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Awesome monitor. Though I've had to lower the G2 voltage twice.
I have one that has started to do the same thing. It won't turn on when it is 'cold'. I have to run a blow dryer into the lower right side for about 30 seconds before it'll turn on. If I *leave* it on, it's fine. I can even turn it off for a few minutes at a time without problems. But if it cools down too much, it behaves exactly as you describe - the power light goes green then turns to orange flashing standby. I hear there's a warmup circuit in these things. Maybe it's getting tired...
Anyway, good luck if you try the blow dryer.
DJ, although I too think it's fun to tinker with computer components, why waste your time on ancient CRT monitors? Wouldn't it be so much easier to just toss it out (recycle, if your local area has that capability) and replace it? If you are on a tight budget (like zero moneyJ), you can get about as many CRTs as you want for free. Keep the ones that work and simply dispose of those that are broken. Look on Craigslist and find people looking for someone to come take theirs away.
Hi My first post here.
It appears that my Dell P1130 monitor problem might be fixed with a resistor swap, but the link mentioned in the following post from 2007 no longer works. (Was doing a google search to see if I could fix the monitor problem rather than replacement.)
I am a full time professional futures trader and run a desktop with 6 monitors. Prefer CRTs to LCDs. I have 2 monitors that have started to display diagonal light gray/white lines running from lower left to upper right about 3 cm apart. These monitors have also lost the sharpness of the black and are no longer crisp like they use to be... and are getting worse over time. (Difficult to read fine text and white backgrounds are "dirty".)
Does this sound like the problem that could be solved with this resistor swap mentioned below? I am handy with tools and can usually figure things out if I have instructions to work with. Any help with this would be greatly appreciated.
To all: (((Especially those who did resistor swap and still got too dark of results not matter what))))
I ran into 3 situations along the way...
First... The link to the Hutzelman website everyone kept linking that ended in /monitor... does not work for me...
There you go, has the layout for the p1110 in there...
Second... The 457 and 459 are really close to each other. I have 2 other buddies with this monitor... They bought it back in 2002? I think... On the same day... some sale. 1 of them did a parallel 10 ohm to the 457... The 457 runs under the board like the 459 does before you cut it... He ran another 10ohm on top of the board to the 457 points making it a 5ohm in all connection I believe... Or close to it. Also these 2 points being very close makes it very easy to make a mistake or accidentally drag your soldering puddle and connect the 457 and the 459. I did this... and then remelted the 459 and with a knife ever soo carefully(not the cut or destroy the circuit that ran on the board between 457 & 459) separated the 2 again.
---I read a couple of posts where people thought they may have connected the 457 and 459 points and couldn't get out of the too dark phase at all... This is a situation I ran into... Or so I thought.......
Lastly, My final BIG mistake... The 1 that made it or broke it... When you go out shopping for these resistors... make SURE it's a M resistor... On my set up and my other buddies set up... We both bought 5.6ohm 1w resistors.. Neither worked for either of us. So I bought 5.2ohm, 6.2, 6.8. 9.1, 7.2, 7.8?,10, 11.2? and many more up to 15... and as low as a 4.7. All 1 watt resistors too... ALL gave me too dark results. Either WAY too dark so that all settings/colors on full blast wouldn't hardly give me an image... Or just too dark giving me a brown tint on everything while all settings were turned up. I couldn't figure it out...
I was soo close to trashing this beast... Sure that I probly connected or over burned 2 points with the soldering iron...
Until... I returned to my local computer hardware store... I found out there was actually 2 sections of carbon film resistors... I looked at the resistor stripes and noticed they were different... Began reading and OH NO I didn't buy the M resistors... I bought 2 of each all the way from 4.7 to 9.1. ALL 1watt and ALL M RESISTORS. I returned home, sure I had the fix now. And sure enough, I was correct. My first and final attempt was a 5.6Mohm 1 watt carbon film resistors (also important to get a carbon film and not a metal film or whatever b/c it'll send out some signal or radiation crap). This could also be marked as a 5M6 ohm 1 watt... I use a 1 watt b/c I hear that a few years down the road I'd just be replacing the 1/2 watt or the 1/4 watt if I were to choose one...
The 5M6ohm works GREAT, contrast/brightness are at 50/50 and I no longer have to use my nVidia settings... It's amazing. My buddies monitors had went out about the same time within a month of each other... And my boss gave me my p1110 and it already had the brightness issue... The resistors at the store me and my friends shopped at costs me like 4cents each resistor... 100 resistors for like 4$.... A free monitor that was several hundred dollars... now 4 cents... Amazing. Me and the guys all stumbled into the M resistor problem... Even when my friend ran his parallel to p457. We didn't share our results till the end seeing how I guess it turned out to be a challenge to see who could fix it right and the fastest way... In the end we were all fools... But successful fools.
I have never soldered anything in my life until recently... It's fun. I'd take the job in soldering if I hadn't already had a good internet job.
The software fix... Way too complicated, find the software... the links most of you listed don't work, splice the cables... set the monitor to the right adjustments... Ugh... Too much to worry about.
With the resistor fix just disassemble the monitor, remove the old resistor, solder in new (easy/fun), remount case, play/enjoy. 10 minute deal.
A few precautions to worry about. Don't go disassembling the WHOLE monitor. Many pieces actually hold a charge and can/WILL kill you if you touch them. I touched all over the board where the 457/459 are and nothing jolted me. Maybe I was lucky...
Follow these instructions... VERY easy, and I guarantee everyone has a hardware store or warehouse around you that carries resistors... Everything needs em. Radios, TVs, computers... toasters now even... etc. No need to worry about ordering them online, just google some resistor retailers in your area... I did. And GREAT SUCCESS!!!
email@example.com is my email address so email me if you got anymore questions I should be able to help
Until next time...
Can someone please help me get WinDAS working with my FW-9011? I'm running WinDAS in XP mode under Win7.
Whenever I click "Save data to file", there is a five second pause, then an error pops up saying "Can't connect the monitor! Check Bus line and condition!"
Any and all help is appreciated.
I see this is a couple months old now, have you had any success?
I noticed on Massmind's webpage it says "CTS may have to be shorted to RTS on some models" and "RTS may need to be shorted to CTS on some models"
If needed, the old paperclip jumper may be required!
Unfortunately not, I have not actually had access to this monitor since the response. I shall be able to try again though come the weekend I'll keep the paperclip jumper solution in mind
Did you have any luck with your cable?
It took a LOT of fanagling, and I had to swap the red and yellow wires on the monitor end of the connector, and I had to plug...unplug...plug...unplug...on about the 15th try I clicked to save the settings and WHAM! Up came a location box to save the files! I saved the original parameters, but, instead of following instructions I went into the ADJUSTMENT menu and adjusted a LOT of things! Pincushioning, brightness, convergence, tint, everything!
SO, then I removed the cable, and went to push the MENU button on the monitor, and got a little green key on the left lower side of the screen. The OSD Menu is LOCKED and cannot be unlocked!!!!
THe monitor is much better, it's not as bright and I have been using the nVidia settings to adjust it, but I need to get to the OSD to fine tune it.
After about 25 more attempts to connect and change the OSD lock, I finally gave up. I had to lower the resolution of the screen a bit, and the colors are a bit funky (the OSD menu could prbably FIX this! >:( ), but it is better than it was.
I guess it's just an old, old monitor, but I *LIKE* CRTs....
I'll try fiddling around with it again this weekend. I know I had to change the port setting on the laptop, and change it back, and change it again, so I think I'll try another laptop and see if I can reconnect.
The OSD "locks-up" when the user fails to "save" the calibration/adjustment setting BEFORE exiting WinDAS. What you need to do is to start WinDAS, making absolutely sure the the probe is correctly connected to the maintenance port of the monitor and that the GDM-FW900 is selected from the "Set up" "Model Select" menu pull-down; then go to "Adjustment", then to "Procedure", then to "Final Settings", then it saves the current data, then Exit. Once you do that, then the OSD will be "unlocked".
Oh man, that sounds rough. Lots of people have had their OSDs locked. I think most of them can fix it though I can't remember how they do it. I'll see if I can find it for you.
Here you go:
I'm having a lot of trouble trying to connect my p1110 to my computer. I have windas installed, using xp pro 32 and i have brought this cable. I am connecting the monitor with the facing the celling and the others going down from there. My PCI serial card is connected correctly and all set up. Everything should be a go right? What's the issue? If i select a serial port my computer does not have the program gives the error message right away. So its finding the serial ports, because when I select the correct port it takes about 5 seconds for the error message to come up.
Hello, what an awesome forum and thread!
I have a few questions regarding a Dell/Sony P922. I bought it at a thrift store for $.25 and of course it has the bright screen problem.
I was looking through the thread and I've decided the best bet would probably be the resistor swap. for which I have a few questions. 1) can someone please give me the ratting I should use for a single replacement as to avoid soldering in parallel as I'm not that confident at soldering!
2) any tips on where to buy them in America would be great...
Quickly typing this out after spending a few hours trying to get this to work.
Got a P1130 for cheap, turns out it had the brightness problem.
Bought this thing: http://www.geeetech.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=39&products_id=156 Waited 2 weeks for it to ship to me.
It get here today, I mess with it, nothing. "check bus blah blah"
I did manage to get it to see something was attached, but it spewed ECS errors since it wasn't connected right.
I have tried multiple different connection setups and just can't see why it won't work. I'm starting to think I bought the wrong accessory for this job. Can anyone advise?
rice burner wrote:
Have you set the COM port in the BIOS setup (COM1 or COM2 - as the case may be). Thats one of the gotchas that initially caught me out.
Thanks for the link, however I was getting the "no .mdl files" message and found out the library file "Msflxgrd.ocx" was missing and I found a place to download it. After I downloaded it there were instructions on the website to run the following command for Windows XP:
I did this and instead of getting the "DllRegisterServer ... succeeded" message I am getting a message that says "\windows\system32\Msflxgrd.ocx" is not an executable file and no registration helper is registered for this file type."
You know how to fix?
Well, just tried things again nearly a month later. Somehow, worked the first try.
Now I just need to find those guides I had saved..
Edit: Or I could somehow OSD lock it.
Anyone know how to unlock the OSD on the P1130? I have no idea what would've caused it.
Alright, thanks for quoting that. I did try to google search but came up with no useful leads. I'll look into it when I want to continue with my convergence tweaking. (must put another older PC on my desk and shove things around into a stressful configuration since my more recent PC has no serial port.. and serial add-in cards are $20 minimum. I picked this monitor up for $10, so.. yeah, not buying one unless I get desperate.)
Something like that?
I thought about it, but it seemed iffy. If I knew a USB converter worked reliably I would've gotten it instead.
Still, I'd rather have a long cable so I would be able to keep my monitor in the spot I use it, rather than 3 feet away, so I'd have to find a cable like that if it exists, or get an extension. Saving money vs convenience.. sigh.
That happened to me when things weren't arranged properly. Like if I put the 5v into ground. I also read that you can damage your monitor if you connect something wrong like that, but mine's still operating fine after multiple mis-connections.
Sounds as if your layout is the same as mine. Assuming you took the jumper off and put the 5.5v into VCC, try the 5.5v (unless that's only 5v) at the top.
The only other thing I can really say is something you've already tried. Swap the TXD and RXD connectors. Use different wires for the connectors. Or, maybe you need to solder the connections in case they did a shoddy job and some don't have actual contact. I had to solder 2 pins.
This is all assuming you chose your monitor in the model selection screen. Restart the program if you haven't tried that when swapping connectors.
If you can't get it to work, maybe it's because of the USB connector as I feared.
That's the exact one I have. By the way anyone reading this part of the thread know what the order of the connectors are the Dell Ultrascan P991? I keep getting errors with WinDAS.
On any Dell CRT monitor, how can you see the number of hours of usage ?
Sad news for me. The flyback transformer is failing. The monitor can't go a day without the beam clicking off for a split second (is what it looks like).
I'm assuming it will fail by the end of this month. I'd cry if I could, this is a beautiful monitor when the flaws are ignored (shaky text and font that looks like cleartype on CRTs; that RGB colorization). I can't afford a new monitor, not even a cheap one (though a cheap one would be a massive downgrade and I won't do it). Anyone have a spare P1130 (or FW900) just in case mine goes?
Yeah I'd love to know this too.
@otherguy: I am no help there. Not a hardware person.
Hello everyone !
I recently bought an unused P1130 monitor that is in top condition.
When I first power it on from cold, the image is very very bright, but after about 30 min the colour contrast and black gradually become very intense. After that the image quality is jaw-dropping.
Is this behaviour normal ?
On my other Samsung DynaFlat (Shadow-Mask) CRT's, the warm-up period lasts only 10 min in which the blacks become really black and only a few minutes for the geometry to properly fit the screen, but there is now overbrightness at first.
My Windas cable will be arriving shortly, so if this behaviour is not normal please let me know what I can do within the software to fix it.
@<cite class="ic-username"></cite>DAOWAce Did you have another monitor plugged in via a VGA 2-splitter with your p1130 plugged into it?
Icrontic — Home of the Big Beef Burrito since 8-8-2000, fool.
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