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DELL P1110 monitor too bright

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  • edited Jun 2006
    Allright, i took it apart and tried adjusting the focus, thing is, whenever the middle is perfect, the top is hazy and vice versa. BTW i also turned the zoom to 0 and reset all settings besides width and height. Wtf is wrong with this thing lol.

    Thanks,
    _Dan
  • edited Jun 2006
    When you set the color output to lower values did this improve the haziness at all?

    Did the focus adjustment improve the overall picture(although the top was fuzzy) from how it was before the adjustment?
  • edited Jun 2006
    I guess a lil bit, the gain is pretty high by default. The bias is at 50 for all levels others are 80's. Where should they be? In terms of the overall picture, it was completeley fine besides the top and bottom. Now i have the top and bottom looking nice and the middle is ****ty lol. I cant win.

    By the way you have been hella helpful, i really appreciate it.
    _Dan
  • edited Jun 2006
    No probs mate, I started getting drawn into the world of P1110's and their many problems when i got a couple for my work.

    I went for these instead of lcds because i prefer the colour reproduction,Resolution and response time(no ghosting in games unlike lcds).They are great value monitors when alot of people throw them out because of the overbright(G2)problem. Picked these 2 up for £40 and sorted them out with windas.

    I would recommend shopping around for another one that has good to reasonable convergence(number one) with a brightness problem (number two)
    This way you should get it cheap and get another shot at getting one of these working great. Ideally try to get one thats as young as possible with good convergeance as you can sort most other problems with windas.

    The P1110 does not have DCNV(Dynamic convergeance) where you can adjust every inch of the screen which is such a shame......but your 19" p991 does have this fuction in windas(my little bro has one of these that i sorted).

    I would still have my 2 P1110's until i got hold of a 24" Sony GDM FW900(small
    fortune and rare in the uk) which i just love because it has DNCV and supports such high resolutions. Its perfect for graphic work and takes up less space than the 2 dells, but the P1110 has to be one of the best value/performance monitors out there and i am sure there are loads out there
    in America.

    I would definately make the cable up but i would try and get the monitor in reasonable shape(some people will not notice that fuzziness that you or i may notice depends how bad it is i guess) and ebay it as sold as seen.

    Its going to cost you way more to replace parts or get it serviced/repaired than to get another monitor.

    R:cheers: SS
  • edited Jun 2006
    OMFG i looked up that monitor, I WANT IT ::drools:: lol. U think there is a way to fix this whore i have here? What were the gain and bias values you were talking about, whats a reccomended level?
  • edited Jun 2006
    I would definately make the cable up but i would try and get the monitor in reasonable shape(some people will not notice that fuzziness that you or i may notice depends how bad it is i guess) and ebay it as sold as seen.

    Its going to cost you way more to replace parts or get it serviced/repaired than to get another monitor.

    Personally i dont have the skills to sort this without seeing it in front of me Sorry

    EDIT:The values sound about right, No doubt there will be someone else in the thread that has come across this problem
  • edited Jun 2006
    KK, how can i determine the default values if i get it to work with windas?
  • edited Jun 2006
    There isnt really a recommended value as all cathode ray tubes are ever so slightly different from one another(even if they are identical tubes)so to get the right colour calibrated you need a colorimeter that will alow you to calibrate the right settings at different color temperatures.

    Thats why if you cant mix dat files because each monitor will have its own unique settings acording to that particular tube(hope i didnt bore anyone to death yet)
  • edited Jun 2006
    (write down all your colour settings in the osd) Make a backup of your current settings in windas then go to easy settings and use colour restore function.

    This should reset the color to how the white balence was calibrated in the factory. But as your monitor gets older it may need to be adjusted slightly.


    EDIT: Just had a thought, If i can remmember what you said before your convergence was acting in the same way as the fuziness. Perhaps the deflection yoke needs adjusting. I wouldnt do this yourself i would ask a repair shop to quote you for adjustment.
  • edited Jun 2006
    Ross wrote:
    (write down all your colour settings in the osd) Make a backup of your current settings in windas then go to easy settings and use colour restore function.

    This should reset the color to how the white balence was calibrated in the factory. But as your monitor gets older it may need to be adjusted slightly.


    EDIT: Just had a thought, If i can remmember what you said before your convergence was acting in the same way as the fuziness. Perhaps the deflection yoke needs adjusting. I wouldnt do this yourself i would ask a repair shop to quote you for adjustment.

    I have the service manual, is the yoke one of those plastic tabs that look like they can be moved side to side at the back end of the tube?
  • edited Jun 2006
    IHOD2006 wrote:
    I have the service manual, is the yoke one of those plastic tabs that look like they can be moved side to side at the back end of the tube?

    nope,these 3 sets of rings are for convergence and the 4th set are for purity adjustment. Dont mess with these.

    The yoke is on the neck of the tube towards the front.
  • edited Jun 2006
    Ross wrote:
    nope,these 3 sets of rings are for convergence and the 4th set are for purity adjustment. Dont mess with these.

    The yoke is on the neck of the tube towards the front.

    Is it one of those things, i can never ever get it back to normal if i do or?
  • edited Jun 2006
    IHOD2006 wrote:
    Is it one of those things, i can never ever get it back to normal if i do or?

    They are set at the factory and are rough convergence settings which are then tuned up in windas. They will have some type of sealant or glue that keeps them in place. Adjusting these will not improve the fuziness.

    R:bigggrin: SS
  • edited Jun 2006
    Ross wrote:
    They are set at the factory and are rough convergence settings which are then tuned up in windas. They will have some type of sealant or glue that keeps them in place. Adjusting these will not improve the fuziness.

    R:bigggrin: SS


    Yea i saw those. Im going to take the rest of it apart Monday to see if there is another anode and flyback trans. Ill let you know how it goes....

    _Dan
  • edited Jul 2006
    Hey Ross,

    I fianlly managed to do the resistor mod but the damn monitor is too dark now lol. I can barely see it, so im going to remove a resistor. I used a 2.1mohm and 3 1mohm's (radioshack doesnt have the best selection). Funny thing though, when i took off the rf shielding on the back, there was a 2.1mohm resistor already soldered in but at different points. It went from where the circuit board says G2 all the way to the ground pin. I cant figure this one out, i removed it though because the one on the hutzelman site didnt have that resistor pictured. Maybe thats what Microcenter meant when they sold it as "reman" lol. Any advice?

    Thanks,
    _Dan
  • edited Jul 2006
    Oh, by the way, the old address to hutzelman's site doesnt work. His new one is http://www.hutzelman.com/web/pages/hardware/Mods/SonyCRT/
  • TheSmJTheSmJ Farmington Hills (Metro Detroit)
    edited Jul 2006
    I'm bringing my P1100 in for repair tomorrow (to get rid of the red tint). If I learn anything new about repairing these monitors I'll post here.
  • edited Jul 2006
    Hi, I've been following this thread and performed the resistor mod on my Sony GDM-F500R and it has helped a lot. I have the ECS cable on order so when I get it I plan to put the 10Mohm resistor back in and use WinDAS to fix it up.

    Couple question concerning this monitor though:

    I used the Nokia Monitor Test software and found that my convergence at the very top cannot be corrected. I can get red in but blue is out or vice versa. Also the top seems to be arched up slightly in the middle (same for very bottom of monitor too) and I don't have a geometry adjustment for that.

    Secondly, my GDM-F500R takes 4 to 5 minutes to display an image after it is powered up in the morning. It is totally black for up to 5 minutes, then, ever so faintly, the image starts to appear and then brightens up normally. It seems something is taking a VERY long time to warm up. If I power down the monitor breifly, then it will come back on in about 30 seconds, but if I power it down and let it totally cool, I'm back the the 5 minute wait time before the image even starts to appear.

    Can anyone help with some answers? What to adjust or replace?
  • edited Jul 2006
    Anyone know where the G2 resistor is on a Sony HMD-A440, 19 inch monitor? I thought is was on the CRT board (A Board), but I don't see it there. I'd like to replace the resistor, as the monitor got very bright then shutdown, so i'm thinking the resistor may have gone bad.

    I will also be doing the windas alignment, so I also need the monitor's pin layout.

    Thanks
  • edited Jul 2006
    So I was all excited to try this fix on my Sony CPD-E400 last night. I had ordered the cable from Hobby Engineering, and changed the pin order. Then I opened up my case, found the pins, and read the labels next to them finding that the pin order was different. So I took apart the cable and rearranged it and set it up.

    I opened up Windas and managed to read the data off the monitor and found my G2 value to be 113. I decided I'd adjust it to 108. Due to a number of distractions at the time, I wound up setting it to 18 instead of 108 and uploading it to the monitor...(don't ask, it was a very long day).

    During the uploading process, the monitor locked out like it had during the downloading of the data.... but it never recovered. The system, both my machine and the monitor locked up and both had to be unplugged. Now, I cannot even power on the monitor, so I am guessing I either fried the electronics or blew a fuse somewhere.

    I thought lowering G2 would lower the voltage and just make it hard to see, but maybe I'm wrong. Or maybe the upload was corrupted somehow. I dont know. Does anyone have any ideas?
  • TheSmJTheSmJ Farmington Hills (Metro Detroit)
    edited Jul 2006
    Turns out the tube in my Compaq P1100 is shot (hence the red/pink color I couldnt get rid of). I ended up buying a new widescreen LCD instead :D
  • edited Jul 2006
    Hey guys. My 1st post. Great and ever lasting thread thank god :)
    Ive read it just about cover to cover. Now my problem....

    I did the win-das install step by step but get 3 Astro G errors and No mdl file error.

    Then it launches, but when i chose Setup/Model Select from menu i get DB(Install) File error popup.

    Ive followed the steps to install each file and my folder looks exactly like the one pictured on how-to site. My last completed step was the ActiveX.bat which is not making sense on how-to site. It says xp needs it to look like "this" but the text and the screenie of notepad shows 2 different things. One says system, other says system32. Help :)

    Convergence tweaking is what im after. The guys that have mentioned corners being out are exactly right. Ive set up screen tv's and this is known issue to tweak to get whole screen correct and red blue green hitting exactly on each other everywhere. Sony cpd g520 21" here. My 17" Sony was dead on corner to corner and cant wait to have this one there :)

    Ed

    edit..i do not have any cables or converters connected. Just getting program working first. Is this cause of errors? Thanks.
  • edited Jul 2006
    Use the system32 text in the bat, he just didn't update that screenshot with the correct info..
  • edited Jul 2006
    mrtube wrote:
    if you dont already have them get the CR1 files for windas, then
    go to procedure, and "FINALIZE" its the last thing on the list
    tab to the OK button that i can never see, hit enter, itll say 'FINALIZE??" say YES
    itll finalize, and your OSD will be unlocked

    Where do I get the CR1 files? My GDM-F500R has a locked OSD after I loaded a .dat file. I need to unlock this!

    Okay nevermind -- my mistake. I didn't press OKAY after the upload was complete. Once I did that, my OSD unlocked.

    But I am curious about the CR1 files? What are these files for and if one did need them where do you get them? Monitor specific??

    Daxx
  • edited Jul 2006
    Just finished up adjusting G2 on my GDM-F500R with the WinDAS software and an ECS cable I bought off eBay. I did find that my ECS port was mislabled and showed GND/+5VCC/RXD/TXD and I had to reverse the signal to TXD/RXD.

    Other than that, it was a smooth job for the most part. My monitors brightness is back under control and it looks great!

    For all you people who contributed to this fantastic thread and saved me from going out and buying another monitor, this Bud's for you! :beer:

    Daxx
  • edited Jul 2006
    I would first just like to give out a big thankyou for all of you that have helped with this thread, it really is an amazing resource.

    I have gone throught the thread and it seems the the problem I am stuck at now is a unique one.
    I have always had a bright monitor, I did a brief look around the web before about making it a little dimmer but in the end I decided to just stick with what I had.
    The monitor kept on getting brighter and brighter until I decided for the 4th time or so to do a colour return. I did the colour return, but instead of making it dim again the brightness was turned up to the very top.

    After that point any time I would turn on my screen the brightness would just keep on increasing until the screen was awash with white. After being white for a second or two the monitor would click and turn to a very white and very bright mixture of colours forming a rainbow.
    Sometimes the rainbow would last for 5+ minutes, but most of the time it would have the rainbow for 15 or so seconds and then shut down.

    I went to the net in seach of answers and found this thread. I have managed to access the G2 level and turn it down. But alas that did not fix anything, even with the G2 level down to 50 is still does the exact same thing.

    So I ask you, do you have any idea what I could do to fix this? Are there any other numbers I can change so that evil rainbow is avoided?
    Thank you in advance for any advice you can give.
  • edited Jul 2006
    I too ordered the cable yesterday off ebay for 19$ we're both happy but -

    das seems to load all beit with errors but i do not get any monitors to choose from under setup - monitor select. Why?

    Astro errors normal without cable connected at program launch?

    still says no .mdl files

    Thanks
  • edited Jul 2006
    Anybody live in the Pittsburgh area that can help me???!?!

    I have the HP version of the FW900 (FW9012 oem), and wish I had known about this brightness problem before I bought it. :(

    I have read this thread thoroughly, and at first I was ecstatic figuring it would solve all of my problems.. Unfortunately I hit a severe snag. I purchased this connector:

    http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=160006186591&ssPageName=STRK:MEWN:IT&ih=006

    Now the most frustrating part is, I have NO way to connect it to the 4 pins I see in there! They are several inches in, and I have tried every way I can think of to get them in there.. It doesn't help that I only have sight in one eye, and have no depth perception whatsoever.. I have no money to go out and buy anything else for this fixit project either. I don't have any way of taking the case off either.. Not that I am very inclined to want to have an open, turned on monitor on my desk, waiting for my skewed vision to get me fried.

    Any ideas, or anybody that lives close enough that has done this before that can come cram this damn thing in there?? At this point I'm just completely frustrated and fed up with it. So close to fixing the problem, just to run into this.. If I didnt need this monitor to actually use my computer, I would have thrown it out of the window. ARRGH I hate electronics sometimes!

    :grr:
  • P991-DELL-SONYP991-DELL-SONY California
    edited Jul 2006
    VMS EddieF wrote:
    I too ordered the cable yesterday off ebay for 19$ we're both happy but -

    das seems to load all beit with errors but i do not get any monitors to choose from under setup - monitor select. Why?

    Astro errors normal without cable connected at program launch?

    still says no .mdl files

    Thanks


    IIRC, this is because flxgrd.ocx or whatever (the thing installed by activex.bat) wasn't installed/registered with windows. 90% sure this is the problem.

    If I'm wrong, check the thread, I remember this problem came up and was solved before.
  • edited Jul 2006
    IIRC, this is because flxgrd.ocx or whatever (the thing installed by activex.bat) wasn't installed/registered with windows. 90% sure this is the problem.

    If I'm wrong, check the thread, I remember this problem came up and was solved before.


    Can i manually place the files where they go? I did this, actually have one in system and other in system32. Should have my cable in a day or 2.

    Thanks
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