Well it looks scary right now. I'm just testing it out. I don't have the extra sensors. I don't even have the usb cable or the connetor to connect the card to the mobo atx switch. I use a flathead screwdriver to connect the 2 pins together when I need to turn it back on The guy I bought it from should be sending me the usb cable soon. My new desk just came today, can't wait to have it all set up.
Oh I've seen this before, haha. How did this mess it up for you? It shouldn't made it better right? So you have the pin coming out of the evaporator head plugged into temp2 slot? My temp1 slot is empty since it said not to use it. I don't have the extra sensors. Even though I don't have the usb cable, so I can't control the vapo, it still shuts off when the computer shuts down.
Oh I've seen this before, haha. How did this mess it up for you? It shouldn't made it better right? So you have the pin coming out of the evaporator head plugged into temp2 slot? My temp1 slot is empty since it said not to use it. I don't have the extra sensors. Even though I don't have the usb cable, so I can't control the vapo, it still shuts off when the computer shuts down.
It didn't really mess it up, but my CPU has a case of the cold bug, so if it gets too cold, I get instability at idle. This only happened at 3.3GHz, so I'm forced to use a memory divider to keep it stable (even though my memory can go up to 300MHz).. I havent torn it down yet, but I'm going to clean everything up and try again. Right now I cant even get 3.1 stable, let alone 3.2 like before
Actually, I don't think that is the temperature sensor.. that is probably the heater plug. The evaporator sensor goes up the tube (under the insulation), and connects via the vapochill cable (the one with several pins), not with a stand alone cable. Basically, you should just leave the first connector empty. The others should only be used if you want to use the optional sensor kit (I dont have it either). If the cable is the one that comes out of the opening (outside of the insulation), that should be the heater connection. Mine is orange, but in your pictures it looks black, I think its just a slightly older revision.
Hope that makes sense..
Btw, make sure you crank your heaters to 100% once you get the USB cable and the software installed.. it will help to reduce condensation, and will not reduce the temperature more than 1 degree.
Yeah, do you see the 2 black cables coming out of the back of the insulation? That's plugged into temp2 on the circuit board. The cable from the heater on the back of the mobo is plugged into heater1. This should be correct, right?
How many cables do you have (the black pairs)? Hard to tell from the pictures..
On my system, I have one heater on the rear of the board, and the second is integrated into the clamshell. You should have two heaters. If the guy you bought it from already assembled the clamshell for you, you won't see the heater, but it is in there. The arrow in this picture points to where the heater cables come out of my evaporator clamshell. I don't have anything at all connected to my temp pins, and it still shows the evaporator temperature in the chill-control software. Thats why they tell you not to use the first temp probe connector, because its already being used via. the vapochill connection cable (the black one coming from the vapo housing).
Ohhhhhhh, I was plugging the heater coming from the back of the insulation to the temp sensor pin. I never would of though that you would want a heater right next to the cooling pipe.
What kind of memory do you have? wow 300mhz! I am looking to buy a new 2gb kit, but I can't seem to find any good ones that get ddr600 speeds and good latency. I heard UCCC sticks have good speed, but I don't know what companies make them.
A lot of TCCD sticks can get to 300mhz. A lot are only 2*512 though and not 2gb sets. I think mine POSTed up to 316 and ran a loop through Memtest in the BIOS before it wouldnt pass anymore although with very relaxed timings.
Yep, TCCD (OCZ Platinum Rev.2 PC3200). Its hard on the memory controller running at DDR600 though, especially if its cold bugged at all.
Don't worry about the temp sensor, it shouldn't hurt anything The heater around the clamshell helps to reduce condensation. It is on the outside of the insulation (right under the outter plastic) so the heat should not impact the hose/evaporator much at all. Again, when you get your usb cable, crank it up to 100%.. especially if you use your system 24/7.. asetek recommends 100%, even though the default is 25%.
I'm using OCZ Platinum Rev.2 sticks, but unfortunatly, there are no 2GB kits using TCCD, only 2x512MB kits.
There are quite a few TCCD kits still around. Your best bet is to go with PC4000 or PC4800 models (if you can find them) They will do 300MHz with greater ease than the PC3200 varieties, and often with tighter timings too. This thread has a good listing: http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?t=43659
I'd tend to doubt that claim.. I have not seen a single 2GB kit that consistently makes it to 300MHz. You may find an odd kit that will come close, but its very unlikely.
I've had to remove the vapo completely since ice was building up and I was starting to show the cold bug. I accidently bent the pins on the cpu so I had to buy a new opty 170. A higher revision. I bought a different pair of memory sticks as well.
Well so far I can get it to run stable @ 2.71 1.47v 1/1 memory divider
It's been extremely frustrating trying to go anywhere above this. I have memory locked in at 3448.
If I try 302x9 w/ 183mhz divider it works. 303 or anything above freezes as soon as I run sp2004/prime95.
So I put memory divider down to 166mhz and bring it up to 310x9. This should eliminate any memory problems since it's running at 253ddr which is stock speed. But it freezes just as windows is almost completely booting, just after it logs my user account in. I tried bossting vcor all the way up to 1.67v and the memory is always 2.8v.
Now normally with cpu problem you will see a BSOD or it will reboot on you right? It does nothing but freeze. I have to hit the reset button. Freezeing is usually memory problems right?
Before when I was using the vapo, I could boot it all the way up to 3.1 but sp2004/prime would always fail. It never froze; F@H client would always crash and restart over and over since the cpu isn't working accurately.
The freezing you describe looks like the cold bug to me Is it freezing at post? or in can you get into windows at all?
Something to try: Put your RAM on a massive divider (try 1/2 or 100MHz), see if that makes a difference and report back. This can be very frustrating with 90nm chips I'm afraid. Try to play around with drive strength a bit in the BIOS (try weaker values), but other than that, not much else that can be done.
It can't be the cold bug since I never used the vapo on this new chip. I wrote down the revision somewhere, I can't find the paper right now though. It gets into windows and logs into my user account, but then it immediately freezes up. Same thing in safe mode. Are you sure the ram can run that slow? I thought I was having problem running it below 250mhz.
It can't be the cold bug since I never used the vapo on this new chip. I wrote down the revision somewhere, I can't find the paper right now though. It gets into windows and logs into my user account, but then it immediately freezes up. Same thing in safe mode. Are you sure the ram can run that slow? I thought I was having problem running it below 250mhz.
Oooh, didn't realize you were running on air right now. If you are having issues running your ram below 250MHz, be sure to try the following:
Keep 'Read Preamble' and 'Max Async Latency' on Auto. Try to tinker with the 'DRAM Performance' setting as well, there are three settings (Normal, Fast and Fastest) That can make a big difference as well.
I'd be curious to see if running your memory that low helps. Let us know how it goes.
Thats unlucky CSimon, my 165 will do 2.8 on air but I have to set the vcore to 1.6 so im running it at 2.6Ghz and 1.475v cos i think 1.6 is probably too high
Well here is the max I can seem to get it. I bought the thermaltake Big typhoon. I moved the memory to the orange slots since DFI reccomends using those slots for dual channel and I was having problems posting in the yellow slots. It runs perfectly stable 24x7 @ 2.7, but if I try to even go 2.75 it freezes up in windows immediately. Freezing means memory problems right? I was only able to get the memory down to 242mhz to boot, but it didn't work completely stable. Everything is on Auto excet for timmings locked in at 3448. I have Dram performance at normal since fast and fastest wouldn't even post. I have no idea why I get such extreme results by adding or subtracting 50mhz.
Thats unlucky CSimon, my 165 will do 2.8 on air but I have to set the vcore to 1.6 so im running it at 2.6Ghz and 1.475v cos i think 1.6 is probably too high
At what temp under full load?
My 165 can only seem to get up to 2.7 before getting glitchy. It runs at case temp while idle (32-35 degrees, depending on the temp of the room) and 43-50 under full load.
skankinred 50mhz can make all the difference when you're at higher HTT frequencys, generally once i got to 2.55Ghz every 50 mhz meant I needed a boost in Vcore, have you tried more vcore?
I'm still having problems with stability at 2.7. I have the vcore all the way up to 1.65 but I still get BSOD errors. They only show up when I start messing with Bittorents; adding and deleting a lot, or download 10+ at the same time. Otherwise it never BSOD even when running sp2004. BSOD is cpu issues right? If it were memory it would lock up correct?
I'm still having problems with stability at 2.7. I have the vcore all the way up to 1.65 but I still get BSOD errors. They only show up when I start messing with Bittorents; adding and deleting a lot, or download 10+ at the same time. Otherwise it never BSOD even when running sp2004. BSOD is cpu issues right? If it were memory it would lock up correct?
In my experience, SP2004/Prime stability means the CPU and memory are doing well. If you get a lot of BSODs even though it is prime stable, it is likely the result of HTT out of spec, or some other mainboard related issue. It could also be power related, as the hard drives and other components will be putting extra strain during those types of tasks you mentioned.
I wouldn't rule out Hard drive issues as well. Run a chkdsk /R to ensure there are no bad sectors or NTFS related problems.
I only have 3 hard drives in the system and 1 dvdrw/cdrw. With a PC P&C sli 510, I would think power problems wouldn't be an issue. So I'm at 269x10 x4HTT. 1.55vcore. So HTT is only 2152, which is within the reccomend range. It's strange that only when heavily using bittorents, I get BSOD. I also remember a program that would always crash at a point and try to launch drwatson. I would block it when Zonealarm prompts me to allow access. But if I allowed Drwatson to launch I would immediately get a BSOD.
I wanted to be clear on this: Freezes are memory issues usually, and BSOD is more cpu right?
I've ran a full scandisk; I use diskeeper if that matters at all.
What exactly does the OV % mean? Right now I'm trying 1.4 + 110%ov and SmartGuardian is showing 1.52v. Is this OV% constantly on, or does it vary?
The Cpu is running around 55-60C and PWMIC is running around 58-63. Are these temperature too high?
AMD64 TCaseMax says 57C, 75.0 Watts max.
I am also having problems with windows taking 5 minutes to boot up. Most the time the WIndows Logo with the meter scrolling below it for 5 mins. The HD activity light never lights up, and I can't hear it doing anything. It usually happens if I reboot. Most the cold boots don't do this. I have no idea what's causing this.
Comments
btw, how did you mess up the heatspreader?
Bit of a long story about the heatspreader, but you can read about it here..
It didn't really mess it up, but my CPU has a case of the cold bug, so if it gets too cold, I get instability at idle. This only happened at 3.3GHz, so I'm forced to use a memory divider to keep it stable (even though my memory can go up to 300MHz).. I havent torn it down yet, but I'm going to clean everything up and try again. Right now I cant even get 3.1 stable, let alone 3.2 like before
Actually, I don't think that is the temperature sensor.. that is probably the heater plug. The evaporator sensor goes up the tube (under the insulation), and connects via the vapochill cable (the one with several pins), not with a stand alone cable. Basically, you should just leave the first connector empty. The others should only be used if you want to use the optional sensor kit (I dont have it either). If the cable is the one that comes out of the opening (outside of the insulation), that should be the heater connection. Mine is orange, but in your pictures it looks black, I think its just a slightly older revision.
Hope that makes sense..
Btw, make sure you crank your heaters to 100% once you get the USB cable and the software installed.. it will help to reduce condensation, and will not reduce the temperature more than 1 degree.
On my system, I have one heater on the rear of the board, and the second is integrated into the clamshell. You should have two heaters. If the guy you bought it from already assembled the clamshell for you, you won't see the heater, but it is in there. The arrow in this picture points to where the heater cables come out of my evaporator clamshell. I don't have anything at all connected to my temp pins, and it still shows the evaporator temperature in the chill-control software. Thats why they tell you not to use the first temp probe connector, because its already being used via. the vapochill connection cable (the black one coming from the vapo housing).
What kind of memory do you have? wow 300mhz! I am looking to buy a new 2gb kit, but I can't seem to find any good ones that get ddr600 speeds and good latency. I heard UCCC sticks have good speed, but I don't know what companies make them.
Don't worry about the temp sensor, it shouldn't hurt anything
There are quite a few TCCD kits still around. Your best bet is to go with PC4000 or PC4800 models (if you can find them) They will do 300MHz with greater ease than the PC3200 varieties, and often with tighter timings too. This thread has a good listing: http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?t=43659
Someone on xtreme said they can get them up to 300mhz with the right timings. Since there's no 2gb TCCD kits.
I'd tend to doubt that claim.. I have not seen a single 2GB kit that consistently makes it to 300MHz. You may find an odd kit that will come close, but its very unlikely.
Well so far I can get it to run stable @ 2.71 1.47v 1/1 memory divider
It's been extremely frustrating trying to go anywhere above this. I have memory locked in at 3448.
If I try 302x9 w/ 183mhz divider it works. 303 or anything above freezes as soon as I run sp2004/prime95.
So I put memory divider down to 166mhz and bring it up to 310x9. This should eliminate any memory problems since it's running at 253ddr which is stock speed. But it freezes just as windows is almost completely booting, just after it logs my user account in. I tried bossting vcor all the way up to 1.67v and the memory is always 2.8v.
Now normally with cpu problem you will see a BSOD or it will reboot on you right? It does nothing but freeze. I have to hit the reset button. Freezeing is usually memory problems right?
Before when I was using the vapo, I could boot it all the way up to 3.1 but sp2004/prime would always fail. It never froze; F@H client would always crash and restart over and over since the cpu isn't working accurately.
Any ideas on how to get the cpu past 2.7?
Something to try: Put your RAM on a massive divider (try 1/2 or 100MHz), see if that makes a difference and report back. This can be very frustrating with 90nm chips I'm afraid. Try to play around with drive strength a bit in the BIOS (try weaker values), but other than that, not much else that can be done.
What stepping is your new Opty 170?
Oooh, didn't realize you were running on air right now. If you are having issues running your ram below 250MHz, be sure to try the following:
Keep 'Read Preamble' and 'Max Async Latency' on Auto. Try to tinker with the 'DRAM Performance' setting as well, there are three settings (Normal, Fast and Fastest) That can make a big difference as well.
I'd be curious to see if running your memory that low helps. Let us know how it goes.
At what temp under full load?
My 165 can only seem to get up to 2.7 before getting glitchy. It runs at case temp while idle (32-35 degrees, depending on the temp of the room) and 43-50 under full load.
TheSmj it was idle at 47 and loading at 55
What Vcore u on btw smj?
In my experience, SP2004/Prime stability means the CPU and memory are doing well. If you get a lot of BSODs even though it is prime stable, it is likely the result of HTT out of spec, or some other mainboard related issue. It could also be power related, as the hard drives and other components will be putting extra strain during those types of tasks you mentioned.
I wouldn't rule out Hard drive issues as well. Run a chkdsk /R to ensure there are no bad sectors or NTFS related problems.
I wanted to be clear on this: Freezes are memory issues usually, and BSOD is more cpu right?
I've ran a full scandisk; I use diskeeper if that matters at all.
The Cpu is running around 55-60C and PWMIC is running around 58-63. Are these temperature too high?
AMD64 TCaseMax says 57C, 75.0 Watts max.
I am also having problems with windows taking 5 minutes to boot up. Most the time the WIndows Logo with the meter scrolling below it for 5 mins. The HD activity light never lights up, and I can't hear it doing anything. It usually happens if I reboot. Most the cold boots don't do this. I have no idea what's causing this.