when i plug in any thing on the second PCI-E slot it makes my first slot run at 8X

because all my PCI E X1 is been BLOCKED by my Graphics card.... so i plugged in my Wifi PCI E on the second slot of PCI E X16

any ideas how to fix this?

Why is the 3080 TI Faster then the 3090??? by 10~15 more FPS?? is it because the 3080 TI OC has Higher boost clock??
"3080TI OC"
1785 MHz (Boost Clock)
1755 MHz (Boost Clock)
"3090"
1725 MHz (Boost Clock)

Thanks

https://www.amazon.com/Black-4TB-Performance-Hard-Drive/dp/B0792G331G/ref=sr_1_2?crid=1TL6R70S2UI3S&keywords=wd+black+4tb&qid=1660101816&sprefix=,aps,446&sr=8-2

• Microsoft Windows 11 and Windows Server 2022 support
• AVX2 and FMA accelerated 64-bit benchmarks for AMD 4700S Cardinal CPU
• Improved support for Intel Alder Lake CPU
• Aqua Computer LeakShield sensor support
• Improved support for processors with 64 or more cores
• Matrix Orbital EVE4 and VoCore LCD support
• Enhanced support for LGA-1700 motherboards
• Support for VMware Workstation v16
• Ramaxel AM620 and AV310 SSD support
• GPU details for AMD Radeon RX 6600M and 6700M Series
• GPU details for nVIDIA CMP 50HX, CMP 170HX, GeForce RTX 3000 LHR Series

Edit: Knowing that boards need flashed these days(?) I'd prefer the easiest of those.

so i tested my Old wifi 802.11ac
"https://www.amazon.ca/ASUS-Dual-Band-Wireless-AC1900-Adapter-PCE-AC68/dp/B00F42V83C"

so i attached the 802.11ac antenna's on my Mobo and im getting Worse performance.....
is the wifi 6 antenna made different ?

This one looks good but is a little more than I was planning to pay.
https://www.bestbuy.ca/en-ca/product/hp-17-3-touchscreen-laptop-silver-intel-core-i7-1165g7-1tb-ssd-16gb-ram-windows-10/14996747

Opinions appreciated!

im always a Intel Fan but i heard Ryzen is better now days and i dont know what CPU to get for Intel anymore due to there new ODD NAMES!!!

right now im thinking of
AMD Ryzen 5600X
ASUS ROG STRIX B550-F GAMING (WI-FI) Mobo
Or
MSI MAG X570 TOMAHAWK WIFI Mobo
Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2x8GB) DDR4 2666MHz (CMK16GX4M2A2666C16)

Old parts im still going to use to save $$$$

2080 Egva
750W gold Corsair

Old PC
i7 4790K
asus z97-e Mobo
any ideas what i should change??? Thanks

I had been waiting for Fitbit to use the IP they bought and release a new comparable watch that was essentially a Pebble with a Fitbit name on it, but that didn't happen. So, I guess I need to stat looking for a replacement which is not a Pebble. I'm still looking at the Fitbit Versa as one of the closest to what might have been a Pebble successor, but it feels very fitness focused (of course) and I want to make sure I chat with my smart friends about it before I make a decision, especially since I haven't really been paying much attention to the smartwatch space since I've had my Pebble Time.

So here's the deets:

I fell in love with the Pebble Time for its e-paper screen that allowed it to last for a couple weeks between charging, and have an 'always-on' face, so that I don't have to 'activate' it somehow, just to see the time. I'm pretty sure no one picked up the e-paper screen torch when Pebble was bought out, but if someone is doing something similar, I'd like to hear about it.
Battery-life is a concern, of course, as I like to wear it while I sleep for sleep-tracking, and wake alarm.

I've also really enjoyed having a customizable watch-face, so that I can change it up to match the band or occasion.

The must-have, killer app on the Pebble for me is called "Gentle Wake" and it's been my alarm clock for years now, and I'd like to make sure I can have something comparable on my new watch. Gentle Wake monitors my sleep, and specifically tries to wake me up when I'm at a light portion of my sleep cycle, leading to more pleasant wake-up times. Not sure I can live without that app now. Having to switch back to a normal alarm clock on the nightstand or whatever would be hard (partially because without the need for an alarm clock on it, I don't even have a nightstand anymore...

I also have an app that give me turn-by-turn directions on my watch from google maps. losing that would be a shame.

Also, I'd like to avoid proprietary bands, if I can, especially considering the extensive collection of NATO bands that I've been using on my Pebble, would hate to have to replace that with just one or two very pricey bands that only work on one watch.

I don't care much about games. I have little desire to play games on my watch, so that's whatever.

I also don't need a lot of fitness features. I like the sleep tracking, and simple steps tracking is nice, but I don't need a heart-rate monitor or anything like that on my watch.

My budget is not much concern. I only buy a smartwatch once per decade, apparently, and having one that does what I need is pretty important to me so, as long as I'm not burning money for no real reason, I'm not too worried about cost.

Thanks in advance for suggestions.

https://www.dell.com/en-us/work/shop/cty/pdp/spd/optiplex-7070-ultra/cto01o7070uffus

The Problem:

I experience intermittent bluescreens, no matter the configuration or part setup or drivers. Some more finicky games (WoW is the major one, pubg I think is included) also throw exceptions quite a bit. These happen under all types of load (idling, gaming, zipping large packages), with a huge range of time (two minutes after restart, four days of no problems, all in between). I've done a TON of testing and debugging and checking, to no avail. And so I turn to you!

I haven't found anything to reliably cause a crash. Today I had a crash from restarting from a crash, starting my music player, walking away to get the mail, and hearing it bluescreen and restart as I was sorting letters. It's crashed during stream viewing, youtube viewing, game playing, and playing music with nothing else open.

To date, it has NOT crashed while running memtests for more than a day, and putting the system under significant benchmarking strain doesn't cause it to happen more frequently, so far as I can tell.

Errors:

Bluescreen codes seem random. KMODE_EXCEPTION_NOT_HANDLED, DRIVER_OVERRAN_STACK_BUFFER, PAGE_FAULT_IN_NONPAGED_AREA, several others.
Sometimes the bluescreen is yellow!
Sometimes the system just freezes and restarts without a code or dump.
WoW's errors are uniformly ACCESS_VIOLATIONs stating that pointers were to memory that couldn't be written to or read from. Research into this issue as its own thing has yielded no results so I do include it as a symptom here. No guarantees.

The Build:

OS: Windows 10 Enterprise (currently trial)
PSU: EVGA Supernova 850W (site)
CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 3700X (site) with stock Wraith Cooler
Motherboard: Gigabyte X570 Gaming X Rev 1 (site)
RAM: G.Skill Ripjaw V DDR4-3200C16S-16GKV at XMP timings and voltage, x2 in dual channel (site) (QVL with motherboard)
Video: Gigabyte RX5700 8G (site)
Monitors: Dual AOC G2460 @ 144hz, 1920x1080 8-bit RGB via DisplayPort (have used HDMI as well)
4 HDDs: OCZ-Agility3s, WD Blacks, on sata, Mushkin Pilot-E on NVMe, each used solo in testing (including a known good from another machine that I formatted just for testing).
USB: Deathadder 3500 mouse, Microsoft 4000 Ergonomic keyboard
Sound: Tested with onboard, USB headphones, X-Fi Xtreme PCI card

Testing:

RMAs: RMA'd the graphics card AND the motherboard, both came back as okay.

Temperature: Temps are stable, all remain under 72degC even when under load.

Voltages: No real voltage jitter seen during idle or under load.

Memory: memtest86 for 48 hours, memtest64 for 10 hours, windows 10 memtest tool twice, all pass.
Tried running at default speed and voltage.
Tried single sticks in each of the 4 slots available.
Never ran at higher voltage than XMP's 1.35V recommended.

CPU: The triangle lined up, seated with 0 force, lever locked into place, cpu was not loose after lock went in. Used thermal paste, seated heatsink, locked heatsink down.
Never overclocked.
Original purchase from newegg had totally legit-looking packaging but someone had stolen the 3700X and left a poorly-cleaned 1700X in its place. I sent that back and my current one totally shows up as a 3700X in hwinfo and other tools sooooooo...

Cabling: All cabling came from the rig this is upgrading which worked without issue.
Sata cables swapped with other known-good cables.
Modular power supply cables swapped out.
Checked for loops, kinks, cuts, weird looseness.
Tried using different sata power plugs in the power lines.
Tried different SATA slots on the motherboard (there are 6, tried 6).

Power: Motherboard has a 24-pin and an 8-pin power lines, both are plugged in.
Swapped in another known good power supply (Thermaltake Toughpower 750W Modular (site)). Issue still occurred, even after trying different modular cabling.
Tested grounding through case, and all motherboard screws, to the surge strip ground successfully.
Tested system laid out on non-conductive surface without a case at all.

Video: Swapped in a known-good Nvidia 970. Seeeeeemed to crash less, but no real data and still bluescreened.
Turned off all special settings via Radeon, set to single monitor 60hz 1920x1080 over HDMI to AOC monitor.
Turned PCIE to version 3.
Disabled hardware acceleration for browsing and discord.
Never overclocked.

Drivers and OS: Verified Win10 install iso via sha256sum. Installed via USB.
DISM and sfc come back clean (other than some noise that other places on the internet say is the windows default antivirus interfering and is completely normal).
Clean installs to various other hard drives tested solo (no other large disks) to no avail.
I've used Gigabyte's drivers (chipset, driver) for motherboard and video, and the AMD-available newer ones, in available sequence.
Also installed gigabyte's motherboard tools to no effect.
BIOS for motherboard has been updated and rolled back and updated again multiple times, testing each available new update.
Display Driver Uninstaller used in safe mode and in normal mode to remove video drivers, while not connected to internet, installing video drivers in normal mode without internet connection.
Just in case, even installed non-generics for the monitors to no avail.

Next:

God that's a lot. Sorry. I've gone through quite a bit trying to get this working. Thanks for nosing through, and thanks to the folks in Discord who tried there too!

Let me know if there is more information you'd need or suggestions for things I haven't done yet. My hope is I've missed something elementary that I just don't know to do, or something. I do not have the kind of money that would allow for randomly buying parts, and nobody near me has current-gen parts they can spare for testing. I'm mostly ready to just switch back to the old parts until things have gotten better a couple months from now, but I want this to work, dammit!

The newest part is only a few years old. The graphics card, a GeForce GTX 1060, I'm tempted to reuse in a new build but... Then I wouldn't be getting a fresh start. I've been Ship of Theseus-ing this PC since like 1992. It's time to make a completely new PC. puts down foot dramatically

So...I don't really know how to do that. I don't follow along with the hardware conversations anymore. My interests moved on from the ins and outs of PC hardware market years ago, and all the model numbers and compatibility advice on-the-wibblies makes my head spin. I don't know. Does this mean I'm an old now? Anyway, I'm digressing here. I need advice for purchasing a new PC.

Here's what I need, simply:

• Plays modern PC games.
• Runs two monitors (I think all graphics cards do this now, but just to be sure.)
• Has a lot of USB ports for all my studio and gaming peripherals. (seriously, I'm using all 10 on my current PC, and had to buy a powered hub to handle more.) [insert Isiea USB hub image here.]
• Runs quiet (will be in my studio. I have solutions for filtering out the PC noises from my recordings, but quieter is still better)
• much RAMs and HDs for A/V editing
• Deliverable to my flat in Munich
• budget 2k€-2.5k€
• I do not require flashy or colorful pieces. It can be a plain beige box for all I care (tho, I have a feeling that's not even an option anymore).

It's okay with me if I don't have to LEGO the system together after it arrives. In fact, I may be willing to pay a small premium to not be required to do this. If it costs about the same to have the system arrive ready to use, I'm good with that.

I think that's all that you need to know before performing this valuable, yet somehow free, service for me.

Thank you in advance for any and all assistance in this heavy endeavor.

So, first thing, I thought it must be heat, maybe something about the new flat was making it run hotter? But no. I monitored and logged the temps within the case and with that core temp monitor for weeks, and nothing was running outside of normal operating parameters.

So, I thought it might be memory, so I ran Memtest86 (CLASSIC STUFF HERE MAN) But it ran all night and came back clean, so not the RAM.

So, I reinstalled Windows. At first it seemed to help, it went like a whole week without crashing, but then they started getting more and more frequent again, and now it's back to 2-3 times/day.

This leads me to believe that something about some combination of apps or app settings is the culprit because it didn't start crashing as much again until after I was really back up and running all the same stuff I was running before with all the background apps and everything.

SO: First, is there any way to figure out what is going on when it crashes? I'm pretty sure there is not, but if someone has some esoteric way to figure out which bit of software is causing my PC to hard-crash on the reg, that would be super.

Otherwise, it seems like my next step is to start swapping out bits of hardware, but I don't really have a bunch of hardware laying around these days, so I would prefer if there were other ways to test the hardware (like Memtest does for RAM) to see if it's the processor or the mobo or the GPU or what dumb bit of tech in my box is doing this to me.

Any help is appreciated. ( I can't live like this anymore)

System specs:
Win10
Gigabyte Z77X-UD5H mobo
Intel Core i7-2700K CPU @ 3.50GHz
GeForce GTX 1060 3GB
16GB RAM (I know 8 of it is Crucial DDR3L-1600, but I don't remember the other 8)

Searching online is finding mostly USB powered speakers which still require 3.5 for the audio input. The only actual USB input speakers I'm finding are like 10$, and that seems like I'll be getting some really shitty speakers.

Anyone have experience with USB speakers? Or have any recommendations.

Bonus if I can get them on ZonDE, but ZonCOUK also ships to me.

Budget points we're considering are sub $1k, and up to $1,500.

Obviously, I prefer to buy @Thrax's shit, but if Intel and or Nvidia powered units hit the mark better, then oh well.

Things I don't need:
PSU - had to upgrade about a year ago, put in a 650w gold rated Corsair
Monitor- Still rocking my 1920x1200 Samsung SyncMaster T260HD, and while I would like a new monitor, it is definitely not a priority.
Keyboard/Mouse - what I have is fine and has chugged along since before this computer, hell, I think the keyboard is 15+ years old, the mouse is an OLD Intellimouse Explorer 3.0 and I have two more unopened in my closet.

Things I need: everything else!
I am thinking about a Ryzen5 based system. Don't need any fancy RGB crap, I already hate the light on my old Zalman HSF. Would like a decent GPU, but no need for anything close to top end. And the case, well, I was looking at NZXT, since I LOVE the one I have now, the layout is just about perfect, though it is so old that there isn't even a model number on the side/front/back.

I am going to do a couple of theory builds on different websites and post later what they are, in the meantime I am open to suggestions.

So my question is about something that is suitable to use for playback. The 2i2 does a great job as an input source, but falls short with playback. So I am looking at a Schitt Magni 2 and a Schitt Modi 2. I am in uncharted territory though for someone with my audio background. Looking at the Magni, I should be able to use the RCA outputs to send signal to my Klipsch speakers and run the headphones off of the front. So the signal flow would be TOSLink > Modi 2 > RCA > Magni 2 > RCA > Klipsch/HD558s or am I looking at this all wrong or is there a better solution? I don't want to spend the money on something that isn't going to do exactly what I want. Use speakers and headphones with the same device. Thanks and please help.

https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/makeway/makeway-create-intricate-courses-watch-your-marbles-soar

The magnetic parts attach seamlessly to all ferromagnetic materials-like your fridge, a locker or a whiteboard, for example. Simply move the track, connector and trick pieces around for an exciting brand new marble challenge.

Here's my parameters:

1. Enough oomph to run 120/144hz VR games and hopefully handle most new titles for a while

2. Budget - around 2k, but flexible

3. Ideally can run double-duty as our PLEX server so we can decom an old box

4. Not obnoxious in visual or sound (will sit in a living room area)

Here's where I'm at currently for a build to meet this criteria: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/FzK4Nq

I feel pretty good about the CPU, GPU, SSD, and case. Mobo, RAM, and PSU seem like things others here might have feels on. What do y'all think?

I don't need bleeding edge, but maybe the top mid-range card. I've got a freesync monitor but I'm not averse to switching to NVIDIA. I'm really, really tired of Radeon drivers, but if a Radeon card is the best bet, I'm willing to stick with it.

Thanks!