EE nerds: Use your brain to help Icrontic
One of the most remarkable things about Icrontic is that it has an outstanding community filled with subject matter experts: Linux, Windows, Mac OS, smartphones, graphic design, programming and--most relevant to today's post--electrical engineering.
You see, Icrontic is looking to get back into the game of power supply reviews. But in this day and age, it is not enough to throw the unit in a system, hook up a multimeter, and elaborately declare "YEP, IT WORKS."
Today's readers demand a whole lot more. They want to know if the power lives up to its label at full load and in high-temp conditions. They want to know about ripple, jitter, power efficiency, transients, etc. etc. Anything less makes for an embarrassing review that our peers (not to mention knowledgeable readers) will look down on, and that's not something we're interested in.
In order to obtain this data, many sites larger than us have opted for a SunMoon SM-268 unit, which connects directly to a power supply and can increase the voltage on the rails in 0.5v increments up to the PSU's maximum. This unit also costs $3000-5000. We cannot afford that.
It is my understanding, EE nerds of Icrontic, that it is possible to build a similar device using modular banks of wire-round resistors that can be added or removed to simulate a load. It is also my understanding that such a device can be built for a fraction of the price of a SunMoon unit.
So, my friends, I am calling on you to help Icrontic: Can you design, build, or simplify what is required to make a homebrew unit that can simulate loads? It needs to be capable of pushing power supplies like this to the limit.
I also need a crash course in using the damn thing, because I do not have much experience with electronics.
I know this is a tall order, but we've avoided power supplies for a long time because we do not have the gear to give you the reviews that you deserve. Help us get back in that game, and give you good content.
Thank you.
You see, Icrontic is looking to get back into the game of power supply reviews. But in this day and age, it is not enough to throw the unit in a system, hook up a multimeter, and elaborately declare "YEP, IT WORKS."
Today's readers demand a whole lot more. They want to know if the power lives up to its label at full load and in high-temp conditions. They want to know about ripple, jitter, power efficiency, transients, etc. etc. Anything less makes for an embarrassing review that our peers (not to mention knowledgeable readers) will look down on, and that's not something we're interested in.
In order to obtain this data, many sites larger than us have opted for a SunMoon SM-268 unit, which connects directly to a power supply and can increase the voltage on the rails in 0.5v increments up to the PSU's maximum. This unit also costs $3000-5000. We cannot afford that.
It is my understanding, EE nerds of Icrontic, that it is possible to build a similar device using modular banks of wire-round resistors that can be added or removed to simulate a load. It is also my understanding that such a device can be built for a fraction of the price of a SunMoon unit.
So, my friends, I am calling on you to help Icrontic: Can you design, build, or simplify what is required to make a homebrew unit that can simulate loads? It needs to be capable of pushing power supplies like this to the limit.
I also need a crash course in using the damn thing, because I do not have much experience with electronics.
I know this is a tall order, but we've avoided power supplies for a long time because we do not have the gear to give you the reviews that you deserve. Help us get back in that game, and give you good content.
Thank you.

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Comments
The only reference to a home built SM is a toaster loader. Gonna need a few adapters so that you can break out all the 12v, 5v, and 3.3v lines into a single cable that runs back to the set-up and have a big solder point where you can use a multimeter easily on it. I assume you want some decent accuracy and logging functions, some thing to start with.
Anyway, putting together a crude load tester like that is pretty simple... you just won't have the fine adjustability of an electronically controlled load tester (which probably also wouldn't be that hard to design). With either loading unit, you'll still need a few things to pull off a PSU review: good multimeters, an oscilloscope, and a basic understanding of circuit theory so that you can comment on the design and component choice of whatever PSU you're reviewing.
I have the EE design and soldering skills to build whatever we want, but probably not the design skills to know exactly what it is we want.
EDIT: it would probably be cheaper for you to roll your own. I made mine using a 2x4 and some nichrome wire. Clamp the wire at two ends and put it under a lot of tension, then clip high-current alligator clips to the wire. Put the system ground in the middle of the wire (or wherever) and slide the other clip along the wire until you get the desired resistance for the load you're planning to test. Use multiple wires for multiple simultaneous loads. A guitar pegbox mechanism would make a good tensioner.
P = V^2 / R
Measure voltage with a good multimeter, transient and ripple with an oscilloscope set for AC mode. Objects of interest are going to be in the Hz - kHz range so you don't need to shell out for a really expensive oscilloscope. One of the USB dongles should be fine. Resistance of the wire increases with load, so you may want to get an inductive ammeter to measure current and then slide the clip until you get the desired power if you need more precision:
P = V * I
-drasnor
You are SUCH a badass, sir.
-drasnor
NASA better get in line
-drasnor
Like wood?
-drasnor
This one was dirt cheap to make since I didn't go any further than my parts box, but if I were going to do it again here is what I'd do differently:
* Use a bigger board so I can have more loads for more rails.
* Get a real tensioning mechanism so I don't need three hands, a wrench, and a ratchet to tension the wire.
* Use longer pegs to get some more clearance between the wire and backing.
* Use battery clamps to attach to the wire so I can vary the load for a given rail.
* Use thinner wire so the load can be a bit shorter. This was built with 16 ga nichrome, use 18 ga.
* Use a different PSU connector.
* Use a bigger, higher current switch or relay.
Bear in mind this is just a load; you still need actual instrumentation to measure things.
-drasnor
http://www.hardwareheaven.com/reviews.php?reviewid=907&pageid=4
I'm as interested in seeing how to build this thing than seeing any PSU results.
To build it, you really don't need much more than Ohm's Law and an understanding of series/parallel resistance... this site could probably be of some help: http://www.ifigure.com/engineer/electric/electric.htm
You ever tried to find a burned out bulb on an old string of christmas lights?
It would work, but probably be a bit of a PITA to deal with (not to mention that you're stuck with whatever resistance value the bulbs happen to have, rather than choosing from a wide variety of commercial resistors or winding your own).
The resistor values are set up so that the number of amps that flow through each parallel branch increase by powers of 2. This allows you to use binary to count up the total number of amps in increments of 1A. Want 6A? Use the 4+2 branches. Want 15A? Use the 8+4+2+1 branches. The downside is this can get kind of annoying to do manually, so I designed the resistor branches not to exceed 4A, so 5A relays could be switched with a microcontroller.
Each individual branch will be made up of multiple 12 Ohm resistors, allowing lower power resistors to be used (cheaper, no need for a heatsink...a fan blowing over them would be a good idea, though. To make the 2A branch, 2 12 Ohm resistors will be in parallel. To make the 3A branch, 3 12 Ohm resistors will be in parallel. If someone is willing to make or point me to heatsinks that would work with the higher power/single resistors that would work as well.
The downside is that this may take up a lot of space once you need to test 6 12V rails and several 5V rails.
shwaip: your higher-order resistors are going to be rated for some obscene power. Heat sinks and active cooling are required because even though you may only be radiating 12-15W per resistor, your array is still radiating the full rating as heat and that heat needs to go somewhere.
-drasnor