How is this for temps???
I finally got my W/C set-up all together, tested and running. I still need to get some new shorter SATA cables and a few odds and ends before I post more pics and give the full run down.
Here's my temps while folding after 2 hrs. Is this any good or am I missing something?
Here's my temps while folding after 2 hrs. Is this any good or am I missing something?
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The 2.68 Core 1 reading should be mapped to RAM, methinks. Voltage is a tib high for CPU, because you are stretching FSB a bit far. I have a 13 multiplier, and BASE CPU rate is 167. Unlike a P4, the multiplier is different.
My Barton is happy at 1.65 V average with stretched multipliers. The main reason I do this is during day today the case was at 31 C for a high, the Barton topped out at 44 C (I enabled high\low and interval loggin in MBM 5, the interval log is set for 15 min intervals and every time the MBM interval log fills up to 1000 lines, XP hangs, so I do a rename save every once in a while). As a wild idea, try another exhaust fan, side exit. You might have a case that is slightly positive pressure. Worst case, turn the side fan so it inputs. Oh, if it helps, Ceramique and Bartons get along fine if you use a very thin layer only on core (after about two weeks of run time it stabilizes at its max cooling ability and the decrease is almost a straight line to time for the first 200-250 hours of run time). It beats AS5 all hollow, sorry to say.
You might try a pushme-pullyou fan forced air flow through RAD (one dual ball bearing fan blowing into rad from inside (pushme), one dual ball bearing fan pulling air out on outside (Delta high volume fans, say 80 to 100 CFM each to allow for back pressure caused by tubes, especially on PUSHME side??)), see if CPU temps drop 2-3 C. The totally forced air flow would probably help cool the water better adn since you have the rad and it can be used as an exhaust point "why not try it?" bacomes relevant to my mind. Yes, a duct of Plastic around rad perimeter, if you have totally forced air flow, might be good.
John D.
And the reason I suggested a 120 in the window is that mtgoat's system is a negative pressure setup in that the airflow out is greater than the airflow in so in putting the case side back on the rad is probably getting a bit starved for airflow which would explain the higher temps.
you hit it on the head. I don't think John remembers the front intake issues I had going into this project from trying to mount my radiator in the front of the case in this thread.
I have:
Intake
1x 120mm Enermax adjustable (64-105 CFM)
1x 80mm (34 CFM)
*** There is a lot of restriction to the intake of both of these fans***
Exhaust
1x 120mm rear (suction side of radiator) (85 CFM)
2x 80mm Vantec Stealth (2x 22 CFM)
*** Adjusting the Enermax 120mm on the front has no effect and I connected the sensor lead to my board and it doesn't increase much in RPM so I am certain the restriction is keeping it from spinning up as it is running out of air to pull. So I am back to either doing my above mod to get radiator air directly through the side of the case or modding the intake capabilities on the front. I still do not want to do anything to visibly change the front bezel of the case.
The front air flow being blocked or limited as MtGoat said would limit air flow in, and starve radiator. As Geeky has preached, you WANT a negative pressure inside case, but you need the potential for flow from front.
A side fan makes sense, and given the stats MtGoat stuck in and specs, the rad has to be limiting air flow through it some. Tubes and narrow fin spacings limit flow volume. So, a side fan will help some, but the rad will also act as an air dam in part with just a sucking fan. Put a fan on inside, push sir at another fan on outside of RAD. The flow from the fan pushing air into Radiator (possibly with a short 1-1.5" duct btween pushing fan and rad)combined with the flow from fan on outside should take air flow to about 1.5 times the present value. Then water or coolant in the cooling system will get cooled better by the wind sucking calories (kilocalories) of heat out of fins and tubes. It becomes a flow induced WINDCHILL effect almost.
Note that in a car radiator, the sucking fan has forced air flow behind it-- caused by car motion through air. So, create that effect with a fan in an unmoving case, and airflow volume improves.
I would say start with just a hole where you would put a fan on side, see if starvation is mitigated by just hole and if temps iomprove. If not, add a pushing fan. Front flow area limits in case causes negative pressure I bet, not the equal fans.
Opening up the front for fanning in front makes good sense also.
As to voltage at CPU, I HAVE a Barton 2500+, Vcc is 1.62 typical per BIOS (half my actual 3.3 actual), and RAM is at 2.68-2.73 variable as is MtGoat's Core 1 showing in display. My Core 1 is ZERO. Opterons are multicore, and true multipipe, but the Barton is a single pipe and does not accept almost three volts in, nor does the P4. The core is likely to gradually heat crack at the builtup core material temps that would result.
Continuing with voltage, take a look at the fan power load draw, any chance the fans are not running at full rated RPM and thus running under the volume throughput they should have???? Bigger PSU might be needed for that.
John D.
Also ...remove the integrated fan guards with dremel off of the case to improve flow and replace with wire guards...
Basically ...you're generating a buttload of heat my man!!! :necro:
Are these temps under load (ie folding)?
John, his temps with the case side off were fine as there was no restriction to airflow going into the rad so if the airflow through the case were equalized the temps should drop back down although I'll agree that to optimize the flow through the rad and to make up for the restriction created by the core a second fan on the rad would be a good idea especially with a shroud.
We understand each other. I run my Barton, now, on a negative to equal flow basis, and my P4 on a negative pressure basis. Both are stable, that is what counts.
A passive side hole will give volume of air, that is what in part we are fighting to achieve, agree there. My Barton in an Antec SOHO case cools fine with just the vent in side-- been playing with fans and positions and volumes of fans in different places, so old descrips do not match reality.
The dust thing-- my cases are not under the table, they are next to it, and raised from floor about 3.75" now from feet bottom to floor, thinking of raising them more (about 6-8" more). Raise whole case up, less dust gets in, and the bottom front slot for air is not needed if you have front venting like the Antec SOHO and 1000 series performance cases come with. Duct tape the front panel bottom slot vent, and dust input halves. The CPU HS gets cleaned every 8 weeks or so with cases raised, before raising it was an every 3-4 week thing.
John D.
Chris,
I did remove all the metal from the fan areas. Those temps are full load, folding Gromacs with all switches.
My original plan was to mount the rad externally but decided to try this first as it looked much neater!
Here is the problem with the front.
Edit:
New PSU will be here on Thursday!