Boy, am i going to have fun this weekend!

TheLostSwedeTheLostSwede Trondheim, Norway Icrontian
edited October 2003 in Hardware
The blocks have finally arrived. The dust you see on the surface is from the isopur. GREAT finish on these suckers. Time to use the Barton 2500 at last. Please excuse the bad crops.

Comments

  • JimboraeJimborae Newbury, Berks, UK New
    edited October 2003
    **** I'm jealous now, they look well sweet Mack.

    I'm still waiting to get my watercooled project of the gound, still need a res, rad & 1/4npt to 1/2 barbs for my swifty mcw462.

    Keep us all updated.

    Regards

    Jim
  • edcentricedcentric near Milwaukee, Wisconsin Icrontian
    edited October 2003
    I can see it now. Mack with the radiator hung out the window going for a record oc.
    Just don't get hurt....

    About your av, is the short guy getting shorter?
  • TheLostSwedeTheLostSwede Trondheim, Norway Icrontian
    edited October 2003
    I was actually thinking of making a closed system this time and experiment with the other 10 odd blocks i have instead. Then again, i´d like to find a small fridge that can hold the radiator and chill the water SLIGHTLY so that i won´t have to insulate. I refuse to use peltiers as it will get to expensive to run 24/7 as i am always folding on my rigs. Shorty is actually getting taller, the great man he is. :D
  • lsevaldlsevald Norway Icrontian
    edited October 2003
    Looks great Mack :thumbsup:


    Are you going to run the blocks in series?? And if so, in what order?

    Lasse
  • TheLostSwedeTheLostSwede Trondheim, Norway Icrontian
    edited October 2003
    Lasse, :D

    As usual i will use: Pump, cpu, gpu, chipset, radiator, pump etc.

    Since i have a 1250 pump, i MIGHT try a "Y" before the cpu so that the gpu and chipset "get their own" loop. That should knock a few degrees off theoretically since i have a pretty powerful radiator.

    What do you think?
  • lsevaldlsevald Norway Icrontian
    edited October 2003
    With such a powerful pump I guess it doesn't matter. The coolant probably travels so fast it barely have time to heat up (from one block to the next). But if it does, I wonder if it would be better to place the NB block earlier in the loop. I'm pretty sure the water exiting the NB block will be just as cold as the water entering it.

    Your "Y" idea sounds good too :)
  • MediaManMediaMan Powered by loose parts.
    edited October 2003
    Those would look very nice on my duallie. :eek2:

    I say...just run pipes down the water and use that cool Norwegian fjord water to bring down those temps.
  • TheLostSwedeTheLostSwede Trondheim, Norway Icrontian
    edited October 2003
    MM,

    I would need a hell of a pump for that. Bente wouldn´t be to happy though. :D
  • lsevaldlsevald Norway Icrontian
    edited October 2003
    Norwegian women...:scratch:

    What rad are you going to use?
  • TheLostSwedeTheLostSwede Trondheim, Norway Icrontian
    edited October 2003
    That blue 2X120 radiatori normally use. But it´s equipped with 1/2 id connections now, the same as the rest of the blocks are.
    Tubing from Eheim will do. A friend sent it to me :D

    Is that tubing any good, Lassse?
  • lsevaldlsevald Norway Icrontian
    edited October 2003
    The green Eheim tubing sure has served me well :) It's very durable and doesn't kink too easily. I got Eheim tubing that has been running for over 3 years in a system here :eek:

    You once sent me a pic of your system, but I wasn't able to make out what kind of rad you were using (dust everywhere ;) ).

    But since you used AC parts in the past, my guess is the EVO 240 (which looks excellent...except maybe a little flow restrictive compared to the BIX2):
  • TheLostSwedeTheLostSwede Trondheim, Norway Icrontian
    edited October 2003
    That´s the one, yes. The only thing i did was to change to 1/2 id instead of that german 3/8 id junk. Is that tubing THAT good? Dang! Then again, i actually used cheap pvc for 6 months on straight tapwater and no additive at all. I had to clean the pump a lot, i can tell you that. It stank!

    The only thing im a little unsure of now that i won´t use a 30 liter bucket is where to put the fill/bleed tube. Bottom or top of the loop? Generally, putting it at the top helps getting the air out easyer and it won´t be in the way as much as in the bottom either. I used that before with success so i might stick with that.
  • lsevaldlsevald Norway Icrontian
    edited October 2003
    The thick walled Tygon R-3603 is probably equally good (looks nicer too), but it's too damn expensive! :( (especially if you rebuild your system often).

    I prefer to have two fill/bleed tubes. One in the bottom (fill), and one in the top (bleed). This way you can fill the system and get most of the air out of the system before turning on the pump. Just make sure that the bottom fill tube is equal in height as the top one. And close the fill/bleed tube on the pressure side before turning on the pump! :eek2::hair:
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