Hooking up a Guitar AMP to Computer
A couple of years ago I bought a fender squire strat that came with an amp. I'm not very musically "able" so I sold the guitar but kept the amp for a couple months after. I believe it was a 15W amp. The reason i kept it was basically to ponder weither or not I could hook it up to my comp (which was absolutely horrible at the time)
Now, I have a better computer and I'm hell bent on destorying my ear drums. So has anyone ever hooked up an amp to cpu and know what it involves?? I'm very interested in picking up one again and having ear shattering sound :bigggrin:
p.s. I've read a couple articles online and a few of them deal with splicing wires from a secondary fan cpu to hook it up. I'm not too keen on doing that until I get a second opinion.
Now, I have a better computer and I'm hell bent on destorying my ear drums. So has anyone ever hooked up an amp to cpu and know what it involves?? I'm very interested in picking up one again and having ear shattering sound :bigggrin:
p.s. I've read a couple articles online and a few of them deal with splicing wires from a secondary fan cpu to hook it up. I'm not too keen on doing that until I get a second opinion.
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Ideally yes, but if i'm going to this extent to hook up a killer sound system I want to make sure nothing in lost in transition. Especially the bass and how dynamic the sound is on an amp. Would this set up accomplish this?
Also, what's a good sound card for this process? I know for a fact i'd loose sound quality with the default card in my computer....
More like stero boom in a 10x10 foot bedroom with 5'11 foot ceiling
If you get good results, I've got a smallish guitar amp in my bedroom that I suppose could get hooked up to my laptop.
I'm hoping I can make the drop ceiling move when the amp gets hooked up
...There are exactly 4,732 ways to do this and I've seen about 30
Seriously, you could research this forever and still not come up with the perfect solution.
Near perfect signal chain would be as such:
P.C. audio->Line out->Mixer->Amplification.
You have to consider the amp as well as what you're pumping into it. I run a Delta 1010LT card into an external mixer and drive all of my audio gear from that. What you lose in translation all depends on what you're sending the signal to, and what type of signal you're using. If you use the line level signal, you won't lose any signal information until it gets to whatever output device you're using; home stereo, guitar amp, bass amp, etc, that's where your tone shaping is going to take place. If you run it from the speaker out you'll get totally different results. Play around with both methods and see what sounds best to you BEFORE you go out and spend any money. You may be able to get the exact results that you're after with your existing equipment.
Good luck, and have fun!
You crank up on the gain you lose clarity and so on. So if loud is what you want it'll work great. If good crisp sound is your goal your not going to find it. That being said. There are still times when I use it that way, when just loud is the goal.
He's right ya know. You'd have a lot better luck if you hooked it up to a full range amp. A keyboard amp would be great, or your stereo receiver.
Also, I have 4 classic stero speakers laying around [2 with classic wires w/ no attachment, and 2 with classic wires AND the attachment]. How would hooking those up work?? Because in all honesty if I could get those hooked up for now then it would prob save me a fair ammount of $$$...
Anyone have experience in this catagory? As far as where to put the "spliced" wires for 5.1 surround sound?
Splicing won't work. It's the same as splicing a cable signal. Every splice degrades the original signal and splicing it won't create a left/right/front/back split. It'll just be the same signal from each satellite speaker.
If you had an X.1 system that used a seperate mixer to send the signal to the sub you could use the guitar amp as a sub. However most x.1 systems that I've ever seen the amp is built into the sub itself and you just connect the other satellite speakers to it. You can't seperate the sub out of the mix.
Basically you'd have to get a proper mixing board/amp setup. You run the audio into it then use it to mix your channels for left/right/front/back and sub.
Guitar and bass guitar amps are designed to amplify those instruments and you wont get a great quality sound. Also 15amps is not that large. My advice would be to sell the amp and with the cash buy a 5.1 system. you can prob get a 20 to 30 watt system for what you would make on your amp.
alternatively if you are looking at it as a project you could use the speaker and replace the amp with a propper av amp.
For 25$...good deal?
This is what I have at home
Its nothing fancy but it does give a nice sound and if you crank it up it certainly bugs the neighbours! lol
Here are a few other sugestions
http://www.pcworld.co.uk/martprd/store/pcw_page.jsp?BV_SessionID=@@@@0481190294.1222478488@@@@&BV_EngineID=ccegadeffgdldehcflgceggdhhmdgml.0&page=Product&fm=null&sm=null&tm=null&sku=006220&category_oid=
http://www.pcworld.co.uk/martprd/store/pcw_page.jsp?BV_SessionID=@@@@0481190294.1222478488@@@@&BV_EngineID=ccegadeffgdldehcflgceggdhhmdgml.0&page=Product&fm=null&sm=null&tm=null&sku=034527&category_oid=
I pretty much have this set of speakers without the remote url]http://www.logitech.com/index.cfm/speakers_audio/home_pc_speakers/devices/231&cl=us,en[/url
and yes, it's another guitar amp. In all honesty im doing this because I need a "project" and im going stir crazy not having one LOL
I know what you mean. Thing is guitar amps are meant for amplifying guitars. The frequeny response and general sound quality is not good enough for general audio purposes.
What I would recomend taking it apart and getting the spec for the individual components that way you know what is usable and what isn't. feel free to post them on here.
My plan after hearing some suggestions on here was to get the amp and wait on getting a mixer until some more money flows my way. That way I could actually set it up so the bass comes out of the amp with a bit of help from the subwoofer [without having to splice like a maniac]. Then using my original speakers for surround sound
Second, hooking an amp up to the computer is very easy as long as the amp has a built in pre-amp. All you need is a 1/8"-1/4" converter. That simple. But don't expect it to sound very musical. It'll most likely have an airy sound to it. Also, why do you want a mixer? Every time you put something between the source and the destination the signal levels get lowered a little (circuits aren't 100% efficient) and also distorted a little (raises the SNR).
Also, separating a stereo cable into individual mono channels is very easy. The cables are three conductor normally. They will have a common ground and then the other two wires are left and right.
But in short I wouldn't recommend guitar amps for a pet stereo project. If you want something that will get loud then look at building your own speakers. I've built a few sets, both for PA and home listening. You can build a very high quality set of speakers for not a whole lot of money. I would recommend a two way passive set for your first project. If you get some $10-$15 12" drivers and a $5-$10 horn loaded tweeter it will blow your ear drums out for not a lot of money. After that all you need is an amplifier. Don't worry about power levels too much, as a quality 40watt amp is much better than an over rated 100 watt amp. It has to do with SNR and THD, but I won't get into that. And besides, to increase sound output 10% you have to double power (in a perfect situation)
But anyway, do what you want but I'd highly recommend selling the amps and trying something else. Whether it's buying a ready to go system from a big box store or breaking out the MDF and table saw. But if you want more information on speaker building I'm fairly competent and can answer any questions you have about that or PA systems in general. I essentially designed and installed the one in my church and ran it for two years. So I knew the ins and outs of them.
btw, I'm running a set of klipsch speakers which are some of the best ready builts I've ever heard that didn't cost a months paycheck. I'm pretty picky when it comes to music and sound so I couldn't deal with the logitech set cause it didn't have tweeters. I'm an audiophile for the most part, but don't see the sense in dropping copious amounts of money on a negligible improvement on sound. I have $3 grand of car stereo components sitting in my room at home that I refuse to install in my jeep because it would sound horrible. Not to mention I plan on getting rid of it this summer so I'd just have to rip it all back out.
Just to elaborate on airborn's post, SNR stands for signal to noise ratio. This is generally how much noise (non source) is generated by the equipment you are using. An example would be a noticeable hiss at a high volume.
THD stands for total harmonic distortion. THD is an equation where the sum of the powers of all harmonic components to the power of the Fundamental frequency is calculated. Wikipedia can shed more light on those equations. Essentially a low THD will make what ever you are trying to listen to sound like what you are trying to listen to.
So when looking for a decent set of speakers, be it a 20 dollar set, or a 2000 dollar set you can use basic knowledge to pick out what would be good and what won't. I know when I look at speakers there are sever things I generally try to check on to see if they meet my approval.
1. Frequency Response. This term denotes to range of sounds produced by a speaker. The human ear can roughly hear from 25 hertz to about 19 hertz. Some people can hear a broader spectrum of sound, but I find those numbers to be average. So a set of speakers that have a frequency response of 40 hertz to 19 hertz will generally have a decent sound.
2. THD. I went over the basics of THD so I won't go into it again. A lower THD the better. I stay away from anything with a .2% THD and higher.
3. Wattage. This area of sound causes so much confusion it is ridiculous. On many speaker packages you will see something outrageous like "700 WATTS of POWER!" Sure, that set might be able to play a 1khz tone for 1 second, but for continuous play, it will most likely be 25 watts a channel. So when looking for a speaker set, look for the RMS rating of the continuous playback rating in watts. Also remeber that a high wattage does not always mean a higher SPL (sound pressure level). Depending on the design of a speakers cabinet a 25 watt quality speaker can be louder than a 50 watt crapo speaker. Generally anything PC related is going to be in the 12 to 25 watt range, which is more than ample.
4. Speaker sensitivity. Speaker sensitivity will generally be given as a SPL measurement taken at 1 meter on axis with a 2.83 volt input (1 watt @ 8 ohms). The higher the SPL, the more sensitive/efficient the speaker is generally speaking. A 90 to 98dB sensitivity is generally acceptable. This was taken from a sound engineering basics book I have.
So to recap you want a pretty board frequency response, low THD, decent RMS wattage, and a higher sensitivity. Hopefully this will aid you in your quest for what ever type of sound you want to get from your speakers, be it loud and bad, softer and good, or any other combination you can think of with those for words.