View Full Version : Car speakers.
bothered
2 Jan 2005, 10:24am
Here's one for geeky or any of our other car experts.
At some point in the future I may change the speakers in my Toyota Camry. The ones that are in are very good, great sound with plenty of volume but I also realise they are stock speakers and things could be improved. Where is a good site to research speakers for car audio, or does anybody have any tips?
muddocktor
2 Jan 2005, 10:37am
bothered, I know they don't have a presence in the UK, but www.crutchfield.com is a good place to see what is a drop-in fit on your Camry. I just got some speakers and a cd/radio for my 240SX from them. They have some pretty good information on their site too.
The damn oem speakers in my 240SX rotted out all around the edges and they were made by Clarion. :rolleyes:
Geeky1
2 Jan 2005, 10:38am
What year and trim level is your Camry?
madmat
2 Jan 2005, 10:41am
Bothered, do yourself a favor and go to a reputable audio shop for cars and get a set of M.B. Quart speakers installed, they sound amazing and are worth every penny.
Geeky1
2 Jan 2005, 10:42am
Oh, don't forget the subwoofers. :D
bothered
2 Jan 2005, 10:45am
The year is 2000, it's a 2.2 auto. I don't want extra speakers (sub) but I know there will be better sounding one out there. MB quart? me goes googling.
Access_Denied
2 Jan 2005, 11:03am
MB Quart,JBL,Rockford Fosgate and Infinity are some of the best small to midrange speakers iv heard. Also if you can find a deal with a set of four would be better.
You can get the information from crutchfield but i highly suggest that you buy them elsewhere because they are very pricy and takes a long time to ship. it took 3 mons to get a pair of 3 1/2 infinitys i ordered from them. just find a set you like and get them from e-bay or whatever.
Gargoyle
2 Jan 2005, 1:26pm
I got speakers for my Toyota Camry (may it rest in peace) from Wal-Mart and installed them myself. Sony and Pioneer have decent 2 and 3-way speakers at Wal-Mart for dirt cheap. I think I paid around $50 for a pair, and they were considerably better than the stock ones. The rear speakers are the easiest to replace, you might start with those. I would use Crutchfield.com to find out which size to get.
Moral of the story - get them at a discount store and install them yourself if possible. There's no reason to break the bank for decent sound in your Camry.
EgoShowcase
2 Jan 2005, 2:25pm
If your just going to replace the OEM speakers then go with a cheap but reliable brand, you really wont tell the difference from i high dollar speaker unless you had a amp to help push it. For the best sound you could go with a component system. I recommend these strongly. Its one of the best ways to get your highs and Lowe's. You might end up in amp territory but you might be able to use a CD deck with 55x4.
bothered
2 Jan 2005, 3:44pm
I've already changed the player. Put in a nice Pioneer 4x50w CD\mp3 Player.
EgoShowcase
2 Jan 2005, 5:03pm
How much do you want to put into this?
Do you want to replace the front and back? Just front? just back?
bothered
2 Jan 2005, 6:59pm
Not a great ammount, I've got HiFi taste but 50 year old ears. The one that are in sound pretty good but I was thinking of 'upping' them a bit.
GnomeWizardd
2 Jan 2005, 7:17pm
Id say Infinity or clarion For you. Great sounding.
Quarts are pretty expensive, a set of four will set you back close to $900 US so unless you you're wanting HI-FI speakers I'd look elsewhere because they are costly.
The age of your ears has nothing to do with it though, it's the amount of noise and the amount of time you've spent exposed to it that matters, I hear as well as i did in my late 20's and I'm nearly 40, my dad on the other hand had tinitus (ringing of the ears...industrial deafness) bad by the time he was my age and now his ears ring so loud they wake him up at night.
It basically comes down to your lifestyle, if you've been going to Ted Nugent concerts for years and years (the Nuge held the worlds record for loudest show for a while) then I'd say go buy a nice $2-300 US set of Pioneer speakers and be happy, you'll get 70% the sound quality of Quarts at a quarter to a third the price.
If, on the other hand, you've babied your ears all your life by all means splurge and get good speakers, by good I'm talking expensive, and instead of investing in an amp invest in some quality sound dampning material...an amp is fighting the problem of a noisy car, a quiet car on the other hand will give you quality sound at reasonable volume levels that will engender you continuing to have your hearing intact.
You can Dynamat a car and achieve a 30db reduction in noise which equates to making the car 3 times quieter but to make a stereo 30db louder than say 1w of audio signal you'd need (get ready) 1,000w of amplification. Yeah these are honest figures.
I have done research on the subject extensively since I was about 10yrs old and my findings have led me to the belief that a quiet car with 1-200w of stereo power is way better than a middling noisy car with 1-2000w of power.
floppybootstomp
2 Jan 2005, 9:11pm
I was always taught that from birth your hearing sensitivity drops off from around 20K, regardless of how well you treat your ears. I was given to understand it's an age thing and there's not a great deal you can do about it.
I'd say my hearing's dropped off a little on the high frequency range, but it's a little hard to be subjective as it's such a gradual progress.
On another note but on the same subject, I'm also looking for some new speakers front and rear, so following this thread with interest.
My existing 4 are built in, Mercedes 280SE, they don't sound too bad but they're old. They measure about 7" x 3", eliptical and seem to have a unique fixing bracket to the car, so not sure if I can do a direct replacement.
I also picked up a Teac 10" bass speaker cabinet from PC World for a tenner, took out all the 5.1 gubbins and amplifier, fitted a heavy duty passive low pass crossover and a new back plate.
My player has a bass output but I need an amp to power this thing. So, anybody know of any 12 volt audio amplifier kits or designs? I can make the thing if need be. I thought I may have got away with using one of the amps in the cabinet but they were all powered by a split rail 15 volt PSU.
Or would I be better off buying a 12 volt monoblock from a car audio dealer?
bothered
2 Jan 2005, 10:23pm
You do loose the higher frequencys as you get older and not very much older either. I made a little prog on a spectrum years ago that just gave a rising scale of notes, you just pressed a key when you couldn't hear it anymore. The kids could hear higher frequencys than the adults.
Madmat, you are correct in what you say about volume, it's how long you're in it rather than how loud it is. The new CD player is 4x50w which is more than enough for me in a car but I only really play reggae, nice and bassy, when the rear view mirror starts shaking it's loud enough.
Geeky1
2 Jan 2005, 11:11pm
Bothered, according to Alpine, your car should have 5.25" front speakers and 6x9" rear speakers. You'll want to double check that before buying anything obviously, but with that in mind, I'd go with this:
Front speakers:
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-5f9ouNhDDFM/cgi-bin/Prodview.asp?c=10&g=51800&I=130TSA1370&s=0&cc=01
Rear speakers:
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-5f9ouNhDDFM/cgi-bin/Prodview.asp?c=10&g=52300&I=130TSA6991&s=0&cc=01
Geeky1
2 Jan 2005, 11:42pm
floppy: you need your ears checked. The stock speakers in the pre-1991 w126s sound like CRAP. :p
I'm happy with the setup I've got in my 560SEL, which is the following:
Front speakers:
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-5f9ouNhDDFM/cgi-bin/ProdView.asp?g=51400&I=130TSA4670
Rear speakers:
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-5f9ouNhDDFM/cgi-bin/Prodview.asp?c=10&g=52000&I=130TSA1680&s=0&cc=01
Subwoofers (x2):
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-5f9ouNhDDFM/cgi-bin/ProdView.asp?g=67700&I=107DB124
Mine are Polk GNX-124s, which were discontinued a few months back I think... I mean they're $150 subs and I picked them up from a reputable reseller for $30 each brand new, so they must've been discontinued and they were trying to get rid of their stock, but at any rate, those Polks should be almost as good.
Sub Amp:
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-5f9ouNhDDFM/cgi-bin/ProdView.asp?g=110&I=158XM2200
(hook one sub up to each channel)
Sub Enclosure:
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-5f9ouNhDDFM/cgi-bin/ProdView.asp?g=178650&I=044H8512DE
You'll need a wiring kit for the sub amp, and I'd have a professional audio shop install the subs (I did) because you have to pull the interior on the passenger side to run the power cable, and you have to run the signal cables from the rear speakers to the amp and it's just a pain in the ass.
The dash speaker grills come off after unscrewing the 2 screws that hold them in, the dash speakers are 3.5" units in a roughly 4x6" plate. You probably won't be able to screw the pioneers down (I wasn't able to), and they're very slightly too tall, but if you just stick them in the hole and screw the speaker grill down, they work fine (and no rattles either :p). The rear speaker grills are held in place by the back of the rear seat. Move the seat all the way forward (I believe all 126s had power rear seats), unbolt the seat bottom, slide it forward and out of the car, then unbolt the frame that retains the seatback. I forgot exactly how it comes out, but it's fairly simple- just don't try to force anything ;). Anyhow, there's then a trim piece that covers the gap between the seatback and the parcel shelf generated by the rear seat when it moves; unbolt that. The speaker grills just snap in; you need to pull them towards the front of the car (NOT UP!). Be careful, as the plastic is liable to be very fragile (I broke one of mine trying to remove it without pulling the rear seat). The rear speakers are mounted in angled "pods" with some kind of glue. Unscrew the pods, and pry the speakers out of them; the glue should be fairly weak, so you could just turn the pod over and whack the speaker magnet with a rubber mallet a few times while holding onto the pod and it should fall out. Barring that, you can always use a razor blade to slip into the joint and cut it. Once you've got the old speakers out, clean as much of the old adhesive off the pods as possible. I'd just use sandpaper (like 80 or 100 grit) to both remove the adhesive and roughen the surface for the new adhesive to grab ahold of.
Use silicon to glue the new speakers in place in the pods. Set the speaker down upside down, put a nice bead of silicon on the pod and put it over the speaker (the magnet is too tall for the pod to set on the surface, so the speaker needs to be facing down instead).
Also, Mercedes used a modular connector on these speakers. I desoldered the connectors from the old speakers and soldered them onto the Pioneers. I suggest you do the same, rather than cutting the end off the cable in the car and stripping that.
madmat
3 Jan 2005, 12:04am
As to the high frequencies I never really worry about them much in car audio because the highest frequencies "beam" as in the farther you are off axis from the tweeter the less you hear them anyways...high frequencies are very, very directional and easily absorbed (a single sheet of paper will absorb frequencies from about 18k up) so unless you're sitting in a car with the tweeters aimed right at your head within 20 degrees of axis you'll only be hearing from about 16k down with any accuracy anyways and if you've got the tweeters aimed at your ears the passengers in your car will have a very odd experience due to having good highs in one ear and dull highs in the other.
I try to setup my speakers to where I get even sound and good imaging (stage left sounds left, center sounds centered and stage right sounds to the right) and get as even a frequecy response as possible.
It's like PC's, it's all subjective though, what's golden for you might sound terrible to me and vice versa. :thumbsup:
Camman
3 Jan 2005, 12:14am
Honestly, if you're gonna get new speakers, just order from crutchfield and do it yourself.
Installation shops are going to charge you absorbant prices (best buy charges like $120 to install a deck, and they do a shoddy job at best)
Crutchfield sends you all the equipment you need (at no additional cost I might add, all you pay for is the equipment you buy; speakers/deck, etc)); wiring harnesses, adapters, and complete step by step instructions on how to install the speakers/deck. It's a pretty damn good savings too, wiring harnesses can run 30-40 bucks. I did my entire system; deck and front/rear speakers and it only took me a couple hours. Trust me, if you can build a PC, you can install your own car stereo. In almost all cases you can use your existing wiring.
As for keeping the existing plugs on them for factory speakers, what's the point? Unless you're planning on selling your car and putting you factory speakers back in, which seems like more of a hassle than it's worth seeing as how cheap speakers are, there's no need to and it's alot easier to just use the cables and hook them up to the speakers directly rather than cutting the adapters off the old speakers, then hooking them up, etc. It's a waste of time, any car audio place will tell you the same.
But seriously, do it yourself, shops rip you off for what is a very simple job. For the wiring harnesses, I went to Home Depot, got me some wire nuts and connected the harness for my car (which they send you) to the open ended one that comes with the deck and did the entire harness that way in like 20mins, very simple, plug it in and put it in place and you're good to go, then just cut off those factory plugs, make note of which colors are positive and negative and hook up the speakers and put them in place.
Geeky1
3 Jan 2005, 12:27am
Both Bothered and Floppy are in the U.K. dude, they can't order from Crutchfield ;) Installing speakers (at least in the dash and on the parcel shelf) should be pretty damn easy. Door speakers are likely to be a little harder... I wouldn't install a sub myself, at least not in a car like the W126 that Floppy and I drive... it'd take me like 6-8hrs to do it myself. I'd rather pay the $100 to have someone else deal with it.
As for using the factory connectors... the Pioneers aren't tailed iirc, so something has to be soldered to them anyhow... might as well be the factory connector.
Camman
3 Jan 2005, 12:38am
I bought a pack of electronics connectors, and theres one that you can put the cable through, then i put some shrink tubing over it, and the connector slides right onto the solder points
and also; i think all the info about the subs is unnecessary, bothered said he was just looking for speakers and i doubt he's going to be installing subs.
Geeky1
3 Jan 2005, 12:42am
Floppy is looking for new speakers as well dude, and he didn't mention whether he would be or not. And, considering that I drive the same basic car that he does (albeit with a slightly longer wheelbase and a 5.6L V8 instead of a 2.8L I6), I'd say that a sub or two would be well advised for him.
Camman
3 Jan 2005, 12:43am
Both Bothered and Floppy are in the U.K. dude..
Floppy is looking for new speakers as well dude...
okay, dude
floppybootstomp
3 Jan 2005, 12:58am
Whew.
Thanks for all the advice ;)
And OK Geeky, yep, OK, I suppose they do sound a bit s**t :D
That's why I want some new ones.
I've no problem with cabling, fitting all kinds of plugs and connectors where neccessary, I'm familiar with all that. Got me's a nice gas soldering iron for the task, a very handy piece of kit for working on cars or if you happen to be up a ladder.
I must admit the prospect of running a 12V power cable and also a speaker cable from front to rear is a little daunting but the majority would just go under the carpet so I'm cool with that.
I have a Sony CD player/Tuner with 4 x 50W output. Plays mp3's as well which is a bit good :)
I done a search for a 12V audio amp, was hoping to find a monoblock supplying between 25 & 50 watts, but can't find anything. Only one I came across was 10 watts. Which may actually do the job OK, if it's a true 10 watts into 8 ohms rms.
Or I may just buy a manufactured amp. I plan to put the woofer in the boot.
Thanks for the tips about 'cramming' the speakers in Geeky, I'll bear that in mind and check out the Pioneers & some others.
Oh, floppy... one other thing. The gas tank is between the trunk and the rear seat. Don't drill into it. ;) ;D
floppybootstomp
3 Jan 2005, 1:10am
Oh, floppy... one other thing. The gas tank is between the trunk and the rear seat. Don't drill into it. ;) ;D
I had a VW Transporter van for 8 years, the old type, Mk 2 I think, but a van rather than a camper.
The fuel gauge sender broke.
So rather than drop the engine/transmission and then the fuel tank, I cut a 6" square hole in the van 'floor' right above the sender, and replaced it.
Then fashioned an aluminium plate and used self tappers to hold it in place, then put my three quarter inch marine ply self made floor back.
To make the hole I used an angle grinder, which as you probably know when cutting metal, makes a lot of sparks. Above the fuel tank. That was a bit hairy :D
Reckless, me?
But yes, I shall be aware of that one, I thank you ;)
You do loose the higher frequencys as you get older and not very much older either. I made a little prog on a spectrum years ago that just gave a rising scale of notes, you just pressed a key when you couldn't hear it anymore. The kids could hear higher frequencys than the adults.
Madmat, you are correct in what you say about volume, it's how long you're in it rather than how loud it is. The new CD player is 4x50w which is more than enough for me in a car but I only really play reggae, nice and bassy, when the rear view mirror starts shaking it's loud enough.
Hi Bothered,
I'll turn 60 next month but I still enjoy my Smooth Jazz & Rock & Roll. I belive that the ear protection I wore when working in Mills helped preserve my hearing and all pistol shooting I've done didn't.
I have built several systems for myself and living in the U.S. I've had great results with Parts Express. Here is a link for them.
http://www.partsexpress.com/webpage.cfm?&DID=7&WebPage_ID=30
But I'm sure paying for shipping across the big pond wouldn't be cheep.
I've only used a shop when I've had to have holes drilled in my doors ($50) for speaker in my 1970 sweet little 142S Volvo. I found a local guy ($100 & 8 hrs.) to cut the dash install the deck and mount and wire the rear Amp (bought off eBay) I put a big 12" woffer in a thick box in my hugh trunk. Then drilled a hole through the shelf behind the rear seat to let the bass pound through.
Have fun,
-=Volvo=-
Folding 24/7 :thumbsup:
Parts Express is cool, I got the amp for my sub from them a couple of years back.
bothered
3 Jan 2005, 9:19am
Lots of interesting stuff here, thanks all. What started me on this was like I said, I play mainly reggae. I had one car where the speakers ripped themselves apart because of the bass, not that I play it that loud but there is a lot of energy in that bass. With my new player (Pioneer DEH-P5630MP) you can feel the bass in your chest and it's only at half volume. I don't know the power rating of the stock speakers, they can handle a lot of volume and sound quite nice but the player is obviously capable of damaging them. I may take a speaker out and have a look at it just to see what it is.
EgoShowcase
5 Jan 2005, 12:40am
Oh, floppy... one other thing. The gas tank is between the trunk and the rear seat. Don't drill into it. ;) ;D
The sad thing about that is I did that on my Crown Vic mounting a amp. Had to drop the tank and get it welded.
An bothered if all you want to do is replace the paper speakers you have then go with Sony or pioneer at you local best buy, walmart or UK equivalent.
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