Could anyone please provide a schematic for a db9 cable. I know I can make a db25 and get a converter, but I just want to use the db9. Thanks.
I discovered that my initial G2 value was set to 186. I brought mine down to 120 and that allows for a brightness setting of 50 with contrast at 80 and looks fabulous. Previously whenever I would run the Color Restore function I would get the flashing yellow light indicating that it failed. And then I would have to remove AC input power then re apply power to restore functionality. Now it passes the Color Restore consistently.
I also noticed that prior to running the Color Restore function my brightness was only slightly higher than I wanted but acceptable when set to 0. However after running the Color Restore I had severe raster retrace lines on screen all the time and rediculous brightness that washed out the color. The first Color Restore I tried appeared to have passed But upon returning to the display I found severe raster retrace lines that were spaced about 1 inch apart from top to bottom diagonally across the screen. I have to believe that somehow the Color Restore wrote a bogus value into the E²PROM.
I'm currently in the process of learning the Windas software and figuring out how to set all the default factory values as near to perfection for my monitor as possible.
My monitor was too bright. Tried to do resister fix. First tried 6.8 ohm, too dark. Tried 8.2.. still too dark. Tried 9.1 still too dark. Well, tried to go back to ten ohms, and it is still too dark. I may have leaked solder from the r459-r457.
The monitor looks ok for a split second when I turn the monitor off and right after it clicks off, the screen shows! Is there any way for me to fix this? Or even understand what is wrong. Thanks for reading, please help.
P991 DELL SONY wrote:
Thank you for posting your experience! At a G2 of 120 does the brightness/contrast behave normally? I agree with you that color return doesn't work correctly, another user mentioned that a Sony/Dell monitor of simmiliar use and age never developed over-brightness, while another with the color restore function did. If you do the whitebalance procedure (don't try it without a colorimeter), you can recalibrate color return, it seems to work off of the settings under =color in the .dat. Other than that, It's best to leave color return alone.
P991 DELL SONY wrote:
Electronics confusing you? Buy a prebuilt adapter!
My howto mentions several options for building, and an option for buying an adapter.http://cgi.ebay.ca/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=7595437368&rd=1&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWN%3AIT&rd=1
This is a very cheap prebuilt adapter, one user has said it 'doesn't work', however, I believe it works as it is exactly the chip you need. It's so far the cheapest prebuilt solution at 19$ including shipping. It also uses the DB9 port, so it debunks the myth that you need a DB25.
HOW TO MAKE A ESC CABLE USING A BREADBOARD
Max 232 chip
Serial cable (I used a Db9)
Wires (I cut up a USB header to get the .001 4 pin connector to connect to the monitor. A floppy power cord is equally as good.)
5 1 uf capacitors (ceramic 104M)
Prepare the Serial Cable
There are many ways to connect a serial cable to the breadboard, I found the easiest was to solder wires to the male pins. I found that cutting the cable for the wires was pointless as I couldn’t match the colours up with the pins as I only had a moulded cable.. Another way is to just stick the wires into a the female connector i(if you have a female to female cord) or stick them into the serial port of the computer.
To connect the serial cable to the breadboard you will be using pins 2 (tx), 3 (rx) 5 (grd). (if you are using a db25 cable then pin 2=rx 3=tx and 7=grd ) But before you do this you must close the circuit by connecting pins 4 (dtr) 6 (dsr) 8 (cts) together, (db25 pins 20, 6, 5). I managed to run some solder over each pin. Or use a female to female cord and just stick wires into each.
FUSE PINS 4 6 8
ECS (TTL) to Breadboard
For this I cut up a USB header (cost 5 dollars) for the connection to the monitor. Or you can use a spare Floppy drive power cord, or stick the wires into the monitor with blue tack.
CONNECTING THE CIRCUIT
You can use the numbers on the breadboard to help you to connect the circuit
Insert the max 232 chip into the top of the board with the small dot on the chip (pin 1) in D1 and pin 16 in F1.
Insert The Capacitors.
CAP5 BLUE 1…RED 1 ( FURTHER MOST FIGHT ROW IN THE ELECTRICAL SEGMENT OF THE BOARD)
INSERT THE WIRES (DB9)
SERIAL CABLE BB LOCATION NEXT TO PIN ON CHIP
PIN2 (TX)…….… D7 7=TX =T2OUT
PIN3 (RX)………… D8 8=RX=R2IN
PIN5 (GRD)....... BLUE 4
FROM THE MONITOR ECS, TTL TO BREADBOARD
WIRE BB LOCATION NEXT TO PIN ON CHIP
3=RX G7 9=RX=R2OUT
4=TX G8 10=TX=T2IN
LINK THE CIRCUIT CONNECT THE BRIDGING WIRES TO THE BREADBOARD
WIRE BB LOCATION
That’s it you're all finished…. Secure the serial and the ttl parts with some tape and connect to your computer and monitor.
Was looking for a new monitor and saw a Dell P1110 for $100 on craigslist so I decided to go check it out. Before going to the guy's house I did some research and read on the interweb that these monitors had the tendency to be too bright and washed out. I decided to go buy it anyway. The guy had 9 of them he was selling and of the 4 he tested with me there, all were "washed out." He ended up selling me the monitor for $40 to compensate for the poor picture quality.
I got it home an tinkered around with setting the brightness to zero and the contrast to 100 and it was very much improved but not good enough. I went into my video card settings and tweaked the color around and it is almost perfect...although I have nothing to compare it too right now.
I haven't tried doing the "color return" feature yet because I have read on here that it may disable some control settings? My question is, is the picture quality not as good as it could be by adjusting the video card settings as opposed to trying the "color return" feature or soldering in the new resistor? If I can get this thing humping good with no video card correction I may buy a couple more of these to give to friends and family.
Any opinions are appreciated.
Hello, I bought this Ebay adapter --> http://cgi.ebay.ca/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=7595437368
I am having a bit of a problem getting it to work on my P1110 .
The adapter has
What i wanted to know from people why got their adapters to works is,when you're facing your monitor from the back looking at the service port what are the order of the pins?
My understanding is that from Top going down is
is this order correct?
BroHam I can't really speak from experience concerning your model of monitor since I don't own the Dell P1110. But I do own a Sony CPD-G500 which is based on the Sony G1 platform that I think the P1110 is also based. And I can tell you that you will be amazed at the difference when you correct the G2 drive voltage error. If you're experiencing the over brightness that I was seeing there is no way around reducing the G2 drive voltage. I was seeing 730 Vdc when I started out on this adventure with my G500. I've set myself up with the Hobby Engineering Max232 converter and reprogrammed my G2 setting from 186 down to 120 this put my g2 drive level at 580 Vdc and it is simply incredible the difference in color vibrance. You are right about the Image Restore/Color Restore whatever they name it. My G500 for the record is actually named Image Restore. But in the case of my poor G500 should read more like Image Destroy!! Cause it sure did a number on mine. And once it went out of whack that first and only successful time I tried it, There was no recovery from it. At least for me. I must have tried it a hundred times after it seemed to pass the re-calibration and it simply would go into this flashing amber light like I just switched off the computer. Then I would have to remove power for a minute or so to get a picture back. If you hit the local electronics house in your area(Not Radio Quack) a real professional house you'll find all the resistors you need to do a quick fix. I did the simpler Parallel resistor fix on mine to keep using it until I found out about the Windas + Max232 converter solution. If you can wait for the Hobby Engineering delivery I would highly recommend going this route. P991 DELL SONY has put up a superb website with all the details necessary to get you up and running. The plus to this is no soldering skills required. Just match the .100 4 pin Molex up to your monitor is all I had to do. The Hobby Engineering part is mis-wired for the ECS port as you'll see.
But it's super simple to remove the pins and match them up to your ECS port.
I'm really psyched about the feature set Windas presents and am now contemplating a VG-823 purchase to to a full scale professional alignment on my G500 and my wife's G520
Just my cents err sense as it were
TURBO, per my previous post, is there also a way to adjust the RED out when I use the tutorial to darken the screen or is the red tent just a byproduct of the brightness?
Yes you can adjust your color scales. Unfortunately this will involve a white balance calibration to be performed on your monitor. I'm just now researching what is necessary to perform this cal. I believe I'll need a VG-819 and a good colorimeter. So I'm trying to round these things up. This will set me back a bit since the VG-819's seem to go for $200+ and the good colorimeters are about the same amount. So for that much it's difficult to justify when I just bought my wife's CPD-G520 for $90 in perfect cosmetic and fuctional condition.
But I Love the image quality my CPD-G500 has had over the past 5 years so it's worth it to me. I've also discovered that reducing the G2 drive level isn't the cure for the over brightness problem. It certainly reduces the brightness but it also has thrown my color scale completely out of whack now. When I reduce the brightness everything becomes blue now and when I increase brightness everything appears yellow. So I'm sure I'll have to do a white balance calibration to restore the color to brightness scale. Fortunately at normal brightness levels everything looks great at the moment. But I'm going to try and complete a white balance calibration to restore color accuracy across the brightness adjustment range.
i bought Sony E530 few weeks ago and i have noticed that both sides(left and right) are little bit lighter and fuzzyer. Middle of the screen picture is perfect. I would like to know that can i fix this problem with WinDas or is the tube going bad?
I have adjusted the convergence, but picture is only little bit better.
Monitor is manufactured in year 2002 and as far as in know it has been only in home use. Can i check the using hours somewhere in the menus?
I am now building the cable and will test some of the settings...