CB's fresh start
As mentioned in my 'instability issues' thread. I think it's time for a fresh PC. My current PC has some parts that are nearly 15 years old (even older if I count the case and fans.
The newest part is only a few years old. The graphics card, a GeForce GTX 1060, I'm tempted to reuse in a new build but... Then I wouldn't be getting a fresh start. I've been Ship of Theseus-ing this PC since like 1992. It's time to make a completely new PC. puts down foot dramatically
So...I don't really know how to do that. I don't follow along with the hardware conversations anymore. My interests moved on from the ins and outs of PC hardware market years ago, and all the model numbers and compatibility advice on-the-wibblies makes my head spin. I don't know. Does this mean I'm an old now? Anyway, I'm digressing here. I need advice for purchasing a new PC.
Here's what I need, simply:
- Plays modern PC games.
- Runs two monitors (I think all graphics cards do this now, but just to be sure.)
- Has a lot of USB ports for all my studio and gaming peripherals. (seriously, I'm using all 10 on my current PC, and had to buy a powered hub to handle more.) [insert Isiea USB hub image here.]
- Runs quiet (will be in my studio. I have solutions for filtering out the PC noises from my recordings, but quieter is still better)
- much RAMs and HDs for A/V editing
- Deliverable to my flat in Munich
- budget 2k€-2.5k€
- I do not require flashy or colorful pieces. It can be a plain beige box for all I care (tho, I have a feeling that's not even an option anymore).
It's okay with me if I don't have to LEGO the system together after it arrives. In fact, I may be willing to pay a small premium to not be required to do this. If it costs about the same to have the system arrive ready to use, I'm good with that.
I think that's all that you need to know before performing this valuable, yet somehow free, service for me.
Thank you in advance for any and all assistance in this heavy endeavor.
Comments
It ain't free. Pay me and I'll help.
I recommend waiting like a week until B550 is released.
(It wasn't Eggroll it was Isiea)
My bad.
There are a lot of pre-builts on zonDE, and the ones in the 1300-2200€ range all look about the same to me. Are you just paying for cool cases at that point? Is my budget too high?
What's this?
I would like to get the new PC very soon because right now it's hard to get anything done, but also, Germany is doing a VAT rebate thing in a few weeks to kickstart the retail sector, so it's not too bad if I have to wait til then.
B550 is the new AMD chipset that complements 3rd gen Ryzen. Comes out on the 16th.
That would pair with the Ryzen 9, then?
Yes, and at this point, waiting for it is the right move because otherwise you'll be buying in to the very tail end of the last-gen of motherboards.
here ya go CB https://de.pcpartpicker.com/list/dQmCQq
For reference, here is also the build that Sono recommended on Discord: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/F2C8cq
yea I fixed Sono's build because that motherboard is currently way overpriced and very limited stock. I replaced it with a comparable motherboard in stock
also Sono had a 500w power supply for $240, again overpriced. I bumped you to a 750w for less
So I gave you a better CPU with more cores, since you like to use a PC for 15 years lol
Mine has the USB-C case for your USB addiction and put more m.2 drives on the list. One for the OS and the 2TB for your most used programs/games
I've had nothing but problems with ADATA M2 SSDs on x570 chipset. Maybe better now, but it really put a bad taste in my mouth for the brand.
Which do you recommend, then?
If you were in the US, I would now say Western Digital or Crucial.
Contrasting viewpoint: I wouldn't buy any other SSD but the Adata XPG 8200 Pro right now. You just can't get better performance for your money.
The Sabrent Rocket M.2 NVMe drives have gotten a lot of good comments.
Personally mine are Intel (on older boards that don't need the speed) or Samsung 970 Pro.
If you really want PCI 4.0 on the M.2 then you are dealing with a limited club, and the Sabrent is in it.
I would go with 4x on the memory, a little less dense and a little cooler.
The other CPU option is the R7-3800, fewer cores but higher speed (and a little less money).
And a video card option (much deepening on which apps/games you run) would be AMD Radeon RX 5700 XT.
Just some thoughts.
I build computers regularly, usually a couple a month. I pop a Crucial P1 in all of them. My reasoning is this. Other drives I've had to RMA, the Crucial P1 I've never had fail. It's cheap, it's fast enough, I just use them. I even use it in my own build. To realize the speed benefit of the cutting edge NVME drives you have to be doing some pretty specialized workloads and neither me or my customers are. Sure, it's going to add a little performance bottleneck vs. the Adata drive, but I'm into cheap and reliable when I can get it. Keep in mind it's QLC so that's assuming your SSD is mostly for static storage and you are not doing a ton of writes on it.
Itch to build a new computer... rising...
You HAVE to. You and I have been in lockstep with our PCs for years; can't let me pass you!
I ended up buying Inland, Microcenters branded drives. Was skeptical but they've ended up being great.
Can't get Inland over here, unfortunately, though I also have had good history with that brand. :/
Do I actually need a new copy of Windows 10? Won't my license transfer?
If your copy was OEM, it will not transfer. If it was retail, it will be tied to your microsoft account, and when you log in to your MS account on your new PC the license will just transfer seamlessly
I don't remember anymore. I think it was an upgrade from a previous Windows version? Is there somewhere in Windows I can go to see if my license will transfer?
Check the Activation tab in Update & Security in the Control Panel. Should say under what your current system is activated and if it was because it was linked to your account.
-Edit-
If it's linked to your account, you'll need your original CD key to activate it on a new system. I went through that when I upgraded but I had managed to save my Windows 7 key in Dropbox and forgot about it.
I don't see Update and Security in my Control Panel. :/
lulz. I was in control panel, not settings.
I see it now.
So, this means I don't need a new copy?
You still need the original cd key from before you upgraded to Windows 10. Without it, MS support can't do anything.