Most new receivers have HDMI in, so there is no need for SPDIF optical or coax if you run HDMI from video card to receiver, and then output video to TV
Using you video card as your soundcard also eliminates the need for multiple cables
Another note: 802.11n is more than sufficient to stream even Blu-ray content, as its practical bandwidth is 2-3x the highest available bitrates with this media. In some respects, 11n wireless was designed to enable HD streaming. The WiFi Alliance is using it as the base standard for the open standard for wireless HD.
As for what GPUs are recommended, they should really be picked based on their specific DXVA capabilities, rather than a generation.
For AMD:
UVD 2, 2.2 and 3.0 are sufficient for high-def content (VC-1, H.264, MPEG2). UVD3 adds support for MPEG-4 Part 2 (Xvid and DivX) and MVC (Blu-ray 3D).
Suggested targets are UVD 2.2 and UVD 3.0.
For NVIDIA:
PureVideo 3, 4 and 5 are also sufficient for high-def content (again VC-1, H.264, MPEG2). VP4 adds support for MPEG-4 Part 2 (Xvid/DivX) and MVC (Blu-ray 3D).
Suggested targets are PureVideo 4 or PureVideo 5.
Confirming your DXVA support by the specific hardware decoder version is easier than picking a card because, as in the case of NVIDIA, a new generation of PureVideo was not synchronized with a new generation of hardware. This has lead to mixed VP versions within the same product stack.
And to confirm what Greg said, an SPDIF connection is only required if your receiver or TV does not support HDMI. Both NVIDIA and AMD GPUs support 7.1 Dolby TrueHD or DTS-MA passthrough to a compatible receiver. If you have a WiFi HTPC, that's the only cable you need beyond power.
Thanks for clarifying all of this, I actually don't really have any newer home theater equipment to base this article from. My receiver does not have an HDMI input.
To jump on the clarification comment bandwagon: if you get a universal remote for your HTPC (such as the Logitech Harmony line), you will also need to get a consumer infrared receiver. A select few cases come with ones built in, otherwise you would need to get an external one. A decent IR receiver seems to be hard to find though... or so my on and off hunting would suggest.
Then, if you really want to, I'm sure you could replace the remote part with something like a Logitech Harmony.
I disagree. Say you have a touch-screen Android or iPhone. What can't you do with RemoteDroid or Air Mouse Pro that you can do with any of those remotes? Not to mention that some of them require purchasing an IR receiver, which isn't necessary because these programs use the wireless connection you already have.
The point of this article is to say that most people can use their last gen PC as an HTPC without having to buy anything. Use what you have first, and make that work for you, then purchase extras if you want more convenience.
HDMI, VGA and DVI, this video card has all three digital video connections
VGA= analog
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KwitkoSheriff of Banning (Retired)By the thing near the stuffIcrontian
edited November 2011
I started building an XBMC HTPC out of old parts, but I keep coming across this odd problem where the machine won't POST. I fixed it a while back by pulling the CMOS battery. Now the problem is back. Pulled the CMOS. No luck this time. Meh, maybe I'll buck up for a new motherboard.
I can't wait to get it up and running. Some of the XBMC plugins are amazing, like the one that automatically downloads your favorite TV shows.
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Straight_ManGeeky, in my own wayNaples, FLIcrontian
edited November 2011
Um, you might try a brand-new CMOS battery charged 24 hours in HTPC for a cheaper way out.
Even cheaper than that MIGHT be to leave your HTPC with battery in running 24 hours. Then pull it and put it back in, keep machine from fully booting by entering BIOS ASAP as boot process continues, then reset BIOS to what you want or what it sets itself to if previous trick of pulling CMOS was not followed by customizing settings( since pulling it alone did not work, it is likely that the CMOS battery is dead as to charge, but also true is that many older CMOS batteries are rechargeable and thus may not even need replacing).
Brevity causes compaction of idea flow, ask about anything you do not understand please. Good luck Seth
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Mt_GoatHead Cheezy KnobPflugerville (north of Austin)Icrontian
edited November 2011
There are other options for remotes available. You can add a tuner card, I recomend Hauppauge as far as a name goes. Many of these come with a decent remote and the ever elusive IR receiver. This option can be had for as low as $50. You can also use the IR receiver with other remotes if you like. On the other end you could go with something like the Logitech diNovo Mini, which is what I use. It can give you control of not only media controls but also complete control of your PC. It can come in handy for locating items in a library by using the letter keys for indexing movies saved to disc.
Except the first generation Apple TV has numerous issues playing HD content. The GeForce 7300 Go is not a shining example of multimedia readiness, and also does not support multi-channel audio passthrough over HDMI.
I find it funny that everyone is posting 'add this' or 'buy that remote', when you can just get a 1st gen Apple TV (modded) for under $100 bucks and run all this crap without any more investment, plus you get a remote with it, and bluetooth keyboards work well for web browsing. There is a ton of stuff for the 1st gen Apple TV, and it works just fine for hacked airplay too! Just suggesting an option here to an old pc that you would have to waste time on.
You totally missed the point of this article. This is for people who are building new gaming PCs to play some of these next gen games like Battlefield 3 and Modern Warfare 3. That's $100 you don't have to spend if you already have the equipment you need. The inferior nature of an Apple TV device non-withstanding.
I've used Hauppage for about 5 years now. I'm on my 2nd tuner card. I upgraded to get a digital tuner. the card and the remote have worked daily and flawlessly. for years. I'm using a Q6600 and an infocus projector to put HD on the wall about 12 ft wide, with 5.1 surround. Phat Boi, TV..
My first tuner card was Hauppauge and I would continue to but their products if I had TV. The only thing I could see myself using it for at this point is to watch sports and be able to pause and rewind.
On the subject of tuner cards, I had a Hauppauge for my laptop that worked well, but had some lag between the video stream and the display on screen. Even using VLC to get the stream directly I could only get down to about a 0.5 second lag. Do they have cards that are instantaneous, or close enough to play games?
djmeph
Detroit Icrontian
Comments
DVI|VGA handle 1080p just fine.
Most new receivers have HDMI in, so there is no need for SPDIF optical or coax if you run HDMI from video card to receiver, and then output video to TV
Using you video card as your soundcard also eliminates the need for multiple cables
Also, last time I tried, digital audio over hdmi in linux would never do more than 2.0. 5.1 worked fine when I picked up an asus xonar card.
As for what GPUs are recommended, they should really be picked based on their specific DXVA capabilities, rather than a generation.
For AMD:
UVD 2, 2.2 and 3.0 are sufficient for high-def content (VC-1, H.264, MPEG2). UVD3 adds support for MPEG-4 Part 2 (Xvid and DivX) and MVC (Blu-ray 3D).
Suggested targets are UVD 2.2 and UVD 3.0.
For NVIDIA:
PureVideo 3, 4 and 5 are also sufficient for high-def content (again VC-1, H.264, MPEG2). VP4 adds support for MPEG-4 Part 2 (Xvid/DivX) and MVC (Blu-ray 3D).
Suggested targets are PureVideo 4 or PureVideo 5.
Confirming your DXVA support by the specific hardware decoder version is easier than picking a card because, as in the case of NVIDIA, a new generation of PureVideo was not synchronized with a new generation of hardware. This has lead to mixed VP versions within the same product stack.
And to confirm what Greg said, an SPDIF connection is only required if your receiver or TV does not support HDMI. Both NVIDIA and AMD GPUs support 7.1 Dolby TrueHD or DTS-MA passthrough to a compatible receiver. If you have a WiFi HTPC, that's the only cable you need beyond power.
Then, if you really want to, I'm sure you could replace the remote part with something like a Logitech Harmony.
I disagree. Say you have a touch-screen Android or iPhone. What can't you do with RemoteDroid or Air Mouse Pro that you can do with any of those remotes? Not to mention that some of them require purchasing an IR receiver, which isn't necessary because these programs use the wireless connection you already have.
The point of this article is to say that most people can use their last gen PC as an HTPC without having to buy anything. Use what you have first, and make that work for you, then purchase extras if you want more convenience.
VGA= analog
I can't wait to get it up and running. Some of the XBMC plugins are amazing, like the one that automatically downloads your favorite TV shows.
Even cheaper than that MIGHT be to leave your HTPC with battery in running 24 hours. Then pull it and put it back in, keep machine from fully booting by entering BIOS ASAP as boot process continues, then reset BIOS to what you want or what it sets itself to if previous trick of pulling CMOS was not followed by customizing settings( since pulling it alone did not work, it is likely that the CMOS battery is dead as to charge, but also true is that many older CMOS batteries are rechargeable and thus may not even need replacing).
Brevity causes compaction of idea flow, ask about anything you do not understand please. Good luck Seth
Um, I already tried a brand new battery. No dice, unfortunately. The other problem is it won't POST, so I can't get to BIOS.
Going to try again tonight. I want to cry.
Basically, it sucks.
You totally missed the point of this article. This is for people who are building new gaming PCs to play some of these next gen games like Battlefield 3 and Modern Warfare 3. That's $100 you don't have to spend if you already have the equipment you need. The inferior nature of an Apple TV device non-withstanding.