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csimon
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csimon
7,090 Posts
14 Sep 2004, 3:01am

Contracting a new home

Ok here it finally is.

Friday I went to State Farm for a one year builders risk policy required to build a new home.

Tomorrow is the day we get the builders, electrical, plumbing, and culvert permits. I'm sure the only reason this dinky town requires so many permits is for revenue. This one light one cop town hasn't much else to go on but it will be my future homestead.

Wednesday appointment at lawyers office to close the construction loan.

Thursday get delivery of form lumber, stakes, wire mesh, rebar and polyethelene(sp?) vapor barior and begin forming up.

I think that the lumber yard keeps estimated prices good for up to 6 months. And with Ivan on the way that may be my one saving grace.

I'll keep up the progress and post pics as we make progress.
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MrBill
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MrBill
2,135 Posts
14 Sep 2004, 4:32am
Hey Chris,
Be sure the builder pays for all the materials. I saw on the news more than once where someone paid a contractor to build a house, but since he did not pay for the materials, they were stuck with paying AGAIN.

Hope everything works out well for you and you get exactly what you want.
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primesuspect
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primesuspect
28,248 Posts
14 Sep 2004, 4:43am
Can't wait to follow this thread. This should be totally cool to watch.
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Madball
Resident Carpenter
Madball
410 Posts
14 Sep 2004, 5:38am
Good luck with the build csimon. I build homes for a living and just started to build my own. If you have any questions feel free to ask.

our house: http://www.jballfamily.com/House.html
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csimon
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csimon
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14 Sep 2004, 5:45am
Quoting MrBill
Hey Chris,
Be sure the builder pays for all the materials. I saw on the news more than once where someone paid a contractor to build a house, but since he did not pay for the materials, they were stuck with paying AGAIN.

Hope everything works out well for you and you get exactly what you want.
Oh no I am paying the lumber yard, concrete co., etc myself seperately.
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csimon
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csimon
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14 Sep 2004, 5:47am
Quoting Madball
Good luck with the build csimon. I build homes for a living and just started to build my own. If you have any questions feel free to ask.

our house: http://www.jballfamily.com/House.html
cool thanks.
It look like you are using some styrofoam forms for the footings.
Are the walls prefabbed somewhere else?
They almost look like those foam sandwich walls.
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primesuspect
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primesuspect
28,248 Posts
14 Sep 2004, 5:47am
Awesome pictures, madball. My sons aren't much older than 3, and I can imagine how excited they would have been to see two cement trucks
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Madball
Resident Carpenter
Madball
410 Posts
14 Sep 2004, 6:44am
The foundation walls are ICF's (insulated concrete forms) built on site. They are 2in of ridgid foam on both sides of the concrete. They work really well in colder climates and are very easy to use.
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Red Dawn
The Guy In The Corner
Red Dawn
255 Posts
14 Sep 2004, 12:16pm
Quoting primesuspect
Awesome pictures, madball. My sons aren't much older than 3, and I can imagine how excited they would have been to see two cement trucks
i grew up around construction sites because of my dad. got to do so many things that made most of my friends jealous. even got picked up from skool in vechiles from the site that my dad would "borrow" to go get me, used to spend a few hrs every day on site waitin for my mum to pick me up when she finished work. of course it wasn't all fun an games my dad made me work in the office sortin stuff out but as i got older i got roped into workin there full time soo much fun, so many great memories.

yup prime 2 cement trucks are fun to see but my dad spoilt all that an took me up to the top of a tower crane when i was young nuttin beats that
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KingFish
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KingFish
3,629 Posts
14 Sep 2004, 1:34pm
Good deal CS. I look forward to seeing the progress too. Maybe we'll be doing the same after we get wiped out during Ivan (keeping my fingers crossed).

KF
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GnomeWizardd
Silent But Deadly
GnomeWizardd
7,411 Posts
14 Sep 2004, 4:31pm
yea down here its alittle different. you pull one permit. BUt firtst the plans and engineering and surveying must e done. then the lans are submitted for approval and you recieve a permit. then you start. after each phase. slab, walls,tiebeam, roof,interior framing,pluming rough, electrical rough, insulation, you have to have an inspection. after that. the drywall, trim, paint, cabinates, countertops, carpet, all dont get inspected. the final inspection is called a CO ( closing Option ) IF that passes you are good to close on the house nad move in.


I go through this almost everyday as I am a residential contractor and subcontract for one ofhte biggest construction companies in south florida. right now we have 600 home under construction. we will build and complete over 1200 homes a year
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Justin
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Justin
927 Posts
14 Sep 2004, 4:34pm
I have been in the mortgage business with construction loans for some time now so if something seems fishy, post it or PM me, I am at your service!
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csimon
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csimon
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14 Sep 2004, 4:46pm
Quoting Justin
I have been in the mortgage business with construction loans for some time now so if something seems fishy, post it or PM me, I am at your service!
Thanks I appreciate that Justin.
I grew up next door to my agent so as of now I have the utmost trust in him ...I'll let you know though thanks again. csimon
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csimon
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csimon
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14 Sep 2004, 4:50pm
Quoting Madball
The foundation walls are ICF's (insulated concrete forms) built on site. They are 2in of ridgid foam on both sides of the concrete. They work really well in colder climates and are very easy to use.
what are the walls just 1/2 wafer on studs? are you using batt insul or blown wool?
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bothered
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bothered
4,548 Posts
14 Sep 2004, 7:41pm
csimon, a word of advice, make sure the plumber sites the toilet far enough out that the lid stays up otherwise you'll have to keep hold of it. I hate that.
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Madball
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Madball
410 Posts
14 Sep 2004, 7:43pm
Quoting csimon
what are the walls just 1/2 wafer on studs? are you using batt insul or blown wool?
The walls are 1/2 OSB and 2X6 studs. I'll be using a blown fiberglass in the walls. The fiberglass has stuff in it that makes it sticky so it doesn't settle to the bottom of the stud bay over the years.
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Leonardo
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Leonardo
14,843 Posts
15 Sep 2004, 2:05am
Good luck to Simon and Madball. Nothing that audacious for me; I'm just waiting for the closing date on our existing home purchase in mid-November. Madball, 2X6 stud construction has become mandatory for new construction in southern Alaska. Don't know if it's required in Montana, but it's definitely a smart choice.
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KingFish
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KingFish
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15 Sep 2004, 2:20am
I would definitely trust 2X6's a lot more than 2X4's. 2X4's just seem too flimsy for weight bearing walls IMO, especially for southern lousyana where we get this kind of weather.
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Madball
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Madball
410 Posts
15 Sep 2004, 2:37am
On a normal one story house, load bearing exterior walls can be 2x4. They can support that weight just fine. The main reason to use 2x6 is for added insulation value, you can obviously get more insulation in a 5 1/2" cavity versus a 3 1/2". If the house is over 2 story, then you must use 2x6 to support the extra weight.

Engineered lumber is becoming much more common these days. The quality of dimensional lumber is getting worse all the time. Trying to find good quality affordable 2x10's or 12's is almost impossible. There will be a day when you won't see any dimensional lumber in homes.
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Clutch
I'm the man in the box
Clutch
4,814 Posts
15 Sep 2004, 3:01am
Can't wait to see some progress pics posted. This should be pretty darn cool to see the house getting built. I have always had a dream of getting my own house one day, and hopefully it will come quicker than I had thought.

Madball, same to you, keep the pics coming. Also you got a nice sig there, I love that pic, looks very cool.
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csimon
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csimon
7,090 Posts
15 Sep 2004, 3:22am

Re: Contracting a new house

Quoting Madball
On a normal one story house, load bearing exterior walls can be 2x4. They can support that weight just fine. The main reason to use 2x6 is for added insulation value, you can obviously get more insulation in a 5 1/2" cavity versus a 3 1/2". If the house is over 2 story, then you must use 2x6 to support the extra weight.

Engineered lumber is becoming much more common these days. The quality of dimensional lumber is getting worse all the time. Trying to find good quality affordable 2x10's or 12's is almost impossible. There will be a day when you won't see any dimensional lumber in homes.
Ditto on the 2x6 vs 2x4 comment.
Down here in southern louisiana insulation is important.
I'll using 2x4's on all walls with r15 batt insulation ...owens corning can still do the job.
So ...it will be 2x4 r15 batts - 1" foil back foam - tyvek - air space - brick (r19+ total).
Under porches it will be 2x4 batts - 1/2" foil back foam - tyvek - durock - stucco (r19or+ total).
Corners will be 2x4 r15 batt - 1/2" foil back foam - 1/2" waferboard - tyvek - finish (r19+ total).
According to owenscorning/DOE the walls for this zone (4) should be r18 - ceilings r49 - I think that r38 ceilings are most efficient personally.
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csimon edited : 20 Sep 2004 at 6:01am .
KingFish
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KingFish
3,629 Posts
15 Sep 2004, 3:25am
Make sure you get plenty of termite treatment into the ground underneath the slab and around the perimeter too!
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danball1976
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danball1976
2,633 Posts
15 Sep 2004, 3:52am
A house we had built (Continental Homes) lived in had 2x4 exterior walls, the only 2x6's used in the house was the interior load bearing center wall (it was a 2 story, 4 bedroom 2 1/2 bath house). However, this was in Phoenix, Arizona.
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csimon
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csimon
7,090 Posts
15 Sep 2004, 3:58am
Quoting KingFish
Make sure you get plenty of termite treatment into the ground underneath the slab and around the perimeter too!
spoken like a true louisianian!!!

If you want a structure to supress 120+ mph winds then look to hexadome or even geodesics. Michael Busick over in Ft. Meyers FL has American Ingenuity homes there and he builds a dynamite concrete igloo!!!
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csimon edited : 15 Sep 2004 at 4:06am .
csimon
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csimon
7,090 Posts
15 Sep 2004, 4:21am
ok ...to give you guys an idea of what the house will look like when it's done here are a few drawings.
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csimon edited : 15 Sep 2004 at 5:08am .
csimon
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csimon
7,090 Posts
15 Sep 2004, 4:22am
...and a few more.
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csimon edited : 15 Sep 2004 at 5:09am .
danball1976
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danball1976
2,633 Posts
15 Sep 2004, 4:41am
Not really understanding the bedrooms next to the kitchen and breakfast area. The bedrooms need to be on the other side of the house, where your porch is now, and the porch be put where the bedrooms are now. Sort of a logical "all the bedrooms are in one area" kind of thing, and you can go and eat outside without carrying the food very far. If you do that, you can extend that porch to meet the front porch and have a partial wrap around porch.
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csimon
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csimon
7,090 Posts
15 Sep 2004, 5:00am
Quoting danball1976
Not really understanding the bedrooms next to the kitchen and breakfast area. The bedrooms need to be on the other side of the house, where your porch is now, and the porch be put where the bedrooms are now. Sort of a logical "all the bedrooms are in one area" kind of thing, and you can go and eat outside without carrying the food very far. If you do that, you can extend that porch to meet the front porch and have a partial wrap around porch.
Actually ...I wanted to put the kids bedrooms in another state but the wife had the final word! The jungle noises coming from the master bedroom scares kids anyway!!! LOL
Besides I wanted to be able to see television from breakfast - living - kitchen areas. The dining will be my office. The back porch is where I will drink my coffee every morning - bbq every weekend - rest at the end of the day and after doing yardwork.

The front columns are 9'x16"d turned concrete. A friend and I developed the moulding detail proportions years ago and they've become extremely popular in this area over the years. 95% of the concrete columns in this area are poured with little to no structural integrity.
These columns are the most structurally sound (unless you find steel) you will find anywhere and can mostly be found in commercial applications nationwide. They can be turned to any profile within reason of a lathe. I think they are used at the University of Deleware or Virginia I can't remember.
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csimon edited : 15 Sep 2004 at 5:17am .
Clutch
I'm the man in the box
Clutch
4,814 Posts
16 Sep 2004, 12:16am
I like the idea of the garage on the side. For some reason it looks odd to me to have a garage at the front of the house. Nice layout.
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csimon
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csimon
7,090 Posts
20 Sep 2004, 1:21am
ok we received forming materials thursday evening after closing on the loan at my lawyer's (cousin's) office. By friday at 4:00pm the very next day the crew had already formed up and are ready for scraping and trenching on monday! I knew a few of the crew and I used to play volleyball on Sundays with Bubba Flemming. I could tell some stories but that's another thread.
Anyway to begin here we go:

Thursday materials delivered ...
Friday forming ...front view with pecan grove at rear.
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csimon
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csimon
7,090 Posts
20 Sep 2004, 1:26am
Right from front corner view with pecans and fencing.
Right side view at front showing porch and front section.
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csimon
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csimon
7,090 Posts
20 Sep 2004, 1:27am
center section showing rear porch.
rear section showing garage.

See that 1x4 board that is elevated above the rest?
At the tip edge of it is the floor height ...the top of the 2x8 propped vertically on the ground is the brick height. The slab is elevated 11.25 inches above the brick ledge for a "raised porch" effect.

We may pour on friday this week.
The slab is monolithic not spread foots for those who are wondering why this looks odd.
I'll be more than happy to explain any of the technique in detail if anyone is curious but this is the method most commonly used in this territory.
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csimon edited : 20 Sep 2004 at 1:34am .
Mt_Goat
Relentless Pursuit
Mt_Goat
4,937 Posts
20 Sep 2004, 1:50am
What, not digging? What about slab base and sub-grade?
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csimon
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csimon
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20 Sep 2004, 1:59am
Quoting mtgoat
What, not digging? What about slab base and sub-grade?
We scrape sod and trench footings tomorrow.
Then ledges and floor forms will go in.
Plumbing and a little electric (1 floor recept.).
...a heap of fill sand (about 16").
...rebar, wire mesh, and polyethelene barrier.
...termite treatment.
Pour Friday!!!
We'll probably make two seperate pours ...one for the main slab and the second for the garage and porches. Maybe idunno undecided at this point.
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Madball
Resident Carpenter
Madball
410 Posts
20 Sep 2004, 5:02am
It looks so weird to not have at least a crawlspace. Slabs don't work around hear. It gets too cold. Looks like a nice neighborhood.
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csimon
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csimon
7,090 Posts
20 Sep 2004, 5:47am
Whatsa crawlspace? LOL j/k
We don't have very much of a frost line here but one hella flood plane.
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GHoosdum
tequilavangelist
GHoosdum
10,378 Posts
20 Sep 2004, 2:20pm
to csimon and this thread.

I can tell you've educated yourself well on this topic, cs!
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csimon
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csimon
7,090 Posts
20 Sep 2004, 3:17pm
Quoting GHoosdum
to csimon and this thread.

I can tell you've educated yourself well on this topic, cs!
Thank you Ghoos!!
Honestly I've been designing houses for 30 years now and teaching it for over half that time ...

I can take constructive criticism too because I know what my wife wants and this is what's making us both happy. Not everyone will agree will one or many parts of the design but that's ok.
Of all the houses I've designed over the years I always given the client what "they" want and I just provide expertise on the matter ...they are financing it and they have to live in it so it's up the them and their individual tastes. I haven't always agreed on all phases of what they want but to each his own you know? I just advise the best I can and let them make the final call. It works out for both of us that way!
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csimon edited : 22 Sep 2004 at 3:05am .
csimon
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csimon
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22 Sep 2004, 3:06am
Day 2 ...brining in sand ...spreading and compacting.
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csimon
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csimon
7,090 Posts
22 Sep 2004, 3:10am
1.) view of garage area before fill sand
2.) steel reinforcement in place inside one footing.
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csimon edited : 22 Sep 2004 at 3:28am .
csimon
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csimon
7,090 Posts
22 Sep 2004, 3:15am
1.) view at rear porch showing reinforcement in trench.
Here you can see sand that has fallen into the trenches ...the steel will be removed temporarily and trenches cleaned. This is to make sure that all steel measurements are fit.
2.) Next view of master bath closets and bedroom area with full height of compacted fill sand. The total height of sand from grade is 15".

Notice some clay placed up against the forms. This is for added strength to prevent what is known as "blowout". Once you've seen one you'll never forget it. It can be very costly.
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csimon edited : 22 Sep 2004 at 3:38am .
csimon
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csimon
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22 Sep 2004, 3:23am
1.) Jason in action. I grew up with this guy but he went to a different school. He's doing all of the moving and spreading on the site. He told me this morning that he didn't leave the site until 7pm. I took this pic at approximately 5pm.

2.) Day3.

Plumbing and electrical begins and perimeter earth trenches are final. Now for some interior load bearing sand trenches.
Secondary bathroom plumbing.
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csimon edited : 22 Sep 2004 at 3:50am .
csimon
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csimon
7,090 Posts
22 Sep 2004, 3:25am
1.) left to right refrig plumbing and island plumbing and electrical.
2.) master bath area vanity and shower plumbing.

Both trenches shown here are sand depth trenches.
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csimon edited : 22 Sep 2004 at 3:32am .
csimon
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csimon
7,090 Posts
22 Sep 2004, 3:30am
1.) master air bath & water closet.
2.) foreground left to right salon wash bowl, half bath lavatory and water closet, and laundry with basin.
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csimon
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csimon
7,090 Posts
22 Sep 2004, 3:35am
1.) rear porch filled with sand.

2.) living are with floor receptacle in place.
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csimon
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csimon
7,090 Posts
22 Sep 2004, 3:43am
The front porch has finally taken shape. Notice the plinth forms. The top of plinth will be equal to floor height. Porch is dropped 3.5"'s from floor height and slope is about 144:1 to the end of the porch. So nearest the house it is 15"'s from grade and the edge is about 14" or a little more.
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csimon
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csimon
7,090 Posts
22 Sep 2004, 3:47am
corner plinth and footing at side porch. That form needs to be reworked to incorporate the porch.
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csimon
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csimon
7,090 Posts
23 Sep 2004, 12:24am
Day 4.

Prepped for the return of Ivan with polyethylene. Steel reinforcement going into place. Termite protection. One form left at side porch to be completed along with rear post forms needs adjusting and installation.

Day 5.

Ivan the terrible + rain = work on details.
Here is the column detail ready to go to the manufacturer. I'm also giving him my old KR7A-R 2000+.
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csimon edited : 23 Sep 2004 at 6:55pm .
Mt_Goat
Relentless Pursuit
Mt_Goat
4,937 Posts
23 Sep 2004, 12:45am
Lookin' good!!!

I still can't get used to slabs and burried utilies down here. I would still like a basement with the heat & A/C and all utilities where I could get to them. It also makes for a great place to keep your vino!
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csimon
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csimon
7,090 Posts
23 Sep 2004, 1:21am
basements can be had in this area but I would never put anything below the natural grade. I've designed about 3. Each use waterproof concrete walls that are erected above grade and then bermed up. They're not underground but they are under dirt! LOL
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Home Search Assitant has captured me ! Please help ! jlr820 Resolved / Inactive 14 22 Aug 2004 3:54pm
home sweet home... Xenos General Banter 3 8 Jun 2003 10:08pm

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