Why can nothing be easy??

mr-maltmr-malt Iowa
edited May 2004 in Hardware
So...I've got my new computer together and running, thought I'd take a shot at some overclocking, as that's why I chose the components I did.
This is my first serious attempt (last was with a P3 Coppermine, just changing the FSB for some meager increases).

I've read quite throughly on the topic, but have run into something I wasn't really expecting.
I'm getting an error of sorts on bootup into windows (before windows).

states: (something like the following)
<windows root>\system32\ntoskrnl.exe has become corrupted or is missing, please replace and press any key to restart.

I get this only when attempting to overclock.....trying for 200FSB
When I restart and go back to defaults, it boots into windows without problem.
I did replace the file with a copy from another machine....still no go.

System specs:
Albatron KX18D ProII with latest bios
AMD 2500 Barton, AQXEA stepping (locked)
Thermalright SLK900A w/ Panaflo 92mm "M" fan
Mushkin PC3200 Black Level II 2x256mb
Radeon 9500 Pro
Hitachi 7K250 80GB Sata


Is this familiar to anyone? TIA

Comments

  • primesuspectprimesuspect Beepin n' Boopin Detroit, MI Icrontian
    edited April 2004
    What are your temps like?
  • mr-maltmr-malt Iowa
    edited April 2004
    at default speeds they were ~35c

    is that error just a sign of corruption from a bad overclock?
  • RWBRWB Icrontian
    edited April 2004
    But when it is stock speed it works fine???

    If so, it's just that yourt AGP/PCI divider may not be locked or is unlocked and needs to be adjusted.

    That's my assumption.
  • edited April 2004
    I looked up your board and see that it is an nforce2 board with the IGP, which I haven't messed with. Since you are using a separate vid card, I would assume it should work about like a non-integrated video nf2 board though, with pci and agp locks.

    Have you tried upping the vcore and vdimm any yet when trying to overclock? I have a friend who recently bought a 2500 barton and it's the worst overclocking pos proc I've seen in a long time. He's about to order a mobile 2600 XP because they overclock like crazy and are multi unlocked also. The corruption message you see is fairly common when a proc isn't stable at it's overclocked speed, so you will have to try to ease the vcore higher to see if it will stabilize it. You have a great heatsink for your rig, but you might have to get a higher cfm fan if your temps start going up drastically due to the increased vcore. A good choice for the fan is the Thermaltake SmartFan 2, which has a potentiometer so that you can control the fan speed to the level of noise you can tolerate. Or, you can get one of the barton mobile XP's (2400m, 2500m or 2600m) because they are hand picked and will run at a lower default voltage. I have 3 of them and all 3 will do better than 2300 MHz easily.
  • mr-maltmr-malt Iowa
    edited April 2004
    Just tried upping vcore....went to 1.725 and got into windows. Computer restarted after about 5 minutes (nothing strenuous being done).
    So it looks like my attempts to get a cpu with the AQXEA stepping may have been a bit unnecessary.

    I know I've read it before, but what's my max safe voltage on air cooling? Temps in bios (without having booted into windows) were around 37C. Not much of an increase. I have the ram figured out, though vdimm shouldn't need to change as I'm not overclocking the ram til I go past 200FSB.

    Also, I do have a setting for AGP frequency in my bios, options are "auto" (default), and 66-100mhz selectable by mhz. Should I set to 66mhz, or wait to do that until (if) I get past 200FSB?
    I'm understanding that at this point,getting to be stable at 200FSB only requires changes related to cpu, and not other settings, as they are all good for 200FSB.
  • edited April 2004
    Looks like you're on the right track with upping the vcore, mr malt. I have no problems running my XP procs at 1.85v on air using SLK heatsinks but I'm running either the SF2 fans or Delta focused flow fans which put out quite a bit more air (and noise) than a Panaflo M1A. Try bumping vcore up to 1.75v and see what happens. If heat is a problem, you still won't hurt the proc but it will get unstable after running a while after it first boots up stable. The SF2 is a great choice for the fan because you can vary the speed and noise to suit your needs.
  • mr-maltmr-malt Iowa
    edited April 2004
    Pushed vcore up to 1.8, still no luck at being prime95 stable. Jumped into bios on that reboot, temp was 50C. Looks a little warm ;).
    SO, before I say my processor is a dud, I guess I'll try to cool it down a bit. A little discouraging though, as I had read only good things about the AQXEA stepping (i.e. not needing insane cooling to hit 200fsb).
    The Panaflo 92mm M1A moves 48cfm, which I felt would be enough, especially considering that I'm trying for the 200FSB that is practically thought of as "stock" for the 2500 Barton (not to mention this stepping). I was hoping I wouldn't run into trouble so soon, figured an SLK900A with 48cfm fan would get me that high at least?

    So...if I'm wanting to see over 200FSB, do I try a higher cfm fan, or just use that money towards getting a mobile barton (considering I haven't yet run stable between 1.650 and 1.8)?

    If the fan route is recommended, what air flow am I looking for? Around 75cfm? \
    Edit: Scoured newegg, looks like the Smart Fan provides the highest flow for sizes below 120mm.
  • MedlockMedlock Miramar, Florida Member
    edited April 2004
    Wow. I'm late.

    I get the same alleged file corruption when I push this 2.8C above 3.23. Above 3.3, and it refuses to post. I think it's just heat. But that's just me. I'm using stock cooling now.
  • mr-maltmr-malt Iowa
    edited April 2004
    Looks like that error is the quick way of saying "your not even close to stable :).

    Anyone know of any simple (small) programs for giving cpu temp in xp? MBM is too "much".
  • edited April 2004
    You might try Speedfan then. I've had decent luck running it also on several mobos, including the Gigabyte GA-6OXET I used to have, which was real picky about monitoring apps.

    Also, you might want to try an 80mm fan instead of the 92mm fan on your heatsink. Several people have noted that the 80mm fans work better on Thermalright heatsinks than a 92mm fan. I guess it's because of the larger footprint of the fan hub combined with the extra overhang on the sides of the heatsink, but I'm just guessing there.
  • Straight_ManStraight_Man Geeky, in my own way Naples, FL Icrontian
    edited April 2004
    muddocktor wrote:
    You might try Speedfan then. I've had decent luck running it also on several mobos, including the Gigabyte GA-6OXET I used to have, which was real picky about monitoring apps.

    Also, you might want to try an 80mm fan instead of the 92mm fan on your heatsink. Several people have noted that the 80mm fans work better on Thermalright heatsinks than a 92mm fan. I guess it's because of the larger footprint of the fan hub combined with the extra overhang on the sides of the heatsink, but I'm just guessing there.

    That is right, Muddocktor. The only other way I know to diminish the hub effect is a ThermalTake A1442 with a an 80 mm to 92 mm funneling adapter on it or something like that-- and mounting the ThermalTake part means the A1442 has to be modded, for some Heatsinks.

    Easiest way is a high CFM flow 80 mm fan.

    John D.
  • mr-maltmr-malt Iowa
    edited April 2004
    I guess I'll try a Smart Fan 2. That's an interesting point about the 80>92mm fans. I went with the SLK900 because it could handle 92mm fans (instead of the SLK800). Besides, there seem to be more options in the 80mm category. If that increase in air flow (and greater usage of said air) doesn't help get me to 200FSB, I'll have to try a mobile. Thanks for all the help, I'll post back with results after the new fan is on.
  • edited April 2004
    I'm pretty sure that csimon here at the forums found that he had better temps with the 80mm SF2 than he had with a 92mm Vantec Tornado that pushes something like 100 cfm due to the hub and overhang effect of the 92.
  • mr-maltmr-malt Iowa
    edited April 2004
    The more I think about it, the more of a "duh" it's becoming.
    But hey...just think how cool the area around the socket is with a 92mm!! It has roughly 48cfm flowing over it :rolleyes:.
  • Straight_ManStraight_Man Geeky, in my own way Naples, FL Icrontian
    edited April 2004
    muddocktor wrote:
    I'm pretty sure that csimon here at the forums found that he had better temps with the 80mm SF2 than he had with a 92mm Vantec Tornado that pushes something like 100 cfm due to the hub and overhang effect of the 92.

    I have had the same effect on trying 92 mms using about 6 different pairs of 92 mm versus 80 mm fans on 5 different HSs. hub is so big on the 92 mm fans that center of HS does not get good air flow, and the HSs cannot spread heat enough to outer edges to make the outer flow work. 80 mms won on all counts unless I stuck a ducting mod and\or a funnel in place. Combined weight meant I had to rig supports to keep even pressure on CPu when that was done-- 12" Tiewraps to stick-on tiewrap holddowns were used for that, qty two tiewraps, qty 4 holddowns. Duct tilt opening was toward exhaust fans at back of case.

    On the P4 boxes an 80 mm ~40 CFM CPU cooling fan is more than sufficient given my case fanning (which is over 160 CFM total in fans in Antec SOHO or Performance cases-- I use one each, 1000 series as far as size), for the things I do. For what you folks are doing, I do not know the CFM needed. But size for the fan unless you need huge airflows, is 80 mm is best for most CPU HSs in applications where you directly mount fan to HS. This is because of hub blocking too much center of HS airflow when bigger size is used.

    John D.
  • mr-maltmr-malt Iowa
    edited May 2004
    Finally got the smartfan 2 from newegg, missed the fedex guy Thurs and Friday!! So....what's the best way of going about installing this thing for my application? Temp control, manual control? If I go temp control, where should I place the sensor? I kinda wish they'd throw in some documentation with it?!?
  • mr-maltmr-malt Iowa
    edited May 2004
    Went ahead with using manual adjust. configuration.
    Set FSB@200
    VCore@1.800

    Load under Prime (max heat) is 51C with fan @ ~3835RPM

    Really not to pleased with this processor. Wouldn't have gone out of my way for this stepping if I'd known the results would be less than excellent. Oh well, once she's toast, I'll go mobile ;).


    Could someone confirm max Barton temps, I recall 50C being the max safe. Is that correct? Also, how about northbridge, as it's running right there with the temp?
  • MedlockMedlock Miramar, Florida Member
    edited May 2004
    50C should be completely fine. I'm not really sure how good barton's are with temps, compared to my Northwood, but 50C isn't anything to worry about AFAIK. Somewhere up in the mid-sixties if I'm not mistaken, but PLEASE don't take my word for it lol. Someone will correct me if I'm wrong.

    -Rick
  • Straight_ManStraight_Man Geeky, in my own way Naples, FL Icrontian
    edited May 2004
    mr malt wrote:
    Finally got the smartfan 2 from newegg, missed the fedex guy Thurs and Friday!! So....what's the best way of going about installing this thing for my application? Temp control, manual control? If I go temp control, where should I place the sensor? I kinda wish they'd throw in some documentation with it?!?

    Temp control by Thermistor, nearest the base center of HS near bottom of fins that you can get it to, on HS and not with an attempt to get it under HS unles you really want to get a big and very, VERY, delicate and risky modding job on your CPU socket. Then, later, once you see what the speeds run at over time, manual control to that average plus 15% for safety unless it is running the fan at full speed all the time. If it is running at full speed all the time, I would just hard wire the thing. Use thermistor for testing unless it is on the fan itself, then set static to what the thermistor has it running at plus a safety factor as above if you want simple and easy to do-- especially if box is running when you are not home to adjust it a lot, or if you sleep like a log, like I do.
  • mr-maltmr-malt Iowa
    edited May 2004
    TheGr81-
    If you're right, that'd be a relief. I actually crashed at my previously posted specs, Prime had been doing great, until....well...until something errored. I bumped Vcore to 1.825. Temps are at 52C with fan at 3750RPM. Patiently waiting.
  • MedlockMedlock Miramar, Florida Member
    edited May 2004
    Ack! What happened to my other post? I could've sworn I had posted it... maybe I closed the window accidentally... Anyway it went something like this.

    WOW! I just realized how hot that barton of yours is running. Are you sure your heatsink is on right? I don't see any reason why your cpu would run on idle at 120+* if your case temps are ~76. My case temps are 90+. (Florida+no A/C+summer= :rarr: ) and my cpu folds for days on end at ~122*. (Right now it's case 93* and my cpu ~125*.) And as I've said before I'm running a stock Intel heatsink. I would definately check that heatsink of yours.

    If temps don't improve dramatically after reseating it, (with those case temps i would expect cpu temps of around 80* at idle. Those are my temps when my case is that cool.) I would recommend you get a new heatsink, 'cause I would hate to see that thing's temps while under load.
  • mr-maltmr-malt Iowa
    edited May 2004
    TheGr81,

    Heatsink is installed properly, with AS5. I applied a paper thin amount, and even tinted my SLK900A HS (even though AS said it is not necessary with AS5).
    I'm using SpeedFan 4.11 to measure temps while in XP, it recognized my Windbond chips without problem. Though perhaps the readings are inaccurate, I will check bios next time I reboot.
    Perhaps I got a really sub-par Barton?. Or maybe my Albatron board blows....not that I can really hold it responsible for this (just a little sour over having to RMA my first board, and that they haven't put out a bios update since last year:eek2: )!
  • MedlockMedlock Miramar, Florida Member
    edited May 2004
    Well, if you're sure it's on right, then I don't see those temps as anything remotely near realistic. Yeah... maybe it's the board, as you said.
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