FluidXP+

csimoncsimon Acadiana Icrontian
edited July 2005 in Hardware
OK ...

It's saturday folks.
Just me and my son ...the internet and my credit card. I'm sitting around laying out my watercooling project and reach a stopping point. Thinking ahead I wonder what fluid and coolant shall I use? :scratch:

So I search high and low for solutions and the most sane conclusion I draw is distilled water and a $5 2oz bottle of coolant. :thumbsup:

Now ...I must ask ...why wasn't that good enough? :shakehead

So I headed over to www.fluidxp.com and searched some purchase sites and found a *ehem* good deal on fluidxp the wonder solution. I ordered a 32ox bottle of $30. :wtf:

Ok ...I feel better now. :rant:

Comments

  • mmonninmmonnin Centreville, VA
    edited July 2005
    Yeah yeah, holy thread resurection batman...

    I have been wondering what to do about this as well.

    Is it needed in a closed system? I think its one of the last things I think I need before I put together my A64 WCing system.

    I see pictured of other people's systems and I know the tubing is clear but the water is greenish. Whats best to put in the water and why?
  • csimoncsimon Acadiana Icrontian
    edited July 2005
    The best thing to put in the water is ...nothing.

    The best is fluidxp+ because it uses no additives. It is deionized water (mostly) that stays deionized unless you do add something to it. This eliminates the chance of corrosion to the internals of your wc components. This is most important if you have mixed metal components like copper and aluminum.

    My whitewater block is copper with an aluminum top and this configuration is known for anodizing and corroding. I have seen none of this nor have I see algae or bacteria for that matter since I started using the product. I highly recommend it and I won't use anything else.

    Sure it's expensive. But what if you get a leak? I've dropped this stuff all over the insides of my computer (not recommended of course) while filling and it hasn't failed me yet. No other fluid can match that. If you want it in green they make a uv die especially for their product now but don't just add anything to turn the water a different color or it will become reionized (is that a word?).

    As for the green stuff? Well what is most commonly recommended (and used) is distilled water with a coolant additive which is the green stuff. The coolant is most commonly automotive radiator fluid and in some instances zerex racing fluid. It does the job and is inexpensive but must be added in proper amounts. If too much is in the loop it has issues and if too little it is practically ineffective. It usually also stains the inisides of your loop and don't spring a leak or it will be costly.

    So ...what's a few dollars for a little piece of mind? ;D

    I can also recommend a excellent pump for this ...are you still tinkering with the bong idea?

    Here go to the FluidXP+ website and check it out ...watch the video and whatnot and if you still want to use coolant variations I'll show you a few forums that can talk about this infinitely.
  • mmonninmmonnin Centreville, VA
    edited July 2005
    Well I never looked into the bong thing.

    I did buy some WCing equipment from EQ and Omega the past few weeks tho. I think all I need to finish 3 computer WCing systems (1 A64, 1 socket A, Dual Socket A) is another pump for one of the systems and some fluid additive.

    I still need to read up how how to put it all in the best configuration as well.
  • lemonlimelemonlime Canada Member
    edited July 2005
    AFAIK, Coolant is not a good additive, unless you plan on chilling your water. Coolant will cause the water to become 'thicker'. Most of those additives like fluidXP or Swiftec's additive work great. You basically want a small amount of additive to keep dissimilar metals from corroding, and to keep biological nasties from forming. I find that the recommended amounts are FAR too high. I have a very small amount of Swiftec additive in my loop, and it works great. Swiftec recommended something like two small bottles for my loop, I used less than a third of one bottle.

    I ran my loop without any additives for a while when I first set it up, just to test, and I had no temperature increase after adding the additive.
  • csimoncsimon Acadiana Icrontian
    edited July 2005
    mmonnin wrote:
    Well I never looked into the bong thing.

    I did buy some WCing equipment from EQ and Omega the past few weeks tho. I think all I need to finish 3 computer WCing systems (1 A64, 1 socket A, Dual Socket A) is another pump for one of the systems and some fluid additive.

    I still need to read up how how to put it all in the best configuration as well.

    that's probably debatable as well but in actuality it isn't all that important really. No matter what config you use that works you won't see any more that a 1c difference so there is no magical setup. The best config is whatever is best for you. Larry had a good suggestion about the "T" fill line being installed on the inlet side near the pump which I've heard is best.

    My setup is (not necessarily the best):
    pump>rad>block>T>pump
    I bought a second pump and I have it running inline but I will be moving it to get better head pressure ...it will be:
    pump>rad>pump>block>T>pump

    If you get fluidxp I highly recommend the MAG at their site.
  • mmonninmmonnin Centreville, VA
    edited July 2005
    I saw the FluidXP for like $30 somewhere but the stuff at the swiftech site was like $2 plus S&H.
  • JonseyJonsey Microsoft Corporation
    edited July 2005
    The reason ethylene glycol (bright green/yellow car anti-freeze) is used in so many water cooling systems, including your car, is not for it's cooling properties. In fact, it resists changes to temperature (has higher? (gurfle, chemistry/physics fails me now) specific heat) more than water does.

    However, ethylene glycol is *great* at preventing corrosion. So, while it lowers how effectively you can cool, and does add to the viscosity of the water, it should keep your copper parts and your aluminium parts and everything else playing happily together.

    Don't really know if this is on topic to this thread, but I'm feeling like sharing today.
  • csimoncsimon Acadiana Icrontian
    edited July 2005
    mmonnin wrote:
    I saw the FluidXP for like $30 somewhere but the stuff at the swiftech site was like $2 plus S&H.

    It's $30.99 at dtek ...http://www.dtekcustoms.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=139&HS=1

    both bottles I bought were $29.99 ...one i got from dtek and one i got from integritypc...you can find all the sales from the links at fluidxp.com
  • mmonninmmonnin Centreville, VA
    edited July 2005
    Is either stuff better than the other?
  • csimoncsimon Acadiana Icrontian
    edited July 2005
    fluidxp is almost all the same.
    if you buy from a company that sells waterblocks then the viscosity might be a little different but not much. Also fluidxp sells its own version of the csp-MAG and so does dtek because the empeller is optimized for the for a greater viscosity fluid.

    don't add anything to the fluid or it will ruin it and defeat the purpose unless it is the uv fluid made by the mfg. The fluid itself is corrosion-resistant and algae-resistant and also lubricates the pump. If you rub it between your fingers it feels oily. You can even drink it I think (please do not try this at home)!!! :thumbsup:
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