Bleeding the air out

mmonninmmonnin Centreville, VA
edited September 2005 in Hardware
Well I am in the process of bleeding the air out of my system. I dont think there are any more big packets in the system anymore. I have a Y at the top of my system where I can add water. But when I run the system to check for leaks, the water looks like there are a bunch of really small bubbles, the color isnt greenish like when its still, but like the water is being stired around and air is being added to the mix.

I was wondering if I should just leave it running, the PC isnt on, and if the air will just rise to the top and the water wont look white when running after so long?

Comments

  • leishi85leishi85 Grand Rapids, MI Icrontian
    edited September 2005
    just leave the pump running, and make sure there isn't a plug on the Y, and remaining air will slowly bleed out.
  • mmonninmmonnin Centreville, VA
    edited September 2005
    Bah still have some bubbles I need to work out.
  • leishi85leishi85 Grand Rapids, MI Icrontian
    edited September 2005
    it takes a little while.
  • mmonninmmonnin Centreville, VA
    edited September 2005
    When I made that post I still had some pockets inside the rad. Its lookin clear now tho. Thanks!
  • shwaipshwaip bluffin' with my muffin Icrontian
    edited September 2005
    if you put a drop of liquid dish soap in, it will help remove the bubbles.
  • mmonninmmonnin Centreville, VA
    edited September 2005
    Hmm I might have to try that. Installing windows now.

    Specs on the system.

    NF7-S
    Mobile 2400+ AXP
    Kingston PC3500 HyperX
    Enermax 365 PSU
    Antec Case

    Cooling:
    Swiftech MCW5002-A CPU block
    Swiftech MCP360 Pump
    Swiftech MCR120-QP-FKRB Rad

    Pump -> CPU Block -> Rad and back to pump

    I didnt use the rad like it was quite designed. I actually took the rad and put it between the case and front bezel and the fan on the inside of the case. The case was designed to use a 120mm fan in front and rear anyway to I used the wholes for the fan to attach the fan and the rad together to the case. I cut some holes in the front of the case to the tubing can run thru the case. The HDD cage cant be removed anymore tho. Its a heck of a lot quiter than before with SLK-947 and TT SmartFan at Full blast and a Mechatronics fan in the rear of the case.

    And I just realized that the damn Abit fan is dead!

    The whole system, including the WCing setup, will be available soon as I am going to have to sell it for tuition.
  • JimboraeJimborae Newbury, Berks, UK New
    edited September 2005
    I cant get the air out my system, the bubbles go into the res & then get sucked straight back into the system. :(
  • shwaipshwaip bluffin' with my muffin Icrontian
    edited September 2005
    how big is your res? If it's big enough, you can throw the piece of aquarium foam (the foam that came with your pump) in the res, and it will help take care of the bubbles.
  • JimboraeJimborae Newbury, Berks, UK New
    edited September 2005
    Res isn't really big enough, it's a dangerden one.

    How does it take care of the bubbles though???
  • shwaipshwaip bluffin' with my muffin Icrontian
    edited September 2005
    the bubbles stay in foam, and only water goes out the out line (especially if you can get the foam in front of the out line).
  • JimboraeJimborae Newbury, Berks, UK New
    edited September 2005
    This is the kind of thing I'm talking about but it's not as bad as that anymore.

    attachment.php?attachmentid=4673
  • TheLostSwedeTheLostSwede Trondheim, Norway Icrontian
    edited September 2005
    Jim, the reservoir is doing its job when the bubbles is at the top. However, to get rid of them, you need to open the top so that the air can get out and that you should replace the bubbles with water. Is there an opening on the top of the reservoir? The reservoir is at the highest point of the loop right?

    If there isn't a bleeding hole at the top, you can drill a little hole to bleed the air and seal it afterwards with a dab of silicon paste after you have filled it with water.

    The sign that the bubbles stay is actually a sign that the loop is seal tight.
  • JimboraeJimborae Newbury, Berks, UK New
    edited September 2005
    Hi Mack,

    Yeah I've done that it's just that the bubbles remain & end up getting sucked back.

    Eitherway I suppose I should be happy as the load temps are only 38-42c & thats with a tec in the loop. 7 x 120mm fans & two rads do work it would seem :)
  • mmonninmmonnin Centreville, VA
    edited September 2005
    7x 120mm FANS!!! Dang.

    What should I use to plug the end of the fill tube? The closest thing I have now is a dremel bit but its rough and cant be completely sealed.
  • leishi85leishi85 Grand Rapids, MI Icrontian
    edited September 2005
    i stole a rubber stopper from chem lab, it's a perfect fit, and seals the fill tube good, look for something like that.
  • TheLostSwedeTheLostSwede Trondheim, Norway Icrontian
    edited September 2005
    Marc,

    Got a "Y" nipple?
    If you do, connect that to the fill/bleed tube and 2-3 inches of tubing on the other 2 nipples on the "Y"

    Just for the cause of it, some people call it a nipple, some call it a nozzle. It's not my purpose to bring out possible sexual thoughts even though i must admit, a "Y" nipple is a downer. ;D
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