Water Cooled temps wont go down.

JimboraeJimborae Newbury, Berks, UK New
edited December 2003 in Hardware
Ok I got some more powerful fans on my black ice rad plus a homemade fan bus and the temps have only dropped by about two or three degrees.

I have 1 fan pushing and another pulling air through the rad and the difference between full & half power is about 2 degrees. I was expecting alot more.

With system at full load and case/air temp around 29 degrees the cpu is at about 39-41c. Basically whatever I do the cpu temp sits about 10c above the air temp no matter how much air I put through the rad. Is this right.

Regards

Jim

Comments

  • ThraxThrax 🐌 Austin, TX Icrontian
    edited December 2003
    Judging by your post, I'd assume you only have a single 80/120mm rad?

    If this is right; that's why your temps are higher than they could be. 1 x 80 and 1 x 120 rads (Is yours shrouded?), don't perform in the same league as 2 x 80 or 2 x 120. At the convenience of space comes the loss of performance.
  • TheLostSwedeTheLostSwede Trondheim, Norway Icrontian
    edited December 2003
    Pulling air with a shroud is by far the best sollution.

    Do you have a little digital tempmeter available? Put the sensor on the hose before the rad, insulate it with some tejp so that the casetemps wont intrude with the results. Then do the same AFTER the rad and compare. If the results are very similar, the radiator is the problem.

    Edit//Those temps are actually great IMO. What vcore/speed?
  • JimboraeJimborae Newbury, Berks, UK New
    edited December 2003
    Hi guys,

    Sorry I should have posted the set up

    CPU water block = Swiftech MCW 462B
    VGA water block = DangerDen Radeon block
    Chipset water block = DangerDen Z Chip
    Rad = Black ice extreme single 120mm rad with fans either side no shrouds on the rad yet.

    Yep I have a a crude probe so I'll take some readings & post them. The vcore is 1.55, cpu speed is currently 2ghz @200fsb, although it does goes upto 2.4g @ 1.95 volts.

    Regards


    Jim

    PS I also seem to have a lot of air in system despite all my efforts to get rid of it. This was a gash installation originally just to check it all worked but I've not got round to doing it properly :)
  • madmatmadmat
    edited December 2003
    Yeah, I agree, I'm getting 42 degrees C. on my P4 (under load) with my Exos (2.4c @ 3043Mhz, 1.63Vcore) and it's out completely in the air where there's no case heat seeping into the res. or the sides of the rad. so I'd say the temps you're getting are great.
  • ketoketo Occupied. Or is it preoccupied? Icrontian
    edited December 2003
    Multiple issues are leading to what I believe to be correct readings, and VERY acceptable for that setup. I speak as an experienced Danger Den user, Maze 3 with 2 120mm Black Ice Extreme, push/pull 120mm fans on 1 rad, 1X (push, unfortunately, due to space) on the other.

    The fact that you have a single rad and are cooling multiple chips is the first and most important factor. Over time, the heat off 3 loops plus (a very little) heat from the pump will raise the water temp. 10C over ambient is VERY acceptable and leads me to guess that all blocks are properly seated and your system is working very close to, if not at, its maximum efficiency.

    In other words, I wouldn't sweat it. Tinkering is another matter but I doubt you will see further temp drops without further heat dissipation (rad/s). Or, you could just cool the cpu (but what's the fun in that?). Removing the gpu and chipset blocks would likely gain you another 1-3C cpu load temp drop.

    **EDIT** you know what's worked great for me to get rid of trapped air? With the pump running, I tilt the case to about 30-40 degrees forward and backward (not side to side) SLOWLY. When I stop getting bubbles to the top of the loop, I know (from experience doing this) I have taken at least 98% of the air out of my system :thumbsup:
  • TheLostSwedeTheLostSwede Trondheim, Norway Icrontian
    edited December 2003
    Jimbo, you should hear from the noise of the pump if you have air trapped. As long as you have a fill line ahove everything else, that air will go there after a while. It can take days or a week even. Does the pump "slurp"? Like the noise when the last water rins out of the bathtub?
  • NoFutureNoFuture In a 3D world...
    edited December 2003
    Mmmmm. Air in a watercooling loop is not really good.
    Maybe there is air pockets in your rad wich could maybe explain why you feel you WC is not performing like it is suppose too.
    Can you post pictures of it so we can help you better?
  • JimboraeJimborae Newbury, Berks, UK New
    edited December 2003
    No slurping noises Mack, the punp is toatally silent, i just have **** loads of air bubbles whizzing around the res and a strange vortex looking thing in only one of the lines from the Northbridge block to the GPU block. All the other lines are totally bubble free most of the time.

    Keto, done the rocking thing (I think you suggested this before in another thread) and yes that got rid of loads of air but it also kept recirculating bubbles through system when I do it.
  • JimboraeJimborae Newbury, Berks, UK New
    edited December 2003
    Ok here's a piccy, let me know if you want to see anything else.
  • shwaipshwaip bluffin' with my muffin Icrontian
    edited December 2003
    Another place to check for air bubbles is in the radiator... if you shake it, and you hear a noise that sounds like...well...water is moving around, there is air in it. The best way to get air out of a rad (that i've found) is to rotate it while the pump is going (vely close to keto's suggestion).

    You may want to try leaving it off for ~ 30 mins, which should let the air collect in the high points of the system, and then turn the pump on. Doing so helped me to bleed the air out of my system.

    edit:// Are you using water wetter?
  • ketoketo Occupied. Or is it preoccupied? Icrontian
    edited December 2003
    Do you/can you take the lid or cap off the res let the air pressure escape? Another possible fix is to fill the res to within 2-3cm of the top, leaving less air overall in the loop.....hmmmm thinking still
  • TheLostSwedeTheLostSwede Trondheim, Norway Icrontian
    edited December 2003
    Damn. Do you have soap in that loop? As long as the bubbles are in the reservoir, there's no problems. That's actually partially what it is meant for.
  • JimboraeJimborae Newbury, Berks, UK New
    edited December 2003
    Keto, yes I can and will do. The froth is probably caused by washing up liquid that I used to help me slip on some of the hoses. Its the air bubbles underneath the froth in the liquid that I think shouldn't be there.

    Shwaip, I've done that trick as well, not using water wetter but am using anti-freeze, its virtually the same stuff I believe ??.

    Cheers

    Jim
  • JimboraeJimborae Newbury, Berks, UK New
    edited December 2003
    Mack, you guessed right & beat me to it. :)

    Ah so bubbles in the res is not a problem then, thanx for clearing that up.

    So overall then, by most peeps opinions my systems working ok & I should stfu? :)

    Jim
  • shwaipshwaip bluffin' with my muffin Icrontian
    edited December 2003
    IIRC:
    Water wetter lowers the surface tension of the water, which will reduce the amount of bubbles that can form. (It also has other effects, but this is what applies here). I do not believe that Antifreeze does this.
  • NoFutureNoFuture In a 3D world...
    edited December 2003
    Water wetter also prevents your loop form becoming a bacterial culture.
  • BudBud Chesterfield, Va
    edited December 2003
    water wetter is a heck of alot better, helps prevents bubbles unlike antifreeze like shwaip said but also cools better than antifreeze.
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