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My car needs some love.

SonorousSonorous F@H Fanatic Virginia Icrontian
Hey fellow gear heads and hobbyists, I have some chipping in my paint from some stones or something the previous owner did with my car and I would really like some input about touch up paints. I have a sangria red Mazda 6s. All of the paint chipping is relatively small, noting larger than a pin head, but I want to take care of it before any rust starts or moisture makes the chips any larger. I have heard horror stories of the rain and constant 80% plus humidity wreaking havoc on cars here in Virginia.

Comments

  • RyderRyder Kalamazoo, Mi Icrontian
    www.paintscratch.com or www.drcolorchip.com.

    You want to do some sanding to the chip, then prime it, then color it, then clear coat it. After that you can polish the scratches away.
    IMO, that is the best way to fix chips.
    SonorousBuddyJ
  • SonorousSonorous F@H Fanatic Virginia Icrontian
    I have been reading a little on Dr Colorchip and it seems like the major complaint with all of these paint patch up kits is they dont really fill the chip in and you can still see where the chip is. Could I maybe back fill it a little with a ultra smal amount of bondo, sand, prime, paint and then then clear coat to get smooth finish? Or is there another way to go about it.
  • TushonTushon I'm scared, Coach Alexandria, VA Icrontian
    Because that answers one of two questions about my car, what, if anything, can I do about minor damage to the bumper on a 2006 Scion tC? I parked too close to a storm drain in a parking lot and rolled forward when putting it into reverse, resulting in a tear/puncture of the bumper. I can take pictures if that will describe it better, but it currently has paint that was chipped away initially and then more over the resulting year plus that I've driven it since then without really caring.
  • SonorousSonorous F@H Fanatic Virginia Icrontian
    Post a pic! I'm sure a little body filler might do the trick.
  • JokkeJokke Bergen, Norway Icrontian
    For best result, (but most expensive) = Sandblast entire car, repaint.
    For good result, (cheaper, but still expensive) = Sandblast damaged part, repaint.

    Now, what I'd go for: Your dealership probably has small bottles of the original paint (fillers) with a tiny brush (imagine a larger nail polish kind of thing).

    Use sand paper to sand the area around the damage. It's important to go a little outside the damage itself, because moisture and water/dirt may have made it between the paint and the metal. Sand until you reach metal, and use the sand paper to make scratches in the metal (not so deep you can feel it with a finger, but visible to the naked eye). Smooth down the edges with some finer sand paper, so you get a nice slope between paint and exposed area. Now place a big gob of paint in the middle of the area, and brush it out. Doesn't have to even, but it needs to be thick. Don't worry about smoothing it yet. Now there should be an "overpaint" time, and a "hard drying" time on the label, the "overpaint" time being shorter (I have no idea what you call it in English, but I hope it's understandable). Within the "overpaint" time use fine sand paper to smooth out the applied paint so it's below the old paint. Now apply a new layer, thinner than the first. Again, let it "overpaint" dry, smooth down a little bit, and apply thinner layer. Do this until old and new paint is even.

    Now most of these fillers include clear coat, either in the paint itself, or as a separate bottle. If not, get a spray can of clear coat with a fine nozzle!!! Use some very fine sandpaper and lightly rub the freshly painted area and then some. carefully apply clear coat. Sand down and repeat until satisfied.
    RootWyrmTushonardichoke
  • RootWyrmRootWyrm Icrontian
    Jokke stole my reply.

    Also, if your car dealer doesn't have your correct color (this happens a lot) you can look up your paint code cross-reference at most auto parts stores. I recommend Dupli-Color if you go that route; it's made by Sherwin-Williams (who also makes a lot of the factory paint.)
  • SnarkasmSnarkasm Madison, WI Icrontian
    Bumpers on tCs are plastic, unless you have a more recent model and they've changed in the last 5 years. You'll probably need something more in the way of an epoxy to rebind it; Bondo doesn't work on plastic.
    JBoogalooTushon
  • SonorousSonorous F@H Fanatic Virginia Icrontian
    Snarkasm said:

    Bumpers on tCs are plastic, unless you have a more recent model and they've changed in the last 5 years. You'll probably need something more in the way of an epoxy to rebind it; Bondo doesn't work on plastic.

    I use caution when working with plastics and epoxy. I have melted a few plastic cups and scenic pieces with the industrial stuff. Some epoxies generate an alarming amount of heat when you mix the hardener with the resin. Note that's only when working with a large volume, not a little squeeze tube of the stuff you get a Lowes.

  • shwaipshwaip bluffin' with my muffin Icrontian
    Don't put anything in the tailpipe without talking to her first.
  • ardichokeardichoke Icrontian
    Always make sure the gasket is well lubricated.


    Wink wink, nudge nudge, say-no-more.
  • SonorousSonorous F@H Fanatic Virginia Icrontian
    edited Aug 2013
    Sometimes your have to ease it into gear. Don't force it. That's rape.
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