CD Drive wont work HELP
ok,here we go. my dad is having problems with his cdrom and zip drive not working. they are both plugged into the same cable. we replaced the cable with brand new ones and it didnt do anything. the computer is a HP Pavilion with windows 98 os. it happened to him before and he just pulled out the cable and put the same one back in and then everything was fine. he went on the internet and downloaded new drivers for both of them and it didnt work. he doesnt want to replace it if he doesnt have to. if you have any questions just ask. i would appreciate any help that you can give me. thanx
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Check type of cable stuck in also, I have seen 40 conductors work with ZIPS and some ZIP drives will misbehave with an 80 conductor cable like you use on a fast and modern HD.
See if one of them suddenly works after jumpers are fixed, and see if then you can get otehr working with a new cable from computer store. The zip uses conductorsd for strange things, and is typically slower than modern CD-ROMs as far as bus rates.
Also, wild guess, did cable get connected wrong to drives?? If so and the ZIP was in SLAVE and the Cd-ROM in Cable Select (CS jumper) then they would both be answering slave conceivably and at that point might be that BIOS will not find both, Windows drivers will get confused, and both vanish or sometimes work. A jumper for drive position falling off entirely, or not actually jumpering but sitting between two pin pairs (that has been managed by some folks, me also when learning) will definitely make for a mess with those two kinds of removables on any one IDE cable.
I have a rule-- if one IDE device on a cable has to be jumpered CS, both get jumpered CS. For ZIP and CD-ROM sharing a cable, my rule is to force them to use the IDs that cause both to work-- generally the ZIP ends up as slave, the CD-ROM or CD-RW as master. IF opposite, you frequently get the whole channel running at the speed the ZIP drive can handle. Then the CD-ROM drive works but very slowly (um, 8-16X CD-ROM reading, anyone???).
John D-- wishing you the very best of luck with that one.
Did anything else change right before the drives stopped working?
The drives are connected to an IDE controller on the Motherboard. Look in Device Manager and see if there are any problems indicated in the IDE Controllers section.
You might also check in your bios and make sure that both IDE controllers are enabled.
Do you have a good Anti-Virus program? Is it up to date? The reason I ask is that some viruses can doof up your IDE stuff.
-bikerboy
Very welcome, happy it helped.
John D.
Glad you got it, bikerboy.
The jumper setting have not changed i have not played about in windows with the cd drivers i have not played with the actual CD-ROM drive externally.
Bios recognises the cd rom drives.
There is a yellow exclamation mark in the device manager with this warning.
Device Manager Error Code 10
The device failed to start (it might be missing or is not working properly).
But the weird thing is they where working before and now they have just died
If it worked fine before and driver updates didn't help then it sounds like sometihng is starting to flake out on you. Try just installing one of the other and see that they work fine seperately.
You could try moving the Zip drive to slave off the same IDE as the hard drive and then have the CDROM on an IDE by its self...
"g"
"g"
I have a sneaky feeling it might be deamon tools having a mad one on me.
I dont reckon they have died because both at the same time don't seem right
Sorry just thought i would mention.
I don't have a Zip drive i just posted in this topic because it seemed to be along the same lines.
Some more info about how my CD drives are set up. They are seperate from the hardrive's IDE channel and are both on there own seperate IDE channel.
I hope this helps.
Ok, give me an idea how old the CD-ROM that is not working is.... There are three ways to fubar a CD-ROM drive and get that with none of the issues thta you have said do not exist being not there:
1. Older CD-ROM drives get dirty and dusty, every time a CD that has fingerprints or dust on them is put in, the dust can be spun off the CD media into the drive. Eventually, the drive laser lense head gets coated with a thin layer of gunk and dust. THEN the drive is kinda like a nearsighted person who took his glasses off, went to bed, and come morning has to hunt them, or someone with sweaty lenses or dust or other things on glasses lenses-- cannot read well. Maxell makes CD drive Laser Lense cleaning CDs. Run the thing on it for about a minute, see if it now reads data better. If still a bit flaky, run it again, up to three or four times.
2. CD Burners ditto, but in this case both plastic vapors as the plastic is heated, and the tiny dust particles of plastic that result during burning soemtimes, can end up on the laser lense. Same fix, run a CD LAser Lense cleaning CD on the drive.
3. Third is a cable that has been folded sharply or pushed too hard out of the way, or accidentally pulled just a bit out of the way out of connectors, any connector on cable can cause flakes of this kind. Sometimes, when a cable is pushed out of the way, it gets damaged and needs to be replaced. IF the wires in cable that BIOS uses are good, but some are nto good, drive will not transfer data right, but will be seen as a device. Then you get a Code 10 also.
Probably, with a code 10, device is unreliable for reading and\or writing data as far as Windows is concerned. Cable damage, the big wide or thick round IDE DATA cable, is one common thing, but most often the dang DC laser lense head needs cleaning. Taking drive apart is not a good option, too easy to get head out of alignment and then the CD drive is worthless.
Note, if drive were disconnected for two or three warm boots, drive driver would be autodisabled by Windows. a Code 22 means the driver install failed or drive is not connected right, but a 10 is data flow unrelaibility for a device usually.
John D.-- who has to clean out his burner drives and CD-ROM drives once every 6-9 months, they get lots of use. I go through 2-300 CD-R blanks a year, most years.