Tweaks please.
My spec is as below but I've just added an xp3200 (400) and changed the memory for 1G pc3500 DDR433. In soft menu the cpu is down as 2500+, external clock 166MHz, multi 11.0. I've set it to turbo and it shows as 6.2.2. I had 5.2.2 before. I've just ran 3dmark 2001 and got 14307 (from 11000).
What do I tweak to get more guys?
What do I tweak to get more guys?
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If it doesn't give you the option for 3200+. Then set multiplier to 11x, clock to 200mhz. Then reboot and run 3dmark again
One tweak that might help you out is changing the 5/6 number (TRAS?) to 11 in BIOS - it's counterintuitive but for some reason it works on the nForce-2 chipset.
Trev
u mean it's the die temp, instead of the surface temp right??
if that is the case, no wonder my temp has gone up since i changed from my epox 8rda+ to my nf7-s.
Is your PSU generic, i.e it came with the case? Or did you buy it seperately
? if so what make and model?
Omega's right though, whether it's a top quality 350w or an overloaded 350w standard, 400w should really be the bare minimum when running one of those bad boys. Whether the PSU is the root of your problems or not still remains to be seen, but spending an extra few bob on a new PSU would be recommended. But then I suppose you've just blown your last wad of cash showing your wife how much of a stud you are.
Let us know about that CPU though mate.
Hardly. Want to know what I've run off a 350w PS?
ABIT NF7-S v 2.0
1800+ JIUHB DLT3C @ 2.4GHz
ATi Radeon 9700 Pro
1GB PC3500 (Mushkin Level II)
2 7200rpm HDDs
2 Optical drives
Floppy
4 case fans + CPU fan, 60mm fan on video card
A good 350w (Antec, Enermax, PC Power & Cooling, Fortron Source, etc.) is more than sufficient for any single-CPU machine that doesn't have an insane amount of drives (like, say, 6 hard drives...).
In fact, according to APC's software, the server at habitat for humanity (A7N8X 2.0, 1800+, 2 40GB 7200RPM drives in RAID 1, GF2MX400, CD-ROM, Floppy) draws 210w running F@H, and that's with an ancient, crappy HP monitor that draws 110w by itself.
But yea, fair point.
Gotcha. I agree with you on that, for sure. It all depends on the quality of the PS. One of the older cad/cam machines at work (1.4GHz TBird, 512MB DDR, GF3, NIC, 40GB HD, CD, Zip, Floppy) runs quite happily on a 250w Antec power supply. BUT, it's an Antec power supply, too. I wouldn't run that system off a 250-350w (or even 400w) generic PSU if you paid me. I bought a CHEAP ($20) "550w" PSU to use as a bench/test PSU. I put it under load outside of a computer to make sure it could handle my systems. Know what? At ~300w, the +12v line was 11.3v. It lasted for all of 10s or so before going *poof*. 550w my ass.
50c at idle as a 2500+ means that it should be getting up close to 60c under load as a 2500+ and I could see it getting up to 65c or higher under load as a 3200+.
These are just my personal thoughts on the matter.
PSU, I don't know. It came with the case but is 350w amd approved.
I think I'm going to take the cpu out, again!, and take it back to Aria and let them test it. They have a nf7s test rig. If it works in there I'll pick up another psu.
Thing is, whatever I set in bios, fail safe, optimal, it's always identified as 2500. If then the only thing I change is 2500+>3200+ it crashes. On one of these settings a blue windows screen opens telling me windows has shut down to prevent damage to your pc. Once or twice @3200 windows loads but when the last few icons start to appear in the task bar everything freezes, reset button time. It has never run @3200.
the 2.0 is the only version that OFFICALY supports the 400 fsb CPU
http://www.abit-usa.com/products/mb/products.php?categories=1&model=6
if you have the older version the chipset is not the NV 2 ultra which does 400 in it sleep
so of the older chips can do it and some cannot
that might help
Case FANS, plural. My Barton runs 12-13 C above case under load NORMALLY, when case gets to (or hotter than) 31 C it goes to 47-50 C. At 32 C CPU runs 46-47 C. At 26-27 C, it runs at 40-41 C. In other words, when heat is not vented out of case fast enough, and cool air drawn in, the temps rise drastically at CPU. It would die if case got to 36 with the temp increase curves I see NOW. In fact, the motherboard monitor is set to kill the box at 36 C case temp.
Couple notes: I have about 145 CFM air flow in just case fans-- two 80 mm in fans at about 32 CFM each, two 80 mm output rear fans at about 40 CFM each (all Panaflos). CPU fan adds about 40 CFM (39.6 exactly, it is a Panaflo). HS is a SLK-900 with a very thin layer of Ceramique HS compound. Too much HS compound will cause CPU temps to rise too high relative the HS. Note, AS5 STINKS. AS4 or Ceramique are better, much better, for compound. PSU id a dual fanned PSU, it runs about 50 CFM out of the case as the fans are not high-flow on it but is stable so I have not R&R'd the fans. I am discounting the one IDE Cold-Swap bay fan that is running all the time, it is about 15 CFM and is a very high flow fan for a 40 mm fan. I am discounting the NB fan also, about same flow.
Definitely a case Overheat thing as primary culprit here. 99% sure. Southern climate here gives me a natural heat curve and delta analysis lab....
John D-- who actually thinks that unless you have the computer right next to heatduct or wood stove or fireplace or some heat source, where you are, case should be 10 C lower with proper venting and cooling and then CPU would be VERY happy. One last idea, seen this done (BIG MISTAKE for first, second better)-- take an old desk with solid back panel, put case under desk, you get a massive heat trap effect and computer will not cool right. Put case NEXT to desk, wastebasket instead UNDER desk, you get a very happy computer as heat is not trapped under desk.
Heat may be the problem, but the CPU itself won't cause stability problems at stock untill well into the 80's. The problem you may be encountering, is that the BIOS is configured to turn the PC off when it reaches a certain temp, that may be set too low currently for the temps your CPU is running at. So find those settings in the BIOS and raise them and see if it makes any difference. Don't worry even the most relaxed settings in this department will shut your PC down before it goes nova.
I actually had a similar problem recently with a stock heatsink on a 2800+. It just wasn't cooling the CPU properly, couldn't figure out why, I swapped it out for another one, and it worked fine. Are you using the stock thermal paste that comes on the bottom of the heatsink? You should.
However, reading one of your above posts, you shouldn't experience freezing or BSOD's in the event of an safety shutdown. If it were an overheating related stability problem, the computer should shut it self down before the the system gets to the point of instability. Which still makes me think your CPU isn't what you think it is. Nevertheless...
Either way Bothered please confirm what CPU you've got. It will be written on the CPU.