I cover setting up the free software and building the simple cable. This is ideal for monitors different than the P1110, as you don't need to physically modify your monitor. (You don't even need to remove the case!)Plus,building the cable is cheaper/easier than getting/soldering the resistors. You can also tweak your convergence, geometry, auto-resizing. All settings can be backed up to file, and any setting can be modified.
I have received a wonderful email from LAGRUNAUER about the resistor fix for the p1130
There is no r459 in the P1130, and if you choose the resistor fix approach, you need to follow the G2 cable from the A1 board (connected to the neck of the monitor) to the main board (D board), then the resistor r941, which is the one next to the cable, needs to be increased.
"In order to solder another resistor in parallel, you need to un-mount the D2 board and that involves removing the CRT, the CRT housing, and the A boards, besides several cables, connectors and grounds. There are several high voltage components inside a monitor which can be lethal. This is very tedious work, and unless you are familiar with electronics and have previous experience in working with monitors, I do not recommend this approach."
The R941 resistor is a 22M ohm resistor and from searching the net people have replaced it with an 16.8M ohm resistor. Thanks again LAGRUNAUER, and all others for there valuable insight.
Another way to fix is to press and hold the select key on the front panel of the monitor for more than 2 sec when the monitor is in standby mode. Your screen will go bright then fade alittle. The LED lights will flash amber and green. When the screen stops to fade you can restart your monitor. Pressing the up arrow button gives you the serial number, whilst pressing and holding the + button gives more detail manufacturing info.
I have the schematics of both the p1100 and the p1130 if anyone would like them.
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http://www.geocities.com/gregua/windas/
I cover setting up the free software and building the simple cable. This is ideal for monitors different than the P1110, as you don't need to physically modify your monitor. (You don't even need to remove the case!)Plus,building the cable is cheaper/easier than getting/soldering the resistors. You can also tweak your convergence, geometry, auto-resizing. All settings can be backed up to file, and any setting can be modified.
There is no r459 in the P1130, and if you choose the resistor fix approach, you need to follow the G2 cable from the A1 board (connected to the neck of the monitor) to the main board (D board), then the resistor r941, which is the one next to the cable, needs to be increased.
"In order to solder another resistor in parallel, you need to un-mount the D2 board and that involves removing the CRT, the CRT housing, and the A boards, besides several cables, connectors and grounds. There are several high voltage components inside a monitor which can be lethal. This is very tedious work, and unless you are familiar with electronics and have previous experience in working with monitors, I do not recommend this approach."
The R941 resistor is a 22M ohm resistor and from searching the net people have replaced it with an 16.8M ohm resistor. Thanks again LAGRUNAUER, and all others for there valuable insight.
Another way to fix is to press and hold the select key on the front panel of the monitor for more than 2 sec when the monitor is in standby mode. Your screen will go bright then fade alittle. The LED lights will flash amber and green. When the screen stops to fade you can restart your monitor. Pressing the up arrow button gives you the serial number, whilst pressing and holding the + button gives more detail manufacturing info.
I have the schematics of both the p1100 and the p1130 if anyone would like them.