It finally arrived!
I'm baaaaaack :celebrate
I finally got my K7D Master-L... it's fully functional (I'm typing on it right now) except for the PS_Fan header tach... but for $160 shipped, vs. $221 from Newegg after tax and shipping, I can live with that...
My only dilemma now is dual 2400s or 2500s? As I said over @ AMDMB, I'd really like 2 2800MPs, but I'm not spending ~$650 on 2 CPUs... so I'll be buying the 2400s or 2500s and OCing them...
The board offers up to 1.85v, and I can probably get away with a ~140MHz FSB (36MHz PCI) if it makes any difference...
So yea... 2 2400s or 2 2500s, and why?
I finally got my K7D Master-L... it's fully functional (I'm typing on it right now) except for the PS_Fan header tach... but for $160 shipped, vs. $221 from Newegg after tax and shipping, I can live with that...
My only dilemma now is dual 2400s or 2500s? As I said over @ AMDMB, I'd really like 2 2800MPs, but I'm not spending ~$650 on 2 CPUs... so I'll be buying the 2400s or 2500s and OCing them...
The board offers up to 1.85v, and I can probably get away with a ~140MHz FSB (36MHz PCI) if it makes any difference...
So yea... 2 2400s or 2 2500s, and why?
0
Comments
Why not get the Bartons?
Someone else is getting a Dual 2500+ system. Omega is it?
Yup.
Get the Barton 2500+. When using Dual CPUs the more L2 cache the better. I'm going to be converting my 11x multi Barton 2500+ (FSB333) to 15x multi Barton (FSB266). I'm currently testing the CPU in my Epox boards for what they'll OC to. The First Barton did 2.00ghz @ stock voltage (15x 133 = 2.00ghz) but will only do about 2.20ghz @ v1.85 MSI K7D max voltage - oh well, I was hoping for 2.4ghz :shakehead ) .
I'm going to let it fold for a couple of days, to burn it in and then I'll test the 2nd one.
After that it's Bridge blowing time!
Voted for the 2x2500 for Obvious reasons.
NS
I imagine though that if you did settle for the 2400's you'll just be regretting it at a later date. My motto is, if in doubt get the better one, regret and dis-satisfaction are no good for the soul. It's only money after all.
Murphy's Law does command respect however....
Couple questions:
1. How do I blow the bridges?
2. Which bridges do I blow for a 15x Multi?
3. Is a 16x Multi too much to ask?
4. How do I connect the L5s- do I need anything but a conductive ink pen?
5. Which L5s do I connect?
1. I blew the bridges with an old AT psu I have laying around, but you can also do it with a jumped ATX psu. For blowing the bridges, I took the power lead from a dead fan and soldered sewing needles to the fan leads after cutting it off the fan. Then I carefully moved the lead that connects to the +12v out of the 4 pin socket and moved it into the +5v position in the 4 pin molex socket.
2. For hard coding the multiplier, I use this guide to look what is available and what bridges I have to blow or connect. For the 2500, you will only have to blow the 2 rightmost L3 bridges to change the default 11 multi to a 15 multi. Also, from this page , you can change the hard coding of the fsb sense speed from 166 to 133 by opening up the third L12 bridge. Finally, you will need to connect the end L5 bridge to enable your mobo to sense the proc as a MP capable proc. I used some superglue gel to fill the pit in but I've heard that it isn't necessary to do this, but I figured that I would insulate the cut anyways.
3.16 multi, it depends on how well the procs overclock. If you can max out at 150 X 15 and looks like you still have some headroom, then you might try hard coding a 16 multi.
4.Covered this in answer 2.
5. Answered in 2.;)
Hope this helps you out, it took me a while to remember the websites I linked to. I forgot to bookmark the ocinside site.
Has anyone noticed that the retail heatsink on the 2500 is a hell of a lot heavier than the heatsink on a 1700, even tho it's approximately the same size? The base is still silver, and it's no thicker than the base on the 1700 (palomino) heatsink... I'm thinking it's silver-plated copper or something...
I'll post pictures of the heatsink and stuff when I get home so you can see what I mean... right now, I have to go back to school (12:30-2:30 on fridays ) so I don't have time...
On a side note, if I fark this, I'm gonna send the 10 people that voted for the 2500s a bill for $23.39 each to cover replacement cpus
One more thing- will my KX7 run the bartons so I can make sure they're good, or am I gonna have to buy another mobo or send my A7N8X back and wait for it to test these guys?
Flint
I know my former 8K5A2+ (KT333) only liked 1 of 3 Tbreds I tried it with. It would only boot on a restart, but not a cold boot (600w PSU) with the 1st two. I dropped in a 3rd Tbred and Viola! a normal PC - Go Figure
That's really strange, my old 8KHA+ board, which is a generation earlier board than either the KX7 or the 8K5A2+ didn't give me a bit of problems with either the XP2400 or the Tbred A XP1700 in it presently. Of course, both of those are 133 fsb procs, so maybe that has something to do with it too.
The Old KT133a based KT7A's usually worked with Palominos/Tbreds even though Abit said they weren't supported, while reports were that the KT266a based KR7s didn't like Tbreds at all. And with KX7's (KT333) Tbred/Barton support was spotty. Even to the point where Abit said to RMA the board so they could fix it.
One thing I must say though is that even though they trail the NF2 in benches, my KT400 mobos have been ROCK SOLID! (2 Epox's and 1 Abit)