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Don't think you asked about location... it might just happen that i live on the other side of the world and shipping would be thru the roof. I live in Bucharest, Romania.
the screen blinks bright blue and then the image becomes yellow (like the color temperature was set to "low") for a few minutes. Probably some bad connection (or a short) somewhere,
Another problem is that if it is colder in the room then the monitor takes about a minute to warm up and show picture. On the other hand, if the room temperature is 36 degrees C, the monitor displays picture almost immediately
1. Abnormal G2 voltage, usually 100V~ higher than its original spec at 522V. The G2 voltage can be bring down by modifying relevant value with WINDAS, and after the tweaking, overall brightness level can indeed be lowered. The cause of this phenomenon is still unclear – some people believe it’s caused by EEPROM data corruption, which I seriously doubt: data corruption in ROM is usually random, so why it’s always the G2 value suffer the loss?
2. The picture is over-bright, a little greenish on black at startup and after a while (15-20 minutes or so) the picture become darker, its color more saturated and able to maintain correct black & white balance. Some people claim that brings down G2 back to normal will cure everything, but it’s not true. Although after proper adjustment (for my unit, the G2 value was tweaked from 157 to 126, set at 30 in OSD for brightness) the monitor’s brightness level may be in normal range even the moment after a cold start, but the tendency (darker and deeper over time) is still the same, while the G2 is actually stable all the time.
Internal short in tube. Fixable but risky... since it happens so rarely i'd let it be.
See if the tube starts glowing as soon as you turn it on (with signal input of course). If it takes a while to light up, resolder the heater connections on the back of the neck board.
Interestingly enough, your monitor seems to NOT have the drift correct circuit... but i'd look for it, since the symptoms are exactly the same as my P1110.
If it is as you say (bad heater connection), can this cause damage to the tube if the heaters take a while to light up?
Overall, when it comes to FD-CRT computer monitors, I think Mitsubishi Diamondtron M2 units are more successful than their Sony counterparts. Mitsubishis are very stable, even more transparent than Sony tubes, comes with a very effective super-bright button, and to this day I haven’t found any design flaws for these units.
P1130 lacks a manual convergence control; therefore its convergence is usually worse than P1110s.
No. I didn't mean the convergence OSD setting. I mean the mechanical adjustments for convergence near the tube, and if I remembered correctly, P1130s haven't installed such device by default and its convergence is fully digital controlled and is supposed to be adjustable via DAS only. Maybe P1130 sets exported to your country is different from what we've used here, though.Besides, both P1110 and P1130 should use the same type of tube. So if you want to prove that the tube itself is causing P1110s need so much time to "warmup", you can try switching the boards of these.
Icrontic — Home of the Big Beef Burrito since 8-8-2000, fool.
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