Processor undervolted??
I've run my processor at stock speeds for a very long time, and under load, though it gave me no problems, seems to be undervolted. ASUS Probe reads 1.438, but the stock setting for a P4 Northwood is 1.525 isn't it? That is the current setting in BIOS, btw. I'm able to get up to 3.06 GHz at this setting. I tried upping the voltage slightly when I went up to 3.2GHz, but it didn't make much of a difference, and it was very unstable. (Folding@Home crashed, just the second console but not the first) So I put it back down at 3 GHz. I've been able to hit 3.2 GHz before, back in the winter/fall, but I've had to throttle it down a bit as temperatures have rised quite a bit and I'm not always around to keep an eye on things.
I'm thinking of bumping the voltage way up when my new heatsink arrives, but I'm not sure that will help a lot. Could my PSU be behind this, or is it this crappy mobo? I'm pretty sure it's the PSU. I was cheap and came with my casing. It's rated 520 watts, but you always get what you pay for right? My bios will let me set it up to 1.6v but I'm still not sure if I will get anywhere near that high if I actually put it up there.
See the picture I have attached...
I'm thinking of bumping the voltage way up when my new heatsink arrives, but I'm not sure that will help a lot. Could my PSU be behind this, or is it this crappy mobo? I'm pretty sure it's the PSU. I was cheap and came with my casing. It's rated 520 watts, but you always get what you pay for right? My bios will let me set it up to 1.6v but I'm still not sure if I will get anywhere near that high if I actually put it up there.
See the picture I have attached...
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I'll go see if I can find it on the 'net.
\\EDIT: found where it is in MBM5 ... here's a pic of it right now
http://www.svc.com/ag52atxposup.html
entr0py, I don't know if asus probe will work with anything but asus boards. Give it a shot if you can I guess. I'm pretty sure it's quite normal for the voltage to be slightly less than normal when under load. I'd expect the voltages mbm5 is reading for you. But I get this crap.
BTW, I'm not really sure what voltage it idles at. This computer is never idle.
Edit:// Oooh. I didn't see your post, mudd. I really don't know anything about this stuff. lol I didn't know it was so low. I would have gotten a better PSU if I wasn't a relative n00b when I built this machine.
Man that sucks. 2 LED fans and the cathode is all that's hooked up to the PSU, besides 1 cd-rw and 1 hdd, and the mobo of course... and the video card. I'll get rid of the cathode I guess. It's doing me no good now.
...What PSU do you guys recommend? I guess I really don't need that much wattage. I could prolly live with 350 with what I have now. Should I shoot for 420 or so?
If either have failed, and you plug in just a PSU, it and computer will get damaged as it tries to compensate for bad ground, unless you replace surge strip, know wall outlet is good, and you replace cord. The second test also validates your socket in wall if results are within the range I gave you, you will only have a flow that way at nominal if lines in house are good for ground, and if that test fails and you repeat in another socket in another room and get bad, either house has major grounding problems or cord is bad. At that point, would test wall sockets used for test with VOM directly, if they both test good, IE you get nominal power flow from hot to ground, then cord is bad.
Checking outside of box zeroes problem to box or determines something cheaper than a PSU is best first buy from inimum expense, and with any of those things bad, new PSU will die fast and be erratic and you will get all sorts of grief. Cheap surge supplies and cords die more often than PSUs do. IF I am in teh field, I get customers to trust me by explaining why, and get many repeat calls from same folks and thier friends with this strategy of "make sure it is the box first."
What really bothers me is this-- the negative 12 V is high (should be equal to or greater than the 12 V value by absolute value(no sign)), and that could be the 12 volt leg or a VERY bad ground in circuit, a resistive ground line or grounding route device. Corrosion, burned circuitry in surge strip, damaged cord, can all do this. PSU ends up feeding more wattage trying to force a ground flow through an inverted 12 V to get negative 12 V (that leg's inverted voltage is used to dampen voltage and amperage backflow, ie to draw down value on ground planes to null voltage) in motherboard, should be low wattage, and voltage equal to or greater than 12 on an absolute scale (take sign off to get absolute number)) and result is it is draining too much capacity through a inverison circuit, can't power computer right. Down here I get so many bad surge strips in use damaging or about to damage boxes, that I check that first, not saying this is necessarily so, but have learned to check each part of power flow from box to wall first. About 40% of the time I sell a surge strip only, 10% cord only, and 30% one each of those three-- the remaining time it turns out to be something else in computer or house circuit totally.
If you have 110V at the wall and 11.4 on the PSU then you really need a new PSU.
One option if the line is bad is to invest in a UPS. Battery backup and voltage stability all in one. Not to mention lightling protection. I won't run a box without one.
The voltage drop while cpu loaded is normal. It is caused by the increased current demand from the CPU, but it should stay within 10% or less. This is due to the power regulator circuits usually being current controlled and not voltage controlled. They have to do it this way or all the boards would fry right away. I generally bump my Vcore up a notch in the bios to help with stability.
After all this rambling I would say all the points made are great, but don't rule out one of the obvious possible fail points. Motherboards do have issues too.
This is what my IC7-G shows with my 2.4 at 3340 MHz, using an Antec TrueControl 550. I don't have the -12v and -5v reading shown because MBM is giving some ridiculously low figures for them, must not read them correctly.
However...
http://www.short-media.com/review.php?r=128
I still prefer what I have. A 480w Tagan. Silent but so powerful
Considering it's powering an Athlon 64 3200+, two power hungry WD Raptors, two maxtor SATAs AND an additional WD JB hard drive, 9800xt, Audigy 2, DVD and CD writers .... it handles everything I can throw at it
...dammit