Resurrection…….Celtic Spirit
jedihobbit
Central Virginia, USA New
Alrighty then use the links below as a ref to see my starting point. I’ve decided to destroy domestic tranquility and finish my first build. For a somewhat abbreviated version of the original work logS (yes more than one) see………..
http://forums.pcper.com/showthread.php?t=412001&highlight=celtic+spirit & http://forums.pcper.com/showthread.php?t=436693&page=2&highlight=celtic+spirit
I started with (Factory pic) ……..
Went this far……..
And then became enamored with mATX builds and for some reason lost interest.
Before I go any further let’s do the projected hardware list…..for those that have been following my meanderings will recognize most of if not all of the components. As they have come over from KestrelFlight on air to be water cooled here.
CASE: Antec 1200SX
PSU:Zalman ZM1000-HP Plus
CPU: PII X4 1055T w/ Computer Cuplex Kryos XT
GPU:2 x Evga GTX 580 w/ -FC580 GTX - Nickel / Plexi & Backplate
MEMORY: F3-16000CL9D-4GBTD w/ Zalman ZM-RC1000
HDD 1: Zalman SSD0032S1 32GB SSD (Primary)
HDD 2: WD RaptorX 160GB or V’Raptor 300GB (Misc Apps etc)
HDD 3: 2 x WD1001FALS 1TB (RAID 0 Storage)
Optical Drive 1: TBD
Fan Controller: TBD
Last night I brought it down from the attic, uncovered it and was surprised that while it isn’t the best my initial painting wasn’t as bad as I thought. Initial checking was to see what can be done about mounting rads on the inside. Originally it was slated to have 1 x 92mm plus 2 x 80mm in the front bezel with another 92 + 2 x 80s in the rear. Plus whatever the PSU offered. As I already stated somewhere before, top mount rads are out because of the top window (that was the rage back then).
If I remove all the sheet metal related to the Hdd drive cages I have an approximate 13†vertical space for a rad. If I can cut out the bottom bay divider I might be able to go a bit higher. BUT the 6 5.25 bays need to house a minimum of 3 platter HDD as well as one SSD, fan controller(s), optical drive(s), and another related items. However the one 3.5 and dedicated FDD slot (remember those?) could go by – by. To save time sadly the FDD location will show from the front. A second rad will be bottom mounted, and as I’m looking to use 140s I could be limited there (~13â€). Initial eye ball says 1 240 in front and a 240 (if I’m lucky a 380) on the bottom.
The way they mounted the PSU there may be room for a 140 above the PSU or totally rework the plate to move the PSU up(?). Or would the 2 x 280s be enough for a 1055T & possible mobo chip set (1 rad) and 2 x 580s (the other 280)?
Again even if this is a “full tower†things like pump and res need to find home so they can be viewed through my funky window cut out (didn’t want the square, rectangle, or round that seemed to be popular at the time).
In looking at rad locations I’ve come to the conclusion that these old style towers weren’t meant for massive water cooling if any. While the Antec has lots of vertical space it is divided almost equally in half. With this there is no more mobo space in the bottom than a standard small or mid-size tower.
Here is what its chassis currently looks like with the HDD trays removed (see the above entry). Also another lower front view of where a rad would be mounted.
Before bring the case down I for some reason thought I had room for a 360 to 480 or a 420 rad. Boy was my memory bad. Borrowing KestrelFlight’s Magicool 280 shows how limited I am without major rework.
As mention above, the rework would require me to cut through the bottom of case “divider†that functions as the bottom of the bay device area. Being lazy and in a hurry for suggestions I’ve taken an exiting pic and “painted†it to show some ideas.
For the books there is no scale and now that I look at it believe all of the “tops†and the “divider†are a bit low. However I think you will get the idea.
Red = the center brace / divider that runs front to back. Green is the approximate of a 420 (3 x 140) and the yellow is what would happen with 1 x 280 + 1 x 140.
1. If I were to do a single 420, supposedly = to a 460 (4 x 120), I would have to do some major dremeling to allow room for the rad and fans to slip down into the case. Also would be concerned how that would affect any front mounted switches etc.
2. Now if I go with two separate rads the cutting would be at a minimum, but what does that do with the loop resistance wise?
3. As far as air movement the 3.5 and lower 5.25 bay covers could go with the covers that are left over from my KF build as those are “open†with filter material. The major question there would be how much of a blockage the FDD slot area on the bezel would cause?
If I had the time, inclination, and the boss’s approval I would do a little cutting of the bezel in the 3.5 area to open it a bit, but………………
http://forums.pcper.com/showthread.php?t=412001&highlight=celtic+spirit & http://forums.pcper.com/showthread.php?t=436693&page=2&highlight=celtic+spirit
I started with (Factory pic) ……..
Went this far……..
And then became enamored with mATX builds and for some reason lost interest.
Before I go any further let’s do the projected hardware list…..for those that have been following my meanderings will recognize most of if not all of the components. As they have come over from KestrelFlight on air to be water cooled here.
CASE: Antec 1200SX
PSU:Zalman ZM1000-HP Plus
CPU: PII X4 1055T w/ Computer Cuplex Kryos XT
GPU:2 x Evga GTX 580 w/ -FC580 GTX - Nickel / Plexi & Backplate
MEMORY: F3-16000CL9D-4GBTD w/ Zalman ZM-RC1000
HDD 1: Zalman SSD0032S1 32GB SSD (Primary)
HDD 2: WD RaptorX 160GB or V’Raptor 300GB (Misc Apps etc)
HDD 3: 2 x WD1001FALS 1TB (RAID 0 Storage)
Optical Drive 1: TBD
Fan Controller: TBD
Last night I brought it down from the attic, uncovered it and was surprised that while it isn’t the best my initial painting wasn’t as bad as I thought. Initial checking was to see what can be done about mounting rads on the inside. Originally it was slated to have 1 x 92mm plus 2 x 80mm in the front bezel with another 92 + 2 x 80s in the rear. Plus whatever the PSU offered. As I already stated somewhere before, top mount rads are out because of the top window (that was the rage back then).
If I remove all the sheet metal related to the Hdd drive cages I have an approximate 13†vertical space for a rad. If I can cut out the bottom bay divider I might be able to go a bit higher. BUT the 6 5.25 bays need to house a minimum of 3 platter HDD as well as one SSD, fan controller(s), optical drive(s), and another related items. However the one 3.5 and dedicated FDD slot (remember those?) could go by – by. To save time sadly the FDD location will show from the front. A second rad will be bottom mounted, and as I’m looking to use 140s I could be limited there (~13â€). Initial eye ball says 1 240 in front and a 240 (if I’m lucky a 380) on the bottom.
The way they mounted the PSU there may be room for a 140 above the PSU or totally rework the plate to move the PSU up(?). Or would the 2 x 280s be enough for a 1055T & possible mobo chip set (1 rad) and 2 x 580s (the other 280)?
Again even if this is a “full tower†things like pump and res need to find home so they can be viewed through my funky window cut out (didn’t want the square, rectangle, or round that seemed to be popular at the time).
In looking at rad locations I’ve come to the conclusion that these old style towers weren’t meant for massive water cooling if any. While the Antec has lots of vertical space it is divided almost equally in half. With this there is no more mobo space in the bottom than a standard small or mid-size tower.
Here is what its chassis currently looks like with the HDD trays removed (see the above entry). Also another lower front view of where a rad would be mounted.
Before bring the case down I for some reason thought I had room for a 360 to 480 or a 420 rad. Boy was my memory bad. Borrowing KestrelFlight’s Magicool 280 shows how limited I am without major rework.
As mention above, the rework would require me to cut through the bottom of case “divider†that functions as the bottom of the bay device area. Being lazy and in a hurry for suggestions I’ve taken an exiting pic and “painted†it to show some ideas.
For the books there is no scale and now that I look at it believe all of the “tops†and the “divider†are a bit low. However I think you will get the idea.
Red = the center brace / divider that runs front to back. Green is the approximate of a 420 (3 x 140) and the yellow is what would happen with 1 x 280 + 1 x 140.
1. If I were to do a single 420, supposedly = to a 460 (4 x 120), I would have to do some major dremeling to allow room for the rad and fans to slip down into the case. Also would be concerned how that would affect any front mounted switches etc.
2. Now if I go with two separate rads the cutting would be at a minimum, but what does that do with the loop resistance wise?
3. As far as air movement the 3.5 and lower 5.25 bay covers could go with the covers that are left over from my KF build as those are “open†with filter material. The major question there would be how much of a blockage the FDD slot area on the bezel would cause?
If I had the time, inclination, and the boss’s approval I would do a little cutting of the bezel in the 3.5 area to open it a bit, but………………
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Comments
Okay need to move along on this stuff so again asking for advice. As mentioned earlier the two options I’ve come up with are:
1. Cut through the center spacer to allow for a 420 rad (3 x 140) to go with a planned 280 (2 x 140 in the bottom) OR
2. Use a 280 in the bottom half with a 140 up in the lower bay area along with the bottom feeder.
Would love to use one of thermochill’s 420s but wonder just how much interference that center divider and the shape of the two front bezels would cause. Unfortunately thermochill doesn’t make any other 140 rads!
While the 1 x 280 + 1 x 140 looks to be the easiest install what would be lost in running those in series?
For visual reference, here are a couple of pix of the front bezels “as isâ€. If I can get away with it I would not like to do anymore to the bottom one. To me it appears there would be sufficient openings for air flow and I could “glue†the original Celtic 90mm fan grill to the back of the hole.
Some chipset cooling questions (CS & KF v2.0)
I realize that there are various thoughts about cooling chipsets, would like to throw this out for “review and comment†(not flaming LOL).
For bling as well as function like the idea of trying to cool, at a minimum, the NB and Mosfets. Sadly while I can come up with something for the NB (I hope) the Mosfets are another matter. With MSI mobos those can be of more concern than the NB or SB. I saw somewhere someone actually attached the WC blocks directly to the stock coolers (gigabyte mobo I believe) with apparent success. Has anyone here given that a try?? Think I’ve found one or two candidates that might work with the stock aluminum Mosfet cooler. Guess another option would be what I did with DreamCatcher…….cutout the NB cooler for a water block and then positioned a fan directly above the Mosfet cooler. However if I upgrade the mobo anytime soon a replacement stock cooler assembly may not be found! Besides thought the idea of water cooling was to eliminate fans. Especially those under 80mm.
:shakehead
My lack of gray matter is the reason I'm asking questions!!