DELL P1110 monitor too bright

[slipkid]

a friend of mine just gave me his old DELL P1110 21 inch flat screen monitor

when trying to use it though, i see that it has a MAJOR problem with being WAYYYY to bright :-(

i've tried adjusting the brightness & contrast settings to no avail

even with the brightness set all the way down to 0, it's terrible

the problem has nothing to do with windoze or the driver being used in windoze, the problem is immediately apparent even without plugging the monitor into my PC, you can see it in the bootup phase where the memory countsup on what is *normall* a black background

on this monitor though, what SHOULD be a black background is all washed out gray, like if you turn the brightness control up on your TV all the way - which only carries over & skews everything once you get into windows (blacks are not true blacks, light backgrounds blaze into my eyeballs like staring ito the sun, etc)

i am researching this now on the 'net, trying to find out if there is any way to adjust this, and i am learning that possibly:

(1) all flat screen displays (like this one) are "too bright" (?)

(2) some monitors have "hidden" controls to turn this down via screws inside the cases that you have to know where they are what to adjust (haven't found the info i need for this one yet)

(3) some workarounds involve replacing resistors in the unit (??)


does anyone have any clues they can give me how to fix this problem on the dell p1110??? it's a really nice unit except for the overly bright display

any responses greatly appreciated, THANKS!!!!!!


***********EDIT/UPDATE 1/28/06*************

PLEASE NOTE FOR FOLKS NEW TO THIS THREAD:

This thread gets quite long & you need to read the WHOLE THING to see the various solutions and twists and turns. And there ARE SOLUTIONS! Just be sure to read it all b4 you decide how to handle your own monitor problem.

User P991DELLSONY has graciously posted one solution which many have found to be helpful, but it comes up several pages deep into this thread. You can read the discussion of his solution further on, or also, thanks to P991, try this webpage to cut to the chase:
http://www.geocities.com/gregua/windas/

THANKS TO ALL FOR THEIR HELP & INPUT WITH THIS PROBLEM, WHICH AS IT TURNS OUT, AFFLICTS MANY MANY OF THESE MONITORS.
************************************************

[Komete]

Hi there, I have no fix for you but at my work we have 320 dell 21 inch or 20 inch flat screens and every monitors brightness and color are different. Some have a faded look others have rich dark look. I have messed with about 20 or so of them trying see if I could tweek them to be the same and it is a no go. They came with a 3 year warrenty. I would try seeing if you can send it back in and get a replacement. You might get lucky and get one that hits 6500k perfectly. RIght now I'm stuck on an overbright faded one. I'll probably be trading it out with a coworkers when they are not looking lmao or ask for a swap.

[slipkid]

Hi there, I have no fix for you but at my work we have 320 dell 21 inch or 20 inch flat screens and every monitors brightness and color are different. Some have a faded look others have rich dark look. I have messed with about 20 or so of them trying see if I could tweek them to be the same and it is a no go. They came with a 3 year warrenty. I would try seeing if you can send it back in and get a replacement. You might get lucky and get one that hits 6500k perfectly. RIght now I'm stuck on an overbright faded one. I'll probably be trading it out with a coworkers when they are not looking lmao or ask for a swap.

thanks for the response!

what you describe (having an "overbright faded one") is EXACTLY what this thing looks like

i will ask my friend if he's had it less than 3 years - maybe he can return it for me but i doubt he will want to be bothered

how'd you like to exchange this one in your office for a good one for me? (just kidding)

thanks again for the info though

[Komete]

thanks for the response!


how'd you like to exchange this one in your office for a good one for me? (just kidding)

thanks again for the info though

Haha.. I work for the State of Louisiana.. I would be taken a trip down river

I hope you are able to send it back becouse the ones that are true 6500k are so rich in color.

[slipkid]

NEWFLASH!!!!

i posted about this on several forums including this one & i now have the exact info needed to correct this

*******
http://www.hutzelman.com/web/pages/hardware/Mods/SonyCRT/
Sony Monitor Brightness Fix
Many Sony Trinitron-based monitors manufactured around the 1999-2000 time frame develop a brightness problem over time which substantially degrades the picture quality. Some models which exhibit this problem are the Sony G500 and the Dell P1110. The following "fix" has helped me and many others get the brightness and color back to near factory specs. The main signs that you have this problem will be the absence of a good black level - even with the brightness set to 0, the monitor will show blacks as bright greys. [Disclaimer: this "fix" is not really the correct way to fix the problem, but the results should be quite satisfactory.]
********

rest of the link goes on to explain what to do - it involves opening the CRT case, disabling an existing resistor, and soldering in a new/different one

not exactly an easy task for people not familiar with electronics/soldering, and also poses certain risks, but i am going to try it

not as easy as swapping it out with a co-worker but worth a shot!

wish me luck & thanks again

[Thrax]

Heh. I use 58 brightness, 100 contrast, and 11k colour on my P1110.

[TheSmJ]

I'm at 88 Contrast, 17 Brightness on my P1100. I Try turning down the brightness to 0, and things get too blue (6500K color temp, btw). I may try this one of these days, when I decide to rip open my baby and tinker around with her innards.

P.S.: "Colour", Thrax? What the hell are they teaching you over there at EMU?

[Enverex]

Mine is set up as follows:

Colour : Expert
50, 50, 50, 85, 87, 95

Brightness: 35
Contrast : 85

[slipkid]

hopefully someday my monitor will be working almost the way it should (if i do the resistor mod) so i can set the brightness to the 50s! as it is now (at 0) it is ridiculously bright and unusable IMO

also, i've read some other things about this monitor at these links that may be of interest to others here:

http://www.adrian-smith31.clara.co.uk/pctips/monitor_tips.htm
http://www.anatekcorp.com/faq/archmntr.htm

something called a "software sony DAS alignment" may correct the problem as well

i haven't been able to find out yet exactly what a sony DAS alignment is though, how to get the software, how it works, or who can do it for you (? sony technician?)

[TheSmJ]

You could always go to a Sony outlet and ask them about the software. I might do that myself on Tuesday, actually. I'll post what they say, and if I could get a copy of this software, you can bet I'll host it and post a link to it here.

As for opening it up and playing with the resistance of the G2 regulator, I kinda want to, and a kinda don't. Not that I dont think of myself as proficent enough to work inside of it (it used to be my job) but, I just dont want to risk it as it's totally usable for now at a really low brightness setting of 17.

[SimGuy]

20 Brightness & 50 Contrast.
11K Colour Temp. 50-50-50-85-80-95

Catalyst Control Centre Color Correction:
-> Gamma: 1.0
-> Brightness: 0
-> Contrast: 100
-> Straight Color Correction Curve

Sony's DAS: Digital Alignment Software, which can calibrate the internal programming of any Sony-based monitor.

If you manage to get a hold of the DAS, you'll need the following Sony parts to get it to work (all are Sony Part Numbers):

Adapter Cable: 1-690-391-21
Interface Unit: A-1500-819-A
Connector Attachment: 3-702-691-01

[TheSmJ]

If you manage to get a hold of the DAS, you'll need the following Sony parts to get it to work (all are Sony Part Numbers):

Really? Where do these cables/connectors connect to?

[SimGuy]

No idea really. Just found the info on one of the links above:

QUESTION NO. P1031-4: Sony CPD200GS monitor. Is it possible to reset when the firmware appears to be corrupted?

To re-set adjustments to factory settings, hold the Reset button (second from left) in for over two seconds. A self-test can also be done, by powering on with the video cable disconnected, and pushing the right-arrow button for over two seconds. Four color bars should then appear, to indicate the self-test has been passed. To change the internal programming, you must use Sony DAS service software, which is run on a PC with an interface consisting of adaptor cable, Sony p/n#1-690-391-21; Interface Unit, Sony p/n# A-1500-819-A; and connector attachment, Sony p/n# 3-702-691-01.

[slipkid]

Really? Where do these cables/connectors connect to?

regarding the DAS software (& thanks for posting the extra info!), i spoke (email) to one of the guys who made mention of the DAS software on his webpage, and asked him what it was, how to get it etc

and he said this:
"The Sony DAS software is only available to Sony authorised service centres
and is not available anywhere on the Internet as far as I know. Even if you
did get the software, there is a hardware interface between the PC and the
monitor that converts the serial port data into the I2C bus data the monitor
uses. The software uses 'plugins' - one for each monitor model."

so the parts that you guys listed above must be a serial cable to hookup to the PC's 9 pin serial interface, which goes into a converter unit of some kind and also a seperate "VGA" type connector piece to plug into the monitor (educated guess)

any sony techs out there that can confirm all this for us?

and better yet, any of ya make free house-calls!?!?!?


ALSO, the same guy told me this in email as far as replacing the resistor:
"The easiest thing to do is make sure there are no component faults (faulty
surface mount capacitors are a real problem in this chassis) then if needed,
substitute R459 for a lower value. Check the CRT voltages to make sure the
G2 is actually too high before doing this though - it should be around 512V."

so, if i understand him correctly, the resistor "fix" won't help if there is a problem with faulty "surface mount capacitors" which is a COMMON problem!!!

also, the "G2" voltage should be checked to make sure it is around 512V...sigh....i'm not an electronic technician, don't know what/where the "G2" is, or how to safely check that.....

i may still try the resistor "fix" anyway, provided i can find any that meet the proper "specs" (4.7Mohms to 6.8 Mohms, capable of handling at least 1kV and 0.5Watts)

[TheSmJ]

Check www.jameco.com for the resistors. Prices are a hell of a lot less than Radio Shack.

[NavyElectroTech]

Well, I just did the Resistor mod on two monitors at work. Awesome results... and to think we almost threw them away. I used a 5.4 M-ohm resistor, and here are the settings I found best:

Expert Setup, at RGB Settings
90
92
63
94
80
100

Brightness 52, Contrast 95

Note: Each monitor will require different settings due to the difference in the resistance of the added component. No two resistors are perfectly alike, but that's a starting point. If anyone else has a question on how to do it, let me know.

[Gobbles]

as a tech I just gotta warn you that you need to be very very carefull when working in a monitor especally if it is live and the voltages/amps used in there are enough to kill you...

[edcentric]

I don't need to warn any of you guys that have been posting here, but if someone else comes across this thread...
You had better know what in the hell you are doing when you open a monitor up.
They don't call the high voltage section high for nothing.
A misplaced tool or finger and you will be blown into next week.
OK, I am slow to post.

[NavyElectroTech]

I don't need to warn any of you guys that have been posting here, but if someone else comes across this thread...
You had better know what in the hell you are doing when you open a monitor up.
They don't call the high voltage section high for nothing.
A misplaced tool or finger and you will be blown into next week.
OK, I am slow to post.

I should have posted that!!! I've been hit with the 20Kv On the back of a monitor before... It's not nice. I was thrown about 5 feet into a wall, and the burns took forever to heal :) Of course this happened when I was 12 years old, so lessons learned..... If you are doing the resistor mod, it's not that dangerous, as the card the resistor is on is pretty far away from the flyback area, but still be very careful. It's best to leave the monitor unplugged for 10-15 minutes before opening. As long as the monitor is functioning properly, that should be enough time for all the HV components to discharge.

[TheSmJ]

Well, I just did the Resistor mod on two monitors at work. Awesome results... and to think we almost threw them away. I used a 5.4 M-ohm resistor, and here are the settings I found best:

Expert Setup, at RGB Settings
90
92
63
94
80
100

Brightness 52, Contrast 95

Note: Each monitor will require different settings due to the difference in the resistance of the added component. No two resistors are perfectly alike, but that's a starting point. If anyone else has a question on how to do it, let me know.


Sweet! Where'd you get the resistors from, and how much did they cost you? I might try replacing the resistor this weekend if I have the time.

[NavyElectroTech]

Well, I got them from my stock.... But you can get them from Radio shack for under 2 bucks.... (They may have to order them)
OR
Get one here:
http://www.newark.com/NewarkWebCommerce/newark/en_US/endecaSearch/partDetail.jsp?SKU=25H9823&N=0

That one is like 5 bucks.

Take Care,

Adam :usflag:

[Don Froula]

I fixed this problem on my P1110 last night in 2 minutes with NO need for hardware modifications or expensive Sony software. This may not work for all P1110's, but it sure cured the "too bright" problem for me.

- Turn off monitor.

- Hold down the center front panel "set" button. While holding this button down, swich on monitor. Continue holding the "set" button for 4 seconds, release and immediately push again.

- A password prompt will appear on screen. Enter "7711" using the monitor front panel set and arrow keys.

- A service mode screen will come up.

- Maneuver to the "Gray Scale" menu.

- Set "Brightness" to 50% and "Contrast" to 90% (these are the same controls as the normal menu).

- Adjust the "G2" setting down to the optimal brightness. This setting controls the feedback loop for all three R-G-B electron guns in the CRT. I set mine to a value of 125, but your optimal value may differ.

- Turn monitor off and on to exit service mode.

- Fine tune brightness and contrast with normal controls.

-That's it!

- WARNING: Don't reset the memory to default or play with any other controls without recording values. You could easily render the monitor useless or make the display unreadable which would make it impossible to change the parameters back to a readable state.

[TheSmJ]

I don't get any sort of password prompt on mine. :( But mine is a P1100.

When you say you need to wait four seconds after powering the monitor on, do you mean 4 seconds from when the green light turns on, or 4 seconds after the tube turns on?

[Enverex]

I don't get anything either....

[Don Froula]

Hold the "select" (center) button 4 seconds after turning on the power. Release the set button and immediately push again, momentarily. The password prompt screen should come on.

This may not work for a P1100, but it did for my P1110 (the subject of this thread).

Good luck!

[Don Froula]

I believe you must be providing video drive to the monitor before it will enter the service mode.

I have read you must be driving it at 79.976K/75Hz for this to work properly.

[TheSmJ]

I changed the refresh rate to 75Hz and tried again. Still nothing.

[KINGPIN]

There Are Two Ways To Control It
1- Go To The Gamma Setting Of Video Card And Make It Less Bright.
2- If Your Video Card Is O.k And Problem Is In The Monitor , Open It Find It's Flyback Transformer Which Can Be Spotted By The Lead Emerging From It To The Top Of Crt. There R Three Variables Two Control Focus And One Brightness, Adjust By It.

[slipkid]

Sweet! Where'd you get the resistors from, and how much did they cost you? I might try replacing the resistor this weekend if I have the time.


i spent about 3-4 weeks trying to find these damn things & finally got some last week at this link:

http://www.alliedelec.com/
4.7MOHM 1/2 watt
6.2M OHM 1/2 watt

they were only something like 2 cents a piece, but i had to buy them in packs of 200!!!!


i have not tried them yet (the advice i read said to try the 4.7M first, then if that doesn't work to try the 6.2M)

wish me luck...

[TheSmJ]

Well I performed this resister mod on my P1100 last week, and I can say the results are great!

As some of you already know, prior to the mod my monitor had a rather strange problem where (weather or not the monitor was in use, or stand by) a big, blue spark would jump across the inside of the tube, along witha loud "bang" coming from it. When it started, it only did it every couple of days, then every day, and by the time I finally got serious about fixing it, it was doing it every 15 minutes!

Once I opened up the monitor, I found something strange; Merkortech had apparently already done it! Where the 10MOHM resister was, a 3.2 and 6.2 were in it's place, covered in silicon glue. I removed the 3.2, and re-added the 6.2.

It's been over a week since I modded it, and I haven't seen the monitor arc since!

[slipkid]

i also did the modification - i put in the 6.2 & it looks 10,000% better

MUCH darker than it used to

black actually looks black instead of light gray

it was very EZ to do also

i'm using the monitor now where b4 i was unable to because it was so effin' bright

- jon -

[JJ510FTC]

Hey I did the resistor mod and I used a 5.1M Ohm resistor. The brightness is down to a fraction of before, but now it's too dark!!! I have the brightness/contrast turned up all the way but it's not bright enough... Anyways I'm planning on trying another resistor and was wondering if you folks can suggest what I go with next...
THANKS

[Quick]

Hi,

Thanks all very much for all the info regarding the brightness of the
Sony G500 and the Dell P1110.

Great improvement made by replacing the 10 MOhm resistor
with a 5.6 MOhm one.

Saving money by fixing 2 Monitors.

Investment.
Some fuel for my car to drive to the nearest electronics shop.
and 20 Euro cents for the 2 resistors.

I'm not sure if the following site is mentioned somewhere.
This is of great help.

http://www.hutzelman.com/home/hardware/mods/monitor/

[Compass]

Hey, guys,

I've been noticing this slowly encroaching brightness problem with my Sony G500 for the last year or so. I guess I was in a bit of denial because I love my monitor but it finally got to the point tonight where a game (System Shock 2) became unplayable because the monitor was just too bright (even with Brightness at 0). So I googled and found this thread.

Great info here on the resistor fix except... I don't know how to solder. Is soldering something that can be picked up fairly easily? Or should I not even try? I'm certainly willing to learn and I'd love to save my monitor. I don't suppose anyone on here who's done the fix lives in the los angeles area? I'd be happy to bring my monitor to you and pay what you think is fair.

Let me know, thanks.

Also, Slipkid, I went to the site you posted (http://www.alliedelec.com/) and searched on "6.2m OHM 1/2 watt" but it didn't come up with anything. I searched on "6.2 OHM" and it came up with like 20 listings. Do you have the exact part number you bought? I want to make sure I get the right thing. Thanks.

[TheSmJ]

Soldering is VERY easy. You can pick up a cheapo soldering iron at the dollar store (at least around here you can) which would be fine for the job.

I would reccomend getting a cheap "learn to solder" kit. Usually they consist of a bunch of electronic parts (such as capacitors, resisters, and in some cases a small IC) which usually teaches you how to solder while also making a bunch of LEDs blink on and off using the included components and an illustrated guide describing the process. You can usually find them for ~$5 (or more if they also come with an iron), just check around at hobby shops, and online.

[Compass]

Soldering is VERY easy. You can pick up a cheapo soldering iron at the dollar store (at least around here you can) which would be fine for the job.

I would reccomend getting a cheap "learn to solder" kit. Usually they consist of a bunch of electronic parts (such as capacitors, resisters, and in some cases a small IC) which usually teaches you how to solder while also making a bunch of LEDs blink on and off using the included components and an illustrated guide describing the process. You can usually find them for ~$5 (or more if they also come with an iron), just check around at hobby shops, and online.

Hey, thanks. I actually just got done looking on ebay and found a "learn to solder" kit before I read this. It's just like you describe. It has a flashing siren thingy that you first make. I think I'll get that one. About time I learned this skill anyway.

And I should be able to get the resitor at Radio Shack? Do I just say it's a "6.2M OHM 1/2 watt resistor" and that's all the info they need? Thanks again.

[slipkid]

Also, Slipkid, I went to the site you posted (http://www.alliedelec.com/) and searched on "6.2m OHM 1/2 watt" but it didn't come up with anything. I searched on "6.2 OHM" and it came up with like 20 listings. Do you have the exact part number you bought? I want to make sure I get the right thing. Thanks.

the 4.7M OHM are "stock #" 832-3362
the 6.2M OHM are "stock #" 832-3368

the catch is that they require you to buy them in units of 200 though (they only cost me $4.50 for each set, plus about $7 for the tax + shipping)

another catch - they are only supposed to accept orders of at least $20 (or something like that), so if you order from them call them rather than use the web, the woman i talked to was nice about it & let me just order what i needed

also, since i have over 150 extras of each, i'd be more than willing to give you some...contact me via a "private message" at the board

[slipkid]

And I should be able to get the resitor at Radio Shack? Do I just say it's a "6.2M OHM 1/2 watt resistor" and that's all the info they need? Thanks again.

yes, that is what you need to ask for BUT....

unfortunately the radio shack near me did not carry them, and when i called their "national" # they said they do not have them either - that they only go up to 1M

perhaps they lied to me though & your mileage may vary

ALSO - you may want to try 4.7Meg OHM 1/2 watt first though; on mine the 6.2M makes it a little too much on the dark side but i like it that way - supposedly these will probably burn out over time & if that happens i am going to try replacing it with a 4.7M one to see how that looks

[darkscion0]

I installed a 5.6M and the monitor seems too dark. I also picked up a 4.7M. Will the 4.7M make the monitor brighter or darker than the 5.6?

[TheSmJ]

Darker.

The higher the resistance, the brighter the picture.

[darkscion0]

Here's another question for yah.

After I put the 5.6M resistor on the monitor, it was really dark, but now the monitor is fairly light again. The weird thing is, that my brightness controls are backwards now. When I turn down the brightness, the monitor gets brighter? Any ideas?

[TheSmJ]

You have been doing the "Auto Color calibration" after you tried each resistor, right? If not, you could get funky stuff like that.

The monitor was pretty messed brightness/contrast wise after I performed the mod until I did this.

[darkscion0]

How do you do that? If it's what I think it is, then it might have been the thing that messed it up.

More details on my funky brightness controls. When you turn it up from 0 to 30 it gets brighter, then after that, the more you turn it up the darker it gets.

Any help would be appreciated.

You have been doing the "Auto Color calibration" after you tried each resistor, right? If not, you could get funky stuff like that.

The monitor was pretty messed brightness/contrast wise after I performed the mod until I did this.

[TheSmJ]

Well, because I dont have the monitor in front of me this moment, tell me what you did to mess it up, and I'll tell you if that's what I was talking about. ;)

[darkscion0]

Well, because I dont have the monitor in front of me this moment, tell me what you did to mess it up, and I'll tell you if that's what I was talking about. ;)

Went into the menu, and did the "Color Return??" option.

Is this the same thing you did?

[slipkid]

Darker.

The higher the resistance, the brighter the picture.

are you SURE?

i heard it was just the opposite in regards to making this modification

i was told to try 4.7M first, and if that doesn't make it dark enough THEN to try 6.2 (or 6.8M)

i decided to skip 4.7 and go right to 6.2 though since my monitor was so bright i couldn't imagine it being too dark, i wanted "maximum brightness reduction"

i don't claim to know anything for sure myself though! i would be interested in an explanation as to what's what & why it works that way

[slipkid]

Went into the menu, and did the "Color Return??" option.

Is this the same thing you did?


i just tried that too

my screen went black for about a minute, then came back

scared the sh*t out of me!

is that the "AUTO COLOR CALIBRATION" thing?? or how do you do that?

thanks!

[TheSmJ]

To use the auto color calibration thing, you need to have the monitor powered up (and not let it go into power save mode) for about an hour. You'll know it's warmed up, because once it's happy with it's “warmth” will it let you even select the option.

At which point, you can select the option, press (what I recall to be) the right arrow button, and the monitor will go black, and slowly (over the course of 10 seconds or so) fade to white. Then the picture will return (with a better color/brightness/contrast calibration) but you will still have to set the levels themselves, this only calibrates the scale.

[slipkid]

To use the auto color calibration thing, you need to have the monitor powered up (and not let it go into power save mode) for about an hour. You'll know it's warmed up, because once it's happy with it's “warmth” will it let you even select the option.

At which point, you can select the option, press (what I recall to be) the right arrow button, and the monitor will go black, and slowly (over the course of 10 seconds or so) fade to white. Then the picture will return (with a better color/brightness/contrast calibration) but you will still have to set the levels themselves, this only calibrates the scale.

thanks but....

my moniitor doesn't have an option to do that anywhere....i've searched all of the menus

i have a DELL P1110 / trinitron

[^Ben]

When i got my hyundai L70S it was way to bright but my eyes got used to it :D

[TheSmJ]

thanks but....

my moniitor doesn't have an option to do that anywhere....i've searched all of the menus

i have a DELL P1110 / trinitron


You sure? Check Color/sRGB tab/ and select "Color Return". Keep in mind it may say "Available after warmup", and be unselectable untill the message goes away.

[Straight_Man]

Jameco can source and supply milspec resistors (look for those with 5% variance or less, in the commercial catalog, and NOT the home catalog). As to where Navy Electro(nics) Tech got his at work, um, milspec supplier I would guess....

[darkscion0]

So anyone have any insight on why my brightness controls are all messed up?
When you increase it from 0 to 30 it gets brighter, but if you increase it after that, it actually gets darker.

I'm really confused. I'm wondering if I burned out the resistor with heat when I was soldering it on.

[stratacat]

Go to control panel then adobe gamma load a different monitor profile i am using the canon hdtv gamma 1.5 monitor phosphors (trinitron) check the single gamma only box desired Macintosh default 1.80 white point hardware 6500 k daylight
ADJUSTED SAME AS HARDWARE I'M USING THE SAME MONITOR AND NOW MY BLACKS ARE BLACK INSTEAD OF WASHED OUT GRAY !!!! HOPE THIS HELPS YA OUT !

[slipkid]

You sure? Check Color/sRGB tab/ and select "Color Return". Keep in mind it may say "Available after warmup", and be unselectable untill the message goes away.

right! i did do that b4, under the "EASY" color submenu

i just tried it with the RGB menu as well

i didn't realize that was what you meant by "AUTO COLOR CALIBRATION"


now here's a new perplexing thing

when i just went to do that under the "RGB" setting, now my monitor is really "faded".....it looks terrible....no brightness or color adjustments seem to help either


but i can go into the "COLOR" menus, and switch it to "EASY" instead of "RGB" & it looks alot better

also tried the 3 settings there, 9300, 6500, and 5000, and 9300 looks "best" but not great

i don't know what any of this stuff means but think i learned something - that there is alot more to this than i realized....

[Element]

Hello, I found this thread to be very helpful as I too have this monitor. I dont have a problem with it being too bright. My problem is that I get a shadow to the right of everything on screen. It is not the Convergence settings because the shadow has no color. Is there a controller inside the monitor that will adjust this? Or is this some signs of old age which can not be repaired? Also, how do I remove the cover from the back of the monitor. Thanks for your help :)

[profdlp]

Unless you know what you are doing, removing the cover of a monitor can be extremely dangerous. Monitors are not like a typical household appliance (including the computer itself), even unplugged there is enough stored voltage in there to kill you.

The shadow problem sounds like it could be interference from a power cable or a speaker. Try moving anything electrical or magnetic which is near your monitor and see if the shadow disappears or moves. :wave:

[partipilo]

Hello, I found this thread to be very helpful as I too have this monitor. I dont have a problem with it being too bright. My problem is that I get a shadow to the right of everything on screen. It is not the Convergence settings because the shadow has no color. Is there a controller inside the monitor that will adjust this? Or is this some signs of old age which can not be repaired? Also, how do I remove the cover from the back of the monitor. Thanks for your help :)

I am a new owner of a pre-owned Dell P1110 monitor. I picked it up from the trash pile at a friend's company. It had the brightness problem. I performed the resistor hack. I went to Radio Shack, and picked up a 100-pack assortment of cabon film resistors. In that package, was 5 1-megaohm resistors. I soldered them all in series to create 5 megaohms, and soldered it in. And now the monitor is good as new!!!!!! Thanks to all who have provided information on this.

On the note of your shadows, I also am getting shadows to the right of every dark contrast line. The reason this happens is because this particular monitor is very sensitive to interference. If you are using a poor quality cable (as I am, its a $20 best buy cheap cable), the ghosting is typical. Buying a high quality cable, I am told, will solve this problem. Here is the cable that I just ordered which I hope will solve the problem:

http://www.pccables.com/cgi-bin/orders6.cgi?action=Showitem&id=ID1811422&partno=00646&search=MONITOR&rsite=pccables.com&rcode=

That is PCCables part number 00646, 10FT. SVGA CABLE MONITOR HDDB15 M-M, $6.45. I will keep posted how this cable works for me when it arrives in the next few days.

[Element]

great infomation partipilo. I hope this cable works for me too. :)

[partipilo]

great infomation partipilo. I hope this cable works for me too. :)
That monitor cable worked! No more ghosting! Wheee!!~

[Element]

mine was shipped out today. I hope i have the same results.

[dsgd47]

Darker.

The higher the resistance, the brighter the picture.

I am going to try getting a 10 MOhm pot. (variable resistor) That way,
I can fine-tune it and also readjust later if the screen degrades again.

I will let you know what happens.

Dan

[Element]

The shadow is gone!! thanks for the tip. :D

[dsgd47]

I ended up just using a 5.1 MOhm resistor instead of the POT. BTW, I could
have gotten the same result by leaving in the existing resistor and soldering
in another 10 MOhm resistor in parallel, givinig a total resistance of 5 MOhm.

[Flyingpolarbear]

I was about to open up the case and change the resistor, when I came across a much simpler fix for the washed-out appearance on my Dell P991 Trinitron.

Go into the Option Menu and activate the Color Return feature (available after the monitor has warmed up).

This will recalibrate the grey levels and fix the brightness.

Before, I had to turn it down to 0 brightness. Now it's perfect at level 50.

No need to risk being fried by human bug zapper or obtain fancy service software.

Dan
www.autonvs.com

[Enverex]

One killer on this monitor is the convergence. How the hell do you set it up perfectly? I just can't seem to set it up perfectly :(

[Element]

Enverex your problem is most likely the cable you are using. Get the vga cable that is posted on page 3 of this thread. What you are expiriencing is most likely a shadow caused by your monitor cable and not the convergence settings. I had the same shadow and the cable posted in this thread fixed my shadowing. It is a high quality svga cable and VERY cheap as well. :)

[Enverex]

Enverex your problem is most likely the cable you are using. Get the vga cable that is posted on page 3 of this thread. What you are expiriencing is most likely a shadow caused by your monitor cable and not the convergence settings. I had the same shadow and the cable posted in this thread fixed my shadowing. It is a high quality svga cable and VERY cheap as well. :)

Location: Worcester, UK

It isn't shadowing either, is is either red or blue depending on where on the screen you look. If I set it up for the center of the screen then left will be one way out and the right will be the other way out.

[desolder]

I just stumbled on this thread via a google search. I bought an overly bright Dell P1100 from a guy for $15, figuring I could just adjust the internal brightness pot (I have experience with adjusting monitors having done it for a few months for the Navy). When I opened it up I was really suprised that there were NO pots to adjust it. After reading this thread I opened it up and soldered a 10Mohm resistor is parallel (forming effectively a 5Mohm resistor). PROBLEM SOLVED! Thank you whoever thought up this solution!

BTW, for this particular monitor the visible raster is completely extinguished (i.e. black background in non-techy speech) at a brightness of 5. I have my contrast set to 75.

[BladeRnR]

Well you never know what you're going to find when you use Google - fortunately it was this thread!

I (believe) I'm also suffering the brightness over time with my G500. Mine is a built in 2000 model (Confirmed if you hold down the center button after switching off the monitor, turning back on still holding it, then wait for the grey information box to pop up).

I'm wondering if anyone here can answer the following two questions:

1. Would the resistor value change for Australian 240/260Volt models?

2. Was this problem rectified with the G520 refresh model?

I'm adept at soldering and have no qualms about performing the task but the clear difference between U.S/Australian power standards is of obvious concern.

Great thread - glad I found it.

Regards :thumbsup:

P.S I had a 19" Sony G400PS before the G500 and this model DID NOT suffer this problem. I've always wondered why my G500 was overly bright no matter what I did with the Brightness/Gamma setting. I'm a PC Gamer and I always notice the difference in graphic detail between the G500 and the 400PS my Brother now uses.

[vonGrepa]

Hi.

Ive been looking at the guide on how to fix this problem. But there are something that gets me a bit confuses.

Looking at the http://www.hutzelman.com/home/hardware/mods/monitor/ guide
ull see that it says: "For reference, the original R459 resistor is supposed to be rated at 10 MOhm"
But if u look at the pictures u can see it, or parts off it.. and u can se a first BLUE and and a second YELLOW stripe.. This would give us the value 6 4.
When i look inside my monitor i see the rest of the strips and it is BLACK and GOLD. Thus telling me that this resistor is only 64Ohm
The new one that is solded on is BLUE, RED, GREEN, GOLD thus giving the value 6.2MOhm.

That meens that we go from 64 to 6200000 witch is quite a leep.

Can any one that has done this check the part that they took out to see what value it had? It would have been ok to go from 10MOhm to 6.2MOhm but going from 64 to 6200000 just seems to much...

Ill try the none playing with the resistors stuff to night and if it dont work ill try to change the resistor tomorrow.. but i would really like to hear what u guys have to say about this..

/vonGrepa

[Domie D]

[QUOTE=Don Froula]I fixed this problem on my P1110 last night in 2 minutes with NO need for hardware modifications or expensive Sony software. This may not work for all P1110's, but it sure cured the "too bright" problem for me.

- Turn off monitor.

- Hold down the center front panel "set" button. While holding this button down, swich on monitor. Continue holding the "set" button for 4 seconds, release and immediately push again.

- A password prompt will appear on screen. Enter "7711" using the monitor front panel set and arrow keys.

- A service mode screen will come up.

- Maneuver to the "Gray Scale" menu.

- Set "Brightness" to 50% and "Contrast" to 90% (these are the same controls as the normal menu).

- Adjust the "G2" setting down to the optimal brightness. This setting controls the feedback loop for all three R-G-B electron guns in the CRT. I set mine to a value of 125, but your optimal value may differ.

- Turn monitor off and on to exit service mode.

- Fine tune brightness and contrast with normal controls.

-That's it!

Don,
Did you do this with a Dell Brand P1110? I tried this with mine and couldn't get into the service mode....

Does anyone here have the Dell brand and has gotten into the service mode?
Can you please detail how to do it step by step?

I have tweaked my projection tv at home using the service menu instead of hosing it by adjusting the G2 trimpots... so that is why I like to use the service menu instead of removing the old resistor and soldering a new one.

I really like this monitor. I do have the "Color Return" set to on... the brightness does settle down automatically after the monitor is on for about 30 minutes. After this time the blacks are indeed black. I guess I could just live with this... however I like to tweak any electronic device I own.

By the way I found this thread like so many others by doing a search for this particular monitor. I've been enjoying this thread and this forum.

[slipkid]

Did you do this with a Dell Brand P1110? I tried this with mine and couldn't get into the service mode....

Does anyone here have the Dell brand and has gotten into the service mode?
Can you please detail how to do it step by step?


like you, i also have a DELL P1110

and the instructions posted above do not work for me either....it does nothing other than go into the usual setup menu

[Enverex]

I have a Dell P1110, also can't get into this special mode.

[deesto]

I have a Dell P1110, also can't get into this special mode.
Same here: Dell Trinitron P1110, screen too bright to look at even with settings down, and the 'set' button procedure doesn't seem to work (unless I'm using the wrong button? but I've tried them all).

I also found a copy of the WinDAS software, but it won't run; keeps complaining about missing DLL files I can't find (TRANSDLL.DLL).

A copy of the DAS software won't run either; keeps looking for a security key.

Finally, I tried to take the cover offf the monitor to poke around inside, but after taking out the two screws, I felt like I couldn't take the cover off without snapping something.

Of course, the first thing I did was try to get help from Dell, but as you might guess, I went through 3 weeks of back-and-forth emails before they finally told me there was nothing they can do to help.

This has been very frustrating, and I'm not better off than I was to begin with, as many of you are. Please, if anyone's got advice on what I can try, I'd appreciate it. Thank you.

[desolder]

The back cover will come off, but I had to REALLY force it. I ended up breaking the two retaining tabs on the top with a flat-blade screwdriver (You'll see two spots at the seam on the top where you can insert a screwdriver). Even with the top tabs broken, the two screws on the bottom seem to do a decent job of holding the cover on. That cover doesen't serve any structural purpose anyway, so the two screws are plenty good enough at holding it on.

[nstarz]

I think Domie D's monitor isn't the same one we have here.

[Xweebie]

I have a DELL (Sony) P1110 monitor with a brightness problem. The diagnosed problem is G2 (screen) is too high. G2 is controlled by IC404 PWM output pin 14. The pulses are filtered by C456 and this signal leads to IC405 op amp. The control of G2 is then done by Q406, Q407 and Q410. All of these components appear to be functional in my monitor. That would suggest the setting of the PWM is wrong. The adjustments in this monitor are under processor control and the data is stored in eeprom. I suppose the data has become corrupted or is missing. I am working on an interface unit to be used with the WinDAS software to allow adjustment of the data. If anyone has any information on the circuitry of the A-1500-819-A interface unit, it would save a lot of time and be very much appreciated. I have built an interface unit but the software tries to communicate, then responds ECS error, so something is not quite right yet. This monitor also has a convergence problem. It can be set at the middle but the edges must be compromised. The convergence rings on the tube are still firmly set, so I am thinking this can be adjusted with the software also. If anyone can supply any information, please contact me. Thank you.

[TheSmJ]

Doesn't look like I could tell you anything you don't already know, but please keep us posted! I now have both a "Compaq" P1100 and "Dell" P1110, and both have this connector on the back of the unit, so the software + cable interface schematics would be really nice to have around.

I had always assumed the resistor was just wearing out over time (due to a problem on the electronic component supplier's end, like all of the motherboards with leaking/bursting caps). I couldn't really imagine how data in an EEPROM could simply become "lost", especially on pretty much every P1100, 1110, or equivelent ever made, but I'm no expert when it comes to these types of semiconductors.

Out of curiosity, how'd you manage to find the software and your current cable to get yourself this far?

[Xweebie]

The software was obtained with the help of a previous poster (deesto). The software needs a bit of reverse-engineering if you know what I mean, to get past the security key. If you use the software, be sure to install the ActiveX Flexgrid control and register it, or the mdl files will be inaccessable. The resistor in my monitor is 2.2M just as it should be. The feedback/reference resistors all check to be the proper values also. Rather than change this resistor as has been suggested, I can connect a resistor of 1.5M from the CRT G2 point to ground and the voltage lowers to an acceptable range and monitor looks great (except for the bit of covergence at the sides). At this point it is still a mystery as to why all of these monitors seem to have the same failure, but eeproms are not the most reliable components. They have been known as a high failure rate part. Many RCA televisions using adjustment data in eeproms have had a very high failure rate (if you had a newer "dead" RCA television chances were that the eeprom was bad). When (if) I get this working, it will be interesting to find if the eeprom has actually failed or the data has changed.

[Xweebie]

Oh the cable....I built it. It's not working correctly yet. I don't know if I should invert the data or not, which control lines to use in what configuration, setup of the PC serial port....etc. yet. The monitor has only Ground, +5, Rxd and Txd on the interface connector. Note: Do not connect Rxs and Txd from PC serial port directly to the Rxd and Txd of the monitor. Voltage levels are different.

[TheSmJ]

Do you have an ociliscope? I've found them VERY usefull with building cables and the like without actually having the schematics (but a basic understanding of what I needed to go where). Too bad I haven't had access to one since highschool. :(

[Lamont242]

I have a Compaq p1100 that I got off Ebay for cheap and had the same problem too bright . Did the resistor mod first using the 4.7 mohm but was too dark, changed them out for 6.8 Mohms and results were spectacular, striking brilliant and vibrant colors. The monitor is now a pleasure to use. Greatly appreciate the advice. This job took only about 20 minutes once we figured out how to get into the case.

[rws70]

WOW
I love the internet ... I was given a Sony G500 a year ago and set up my old Sony 420GS on a second computer. I have always had to keep the G500's brightness at 0 and then also lower the brightness on my video card settings in order to use it and take advantage of the 21 inch screen. Unfortunately my video games have never looked good.

A friend came by and we played some cooperative Quake2 for old times sake and I just could not believe how much better his game looked on my old 420GS. I decided to search the web about the problem and found this fantastic thread.

1. The Sony DAS software calibration mentioned in previous post's sounds out of reach with all the special equipment needed etc.

2. I am getting ready to try the resistor change mentioned in several posts.

3. But before I do, I would love to be able to get into a Service mode if such a mode exists for the Sony G500 and make adjustments there. One post mentioned such a mode on the Dell version of this monitor but no one has confirmed being able to replicate his method. Has anyone been able to access a "Service Menu" on a Sony G500?

Many Thanks
RWS

[rws70]

I am going to buy the G500 service manual from a place online and see if there is Service Mode I can get into.

By the way ... if you are looking for another of these monitors I found a place that has several versions at good prices ...

http://www.azatek.com/pricelist.asp?CID=59

[gravix]

WOW!

I am typing this post on my newly-fixed monitor. It looks great! This monitor hasn't seen real, honest-to-god dark colors in years. I'm really impressed.

I soldered a 10M ohm resistor in parallel with the existing one, which turned out to be perfect for me.

Getting the plastic cover off the monitor was BY FAR the most difficult part of this procedure. The tabs at the top are a real bitch, and frankly I don't see how you can remove the cover without breaking them unless you have some sort of special tool. Thankfully, breaking them is no big deal, and the cover stays securely fastened without them (albeit much easier to remove once you take out the screws). Don't bother sticking a screwdriver in there, all I accomplished by doing that was tearing up the outer plastic.

The solder process was very easy, and I've never even soldered before. There are no other components close to the area in question on the board, so it's pretty much impossible to screw up.

The brightness on my monitor still goes down after it's had a chance to "warm up", so make sure you take that into account when you calibrate if yours does also.

Thanks so much to whoever posted this excellent fix! :thumbsup:

(By the way, I ordered the resistors from circuitspecialists.com (http://www.circuitspecialists.com/). They had the right stuff for cheap, but shipping cost a fortune.)

[slipkid]

The brightness on my monitor still goes down after it's had a chance to "warm up", so make sure you take that into account when you calibrate if yours does also.


very good point

i think it has been mentioned b4 up here but it bears repeating - don't be bummed if you make the mod and your monitor still looks all washed out after you first power up!! give it a few minutes

mine still looks horrible for the first 2 or 3 minutes b4 it starts to "settle down"

- jon -

[Shivian]

P.S.: "Colour", Thrax? What the hell are they teaching you over there at EMU?
How to spell obviously :p

Ps very useful info! :D
I'll definitely store this in the ol' memory banks for future reference.

[Robert67]

What is the best (overall cheapest) source for this golden egg of a resistor? It looks like RS supply only goes to 1M ohm. I get stuff from Ocean State Electronics (www.oselectronics.com), they have it for .20, but you have to bring your order over $10, which is easy, they have alot of neat stuff dirt cheap. I'd rather end up with yet another multimeter for $9.99 than 1,000 resistors....

[TheSmJ]

Jameco.com is another company I use. Not sure if there's a minimum order though.

Otherwise, get a new multimeter and a .20 resistor?

[thewick]

After I put the 5.6M resistor on the monitor, it was really dark, but now the monitor is fairly light again. The weird thing is, that my brightness controls are backwards now. When I turn down the brightness, the monitor gets brighter? Any ideas?
---
More details on my funky brightness controls. When you turn it up from 0 to 30 it gets brighter, then after that, the more you turn it up the darker it gets.

Any help would be appreciated.

I was wondering if anyone has found an answer to darkscion0's question.

I recently repaired my year 2000 Sony G500 by adding a 10MOhm resistor, and it worked great. The picture looks great, but I have the same situation where the brightness controls are funky, same as darkscion0's scenario.

If I leave it at around 50 brightness, it looks great, but I'd really like to know if there is a way to get the brightness control working like it used to.

After I soldered in the resistor, turned it on, and let it warm up, I did the "Image Restoration" under the "Easy" tab in the "color" menu. (Unfortunately, I didn't notice if the brightness control problem existed before I activated the restoration (but after the solder), and I haven't tried the "restoration" in the sRGB tab yet.)

Anyway, I am very happy with the image results, but I'd love to have a normal brightness control.

Any ideas?

[rws70]

I received the Service Manual for the Sony G500 and unfortunately the only "service mode" is using the DAS software mentioned before with a special cable to connect to the monitor.

So it looks like I need to do the resistor fix. I will note to see if my brightness works correct before and after I do the fix, as per the previous post.

The manual cost me $20 and is a 5 meg pdf file.

If anyone wants a copy, send me an email with an offer to help cover a share of the initial cost.

thanks
rws70

[gravix]

I recently repaired my year 2000 Sony G500 by adding a 10MOhm resistor, and it worked great. The picture looks great, but I have the same situation where the brightness controls are funky, same as darkscion0's scenario.

If I leave it at around 50 brightness, it looks great, but I'd really like to know if there is a way to get the brightness control working like it used to.

At a desktop resolution, (1600x1200) my brightness control now actually seems to alter the color temperature: down is redder (lower temp) and up is bluer (higher temp). 50 is where I keep it set. Contrast works as expected. At gaming resolutions (800x600, 1024x768) the brightness control seems to work correctly and a lower brightness (20-35 or thereabouts) is required to create an adequate black level. Bizzare I know, but strange things are to be expected when modifying complicated control circuitry.

One solution to the brightness control problem might entail soldering a potentiometer (variable resistor) in place of the R459 resistor that we replaced. Brightness could then be adjusted using the potentiometer knob on the rear of the monitor. However, I suspect that without a major circuit redesign or access to the Sony interface software the on-screen brightness control will be unrepairable. Because of the added resistor, it is operating completely out of the range it was designed for and unpredictable behavior is to be expected. If you really need a working brightness control, buying a new monitor may be the best alternative.

All that said, I'm still VERY happy I modded my monitor. It calibrates quite well using a brightness setting of 50.

[TheSmJ]

Changing the color levels on the OSD might be the best/only option to fix the funny tints you guys are having.

[john chiodo]

Hello,

I also have a C500 with similar wasted out screen problems. My monitor tends to lean on the green side, the screen is covers with a fine green tint, I can almost eliminate this by playing with the GBia and all but then the screen is to wasted out, so I decided to try the resistor fix.

I have a question about the "image restoration" in easy or sRGB mode. When
I select either of these the screen cycles thru bunch of colors mostly shades of white and the then the screen goes black and the light flashes. I then have to power cycle it, even after waiting 15 minutes. Is this normal?

I have some resistors on order so wil try the fix when I get them but wanted to see if my monitor is to far gone to expect any good results.

[rws70]

Ocean State Electronics has all the equipment you will need and it is an easy site to navigate.

Here is the page for the resistors:
http://www.oselectronics.com/ose_p70.htm#1/2W%20Carbon%20Film

... you need to scroll down to the 1.1M OHMS TO 20M OHMS section as
per Hutzelman's instructions on this web page:
http://www.hutzelman.com/home/hardware/mods/monitor/

Here is the page for a soldering iron and solder:
http://www.oselectronics.com/ose_p61.htm

Minimum order is $10.

[gravix]

Hello,

I have a question about the "image restoration" in easy or sRGB mode. When
I select either of these the screen cycles thru bunch of colors mostly shades of white and the then the screen goes black and the light flashes. I then have to power cycle it, even after waiting 15 minutes. Is this normal?


No. On my monitor, image restoration takes about 30 seconds, and then returns to the VGA picture. Sounds like yours has even more problems! Sorry... :(

[john chiodo]

bummer, I am going to try the resistor fix anyways. I should
get them in a few days.

I will post my results....



No. On my monitor, image restoration takes about 30 seconds, and then returns to the VGA picture. Sounds like yours has even more problems! Sorry... :(

[rws70]

SUCCESS! As a gamer, I can't say how happy I am to have the normal brightness restored to this Sony CDP-G500. As I mentioned before when I was given this monitor I was immediately disappointed in the lack of vibrant color I was accustomed to with my old 19 inch Sony 420GS. I was torn between a larger screen and good color.

Now I have both. The colors are fantastic again.

I used a 6.8M Ohm - 1/2 watt resistor. I could not get to the old resistor to clip it free so I had to heat up the solder points while I slipped a small flat screw driver tip between the old resistor and the circuit board and pried the old resistor completely off. Then I soldiered the new one on. I also took a sharp knife and scraped the green circuit board between the adjacent contacts for R457 and R459 (see screenshot) to make sure I had not created a connection between the two during my work on R459. (note the screen shot is from the web page that shows you how to do this:
http://www.hutzelman.com/home/hardware/mods/monitor/ )

http://www.hutzelman.com/home/hardware/mods/monitor/monitor3.jpg

This was not difficult ... I am not a big electronics guy ... don't be intimidated by soldiering or taking off the back of the Monitor. You can find parts and equipment at a local electronics store or check my earlier post for links.

I did not lose any brightness control functionality ... still goes from 0 to 100. My current setting is about 57. I used to have it set at 0 and that was too bright. I did not do any resets after the fix ... just turned up the brightness.

For those who lost some brightness control, is there a chance that when you soldiered R459 you accidentally made a connection between R459 and R457? Or perhaps the lower Ohm rating (lower than 6.8M) had something to do with it.

Thanks to all who contributed to this topic.

R.

PS. I have a Sony G400 ( CDP-G400 ) with the same brightness problem at work ... tempted to try fixing it over the week end or at least open it up and see if the inards are the same .

[nzmikey]

I have the same problem here too! I got this from a mate who brought it second hand but when he got it home it was way too bright .. Anyways he soldered that resistor on but no gets just a black screen..anyone got any ideas?

Also is there meant to be anything soldered from GND to G2?

Thanks,
Mike
badfan@orcon.net.nz

[Swift1]

Hi Guys. I too have the same problem where my G500 is too bright. But i have a second problem where the green cast is way too high as well. I actually have to have my Green set to 0 to get rid of it, but it still seems to be there. I don't remember it being there when i first bought it.

My Image Restoration isn't working either. I have the same problem as you john chiodo. Monitor turns off and i actually have to unplug it to get it to turn on as the light just keeps blinking orange.

Will the resistor fix the green cast problem or is this another issue with this monitor that requires another fix?

I'm really upset about all this since the monitor is actually unreal and physically looks great too, unlike the G520 which to me is cheap looking. Upgrading to an LCD is also not an option atm as picture quality too me is a number one priority and they have yet to catch up to CRT.

Bottom line is i'd really like to get this monitor working the way it's supposed to :(

[rws70]

Regarding the Green Hue ... I have seen that on a Trinitron flat screen G400 at work. Have not tried the resistor fix on it. Am also curious if it will help. As no one is using the monitor now I might give it a try but I don't know if it will be anytime soon as I busy at work.

Regarding the black screen mentioned ... no one has mentioned that before on this thread ... all have had success ... did you use the correct Mohm and not a simple ohm resistor?

cheers
RS

ps: after a week I played again with my friend in a coop game and now my G500 looks better than my old 19 inch 420GS ... still very pleased.

[primeshaw]

Thanx a bunch for the info, it looks perfect now.
It was the 6.8M ohm resitor that worked.
I have 3 more to fix!!!
Anyone can email me at doug@NOSPAMprimeshaw.com (remove the NOSPAM)

for information.

:)

Email edited by Spinner

[sabas]

:confused: would somebody tell me where the plastic tabs of dell p1110 is?
THX!

[csimon]

Haha.. I work for the State of Louisiana.. .

...and you admit that??? ;D LOL

j/k I do too!

[primeshaw]

:confused: would somebody tell me where the plastic tabs of dell p1110 is?
THX!

please be more specific, re: plastic tabs.

[sabas]

please be more specific, re: plastic tabs.
i'd like to remove the monitor case,after remove the only two screws of the monitor,i still can't remove the case .sb said there are two plastic tabs,but i can't fint it :confused:

[primeshaw]

i'd like to remove the monitor case,after remove the only two screws of the monitor,i still can't remove the case .sb said there are two plastic tabs,but i can't fint it :confused:

Dont do what I did, "force it off"!
There are two tabs located about 3" in from each side on the top.
you need to force the plastic cabinet down about a 1/8" of an inch to unsecure this. BAD design by the way!
Let me measure the exaxt place for you...
Place a rigid slim object like butter knife 3-1/8" from the edge.
Wedge it in with the separation.
Push down about 1/8" like I said, per side and it should come off cleanly.
What are you doing inside anyways???

[Klom Dark]

Hi Guys. I too have the same problem where my G500 is too bright. But i have a second problem where the green cast is way too high as well. I actually have to have my Green set to 0 to get rid of it, but it still seems to be there. I don't remember it being there when i first bought it.

My Image Restoration isn't working either. I have the same problem as you john chiodo. Monitor turns off and i actually have to unplug it to get it to turn on as the light just keeps blinking orange.

Will the resistor fix the green cast problem or is this another issue with this monitor that requires another fix?

I'm really upset about all this since the monitor is actually unreal and physically looks great too, unlike the G520 which to me is cheap looking. Upgrading to an LCD is also not an option atm as picture quality too me is a number one priority and they have yet to catch up to CRT.

Bottom line is i'd really like to get this monitor working the way it's supposed to :(
Here's what I've done to get an almost perfect picture out of a P1110 that started out too bright and with a weird tint, without having to do any surgery on the monitor:

- Set Brightness to 0
- Set Contrast to 75

- Open the configuration menu, go to Color, then select Expert.
- From Expert, down-arrow once to get to Color Temperature selection. (I've found my best results at the highest setting (9500 degrees I believe, but the next step changes the display from 9500 to a 3 with three dots next to it instead, so I don't remember what it originally said.)
- After selecting color temperature, down-arrow again to G BIAS.
- Set G BIAS to 0

Exit out, that's the best I've done without ripping the monitor open.

[Komete]

...and you admit that??? ;D LOL

j/k I do too!

Watch out now I work for OGB you're covarage might change all of a sudden :P

Thanks to Blanco we had a few extra day off's durring the hollidays :)

[Mesuge]

Hi Guys!
This thread is really something..
I've noticed that there are probably other quality 21" monitors based on this sony trinitron chasis - so for instance this sexy IBM P260 suffers exactly the same problem.. I've google it and it turns out that someone successfully applied this resistor hack as well but I'd like to hear some more stories on this particular IBM - anybody? :scratch:

Thanks

------
I bought an IBM P260 21" monitor. It is STILL advertised as UNUSED. It is STILL listed as made in April 2001. Mine was made in November 2000 and is WELL USED. The brightness was beyond the range of the external controls, I had to solder in a resistor inside thanks to info I got from the internet.

[rws70]

It has been one month since I changed the resistor to a 6.8 Mohm. Monitor is still working fine ... brightness is set at 56 where I used to run it at 0.

See my earlier posts for details. Finished Half-Life2 in beautiful color ...

RS

[FormFactor]

Hi there, I have no fix for you but at my work we have 320 dell 21 inch or 20 inch flat screens and every monitors brightness and color are different. Some have a faded look others have rich dark look. I have messed with about 20 or so of them trying see if I could tweek them to be the same and it is a no go. They came with a 3 year warrenty. I would try seeing if you can send it back in and get a replacement. You might get lucky and get one that hits 6500k perfectly. RIght now I'm stuck on an overbright faded one. I'll probably be trading it out with a coworkers when they are not looking lmao or ask for a swap.


LOL I had a 20 inch dell FP at work that did that and I switched it out at night with another employee, but he busted me out to the boss man..... it was funny


I would call dell, they should have no problem replacing it....


If not, most video drivers have display gama/color tweaking options that might get you by.

[rickst29]

They show 2 watt, 500V, 2% tolerance resistors on the following page:
http://www.action-electronics.com/resist2w.htm

Only $1 per resistor, and USPS shipping for $3.90. They don't guarantee to have them all in stock, but the price can't be beat... and the 500V, 2W ratings beat the other resistors which I see in this thread.

Sizes shown for the 'replacement approach' include 4.7M, 5.1, 5.6, 6.2, and 6.8M.

I just put in an order for the 'put another in parallel on the top side' approach. Sizes shown include 10M (for a net resistance 5.0M), 11M, 12M (net 5.45), 13M, 14M, 15M (net 6.0M), 16M (net 6.154M), 18M (net 6.42M), (net 6.67M), and 22M (net 6.875, might not be enough change for most of us).

My monitor is quite washed out, so I'm going with the 16M resistor (for a net resistance of slightly less than 6.2). I'll let you all know if/when it shows up, or if I have to switch to a different (in-stock) size.

Sincerely, Rick

[zztopless]

Hi, I tried the fix today, but it made the monitor way too dark, but more interestingly, it now has a lot of shadowing happening (especially noticable on text). Could this just be because the resistance I used was too low (5.6)? I am going to try 6.8 tomorrow, is the best way to just re-heat the solders, take off the existing resitor, then put the new one on?

Here are some pics of my work, if anyone can see any obvious erros, please let me know (the existing resistor underneath cut eithout any problems).

http://www.complete-marketing.net/board1.jpg
http://www.complete-marketing.net/board2.jpg

[vjsm]

Hi Folks,

Here I'm having a Dell P1110 at the other end of brightness range! A friend of mine bought this used early 2003, used for a couple of months, and took out of service because it became extremely dark. With default settings can't see anything unless the room is very dark. I had gotten it barely usable by setting Brightness=100, Contrast =100, and R/G/B Bias & Gain to 100 in Color: Expert.

The notorious "R459" is in place, and looks OK. My little DVM only measures upto 2MOhm, and R459 is beyond range. FBT focus controls work. Doesn't look like anyone worked on it before. OSD "Information" gives
SER NO: 9171R1330LZY
MANUFACTURED: 2001-09
VER: 1.320 / CS: CC2F
whereas back of the cover says Ser No: 2362154 and Mfd: March, 2001. Is this contradiction normal for Dell P1110's made by Sony?

The only trick I've not been able to do yet is the "Color Return". The one time I did it, screen went blank, as to be expected, but I panicked and turned it off. I turned it back on right away, but it seemed to require a fresh chance to warm-up.

After I figured out my way through the front panel, I found the following Docs on Dell P1110 which may be of use to others as well:

Front Panel/Menus: http://support.dell.com/support/edocs/monitors/p1110/En/controls.htm
Troubleshooting : http://support.ap.dell.com/docs/monitors/p1110/En/trouble.htm
P1110 Guide Index: http://support.dell.com/support/edocs/monitors/p1110/En/index.htm

I'll let you know if the "Color Return" helped. Does this monitor seem to be having a hardware problem outside "R459"? :confused: Thanks in advance for any responses.

[TheSmJ]

zztopless: Try a higher resistor of a higher resistance, and don't forget to use color return after you make any changes ("Yes" to both of your questions).

vjsm: Also try increasing the resistance of the resistor.

[vjsm]

vjsm: Also try increasing the resistance of the resistor.

Thanks to The Sm "J". I 'll put another resistor in series with original 10M, and let you know.

In the meantime, "Color Return" worked bothways! The first time I did it, the colors were nice, sufficiently bright, but, the brightness control was messed-up in exactly the same way "darkscion0" described in post #53. Brightness starts to decrease after 30% ! I notice that sRGB Brightness=29 and Contrast=89, both before and after "Color Return"s.

The worst part is, in trying to fix brightness scale, I did Color Return again (several times), and now the colors are messed-up too; not enough Red. If I match colors using Bias/Gain, then not bright enough. I should have Locked the controls after first Color Return :o .

Here's another(perhaps unrelated) observation (both before-and-after):
With no video, press "Menu" button for 3 sec. Screen becomes uniform slightly green-tinted dark grey, and front panel LED flashes alternate Green and Orange. Does this indicate some error condition?

Also while the Dell manual says "The picture disappears while the color is being restored (about 2 seconds)", this one takes almost 30 seconds to do Color Return.

I'd try increasing R459 next; curious just what would happen if I tried it with open R459 :confused: ?

[radio]

Do all the p1110's have this problem? I can get one manufactured after 2000, in 2001 to 2002. Are these still lickly to have a problem?

[radio]

Also i might have just found a clue as to the root cause of the problem, I found this on Geek.comIt seems the P1110 uses an obsolete driver chip for brightness control. :

I quote :

"
ohh.. and for those shopping in the 21" range, I determined that the GDM-5410 is much better than the DELL P1110 because the dell uses some obsolete driver chip for the brightness control. you'll know its dead when you turn the brightness all the way down and your blacks still look gray. if you do get a P1110 better look long and hard for that chip cause your gonna need it! the Sun monitor may use the same chip but I haven't seen as many dead ones as dell. - by k2h"

[radio]

Found this also ;)


This is a known problem with the Dell P1110, and there is a hardware
fix to resolve it. Get someone else to do this if you are not
comfortable/safe working inside a monitor. Get the download from the
Sony section at this site...
http://www.geocities.com/monitorss/schematics.html

[TheSmJ]

"
ohh.. and for those shopping in the 21" range, I determined that the GDM-5410 is much better than the DELL P1110 because the dell uses some obsolete driver chip for the brightness control. you'll know its dead when you turn the brightness all the way down and your blacks still look gray. if you do get a P1110 better look long and hard for that chip cause your gonna need it! the Sun monitor may use the same chip but I haven't seen as many dead ones as dell. - by k2h"[/QUOTE]


The problem has nothing to do with a "driver chip", but a resistor drifting out of spec. The "right way" to fix the problem is to connect the small port on the back of the monitor to the PC's serial port and adjust it from there. Problem is only Sony repair shops have such a cable.

EDIT: I should also add that these Dell branded monitors aren't the only ones with the problem. The Compaq P1100 has the same issue, as does the Sony monitor all of these are based off of (can't think of it's model # at the moment).

[RandomElectron]

HI,

Did you ever succeed in making a cable for the sony das software? How about getting windas to run?

Regards



The software was obtained with the help of a previous poster (deesto). The software needs a bit of reverse-engineering if you know what I mean, to get past the security key. If you use the software, be sure to install the ActiveX Flexgrid control and register it, or the mdl files will be inaccessable. The resistor in my monitor is 2.2M just as it should be. The feedback/reference resistors all check to be the proper values also. Rather than change this resistor as has been suggested, I can connect a resistor of 1.5M from the CRT G2 point to ground and the voltage lowers to an acceptable range and monitor looks great (except for the bit of covergence at the sides). At this point it is still a mystery as to why all of these monitors seem to have the same failure, but eeproms are not the most reliable components. They have been known as a high failure rate part. Many RCA televisions using adjustment data in eeproms have had a very high failure rate (if you had a newer "dead" RCA television chances were that the eeprom was bad). When (if) I get this working, it will be interesting to find if the eeprom has actually failed or the data has changed.

[radio]

yes okey but do the post 2000 models still suffer from this problem? Surly sony must have herd about it and fixed this in manufacturing!

[Xweebie]

Yes I did. I can adjust all parameters available under digital control. I can adjust G2 voltage via setting the proper value to the PWM. Feel free to contact me for more information.

[TheSmJ]

Yes I did. I can adjust all parameters available under digital control. I can adjust G2 voltage via setting the proper value to the PWM. Feel free to contact me for more information.


If you could hook me up with the schematics of the cable and the software that'd be SWEET! Please email me the stuff to thesmj*AT*gmail*DOT*com.

[zztopless]

For the resistor mod, should one be using 1/4w resistors or 1w ?

[radio]

So nobody actually knows if the entire range manufactured from 1999 to 2002? have this problem, Im going to buy a post 2000 model but not if its gonna have this fault.

[TheSmJ]

So nobody actually knows if the entire range manufactured from 1999 to 2002? have this problem, Im going to buy a post 2000 model but not if its gonna have this fault.

I have no idea.

[vjsm]

So nobody actually knows if the entire range manufactured from 1999 to 2002? have this problem, Im going to buy a post 2000 model but not if its gonna have this fault.
My Dell P1110 has EPROM date 9-2001, and it has the opposite problem (too dark)! Apparently I'm the only poster in this thread who is in this category. May be Sony over-corrected the pre-2000 defect ?!

Please read posts # 116 & 118 for my situation. I'm still waiting to try the "R459 fix" - in my case by adding more resistance. Will let you guys know.

"Radio", if I see a well-used 3-year old unit that still works well, then I'd buy it. The defect probably should have manifested by now.

[Xweebie]

My Dell P1110 has EPROM date 9-2001, and it has the opposite problem (too dark)! Apparently I'm the only poster in this thread who is in this category.


If your screen is too dark, then maybe your G2 is too low. Do you have a way to measure it (100-600v)? Be aware input impedence of meter would affect the reading. How about your filament voltage? If trying the resistor fix, the resistor would be in parallel.
+R (series) = lower G2 / -R (parallel) = higher G2.
Your post 118 states that you now have brightness returned? In any case, it's best to know what V G2 is, so you know if you are dealing with that problem or something else.

For others, when G2 is much too high, scanlines may be visible and the monitor may go into shutdown after a short period.

[Xweebie]

For those interested in the repair and adjustment of this monitor through the interface and software:
Look at the rear of your monitor and find the small pop out plug (right side).
Pop off the cover and the interface connector should be visible there. With a proper cable, all adjustments can be made through this interface. The adjustment of G2 can be made, repairing the brightness problem of these monitors. I will set up a site pertaining to this somewhere (probably Geocities) in the next couple of weeks and post the link here.

[TheSmJ]

Thank you Xweebie. Have you received the PM I sent you?

[radio]

Cool geat idea, Id imagine that site would solve alot of peoples problems :thumbsup:

[zztopless]

But where can we get the connector from?

[Rustedmetal]

i can get the black to be black on my Dell p1110, but i loose detail from do so, especially in the dark areas of a video.

will the fix for the p1110 get rid of the light grey while not degrade the details in the dark areas of a picture?

it seems the only resistor that i can find locally is a 10m ohm 1/4w from radio shack. is that ok for the fix?

Thanks

[vjsm]

If your screen is too dark, then maybe your G2 is too low. Do you have a way to measure it (100-600v)? Be aware input impedence of meter would affect the reading. How about your filament voltage? ...
Xweebie, my meter is a beginners' DT-830B branded "C E M", and sure enough the picture dies when I try to measure G2, both on 200V & 1000V scales. Anyway here are the values(obviously too low):
with no video, G2=98 V
with video(Win98 @800x600), G2=87 V.
These need to be adjusted to take account of meter impedence, if at all possible. I don't know which one is Filament :confused: , but also measured G1=0 V, H1=5.4 V, H2=0 V. KR, KG & KB all around 75-85 V.
BTW, present status of the monitor is: very readable but colors distorted after Color Return, brightness scale messed up(going down after 30%).

Sorry that I couldn't try the "R459 fix" yet, as I'm still looking for my misplaced soldering iron(haven't used it in months!). Have a good weekend, everybody!

[Xenosss]

well guys i have tried the resistor mod with inital success, a perfect black level!
There are some problems associated with colour gain and bias though. So, a tint in a certain colour will become apparent, easily recitified via onscreen menu.

My advice to you should implement this "fix" is NOT use image restoration feature(sony g500 model) ever again as this is the root of the problem.In my experience ,somehow, it writes flaky data to the eprom with continual use of this feature dominant tints alternate and you're back to square one with brightness issue.

hope this assists someone.

seeya

[zeibin]

Hi there,

I got a Dell P1110 for cheap, but with this problem. Probably gonna do the resistor trick since I'm not sure I'll have the equipment to do the DAS stuff.

Does anyone know of any long-term effects changing the resistors out might have? Something tells me that halving a resistance tends to do things like, say, double a current, which isn't normally a good thing (even if the resistor's power rating is adequate, who knows what the rest of the circuit can handle). Hence, adjusting G2 natively is probably the best route.

Thoughts?

Thanks in advance,

dave

[primesuspect]

Make sure everybody who reads this checks out this site (http://www.joinfolding.com). it has some very helpful information. You can really help out short-media too :)

[Xweebie]

Primesuspect - I saw and am considering your offer, however I don't know yet if response will warrant the banner. I have manufactured some interface units. At the moment, they will be available in limited quantities. The process of repairing these monitors is now in a "testing" phase. During the testing, all that is needed for the repair will be offered at reduced prices. I don't know if Short-Media will allow me to post a link or prices here, so I will wait for your response. Thank you.

[bimp]

I just did the monitor fix last night and it worked!!!

Much thanks to slipkid for sending me a few of his spare resistors.

Now my calibrated G500 monitor has a brightness level of 79 - a vast improvment from 3!!!

I first tried the 4.7 resistor but that turned out way too dark. I then went to the 6.2 and that did it!!

[Ackriss]

Hello All,

What a Great tread!!!

I to have a Dell p1110 with the brightness issue. I am going to try the resistor swap to fix it, but the Sony calibration software intrigued me and I would like to try it first. .

I did a bit of searching around the net and I do believe I have found a location to get both WinDAS and DaS(Dos Ver.). . I am not sure if it is allowed to post links to where I found the files. . So I will refrain from that at this moment.

All that is needed for me now is the interface cable.
(Edit) And A hardware dongle hack of sorts =/
seems this software requires a key/dongle attached to the LPT port =p


Xweebie, are you going to post the schematics for the cable?

[TheSmJ]

Xweebie, are you going to post the schematics for the cable?

I am awaiting the schematics for this cable myself as well.

[mrtube]

i too would love one of these cables, either assembled, or just a schematic\parts list

we have a P1110 in here next to a new mitsubishi 22" and it looks to me like the p1110 "CAN" look better than the mitsu if its brightness was right

and even tho its meaningless i found out, holding in the center or contrast up button on power on, displays the monitors information, and hitting reset while its displayed resets it :)
so now my monitor is a , nothing, made in 1990, with no serial number..... but it seems thats all it effected

i will also need a copy of the sony software tho... :(

[Orlov]

Hello, I have a Dell P791 with mitsubishi natural flat tube which has the same brightness problem, with the green cast... do you have any idea where to mount the resistor... please help me... it is reaaalllly bugging me :shakehead

Thnx

[rickst29]

....

it seems the only resistor that i can find locally is a 10m ohm 1/4w from radio shack. is that ok for the fix?


I think that 10M on the backside (leaving the other 10M in place on the other side) might be too bright: Your total resistance for the parallel 10's is only 5M. (I hope that you don't mean to REPLACE the one 10M with another, that accomplishes nothing). I tried to order a 16M for the parallel approach, but it languished as "backorder" for several weeks. The firm eventually sent me a pair of 6.8M 2W resistors for the standard "cut out the old one first" approach.

This higher-resistance-than-most-replacements was not quite enough change to yield a good brightness level at "50", I'm now running at "37". So a slightly lower resistance would have been better. Many people on this Thread have used a 6.2M resistor, and most of them are delighted. I think that a 6.2M would have been perfect for my monitor.

I'd special order a 6.2M from your Radio Shack, and wait for it. 10M is no worky, either as a replacement or in parallel. My 2W voltage/power rating was definitely overkill, 1/2W is plenty. 1/4W? Maybe, but I'd spend the extra nickel to assure that I only have to fix it once.

[rickst29]

They show 2 watt, 500V, 2% tolerance resistors on the following page:
http://www.action-electronics.com/resist2w.htm

Only $1 per resistor, and USPS shipping for $3.90. They don't guarantee to have them all in stock, but the price can't be beat... and the 500V, 2W ratings beat the other resistors which I see in this thread.

Sizes shown for the 'replacement approach' include 4.7M, 5.1, 5.6, 6.2, and 6.8M.

I just put in an order for the 'put another in parallel on the top side' approach. My monitor is quite washed out, so I'm going with the 16M resistor (for a net resistance of slightly less than 6.2). I'll let you all know if/when it shows up, or if I have to switch to a different (in-stock) size.
Sincerely, Rick

Well, the 16M went Backorder for a long time. When I inquired about the status, they very nicely sent me a pair a 6.8M 2Ws at no charge. With a 6.8M, I'm now running with brightness at "38". Maybe 6.2M or 6.5M would be close to "50", but this looks GREAT, and I'm not gonna change it. I'm running with all Bias values at 50, Red Gain=86 (default for 6500K), Green and Blue gain at 80 (higher than the defaults for 6500K). I chose these setting visually, I'm not using any color setting tools (yet).

[rickst29]

For the resistor mod, should one be using 1/4w resistors or 1w ?

I'd go 1W. With the "cause" being reported as "the resistor goes out of spec" in a couple of posts on this thread, you REALLY shouldn't want to save a nickel now and be forced to do it again in a couple years.

I actually used a 2W, but that's probably overkill. I have no idea of the voltage which is present across this connection.

[TaZMaNiaK]

The P1100 is on my short list of monitors that I'm considering buying, and I found this forum doing research on it.. (There is a seller on Ebay - cosmicdallas - selling 6 month warranty, A1 factory refurbs for $159 & free shipping... FYI :) ).. It's nice to know that this is a known problem that has a simple solution.. All you guys that have this (The Dell version), Are you happy with it? Since it's an old model, I can't go look at it in a store before I order it, and I don't want to have to pay to ship it back if I don't like it. The major thing I want to know is how visible/annoying are the aperture grille wire shadows, and how many are there? I've never used a Trinitron monitor, and from what I've read it's basically a 50/50 split whether it annoys people or not. I've heard the Trinitrons are a treat to look at though, compared to shadow mask monitors, and I've been living with a now permanent gauss mark on my old screen for a while so I should be able to deal with the shadows.

Thanks guys!

By the way, if you can get 1% Military spec resistors to do the fix, use them.. They cost a little more, but they're basically guaranteed to never fail again.. :thumbsup:

Matt
(I know this is a little off topic, sorry... :cool: )

[TheSmJ]

I bought my P1100 without ever having seen it before in person, and am very, very happy with it!

I've also never seen a Trinitron monitor before, and to be honest I never even started to notice the lines until I had read that they were there in the first place. Also, they are IMPOSSIBLE to see unless you are staring at a mostly white screen, and are activly looking for them.

[Thrax]

Yeah, unless you're specifically looking for the lines, and you're on a near/pure-white background, you're never going to see them.

[mrtube]

you get used to the lines after awhile, they become "normal"
the benefits of the trinitron tube by far outweigh the bad things
they are FAR brighter, have far less moire problems, and can produce much higher resolutions
i swear by them, every shadowmask tube ive had ive hated, and every sony\mitsu tube ive had that was appe grille i loved.

ignore the lines, and get used to them, youll never go back......
they arnt dark, nor big

super HAIR THIN light "grey" lines id call them if your looking at a bright backround
but hey, its like a friend of mine said
you can have 2 small lines from a trinitron tube, or thousands from a shadow mask, take your pick...

[rws70]

I have the Sony CDP-G500.

Did the resistor swap on Jan 17, 05. Very successful ... games are much better looking. See Post 99 in this thread for details. Used 6.8M Ohm - 1/2 watt resistor. The color was great after the fix, so I did not monkey with the Image Restoration option. I would agree with an earlier post, once you get the resistor changed and it looks good, don't do the Image Restoration or Color Reset function.

My brightness is now down to 30 ish so you might want to try the next step down in resistor ... 6.2M Ohm ... In my Post # 96 I have a links to this place for all the supplies, here is the link for the resistors.
http://www.oselectronics.com/ose_p70.htm#1/2W%20Carbon%20Film

I like the color settings recommended by a previous post:

All three BIAS set to 50
Red Gain set to 86
Blue Gain set to 80
Green Gain st to 80

Finally if you want a second 21 inch, this place has lot's of them:
http://www.azatek.com/pricelist.asp?CID=59

Looking forward to Xweebie's web site on how to adjust using cable and sofware.

Cheers
RS

[primesuspect]

If this thread has helped you at all, please consider joining a project which is free, fun, and could help save lives:

www.joinfolding.com

[Mattosaur]

Hi All

I've put up with my overly bright monitor for a few years and don't know why I didn't try to fix it earlier. I've been using a 21" glass monitor filter and some fiddling with the nView brightness/gamma/contrast settings. The damper wires in mine have been very noticable due to this which is annoying but after I while I didn't notice them as much but they were still there.

Anyway I found this site and http://www.hutzelman.com/home/hardware/mods/monitor and thought hell I'll give it a go, as I'd taken my 17" Dell Flat Panel home for the weekend to try on gaming and movies and it was great. I went and bought a cheap soldering iron and a couple of 5M6 1w Carbon Film resistors from Dicksmiths Electronics. Cutting the old resistor of was a bit tricky but I managed with my tiny pocket knife scissors eventually. I put some paper under the board and heated the old solder out and put the new resistor in the holes and soldered it in (this is probably not how to do it but I've never soldered anything before but it seemed to work fine) Anyway I re-assembled plugged it in turned it on and it was awesome way darker, no visible damper wires and I could then move the brightness from 0 up to 80 and get a decent picture and remove my nView settings.

So thanks guys this is now awesome and I won't need to replace it as I was planning.

So anyone thinking should I try this go for it was easy and it works. :thumbsup:

As for the Sony software I had a look and you can get a DOS version from http://www.eserviceinfo.com/

namely
http://www.eserviceinfo.com/downloadsm/2486/Sony_DAS%20J4.2.1..html
http://www.eserviceinfo.com/downloadsm/2487/Sony_DAS%20J4.2.1..html

the download also includes a PDF guide to the software and the cabling required which is non-standard. Maybe this will be of use to someone.

Matt

[TheSmJ]

Well I looked at the cabling and software, but I really cannot make heads or tales of either one.

I see the schematics are designed for a DB25 serial port, but I haven't had one on a PC in at least 5 years. Easy enough to convert it to DB9 though. As for the end that's supposed to connect to the monitor, I still don’t know which pin is supposed to go where.

All the software stuff in the RARs are confusing as well. Am I supposed to install it using the install.exe, or unzip the files from the zip files the RAR contains? When I look through the software, I don't see any model that looks anything like the P1100 or P1110.

Can anyone else figure this out?

[larswedde]

Have just bought a used Dell P1110 and got pretty sad when I discovered the Brightness problem. Soon I learned that a transistor could be replaced. Now I am not an expert so I was pretty resistant to that option.

Looking at Dell's homepage I found the solution: Open Menu -> Color -> Set Color return to "ON". Note that this is only possible after monitor has been turned on for ½ an hour. Screen is auto adjusting and now my screen is looking perfect. :)

[B@RE]

Hi guys. I've repaired some SONY GDM monitors and others OEM wich are all Sony made inside. I´ve done the completelly adj some times using Sony's sotwares (windas wincats),and I can tell you that it was not easy even if you have all the stuff needed (the key, pattern generator,etc.).
I've been following this thread for a while and want to share something.
Usually the low bright is caused by this two failures. The resistor's failure you all have been talk about or the eeprom memory faulty.
The First case could be solved if you replace the faulty resistor for a new one with the same resistance and would be better if the new one used had a higher potency ratio (Watts).To find the Faulty resistor, please be sure that the monitor is turned off locate at the A board (the one behind the tube) you must find the G2 Pin at the picture tube socket folowing the track you find the resistors of some Mega ohms, disconect one side from de board and mesure with a multmeter.If the resistor are ok then the software would be really good ,but I can't help with that yet,problems with the key thing.
Roughlly talking,it works this way,there is usually a big conector which brings aproximately 1000V tho the socket board this 1000v must be divided to reach the perfect value of G2 Voltage.This is done through this mega resistors and a couple of transistor which has it's resistance controled by a PWM.
Then here goes My tip (note, I Have Not done it before) if you find a Potenciometer usually found in that oldests Tv sets of tens of mega ohms 1/2 Watts or more you can put it in the trasistor place or design a voltage divider to replace the hole circuit so you will be able to adj the G2 value to best performance.If someone give me some pictures from the socket board I can try to show you how.

[rws70]

Great post by Mattosaur ... thanks!

To B@RE,
Thanks for attempting to share your technical knowledge. Have you seen the pictures on the hutlzeman fix web page? (here is the link)
http://www.hutzelman.com/home/hardware/mods/monitor/

Are you saying you support hutzelman's fix procedure since using the adjustment software is too complex? Can you make your comments again using the photo's on hutzelman's fix page (or the one I've inserted below) as reference?

Thanks!
RS

http://www.hutzelman.com/home/hardware/mods/monitor/monitor3.jpg

[GTI]

I just fixed mine. I used a 10 Mohm 1/4 watt resistor (couldn't find any 1/2 watt or 1 watt at my local electronics store and hutzelman's picture looked like a 1/4 watt). I soldered it in parallel with the existing one (I think that one is 1/2 watt) and now I can finally see black on my monitor. :thumbsup:

The hardest part was getting the damn plastic cover off. After scratching the hell outta everything it was like "Oh, that's how it comes off". Basically remove the 2 screws. Get something like a putty knife and pop it in at the top and bottom of the sides of the monitor to free the tabs. Then use something like a flat head screwdriver and push down on the two tabs on the top of the monitor. You should be able to see those tabs on the top of the monitor easily.

The resistors only cost me $2 for 100. To think that a 2 cent resistor saved my monitor from the dumpster. I would have just bought something newer instead of spending the money at the repair shop. Yeah most of the cost would be the diagnostics. Thanks to everyone here and also to the hutzelman web site :thumbsup:

[ppSM]

Thanks.

I just finished the mod/repair on my P1110 and the black is rich and creamy!

Mine was a "refurbished" monitor. Cheap enough but I noticed after a while that black just wasn't black. Last time I searched, I found nothing. This time, this thread was #1.

I looked inside and found that a repair had been attempted. The two mismatched resistors had a total impedence of 8Mohms and one was a 1/4Watt or smaller.
(by the way, the plastic tabs everyone was referring to are a the top of the monitor on each side. look for little slots)
I replaced them with a resistence of 6Mohm and things were better.
Looking closely, I could see that I wasn't as black as could be and brightness was still at 0.

I opened 'er up and used a 4Mohm impedence and this time everything was REAL dark. Way too dark. Remembering some wise words from earlier in the thread, I went shopping, came back and pressed "color restore".

BINGO

Perfect.

You guys kick ass.

[shodan]

Hi,

I found the DAS and WinDAS software , but now I'm looking for a cable
I tried looking for one on ebay but no luck

I assume the versions of das I have are cracked or else I'll have to fix that too

I read that Xweenie sucessfully made an interfacing cable , did anyone received some schematics or anything about the pin out/protocol/levels etc.. that this connection needs ?

thanks !

(btw , I have a lot of sony monitors from that time and a lot of Dell P1110 they all work great but I'd love to be able to get under the hood without using my weller and scope so any further contribution would be extremely welcomed !)

[zero]

Hi!

I have also Sony E500 monitor with brightness problem.

I will try the fix, but i also have other problems:

All horizontal lines have some kind of "shade" so all lines are doubled(for example in Exel). Vertical lines are ok. Cable should be good.

Any ideas what to do?

-zero

[TheSmJ]

Sounds like either your focus setting on your monitor are out of whack, or your cable is indeed bad. Have you tried the monitor on other computers to make sure it's not just one machine?

I wouldn't even bother with fixing any brightness issues if the monitor is really that messed up in the first place.

[mrtube]

perhaps convergance?

[atomist]

I have build the adapter to communicate with the monitor and hooked it up and it works. Now I think I have the too bright issue but I get following error:

H Stop: Error
H Stop: Error (Picture) (http://atom.port11.net/p1110/4.jpg)

If anybody is interrested in seeing my adapter go here:
http://atom.port11.net/p1110/

Having that error I have issues adjusting settings.

[300PSI]

I have a Sony G500 that has displayed this same problem of over brightness, I have spent and wasted allot of time on this problem, nonetheless I pass on to my brethren all I have learnt in the last 48 hours. I leeched enough information from other posters to form an educated opinion. For those that want to know, I am an EE who works in the embedded processor field, I just state this as there is more than the fair share of disinformation on topic that has been posted.

a) Electrical Safety
I do not, and have never worked on monitors (up until now) due to the inherit safety issues. Gents, 50ma through the body will KILL. DEAD – HEART STOPS – DEAD. All TV’s and monitors contain lethal voltages (it’s actually the current that kills but at 10KVA inside a monitor it doesn’t matter that much).

Even turned off and unplugged these monitors still have enough power stored to kill; the screen alone WILL hold its charge for several days (even with bleed off resistors).

If you must work on your monitor always use the one hand rule, only use one hand and keep the other in your pocket. Makes working difficult but it decreases the risk of death by an order of magnitude.

b) Infamous resistor change for G2.
I downloaded a schematic of my G500 and had a look at the whole G2 voltage issue. In my case all of the components were OK it is a corrupted E2ROM that is causing the processor to over drive the G2.

The voltage level of G2 is controlled by two feedback resistors, namely R457 & R459. These provide feedback to an opamp that controls the voltage on G2, which is also driven by a PWM signal that the monitor’s processor controls.

Contrary to what has been posted on this thread about the wattage of the resistors they carry very little current. The reason that 1/2W is specified has to do with the input being 1500V, which can arc across a very small space. 1/2W resistors are long and are also bound in nonconductive material (plastic/ceramic).

I made my 10M resistor out of 5 x 2Meg 1/8watt resistors in series. Easy to find, just soldered them together and then put them inside heat shrink tubing.

The trick is to add the resistor in parallel to R457 (NEVER attempt doing this on R459). R457 only carries a fraction of current as R459 is on the high side (1500V).

There is another issue with changing the feedback via resistors, it will cause the op amp to become unbalanced which will show when you attempt to change the brightness & contrast on the monitor through the front panel.

Its not an elegant solution but the modification is simple and it works. The best method is to use the DAS software which I cover in our next series.

[300PSI]

Digital Alignment.

Sony, as most other monitor manufacturers use microcontrollers/DSP’s to control the many different voltages required to drive a CRT so that it works and looks good.

Sony has software called Digital Alignment System or DAS that is run on a PC and connects to the monitor. It allows an inordinate number of variables to be changed, all of which have to be set just right for the monitor to display the colors correctly and in a nice crisp manner.

One of our posters had talked about the Sony DAS software which piqued my interest. It requires the software, an interface box and a special cable.

At first I was worried about signal inversion or other problems (it was mentioned earlier in the thread that the Sony converter box actually converted the RS232 to I2C) and is just hearsay.

I have written firmware on many occasions to communicate with I2C devices and there is no simple method to generate the correct timing pulses from a PC via RS232 to correctly talk to an I2C bus device.

After reviewing the schematics of the G500 it became apparent that the ECS port (that’s what Sony call it - allows connection to a PC) is nothing more than RX/TX & GND. More importantly these signals run directly to the microcontroller inside the monitor to its UART pins. All of the I2C signals are generated by the microcontroller on separate lines.

The connection to the monitor is nothing more than a standard RS232<>TTL converter (AKA MAX232). These are available from a variety of sources but RE Smith make some inexpensive ones @ RS485.COM.

My ECS port is labeled as CN503:

Pin 1 = GND / Ground
Pin 2 = STBY5 / 5VDC when monitor in Standby mode (use it to power the converter)
Pin 3 = RXD / TTL – Connect to TXD of TTL<>RS232 converter
Pin 4 = TXD / TTL – Connect to RXD of TTL<>RS232 converter

The connector is a 4 pin .100” header, all very standard stuff.

I downloaded a copy of the DAS J4.1.2.1 software; DOS based only and turned out to be somewhat of a waste of time. My monitor will talk to the software but then immediately shuts down due to a version mismatch. This was after I wasted many hours transferring it to a DOS box and screwing around with it.

What I hope is that some kind sole will be able to send me the later Windows version of DAS so I can have a go at adjusting the G2 output.

I have done the resistor mod for now, albeit its not what I would like as the screen controls no longer function as they should (increasing brightness dims the gun output).

:)

[TheSmJ]

http://rs485.com/prs232it.html

Is that the converter you used?

[300PSI]

I apologize for any vagueness in specifying the converter I used, I just happened to have one laying around (I do allot of comms work).

The converter used is RS232IT from RS485.COM. You DO NOT need to purchase a transformer to power it - the power can be supplied from the monitor. You MUST make sure that J5 is set to A (rather than B), this bypasses the regulator and allows power to be supplied by Pin 4.

This is the cable I made for the G500 to the RS232IT, the RS232IT has a 4 pin .100" header that can be connected directly to the monitor with a cable.

Monitor--------------R232IT
Pin 1---GND----------Pin 1---GND
Pin 2---STBY +5VDC--Pin 4---+5VDC (connect NO power is needed)
Pin 3---RXD----------Pin 2---TXD
Pin 4---TXD----------Pin 3---RXD

Standard cross over for serial comms, but do please be careful about Pin 2 as it can F-Up the monitor if you accidentally connect it to ground.

Regards

[atomist]

I built this adapter with parts from jameco electronics for ~$15.

http://atom.port11.net/DB25.GIF

All of this are common parts. Slapped them on a prototyping board and voila.

Somebody posted a link to the DAS software earlier that works.

[zero]

WinDAS is available somewhere in the net, but it requires dongle:(

I want to know that it is possible to adjust focus with DAS(dos based) software or is there other way to adjust focus? In my case all horizontal lines have "shade" under(about 1,5mm) the "real" line. Computer and cable are ok.

Older model this was easy to do with potentiometers...

[Xweebie]

I want to know that it is possible to adjust focus with DAS(dos based) software or is there other way to adjust focus? In my case all horizontal lines have "shade" under(about 1,5mm) the "real" line. Computer and cable are ok.

Older model this was easy to do with potentiometers...

You can do focus on the flyback, there are two adjustments. These adjusments are usually fixed in place by some white paint. They should not need readjustment under normal circumstances. Maybe instead the problem is convergence?

Focus:
Adjust F2 focus VR for best vertical focus.
1) Adjust the F1 focus VR for best horizontal overall focus.
2) Repeat F1 and F2 as there is some interaction.

[zero]

You can do focus on the flyback, there are two adjustments. These adjusments are usually fixed in place by some white paint. They should not need readjustment under normal circumstances. Maybe instead the problem is convergence?

Focus:
Adjust F2 focus VR for best vertical focus.
1) Adjust the F1 focus VR for best horizontal overall focus.
2) Repeat F1 and F2 as there is some interaction.

Thanks! This helps me a lot. It is not convergence, i have already tried it.

-zero

[Vegeta]

I have a Dell P1130 (an OEM Sony CPD-G520) and also have the brightness problem but its different from what has been said by all of you here.

My monitor is manufactured in 'Dec 2003' and 'Made in Mexico' and the casing colour is a silver/grey front with a black back.

Basically 3 out of 5 times I switch on the monitor, the brightness is 30% more than it should be making blacks look like faded grey so I have to switch the monitor off 2 or 3 times before the image is displayed at the correct brightness.

Anyone have similiar problems or know how to fix this since its a P1130 I'm talking about here with "CHASSIS CR1" and not a P1110 :confused:

Also as someone mentioned earlier about the picture flickering for 2 seconds and returning after extended usage, I also have this problem and it usually happens after the monitor has been on for over 2 hours or so.

Any help would be greatly appreciated :)

[Xweebie]

Basically 3 out of 5 times I switch on the monitor, the brightness is 30% more than it should be so I have to switch the monitor off 2 or 3 times before the image is displayed at the correct brightness.

Also as someone mentioned earlier about the picture flickering for 2 seconds and returning after extended usage, I also have this problem and it usually happens after the monitor has been on for over 2 hours or so.

Any help would be greatly appreciated :)

Not familiar with that model but in any case maybe more information is needed.
When the brightness is incorrect, is the number displayed in the on screen menu for brightness incorrect also (does it change or remain constant regardless of brightness)? Are all colors equally bright, or does the screen take on some particular hue? Have you tapped the chassis in various places when it's on to see if anything changes?

On the flickering also.
Is the screen blanking or jumping or do you mean brightness changes?

You would have to find the out of spec voltage during the too-bright condition. There should be an easily measurable difference when it is ok and when it is not. Since it reverts to normal it does not sound related to the usual P1110 defect.

[Vegeta]

Not familiar with that model but in any case maybe more information is needed.
When the brightness is incorrect, is the number displayed in the on screen menu for brightness incorrect also (does it change or remain constant regardless of brightness)? Are all colors equally bright, or does the screen take on some particular hue? Have you tapped the chassis in various places when it's on to see if anything changes?

On the flickering also.
Is the screen blanking or jumping or do you mean brightness changes?

You would have to find the out of spec voltage during the too-bright condition. There should be an easily measurable difference when it is ok and when it is not. Since it reverts to normal it does not sound related to the usual P1110 defect.

The brightness number remains constant when I have the brightness problem. I have contrast set at 50 and brightness at 42 with colour temp at 9300k.

All colours are equally bright, it just seems the brightness goes up by about 30% making blacks look like faded grey. I have tapped the chassis and there is no change only power cycling the monitor a few times resolves the problem.

The flickering I'd say resembles the kind of flicker/picture jump you get when you change screen resolutions. I run the monitor at 1280x1024 @ 75Hz.

Its driving me insane and I don't want to open up a high voltage monitor :(

[Vegeta]

Ok, I decided to change the 15-pin VGA D-Sub cable from one that had no ferrite cores to one with 2 ferrite cores and the problem so far seems to have been eliminated.

Can a VGA cable with no ferrites really cause a random brightness problem?

I do still have the flickering problem but I have managed to find a way to trigger it anytime.

Basically if I right-click any video file on my PC (Windows XP Pro) I get the flickering for 2 seconds.

I still don't understand why its happening. I only recently did a clean install of XP and I have also tried various other gfx card drivers and switched out my gfx card for another one.

Here is a short video clip I made illustrating the problem:

http://rapidshare.de/files/2223736/VIDPROB.AVI.html

[anoah]

Hi,

I'm very happy to have found this thread with all the useful information.

I have 2 Dell P1130's that are way to bright to use.

I am desperately looking fo the das software that can be used without a security key. If you have a copy or a link could you PLEASE email or private message me?

Thank you!

Albert

[Vegeta]

Well, after a few days it seems the random brightness problem is back :scratch: so the problem couldn't have been the cable.

Another strange thing I noticed is the brightness problem isn't always on both inputs. My monitor can accept 2 D-Sub connections so I have 2 PCs connected up but the brightness problem doesn't always affect both inputs :confused:

[AdeV]

NEWFLASH!!!!

i posted about this on several forums including this one & i now have the exact info needed to correct this

*******
http://www.hutzelman.com/home/hardware/mods/monitor/
Sony Monitor Brightness Fix
Many Sony Trinitron-based monitors manufactured around the 1999-2000
[snip]
********

rest of the link goes on to explain what to do - it involves opening the CRT case, disabling an existing resistor, and soldering in a new/different one


Thanks for posting this link! I have a Dell P1110, which was exhibiting this OTT brightness problem. Found your post & the associated link... I just replaced the resistor with a 4M7ohm one, and everything's perfect! I even managed to not electrocute myself....

Gone from 0 brightness 100 contrast & way too bright to 35 bright 100 contrast & its just spot on.

Thanks!

[Vegeta]

A friend of mine also has a Dell P1130. He has the brightness problem but it goes away after the monitor has been on for about 15 minutes from a cold state ie not been on prior to that.

Is that normal behaviour?

[Straight_Man]

i may still try the resistor "fix" anyway, provided i can find any that meet the proper "specs" (4.7Mohms to 6.8 Mohms, capable of handling at least 1kV and 0.5Watts)

Try Jameco Electronics, if you are in the US.

[mr_rizla]

Hi Guys - awesome thread, really useful!

My problem has not been helped though just yet... I have the HP P1130 and exactly the same brightness problem as everyone describes.

- I cannot access the service menu currently (although my only video input available is a 60Hz laptop which might be the issue)
- The flyback transformer only has two controls, for horizontal and vertical convergance
- I can't find anywhere in the UK where I can purchase a 5MOhm resistor just yet
- More to the point, the P1130 does not have a PCB directly at the rear of the monitor to find the resistor that needs replacing on! It does have a PCB at its base, but this looks like a right pig to take off - let me guess, time to get brutish?

Any advice or comments would be welcome...

Cheers!

[AdeV]

- I can't find anywhere in the UK where I can purchase a 5MOhm resistor just yet

Maplin stock 4.7M&Omega; and 5.6M&Omega; resistors. They cost around 6p each.

Sorry, I can't help with the monitor, it's a different model to mine.

[mr_rizla]

Does nobody have a solution?

I would like to resolve it myself if possible before resorting to paing somebody else to do it...

(FYI, Took the monitor apart some more - is definitely virtually nothing like the P1110)

Cheers...

[justice7]

I too am having trouble with TWO 21" CRT Monitors

Sun GDM-5410 and HP p1120 , both have brightness problems.

I have a temporary fix, which kinda sucks but is allowing me to use it until i either find a place to buy resistors, or buy a new monitor.

The temp fix im using: Go into the EXPERT COLOR menu, turn your RGB Gain's up to 100, and the RGB Bias's at 0. This seems to level out the color quite a bit.

Does anyone know of any online site that sells resistors of this size? Or could someone mail me a few 10MOhm resistors? (i'll even paypal you the shipping charge if needed)

please let me know

davidsmith (at) cogeco . ca

(remove spaces and replace at with @)

thanks guys, someone please help!

[Fanakapan]

Greetings All,

This link seems to have all (or most) of the DAS software along with wincats and windas.

http://www.ablserv.com/files/

[radio]

What are the foctory colour settings for the HP1110 monitor i just baught a used one and i want to restore all the settings back to default, so i can find out if it has any problems. Also what is the reccomended settings for a working p1110 in general pc use, just so i can get the best possible picture.

[izzNatta]

Hi all,

Thanks for this thread, after the resisstor fix, now I can enjoy a Crisp and Clear non hazy P1110.

Am using 6.8Mohm 1/5w, its just that what temp monitor are u guys using?
7500, 9500.... mine when set to 9500 temp gonna get dim unusable view (after 2-4 hours) 7500 its much better i think gonna try it if its work...

Thanks for saving couple of bucks from repairman... :)

[remotesolution]

Does nobody have a solution?

I would like to resolve it myself if possible before resorting to paing somebody else to do it...

(FYI, Took the monitor apart some more - is definitely virtually nothing like the P1110)

Cheers...
=========================
I have the exact same model you have P1130 with same brightness problem and tried to replace the resistor but once open the casing of the monitor, wow its totally different. anyone can help me on this??? oh boy.

[Xweebie]

For the 1130:
You probably don't want to kill yourself doing this, so first off, be sure to know and follow standard safety when working inside monitors.
One way to do this fix:
Trace back from pin 10 on the crt. This should lead to R064 (220K), then on to a white single or dual pin connector (labeled G2?). Trace from the connector to R936, a 2.2M resistor. One end of that resistor connects to Q905 and the other end to a diode and C919. At the end that connects to Q905, you can connect a resistor from that point to ground. Ground can be found on the lead of C919 that does NOT connect to the diode. The resistor value will have to be determined experimentally but a good place to start might be 4.7 M 1W. If you have a resistor switchbox you can just dial the value in until you get it. When mounting the resistor, don't scrunch it down on the board, try to stand it off a bit. I do not have one of these monitors so these instructions are based on my schematics. If things mentioned here do not match, do not attempt the fix without verifying the connection points. If this fix is done incorrectly, resistor R916 or other component may fail and G2 will be lost (blank screen).

[Phazed]

Hey guys , I gave the repair from Xweebie a try and had very good results.

Back in 2000 I got a 24" Widescreen Sony monitor and ended up returning it under warranty some two years later due to the brightness creeping up so much that I could see retrace lines across the screen. Fast forward to 2005 and the refurbished replacement they sent me had been suffering a similar fate for over a year. While no retrace lines were visible it was getting too bright at the lowest settings to tolerate. Sony wanted hundreds of dollars for a flat rate fix on this out of warranty unit.

Now this monitor is about 90lbs and a real pain to transport and from reading this forum it seemed like there had to be a better way. I thought about the resistor mod but didn't want to mess around inside the monitor not knowing if it is even the same as other models.

So anyhow, here is a little visual rundown of how I got it fixed. After getting the adapter in the mail and a few tries at getting it plugged in good (small / deep opening at the monitor connection point is a little tricky to get the fingers in there but may vary by the model of monitor. A few emails back and fourth and the same evening I was back in business with beautiful blacks and great contrast again.

This approach is highly recommended!! :D

http://k04.com/pics/MonitorRepair2005a.gif

[spidermanx64]

Hello everyone... I have the Dell P1110, I've had it for 2-3 yrs and bought it used. Ever since I got it, it was way to "bright", everything looked too white and washed out. I found this really long thread about this monitor and read it thru 3 times (every post!) before deciding what to do. Finally I decided that I would try the resister fix, and I did and am mostly satisfied. Anyways, figured I'd get on here to share my results/experience.

First, prior to the resister fix, I had my monitor set to:
0 Brightness
100 Contrast
RGB BIAS: 25, 15, 15
RGB Gain: 87, 84, 89

I have been using these settings for 2-years or so, to give a pretty good picture, although black was never truly black (as it is now after the fix), it was pretty good. I had found that setting the Brightness/RGB gain low, while the Contrast/RGB GAIN high, gave a pretty good picture. It always looked fine using Windows desktop, however movies/games often seemed washed out some. Usually, I could get a suitable picture by further adjusting in-game gamma/intensity/color settings, etc.

I should also note that prior to the fix, whenever I first turn on my monitor (from power off) it would be way too bright, however it would settle down and balance out after 15-30 minutes or warmup. This would not occur if the monitor was restored from sleep mode.

Anyways, after finding this thread, I decided I wanted to go for the resister fix. I ordered the 6.2MOhm 0.5W 5%-tolerance Carbon Film resister from oselectronics.com (along with a solder-iron, solder-iron stand, and solder, in order to meet the $10 minimum order). Shipping was $8 UPS Ground (which was the cheapest shipping). So, anyways I spent about $20 and my time on this project.

Final thing I did prior to the resister fix, was restore the monitor to default settings by going thru each OSD function and choosing reset (to reset each one).

At this point, my settings are:
Brightness 50
Contrast 80
Color-Temp 9300K (selected on EASY color menu).

Doing the surgery was quite painless, taking the shell off the monitor I found easy with a flat head screw-driver to pop the top-side plastic tabs. The most trouble I had was finding something small enough that I could maneuver into the small space on the underside of the circuit board so that I could cut the original 10MOhm resister loose. I soldered the new resister without solder, just heated the existing solder points on the top-side of the circuit board. Put it all back together and turn it on, looked great! Nice blacks, vibrant colors! However...

... as I mentioned above, before the fix my monitor would be really bright when I first turned it on from power off state. Then within 15-30 min. or so it would darken to a suitable level. Well after the fix, when I first turned on the monitor, it looked great, but over 15-30 minutes began to gradually darken, and darken, and darken until it was way too dark! So, then it looked horrible.

Prior to making any further changes, I tested ALL of the OSD control features to see that they worked properly, and then did. The brightness, contrast, RGB Bias/Gain and other controls working normally. But the picture was way too dark, and turning up the brightness beyond 50 made it brighter, but too washed-out looking. I pumped up the Contrast to 100, that helped some, but not enough. So...

I decided to use the Color Return feature on the EASY color menu, while the Temp was set to 9300K. It did its thing and immediately after, the picture definitely was more vibrant again, but just not quite enough. Using the EXPERT color menu, I adjusted each RGB GAIN/BIAS to 100. Increasing the BIAS to 100 on each color helped a lot. Finally, my picture is awesome. I sits right between 2 Viewsonic G90f monitors, one on each side in a tri-monitor setup :) . Those viewsonics always looked way better than my Dell before the fix, but now I must say the Dell is far more vibrant.

The only drawback, after doing the color return function above, MY OSD CONTROLS are EFFFED UP! The brightness/contrast controls are pretty much out of wack, and the RGB BIAS/Gain do also seem out of wack a bit somehow. But, all in all its looks good (definitely way better than before and worth the resister fix) and I'm using settings:

Brightness 50
Contrast 100
RGB GAIN/BIAS ALL 100

I think I should have used the 6.8MOhm resistor, but oselectronics.com did not list that one on their site, which is why I used the 6.2. I would suggest for anyone going to try this fix, to use a 6.8MOhm resister *if* your monitor already has a relatively decent pic with Brightness/RGB-BIAS set really low and Contrast/RGB-Gain set really high. If ur using those settings, and ur pic is still way too bright/washed-out, then use a lower-resistance.

Good luck, and THANKS TO EVERYONE who POSTED HERE! God Bless.

[ginahoy]

Hi,
I'm new to this forum. I have a Dell P992, and have the same brightness problem. After opening the case, I realized the circuit board was nothing like the P1110, etc. I downloaded the schematics and mine doesn't even HAVE R457 or R459! And I have no clue how to determine which one I might tweak to reduce the brightness. Also, I'm a bit concerned about the issues raised by some of the folks here that have swapped resistors.

So I bought the interface offered by Xweebie and all I can say is, it's worth every penny!! Not only is my monitor back to normal, I can now use the interface and software to save all of my monitor settings, including the geometry and color settings. :thumbsup:

Once you submit your DAS file to Xweebie, he sends back eight files, each with a different setting for the field that controls the G2 voltage. This way you can choose the one that puts your brightness in the desired range. Like some others in this thread, my brightness problem evolved gradually, so it may be necessary down the road to load a different file if an analog component is drifting out of spec. All I have to do is hook up the interface and load a file with a lower setting.

OTOH, it's been reported that this particular EEPROM is known to have problems losing it's settings. This doesn't seem consistent with a gradual change, but I'm certainly no expert on such things.

BTW, the eight data files will come back to you with all settings just as they were, except for the one that controls the G2 voltage. If you suspect your EEPROM, you might want to restore all the factory defaults before creating the DAS file. I'm not sure if Xweebie has information as to what all the default settings are supposed to be, but if he does, he might be able to do a comparison. Just a thought.

Note to other P992 owners: the plastic cover on the four-pin port has tabs that prevent it from being removed without first removing the monitor case. So DON'T try to pry or force it, or you'll end up cracking your case (the tabs are definitely not sacrificial). That's the dumbest thing I've ever seen!

David

[GluedToTheScreen]

I found this forum through Google and this thread helped me... THANKS!

I have an IBM P260 (Sony manufactured like others here). The instructions and photos helped me fix the brightness problem quickly. I couldn't find exactly the recommended resistors but found an assortment package at Radio Shack for $6... so put six 1 Mohm ones in series and removed the existing 10 Mohm one... a bit ugly but works perfectly.

By the way, the IBM has 4 screws and no clips (mentioned as difficult to undo without breaking in some messages)... so it was easier to remove the enclosure.

Thanks again for all the help (I love web resources like this)!!!

Take care.

[Phrnzy]

Great forum with a lot of helpful information.... Thanks

I have an HP A4576A (Sony 21N3 chassis) which has had problems with horizontal jitter. I have the WinDas software and was wondering if anyone out ther has had any luck finding the dll's that it requires. I believe that I have the correct IrDA_Dispatch.dll but have not been able to find the correct TRANSDLL.dll for it. I have been able to run the DAS 4.0 and 5.7 and connect to this monitor with the cable I made. I believe WinDas has factory settings included which I would like to load into the monitor.

Thanks again,

[gqsha]

Hi everyone!

My DELL P1110 developed a funny habit. It refuses to display any input signals. When I connected it to my notebook, the front LED flickering brown: 'long-short', all the buttons became useless. When I changed the computer, it did the same. With no signal cable connected, it showed the usual message.

It also has the "too bright" problem. But before I try the "Magic Resistor" I need to make it show something.

Help!

Many thanks!

[edsont]

Hi,

I have a Sony CPD-G520 21" monitor with convergence problem. Has anyone the DAS or WINDAS software that connect to them?

Thanks!

edson.

[P991 DELL SONY]

This was when I MPUed the monitor thinking I would get default settings, I got them, but default settings don't look very good. I now have made a howto to help newbs, like I was when I wrote this, avoid common pitfalls like this.

http://www.geocities.com/gregua/windas/

Good luck! Never give up, never surrender!


Hi,

I recently tried the windas + ECS cable fix for my DELL P991, I got the software on ablserv.com to work by changing where the code branches near the annoying "No key found in LPT1" and "Check Configuration." messages. However , the File->MPU function loaded faulty settings into my monitors EEPROM and I hadn't made a backup .dat file. Now my monitor is barely usable, the color temp settings and color return do nothing, the brightness controll is faulty , the default mode settings are weird, and the auto size/center doesn't function correctly. I can provide my .dat file if necessary
So, after days of no success, I come back here and beg. :D Could anyone lend me a hand? All I really need is a correct .dat file, for some reason (I think related to the security key) windas is loading in garbage rather than default settings read from the .mdl files.(I think?)

Thanks

[Kentucky]

I've got a sony g500 with the usual story - extremely bright even at 0 brightness, green tint (fixed through colour controls), blurry image and you can see lots of thin horizontal bright lines on an angle all the way down the screen (scan lines?). Near the end of the 3 year warranty I sent it back for repair. Although the image looked a bit better, you could still see the scan lines.

In the 2 years since its repair the monitor has slowly degraded back to this shocking condition. Whatever they did during the repair, including the DAS alignments didn't do a great job and was not a permanent solution, so I'm looking at trying the resistor mod.

The service sheet says they did the following:

"Repaired DJ's on main chassis. Performed DAS alignments."

From reading this thread I know what the DAS alignments are, but does anyone know what the DJ's they repaired are?

[LAGRUNAUER]

I've got a pair of Sony GDM-C520 monitors with the the following problems...

One of the is way too bright, even with the brightness control all the way to zero, and it has horizontal greenish scanning lines going from top to bottom, side to side. This one has a strong blue background. The colors looked washed out at start, but when the picture tube warms up, the colors depth goes back to normal, and it looks decent.

The other unit had its tube replaced with a new one, but it has a strong green brackground which makes it impossible to set colors, specially blacks.

For the first unit, I located the G2 and removed the A2 board (C block) which plugs to the back of the picture tube, and found three resistors R151, R251, and R351, all with the same value 4.6-4.7 MOhms. Are these the resistors that needs to be replaced?

I do not have WinDAS, and I tried to downloaded from a website, but it will not install.

For the second unit... Any suggestions of what to do to fix the green glow problem would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks so much in advaced!
LAG, Jr.

[LAGRUNAUER]

Hey guys , I gave the repair from Xweebie a try and had very good results.

Back in 2000 I got a 24" Widescreen Sony monitor and ended up returning it under warranty some two years later due to the brightness creeping up so much that I could see retrace lines across the screen. Fast forward to 2005 and the refurbished replacement they sent me had been suffering a similar fate for over a year. While no retrace lines were visible it was getting too bright at the lowest settings to tolerate. Sony wanted hundreds of dollars for a flat rate fix on this out of warranty unit.

Now this monitor is about 90lbs and a real pain to transport and from reading this forum it seemed like there had to be a better way. I thought about the resistor mod but didn't want to mess around inside the monitor not knowing if it is even the same as other models.

So anyhow, here is a little visual rundown of how I got it fixed. After getting the adapter in the mail and a few tries at getting it plugged in good (small / deep opening at the monitor connection point is a little tricky to get the fingers in there but may vary by the model of monitor. A few emails back and fourth and the same evening I was back in business with beautiful blacks and great contrast again.

This approach is highly recommended!! :D

http://k04.com/pics/MonitorRepair2005a.gif

[LAGRUNAUER]

What software did you use to get this done? And where can I get it?
Please let me know...

Many thanks in advance...

Luis G.

[Marf]

This is my first post so Hi All! :thumbsup:

I've just brought home a Dell Branded P1110 from work on test and found it has the brightness issue, which I have no problem about fixing, but it also has another niggle.

Depending on the brightness level, particularly when there is mainly just white on the screen, the size of the picture will increase and decrease, it can go outside the bounds of the screen when the screen is particularly bright.

Will the resistor mod also cure the size changing? :confused:

I don't want to say I'll buy it, do the resistor mod and find the size is still changing.

Thanks in advance

Sam

[P991 DELL SONY]

Greetings All,

This link seems to have all (or most) of the DAS software along with wincats and windas.
Sony DAs Sony Windas Sony wincats etc.

http://www.ablserv.com/files/

This is a good link to the windas and wincats programs, the only problem is you need to bypass the copyright protection. Fourtunately this is an easy task given you know how to use a debuger. Maybe someone would post a binary patch to the forum to disable the security.Though the program uses sophisticated hardware copy protection ( a dongle you attach to LPT1), the guts of the program are not encrypted and can be run without the dongle. Just find the branch before it pushes the string "config error" onto the stack, take the other path and enjoy :)

Once the program works you get to make TONS of adjustments, all are explained by the program.

Whatever you do, DO NOT set default settings (File->MPU), the defaults will appear to have killed your monitor. If you do happen to reset your whole EEPROM (as I did, lol, oops!) all you have to do is go to (Adjustment->Procedure) and do all the steps in order, takes a few hours and almost everything can be eyeballed except for white balancne.You can adjust your centering, Auto-centering, and geometry for low and high frequencies much better than the factory defaults.

White balance takes many passes to get right so this is the main reason to avoid MPUing the monitor, unless you have a color calibrator/ colorimeter/ spectrophotometer etc. (~60$ on ebay for the cheap ones like colorvision's spyder). In that case, It's probably a good idea to redo the white balance in hardware, rather than with .icc color profiles for software.G2 adjustment is part of the white balance, so it's best you (File->save) your .dat first, then (help->expert) to find out which part of the .dat is G2 then lower it a bit and load it back into your monitor to avoid having to eyeball the white balance. I think though, that if your whitebalance is correct, and all you touch is the G2 you may not have to adjust it through the .dat file and your whitebalance settings will remain, but save your .dat before you make any changes just to be safe.

I don't know if .dats are the same for every monitor, maybe they are the same for every batch, or, at the worst, they are all hand adjusted by QC guys at the factory, but how much can change between one monitor and the next? I do known that different models are incompatible with eachother, even ones that are very simmiliar in spec (like P991 and P992). Maybe if the monitors share the same chasis files could be swapped, such as between the compaq and dell versions of the same monitor from sony.

Another plus of using this software is that it allows you to make your convergence ABSOLUTELY PERFECT! Even in the CORNERS! NO TRADE OFFS! Seriously, I couldn't believe it, I had always thought flat CRTs were doomed to crumby convergence, not true at all. The dead on convergence doesn't just help with edges of color but also improves the clarity/focus of sigle pixels at high resolutions ( If you ever see the b&w xroot window mesh in X11 you will know what I mean by convergence affecting the resolution of single pixels). The downside is it takes a little bit of time to adjust it perfect, but the program has you go through a series of steps so you could get reasonable results in a casual 20 minutes or less .

So yeah, once you download the software and disable the protection, build the link interface mentioned earlier in the thread by EPS300i and atomist, or just download the dos DAS software posted earlier, it has the schematic atomist posted. Regarding the max232 chip, it just functions as a voltage converter between TTL levels and RS232 levels, there are many different cheaper brands that do the same function just search max232 on ebay, some guys even give you the capacitors while some chips don't need external capacitors. ALL you need is the chip, and wires, breadboard/proto typing board can make connecting it easier.

I think some people have found a way to load in the *.dat files saved from yoru monitors eeprom with some other software mentioned in the thread. If you take a look inside the .dat s they are very simple. and better yet, the windas program explains each parameter in the .dat files (Help->expert)

Ok, I think I am having too much fun raving about this great approach to reviving these excellent monitors, I just had to let people know that the resistor fix is FLAWED. Everybody who's bothered to check the resistors value (simple to do yourtself with a multimeter and the color code on the resistor) has noticed that it is not defective(read the rest of the thread).The other rumour of EEPROM failure is also a bit flawed, because, if bits were to drop out of your settings things would go wild all at once, not gradually. My current theory is that as your monitor ages, G2 is increased to compensate for the monitor becoming more and more dim. This fits with reports of the problem becoming worse with time. No, I haven't found proof of this by way of a time value in the EEPROM or an analysis of the code in the EEPROM.(btw, the data you download into the .dats is given to you by the MPU which reads it off the EEPROM , you are not actually dumping the eeprom (atleast not all of it), or, perhaps you are, and the MPU's code is stored on another EEPROM, but that would be stupid design.)

About the screen changing size depending on how many bright pixels are on the screen: this is normal, all monitors do it, atleast to some extent. They have a test with a blinking white box on a black screen to illustrate the effect "clamp test" . There is a circuit in the monitor called ABL or Automatic brightness limiter, there is also an ACL Automatic Contrast Limiter. The ABL does something to clamp the max voltage from the FBT (Fly back transformer, which makes me thing there must be another transformer as 'flyback' is when the beam is quickly horizontaly swept back after drawing a line of the picture) and to raise the black level voltage in order to keep the same average voltage across one field (frame, as in 60hz for 60 frames a second, or fields a second).I don't really understand it all, but it has something to do with the screen changing size with respect to brightness on the screen.

I'd apreciate it if some one could shed some light about these things. Yes yes, ok, I'll read the service manual, sorry. You can find the service manuals online, either at the site where that DOS Das was, or on P2P.

Yeah, and did I mention it works on almost all sony monitors with an MPU?
Ok, enough, thanks to all for this thread, sure helped me, hope that it's more helpfull to the next generation of you now. :)



You DO NOT need a signal generator or two computers to adjust your monitor! My howto and posts below explain how you can use a single computer to adjust and re-upload your monitors saved settings.

You can use a signal generator or my setup below to make realtime adjustments to your monitor while displaying diagnostic patterns. This is BY NO MEANS NECESSARY and only makes convergence, geometry and delicate white balance adjustments easier. These adjustments are normally not necessary unless you replace the CRT or erase all your settings ( like I did before I knew to make a backup). Someday a bootable CD should be available to display diagnostic patterns and adjustment procedures on one computer regardless of OS, even though most people would have little use for it, as G2 can be lowered easy with the method mentioned in a later post.

========Optional to use two computers, One computer suffices for nearly all Procedures!!===========

Comp A
One computer runs the Windas program and is connected via the max232 chip to the monitor thourgh the RS232 serial port. It's video card is connected to it's own monitor, so hopefully you have a laptop to serve as this computer.

Comp B or signal generator
Another computer or a signal generator (unlikely you have a video signal generator, for some reason I can't find any deals on them, so it's easier to just use a computer, it does exactly the same thing if you have a normal video card that does true-color (almost all since 1998?), guys on ebay sell software for your computer to act as a signal generator, costs too much, lol.)

Set the widas program to "manual SG" , when it has a command for the SG, you do it manualy on your computer. You put the modelines into whatever you use to set a graphics mode, in my case, I use linux/Xorg, so I put in my modelines for the DAS modes, and used xrandr to set the resolution as required. To make a crosshatch etc., I just wrote my self simple programs using a graphics library. I can post my program and the modelines if anyone is interested.

The tricky part is figuring out how to make a so many IRE white. IRE is some unit of the percentage of max NTSC broadcast voltage. 7.5 is broadcast black. I've read on sites that a white of 255 is 109 IRE, I white of 235 is 100 IRE, I white (or should I say black/gray? lol) of 7.5 is 16. Best to measure this yourself, or look it up somewhere for yourself... the scale seems have gamma correction to keep the computer 0-255 setting linear with observed brightness. If any one has better info on this, let me know.

Thanks again, and please contribute ANYTHING you know, correct me, etc. I'm all ears about this stutff.

[TheSmJ]

P991 DELL SONY, PLEASE check your PMs! I have a lot to ask you about.

[mrtube]

just bought the cable from Xweebie, and to sum it up,
after some small tests, i emailed him and he gave me a custom G2 level and now the monitor is unbeleivable

an example of how dark it is, when you use the "blank screen" screensaver you cant even tell the monitors on
yet using the brightness\contrast controls set to 40 and 80 it performs UNBELEIVABLE in displaymate

now if i could only get my $700 1 year old 22" mitsubishi monitor "also crt" to have as good of a blacklevel :)

[22SAS]

just bought the cable from Xweebie, and to sum it up,
after some small tests, i emailed him and he gave me a custom G2 level and now the monitor is unbeleivable

an example of how dark it is, when you use the "blank screen" screensaver you cant even tell the monitors on
yet using the brightness\contrast controls set to 40 and 80 it performs UNBELEIVABLE in displaymate

now if i could only get my $700 1 year old 22" mitsubishi monitor "also crt" to have as good of a blacklevel :)

Hey Mr Tube, congrats on your results. I have a question for you: which monitor are you using, the Dell P1110 or another model using the same chassis? I have the Dell monitor and I would prefer to go the route you did rather than the resistor mod, if possible.

22SAS

[mrtube]

Hey Mr Tube, congrats on your results. I have a question for you: which monitor are you using, the Dell P1110 or another model using the same chassis? I have the Dell monitor and I would prefer to go the route you did rather than the resistor mod, if possible.

22SAS

my cable\software came from xweebie at the URL on the pictures others posted of the cable..
and yes, its a dell p1100

[P991 DELL SONY]

I built this adapter with parts from jameco electronics for ~$15.



All of this are common parts. Slapped them on a prototyping board and voila.

Somebody posted a link to the DAS software earlier that works.

From http://www.short-media.com/forum/showthread.php?t=19549&page=9&pp=20 (]http://atom.port11.net/DB25.GIF[/URL)
Also check out posts on same page by 300PSI


Digital Alignment.

Sony, as most other monitor manufacturers use microcontrollers/DSPs to control the many different voltages required to drive a CRT so that it works and looks good.

After reviewing the schematics of the G500 it became apparent that the ECS port (thats what Sony call it - allows connection to a PC) is nothing more than RX/TX & GND. More importantly these signals run directly to the microcontroller inside the monitor to its UART pins. All of the I2C signals are generated by the microcontroller on separate lines.

The connection to the monitor is nothing more than a standard RS232<>TTL converter (AKA MAX232). These are available from a variety of sources.

My ECS port is labeled as CN503:

Pin 1 = GND / Ground
Pin 2 = STBY5 / 5VDC when monitor in Standby mode (use it to power the converter)
Pin 3 = RXD / TTL Connect to TXD of TTL<>RS232 converter
Pin 4 = TXD / TTL Connect to RXD of TTL<>RS232 converter

The connector is a 4 pin .100 header, all very standard stuff.


What I hope is that some kind sole will be able to send me the later Windows version of DAS so I can have a go at adjusting the G2 output.

I have done the resistor mod for now, albeit its not what I would like as the screen controls no longer function as they should (increasing brightness dims the gun output).


http://atom.port11.net/DB25.GIF

As you can see, the interface cable is not very complex.Doesn't have to be clean and fancy. This is a cable that just wants to work. And it's way cheaper if you just cut the serial cable you got at the garage sale for 50 cents.

Wow, way to slap it together. It just works.:cool2:

http://atom.port11.net/p1110/2.jpg

If you have wires and household tape at home, all you need is the IC,(max232*,hin232, etc. many chips convert ttl>rs232) and that costs less than 1$, I got 5 chips and 25 capacitors to go with them for 7.50$ including shipping, ttl<>rs232 conversion is common and used in cell phone data cables, robotics and other applications.

There appears to be a completed 4pin GRND,5v+,TX,RX to DB9 serial connector at this link for 17$, may want to check to make sure the 4 pins are in the above order, if not, it's trivial to change.

[url]http://www.hobbyengineering.com/H1994.html

I'm finishing a step by step howto on how to build a cable, install and enable windas, and edit the saved .dat files to change any setting on the monitor. It shouldn't be more than a couple days till release here on shortmedia.

HOWTO covering the following topics in step by step fashion with screenshots/photos/links

*Build your own monitor<>computer cable for under 10$, or buy a completed one for only 17$. I will detail the general procedure of what you need, how to get it, and what to do with it.Check out an earlier post by Atomist, this is as easy as cutting a serial cable you got at a garage sale for 0.50$.

*How to install windas and all .dlls and apply my patch to disable the need for the security key

*How change ANY setting on your monitor through editing the savefile (screen shot says it all)

http://img467.imageshack.us/img467/3503/foundg29ii.png

*HOWTO will cover any computer controlled sony monitor manufactured for any of their customers

http://img467.imageshack.us/img467/9475/setupmodsel6tp.png

*binary patch for das software eliminates need for security dongle,just what 300PSI needed

http://img363.imageshack.us/img363/9070/setupconf2ln.png

That alone is enough to fix the classic overbrightness problem without any hardware modification, you can save/restore/modify geometry settings, tweak the ABL settings etc.

In another Howto I will cover how to use a second computer as a signal generator while you use the first computer to adjust the monitor using the adjustment procedures in Windas. There are 100 'dynamic convergence' settings which you can adjust for perfect convergence this way. Dynamic because you do one set of 50 for low frequency modes and the next set of 50 for high frequency modes.

Thanks again to everyone on this thread for their information, insight, and success stories.:cheers:

[P991 DELL SONY]

The 'Preliminary Windas HOWTO' is ready for visitors! It covers Installation of windas, patching of windas, how to build/buy an Ecs cable, and how to edit your monitors settings! But you already knew that! Here it is!

http://www.geocities.com/ gregua/windas/index.html (http://www.geocities.com/gregua/windas/)

There is a screenshot for every step of installing/using Windas, the only part that really needs more work is the Ecs cable part. You can still find a reasonably cheap one to buy, and the parts you need to build one are listed, but I plan on getting photos of the whole process.

If any one from short-media is interested, I can get the text and compressed/indexed screenshots all zipped up and emailed whenever you want.
:clap::clap: :celebrate: :clap::clap:

[Gez_uk]

Thanks for all the effort and time you have put into this. A job well Done ! Software now works great with no dongle problems. I've reset the G2 level on my G500 to something much lower, the scan lines are gone and the screen doesnt look so washed out.

Thanks Again,

Gez.

:clap:


The 'Preliminary Windas HOWTO' is ready for visitors! It covers Installation of windas, patching of windas, how to build/buy an Ecs cable, and how to edit your monitors settings! But you already knew that! Here it is!

http://www.geocities.com/ gregua/windas/index.html (http://www.geocities.com/gregua/windas/index.html)

There is a screenshot for every step of installing/using Windas, the only part that really needs more work is the Ecs cable part. You can still find a reasonably cheap one to buy, and the parts you need to build one are listed, but I plan on getting photos of the whole process.

If any one from short-media is interested, I can get the text and compressed/indexed screenshots all zipped up and emailed whenever you want.
:clap::clap: :celebrate: :clap::clap:

[stay]

A hearty thanks and a fat cigar to all contributors, in particular "P991 DELL SONY" for his excellent grief-relieving guide and security circumvention trick ;)

I have a Sony E400 (refurbished by Sony UK in 2001), which had always been a *bit* bright. For example the very first thing I noticed when switching it on the first time I received it was nasty messy scanlines when mode switching.
Aside from that, the black level wasn't particularly poor, although certainly nothing like black.
Over a period of time this had gradually grown worse, just like a lot of other people here have experienced, eventually leading me just in the last couple of weeks to do a little reading and finding that I was in the same boat as everyone else.

Ordered a few components from Maplin UK a couple days ago intending to have a stab at tweaking the EPROM settings myself. They arrived this morning, so lo and behold when I do a little more googling this afternoon I find that someone has actually created a proper write-up just in the last week or so ! I couldn't believe my luck :)

Anyway, I used a MAX232 (the std one) on proto-typing board and a rats-nest of wires to connect an RS232 serial cable from the PC to the protoboard to the monitor.
If you have an old AT/ATX powersupply handy, you'll find that the floppy power connecter is a pretty good fit on the Sony interface socket, and this is what I used. Just remember that the wire colours are going to be slightly misleading ;)

Need to raise a couple of points.

On windows XP SP2 here, so regsvr32.exe resides in the %systemroot%\system32 folder. It's in the path, so "copy msflxgrd.ocx %systemroot%\system32" and "regsvr32 %systemroot%\system32\msflxgrd.ocx" are more appropriate. "%systemroot%\system" isn't in the path on XP by default.

After running windas and selecting the appropriate monitor and serial port/mode, windas bombs when attemping to select "Save Data to File".
Thankfully, it still remembers the settings you have chosen, and simply restarting windas and going straight to the "Save Data to File" option works fine.

Should mention that my E400 shuts the CRT down whilst EPROM reading/writing operations are in progress, usually for 15-30secs, and fires up again once complete.
The first time I performed a read operation on the display, i noticed afterwards that the Monitors external controls had ceased to operate!
Running windas again and performing another download operation restored the external controls.

Anyway, my E400's G2 setting was 106. I dropped it by 4-6 notches each time, testing in-between, and finally settled on 90 as a reasonable figure that gives pretty much a pure black screen in a black room at the user brightness setting of around 30. Much better than the constant 0 setting it had needed before whilst still displaying scanline-retrace during warm-up.

I'd like to reiterate just how important the initial DOWNLOAD and SAVING of the EPROM data from your monitor is. I started fiddling with some of the other options wondering what they did, only to find that the MPU option appeared to reset the data on the EPROM. The resulting display was horrible, although still readable, so I was particularly thankful that uploading the original EPROM data I had downloaded from the monitor appeared to restore everything to its normal state. If you don't have this data saved, you're in for a load of fiddling to get things looking ok again.

Again, I'm suitably chuffed with the results, so "P991 DELL SONY" thoroughly deserves all the plaudits he receives for all his work. :cheers:

[ginahoy]

The first time I performed a read operation on the display, i noticed afterwards that the Monitors external controls had ceased to operate!
Running windas again and performing another download operation restored the external controls.How did this manifest... did it lock your OSD?

[TheSmJ]

Your OSD locks whenever the software is about to read from the EPROM. If you disconnect the cable or turn off the monitor before the program gets the chance to re-enable it, you'll stay locked out until you reoprm and close the EPROM program window.

[ginahoy]

Your OSD locks whenever the software is about to read from the EPROM. If you disconnect the cable or turn off the monitor before the program gets the chance to re-enable it, you'll stay locked out until you reoprm and close the EPROM program window.Thanks for response. In my case, it's been several months since I ran WinDAS and the OSD worked fine afterwards. But it locked up last week after I powered down the monitor for a long trip, something I rarely do. The screen is noticably darker, perhaps having reverted to the default or a previous state. You know, it's possible this was the first time I had turned off the power since I ran WinDAS. Hmm...

Fortunately, I backed up my data file after tweaking all the settings so it should just be a matter of reloading that data file, and making sure I close the program properly. If I can just find my interface cable...

David

[P991 DELL SONY]

Aside from that, the black level wasn't particularly poor, although certainly nothing like black.
Over a period of time this had gradually grown worse, just like a lot of other people here have experienced, eventually leading me just in the last couple of weeks to do a little reading and finding that I was in the same boat as everyone else.


Anyway, I used a MAX232 (the std one) on proto-typing board and a rats-nest of wires to connect an RS232 serial cable from the PC to the protoboard to the monitor.
If you have an old AT/ATX powersupply handy, you'll find that the floppy power connecter is a pretty good fit on the Sony interface socket, and this is what I used. Just remember that the wire colours are going to be slightly misleading ;)

Need to raise a couple of points.

On windows XP SP2 here, so regsvr32.exe resides in the %systemroot%\system32 folder. It's in the path, so "copy msflxgrd.ocx %systemroot%\system32" and "regsvr32 %systemroot%\system32\msflxgrd.ocx" are more appropriate. "%systemroot%\system" isn't in the path on XP by default.

After running windas and selecting the appropriate monitor and serial port/mode, windas bombs when attemping to select "Save Data to File".
Thankfully, it still remembers the settings you have chosen, and simply restarting windas and going straight to the "Save Data to File" option works fine.

Should mention that my E400 shuts the CRT down whilst EPROM reading/writing operations are in progress, usually for 15-30secs, and fires up again once complete.
The first time I performed a read operation on the display, i noticed afterwards that the Monitors external controls had ceased to operate!
Running windas again and performing another download operation restored the external controls.



Thanks for your tips! Sorry that the .bat wasn't generic enough :( , I was in a rush just get the patch out and I didn't remember how to genericly refer to the system folder, neither did I know that XP doesn't have a sytem folder. I'll have that fixed soon, hopefully it hasn't caused anyone significant problems yet.

Nice way to get a 4 pin connector. I even had an old AT powersupply and didn't think of looking there. I really need to improve the cable building instructions.

I wonder why windas bombed the first time you tried to save? Anyhow, I should have mentioned that the OSD is disabled before you make adjustments, and will remained so if the program/procedure isn't closed properly.

Thanks for including your initial and adjusted G2 setting. I'm begining to think that in most cases G2 isn't raised at all, either by the MPU or by faulty components. Some property of the tube may be changing.

http://www.adrian-smith31.clara.co.uk/pctips/monitor_tips.htm

Toward the bottom of the above page there are tips on how to fix the common excessive brightness problem. He mentions that hid did find a faulty resistor once, but this quote gave me an idea.


..check R053 on the tube base board (G2 circuit) if OK the CRT may be leaky or the monitor requires adjustment due to normal CRT ageing.


I've always thought normal CRT aging was the wearing down of the cathodes such that they get dimmer and emit electrons from more surface area. I've remember reading from a TV repairman that a leaky CRT does cause excessive brightness, not sure how.

Maybe the beams hit air molecules in the tube and so the beam is scattered all over, causing brightness in areas that should be black? This seems to fit, because before I modified my G2, lowering the brightness to 0 actually dimmed the beams noticeably and caused lower intensity pixels to be swallowed by the grey pedastool.

This alone doesn't seem to fit with the scanlines being visible. But I've also heard from the same TV repairman that a leaky tube causes your EHT (extra high tension(voltage)) transformer to work overtime, and so you may also experience 'zooming', or when the image changes size when the number of the bright pixels on the screen increase. This is because an overworked EHT is harder to regulate, and so the HT deflectors which move the beams behave differently. Some people have complained of zooming, I have a slight problem with it myself, I'm not sure how normal it is, or if the hypothesized CRT leak is indirectly causing it.

If we find that the G2 setting in the EEPROM is basicly the same for everyone, and we all check our G2 circuit for faulty resistors, we can safely say the CRT is at fault. Hopefully, some one can explain this CRT fault as normal aging, if not, we've got to find a way to stop the CRT leak.

I'm only guessing about what could be wrong, I really don't see how the EHT transformer knows to work harder, or why it even should have to work harder if there is a CRT leak. I have less than a highschool understanding of electronics, so I hope some one more qualified can explain what is up with this brightness problem.

Here is the post I refered to from:
http://www.computing.net/hardware/wwwboard/forum/40226.html

Either forget that monitor or live with its problems as long as you can. All the drivers, software, or tweaking will not fix it.

Over brightness is usually a CRT cathode/heater leak.

Size increase with picture brightness is due to the EHT falling (scan coils then have more influence), and vice versa. If you have either a CRT problem or worn out EHT rectifier these will cause poor EHT regulation as the brightness changes with picture content.

None of this matters a fig. You can't fix it unless you are into that sort of thing and it wouldn't be worth getting it fixed (assuming anyone would even take it on).

I used to do TV repairs.


What he needs to explain is how a CRT problem causes poor EHT regulation?

And again, this is just a guess of what may be causing the problem, it may just be normal CRT aging, or as more initial EEPROM G2 values are posted, it may actually be the EEPROM setting. If the problem is just CRT ageing, we may be able to fix the EHT regulation problems by changing the ABL settings, and even if it is a leak, it could easily be pluged with something that doesn't burn or conduct and is fluid enough to fill small gaps.

I've read that a faulty IC could be the problem, not sure if that IC is controlled indirectly by settings in the EEPROM.

So anyway, let's hope our CRTs are not leaky, which we can confirm by posting initial G2 settings, wether or not our resistors failed, if we suspect an IC? (not sure how to suspect an IC), and if we have 'zooming' or other problems.

I didn't mean to scare anybody, just wanted to bring information up that could help find the real cause of the problem, and perhaps help us fix other problems like 'zooming' (which may just be normal, all the CRTS I've had do it a little bit,(lower end ones were really bad) but it'd be nice to get rid of completely).

Thanks for posting your accounts!:D

[mrtube]

hmm
my orignal G2 setting was apparently 172, its now 130.

tho heres, my question

we have a P780, the 17" version of this monitor,
it to this day, runs 50% on brightness, perfect blacklevel, has been on basically 24\7 since new, tho i did always use the standby function after 1hr.. so i donno total hours of use, but its up there..

i still, dont trust the "color restore" on the p1100, this is the one function the 780 DOES NOT have...

what does the color restore do? does it mess with the G2 level?
i cant see the crt being leaky, not ALL of them...
im not sure what a gassy CRT does, but gassy tubes in amplifiers very often hum..
gassy tubes also get weak very quick, short cathode lives... and test weak to begin with
id have to assume a weak crt would need a higher G2 level, not a lower one...

just an assumption :)
btw, using displaymates test for sizechange, the p1100 scores as well as any monitor ive ever seen, basically 0 change in size during blink tests. theres a nice test where half the monitor is bright white, and half black, and it switches top\bottom so u can see change easily, and atleast this p1100, basically doesnt change, atall
might be a HINT, but so little its impossible to tell

[ginahoy]

In my case, it's been several months since I ran WinDAS and the OSD worked fine afterwards. But it locked up last week after I powered down the monitor for a long trip, something I rarely do. The screen is noticably darker, perhaps having reverted to the default or a previous state. You know, it's possible this was the first time I had turned off the power since I ran WinDAS. Hmm...

Fortunately, I backed up my data file after tweaking all the settings so it should just be a matter of reloading that data file, and making sure I close the program properly. If I can just find my interface cable...DavidOk, I just ran WinDAS and re-loaded my backup Data file. The monitor, which is a P992, returned to nominal appearance. The OSD unlocked as soon as I clicked OK on the load screen. I then exited WinDAS and verified the OSD was still unlocked. I then powered down the monitor and removed the interface cable. When I powered back up again, the OSD was locked again!! I repeated these steps a couple of times, even loading a backup of my original dat file prior to making changes. Same result.

Of course, my problem may be unrelated to WinDAS. At least WinDAS enables me to temporarily unlock the OSD to make adjustments, if needed. I can live with that.

But if you have any suggestions, I'm all ears.

David

[Gez_uk]

So anyway, let's hope our CRTs are not leaky, which we can confirm by posting initial G2 settings, wether or not our resistors failed, if we suspect an IC? (not sure how to suspect an IC), and if we have 'zooming' or other problems.

I didn't mean to scare anybody, just wanted to bring information up that could help find the real cause of the problem, and perhaps help us fix other problems like 'zooming' (which may just be normal, all the CRTS I've had do it a little bit,(lower end ones were really bad) but it'd be nice to get rid of completely).

Thanks for posting your accounts!:D


I have the Sony G500 and my initial G2 value was 159. My screen was completly washed out and I had tri-colour (red,blue/green) tracelines on the screen.

I knocked the value down to 120 and my screen is perfect, colors vibrant and black, as black can be :)

Seems my G2 value is different to others, but you guys have 19" monitors and mine is a 21". However I thought the 19" would have a lower G2 value and someone posted they had a much higer G2 with a 19" than me.

Hope you find out what causes the problem and the the G2 Windas fix will keep our monitors running for a long time to come.

[mrtube]

not really, my 21" 120 value looked good too, but my girlfriend wanted a HINT brighter, so i gave her 130...




I have the Sony G500 and my initial G2 value was 159. My screen was completly washed out and I had tri-colour (red,blue/green) tracelines on the screen.

I knocked the value down to 120 and my screen is perfect, colors vibrant and black, as black can be :)

Seems my G2 value is different to others, but you guys have 19" monitors and mine is a 21". However I thought the 19" would have a lower G2 value and someone posted they had a much higer G2 with a 19" than me.

Hope you find out what causes the problem and the the G2 Windas fix will keep our monitors running for a long time to come.

[bub]

Hi, I've had a superbright Sony G500 for a few years now and I'm so glad that people have actually discovered a fix. I think I'll buy the RS-232 cable from hobby engineering and use the windas software to fix my monitor. I just have two questions. Is it normal to get those Astro SG errors when starting up windas? I can select my monitor model just fine in the menu. Also, where is the 4-pin port located on the G500? Maybe it's obvious and I just have to look harder :)

[ginahoy]

Ok, I just ran WinDAS and re-loaded my backup Data file. The monitor, which is a P992, returned to nominal appearance. The OSD unlocked as soon as I clicked OK on the load screen. I then exited WinDAS and verified the OSD was still unlocked. I then powered down the monitor and removed the interface cable. When I powered back up again, the OSD was locked again!! I repeated these steps a couple of times, even loading a backup of my original dat file prior to making changes. Same result.Since writing this, I solved my problem thanks to a little help from DW at eMusicraft. I'm not sure if other monitors behave this way, but with my P992, if I access the OSD prior to cycling the power, it will remain permanently locked when I power the monitor back up. By simply keeping my little fingers off the external controls until AFTER cycling the power, all is well. Who would'a thunk it?
David

[Gez_uk]

Hi, I've had a superbright Sony G500 for a few years now and I'm so glad that people have actually discovered a fix. I think I'll buy the RS-232 cable from hobby engineering and use the windas software to fix my monitor. I just have two questions. Is it normal to get those Astro SG errors when starting up windas? I can select my monitor model just fine in the menu. Also, where is the 4-pin port located on the G500? Maybe it's obvious and I just have to look harder :)


Finding the ECS port on the G500 requires the removal of the back part of the case. Be carefull that you do not break the top tabs of as they need to be sprung with a flatblade screendriver. The port is on the bottom right side.

I did'nt have any problems with the OCS locking once I had left Windas, however I was not able to use them when the cable was connected and the program was running.

[P991 DELL SONY]

hmm
my orignal G2 setting was apparently 172, its now 130.

tho heres, my question

we have a P780, the 17" version of this monitor,
it to this day, runs 50% on brightness, perfect blacklevel, has been on basically 24\7 since new, tho i did always use the standby function after 1hr.. so i donno total hours of use, but its up there..

i still, dont trust the "color restore" on the p1100, this is the one function the 780 DOES NOT have...

what does the color restore do? does it mess with the G2 level?
i cant see the crt being leaky, not ALL of them...
im not sure what a gassy CRT does, but gassy tubes in amplifiers very often hum..
gassy tubes also get weak very quick, short cathode lives... and test weak to begin with
id have to assume a weak crt would need a higher G2 level, not a lower one...

just an assumption :)
btw, using displaymates test for sizechange, the p1100 scores as well as any monitor ive ever seen, basically 0 change in size during blink tests. theres a nice test where half the monitor is bright white, and half black, and it switches top\bottom so u can see change easily, and atleast this p1100, basically doesnt change, atall
might be a HINT, but so little its impossible to tell

I was thinking along your lines untill I saw those posts from the TV repair people.They say gassy CRTs have over brightness problems, the early FD trinitron tubes are said to be cruddy (colors slightly change in corners), but I've heard people with tubes from as late as 2002 have the same problem. Those repair guys have found one with a verified resistor problem in the G2 circuit, but atleast 2 on this thread have found no problem with their resistors. There is some IC they mention.. not sure what it does of if it's behavior is adjust through the EEPROM settings.

I had forgot about color return. Thanks for bringing it up :D!

At the end of the white balance procedure, the monitor does the 'color return thing', presumably it mesures beam current at the end of the calibration. When you do color return again it mesures beam current then tweaks settings. I think you may be right, it probably touches the G2 when raising contrast to some limit fails to achieve the proper current.

But if color return measures current, can't it see there is too much current , atleast during darker pixels?

Or maybe, g2 doesn't increase current? and electron speed changes?

Well, we know the beam is 'swept' so it doesn't seem entirely unreasonable, but greater speed would mean greater current in the end.
I assume voltage only means more current, and that the voltage of this cathode ray is always the same, so basicly, the amount your screen glows is the amount of electrons hiting it?

Did anybody adjust the g1? it has opposite voltage from g2, I think it sits behind the tips of the cathodes? while G2 is a grid in the front that gives the electrons on the hot cathodes reason to move toward the screen.

I don't really know what I'm doing or what I'm talking about.

Anyone know how the beams are kept to only activate the phosphor of their respective color?Are they actually switching on/off reall fast? I guess if the horizontal freq doubled the beam would cover twice as much screen, but the RGB pulses would come twice as fast so it would cancel. Beam speed would need to be contsant, otherwise, the beam would squish by a non integer aomount of RGB strips, discoloring. The beam does squish toward the end of the scanline, so this can't be it. And how are verticle retrace lines still pure R G and B?

Maybe the phosphors have verticle seperation? but then there would be the same problem, only with the much slower vertical frequency. Magnets can cause it to discolor... so I wonder how the magnets used for convergence don't cause discoloring.)

The white balance is controlled by the Max and Min cutoffs for each gun and the Drive for each gun. These seem to be set by the =color section of the data, the color settings get swapped in/out from the current settings. There is no G2 in these settings.

How does warmup work? everyone says it's G2, but when switching video modes during warmup, the screen is black, unlike when you have a high G2 ( you would see some brightness). Maybe doing color return before the warmup is finished causes a problem?

Regardless, what really needs to be answered is how color return can do anything, yet not notice over brightness.

Has anyone noticed that pure black seems to catch 'reflected light' when you have something bright filling most of the screen? It makes the black level look brighter, untill you view a mostly black screen, then it looks fine. Changing the ABL_max_CNT doesn't change the affect. It seems weird that a monitor would be designed knowing that if the screen is bright dark will look less black because of reflection or something.
I need to try a small black rectangel in the middle of white, that would have least real reflection from the sides of the screen.

My G2 is pretty low now, I've gotten it down to 84 but that requires lots of contrast and even peak contrast doesn't get to the apropriate brightness levels for lower color temps (can't take advantage of blue color gun)( I use a colorimeter to do the white balance adjustment, been testing things and measuring xyY values). G2 of 90 currently, the bottom of the intensity curve become visible at about 55 on the brightness controll. It's funny that sony Windas wb procedure says in the begining "adjust G2 so first step cuts of and second step barely illuminates" I haven't figured out what the pattern is supposed to be yet, but at about G2=90 0 (RGB black) starts getting gray so those first and second steps of the sony grascale must be 0 and 1? Bumping up G2 and doing the white balance procedure hasn't changed the black level <> brightness relation so much as I expected, I should try higher G2s.

Anyway, the less contrast, the less screen distortion when the average brightness on the screen changes.

the ABL can be set to automaticly lower contrast in order to keep the average brightness below a certain level, if your contrast is high and your max average contrast is low, you REALLY notice the contrast lowering.There is also an ABL shutdown, which shuts down the powersupply when the average brightness changes too much, the MPU puts it at 255.. heh, white balance says "IMPORTANT! wait for luminance to stabilize", but it's already stable! so I don't know, if I wait too long it sets the average brightnes to something really low. Maybe this is something to do with my G2 being too low.

I'd be interested in hearing what your default ABL_MAX_CONT and ABL_SHUTDOWN values are? Not real important, but if you have the chance it'd be nice to hear.

Changing from a black on white cross hatch to a white on black crosshatch should show you distortion and is an ideal way to adjust your max average contrast and G2.

So, anyhow, I'm not entirely convinced that the tube properties aren't causing the increase in brightness. It goes against all my intuition to say that a leaky tube gets brighter, I still can't figure out why the TV people would be suspecting it. Some one needs to avoid doing color return for a long time, save their data file, do color return, then save another data file and compare them. I should look up some of the physical info about cathode ray tubes.

Thanks for your replies! I'll update the howto on http://www.geocities.com/gregua/windas/ soon as I figure out the root problem. I'm still fixing the style sheet and the layout of the info, I'm going to add generic CRT physics info as soon as (if?) I figure it out.

Oh and make sure to try the Dynamic Convergence procedure!!!!!! if you have two computers. It is well worth it!

[Lolotheguru]

Hi all !!!
First a big thank you to P991 DELL SONY for his excellent contribution !
I fixed a 21" IBM with no problem. It had the "too bright screen" problem. I used 120 as G2 value and it's a brand new monitor !

I have another question : I have a P97 IBM (Sony chassis) that has a sync problem... I have horizontal rolling bars on the screen. I wondered if it could be fixed using WinDAS ?

Any hint ?

Thank you

[P991 DELL SONY]

Horizontal rolling bars? Not sure what you mean exactly. What makes you think it's a sync problem? Either way, I don't think you could do much for that problem in WinDAS. There is a mode timings setting, which I think matches up the input signal to the stored geometry settings for a mode, other than that I can't think of anything else in WinDAS that talks about snyc. Try doing the failure info and see what that says.

I think your best bet is finding the service manual, and if it is a vertical sync problem, maybe replace parts that commonly go bad ( like caps) in the vertical deflection circuit.

Good luck with that, hope it turns out to be more simple than I thought!

Hi all !!!
First a big thank you to P991 DELL SONY for his excellent contribution !
I fixed a 21" IBM with no problem. It had the "too bright screen" problem. I used 120 as G2 value and it's a brand new monitor !

I have another question : I have a P97 IBM (Sony chassis) that has a sync problem... I have horizontal rolling bars on the screen. I wondered if it could be fixed using WinDAS ?

Any hint ?

Thank you

[Nottsguy]

I have just installed WinDas and am having a few problems with communicating with the monitor through the 4pin serial port using a pre built cable i brought online. it comes up and says Can't connect the Monitor! check bus line and condition. does anyone have any ideas??????

[P991 DELL SONY]

Which prebuilt cable? The bus line is your cable. I get this error when I don't plug the cable in very good. Make sure the pinout of the cable matches the pinout of the Ecs port. If you are refering to the pre-built cable I mentioned in my howto from Hobby Engineering, then make sure the pins are in the right order.


Hobby Engineering apears to have a completed adapter that will requre no assembly for 24.50 + S/H. Make sure to ask if the 4 pin pinout is (GRND, 5+, RX, TX) in that order, if not you can just switch them. This is a rip off, but atleast it's easy. Completed adapter


So, if you bought any odd ttl<>rs232 cable online, the serial side should be hooked up the same no matter what it is, the Ecs port on the monitor is (GRND, 5+, RX, TX) so make sure that is hooked up appropriately. Look inside the adapter and there should be a chip, google it's name and get the data sheet, now you know which wires are grnd,5+,RX,TX and you can put them in the right order. You may have to switch RX and TX, grnd and 5v+ are obvious.

In the case of the cable Hobby Engineering things are really easy, their website should say what the pinout of the 4 pins is, if not, email them about it.

Infact, any place you bought an adapter from should tell you the pinout of the 4 pins.

If you can't id the the chip and the people you bought it from are really rude, you could try all 24 combinations, maybe the colors of the 4 pins would give clues about which are tx/rx and which are grnd and 5v+.

If you know you have the pins in the right order, maybe you didn't connect the 4 pin connector snug enough.

Good luck!
I have just installed WinDas and am having a few problems with communicating with the monitor through the 4pin serial port using a pre built cable i brought online. it comes up and says Can't connect the Monitor! check bus line and condition. does anyone have any ideas??????

[P991 DELL SONY]

You guys should check out my avatar! No, it isn't just a black box. I've written messages in dark colors, some in the darkest color possible.I didn't change the font size from the lighter ones.. See if you can find the scecret word. Your monitors black should be black, if you can't read the message, increas the brightness (bias) untill you can. However, if your monitor isn't adjusted right , this may make your black gray, thus making it harder to see messages. The secret word message is all but invisible except on a perfectly calibrated monitor. I had thought I was all set up untill I tried this, distinguishing color 0,0,0 from 1,1,1 is extremely hard even with a big square of it. If you set your brightness (bias) too low in order to obtain a black black, your lower values will become just as black as 0,0,0. I hope everyone enjoys this teaser, let me know how well you display it.

[Nottsguy]

i checked out this cable and it seems to be wired ok! it is using a SP202EEN chip. but still no connection between monitor and WinDas.

i was thinking maybe WinDas that i downloaded off your site is not functioning as it should with Windows XP. is there another version you have that i could maybe try at all.

thanx for any help.

[P991 DELL SONY]

Others have used windas in XP with no problems, only reason it should be giving that error would be if you have the wrong comport selected under File->config, or your comport settings are wrong under windows ( but I think the program sets the comport settings itself). You did select the correct comport? Maybe try it in a different comport ( For probably no reason at all, I once was unable to get it to work on com2 but got it to work on com1? Maybe I had the wrong comport settings and forgot to check it.)
I don't know about another windas version, but if you find a later one, be sure to tell everyone. I wonder if Sony has windas for their LCD displays? Sony windas for their huge HD TV displays? It'd be interesting.

You can try dumping garbage into the serial port and seeing if you get a reply, that was how I tested that my cable was atleast wired properly and set to the right comport settings, so I could Isolate windas. Use HyperTerminal or something like that, I forget what the bytes are that generate replies, but a large file, or a random stream of junk should generate something.

Just to reiterate, it's super unlikely the API for doing serial stuff in windows has changed, so this isn't at all a problem with the version of windas. It's like upgrading to the latest windows service pack, probably not going to help.

Had a look at the datasheet, so yeah, you've got all the right stuff. Make sure the pins are in order ( which, I think you told me you did, but I can't be sure what you mean by 'wired ok', just checking) and that the plug isn't upside down.

Can't think of what else to say. Hopefully I mentione something you haven't tried, or that you find whatever the little something is that is causing the problem. I wonder how easy it is for the chip to get damaged? I don't really know, but if it can survive ESD, I think a +5v across something can't touch it.

From my experience it's rarely a problem like needing a new version, or a broken chip or whatever, it's usually the simple stuff you forget about.

Good luck.

i checked out this cable and it seems to be wired ok! it is using a SP202EEN chip. but still no connection between monitor and WinDas.

i was thinking maybe WinDas that i downloaded off your site is not functioning as it should with Windows XP. is there another version you have that i could maybe try at all.

thanx for any help.

[Nottsguy]

I got it working :bigggrin:, the wires were wrong in the cable like you said! but not i have another slight problem, i can save the dat file and read it etc but after i have edited it, i can't load it back to the monitor it says save format is different even thou i have changed nothing except a number and clicked save. any ideas?

[Gez_uk]

You guys should check out my avatar! No, it isn't just a black box. I've written messages in dark colors, some in the darkest color possible.I didn't change the font size from the lighter ones.. See if you can find the scecret word. Your monitors black should be black, if you can't read the message, increas the brightness (bias) untill you can. However, if your monitor isn't adjusted right , this may make your black gray, thus making it harder to see messages. The secret word message is all but invisible except on a perfectly calibrated monitor. I had thought I was all set up untill I tried this, distinguishing color 0,0,0 from 1,1,1 is extremely hard even with a big square of it. If you set your brightness (bias) too low in order to obtain a black black, your lower values will become just as black as 0,0,0. I hope everyone enjoys this teaser, let me know how well you display it.


Nice Avatar, I can read the first two messages and see the last but can't read it. Probably more to do with my bad eyesite than my monitor :)

[P991 DELL SONY]

Glad to hear you got the cable working!

What did you use to save the file? Wordpad in windows XP likes to save stuff as unicode rather than ASCII. Make sure you save the file in ASCII. Use notepad if you can (not sure if there is a notepad in XP, or if it has changed and doesn't use ACSII anymore). If all else fails use a hex editor, which is overkill, but atleast you'll be sure of which bytes you changed.

Good luck.
I got it working :bigggrin:, the wires were wrong in the cable like you said! but not i have another slight problem, i can save the dat file and read it etc but after i have edited it, i can't load it back to the monitor it says save format is different even thou i have changed nothing except a number and clicked save. any ideas?

[P991 DELL SONY]

That's amazing! I can barely read the first one without ruining my black level, and I'm only in 1280x1024.

Using a different gamma makes things easier though, I'm not sure how things are supposed to be though. Maybe 1,1,1 and 0,0,0 are supposed to be real close? A CRT without it's own gamma correction is said to have a gamma of 2.2 or something. I should look into that.

The sRGB color setting on my monitor doesn't have a real dark black, and I think it attempts to do whatever the sRGB gamma is in hardware.

Nice Avatar, I can read the first two messages and see the last but can't read it. Probably more to do with my bad eyesite than my monitor :)

[midieval10]

I was wondering if someone can help me out. I have a Sony 24" W900 (different from the one posted by someone else here). It has the brightness problem and I can clearly see the retrace scan lines. There is one really noticeable white one going right across the screen.
This monitor doesn't have the 4pin connector in the back. There is a service input that looks similar to an S-Video input.
I'm trying to find the R459 to solder the resistor but I can't find it. I've uploaded some pics of the back. Please help me find where to solder the resistor.

Edit: I've attached a pic of what plugs are in the back. Most of the Dells and Sonys here have that 4pin outlet. Mine has the S-video looking plug :rant:

[midieval10]

I think I MAY have found the resistor. Correct me if I'm wrong please! I don't have a schematic of the board. I'm just relying on the past comments on this thread. It looks like the faulty resistor is R1823 on mine(attached pic). But I don't know what type of resistor it is. It's some kind of blue bean shaped resistor?? (pic attached). Please help!!

[jimux]

Happy 60,000 page views.

[LAGRUNAUER]

Ok, I just ran WinDAS and re-loaded my backup Data file. The monitor, which is a P992, returned to nominal appearance. The OSD unlocked as soon as I clicked OK on the load screen. I then exited WinDAS and verified the OSD was still unlocked. I then powered down the monitor and removed the interface cable. When I powered back up again, the OSD was locked again!! I repeated these steps a couple of times, even loading a backup of my original dat file prior to making changes. Same result.

Of course, my problem may be unrelated to WinDAS. At least WinDAS enables me to temporarily unlock the OSD to make adjustments, if needed. I can live with that.

But if you have any suggestions, I'm all ears.

David

[LAGRUNAUER]

This very same thing was happening to me, and I succesfully tried this trick...

After the interface is connected to the monitor and the COM port, start WinDAS, backup the existing DAT file, and then load the corrected DAT file. Once the corrected DAT file is loaded, go to "Adjustments", then click on "Procedure", and then on "Final setting"; and once WinDAS confirms the input signal of 1600x1200, click OK, then as soon as the program ask you "Do you set the final values"?, then click OK, then exit WinDAS.

Without touching none of the OSD buttons, power down the monitor, and turn it off, then disconnet the interface. Wait for 3-5 minutes, then turn the unit back on, and the OSD should be unlocked.

The issue is I was not telling WinDAS to save the final setting values into the DAT file and to the EEPROM BEFORE exiting WinDAS, and that was the reason why the OSD locked up.

Try this trick... After several trials with different tricks, this one did it for me and perhaps it will do it for you, and to others who maybe experiencing the same hurdles.

Sincerely,

Luis A. Grunauer, Jr.
lagrunauer@aol.com

[bub]

My completed RS232 cable from Hobby Engineering came today, switching the cables to the correct order was easy. My G500's G2 value was 202, I'm going to try to find a good setting now. Thanks again for all the help guys!

[bub]

I was wondering if someone can help me out. I have a Sony 24" W900 (different from the one posted by someone else here). It has the brightness problem and I can clearly see the retrace scan lines. There is one really noticeable white one going right across the screen.
This monitor doesn't have the 4pin connector in the back. There is a service input that looks similar to an S-Video input.
I'm trying to find the R459 to solder the resistor but I can't find it. I've uploaded some pics of the back. Please help me find where to solder the resistor.

Edit: I've attached a pic of what plugs are in the back. Most of the Dells and Sonys here have that 4pin outlet. Mine has the S-video looking plug :rant:

I think you can find the ECS port in the bottom right of the second picture you posted (http://www.short-media.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=18844&d=1137397071). Earlier in the thread someone posted a picture of their sony monitor with a similar looking tab on top of the pins. Try and see if you can remove it.

[midieval10]

I think you can find the ECS port in the bottom right of the second picture you posted (http://www.short-media.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=18844&d=1137397071). Earlier in the thread someone posted a picture of their sony monitor with a similar looking tab on top of the pins. Try and see if you can remove it.
Thanks for your help, but this is the fourth time I've taken the cover off and I don't see any tabs that I could remove.

[P991 DELL SONY]

I think I MAY have found the resistor. Correct me if I'm wrong please! I don't have a schematic of the board. I'm just relying on the past comments on this thread. It looks like the faulty resistor is R1823 on mine(attached pic). But I don't know what type of resistor it is. It's some kind of blue bean shaped resistor?? (pic attached). Please help!!

That looks like a capacitor, I don't have the schematics to your monitor, but what you could try, is to trace back from the G2 pin on your CRT, it'll probably branch, but maybe you'll find a resistor somewher along the way.

Actually, after seing what your service port is, you shouldn't do the resistor 'fix', the resistor isn't faulty anyway, and it will throw off color return (it's probably already off, people seem to think color return is the thing that started the whole brightness problem).

[P991 DELL SONY]

Thanks for your help, but this is the fourth time I've taken the cover off and I don't see any tabs that I could remove.

What is wrong with the service port you found? That is a type of serial connector, I don't know the name, but my colorimeter uses it. It has an adapter (no circuit, just re wiring) with female end like that and a female DB9.(Incase I mixed it up , I'll add that I consider the DB9 on your computer male.)

Simply look up it's pinout and voila, it's got the same pins as the DB(DE?)9 and DB25 connectors.Actually, it probably has a +5v,grnd pair that I would think serial doesn't. But I don't remember my pinouts.

So once you find the pinout, you can probably follow the instructions un modified, or maybe, your service port puts out the signals at RS-232 levels, hence, you would need no circuit/chip.

Let us know how it goes, hopefully you can confirm whatever the case is for future readers with your type of service port.

Atleast you'll never have to take that cover off again ;)

I should update the howto at http://www.geocities.com/gregua/windas/ with the information about this alternative service port.

[pingooo]

Hello to all, I am a french student so please excuse me for my bad english. (it’s the first time I post here).

A few months ago I get a Sony CPD E500E 21'' monitor from a friend and it had the over brightness problem. After reading about the DAS solution on this forum I build a TTL <-> RS232 cable and used an old DOS version of DAS. This version of DAS gave some error message each time I tried to save the EPROM into a file (errors in reading the data). The problem is that I still performed the 'white balance procedur' without knowing anything of the values asked to set. So I adjusted the G2 but get a monitor showing incorrect colours and becoming slightly darker when displaying a white screen.

Yesterday I found the howto from P991 DELL SONY (many thanks to him for this great work) and I get to install winDAS and to save my (now bad) EPROM into a file. I tried a second time the white balance with winDAS and the monitor now looks better but still have this problem of becoming darker when showing something white and colours could be better.

I want to use this monitor for graphics and video editing and so I want to adjust the white balance exactly. I can get a colorimeter from a friend but I don’t know how to use it with winDAS and what I should do with all this setting winDAS is asking for during the white balance procedure.

Perhaps someone (P991 DELL SONY, you said you had performed it for your monitor) can explain to me each step of the 'white balance procedure' from winDAS, how I should set the parameters and what I should measure with the colorimeter. That would be a great help for me.

Many many thanks in advance for your help.

[Lolotheguru]

As a follow up on my repairs, I would say that I resurected 1 P97 IBM and 1 21" IBM. But I still have those P97 with both "too bright problem" (that I can fix with WinDAS but I did not find (as P991 DELL SONY stated) any sync. settings in WinDAS to fix the synchro problem. Is it possible that the excessive voltage on G2 had ****ed some capacitors or something like that ?
Can anybody tell me where I could find a good book on repairing monitors and TV ? (online or paper or PDF)

Thank you again !

Lo