overall cheapest) source for this golden egg of a resistor? It looks like RS supply only goes to 1M ohm. I get stuff from Ocean State Electronics (www.oselectronics.com), they have it for .20, but you have to bring your order over $10, which is easy, they have alot of neat stuff dirt cheap. I'd rather end up with yet another multimeter for $9.99 than 1,000 resistors....
  • TheSmJTheSmJ Farmington Hills (Metro Detroit)
    edited Jan 2005
    Jameco.com is another company I use. Not sure if there's a minimum order though.

    Otherwise, get a new multimeter and a .20 resistor?
  • edited Jan 2005
    darkscion0 said:

    After I put the 5.6M resistor on the monitor, it was really dark, but now the monitor is fairly light again. The weird thing is, that my brightness controls are backwards now. When I turn down the brightness, the monitor gets brighter? Any ideas?
    ---
    More details on my funky brightness controls. When you turn it up from 0 to 30 it gets brighter, then after that, the more you turn it up the darker it gets.

    Any help would be appreciated.
    I was wondering if anyone has found an answer to darkscion0's question.

    I recently repaired my year 2000 Sony G500 by adding a 10MOhm resistor, and it worked great. The picture looks great, but I have the same situation where the brightness controls are funky, same as darkscion0's scenario.

    If I leave it at around 50 brightness, it looks great, but I'd really like to know if there is a way to get the brightness control working like it used to.

    After I soldered in the resistor, turned it on, and let it warm up, I did the "Image Restoration" under the "Easy" tab in the "color" menu. (Unfortunately, I didn't notice if the brightness control problem existed before I activated the restoration (but after the solder), and I haven't tried the "restoration" in the sRGB tab yet.)

    Anyway, I am very happy with the image results, but I'd love to have a normal brightness control.

    Any ideas?
  • edited Jan 2005
    I received the Service Manual for the Sony G500 and unfortunately the only "service mode" is using the DAS software mentioned before with a special cable to connect to the monitor.

    So it looks like I need to do the resistor fix. I will note to see if my brightness works correct before and after I do the fix, as per the previous post.

    The manual cost me $20 and is a 5 meg pdf file.

    If anyone wants a copy, send me an email with an offer to help cover a share of the initial cost.

    thanks
    rws70
  • edited Jan 2005
    thewick said:
    I recently repaired my year 2000 Sony G500 by adding a 10MOhm resistor, and it worked great. The picture looks great, but I have the same situation where the brightness controls are funky, same as darkscion0's scenario.

    If I leave it at around 50 brightness, it looks great, but I'd really like to know if there is a way to get the brightness control working like it used to.
    At a desktop resolution, (1600x1200) my brightness control now actually seems to alter the color temperature: down is redder (lower temp) and up is bluer (higher temp). 50 is where I keep it set. Contrast works as expected. At gaming resolutions (800x600, 1024x768) the brightness control seems to work correctly and a lower brightness (20-35 or thereabouts) is required to create an adequate black level. Bizzare I know, but strange things are to be expected when modifying complicated control circuitry.

    One solution to the brightness control problem might entail soldering a potentiometer (variable resistor) in place of the R459 resistor that we replaced. Brightness could then be adjusted using the potentiometer knob on the rear of the monitor. However, I suspect that without a major circuit redesign or access to the Sony interface software the on-screen brightness control will be unrepairable. Because of the added resistor, it is operating completely out of the range it was designed for and unpredictable behavior is to be expected. If you really need a working brightness control, buying a new monitor may be the best alternative.

    All that said, I'm still VERY happy I modded my monitor. It calibrates quite well using a brightness setting of 50.
  • TheSmJTheSmJ Farmington Hills (Metro Detroit)
    edited Jan 2005
    Changing the color levels on the OSD might be the best/only option to fix the funny tints you guys are having.
  • edited Jan 2005
    Hello,

    I also have a C500 with similar wasted out screen problems. My monitor tends to lean on the green side, the screen is covers with a fine green tint, I can almost eliminate this by playing with the GBia and all but then the screen is to wasted out, so I decided to try the resistor fix.

    I have a question about the "image restoration" in easy or sRGB mode. When
    I select either of these the screen cycles thru bunch of colors mostly shades of white and the then the screen goes black and the light flashes. I then have to power cycle it, even after waiting 15 minutes. Is this normal?

    I have some resistors on order so wil try the fix when I get them but wanted to see if my monitor is to far gone to expect any good results.
  • edited Jan 2005
    Ocean State Electronics has all the equipment you will need and it is an easy site to navigate.

    Here is the page for the resistors:
    http://www.oselectronics.com/ose_p70.htm#1/2W%20Carbon%20Film

    ... you need to scroll down to the 1.1M OHMS TO 20M OHMS section as
    per Hutzelman's instructions on this web page:
    http://www.hutzelman.com/home/hardware/mods/monitor/

    Here is the page for a soldering iron and solder:
    http://www.oselectronics.com/ose_p61.htm

    Minimum order is $10.
  • edited Jan 2005
    john chiodo said:
    Hello,

    I have a question about the "image restoration" in easy or sRGB mode. When
    I select either of these the screen cycles thru bunch of colors mostly shades of white and the then the screen goes black and the light flashes. I then have to power cycle it, even after waiting 15 minutes. Is this normal?
    No. On my monitor, image restoration takes about 30 seconds, and then returns to the VGA picture. Sounds like yours has even more problems! Sorry... :(
  • edited Jan 2005
    bummer, I am going to try the resistor fix anyways. I should
    get them in a few days.

    I will post my results....

    gravix said:
    No. On my monitor, image restoration takes about 30 seconds, and then returns to the VGA picture. Sounds like yours has even more problems! Sorry... :(
  • edited Jan 2005
    SUCCESS! As a gamer, I can't say how happy I am to have the normal brightness restored to this Sony CDP-G500. As I mentioned before when I was given this monitor I was immediately disappointed in the lack of vibrant color I was accustomed to with my old 19 inch Sony 420GS. I was torn between a larger screen and good color.

    Now I have both. The colors are fantastic again.

    I used a 6.8M Ohm - 1/2 watt resistor. I could not get to the old resistor to clip it free so I had to heat up the solder points while I slipped a small flat screw driver tip between the old resistor and the circuit board and pried the old resistor completely off. Then I soldiered the new one on. I also took a sharp knife and scraped the green circuit board between the adjacent contacts for R457 and R459 (see screenshot) to make sure I had not created a connection between the two during my work on R459. (note the screen shot is from the web page that shows you how to do this:
    http://www.hutzelman.com/home/hardware/mods/monitor/ )

    image

    This was not difficult ... I am not a big electronics guy ... don't be intimidated by soldiering or taking off the back of the Monitor. You can find parts and equipment at a local electronics store or check my earlier post for links.

    I did not lose any brightness control functionality ... still goes from 0 to 100. My current setting is about 57. I used to have it set at 0 and that was too bright. I did not do any resets after the fix ... just turned up the brightness.

    For those who lost some brightness control, is there a chance that when you soldiered R459 you accidentally made a connection between R459 and R457? Or perhaps the lower Ohm rating (lower than 6.8M) had something to do with it.

    Thanks to all who contributed to this topic.

    R.

    PS. I have a Sony G400 ( CDP-G400 ) with the same brightness problem at work ... tempted to try fixing it over the week end or at least open it up and see if the inards are the same .
  • edited Jan 2005
    I have the same problem here too! I got this from a mate who brought it second hand but when he got it home it was way too bright .. Anyways he soldered that resistor on but no gets just a black screen..anyone got any ideas?

    Also is there meant to be anything soldered from GND to G2?

    Thanks,
    Mike
    [email]badfan@orcon.net.nz[/email]
  • edited Jan 2005
    Hi Guys. I too have the same problem where my G500 is too bright. But i have a second problem where the green cast is way too high as well. I actually have to have my Green set to 0 to get rid of it, but it still seems to be there. I don't remember it being there when i first bought it.

    My Image Restoration isn't working either. I have the same problem as you john chiodo. Monitor turns off and i actually have to unplug it to get it to turn on as the light just keeps blinking orange.

    Will the resistor fix the green cast problem or is this another issue with this monitor that requires another fix?

    I'm really upset about all this since the monitor is actually unreal and physically looks great too, unlike the G520 which to me is cheap looking. Upgrading to an LCD is also not an option atm as picture quality too me is a number one priority and they have yet to catch up to CRT.

    Bottom line is i'd really like to get this monitor working the way it's supposed to :(
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