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rice burner said:Eljay and others with the P992, I have scoped out a possible resistance mod for you. Here are the diagrams. Judge for yourselves if its worthwhile. By the way, I found a G500 service manual for the P1110 at:- http://www.theusermanualsite.com Registration is free of charge. Compare and contrast the attached marked-up circuit diagrams. It appears the modified resistances must be lower than standard value to reduce brightness. Please refer to other threads in this forum for information, Thanks. P1110 Modification[ATTACH]25263[/ATTACH] P992 Modification[ATTACH]25264[/ATTACH]
LAGRUNAUER said:After the interface is connected to the monitor and the COM port, start WinDAS, backup the existing DAT file, and then load the corrected DAT file. Once the corrected DAT file is loaded, go to "Adjustments", then click on "Procedure", and then on "Final setting"; and once WinDAS confirms the input signal of 1600x1200, click OK, then as soon as the program ask you "Do you set the final values"?, then click OK, then exit WinDAS.Without touching none of the OSD buttons, power down the monitor, and turn it off, then disconnet the interface. Wait for 3-5 minutes, then turn the unit back on, and the OSD should be unlocked.The issue is I was not telling WinDAS to save the final setting values into the DAT file and to the EEPROM BEFORE exiting WinDAS, and that was the reason why the OSD locked up.[EMAIL="firstname.lastname@example.org"][/EMAIL]
Swap_File said:Update: I got sick of trying to pick the exact resistor I needed, so I just put a 22M resistor back in and hooked my P992 up to my laptop and used WinDAS. It worked great. I don't know why other people were having problems with the P992 and WinDAS.
Swap_File said:Update: I got sick of trying to pick the exact resistor I needed, so I just put a 22M resistor back in and hooked my P992 up to my laptop and used WinDAS. It worked great. I don't know why other people were having problems with the P992 and WinDAS. Edit: I did need to do this to unlock the onscreen controls:
tdlofcc said:I got a Dell P1110 very cheaply ... should've know something would be amiss ... so I started to google my problem and found this site.Before I do the resistor mod, I would like to know if it will solve other problems too. It might be in this huuuuge thread somewhere, but I got to page 10 and found no mention of it.So here goes.Aside from the fact that it's way to bright, it also seems like the image on the monitor is a little off to the left. By about 1/2cm ... And the left upper corner looks out of focus.Would changing the resistor help me at all ?Or am I better off getting another monitor ?Thanks in advance.
allouh said:resistors only solve brightness issue, the other problems you mention can be adjusted through the monitor menu.if all the adjustments are at their extreme values try using color return which restore the monitor setting to the default factory.(you can find about it here).
eljay said:--------------------------Hi, I've just looked inside my P992 now. And looked at all the options.......... (1)I found RV901 (full of sealer). I carefully dug it out and twiddled, but this adjustment did not affect the brightness issue, only picture size as far as I could see. So anybody else thinking of this needn't bother. (2)So I cut the shielding to do the mod,(as photos just above) but selecting the right resistor seems problematic....and why do I have to have 2 in series?? (Can't I buy an 18M?)I presume 22M means 22MegOhms? (3)So, I've decide to try the Windas route, and I've downloaded the software.But I need intructions as to:- (a)Build the exact lead I need for a Dell P992(I find all the terminology perplexing) OR (b)Buy the exact lead I need (in UK) at a reasonable price? AND (c)How do I find the COM port in my PC (Dell Dimension 4100)? Thanks to you all for this geat thread eljay
Paramedic said:Nussi, See this link: http://techref.massmind.org/techref/io/serial/rlc2.htmI assume you are located in Deutschland, since your converter's link referenced a German web site. Thus, you may pay extra for overseas shipping, but it would be a small charge. However, you might be able to find a similar adapter in your area.The link I gave you shows the adapter that allowed me to fix my monitor. I attached some long wires to it, as extensions, that allowed me to connect more easily inside the monitor. I adapted a 4-pin connector from an electronics store to fit the monitor port. Specifically, I tried connecting the TX and RX in normal configuration using my extension wires, as well as reversing the wires, and I did not burn anything out. So, you may have crossed something else to burn out the adapter. At this point, I would not worry about your monitor, since it still works. I do agree that a different adapter be used to eliminate any further difficulties or risk to your monitor.
Brute44 said:Paramedic I too bought the RLC-2 adapter and for the life of me can't get it to communicate with my Dell P1110. I keep getting the can't communicate with the monitor problem. Almost like I have no cable even attached. You had to convert yours to make it work right? I bought this cable under the assumption that no additional swapping of wires was necessary. How did you eventually get it to work? You say that you added an extension cable with a 4 pin connector. Did you have to swap any wires? Another problem I'm having is the ability to run as Administrator on an XP Home OEM Compaq Presario. When I try to run as admin after right clicking Windas, I get a logon error, something to do with account restriction. Can ANYBODY tell me how to get run-as admin working.The strange thing is that I eventually connected another PC to this monitor running XP Pro and of course I added a Admin password and was able to run-as admin, but was not able to connect to this monitor. I was able to connect to my modem an com3 and got the Syntax error message. I'm beginning to believe that this cable could be bad or the chip is bad.ANY Help would be greatly appreciated.
titus8413 said:My P991 has the brightness issue, and I long ago purchased a DAS cable, however I no longer have a copy of the WinDAS software.As stated by mrfixit, the Windas link in the FAQ is no longer valid. The .RAR file posted, as well as the FTP mirroring site he mentions also appear to have a damaged WinDAS installation file. Does anyone have a valid mirror available?
dysv said:This link no longer works:http://www.geocities.com/gregua/windas/ Is that information still available somewhere else?
James Newton said:Hi, Iâ€™d like to get some feedback on connector differences between different monitors. I make the RLC cable and the pinout I show there worked fine for my Sony monitor, and has worked for many others, but the diagram at http://www.myblog.bloggybloggy.com/hacking-monitor-to-fix-too-bright-screens-26-09-2007/ shows â€œRXâ€ and â€œTXâ€ reversed and some of the comments above make me worry that different monitors may have those lines in a different order.Part of the problem is that RX and TX only make sense if you include the direction. E.g. data being sent from the monitor is being RXâ€™d by the PC but is being TXâ€™d from the monitor, so either label could be used and still not tell us the direction of flow.My monitor talks if I send data to it from the PC on pin 4 (farthest from ground) and look for data back from the Monitor on pin 3. The diagram on your page shows data going from the monitor on pin 4 into the MAX232 (and so on to the PC) and out of the MAX232 and into the monitor on pin 3. At first glance, I would say that there must be a difference between the Dell P1110 monitor bloggybloggy was fixing and others, but then I notice that in the paragraph above the diagram, he also saidâ€œYou might need to switch around between the TX and RXâ€¦â€ which makes me wonder if that is what he had to do to get it working?It would be very good to get some more experience from people telling us which direction of data flow worked for them while NOT using terms like RX and TX which are so easy to confuse. On the RLC cables, we always use Yellow for data going from the monitor to the PC and Red for data going from the PC to the monitor. The cable comes with yellow on pin 3 (monitor to PC) and red on pin 4 (PC to monitor) because that seems to work for most of our customers, if anyone finds that the needed to reverse those two pins, PLEASE let me know and include the model of the monitor you were using? Thanks!
James Newton said:PLEASE let me know and include the model of the monitor you were using?
pbg157 said:When I try to "Save Data to File", I get an error box reading "ECS syntax Error NG! NG! NG!". Then another "ECS syntax Error". It will then show a "Save as" dialog box, and it will fill the 5k .dat file with "ERR" data, with yet more "ECS syntax error" messages along the way.- Philip
geotopia said:The WinDAS documentation is extremely poor and little things necessary to get up and running are entirely left out or are so poorly implemented in the software that it's hit and miss. Good luck!
DJ_Izumi said:I posted here a year and a half about a Dell P1110 that went 'bezerk' with it's OSD. I found a replacement and by the time it had arrived the first one fixed itself. I happily sat behind dual Dell P1110's for a year and a half.Now that same monitor has fritzed out in a some bizarre way. I came back to my computer which had told both monitors to power down as part of the desktops power scheme and only oen came back on. It gave a green LED and even went 'Click' with the electrical switching that CRTs do but the screen was blank. Not just rendering 'black' but 'off' blank. I know the difference between a screen drawing black and one that's off. However otherwise this monitor seems to work fine. It stays with a green LED when it has signal, it goes to standby when it loses signal. I can apparently even 'blindly' control it through the OSD buttons even! It degauses on power on, and you hear it go 'click' twice soon after. It's like the cathode ray tube itself just isn't turning on but otherwise it's fine. Ideas or should I just seek out another replacement?
Alidor said:Awesome monitor. Though I've had to lower the G2 voltage twice.I have one that has started to do the same thing. It won't turn on when it is 'cold'. I have to run a blow dryer into the lower right side for about 30 seconds before it'll turn on. If I *leave* it on, it's fine. I can even turn it off for a few minutes at a time without problems. But if it cools down too much, it behaves exactly as you describe - the power light goes green then turns to orange flashing standby. I hear there's a warmup circuit in these things. Maybe it's getting tired... Anyway, good luck if you try the blow dryer.
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