If geeks love it, we’re on it
You found the friendliest gaming & tech geeks around. Say hello!
I've just built my ESD cable and set the DAS software.
My monitor is a sony cpd 520g.
Its image was too green, G2 was 163, i've changed to 120, the difference is great, but the green is yet strong.
Many thanks for the information here.
Sorry the poor English.
What should the default orthogonality setting be on HP p1110? Im running it at 1600x1200 75hz. My two year old son keeps playing with the controls and putting it off the setting. My current orthogonality value is 55 but im not sure it looks correct.
I too have a Dell P1110 with excessive brightness. I bought the ECS circuit and installed the DAS software but I am having a problem loading the parameters values after opening the Viewer under Help ->Expert. The left side Viewer List appears but the right side which should show the parameters is blank. Any ideas?
Okay, so I have installed Windas and patched it... for a minuet there I wasn't even able to get windas to attempt to connect to the monitor, but that problem seems to have gone away... it may return if this problem is solved, however. I have the RS232 <> TTL cable which I ordered on ebay. The problem is, any time I connect the cable to my Dell P1110 one of two things happens. Either Windas tells me it cannot connect to the monitor, or the monitor will not turn on, that is, the green light goes amber. I assume when the cable is connected correctly, the light goes amber and I cannot see the screen. Amazingly frustrating... can someone please offer some suggestions on how to get the cable connected AND access windas to fix the brightness on this monitor, while actually being able to see the screen?!
Make sure you monitor is connected to a computer through the data cable and everything will work. I has the same problem
the pinout is like that (from the Dell service manual scematics) :
Tx - will be at 5V when monitor is working
Rx - will be at 0V
Vcc - is the %v supply to the circuit.
Gnd - 0V.
there are only 2 options to connect the cable try them both while the screen is on and recieving data. ( I mean there is something on screen your desktop or whatever).
I screwed up my HP p1110 by hitting the initialize EEprom control in the service menu. Now Iv not got a clue how to get it back to where it was. Everything setting was wiped. The color is completely off now!. Im assuming you can control everything in the service menu that u can do in windas so is there a default set of values i could use to get it back to standard picture and then adjust it from their? Also since iv screwed up the p1110 I picked up a NEC Multisync FE1259 in what looks like immaculate condition for the sum of £15. Anybody know anything about these? its a Diamondtron tube and looks very bright and vibrant colors but the lower right seems blurry. anybody got any idea how to fix this?
I was messing with the service mode on my HP1110 trying to adjust the geometry as I just couldn't get it to look perfectly square. Anyway I pressed the initialize eeprom button by mistake and it reset everything back to factory defaults! And now I cant get it back to the way it was! I don't know how calibrate it. Im not going to go to the expense of getting a color meter or anything like that. Is there a default set of settings or anything that I could use to get it back to the standard as if it just came out of its box? I know how good this monitor can look dam!
Also I just purchased a NEC Multisync FE1250 for £15 In what seem great condition. I just bought it due to the price and what happened to my p1110. Do you know anything about this monitor?
Its a good monitor very bright and vibrant looking but i noticed that the focus seems to be a little poor at the lower right where the little icon tray is. The icon color seems blurred a little. Do you know if this is a focus issue or just an aging problem or the fact that its simply inferior to the p1110?
The monitor has loads of controls but none seem to have any effect on this! I can also access the service menu but I can see no obvious focus control, I wouldn't know where to begin!
Any advice will be appreciated mate!
P991 DELL SONY: what is the correct procedure for setting black level on the p1110 assuming everything is working normally?. I tried moving the vertical centering down so that there is a black space at the top of the screen then displaying a black picture then adjusting the brightness down until it blends in but this results in loosing too much detail in photos where I know you can see more.
The geometry is all off the setting also, I dont think Im going to be able to set it correctly. Its gonna need someone with a signal generator and the rest of the equipment. Unless somebody with a good monitor is willing to tell me what each of the following is set too on their monitor?
mine is the following:
HP P1110 1600 x 1200
raster: 127 49%
width 146 57%
horizontal centering: 74 58%
height: 89 70%
vertical centering: 63 49%
Pincushion: 42 33%
Pincushion balance: 63 49%
Trapezoid: 63 49%
Orthogonality: 63 49%
S correction: 13 10%
C correction: 39 30%
E/W corner: 65 51%
Tilt 127 49%
Vertical Dynamic focus: 63 49%
Min contrast: 50 62%
max contrast: 255 100%
G2 49 19%
Red Black level: 14 5%
Green black level: 13 5%
Blue black level: 25 3%
Red amp: 131 51%
Green amp: 112 42%
Blue amp: 130 39%
BCL adjust: 127 49%
Vertical conv 127 49%
Horizontal conv 127 49%
Moire 0 0%
Top and bottom edges 127 49%
top right corner 127 49%
bottom right corner 127 49%
top left corner 127 49%
bottom left corner 123 49%
BL Correction : ON
Save BL input value
BL input 44%
memory settings submenu
custom color: 1
DDC : INT. (ST7275)
INT Burn in test
Just wanted to say a big Thanks to everyone who contibuted here. My Dell p1110 looks great now. I decided to go with the WinDas solution - bought the components from nck electronics (?) mentioned on P991's how-to site. Total of $10 US shipped. Soldered the pieces together and found an old cd cable and plugged it in.
Well. .. . it wasn't exactly that easy. the cable I had, even though it had 4 wires didn't work I kept getting that "can't connect check cable and bus" error so I stipped all the insulation off and found that the 2 center pins (both black) were actually connected to each other and I was connecting Rx (or Tx) to Grnd with out realizing it. I found a different cable and then it worked (after I switched the Rx-Tx.
After that all went smoothly.
Until I reduced the G2 below 100 then My monitor went black and did not power back on.
I plugged in a different monitor to the PC and since it couldn't be read at the dell's settings I had to reboot my computer. Now I had one monitor hooked to my PC and the dell still connected via ECS/serial port.
I started Windas and tried to reload the .dat file with the G2=90 and I saw the error screen that came up (couldn't see it the first time since the monitor blacked out). I then figured out (as some one posted earlier) that you cannot change a value from 3 digits to 2 digits. So, in order to use G2 less than 100 you must enter 090 instead of just 90 in the .dat file
I also came across the locked OSD at one point but found the solution to that in here as well (Thanks again P991) which was to make sure you exit Windas properly and cycle power on your monitor before you tough any of the front panel buttons.
One question for P991_DELL_Sony, (well actually two):
1. Why do you now think the WinDas solution is not neccessary? Are you thinking the HV varistor is a better choice now? Can it be located on all the monitors spoken of here?
2. Have you got more info on Windas and the other adjustments - You have mentioned a number of times about adding it to your how-to but I only see the main page with 4 links at the bottom - not too much on changing other settings.
This is the page I found the How-to at:
www dot geocities dot com / gregua / windas/
I think I read that people are having problems getting the brightness & contrast balance right. I suspect the reason may be related to the fact that CRT phosphor only has a limited lifespan - a generalisation is that after 10,000 hours use peak luminance will be approx 1/2 the level it was for a new monitor. By 30,000 hrs the monitor may be totally unusable.
It does vary by monitor model and the type of phosphor used - I don't think you can even generalise Trinitrons into a single estimated lifespan either. Indeed $40K+ colour accurate broadcast grading monitors may have a warranty in hours much much shorter than a more robust (& less colour accurate) corporate office monitor.
My CPD-G500 monitor is from Jan 2001 and I blagged it from Sony Computer Entertainment while I worked there. Now this monitor of mine has seen many years of use, so while I'm messing with the brightness & contrast I'm not sure if I will ever get it restored to quote the right level.
I know some of the artists in my old dev studio leave their monitors on 24/7 to avoid the warm up period i.e. that's approx 8500 hous used per year and in 2-3 years the CRT could be effectively worn out - impossible to ever again get high contrast & good colour!
Right now my blacks are just short of being black, whites are a little grey, detail is a bit lacking in dark areas (as if the gamma is messed up) & I don't seem to have quite the vibrancy & contrast compared to my Sony 21" CRT television. If you have any thoughts on this or remember any posts in the thread that may be useful let me know.
Also I've been trying to get hold of a couple of FW900 widescreen CRTs and may be able to get one from a reseller who does refurb work in the UK. If I do buy from them I will ask if they have any tips about getting the contrast balance right - can't promise anything on this, I guess their willingness to help will depend on wether I decide to buy from them or not...
P991 DELL SONY wrote:
Hmm, this usuallly happens to people who do the resistor mod. Interesting that it happens on un-touched monitors.
See if you can find differences between a normal monitors .dat and a 'slow warmup' monitors dat. I doubt there is a warmup setting, but it's worth a look. Maybe it's one of the un-named REG* settings. Backup the .dat of a slow warmup one, then load in the .dat of a normal one, things will look screwy, but maybe it fixes the slow warmup problem. Who knows. If it does, narrow down to what value made the difference.
You may also want to confirm that the resistors in the G2 circuit are all within specs, just to completely rule out any hardware issues.
Goodluck, and be sure to let us know of a solution if you find it.
Icrontic — Home of the Big Beef Burrito since 8-8-2000, fool.
A Short-Media community © 2003–2014.
Powered with <3 from Vanilla & WordPress.