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DELL P1110 monitor too bright

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  • edited Jun 2007
    fl00de wrote:
    hi..

    I've just built my ESD cable and set the DAS software.
    My monitor is a sony cpd 520g.
    Its image was too green, G2 was 163, i've changed to 120, the difference is great, but the green is yet strong.

    Any clues?

    Many thanks for the information here.

    Sorry the poor English.

    Try the image restore fuction (you need to warm up the unit at least 3-45 minutes) in the unit's OSD. Do it for all the three (3) color temperatures plus the sRGB.

    If that does not correct the issue, then you will need to peform a white point balance adjutment. You'll need WinDAS and three patterns: black, white and IRE30 (grey). If you can get a hold of a Video Signal Generator, that will be the best way to generate these patterns. Also, you'll need a colorimeter which reads Yxy, Yu'v', and XYZ units. The process is not an easy task, but once you get a hang of it, you'll able to color correct/adjust the monitor's colors, whites and greys to the three color temperatures, and the green cast should go away.


    Hope this helps...

    LAG, Jr.
  • edited Jul 2007
    What should the default orthogonality setting be on HP p1110? Im running it at 1600x1200 75hz. My two year old son keeps playing with the controls and putting it off the setting. My current orthogonality value is 55 but im not sure it looks correct.
  • edited Jul 2007
    radio wrote:
    What should the default orthogonality setting be on HP p1110? Im running it at 1600x1200 75hz. My two year old son keeps playing with the controls and putting it off the setting. My current orthogonality value is 55 but im not sure it looks correct.

    To stop the little one messing up the screen settings, try the lock-out feature - which should be available from your on-screen-display.

    There may be an auto-center/alignment button which can restore the picture, or perhaps try reverting to the default factory setting button.

    I am not familiar with the p1110, so for more information I would consult the hp website for the user-manual, or look for information on the equivalent sony model.

    Thanks, hope this helps.
  • edited Jul 2007
    Hi all guys!
    I just bought a SONY GDM FW900 that have the "too bright" issue, but it's in perfect extetic condition. I would like to buy RLC-1 cable WinDAS adaptor, but i want a confirmation of the wires i should change.

    Look at this picture in the site of the RLC-1 (i can't post links yet) that is the default factory wires configuration:


    So for the correct DAS configuration i must swap the last 2 wires (BLACK) with WHITE) and the two center ones (GREEN WITH RED) of the RLC-1 connector.

    Is it right?

    Thank you very much! :)
  • edited Jul 2007
    HI all - 1st post here....:D

    Gotta say - "Thank you all very much" .....

    I had a Dell P1110 with the over-bright issue and after getting both the the Windas software and the cable from DigitialNemesis as recommended from the gregua site and voila!! One brand new monitor. the initial G2 was around 175 and I was able to get it down to 120 and the colour and blacks are brilliant.

    I do have a question though - I have another one which has the opposite problem, not bright enough and predominately greenish look. I can also see the diagonal scan lines.... So I look at increasing the G2 value or is there anything else I should do?

    Thanks again all....:)

    P2
  • edited Aug 2007
    I got one of these monitors (P1110, Dell) free at work, and it was shot. I put off fixing it for months because I have no electronics experience or knowledge. Finally, today, I came across this thread and learned how to fix it. I soldered 5 1Mohm resistors in series, because I couldn't find any higher. I ended up with just over 4.9 Mohms resistance when I was done, clipped out the old resistor, soldered in the new one, and boom! It's gorgeous!

    I love this monitor, and I'm so thankful for this thread saving it, that I registered just to say thank you to everyone. Great job. I'll be coming back for advice for tweaking it, or any monitor related problems I have. I'm sure to find the answer here. Great job, foks! Keep it up.

    Thank you, again.
  • edited Aug 2007
    I also have a P1110 that I took home when my office put in LCD monitors.

    I bought the adapter cord and installed the Windas software. Everything was going according to plan but Windas is still telling me that it can't find my Security Key. I downloaded the 'WindasPatch' file and unzipped the three files to my Windas folder...but it's still a no go. When I try to open the 'patchDas' file, it flashes on the screen for a split second but won't stay open so that I can read it.

    I'm running Windows XP.

    Can someone shed some light on my problem?
  • edited Aug 2007
    Anyone?

    I would really appreciate some help, or some insight on this.
  • edited Aug 2007
    Thanx to WinDAS I have been able to fix the bright screen and retrace problem on my Sony CDP-E400P monitor.
    I used Wordpad on WinME, installed on a Toshiba 310CDS notebook and a RS232-TTL interface bought as a kit on ebay for just 17 EUR, shipping included.
    While I was trying to send the modified file back to the monitor, I had some 'ECS syntax error' alerts, then I understood that the name of the file you send to the monitor has to be the same as the one you saved from the monitor.
    I had 95 for G2, I dropped it to 80 and the display is OK.
    After the change, I was not able to call again the monitor menu (geometry had to be settted again), don't now why.
    I turned off monitor, restarted computer, loaded the modified file again, and the problem was solved. Don't know exactly which action succeded.
    Now the display it's beautiful.
    Ciao to all
    Satiropan
  • edited Aug 2007
    I am trying to install WinDas but having a few problems

    after applying the patch, it says checksum fails.. not sure where the problem is though..

    can someone pelase help me out or perhaps zip the files and upload it somewhere?

    Many thanks,

    Michael
  • edited Aug 2007
    look carefuly at geocities /gregua/windas all answers are there, if windas have a problem u skipped a step... it work great I installed it over 20 times on different sites.

    I have a sony GDM-5411 21" inch well that is a nice picture and frankly much but much more vivid than any LCD I came across. my picture is not stable it have this little dance on the x axis, maybe a phase issuse between H.sync and V.sync. any1???
  • edited Aug 2007
    I too have a Dell P1110 with excessive brightness. I bought the ECS circuit and installed the DAS software but I am having a problem loading the parameters values after opening the Viewer under Help ->Expert. The left side Viewer List appears but the right side which should show the parameters is blank. Any ideas?
  • edited Aug 2007
    aberger wrote:
    I too have a Dell P1110 with excessive brightness. I bought the ECS circuit and installed the DAS software but I am having a problem loading the parameters values after opening the Viewer under Help ->Expert. The left side Viewer List appears but the right side which should show the parameters is blank. Any ideas?

    I managed to use windas with ECS only when I power on the screen, if I wait the screen more than a sec or two for some reason it won't work.. (well infact I built the ecs and I use the screen 5V for Vcc, if I wait more than a sec the screen cut off the 5v supply so no ECS working here.)
    try it
  • edited Aug 2007
    The resistor fix works beautifully. Email me if you want to know how or more about it...
  • edited Aug 2007
    I just ordered the cable and it shall be here sometimes this week!
    I will try to do a write with all the steps once the cable is here!

    mike
  • edited Aug 2007
    Email me directly with any questions pertaining to the resistor fix. Some more playing with it and the picture it now amazing...Glad I decided to do this... Chorodeski@officeinteriors.ca
  • edited Aug 2007
    OK, for those of you wondering about the resistor fix for this brightness issue here is the low down. If you are at all handy I would recommend this over the Sony software and cable fix…So I recently purchased a Dell P1110 with the Trinitron tube is it. Got it second hand for 40$....Wahoo…When I fist set it up it looked pretty good, then I started to notice just how bright this thing really was even with the brightness on 0. The colors were washed out and the blacks were more like blue-greys. So I did a little research and found the resistor replacement fix. I consider myself to be fairly handy so I figured; why not give it a try. The reasoning behind this resistor replacement is that it controls the black levels and tends to loose value over the years. Now, the general consensus with this fix is that the resistance should be between 4.7 and 6.8 Mohm (that’s MEGA ohms) and that the lower the resistance the darker it will be. I made a few phone calls and found a guy locally that had these resistors. I stopped in to see him and got 4.7, 5.6, and 6.8 Mohm resistors. He gave them to me for free. Firstly, to take the monitor apart you have to take the two screws off the lower back of the machine, then, on the top front of the monitor there are two tabs that need to be pressed in to pop the cover off. These tabs are a bit finicky and decent pressure is required. I used a butter knife. Now that the cover is off you must also take off the metal protector over the rear board. To do this there are 5 screws. Easy enough, now, as per the link you can see what needs to be done. Locate the resistor points between R459. This is where the surgery has to take place. First things first, you have to break the circuit going to the original resistor. This is a pain because its on the other side of the board. My wire cutters couldn’t get in there to snip it. I had to use my dremel with a cutting wheel to cut one of the resistor terminals. Removing the resistor or cutting both sides is not necessary. Just cut one terminal and make sure it isn’t touching. Now the rest of the work can be done on the other (easy) side of the board. There should be enough solder on the board already to connect the new resistor. I figured, given the Mhom range, I would try the one in the middle. So I tried the 5.6Mohm. Put everything back together, and what a difference, however, it was a little too dark. I took it all back apart and replaced that resistor with the 6.8Mohm one. Put it back together and it was great. This is most likely the one you want to use. I then did a color restore from the front panel of the monitor and let me tell you….I don’t think there is a nicer monitor out there…a flat panel wouldn’t come close to having such a rich display as this does. The blacks now are pretty much like the monitor is off and the colors are fantastic (6500K). I do some gaming on this monitor and it’s just beautiful. I hope this information helps. If you would like any additional info please email me and I will be happy to help out. Happy soldering!!
  • edited Aug 2007
    whats the differences between all these color temp.?? I am using 9300 on a G420 19"


    Mike
  • edited Aug 2007
    I found my problem, I didn't have the patch files in the
    Windas/Windas directory...Doh.

    So I finally have
    Windas
    up and running...so I plug the 4-pin adapter that I bought into the monitor and I go to connect the other end...to what? I had thought that I would have to unplug the 15-pin monitor cable and plug it into the adapter cable...but of course, it's a 9 pin connection. I didn't see any info on this in the tutorial (or I didn't recognize it)...and I've tried to find something in the 40 some pages of this thread...but couldn't.

    Forgive me, I'm a bit ignorant about this...but what cable do I need to connect this adapter to my computer...and where/what would I plug it into on my computer?
  • edited Sep 2007
    i ordered my cable from geocities com/emusicraft/
    with this cable you will need to change the order of cables

    you will need to connect the cable to a computer "com" port, then use "windas" to modify the firmware.

    you can find all the information on geocities com/gregua/windas/
    just read through!


    Mike
  • edited Sep 2007
    Okay, so I have installed Windas and patched it... for a minuet there I wasn't even able to get windas to attempt to connect to the monitor, but that problem seems to have gone away... it may return if this problem is solved, however. I have the RS232 <> TTL cable which I ordered on ebay. The problem is, any time I connect the cable to my Dell P1110 one of two things happens. Either Windas tells me it cannot connect to the monitor, or the monitor will not turn on, that is, the green light goes amber. I assume when the cable is connected correctly, the light goes amber and I cannot see the screen. Amazingly frustrating... can someone please offer some suggestions on how to get the cable connected AND access windas to fix the brightness on this monitor, while actually being able to see the screen?!
  • edited Sep 2007
    kev9982 wrote:
    Okay, so I have installed Windas and patched it... for a minuet there I wasn't even able to get windas to attempt to connect to the monitor, but that problem seems to have gone away... it may return if this problem is solved, however. I have the RS232 <> TTL cable which I ordered on ebay. The problem is, any time I connect the cable to my Dell P1110 one of two things happens. Either Windas tells me it cannot connect to the monitor, or the monitor will not turn on, that is, the green light goes amber. I assume when the cable is connected correctly, the light goes amber and I cannot see the screen. Amazingly frustrating... can someone please offer some suggestions on how to get the cable connected AND access windas to fix the brightness on this monitor, while actually being able to see the screen?!

    Make sure you monitor is connected to a computer through the data cable and everything will work. I has the same problem
    goodluck
  • edited Sep 2007
    orendavd wrote:
    Make sure you monitor is connected to a computer through the data cable and everything will work. I has the same problem
    goodluck

    I don't really understand what you mean.... the problem is not being able to connect the RS232 <> TTL cable to the monitor without one of two things happening... the green light goes amber and the screen will not come on, or Windas tells me it can't connect to the monitor. I don't know if I'm connecting it wrong when the light goes amber, or if there is a problem with Windas and that's the reason it won't connect to the monitor when I have the cable connected. Maybe I just need to know exactly how to connect the cable to the four pin header on the back of my monitor. Looking at many pictures of these converter cables, and making absolutely sure that this is the converter cable I needed, I see that there are six holes on the end of the cable and only a four pin header to connect it to. No one seems to have mentioned this as out of the ordinary on the various websites I've looked through about these converter cables, and specifically using them with windas to fix a Dell P1110, so I assuemd it would just align in the center of the holes. Do I need some kind of 6-hole to 4-hole converter?
  • edited Sep 2007
    the pinout is like that (from the Dell service manual scematics) :
    Tx - will be at 5V when monitor is working
    Rx - will be at 0V
    Vcc - is the %v supply to the circuit.
    Gnd - 0V.

    there are only 2 options to connect the cable try them both while the screen is on and recieving data. ( I mean there is something on screen your desktop or whatever).
  • edited Sep 2007
    orendavd wrote:
    the pinout is like that (from the Dell service manual scematics) :
    Tx - will be at 5V when monitor is working
    Rx - will be at 0V
    Vcc - is the %v supply to the circuit.
    Gnd - 0V.

    there are only 2 options to connect the cable try them both while the screen is on and recieving data. ( I mean there is something on screen your desktop or whatever).

    I have tried connecting it in every possible way. Centered on the 6 holes, starting at the top, starting at the bottom, and turned the thing upsidedown and tried the same positions that way... I simply cannot tell if the cable is connected correctly because one of two things always happens... either the monitor clicks off and the light turns amber, or windas tells me it can't connect to the monitor, and i should check the bus line. Do I need a converter of some kind? Can someone out there please tell me exactly how they connected an RS232 <> TTL converter cable to a dell p1110 and their pc, and if one end of their converter cable indeed had 6 holes and they connected it to the four pin header on the back of the monitor?
  • edited Sep 2007
    I used this thread a couple of years ago to do the resistor mod and worked pretty well but i got the brightess problem again

    its so many pages and i coulnt find a good tutorial how to do the ECS cable

    Im not very good at reading the diagram at the p991 page so anyone has a more n00b guide so i can make the cable?

    Thanks
  • edited Sep 2007
    Used this diagram attached but i cant get the thing to work

    I didnt used the 10UuF , its really necesssary for it to work?

    Im getting the check your connection message on windas


    EDITED:

    Got it working :) I was using a disabled COM port and i mixed up the rx and tx pins

    Changed the saved dat with hex workshop.... changed the G2 value from 157 to 135, working fine and as new :)
  • edited Sep 2007
    Joined forum to say wow thanks it fixed my monitor Dell P1110 screen . Thanks guys made a modified and rewritten tutorial to save user some time , and a Rs232 to TTL converter guide too . !!

    Enjoy myblog.bloggybloggydotcom/hacking-monitor-to-fix-too-bright-screens-26-09-2007/
  • Pentium100Pentium100 Member
    edited Oct 2007
    Hello,

    I have Dell P1130 and it has a few problems. One is that at the top left corner there is a very noticeable misconvergence, but I was able to fix that (at least for some resolutions - it still is noticeable in DOS) thanks to you. I used dynamic convergence in Windas.
    However, there is another problem. Instead of dark grey, the monitor displays dark green. I was able to compensate by reducing gren gamma to 0.9 (in powerstrip), but that doesn't work in games. Is it possible to fix my mnitor using windas (somehow reduce the gamma of green color)?

    Sorry for my English.
  • edited Oct 2007
    Hi all - I have an old Sony 21" CPD-540 with the over-brightness problem and diagonal lines, was about to throw it out, then I Googled and found the resistor trick, and then this Slipkid/P991 thread. I had downloaded all the software and was going to order a cable...but since I still was unclear on the adjustments, and couldn't do anything more last nite anyway, I read some more of the thread.

    I didn't read it all, but did come across the recommendation several times to try "image restore" on the menu, a function I didn't know existed. Did that, problem solved - monitor looks like new now. Colors are vibrant and blacks are black.

    At color temp 6500º, bright 50 and cont 80, it matches this guy's test pattern pretty well (not allowed to post link: search "Your monitor is too bright" from furry dot org in Au)

    While it's a bit brighter than he recommends, to my eye it looks best when color mode is set to "sRGB", which auto-adjusts everything for you.
    (not allowed to post link: ref: Sony Technical Digest, Volume 3, November 2000, ISSN 1521-5180 - "sRGB Color Switching Control")

    Once again I'm impressed with the engineers who design Sony CRTs.

    Maybe an admin should make this image restore thing a sticky up front of the thread, before a lot of people go to great lengths they don't need to...?
  • edited Oct 2007
    To all: (((Especially those who did resistor swap and still got too dark of results not matter what))))

    I ran into 3 situations along the way...

    First... The link to the Hutzelman website everyone kept linking that ended in /monitor... does not work for me...

    http://www.hutzelman.com/web/pages/h.../mods/SonyCRT/

    There you go, has the layout for the p1110 in there...

    Second... The 457 and 459 are really close to each other. I have 2 other buddies with this monitor... They bought it back in 2002? I think... On the same day... some sale. 1 of them did a parallel 10 ohm to the 457... The 457 runs under the board like the 459 does before you cut it... He ran another 10ohm on top of the board to the 457 points making it a 5ohm in all connection I believe... Or close to it. Also these 2 points being very close makes it very easy to make a mistake or accidentally drag your soldering puddle and connect the 457 and the 459. I did this... and then remelted the 459 and with a knife ever soo carefully(not the cut or destroy the circuit that ran on the board between 457 & 459) separated the 2 again.


    ---I read a couple of posts where people thought they may have connected the 457 and 459 points and couldn't get out of the too dark phase at all... This is a situation I ran into... Or so I thought.......



    Lastly
    , My final BIG mistake... The 1 that made it or broke it... When you go out shopping for these resistors... make SURE it's a M resistor... On my set up and my other buddies set up... We both bought 5.6ohm 1w resistors.. Neither worked for either of us. So I bought 5.2ohm, 6.2, 6.8. 9.1, 7.2, 7.8?,10, 11.2? and many more up to 15... and as low as a 4.7. All 1 watt resistors too... ALL gave me too dark results. Either WAY too dark so that all settings/colors on full blast wouldn't hardly give me an image... Or just too dark giving me a brown tint on everything while all settings were turned up. I couldn't figure it out...

    I was soo close to trashing this beast... Sure that I probly connected or over burned 2 points with the soldering iron...

    Until... I returned to my local computer hardware store... I found out there was actually 2 sections of carbon film resistors... I looked at the resistor stripes and noticed they were different... Began reading and OH NO I didn't buy the M resistors... I bought 2 of each all the way from 4.7 to 9.1. ALL 1watt and ALL M RESISTORS. I returned home, sure I had the fix now. And sure enough, I was correct. My first and final attempt was a 5.6Mohm 1 watt carbon film resistors (also important to get a carbon film and not a metal film or whatever b/c it'll send out some signal or radiation crap). This could also be marked as a 5M6 ohm 1 watt... I use a 1 watt b/c I hear that a few years down the road I'd just be replacing the 1/2 watt or the 1/4 watt if I were to choose one...

    The 5M6ohm works GREAT, contrast/brightness are at 50/50 and I no longer have to use my nVidia settings... It's amazing. My buddies monitors had went out about the same time within a month of each other... And my boss gave me my p1110 and it already had the brightness issue... The resistors at the store me and my friends shopped at costs me like 4cents each resistor... 100 resistors for like 4$.... A free monitor that was several hundred dollars... now 4 cents... Amazing. Me and the guys all stumbled into the M resistor problem... Even when my friend ran his parallel to p457. We didn't share our results till the end seeing how I guess it turned out to be a challenge to see who could fix it right and the fastest way... In the end we were all fools... But successful fools.



    I have never soldered anything in my life until recently... It's fun. I'd take the job in soldering if I hadn't already had a good internet job.

    The software fix... Way too complicated, find the software... the links most of you listed don't work, splice the cables... set the monitor to the right adjustments... Ugh... Too much to worry about.

    With the resistor fix just disassemble the monitor, remove the old resistor, solder in new (easy/fun), remount case, play/enjoy. 10 minute deal.

    A few precautions to worry about. Don't go disassembling the WHOLE monitor. Many pieces actually hold a charge and can/WILL kill you if you touch them. I touched all over the board where the 457/459 are and nothing jolted me. Maybe I was lucky...



    http://www.hutzelman.com/web/pages/h.../mods/SonyCRT/


    Follow these instructions... VERY easy, and I guarantee everyone has a hardware store or warehouse around you that carries resistors... Everything needs em. Radios, TVs, computers... toasters now even... etc. No need to worry about ordering them online, just google some resistor retailers in your area... I did. And GREAT SUCCESS!!!

    psychoninja911@yahoo.com is my email address so email me if you got anymore questions I should be able to help

    Until next time...

    --CHRIS!!! ;)
  • edited Oct 2007
    Hi all,

    I registered just so I could say thanks for this excellent thread of great info, wish I'd seen it months ago before I binned a fixable Sony G500!

    Also wanted to add that in searching for some sensible priced components in the UK I found this supplier of an integrated USB-serial-TTL level cables with virtual com port drivers available on the same site:
    http://www.ftdichip.com/Products/EvaluationKits/FT232RModules.htm
    There are several versions of the cable, the TTL-232R-WE version is bare wires at the TTL end so you can fit whichever type of plug you need for your monitor.

    In case ayone wants to see if there is a reason why it would be unsuitable the schematic & PDF data sheet is here:
    http://www.ftdichip.com/Documents/DataSheets/Modules/DS_TTL232R.pdf

    Price is about £11+p&p, or around $23+p&p in the US. Shipping is available worldwide & I noticed that alternative sellers have the cable - just google "TTL-232R" or "TTL-232R-WE"


    Maplin have been recommended as a potential component supplier in the UK, but they are a little expensive, so I'd also like to suggest RS components & Farnell as alternate component suppliers:
    http://www.rs-components.com/index.html
    http://www.farnell.com/
    Both these suppliers are international, so the links are to the regions index
  • edited Oct 2007
    Hello!

    I have IBM P260. The brightness was too high, so i did everything like at hutzelman's web page.

    I've soldered 5.1 MOhm resistor instead of 10 MOhm.

    Now brightness level is pretty good, but there's another problem: EVERYTHING BECAME VERY RED !!!

    "Color Return" function didn't help.
    I've lowered red bias to zero, but greys are still reddish.
    Brightness controll affects only red brightness (when I increase brightness, picture becomes red, and when decrease - it becomes green-blue).

    Some people on this forum had the same problem, but I haven't found the solution.
    Help me, please, to fix this bug.

    P.S. sorry for my bad english.
  • edited Oct 2007
    So after all this what is the best model to get if your going to buy another one? Did they ever manufacture any with problems resolved? I like my HP P1110 because you can adjust the G2 without the windas or the resistor mod by simply entering the service mode and turning it down. As far as Im aware the other models dont have this feature? But my 2 year old has scratched the screen somehow and I may end up getting another I was thinking of a P1130 But there is no service mode is there? Im also looking at other 21" CRTs from the same era Like the Mitsubishi Diamondtrons. Anybody know anything about them? They are supposed to be even better than the sonys. Iv also herd about the LaCie Electron Blue II 22 crt. Which is supposed to be one of the best monitors ever. Anybody got any info on these? Like common poblems and stuff? Iv seem them on ebay including a large anti-glare hood for £120. Also has anybody herd of the Sony Artisan http://bermangraphics.com/tips/artisan.htm
  • P991-DELL-SONYP991-DELL-SONY California
    edited Oct 2007
    Been a while since I posted here.

    I promised an updated howto some months ago, but haven't delivered it.

    I wanted to address some recent posts.

    Why bother with resistors or windas? What about color return?
    Color return has a split reputation on this thread. Some people report it solved their problems, others report it made their problems worse or caused them all together.

    Many , if not most, people on this thread and elsewhere have said that they think this whole brightness thing is a software problem. They think it is aging compensation gone wrong.

    However, the problem has happened on monitors without color return. (Maybe they have some software aging compensation.)

    I've also reset my monitor's MPU to factor default safe settings. As far as I k now, this gets rid of any memory. After calibrating it from scratch, I still have a 'bright warm-up' problem.

    If you read the Chassis Training Manuals, you can see that warm up compensation is not software controlled. (Yes the software can tell when you've waited long enough to warm-up, but the chassis training manual does describe a purely hardware implemented warm-up compensation mechanism)

    Whatever case, be it hardware or software, color return didn't work for everybody.

    What does work for everybody, is lowering the G2, be it by service menu (most convenient), resistor, or software.

    (As time drags on, the G2 needs to be lowered again, and so, this isn't a prefect solution)

    This still doesn't fix the bright warm-up problem, or screen zooming/ geometric distortion. This problem is still an open book, please read the Chassis Training Manuals, and service manuals.


    How do I access my service menu?


    It's usually mentioned in the service manual. Sometimes people mention it online. I think it's per chassis, not per model, but I may be wrong.

    If you can access it, you don't need resistors or windas. You can then do almost anything windas does.


    What's DDC, why is it relevant?

    DDC is a clock and data line from your video card to your monitor. Some LCD panels can be user adjusted and shop serviced from it.

    Mitsubishi/NEC monitors don't use a 'Windas Cable', they use the DDC lines.

    Hopefully there is some way to make arbitrary adjustments on Sony Trinitron monitors. They do support a 2 way DDC bus, so there must be some reason for that.

    My color is off, what do I do about it?


    If you can, adjust RBG Bias/Cuttoff for darker colors, and Drive/Gain for brighter colors.

    That's really all you can do. If you can't do this through the OSD, you'll need windas.

    You can also mess with your video cards LUT, but that is just working around the problem

    Thanks IanM for finding cheaper suppliers, and a USB solution. I'll add them to my page if you don't mind.
  • edited Oct 2007
    I screwed up my HP p1110 by hitting the initialize EEprom control in the service menu. Now Iv not got a clue how to get it back to where it was. Everything setting was wiped. The color is completely off now!. Im assuming you can control everything in the service menu that u can do in windas so is there a default set of values i could use to get it back to standard picture and then adjust it from their? Also since iv screwed up the p1110 I picked up a NEC Multisync FE1259 in what looks like immaculate condition for the sum of £15. Anybody know anything about these? its a Diamondtron tube and looks very bright and vibrant colors but the lower right seems blurry. anybody got any idea how to fix this?
  • P991-DELL-SONYP991-DELL-SONY California
    edited Oct 2007
    radio wrote:
    I screwed up my HP p1110 by hitting the initialize EEprom control in the service menu. Now Iv not got a clue how to get it back to where it was. Everything setting was wiped. The color is completely off now!. Im assuming you can control everything in the service menu that u can do in windas so is there a default set of values i could use to get it back to standard picture and then adjust it from their? Also since iv screwed up the p1110 I picked up a NEC Multisync FE1259 in what looks like immaculate condition for the sum of £15. Anybody know anything about these? its a Diamondtron tube and looks very bright and vibrant colors but the lower right seems blurry. anybody got any idea how to fix this?
    radio wrote:
    I was messing with the service mode on my HP1110 trying to adjust the geometry as I just couldn't get it to look perfectly square. Anyway I pressed the initialize eeprom button by mistake and it reset everything back to factory defaults!:eek:" alt=":eek:" /> And now I cant get it back to the way it was! I don't know how calibrate it. Im not going to go to the expense of getting a color meter or anything like that. Is there a default set of settings or anything that I could use to get it back to the standard as if it just came out of its box? I know how good this monitor can look dam!

    I'm afraid the best you can do is get a .dat from some one else. I wasn't even aware the service menu could do such a thing.
    Also I just purchased a NEC Multisync FE1250 for £15 In what seem great condition. I just bought it due to the price and what happened to my p1110. Do you know anything about this monitor?
    I know there is a program to adjust NEC monitors, similliar to windas, except it uses the DDC lines in the monitor signal cable itself. One of them is called SpectraView.
    Its a good monitor very bright and vibrant looking but i noticed that the focus seems to be a little poor at the lower right where the little icon tray is. The icon color seems blurred a little. Do you know if this is a focus issue or just an aging problem or the fact that its simply inferior to the p1110?
    If the color is a blurred, like R G and B are not aligned, then you're describing mis convergence. Not sure if it supports dynamic convergence, I have yet to read any NEC/Mitsubisihi service manuals. Some tubes have magnets taped to them to help with corner convergence. Magnets don't do a thing about focus though. Landing adjustments help with discoloration.
    The monitor has loads of controls but none seem to have any effect on this! I can also access the service menu but I can see no obvious focus control, I wouldn't know where to begin!

    Any advice will be appreciated mate!

    You may want to try SpectraView II. There is a bootleg copy floating around the net. It's more for color calibration though. I haven't tried it myself, if you do, please post about it. All you need is the software, as I mentioned, it uses the DDC lines.

    Sorry I couldn't help more :/
  • edited Oct 2007
    I think its the actual focus of the monitor not convergence because this monitor has basic and advanced convergence settings in the normal osd it make no difference. Ill look for that software.
  • edited Oct 2007
    Hey I have an idea! Does anybody with an HP P1110 fancy going through service mode and writing down all the values then posting them up here ? It would let me attempt to fix mine.
  • edited Oct 2007
    P991 DELL SONY: what is the correct procedure for setting black level on the p1110 assuming everything is working normally?. I tried moving the vertical centering down so that there is a black space at the top of the screen then displaying a black picture then adjusting the brightness down until it blends in but this results in loosing too much detail in photos where I know you can see more.

    The geometry is all off the setting also, I dont think Im going to be able to set it correctly. Its gonna need someone with a signal generator and the rest of the equipment. Unless somebody with a good monitor is willing to tell me what each of the following is set too on their monitor?

    mine is the following:
    HP P1110 1600 x 1200
    75hz


    service menu/geometry

    raster: 127 49%
    width 146 57%
    horizontal centering: 74 58%
    height: 89 70%
    vertical centering: 63 49%
    Pincushion: 42 33%
    Pincushion balance: 63 49%
    Trapezoid: 63 49%
    Orthogonality: 63 49%
    S correction: 13 10%
    C correction: 39 30%
    E/W corner: 65 51%
    Tilt 127 49%
    Vertical Dynamic focus: 63 49%

    GREYSCALE Menu

    Min contrast: 50 62%
    max contrast: 255 100%
    G2 49 19%
    Red Black level: 14 5%
    Green black level: 13 5%
    Blue black level: 25 3%
    Red amp: 131 51%
    Green amp: 112 42%
    Blue amp: 130 39%
    BCL adjust: 127 49%

    Sharpness menu

    Vertical conv 127 49%
    Horizontal conv 127 49%
    Moire 0 0%
    Top and bottom edges 127 49%
    top right corner 127 49%
    bottom right corner 127 49%
    top left corner 127 49%
    bottom left corner 123 49%
    BL Correction : ON
    Save BL input value
    BL input 44%

    memory settings submenu

    type: 0
    custom color: 1
    DDC : INT. (ST7275)
    Initialize eeprom
    INT Burn in test
  • P991-DELL-SONYP991-DELL-SONY California
    edited Oct 2007
    radio wrote:
    P991 DELL SONY: what is the correct procedure for setting black level on the p1110 assuming everything is working normally?. I tried moving the vertical centering down so that there is a black space at the top of the screen then displaying a black picture then adjusting the brightness down until it blends in but this results in loosing too much detail in photos where I know you can see more.

    I also have that problem. If you loose correct color, or detail in the dark end of pictures, I think you should adjust Cutoffs. I couldn't adjust mine correctly because I don't have the right software for my colorimeter, nor do I have the raw command manual for it.

    The same problem can happen at the bright end of pictures. Ideally, each step in the greyscale should appear to have the same change in lightness. If you have an image editing program, make test pattern with all 255 shades of color, if you're way off, you'll notice differences in the 255 step 'gray scales' of each primary color (RGB).



    What does BCL adjust do?
    The geometry is all off the setting also, I dont think Im going to be able to set it correctly. Its gonna need someone with a signal generator and the rest of the equipment. Unless somebody with a good monitor is willing to tell me what each of the following is set too on their monitor?

    Even if you have the exact same settings as some one else (with the exact same model monitor), it won't be perfect. I've offered people my P991 .dat EEPROM settings, and tried others. It leaves allot to be desired.

    I'd just use a crosshatch in your favorite resolution. Unfortunately, there are resolution adjustments for high frequency video modes, and low frequency modes. Not sure if you can do both, but at least you'll have your main resolution correct.
    mine is the following:
    HP P1110 1600 x 1200
    75hz


    service menu/geometry

    raster: 127 49%
    width 146 57%
    horizontal centering: 74 58%
    height: 89 70%
    vertical centering: 63 49%
    Pincushion: 42 33%
    Pincushion balance: 63 49%
    Trapezoid: 63 49%
    Orthogonality: 63 49%
    S correction: 13 10%
    C correction: 39 30%
    E/W corner: 65 51%
    Tilt 127 49%
    Vertical Dynamic focus: 63 49%
    Ha, Dynamic focus! It's a setting I can't seem to adjust in windas. There must be some way to do it.
    GREYSCALE Menu


    Min contrast: 50 62%
    max contrast: 255 100%
    Not sure what these control in terms of grid voltages and the amplifiers.
    G2 49 19%
    Red Black level: 14 5%
    Green black level: 13 5%
    Blue black level: 25 3%
    I think these are the cutoffs,biases, I think if you display black (0,0,0) adjust theses as far up as you can until they barely fall below the parts of the screen that aren't being scanned (like you were saying you did)
    Red amp: 131 51%
    Green amp: 112 42%
    Blue amp: 130 39%
    These are the drives,gains. Not sure how to adjust these, but in windas, it has a rather bright white pattern, and you adjust them until the color is at the right temperature.
    BCL adjust: 127 49%
    What is this? Let me know.
    Sharpness menu

    Vertical conv 127 49%
    Horizontal conv 127 49%
    Moire 0 0%

    Top and bottom edges 127 49%
    top right corner 127 49%
    bottom right corner 127 49%
    top left corner 127 49%
    bottom left corner 123 49%
    What are edges and corners? Is this focus or convergence?
    BL Correction : ON
    Save BL input value
    BL input 44%
    What does this do? BL? Please let me know.

    memory settings submenu

    type: 0
    custom color: 1
    DDC : INT. (ST7275)
    Initialize eeprom
    INT Burn in test
    [/quote]

    Um, again, I have no idea. Burn in test? hmm.


    To answer your question:

    The windas procecuder starts with adjusting physical things, like purity, rough convergence, etc. It doesn't actually do anything except instruct you to display a certain pattern and do the adjustment with your bare hands.

    Then it gets into geometry. It has linearity, along with the usual geometric controls, for Low mid and High frequency.

    Then it does convergence.

    At the very end, it does color.

    G2, contrast, drives, cutoffs, [repeat last two untill both need no adjustment, one affects the other]

    for each color temp. After that, it sets the color return values. Then it's all done.


    Let me know what those weird adjustments do. I don't remember anything sounding much like them.

    thanks
  • edited Oct 2007
    Im not sure what all those weird setting do myself! Ill have a look. First off what does raster do?

    is there any order in which you are best to use to set the geometry controls as setting one seem to affect the other? I downloaded the service manual for my monitor its identical to the Nokia 466pro and 466F and that is the service manual you use for this HP1110. It conatins the correct procedure on how to tune up the monitor, But you need all sorts of equipment.
  • edited Oct 2007
    also according to the service manual the greyscale settings only affect 9300k and all other tints are derived from it automaticaly. If you want to download the service manual its here http://www.eserviceinfo.com/fulltext.php?search_ft=HP%20P1110
  • P991-DELL-SONYP991-DELL-SONY California
    edited Oct 2007
    Well, like I said at the end of my post, Windas does it in that order. Not sure if that is best. It seems intuitive that you would do color last, because everything else is lining up the guns, and if they line up differently, the amount of electrons the RGB phosphors get would change slightly.

    Same thing with doing geometry before convergence.

    Raster.. hmm, I wasn't entirely sure, I remember when doing the Windas procedure there was a geometry adjustment to center the raster.

    So, yours has Nokia electronics. Maybe that explains why it has a service menu, and dynamic focus. (Not to mention, the different way color is set up) Still, it seems weird sony wouln't have dynamic focus, but I'm pretty sure the lack of a service menu atleast on my P991

    Out of curiosity, does it have Color return? This would be another example of non-Sony electronics exhibiting the 'too bright'/overbrightness problem so many have blamed on 'software compensation'

    Other than that, I have no idea what to say. I'm only familiar with P991 Windas adjustments, and I've described the procedure.
  • edited Oct 2007
    NO there is no color return Also I dont think there is anyway to attach a cable for windas with this monitor. I was actually asking only about the geometric them selfs.
  • edited Oct 2007
    Na The monitor has had its day! Iv damaged it some how. The upper left corner is distorted to the left and no matter how much I play with the geometry settings it will never line up correctly. All three corners are aligned apart from that one. It probably could be fixed but would need to done at a service center and it not worth it. Ill see if I can pick up a bargin on ebay or something.

    cheers guys
  • edited Nov 2007
    Success! :)

    I just got the USB to TTL cable (TTL-232R-WE version from FTDIchip) to successfully connect to my Sony CPD-G500 & lowered my G2 setting from 161 to 140.

    Details of where to get the the cable I already posted:
    http://icrontic.com/forum/showpost.php?p=564684&postcount=833
    The matching drivers are on this page:
    http://www.ftdichip.com/Drivers/VCP.htm
    On my PC (Windows XP Pro 32bit) it installed a USB serial port on Com 3


    I had a little teething trouble getting WinDAS to work, but re read this thread and realised the crashes and bus connection issues I experienced were nothing to do with the USB cable & so now that I've proven it works I'll summarise everything I did (please excuse the abridged repetition of the standard instructions, I thought it worth including in the summary just re emphasise just how easy it is to do this!)


    Making up an ECS cable
    I cut the end off a floppy drive power cable and soldered the relevant GND, VCC, TX, RX wires of the TTL-232R-WE. Schematic is here: http://www.ftdichip.com/Images/ttl232rsch1.jpg I also put insulation tape over the soldered joins & over the unused RTS & CTS wires.

    Pic of my cable is attached below.

    Installing FTDI's USB serial Com port drivers
    Download the driver package & unzip it. Plug in the TTL-232R cable to a USB port, Windows detects it just fine & you just need to browse for the folder where you unzipped the driver package
    http://www.ftdichip.com/Documents/InstallGuides/Windows_XP_Installation_Guide.pdf

    Installing WinDAS -2 minutes work with the handy zip file linked below!!! :)
    This page has all the WinDAS files as a convenient zip file:
    http://www.myblog.bloggybloggy.com/hacking-monitor-to-fix-too-bright-screens-26-09-2007/
    direct to the zip:
    http://www.bloggybloggy.com/randomdownloads/windas.zip
    Unzipped & ran the activex.bat as per the instructions, the activex.bat with this zip is already edited for Windows XP :)

    Configure WinDas
    For my monitor model & Com port the settings are:
    WinDAS -> Set up -> Model Sel = CPD-G500
    WinDAS -> Set up -> Config -> ECS Port = Com3
    WinDAS -> Set up -> Config -> SG Name = manual

    N.B. I found that if I tried to skip ahead of the instructions at this point to connect to the monitor and save my dat file after doing this config step the WinDAS program would hang. You need to close & re open WinDAS before you try WinDAS -> File -> Save Data to File. On my system WinDAS hangs 100% if you access config & then try to access anything else!


    Prepare PC & monitor for connection
    1. Shut down the PC & switch off the monitor
    2. Remove the outer cover & plug the cable into the monitor service port
    3. Re start PC & switch monitor on (I waited for the monitor to warm up for over 30min so that I could get a good impression of the effect my G2 change would have)
    4. Switch off screen savers & power saving features
    5. Exit any Virus Protection/Internet Security programs (in case it interferes with the connection)
    run WinDAS as Administrator!
    Right click windas.exe and run as administrator (noted earlier in the thread that there may be connection problems if you don't run WinDAS as admin)

    WinDAS -> File -> Save Data to File
    Immediately save your current config as a dat file. My monitor went blank & the power light went off for 2-3 minutes while it saved

    I copied my newly created dat file & renamed it so I had a backup.

    Changing the G2 or other values
    If you got your cable working then refer back to the original instructions on how to to edit the .dat file & load it back into the monitor. N.B. I used Windows Start Menu -> Run -> "cmd" -> "edit" to open a suitable editor for the .dat.

    just realised Windows Start Menu -> Run -> "edit" opens the editor just fine

    http://www.geocities.com/gregua/windas/adjustment.html
    or
    http://www.myblog.bloggybloggy.com/hacking-monitor-to-fix-too-bright-screens-26-09-2007/
  • edited Nov 2007
    Just wanted to say a big Thanks to everyone who contibuted here. My Dell p1110 looks great now. I decided to go with the WinDas solution - bought the components from nck electronics (?) mentioned on P991's how-to site. Total of $10 US shipped. Soldered the pieces together and found an old cd cable and plugged it in.

    Well. .. . it wasn't exactly that easy. the cable I had, even though it had 4 wires didn't work I kept getting that "can't connect check cable and bus" error so I stipped all the insulation off and found that the 2 center pins (both black) were actually connected to each other and I was connecting Rx (or Tx) to Grnd with out realizing it. I found a different cable and then it worked (after I switched the Rx-Tx.

    After that all went smoothly.

    Until I reduced the G2 below 100 then My monitor went black and did not power back on.

    I plugged in a different monitor to the PC and since it couldn't be read at the dell's settings I had to reboot my computer. Now I had one monitor hooked to my PC and the dell still connected via ECS/serial port.

    I started Windas and tried to reload the .dat file with the G2=90 and I saw the error screen that came up (couldn't see it the first time since the monitor blacked out). I then figured out (as some one posted earlier) that you cannot change a value from 3 digits to 2 digits. So, in order to use G2 less than 100 you must enter 090 instead of just 90 in the .dat file

    I also came across the locked OSD at one point but found the solution to that in here as well (Thanks again P991) which was to make sure you exit Windas properly and cycle power on your monitor before you tough any of the front panel buttons.


    One question for P991_DELL_Sony, (well actually two):
    1. Why do you now think the WinDas solution is not neccessary? Are you thinking the HV varistor is a better choice now? Can it be located on all the monitors spoken of here?
    2. Have you got more info on Windas and the other adjustments - You have mentioned a number of times about adding it to your how-to but I only see the main page with 4 links at the bottom - not too much on changing other settings.
    This is the page I found the How-to at:
    www dot geocities dot com / gregua / windas/

    Again, I am ever grateful to have found this thread.

    Dave
  • P991-DELL-SONYP991-DELL-SONY California
    edited Nov 2007
    dwash wrote:
    Just wanted to say a big Thanks to everyone who contibuted here. My Dell p1110 looks great now. I decided to go with the WinDas solution - bought the components from nck electronics (?) mentioned on P991's how-to site. Total of $10 US shipped. Soldered the pieces together and found an old cd cable and plugged it in.

    Well. .. . it wasn't exactly that easy. the cable I had, even though it had 4 wires didn't work I kept getting that "can't connect check cable and bus" error so I stipped all the insulation off and found that the 2 center pins (both black) were actually connected to each other and I was connecting Rx (or Tx) to Grnd with out realizing it. I found a different cable and then it worked (after I switched the Rx-Tx.

    After that all went smoothly.

    Until I reduced the G2 below 100 then My monitor went black and did not power back on.

    I plugged in a different monitor to the PC and since it couldn't be read at the dell's settings I had to reboot my computer. Now I had one monitor hooked to my PC and the dell still connected via ECS/serial port.

    I started Windas and tried to reload the .dat file with the G2=90 and I saw the error screen that came up (couldn't see it the first time since the monitor blacked out). I then figured out (as some one posted earlier) that you cannot change a value from 3 digits to 2 digits. So, in order to use G2 less than 100 you must enter 090 instead of just 90 in the .dat file

    I also came across the locked OSD at one point but found the solution to that in here as well (Thanks again P991) which was to make sure you exit Windas properly and cycle power on your monitor before you tough any of the front panel buttons.

    Ouch. I've actually heard of both these problems, but I neglected to mention them.
    One question for P991_DELL_Sony, (well actually two):
    1. Why do you now think the WinDas solution is not neccessary? Are you thinking the HV varistor is a better choice now? Can it be located on all the monitors spoken of here?
    Well, I followed up with the guy who mentioned it to me. I guessed it would be a better choince based on some things I've heard:

    1. That Xweebie had measured each and every grid voltage, and found no change while the monitor warmed up (and the monitors are bright/washed out when warming up.)

    2. The screen geometry size/center drifts a bit during warm up. So I figured that maybe it wasn't just the G2 that changes.

    3. That adjusting the HV trimmer did affect brightness.

    4. Sony service bulletins mention that the brightness problem is something to do with CRT drift.

    Anyway. he said that he didn't think HV was the problem. He had measured the G2 voltage and it was high. He holds the rather common opinion that the whole issue is age compensation.

    Ofcourse, I should really get an HV probe and see.

    Personally, I highly doubt that the problem is software based aged compensation. I've heard:

    1. I don't think anyone has noticed their G2 rising, yet quite a few have noticed their monitor keeps getting brighter.

    2. I've reset my monitors MPU with the reset MPU function of windas. I think this would reset the age compensation stuff if it were software based, or memorized somehow based on age. I still have a bright warm up.


    3. I've read in the 'Chassis Training Manual' for some F99 chasis monitor (not the P991 but close enough) that there is a CRT drift compensation thing. I forget exactly what it does, I didn't quite understand it. The manual was at eservice.info. It described something do do with the charge on the tube? I have no idea really.

    I think/hope that there is some component that can be cut/removed which will cease the 'drift compensation' and the monitor will age like all previous trinitrons did. Being dark during warm up, and getting dimmer with age.

    If anyone has other theories, I'd love to hear them.
    2. Have you got more info on Windas and the other adjustments - You have mentioned a number of times about adding it to your how-to but I only see the main page with 4 links at the bottom - not too much on changing other settings.
    This is the page I found the How-to at:
    www dot geocities dot com / gregua / windas/

    Yes, I haven't mentioned any extra adjustments as they vary by chasis. Furthermore, most of them would be very tedious to make by editing the dat file.

    On another thread, at HardForum, there is a user, Foe Hammer, who had found a register that altered contrast. It was FW900 specific though. (I'm sure there are simmiliar registers for other chasis though). Anyway, he really made that thing shine. If you want, you could play around with the values, but ofcourse, there's a rare chance you might break something.

    I've mentioned a few times on this thread my experience with the built in procedures. They have instructions as you go, but are hard to follow if you don't have two computer. I believe I've posted the mode lines of the requested patterns.


    A while ago, I went through this whole thread and collected all posts I've found interesting or useful, I redid a little bit on of a new howto page, but I never got around to finishing it. What I really wanted to add, was my windas program with patterns, mode setting, and easy adjustment. Without it, you need two computers, and a bunch of hassle.


    IanM wrote:
    I think I read that people are having problems getting the brightness & contrast balance right. I suspect the reason may be related to the fact that CRT phosphor only has a limited lifespan - a generalisation is that after 10,000 hours use peak luminance will be approx 1/2 the level it was for a new monitor. By 30,000 hrs the monitor may be totally unusable.

    :( Yeah, phosphors are probably a problem. Screen burn-in is just uneven aging isn't it?

    Could it just be the phosphors are less efficient? Can the aging be made up for by bombarding them with more electrons? I figure this would be noticed as a change in the gamma curve. Maybe the tube becomes useless when the electronics can't map the the input signal to electron beam output precisely enough.

    There's also cathode wear. I've heard on arcade machines it helps to 're charge' the cathodes with a CRT restorer.
    Infact, the 'color restore/return' option measures beam current and compensates for reduced cathode efficiency.

    B22 P22 I think are the same thing. If you know anything about the phosphors please tell me.
    It does vary by monitor model and the type of phosphor used - I don't think you can even generalise Trinitrons into a single estimated lifespan either. Indeed $40K+ colour accurate broadcast grading monitors may have a warranty in hours much much shorter than a more robust (& less colour accurate) corporate office monitor.

    Yeah, I've seen some tubes advertised as Ultra-wide gamut. What is the difference?
    My CPD-G500 monitor is from Jan 2001 and I blagged it from Sony Computer Entertainment while I worked there. Now this monitor of mine has seen many years of use, so while I'm messing with the brightness & contrast I'm not sure if I will ever get it restored to quote the right level.

    I know some of the artists in my old dev studio leave their monitors on 24/7 to avoid the warm up period i.e. that's approx 8500 hous used per year and in 2-3 years the CRT could be effectively worn out - impossible to ever again get high contrast & good colour!

    Eh.. another depressing fact. Buying a refurbished CRT could mean buying something on the end of it's life. No way to buy a new one for a reasonable price . Hopefully the black screen doesn't wear the tube as much as a brighter screen, but thanks to the brightness issue, black isn't so dim.
    Right now my blacks are just short of being black, whites are a little grey, detail is a bit lacking in dark areas (as if the gamma is messed up) & I don't seem to have quite the vibrancy & contrast compared to my Sony 21" CRT television. If you have any thoughts on this or remember any posts in the thread that may be useful let me know.

    It's hard to beat a television in contrast. There's a dot pitch/ beam current trade off. If you increase contrast too much, the spots 'bloom'. Maybe there's a third factor like accelerating the electrons to the screen faster, so they have less time to repel each other. Ofcourse, I don't know much about that. Does electron velocity have much to do with brightness when it impacts the screen?

    I have exactly your problem though. I try to get a good black level, and it's impossible without losing detail in the darkest end of the video signal.

    But, I've adjusted other old tubes fine, not sure what's going on here.
    Also I've been trying to get hold of a couple of FW900 widescreen CRTs and may be able to get one from a reseller who does refurb work in the UK. If I do buy from them I will ask if they have any tips about getting the contrast balance right - can't promise anything on this, I guess their willingness to help will depend on wether I decide to buy from them or not...

    That'd be interesting to hear.
    If you want to refurbish, try doing the white balance procedure with a colorimeter. I got my year 2000 P991 to work within the stated specs (Well, I needed the 30IRE grey, which I didn't get exactly, and my colorimeter was crapping out on the low luminances, but the monitor could well exceeded the brightness. I should actually have checked the color coordinates for sRGB and see if it matched.

    If it can get pitch black, and become as bright as the spec says it should, can't it do everything inbetween? And if so, doesn't that mean a perfect display is possible? I fear it's probably more complicated than that, but, maybe not.

    Thanks
  • edited Nov 2007
    Hmm, this usuallly happens to people who do the resistor mod. Interesting that it happens on un-touched monitors.

    See if you can find differences between a normal monitors .dat and a 'slow warmup' monitors dat. I doubt there is a warmup setting, but it's worth a look. Maybe it's one of the un-named REG* settings. Backup the .dat of a slow warmup one, then load in the .dat of a normal one, things will look screwy, but maybe it fixes the slow warmup problem. Who knows. If it does, narrow down to what value made the difference.

    You may also want to confirm that the resistors in the G2 circuit are all within specs, just to completely rule out any hardware issues.

    Goodluck, and be sure to let us know of a solution if you find it.

    Hey,
    I see someone is actually on-line in this huge thread, I am about to install the new resistor you all were talking about. Any last minute suggestions:confused:" alt=":confused:" />
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