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DELL P1110 monitor too bright

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Comments

  • edited Jan 2010
    Alidor wrote:
    Awesome monitor. Though I've had to lower the G2 voltage twice.
    I have one that has started to do the same thing. It won't turn on when it is 'cold'. I have to run a blow dryer into the lower right side for about 30 seconds before it'll turn on. If I *leave* it on, it's fine. I can even turn it off for a few minutes at a time without problems. But if it cools down too much, it behaves exactly as you describe - the power light goes green then turns to orange flashing standby. I hear there's a warmup circuit in these things. Maybe it's getting tired...

    Anyway, good luck if you try the blow dryer.

    No dice, heated it up for like 4 mins and the tube still didn't initialize. The whole thing seemed pretty warm all over but nothing.
  • LeonardoLeonardo Eagle River, Alaska Icrontian
    edited Jan 2010
    DJ, although I too think it's fun to tinker with computer components, why waste your time on ancient CRT monitors? Wouldn't it be so much easier to just toss it out (recycle, if your local area has that capability) and replace it? If you are on a tight budget (like zero moneyJ), you can get about as many CRTs as you want for free. Keep the ones that work and simply dispose of those that are broken. Look on Craigslist and find people looking for someone to come take theirs away.
  • edited Jan 2010
    Leonardo wrote:
    DJ, although I too think it's fun to tinker with computer components, why waste your time on ancient CRT monitors? Wouldn't it be so much easier to just toss it out (recycle, if your local area has that capability) and replace it? If you are on a tight budget (like zero moneyJ), you can get about as many CRTs as you want for free. Keep the ones that work and simply dispose of those that are broken. Look on Craigslist and find people looking for someone to come take theirs away.

    A quick fix would be handy but I'm not gonna invest in lots of efforts. Honestly it's not about budget, heck I Have two of these P1110's I just lost the luxury of having dual monitors for now. I'm trying to locate another P1110 or failing that a P991. Honestly, these are probably the second best CRT monitors that were ever on the consumer market. They also make Dreamcast games look AWESOME over the VGA cable. You can't get things like these new.

    I could get lots of crappy CRTs but if I'm putting 70lbs of leaded glass on my desk, I want a Trinitron tube. :3
  • edited Mar 2010
    Hi My first post here.

    It appears that my Dell P1130 monitor problem might be fixed with a resistor swap, but the link mentioned in the following post from 2007 no longer works. (Was doing a google search to see if I could fix the monitor problem before replacement.)

    I am a full time professional futures trader and run a desktop with 6 monitors. Prefer CRTs to LCDs. I have 2 monitors that are getting old and now display diagonal light gray/white lines running from lower left to upper right about 3 cm apart. These monitors have also lost the sharpness of the black and are no longer crisp like they use to be. (Difficult to read fine text and white backgrounds are "dirty".)

    Does this sound like the problem that could be solved with this resistor swap mentioned below? I am handy with tools and can usually figure things out if I have instructions to work with. Any help with this would be greatly appreciated.

    Thank you!

    Dan


    To all: (((Especially those who did resistor swap and still got too dark of results not matter what))))

    I ran into 3 situations along the way...

    First... The link to the Hutzelman website everyone kept linking that ended in /monitor... does not work for me...

    http://www.hutzelman.com/web/pages/h.../mods/SonyCRT/

    There you go, has the layout for the p1110 in there...

    Second... The 457 and 459 are really close to each other. I have 2 other buddies with this monitor... They bought it back in 2002? I think... On the same day... some sale. 1 of them did a parallel 10 ohm to the 457... The 457 runs under the board like the 459 does before you cut it... He ran another 10ohm on top of the board to the 457 points making it a 5ohm in all connection I believe... Or close to it. Also these 2 points being very close makes it very easy to make a mistake or accidentally drag your soldering puddle and connect the 457 and the 459. I did this... and then remelted the 459 and with a knife ever soo carefully(not the cut or destroy the circuit that ran on the board between 457 & 459) separated the 2 again.


    ---I read a couple of posts where people thought they may have connected the 457 and 459 points and couldn't get out of the too dark phase at all... This is a situation I ran into... Or so I thought.......



    Lastly, My final BIG mistake... The 1 that made it or broke it... When you go out shopping for these resistors... make SURE it's a M resistor... On my set up and my other buddies set up... We both bought 5.6ohm 1w resistors.. Neither worked for either of us. So I bought 5.2ohm, 6.2, 6.8. 9.1, 7.2, 7.8?,10, 11.2? and many more up to 15... and as low as a 4.7. All 1 watt resistors too... ALL gave me too dark results. Either WAY too dark so that all settings/colors on full blast wouldn't hardly give me an image... Or just too dark giving me a brown tint on everything while all settings were turned up. I couldn't figure it out...

    I was soo close to trashing this beast... Sure that I probly connected or over burned 2 points with the soldering iron...

    Until... I returned to my local computer hardware store... I found out there was actually 2 sections of carbon film resistors... I looked at the resistor stripes and noticed they were different... Began reading and OH NO I didn't buy the M resistors... I bought 2 of each all the way from 4.7 to 9.1. ALL 1watt and ALL M RESISTORS. I returned home, sure I had the fix now. And sure enough, I was correct. My first and final attempt was a 5.6Mohm 1 watt carbon film resistors (also important to get a carbon film and not a metal film or whatever b/c it'll send out some signal or radiation crap). This could also be marked as a 5M6 ohm 1 watt... I use a 1 watt b/c I hear that a few years down the road I'd just be replacing the 1/2 watt or the 1/4 watt if I were to choose one...

    The 5M6ohm works GREAT, contrast/brightness are at 50/50 and I no longer have to use my nVidia settings... It's amazing. My buddies monitors had went out about the same time within a month of each other... And my boss gave me my p1110 and it already had the brightness issue... The resistors at the store me and my friends shopped at costs me like 4cents each resistor... 100 resistors for like 4$.... A free monitor that was several hundred dollars... now 4 cents... Amazing. Me and the guys all stumbled into the M resistor problem... Even when my friend ran his parallel to p457. We didn't share our results till the end seeing how I guess it turned out to be a challenge to see who could fix it right and the fastest way... In the end we were all fools... But successful fools.



    I have never soldered anything in my life until recently... It's fun. I'd take the job in soldering if I hadn't already had a good internet job.

    The software fix... Way too complicated, find the software... the links most of you listed don't work, splice the cables... set the monitor to the right adjustments... Ugh... Too much to worry about.

    With the resistor fix just disassemble the monitor, remove the old resistor, solder in new (easy/fun), remount case, play/enjoy. 10 minute deal.

    A few precautions to worry about. Don't go disassembling the WHOLE monitor. Many pieces actually hold a charge and can/WILL kill you if you touch them. I touched all over the board where the 457/459 are and nothing jolted me. Maybe I was lucky...



    http://www.hutzelman.com/web/pages/h.../mods/SonyCRT/


    Follow these instructions... VERY easy, and I guarantee everyone has a hardware store or warehouse around you that carries resistors... Everything needs em. Radios, TVs, computers... toasters now even... etc. No need to worry about ordering them online, just google some resistor retailers in your area... I did. And GREAT SUCCESS!!!

    psychoninja911@yahoo.com is my email address so email me if you got anymore questions I should be able to help

    Until next time...

    --CHRIS!!! ;)[/quote]
  • edited Mar 2010
    DanT wrote:
    Hi My first post here.

    It appears that my Dell P1130 monitor problem might be fixed with a resistor swap, but the link mentioned in the following post from 2007 no longer works. (Was doing a google search to see if I could fix the monitor problem rather than replacement.)

    I am a full time professional futures trader and run a desktop with 6 monitors. Prefer CRTs to LCDs. I have 2 monitors that have started to display diagonal light gray/white lines running from lower left to upper right about 3 cm apart. These monitors have also lost the sharpness of the black and are no longer crisp like they use to be... and are getting worse over time. (Difficult to read fine text and white backgrounds are "dirty".)

    Does this sound like the problem that could be solved with this resistor swap mentioned below? I am handy with tools and can usually figure things out if I have instructions to work with. Any help with this would be greatly appreciated.

    Thank you!

    Dan


    To all: (((Especially those who did resistor swap and still got too dark of results not matter what))))

    I ran into 3 situations along the way...

    First... The link to the Hutzelman website everyone kept linking that ended in /monitor... does not work for me...

    http://www.hutzelman.com/web/pages/h.../mods/SonyCRT/

    There you go, has the layout for the p1110 in there...

    Second... The 457 and 459 are really close to each other. I have 2 other buddies with this monitor... They bought it back in 2002? I think... On the same day... some sale. 1 of them did a parallel 10 ohm to the 457... The 457 runs under the board like the 459 does before you cut it... He ran another 10ohm on top of the board to the 457 points making it a 5ohm in all connection I believe... Or close to it. Also these 2 points being very close makes it very easy to make a mistake or accidentally drag your soldering puddle and connect the 457 and the 459. I did this... and then remelted the 459 and with a knife ever soo carefully(not the cut or destroy the circuit that ran on the board between 457 & 459) separated the 2 again.


    ---I read a couple of posts where people thought they may have connected the 457 and 459 points and couldn't get out of the too dark phase at all... This is a situation I ran into... Or so I thought.......



    Lastly, My final BIG mistake... The 1 that made it or broke it... When you go out shopping for these resistors... make SURE it's a M resistor... On my set up and my other buddies set up... We both bought 5.6ohm 1w resistors.. Neither worked for either of us. So I bought 5.2ohm, 6.2, 6.8. 9.1, 7.2, 7.8?,10, 11.2? and many more up to 15... and as low as a 4.7. All 1 watt resistors too... ALL gave me too dark results. Either WAY too dark so that all settings/colors on full blast wouldn't hardly give me an image... Or just too dark giving me a brown tint on everything while all settings were turned up. I couldn't figure it out...

    I was soo close to trashing this beast... Sure that I probly connected or over burned 2 points with the soldering iron...

    Until... I returned to my local computer hardware store... I found out there was actually 2 sections of carbon film resistors... I looked at the resistor stripes and noticed they were different... Began reading and OH NO I didn't buy the M resistors... I bought 2 of each all the way from 4.7 to 9.1. ALL 1watt and ALL M RESISTORS. I returned home, sure I had the fix now. And sure enough, I was correct. My first and final attempt was a 5.6Mohm 1 watt carbon film resistors (also important to get a carbon film and not a metal film or whatever b/c it'll send out some signal or radiation crap). This could also be marked as a 5M6 ohm 1 watt... I use a 1 watt b/c I hear that a few years down the road I'd just be replacing the 1/2 watt or the 1/4 watt if I were to choose one...

    The 5M6ohm works GREAT, contrast/brightness are at 50/50 and I no longer have to use my nVidia settings... It's amazing. My buddies monitors had went out about the same time within a month of each other... And my boss gave me my p1110 and it already had the brightness issue... The resistors at the store me and my friends shopped at costs me like 4cents each resistor... 100 resistors for like 4$.... A free monitor that was several hundred dollars... now 4 cents... Amazing. Me and the guys all stumbled into the M resistor problem... Even when my friend ran his parallel to p457. We didn't share our results till the end seeing how I guess it turned out to be a challenge to see who could fix it right and the fastest way... In the end we were all fools... But successful fools.



    I have never soldered anything in my life until recently... It's fun. I'd take the job in soldering if I hadn't already had a good internet job.

    The software fix... Way too complicated, find the software... the links most of you listed don't work, splice the cables... set the monitor to the right adjustments... Ugh... Too much to worry about.

    With the resistor fix just disassemble the monitor, remove the old resistor, solder in new (easy/fun), remount case, play/enjoy. 10 minute deal.

    A few precautions to worry about. Don't go disassembling the WHOLE monitor. Many pieces actually hold a charge and can/WILL kill you if you touch them. I touched all over the board where the 457/459 are and nothing jolted me. Maybe I was lucky...



    http://www.hutzelman.com/web/pages/h.../mods/SonyCRT/


    Follow these instructions... VERY easy, and I guarantee everyone has a hardware store or warehouse around you that carries resistors... Everything needs em. Radios, TVs, computers... toasters now even... etc. No need to worry about ordering them online, just google some resistor retailers in your area... I did. And GREAT SUCCESS!!!

    psychoninja911@yahoo.com is my email address so email me if you got anymore questions I should be able to help

    Until next time...

    --CHRIS!!! ;)
    [/quote]
  • edited Mar 2010
    I set the brightness down on both of these P1130 monitors. Was psyched to see that this essentially fixed the problem on one of them (went down from 60, where it had been set for years, to 20).

    The other one is much better, but not good enough yet. The brightness setting was at 20. I went down to 0 but cannot go any further... though if I could I suspect that it would help.

    Given this additional information, does this sound like a problem that a reistor replacement would resolove... to essentially allow me to go lower on the birghtness setting?

    Interesting to see that the diagonal lines have vitually disappeared from the first monitor just by setting the bightness down to 20. These diagonal lines are still present on the other monitor, though less pronounced.

    Thanks for any advice on this...

    Dan
  • edited Apr 2010
    Can someone please help me get WinDAS working with my FW-9011? I'm running WinDAS in XP mode under Win7.

    I attach this cable (http://techref.massmind.org/techref/io/serial/rlc2.htm) as shown

    ecs2.png

    The motherboard I am using is an Asus M2N32-Sli Deluxe. I have the serial port set to auto in the BIOS.

    I choose the model of my monitor in WinDAS. I configure WinDAS to use COM1 as the ECS Port and I set SG to MANUAL.

    Whenever I click "Save data to file", there is a five second pause, then an error pops up saying "Can't connect the monitor! Check Bus line and condition!"

    Any and all help is appreciated.
  • edited Apr 2010
    Help me. Lay out on rapidshare worker Windas,please.I Am sorry for my bad English.
  • edited Apr 2010
    innocenceisdeath
    <CITE class=ic-username></CITE>
    <CITE class=ic-username>Check up Converter ECS in a DB9.
    Pinouts:

    DSUBx9 (PC)
    RxD 2
    14 (MAX232)
    TxD 3
    13 (MAX232)
    GND 5
    GND 15 (MAX232)

    ECS (PORT)
    GND 1
    GND 15 (MAX232)
    +5V 2
    16 (MAX232)
    RxD 3
    12 (MAX232)
    TxD 4
    11 (MAX232)

    I Am sorry for my bad English. <!-- / message --><!-- attachments --><!-- / attachments --><!-- sig --><!-- / sig --></CITE>
  • edited Apr 2010
    Also pay attention to the scheme{plan} of inclusion of a microcircuit:
    max232.JPG 154.4K
  • hachirokuhachiroku Western Mass
    edited Jun 2010
    OK> I bought a Dell P1110 21" Trinitron for $50 about 2 years ago, had it for a few months before setting it up and...too bright (surprise!). I was given a P991 that works great so I have been using that for about a year, but when I got my nVidia (ASUS) video card I saw the adjustements and thought I could make enough tweaks to make the P1110 work. Close, but not quite. A couple years ago I was looking for a repair place to fix the thing and ran across the resistor/DAS hacks to make it work. I mean, almost 20 years as a tech, should be easy. Couldn't get the cover off. So, for most of it's life with me it has sat on a shelf.

    I ordered the cable mentioned in the posts from massmind, and found some tutorials, and the software (about 3 versions of it...) all yesterday, and am waiting impatiently for the cable to get here.

    A lot of thread readin and googling turns up geocities/gregua/windas, which is now a broken link. I am trying to find what else I can tweak with DAS, like convergence, color, etc. Of course I want to get the brightness back to a usable level first. There is a fair amount of info on that; you have to hunt a bit but you can find it. But any other tweaks aren't there to find. I'm also seeing some posts saying the massmind cable doesn't work! I plan on doing this as soon as the cable gets here, any advice, good links, etc appreciated!

    This appears to be a really GOOD monitor, except for the brightness issue. I do photo work, so having a big, bright screen is a must; modern LCDs are just getting to the point of a mediocre CRT where that's concerned, but they are $$$$.

    Thanks, from a n00b!
  • hachirokuhachiroku Western Mass
    edited Jun 2010
    Can someone please help me get WinDAS working with my FW-9011? I'm running WinDAS in XP mode under Win7.

    Whenever I click "Save data to file", there is a five second pause, then an error pops up saying "Can't connect the monitor! Check Bus line and condition!"

    Any and all help is appreciated.


    I see this is a couple months old now, have you had any success?

    I noticed on Massmind's webpage it says "CTS may have to be shorted to RTS on some models" and "RTS may need to be shorted to CTS on some models"

    If needed, the old paperclip jumper may be required!
  • edited Jun 2010
    hachiroku wrote:
    I see this is a couple months old now, have you had any success?

    I noticed on Massmind's webpage it says "CTS may have to be shorted to RTS on some models" and "RTS may need to be shorted to CTS on some models"

    If needed, the old paperclip jumper may be required!
    Unfortunately not, I have not actually had access to this monitor since the response. I shall be able to try again though come the weekend :) I'll keep the paperclip jumper solution in mind ;)

    Did you have any luck with your cable?
  • hachirokuhachiroku Western Mass
    edited Jun 2010
    Unfortunately not, I have not actually had access to this monitor since the response. I shall be able to try again though come the weekend :) I'll keep the paperclip jumper solution in mind ;)

    Did you have any luck with your cable?


    Well.....

    It took a LOT of fanagling, and I had to swap the red and yellow wires on the monitor end of the connector, and I had to plug...unplug...plug...unplug...on about the 15th try I clicked to save the settings and WHAM! Up came a location box to save the files! I saved the original parameters, but, instead of following instructions I went into the ADJUSTMENT menu and adjusted a LOT of things! Pincushioning, brightness, convergence, tint, everything!

    SO, then I removed the cable, and went to push the MENU button on the monitor, and got a little green key on the left lower side of the screen. The OSD Menu is LOCKED and cannot be unlocked!!!!

    THe monitor is much better, it's not as bright and I have been using the nVidia settings to adjust it, but I need to get to the OSD to fine tune it.

    After about 25 more attempts to connect and change the OSD lock, I finally gave up. I had to lower the resolution of the screen a bit, and the colors are a bit funky (the OSD menu could prbably FIX this! >:( ), but it is better than it was.

    I guess it's just an old, old monitor, but I *LIKE* CRTs....

    I'll try fiddling around with it again this weekend. I know I had to change the port setting on the laptop, and change it back, and change it again, so I think I'll try another laptop and see if I can reconnect.
  • edited Jun 2010
    hachiroku wrote:
    Well.....

    It took a LOT of fanagling, and I had to swap the red and yellow wires on the monitor end of the connector, and I had to plug...unplug...plug...unplug...on about the 15th try I clicked to save the settings and WHAM! Up came a location box to save the files! I saved the original parameters, but, instead of following instructions I went into the ADJUSTMENT menu and adjusted a LOT of things! Pincushioning, brightness, convergence, tint, everything!

    SO, then I removed the cable, and went to push the MENU button on the monitor, and got a little green key on the left lower side of the screen. The OSD Menu is LOCKED and cannot be unlocked!!!!

    THe monitor is much better, it's not as bright and I have been using the nVidia settings to adjust it, but I need to get to the OSD to fine tune it.

    After about 25 more attempts to connect and change the OSD lock, I finally gave up. I had to lower the resolution of the screen a bit, and the colors are a bit funky (the OSD menu could prbably FIX this! >:( ), but it is better than it was.

    I guess it's just an old, old monitor, but I *LIKE* CRTs....

    I'll try fiddling around with it again this weekend. I know I had to change the port setting on the laptop, and change it back, and change it again, so I think I'll try another laptop and see if I can reconnect.

    Oh man, that sounds rough. Lots of people have had their OSDs locked. I think most of them can fix it though :) I can't remember how they do it. I'll see if I can find it for you.

    Here you go:
    The OSD "locks-up" when the user fails to "save" the calibration/adjustment setting BEFORE exiting WinDAS. What you need to do is to start WinDAS, making absolutely sure the the probe is correctly connected to the maintenance port of the monitor and that the GDM-FW900 is selected from the "Set up" "Model Select" menu pull-down; then go to "Adjustment", then to "Procedure", then to "Final Settings", then it saves the current data, then Exit. Once you do that, then the OSD will be "unlocked".
  • hachirokuhachiroku Western Mass
    edited Jun 2010
    Oh man, that sounds rough. Lots of people have had their OSDs locked. I think most of them can fix it though :) I can't remember how they do it. I'll see if I can find it for you.

    Here you go:


    Thanks. But I can't get it to communicate anymore. Don't know if it's the chip, the connector in the monitor, or??? I thought I saved the config, but I guess not.

    If I had known this was a Sony, I never would have bought it.I knew it was a Trinitron screen, but a lot of manufacturers were using them. My previous experience with Sony has not been good, and once something is off the shelf they don't even want to talk about it any more. Either that, or repair prices are just shy of a new unit.


    If I can get the darn thing to talk again, I'll try it.
  • edited Jun 2010
    Hi

    I'm having a lot of trouble trying to connect my p1110 to my computer. I have windas installed, using xp pro 32 and i have brought this cable. I am connecting the monitor with the facing the celling and the others going down from there. My PCI serial card is connected correctly and all set up. Everything should be a go right? What's the issue? If i select a serial port my computer does not have the program gives the error message right away. So its finding the serial ports, because when I select the correct port it takes about 5 seconds for the error message to come up.
  • hachirokuhachiroku Western Mass
    edited Jul 2010
    jkmetal wrote:
    Hi

    I'm having a lot of trouble trying to connect my p1110 to my computer. I have windas installed, using xp pro 32 and i have brought this cable. I am connecting the monitor with the facing the celling and the others going down from there. My PCI serial card is connected correctly and all set up. Everything should be a go right? What's the issue? If i select a serial port my computer does not have the program gives the error message right away. So its finding the serial ports, because when I select the correct port it takes about 5 seconds for the error message to come up.


    It took a long time to get mine to connect, and unfortunately the wires broke off the PCB inside the headshell! Luckily, the guy will send me another one whan I send mine back.

    I have resolved the issue in the meantime, however. I am a Dell field technician, and have a lot of colleges in my territory. I went to service a laptop, and there was another Dell 21" in a recycle bin. I asked the guy what was up with it, and he said it was sitting on the floor and the building flooded, so they brought it in and put it in the bin. I took it into his shop, we hooked up a monitor tester, and...it worked perfect! It's not a true flat screen like the other one, but it is beautiful nonetheless!

    That's the easy way. I do want to get my flat screen working since I was so close, but I need to get the other cable.

    Did you swap the red and yellow wires? Also, did you try jumpering pin 5 RTS to pin 6 CTS? It seems to me that when I did those two things it started communicating with the monitor. I think the rest of my troubles were caused by the broken wire(s).

    When I get the new cable I'll try again. I really like that flat screen!
  • edited Jul 2010
    Hello, what an awesome forum and thread!

    I have a few questions regarding a Dell/Sony P922. I bought it at a thrift store for $.25 and of course it has the bright screen problem.
    I was looking through the thread and I've decided the best bet would probably be the resistor swap. for which I have a few questions. 1) can someone please give me the ratting I should use for a single replacement as to avoid soldering in parallel as I'm not that confident at soldering!
    2) any tips on where to buy them in America would be great...

    Thank You
  • edited Jul 2010
    wahwah70 wrote:
    Hello, what an awesome forum and thread!

    I have a few questions regarding a Dell/Sony P922. I bought it at a thrift store for $.25 and of course it has the bright screen problem.
    I was looking through the thread and I've decided the best bet would probably be the resistor swap. for which I have a few questions. 1) can someone please give me the ratting I should use for a single replacement as to avoid soldering in parallel as I'm not that confident at soldering!
    2) any tips on where to buy them in America would be great...

    Thank You

    Hopefully this will help the next guy. I bought a 15 Mohms and clipped off the old resister leaving enough to soldered the 15 Mohms to the remaining ends(of the one I clipped off...) Worked like a charm. No more red lines and the black is actually black and not gray... Thanks to ever thought of this mod!!!:rockon:" alt=":rockon:" />
  • DAOWAceDAOWAce US East
    edited Oct 2010
    Quickly typing this out after spending a few hours trying to get this to work.

    Got a P1130 for cheap, turns out it had the brightness problem.

    Bought this thing: http://www.geeetech.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=39&products_id=156 Waited 2 weeks for it to ship to me.

    It get here today, I mess with it, nothing. "check bus blah blah"

    I did manage to get it to see something was attached, but it spewed ECS errors since it wasn't connected right.

    I have tried multiple different connection setups and just can't see why it won't work. I'm starting to think I bought the wrong accessory for this job. Can anyone advise?
  • edited Oct 2010
    DAOWAce wrote:
    Quickly typing this out after spending a few hours trying to get this to work.

    Got a P1130 for cheap, turns out it had the brightness problem.

    Bought this thing: http://www.geeetech.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=39&products_id=156 Waited 2 weeks for it to ship to me.

    It get here today, I mess with it, nothing. "check bus blah blah"

    I did manage to get it to see something was attached, but it spewed ECS errors since it wasn't connected right.

    I have tried multiple different connection setups and just can't see why it won't work. I'm starting to think I bought the wrong accessory for this job. Can anyone advise?


    Hi, its nice to see new people still having a go at this.

    Have you set the COM port in the BIOS setup (COM1 or COM2 - as the case may be). Thats one of the gotchas that initially caught me out.

    Anyway, keep trying, someone has probably answered your question in this massive thread.
  • DAOWAceDAOWAce US East
    edited Oct 2010
    Have you set the COM port in the BIOS setup (COM1 or COM2 - as the case may be). Thats one of the gotchas that initially caught me out.
    I'm not sure what you mean? The PC has 2 serial ports, both are enabled and working in windows. Regardless, I'll check the BIOS anyway to see if there's any more settings.

    It may be possible someone provided a post regarding something like this, but I can't find the time to sit through reading all these posts. I've been here and there, have 6 different bookmarks to certain pages or posts on this thread, but it's just too much.

    I still believe I purchased the wrong connector even though it should be compatible.
  • edited Oct 2010
    Hey, I tried to go to the link mentioned much earlier in this thread www.geocities.com. Yahoo apparently shut it down. Do you know where else I can download it?
  • edited Oct 2010
    DAOWAce wrote:
    Thanks for the link, however I was getting the "no .mdl files" message and found out the library file "Msflxgrd.ocx" was missing and I found a place to download it. After I downloaded it there were instructions on the website to run the following command for Windows XP:

    regsvr32 \windows\system32\Msflxgrd.ocx


    I did this and instead of getting the "DllRegisterServer ... succeeded" message I am getting a message that says "\windows\system32\Msflxgrd.ocx" is not an executable file and no registration helper is registered for this file type."

    You know how to fix?
  • edited Oct 2010
    Thanks for the link, however I was getting the "no .mdl files" message and found out the library file "Msflxgrd.ocx" was missing and I found a place to download it. After I downloaded it there were instructions on the website to run the following command for Windows XP:

    regsvr32 \windows\system32\Msflxgrd.ocx


    I did this and instead of getting the "DllRegisterServer ... succeeded" message I am getting a message that says "\windows\system32\Msflxgrd.ocx" is not an executable file and no registration helper is registered for this file type."

    You know how to fix?
    Never mind it was the wrong file I downloaded
  • DAOWAceDAOWAce US East
    edited Oct 2010
    Well, just tried things again nearly a month later. Somehow, worked the first try.

    Now I just need to find those guides I had saved..

    Edit: Or I could somehow OSD lock it.

    Anyone know how to unlock the OSD on the P1130? I have no idea what would've caused it.
  • edited Oct 2010
    Just received my cable today, however I need to know what the order is for the service port on my P991. I found a very small cover on the left side of the monitor which exposes the service port. The plug doesn't sit longways up and down it sits sideways. Does anyone know the order of connections for each of the four pins from left to right?
  • edited Oct 2010
    DAOWAce wrote:
    Well, just tried things again nearly a month later. Somehow, worked the first try.

    Now I just need to find those guides I had saved..

    Edit: Or I could somehow OSD lock it.

    Anyone know how to unlock the OSD on the P1130? I have no idea what would've caused it.
    Someone earlier in this thread had the same problem with the same monitor. I found the solution from this same thread with confirmation that it fixes it although I don't know what any of it means:

    From mrtube posted in 2006:
    "if you dont already have them get the CR1 files for windas, then
    go to procedure, and "FINALIZE" its the last thing on the list
    tab to the OK button that i can never see, hit enter, itll say 'FINALIZE??" say YES
    itll finalize, and your OSD will be unlocked"

    Let me know how it works.
  • DAOWAceDAOWAce US East
    edited Oct 2010
    snip

    Alright, thanks for quoting that. I did try to google search but came up with no useful leads. I'll look into it when I want to continue with my convergence tweaking. (must put another older PC on my desk and shove things around into a stressful configuration since my more recent PC has no serial port.. and serial add-in cards are $20 minimum. I picked this monitor up for $10, so.. yeah, not buying one unless I get desperate.)
  • edited Oct 2010
    DAOWAce wrote:
    Alright, thanks for quoting that. I did try to google search but came up with no useful leads. I'll look into it when I want to continue with my convergence tweaking. (must put another older PC on my desk and shove things around into a stressful configuration since my more recent PC has no serial port.. and serial add-in cards are $20 minimum. I picked this monitor up for $10, so.. yeah, not buying one unless I get desperate.)
    You can order a new cable where it uses USB. That's what mine is and it was only $7 with free shipping!. Go to Ebay and type USB to ttl converter and you'll get results.
  • DAOWAceDAOWAce US East
    edited Oct 2010
    http://www.geeetech.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=39&products_id=158

    Something like that?

    I thought about it, but it seemed iffy. If I knew a USB converter worked reliably I would've gotten it instead.

    Still, I'd rather have a long cable so I would be able to keep my monitor in the spot I use it, rather than 3 feet away, so I'd have to find a cable like that if it exists, or get an extension. Saving money vs convenience.. sigh.
  • edited Oct 2010
    DAOWAce wrote:
    http://www.geeetech.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=39&products_id=158

    Something like that?

    I thought about it, but it seemed iffy. If I knew a USB converter worked reliably I would've gotten it instead.

    Still, I'd rather have a long cable so I would be able to keep my monitor in the spot I use it, rather than 3 feet away, so I'd have to find a cable like that if it exists, or get an extension. Saving money vs convenience.. sigh.
    That's the exact one I have. By the way anyone reading this part of the thread know what the order of the connectors are the Dell Ultrascan P991? I keep getting errors with WinDAS.
  • edited Oct 2010
    I saw a post on this thread that told me the order of the connections for my P991 which are TXD, RXD, VCC (+5), GND. When I try to save data to file the program pauses for about 3 seconds and I get a message that says "Can't connect the monitor! Check Bus line and condition!" I did try rearranging the connections to see if I had something wrong and every other arrangement makes my monitor shut off until I unplug it. Then the monitor comes back on. Anybody having this same problem?:confused:" alt=":confused:" />
  • DAOWAceDAOWAce US East
    edited Oct 2010
    That happened to me when things weren't arranged properly. Like if I put the 5v into ground. I also read that you can damage your monitor if you connect something wrong like that, but mine's still operating fine after multiple mis-connections.

    Sounds as if your layout is the same as mine. Assuming you took the jumper off and put the 5.5v into VCC, try the 5.5v (unless that's only 5v) at the top.

    The only other thing I can really say is something you've already tried. Swap the TXD and RXD connectors. Use different wires for the connectors. Or, maybe you need to solder the connections in case they did a shoddy job and some don't have actual contact. I had to solder 2 pins.

    This is all assuming you chose your monitor in the model selection screen. Restart the program if you haven't tried that when swapping connectors.


    If you can't get it to work, maybe it's because of the USB connector as I feared.
  • edited Oct 2010
    DAOWAce wrote:
    That happened to me when things weren't arranged properly. Like if I put the 5v into ground. I also read that you can damage your monitor if you connect something wrong like that, but mine's still operating fine after multiple mis-connections.

    Sounds as if your layout is the same as mine. Assuming you took the jumper off and put the 5.5v into VCC, try the 5.5v (unless that's only 5v) at the top.

    The only other thing I can really say is something you've already tried. Swap the TXD and RXD connectors. Use different wires for the connectors. Or, maybe you need to solder the connections in case they did a shoddy job and some don't have actual contact. I had to solder 2 pins.

    This is all assuming you chose your monitor in the model selection screen. Restart the program if you haven't tried that when swapping connectors.


    If you can't get it to work, maybe it's because of the USB connector as I feared.
    I finally got it to work after many hours of being frustrated with the cable. I did swap the transistor and receiver connections but I didn't think to put them back after swapping the ground and positive connectors. Most likely because there might have been a bad connection in the monitor I couldn't get the software to work until after about the 5th attempt of connecting it to the monitor and then it finally worked. My monitor looks great now. I hope I have better luck with my other dell.
  • DAOWAceDAOWAce US East
    edited Oct 2010
    Good to know it works. Maybe I'll get a USB adapter now and connect it to an extension cord so I can do this whenever I please.
  • edited Oct 2010
    That's the exact one I have. By the way anyone reading this part of the thread know what the order of the connectors are the Dell Ultrascan P991? I keep getting errors with WinDAS.
    I looked at the picture again and realized my USB adapter isn't exactly the same as the one you mentioned, <cite class="ic-username"></cite>DAOWAce.;D
    Mine has six pins on the opposite side of the USB connectors on the circuit board. Mine has this output: 3.3V, RST, TXD, RXD, GND, and +5V. Sorry about the communication error however the one you found should do the same trick as I saw in the picture.
  • edited Nov 2010
    One of my dell monitors decided to kick the bucket today. I heard something begin to buzz, then POW! Don't know what caused it but now the image is all wierd and ugly. The OSD doesn't really help with adjustments either. After opening WinDAS it says it won't connect to the monitor. I think it's out for good.:(
  • edited Nov 2010
    Hello !

    I appologise for asking this here, but I've searched everywhere and couldn't find an answer...and I didn't want to start a new thread either...
    I've found a warehouse near where I live that has over 100 refurbished Dell P1130 monitors.
    Besides testing them before I buy I would also like to know how many hours of use do they have, which I belive can be found in the service menu, right ?
    If it's corect, please tell me how to access it.

    Thank you !
  • edited Nov 2010
    If you are talking about the OSD menu, I am pretty sure you can't. I can't find anything like that on my P991. If you're talking about the WinDAS software, I don't know. I'm too scared to accidentally screw up my recently perfected Dell P991 monitor (meaning the convergence, color, geometry, and of course the brightness) to figure out if you can see how many hours of usage the monitor has. Any one else know the answer? I would like to know myself.
  • edited Nov 2010
    I know this is off topic but I can't find anything on Google about this discovery I just made. My first monitor, the Viewsonic G810 manufactured January 2000, has its own little port on the lower back cover. Although it does put out a crisp picture and very decent color, it has many geometric distortions all over the sides of the screen. I did adjust the advanced geometry settings on the OSD to make the screen look as good as possible, but it still has distortions. Is it possible I can get the WinDAS software to somehow work with this monitor?
  • edited Nov 2010
    On any Dell CRT monitor, how can you see the number of hours of usage ?

    Please help !

    Thank you !
  • DAOWAceDAOWAce US East
    edited Nov 2010
    Sad news for me. The flyback transformer is failing. The monitor can't go a day without the beam clicking off for a split second (is what it looks like).

    I'm assuming it will fail by the end of this month. I'd cry if I could, this is a beautiful monitor when the flaws are ignored (shaky text and font that looks like cleartype on CRTs; that RGB colorization). I can't afford a new monitor, not even a cheap one (though a cheap one would be a massive downgrade and I won't do it). Anyone have a spare P1130 (or FW900) just in case mine goes? :(
    On any Dell CRT monitor, how can you see the number of hours of usage ?
    Yeah I'd love to know this too.

    @otherguy: I am no help there. Not a hardware person.
  • edited Dec 2010
    DAOWAce wrote:
    Sad news for me. The flyback transformer is failing. The monitor can't go a day without the beam clicking off for a split second (is what it looks like).

    I'm assuming it will fail by the end of this month. I'd cry if I could, this is a beautiful monitor when the flaws are ignored (shaky text and font that looks like cleartype on CRTs; that RGB colorization). I can't afford a new monitor, not even a cheap one (though a cheap one would be a massive downgrade and I won't do it). Anyone have a spare P1130 (or FW900) just in case mine goes? :(


    Yeah I'd love to know this too.

    @otherguy: I am no help there. Not a hardware person.
    Well, I don't know much about how a flyback transformer works, however I have been doing some reading and found out it's cheap to replace it (if you're doing it yourself) although I don't know where to order one. I read they're around or below $50. But I must warn you (and you probably already know it) there are some extremely high voltages involved with this part. Good luck.
  • edited Dec 2010
    Hello everyone !

    I recently bought an unused P1130 monitor that is in top condition.
    When I first power it on from cold, the image is very very bright, but after about 30 min the colour contrast and black gradually become very intense. After that the image quality is jaw-dropping.
    Is this behaviour normal ?
    On my other Samsung DynaFlat (Shadow-Mask) CRT's, the warm-up period lasts only 10 min in which the blacks become really black and only a few minutes for the geometry to properly fit the screen, but there is now overbrightness at first.
    My Windas cable will be arriving shortly, so if this behaviour is not normal please let me know what I can do within the software to fix it.

    Thanks !
  • DAOWAceDAOWAce US East
    edited Dec 2010
    'Normal' with my well used P1130. 30 minutes or so before the damn thing is usable.

    My old shadow mask CRT showed the screen at normal brightess in 15 seconds. My P1130 takes 5x longer to do anything else compared to it. I'm still not used to it and I still hate it.

    @flyback converter: It stopped doing it about 10 days after it started. Lucky me. Still have yet to redo the convergence, but that's probably what caused the problem in the first place. I probably won't do it until I wind up getting that USB cable.
  • edited Dec 2010
    Hello everyone !

    I recently bought an unused P1130 monitor that is in top condition.
    When I first power it on from cold, the image is very very bright, but after about 30 min the colour contrast and black gradually become very intense. After that the image quality is jaw-dropping.
    Is this behaviour normal ?
    On my other Samsung DynaFlat (Shadow-Mask) CRT's, the warm-up period lasts only 10 min in which the blacks become really black and only a few minutes for the geometry to properly fit the screen, but there is now overbrightness at first.
    My Windas cable will be arriving shortly, so if this behaviour is not normal please let me know what I can do within the software to fix it.

    Thanks !
    Sorry I took a little while to reply, but I have been helping people with their trinitron TV's. To answer your question: yes. I don't know if this was normal when the trinitron computer monitors of all models did this when they were brand new. I don't know what the explanation is for it, but many, if not all, trinitron computer monitor users have this issue. Oh, do you know what the default brightness of your p1130 is? I think I may have set the G2 voltage on my p991 too low. As of right now, the color and brightness settings are a little goofy although tolerable.

    @<cite class="ic-username"></cite>DAOWAce Did you have another monitor plugged in via a VGA 2-splitter with your p1130 plugged into it? If you did, it may be sensitive to that monitor. My p991 is picky like that (mine started doing it just after I plugged another monitor in). And you should by that cable it's worth it.;)

    I also managed to finally fix my other p991. Something fell through the back cover and touched some of the contacts on one of the circuit boards. This is what probably screwed up the color. And the monitor started responding again. So I loaded the original settings back into the monitor to restore the color.:bigggrin::bigggrin::bigggrin:
  • DAOWAceDAOWAce US East
    edited Dec 2010
    @<cite class="ic-username"></cite>DAOWAce Did you have another monitor plugged in via a VGA 2-splitter with your p1130 plugged into it?

    Nada. I was controlling a second computer remotely with the monitor plugged into my computer. With the USB cable (+ an extension) I can remove the hassle of using a second older PC for the serial port.
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