Who here has D-Tek Radiators and........
......what is your opinion on the finish. Are there dents in the tanks? How does the paint look? Does it look like a quality job? I just returned a Pro Core for a JR120 and thought the Pro Core was kind of "rough looking" but thought I got an exception rather than the rule. Now my JR120 shows up and has dents in the tanks and the paint looks terrible. I am not a happy camper at all!!! I will post pics when I'm no so busy working. Further more the shroud is cheap, flimsy and warped. I am not sure if I really want to install this horrible looking thing in my nice new case but don't really feel lik waiting any longer either, especially after spending the extra money on "Next Day Air" because I want to put all this stuff together and know it will take at least 2 weeks to get it turned around. I'm so bummed!!!
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I still need to figure out if I want to convert the lower front fan to a 120mm and cut the holes for the radiator barbs to go into the case and move the radiator fan to inside the case.
Yes it is the JR-120. Even after opening the bottom fan to a 120mm I can't get enough airflow to put the radiator in the front.
UPDATE:
After placing a temperature probe in different areas of the radiator full of warm water and pulling the air through it with the DTek shroud that is only .6" deep there is a drastic difference in temps from spot to spot on the rear surface of the radiator along with a lot of noise. I just finished building a new shroud out of plexiglass that is 1.5" deep and will be mounting the assembly inside the rear 120mm hole with the fan on the outside (pics to follow). I finally have just about everything ready to go and just need a day to get it together and test it then power up.
Matt
Two things are in play right now and starting to come together.
1. I am not in a big hurry to mod the visable aspects of my new $160.00 case (PSU not incl.). At least for now.
2. The blow hole at the top is out because that would put my rad almost exactly 12" above my CPU/ 14" above NB ion this big case. If you look at the above pics with my current layout (except the rad wil now be in the case) everything is just about level and will give me the best flow rate with minimal head loss. I have even figured that if I go with rad > CPU > VPU > NB I will have no sharp bends in my lines as opposed to rad > CPU > NB > VPU.
Larry, I see what you're talking about...I'm so used to my Exos sitting ontop of my case that I never have stopped to consider the hit it's taking from pushing the water that far.
Mac,
I have some weather-sealer I plan on putting between the fan and shroud and the shroud and radiator. Am I correct in my order of; rad > CPU > VPU > NB so that I will have no sharp bends??? Do you have any other ideas or suggestions??? I am ordering a VPU block tonight, not sure which but it will have 1/2" fittings.
Edit//, i see now that you have a shroud. Good man.
Here's how mine looks.
Great work and good ideas! Your plan along with a post from Media Man earlier has sparked a thought for the next round.
Mac
Won't those adapters bottleneck me since I have taken pains to keep with 1/2" ID tubing and 1/2" barbs on all my components or am I bein too anal??? Also, I thought you didn't like the side mounted barbs as they get in the way of ram sinks on vid cards???
Here are some pics of the shroud I made. I need to get to the store and get some screws to mount it all together. All the hard work and modding are done!
Good luck with everything.
I have my sequence as:
Rad > CPU & NB in parallell ( line is split with Y adapter and water runs through NB and CPU atthe same time, then to GPU. I have read info that shows better cooling through the entire system by doing this ( a couple of degrees). As they say, a picture is worth a thousand words.
What Trash is saying about the parallell loop is very correct but it's a little more PITA to setup.
I also have the same reservoir Trash80 has and was thinking of using a single line off a single "T" on the suction side like on a car's cooling system to eliminate pushing my loop any farther. I know this will mean a more tedious fill and bleed procedure but think it will be worth it in the end.
I spend more on lunch each day than I did on the res I got and it looks good so I got it. If you can't tell I'm into looking good too! I just started tearing my system apart and getting ready to move it into the new case. My GPU block should be here by Thursday and it looks like work will be rained out for the rest of the week. That means less money but I will get some time to do some things including getting this finished. I also changed my mind and decided to do one more mod. I am going to cut a hole in the mobo tray to be able to get at the back of the board in the socket/ NB area in case I need to work on anything.
Or perhaps a Prometeia?
Oh no!!! I'm already in enough trouble for doing what I'm doing now. My wife won't mind as much when she doesn't hear my computer anymore though.
Mine showed up dented and the paint wasn't all that great, but I repainted it with a really nice metallic blue (filled in the fins a bit too which looks a tad cleaner) and just backed all the edges of the shroud and fan with automotive foam tape. Clean and no vibration at all.
The dents were on the top of the chambers for the barbs, but in my custom built enclosure mounted under my Lian Li, you can't see them anyways, so that wasn't a big deal for me.
Even though Mackanz isn't a fan of reservoirs, I like them if you have enough room in your case for them. It gives you a little extra water in the system for good measure so that you don't have to keep such a close eye on the water level to take care of losses due to evaporation or a weeping seal on the pump. I mounted my reservoir in the top front of my sx1240 behind the top 2 5 1/4 drive covers and extended a 1/2" brass nipple up through a hole cut in the top of the case with a 1/2" knockout cutter and capped it with a threaded brass 1/2" end cap with a 1/32" breather hole drilled in the center of the cap. My pump is mounted on top of my psu, which makes it extremely important for me to use a very good quality pump to minimise leakage problems from the seals, which is why I went with the Eheim 1250. Mounting like this eliminates most of the pressure loss due to height as most of the components are lower in the case than the pump suction, which is only about 1/2" lower than the reservoir.
I also used a Y type setup to feed each individual proc on my dually rig; it's a little bit of a PITA to set it up right but it was by far my best option for my dual rig. Larry, I would recommend that you Y the feed to the nb and gpu separately from the proc for most efficient cooling so that they aren't taking the heat from the proc's cooling water.