DELL P1110 monitor too bright - Page 9

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GTI

New to the neighborhood

1 Posts

24 Apr 2005, 3:17am

I just fixed mine. I used a 10 Mohm 1/4 watt resistor (couldn't find any 1/2 watt or 1 watt at my local electronics store and hutzelman's picture looked like a 1/4 watt). I soldered it in parallel with the existing one (I think that one is 1/2 watt) and now I can finally see black on my monitor.

The hardest part was getting the damn plastic cover off. After scratching the hell outta everything it was like "Oh, that's how it comes off". Basically remove the 2 screws. Get something like a putty knife and pop it in at the top and bottom of the sides of the monitor to free the tabs. Then use something like a flat head screwdriver and push down on the two tabs on the top of the monitor. You should be able to see those tabs on the top of the monitor easily.

The resistors only cost me $2 for 100. To think that a 2 cent resistor saved my monitor from the dumpster. I would have just bought something newer instead of spending the money at the repair shop. Yeah most of the cost would be the diagnostics. Thanks to everyone here and also to the hutzelman web site

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ppSM

New to the neighborhood

1 Posts

9 May 2005, 7:38pm

Thanks.

I just finished the mod/repair on my P1110 and the black is rich and creamy!

Mine was a "refurbished" monitor. Cheap enough but I noticed after a while that black just wasn't black. Last time I searched, I found nothing. This time, this thread was #1.

I looked inside and found that a repair had been attempted. The two mismatched resistors had a total impedence of 8Mohms and one was a 1/4Watt or smaller.
(by the way, the plastic tabs everyone was referring to are a the top of the monitor on each side. look for little slots)
I replaced them with a resistence of 6Mohm and things were better.
Looking closely, I could see that I wasn't as black as could be and brightness was still at 0.

I opened 'er up and used a 4Mohm impedence and this time everything was REAL dark. Way too dark. Remembering some wise words from earlier in the thread, I went shopping, came back and pressed "color restore".

BINGO

Perfect.

You guys kick ass.

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shodan

New to the neighborhood

1 Posts

10 May 2005, 7:30am

Hi,

I found the DAS and WinDAS software , but now I'm looking for a cable
I tried looking for one on ebay but no luck

I assume the versions of das I have are cracked or else I'll have to fix that too

I read that Xweenie sucessfully made an interfacing cable , did anyone received some schematics or anything about the pin out/protocol/levels etc.. that this connection needs ?

thanks !

(btw , I have a lot of sony monitors from that time and a lot of Dell P1110 they all work great but I'd love to be able to get under the hood without using my weller and scope so any further contribution would be extremely welcomed !)

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zero

Getting settled in

6 Posts

12 May 2005, 8:48am

Hi!

I have also Sony E500 monitor with brightness problem.

I will try the fix, but i also have other problems:

All horizontal lines have some kind of "shade" so all lines are doubled(for example in Exel). Vertical lines are ok. Cable should be good.

Any ideas what to do?

-zero

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TheSmJ

Whatever!

3,985 Posts

12 May 2005, 8:59am

Sounds like either your focus setting on your monitor are out of whack, or your cable is indeed bad. Have you tried the monitor on other computers to make sure it's not just one machine?

I wouldn't even bother with fixing any brightness issues if the monitor is really that messed up in the first place.

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mrtube

Getting settled in

9 Posts

12 May 2005, 10:22am

perhaps convergance?

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atomist

New to the neighborhood

2 Posts

15 May 2005, 11:33pm

I have build the adapter to communicate with the monitor and hooked it up and it works. Now I think I have the too bright issue but I get following error:

H Stop: Error
H Stop: Error (Picture)

If anybody is interrested in seeing my adapter go here:
http://atom.port11.net/p1110/

Having that error I have issues adjusting settings.

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300PSI

New to the neighborhood

3 Posts

18 May 2005, 8:28pm

I have a Sony G500 that has displayed this same problem of over brightness, I have spent and wasted allot of time on this problem, nonetheless I pass on to my brethren all I have learnt in the last 48 hours. I leeched enough information from other posters to form an educated opinion. For those that want to know, I am an EE who works in the embedded processor field, I just state this as there is more than the fair share of disinformation on topic that has been posted.

a) Electrical Safety
I do not, and have never worked on monitors (up until now) due to the inherit safety issues. Gents, 50ma through the body will KILL. DEAD � HEART STOPS � DEAD. All TV�s and monitors contain lethal voltages (it�s actually the current that kills but at 10KVA inside a monitor it doesn�t matter that much).

Even turned off and unplugged these monitors still have enough power stored to kill; the screen alone WILL hold its charge for several days (even with bleed off resistors).

If you must work on your monitor always use the one hand rule, only use one hand and keep the other in your pocket. Makes working difficult but it decreases the risk of death by an order of magnitude.

b) Infamous resistor change for G2.
I downloaded a schematic of my G500 and had a look at the whole G2 voltage issue. In my case all of the components were OK it is a corrupted E2ROM that is causing the processor to over drive the G2.

The voltage level of G2 is controlled by two feedback resistors, namely R457 & R459. These provide feedback to an opamp that controls the voltage on G2, which is also driven by a PWM signal that the monitor�s processor controls.

Contrary to what has been posted on this thread about the wattage of the resistors they carry very little current. The reason that 1/2W is specified has to do with the input being 1500V, which can arc across a very small space. 1/2W resistors are long and are also bound in nonconductive material (plastic/ceramic).

I made my 10M resistor out of 5 x 2Meg 1/8watt resistors in series. Easy to find, just soldered them together and then put them inside heat shrink tubing.

The trick is to add the resistor in parallel to R457 (NEVER attempt doing this on R459). R457 only carries a fraction of current as R459 is on the high side (1500V).

There is another issue with changing the feedback via resistors, it will cause the op amp to become unbalanced which will show when you attempt to change the brightness & contrast on the monitor through the front panel.

Its not an elegant solution but the modification is simple and it works. The best method is to use the DAS software which I cover in our next series.

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300PSI

New to the neighborhood

3 Posts

18 May 2005, 9:15pm

Digital Alignment.

Sony, as most other monitor manufacturers use microcontrollers/DSP�s to control the many different voltages required to drive a CRT so that it works and looks good.

Sony has software called Digital Alignment System or DAS that is run on a PC and connects to the monitor. It allows an inordinate number of variables to be changed, all of which have to be set just right for the monitor to display the colors correctly and in a nice crisp manner.

One of our posters had talked about the Sony DAS software which piqued my interest. It requires the software, an interface box and a special cable.

At first I was worried about signal inversion or other problems (it was mentioned earlier in the thread that the Sony converter box actually converted the RS232 to I2C) and is just hearsay.

I have written firmware on many occasions to communicate with I2C devices and there is no simple method to generate the correct timing pulses from a PC via RS232 to correctly talk to an I2C bus device.

After reviewing the schematics of the G500 it became apparent that the ECS port (that�s what Sony call it - allows connection to a PC) is nothing more than RX/TX & GND. More importantly these signals run directly to the microcontroller inside the monitor to its UART pins. All of the I2C signals are generated by the microcontroller on separate lines.

The connection to the monitor is nothing more than a standard RS232<>TTL converter (AKA MAX232). These are available from a variety of sources but RE Smith make some inexpensive ones @ RS485.COM.

My ECS port is labeled as CN503:

Pin 1 = GND / Ground
Pin 2 = STBY5 / 5VDC when monitor in Standby mode (use it to power the converter)
Pin 3 = RXD / TTL � Connect to TXD of TTL<>RS232 converter
Pin 4 = TXD / TTL � Connect to RXD of TTL<>RS232 converter

The connector is a 4 pin .100� header, all very standard stuff.

I downloaded a copy of the DAS J4.1.2.1 software; DOS based only and turned out to be somewhat of a waste of time. My monitor will talk to the software but then immediately shuts down due to a version mismatch. This was after I wasted many hours transferring it to a DOS box and screwing around with it.

What I hope is that some kind sole will be able to send me the later Windows version of DAS so I can have a go at adjusting the G2 output.

I have done the resistor mod for now, albeit its not what I would like as the screen controls no longer function as they should (increasing brightness dims the gun output).

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TheSmJ

Whatever!

3,985 Posts

18 May 2005, 10:25pm

http://rs485.com/prs232it.html

Is that the converter you used?

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300PSI

New to the neighborhood

3 Posts

18 May 2005, 11:33pm

I apologize for any vagueness in specifying the converter I used, I just happened to have one laying around (I do allot of comms work).

The converter used is RS232IT from RS485.COM. You DO NOT need to purchase a transformer to power it - the power can be supplied from the monitor. You MUST make sure that J5 is set to A (rather than B), this bypasses the regulator and allows power to be supplied by Pin 4.

This is the cable I made for the G500 to the RS232IT, the RS232IT has a 4 pin .100" header that can be connected directly to the monitor with a cable.

Monitor--------------R232IT
Pin 1---GND----------Pin 1---GND
Pin 2---STBY +5VDC--Pin 4---+5VDC (connect NO power is needed)
Pin 3---RXD----------Pin 2---TXD
Pin 4---TXD----------Pin 3---RXD

Standard cross over for serial comms, but do please be careful about Pin 2 as it can F-Up the monitor if you accidentally connect it to ground.

Regards

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300PSI edited : 18 May 2005 at 11:40pm . Reason: Spacing was all crap

atomist

New to the neighborhood

2 Posts

19 May 2005, 2:32am

I built this adapter with parts from jameco electronics for ~$15.

http://atom.port11.net/DB25.GIF

All of this are common parts. Slapped them on a prototyping board and voila.

Somebody posted a link to the DAS software earlier that works.

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zero

Getting settled in

6 Posts

30 May 2005, 7:26am

WinDAS is available somewhere in the net, but it requires dongle

I want to know that it is possible to adjust focus with DAS(dos based) software or is there other way to adjust focus? In my case all horizontal lines have "shade" under(about 1,5mm) the "real" line. Computer and cable are ok.

Older model this was easy to do with potentiometers...

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Xweebie

Icrontic Convert

11 Posts

30 May 2005, 8:23pm

Quoting zero

I want to know that it is possible to adjust focus with DAS(dos based) software or is there other way to adjust focus? In my case all horizontal lines have "shade" under(about 1,5mm) the "real" line. Computer and cable are ok.

Older model this was easy to do with potentiometers...

You can do focus on the flyback, there are two adjustments. These adjusments are usually fixed in place by some white paint. They should not need readjustment under normal circumstances. Maybe instead the problem is convergence?

Focus:
Adjust F2 focus VR for best vertical focus.
1) Adjust the F1 focus VR for best horizontal overall focus.
2) Repeat F1 and F2 as there is some interaction.

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Xweebie edited : 30 May 2005 at 8:28pm .

zero

Getting settled in

6 Posts

31 May 2005, 11:20am

Quoting Xweebie

You can do focus on the flyback, there are two adjustments. These adjusments are usually fixed in place by some white paint. They should not need readjustment under normal circumstances. Maybe instead the problem is convergence?

Focus:
Adjust F2 focus VR for best vertical focus.
1) Adjust the F1 focus VR for best horizontal overall focus.
2) Repeat F1 and F2 as there is some interaction.

Thanks! This helps me a lot. It is not convergence, i have already tried it.

-zero

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Vegeta

Getting settled in

5 Posts

5 Jun 2005, 9:28pm

I have a Dell P1130 (an OEM Sony CPD-G520) and also have the brightness problem but its different from what has been said by all of you here.

My monitor is manufactured in 'Dec 2003' and 'Made in Mexico' and the casing colour is a silver/grey front with a black back.

Basically 3 out of 5 times I switch on the monitor, the brightness is 30% more than it should be making blacks look like faded grey so I have to switch the monitor off 2 or 3 times before the image is displayed at the correct brightness.

Anyone have similiar problems or know how to fix this since its a P1130 I'm talking about here with "CHASSIS CR1" and not a P1110

Also as someone mentioned earlier about the picture flickering for 2 seconds and returning after extended usage, I also have this problem and it usually happens after the monitor has been on for over 2 hours or so.

Any help would be greatly appreciated

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Xweebie

Icrontic Convert

11 Posts

6 Jun 2005, 12:25am

Quoting Vegeta

Basically 3 out of 5 times I switch on the monitor, the brightness is 30% more than it should be so I have to switch the monitor off 2 or 3 times before the image is displayed at the correct brightness.

Also as someone mentioned earlier about the picture flickering for 2 seconds and returning after extended usage, I also have this problem and it usually happens after the monitor has been on for over 2 hours or so.

Any help would be greatly appreciated

Not familiar with that model but in any case maybe more information is needed.
When the brightness is incorrect, is the number displayed in the on screen menu for brightness incorrect also (does it change or remain constant regardless of brightness)? Are all colors equally bright, or does the screen take on some particular hue? Have you tapped the chassis in various places when it's on to see if anything changes?

On the flickering also.
Is the screen blanking or jumping or do you mean brightness changes?

You would have to find the out of spec voltage during the too-bright condition. There should be an easily measurable difference when it is ok and when it is not. Since it reverts to normal it does not sound related to the usual P1110 defect.

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Vegeta

Getting settled in

5 Posts

6 Jun 2005, 2:57pm

Quoting Xweebie

Not familiar with that model but in any case maybe more information is needed.
When the brightness is incorrect, is the number displayed in the on screen menu for brightness incorrect also (does it change or remain constant regardless of brightness)? Are all colors equally bright, or does the screen take on some particular hue? Have you tapped the chassis in various places when it's on to see if anything changes?

On the flickering also.
Is the screen blanking or jumping or do you mean brightness changes?

You would have to find the out of spec voltage during the too-bright condition. There should be an easily measurable difference when it is ok and when it is not. Since it reverts to normal it does not sound related to the usual P1110 defect.

The brightness number remains constant when I have the brightness problem. I have contrast set at 50 and brightness at 42 with colour temp at 9300k.

All colours are equally bright, it just seems the brightness goes up by about 30% making blacks look like faded grey. I have tapped the chassis and there is no change only power cycling the monitor a few times resolves the problem.

The flickering I'd say resembles the kind of flicker/picture jump you get when you change screen resolutions. I run the monitor at 1280x1024 @ 75Hz.

Its driving me insane and I don't want to open up a high voltage monitor

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Vegeta

Getting settled in

5 Posts

6 Jun 2005, 10:59pm

Ok, I decided to change the 15-pin VGA D-Sub cable from one that had no ferrite cores to one with 2 ferrite cores and the problem so far seems to have been eliminated.

Can a VGA cable with no ferrites really cause a random brightness problem?

I do still have the flickering problem but I have managed to find a way to trigger it anytime.

Basically if I right-click any video file on my PC (Windows XP Pro) I get the flickering for 2 seconds.

I still don't understand why its happening. I only recently did a clean install of XP and I have also tried various other gfx card drivers and switched out my gfx card for another one.

Here is a short video clip I made illustrating the problem:

http://rapidshare.de/files/2223736/VIDPROB.AVI.html

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Vegeta edited : 6 Jun 2005 at 11:49pm .

anoah

New to the neighborhood

1 Posts

8 Jun 2005, 6:04pm

Hi,

I'm very happy to have found this thread with all the useful information.

I have 2 Dell P1130's that are way to bright to use.

I am desperately looking fo the das software that can be used without a security key. If you have a copy or a link could you PLEASE email or private message me?

Thank you!

Albert

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