Good starting point for liquid cooling
I'm pretty familiar with air cooling, but water cooling kits are a bit of a mystery. My experience so far is with the AMD FX water cooling kit (based on an Asetek design and similar to an H60), but it's tremendously noisy when things heat up and it's nowhere near as effective as a Noctua NH-D14.
I'd like to start with CPU cooling and possibly branch into GPU cooling as well but that may not be for a while.
Where is a good place to start?
I'd like to start with CPU cooling and possibly branch into GPU cooling as well but that may not be for a while.
Where is a good place to start?
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Here is a link I used where the guy puts together budget, mid and "extreme" recommendations for the various parts involved.
Take this with a grain of salt, as I have only planned, not built a W/C system. I think @Gargoyle had the right kinda questions to determine what sort of system you are building and what parts to use.
Thanks for the links @Tushon. I'll take a look at them.
@shwaip, what kind of performance can I expect from those parts?
GPU block, http://www.swiftech.com/mcw82vgawaterblock.aspx#tab3, gives you a lot of options and cheaper if you keep it and in general compared to full PCB blocks.
EDIT: Given that it looks like Thermochill is out of the business for a while Black Ice GTX 120.3 http://www.frozencpu.com/products/5326/ex-rad-109/Black_Ice_GTX_Xtreme_360_Radiator_-_Black.html?tl=g30c95s161
Two examples:
Danger Den (more custom options)
FrozenCPU ( ~$50-60 variety) (I searched for 1155 and got mostly good results. you may limit it to 1156 and see which of them have 1155 fittings available.
GPU blocks that are made to fit for your specific part are going to run $100-120, vs @_k_'s example of a generic one.
Examples:
DangerDen (there are two possible for the 6950, but the more expensive one should work on either)
FrozenCPU (more variety, same price range)
EDIT: You will get better performance from the "custom" blocks made for a particular GPU, but make sure to check out that it works with the exact GPU you have as the DD block works with some but not others, as one example)
Right now I'm thinking the AMD FX platform may be the best candidate for the cooling system. It'll be able to handle both GPUs at dual x16. Sadly the P67 chipset can't give it more than dual x8
Swiftech Apogee HD High Performance Water Block
Phobya Dual 5.25" bay resovoir
Koolance Triple 140mm Copper radiator
Shwaip's Eheim pump (if it's still available)
Also looking for coolant recommendations.
This is all going in the NZXT Switch 810 case.
Good? Bad?
Also, I'm trying to figure out what size tubing and fittings are needed...I've looked at the specs for the CPU block, and I'm a bit lost as to just what sizes are best.
I've decided to hold off on GPU cooling for now, but this should leave enough room for expansion, right?
I've always used Tygon 7/16. You can fit it on the 1/2" barbs yet it takes up less space in the case than 1/2" tubing.
http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/ty7id11odlat.html
On this latest hose change I just picked up a 20' prepackaged/precut section of 1/2" OD tinted hose at Petsmart for under $20. It was an excellent value which you can usually find at any pet store or home garden supply.
Also, what fluid will you use?
The flex tubing will simply make a radius which will smooth the transition, thus smoothing the restriction/flow. However, if the tubing is too thick the transition will be too slight and the bend radius will increase and you probably won't be able to close the side of the case, or you'll have too much pressure on parts to force the bend.
Chances are if you read the reviews before making the purchase you will have a hint at the success and failures of others using the said products. I suppose there is a happy medium someplace.
On another note, tinted or solid colored tubing will retard algae growth as opposed to clear. I like tinted best because it allows me to inspect for air bubbles, which is another factor to consider. Usually this is what is sold for outdoor fountains and such for that particular reason.
The Apogee HD would be my first choice if I were going to build a mixed serial + parallel loop. This is where this block really excels and is innovative. However, given the flexibility of the case you you've selected, a single loop for the cpu and a seperate loop for the gpu at a later date could provide the best performance results overall. This way you are not dumping heat from one component to another before removing it from the box.
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10473/ex-tub-633/Tygon_R-3603_716_ID_58_OD_-_Laboratory_Tubing.html
3/4" OD is really big and will eat up your case space quick. As well, the 5/8 OD tubing there will work great while saving a little space.
It looks like I'll need to get a pump. I was thinking about dropping the Phobya dual bay reservoir and going with a pump/reservoir combo.
I'm looking at these as possibilities:
Koolance RP-1005BK comes with Koolance PMP-400 pump $237.99 plus fittings
XSPC Dual 5.25" bay comes with Alphacool VPP655 $159.95 plus fittings
EK D5 X-Res Top 140 Pump Top comes with Alphacool VPP655 $172.99 plus fittings
Is there a benefit to going with a dual bay reservoir over a single bay? Would the extra coolant capacity be a benefit?
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/14199/ex-res-308/FrozenQ_Liquid_Fusion_Dual_Bay_Reservoir_w_Swiftech_MCP655_Series_Pump_Installed.html?tl=g30c107s152#blank
Also use code xtreme at checkout and get 5.1% off of your order.
http://www.dangerden.com/store/dd12v-d5_pump-fixed-speed-by-laing.html
I'm sure you can find the same pump under different names. Laing is very hard to beat IMO.
In a closed loop you should have little to no evaporation, therefore there should be little to no need for a reservoir. If you do use a reservoir however, absolutely do not route your loop into it as this will restrict the flow. Rather, you should "T" off to the reservoir. This way the extra fluid will only contribute to the loop as needed.
At any rate, the line that you use to tee off to the reservoir should suffice enough for a reservoir itself and will replenish fluid as needed just the same. On the end of the reservoir hose you can cap it easily with a fillport like this. It will make filling and draining a breeze also.
http://www.dangerden.com/store/delrin-fillport.html
Here is an older video that shows excellent technique in assembling a watercooling setup. Notice how the fill tube is off of a "T" fitting and thus is not in the flow loop. This is essential for good performance.
http://www.dangerden.com/Videos/system-install-part-2.html
Filling the loop with coolant and working out the bubbles. I don't use this technique, I just flip the case and let the bubbles rise to the "T" and out of the fillport, but this video is pretty helpful in showing how to remove bubbles. Just jump your PSU so that you don't actually put power to any other components except for the pump.
http://www.dangerden.com/Videos/fill-a-system-with-coolant.html
Oh yeah, don't mix metals in the loop, it will cause corrosion quickly.
Lots of pumps use delrin and similar plastics. If you have all like metals in the loop you won't have to worry about galvanic corrosion, at least not for a long time. Most people go with copper because most radiators are constructed of copper.
"Dissimilar metal corrosion is well known to most designers, specifiers and fabricators, but often the only rule in force is 'don't mix metals'." Excerpt http://www.corrosionist.com/dissimilar_metal_corrosion.htm
In a watercooling system your enemies are galvanic corrosion, air bubbles (especially the ones that are unseen in the block and rad), and algae. Know your enemies and how to avoid them.