Very interesting. I turned down a used Sun GDM-5410 (21'' G1 chassis) earlier today, the guy even came to deliver it. He wanted $45 for it but I politely refused because the brightness was too bright even with OSD set at 0. And I knew that trinitrons had issues with brightness. The image otherwise was beautiful and straight as all trinitrons are, not even trace lines, so I guess it wasn't that bad of a case anyways.
What I didn't know though is that you could fix that issue. Wish I would've found this thread before I asked him to come out. I guess I'll have to call him back, maybe I could lowball him a little because it has been listed for a a while (craigslist). I'll probably be picking it up this time though, lol.
Anyways, I'm looking to get my cable assembled because I definately planning on buying a trinitron based monitor soon, they're just too damn nice. And know that I know I can probably fix their most common issue... Yep.
I found this interesting piece of hardware on ebay.
search "USB to RS232 Module Based TTL PC FTDI FT232BM/BL chip"
Its a usb virtual serial port with direct pin outs for TTL. How neat is that? I'll probably go with a classic cable just to be safe... But this would definately be an interesting mod for more serious users.
A tiny thing like that could easily mod into the case. Then you would just need to hook up your usb cable and fire on WinDAS whenever you felt like making an adjustment. I saw some other guy had cut a big hole to hook it up with, but this seems much nicer it it works.
And whats this about that automatic OSD recalibration in the color menu? I think the guy selling the monitor was trying to access it, but the monitor was only on for 5 minutes so it never warmed (said it was locked until it warmed up).
Hi. I found this thread by Google and I think if anyone can help me here it would be you guys.
My P1110 recently went insane. This afternoon I was just browsing the web and suddenly the OSD came up while the Right/Contrast icon kept flashing. At first I thought the button had become stuck, a mechanical fault or something. Nope. Infact the entire button interface seems to have flat out gone bonkers. The buttons have magically rewritten themselves even
Right/Contrast Button: Either works or does nothing, hard to tell for obviously reason.
Left/Contrast Button: Works Fine
OSD Button: Works as the Left/Contrast Button
Up/Brightness Button: Brings up the Menu OSD
Down/Brightness Button: Acts as the Up/Contrast button
Auto-Adjust Button: Also acts as the Up/Contrast button
Reset Button: Acts as the Down/Contrast button
Additionally, the machine will not memorize any setting changes UNLESS power is pressed while the menu OSD is on screen. Otherwise it goes back to what ever it last memorized when the menu OSD was on and power was pressed. The closest thing I can do to solve this right now is to button smash my way into the menu and enable the button lock but I can't get it to memorize the button lock of power is pressed, the resolution/refresh rate is changed or if it goes into sleep mode.
So... Any ideas? Cause this makes no sense to me. I disassembled it and looked at the button interface. It seems to be just fine. With the plug pulled from the card, the monitor suddenly thinks the LEFT Contrast button is stuck instead.
...Right now, I'm looking as used item sites to locate a replacement cause this new madness, it seems like it'd be easier to find another one than fix it.
Hi. I found this thread by Google and I think if anyone can help me here it would be you guys.
My P1110 recently went insane. This afternoon I was just browsing the web and suddenly the OSD came up while the Right/Contrast icon kept flashing. At first I thought the button had become stuck, a mechanical fault or something. Nope. Infact the entire button interface seems to have flat out gone bonkers. The buttons have magically rewritten themselves even
Right/Contrast Button: Either works or does nothing, hard to tell for obviously reason.
Left/Contrast Button: Works Fine
OSD Button: Works as the Left/Contrast Button
Up/Brightness Button: Brings up the Menu OSD
Down/Brightness Button: Acts as the Up/Contrast button
Auto-Adjust Button: Also acts as the Up/Contrast button
Reset Button: Acts as the Down/Contrast button
Additionally, the machine will not memorize any setting changes UNLESS power is pressed while the menu OSD is on screen. Otherwise it goes back to what ever it last memorized when the menu OSD was on and power was pressed. The closest thing I can do to solve this right now is to button smash my way into the menu and enable the button lock but I can't get it to memorize the button lock of power is pressed, the resolution/refresh rate is changed or if it goes into sleep mode.
So... Any ideas? Cause this makes no sense to me. I disassembled it and looked at the button interface. It seems to be just fine. With the plug pulled from the card, the monitor suddenly thinks the LEFT Contrast button is stuck instead.
...Right now, I'm looking as used item sites to locate a replacement cause this new madness, it seems like it'd be easier to find another one than fix it.
Not suggesting anything, but have you done any mods to it? I think it'd be a good idea to track such things. Have you done the resistor mod? Or gone poking around in there otherwise? Even to attach the TTL cable? Like I said, its probably just an old piece of hardware bugging out, but it'd be nice to know.
Additionally, it seems to have fixed itself, but I found a 'new' free P1110 online and the guy is delivering it tonight for $20 flat. I dunno how good the tube in that one will be of course. I don't entirely trust my current P1110, I mean, if it screwed up like that once there are decent odds it's just the first sign of it totally dieing.
Whoa!
I have to admit that this is the thread of all threads.
Must say thanks to all, especially P991DELLSONY, for your contributions including John Greg for the index.
Got hold of a Dell P1110 that was made back in 2000 but it was manufactured in Japan (rare nowadays).
I think it's a keeper despite it's age and 'too bright' issue.
Successfully installed WinDAS in 2 PCs with WinXP after following the twists and turns.
Just have to build the ECS cable; got to find a good electronics parts source that is cheap in Toronto (GTA).
Will post my success or failure.
PS.
I know I haven't asked or answered any questions; just wanted everyone to know that this thread is still helping to rescue perfectly good Sony based monitors.
Used a spare floppy power connector to connect to the ECS 4 pins on my
GDM-FW900 (from top to bottom, GND, V+, RXD, TXD). This according to the service manual.
WinDas installed on Computer 1.
COM connection is from Computer 1. Montior under test is attached to computer 2. Both on, both with screen display.
COM connection is COM1, manual. Monitor configured to GDM-FW900.
Closed and restarted WinDas (per previous notes).
Attempts to save the eprom data causes WinDas to crash. Attempting
to enable "expert" mode indicate communication cable error.
Switch RXD and TXD around just in case Sony was dyslexic in their service manual.
For those that have had similar problems, what did you do to isolate the issue?
It can be anything from the COM port (it's enabled in the BIOS), the ECS cable, WinDas (I followed instructions) to the ECS port not repsonding.
Once I get this working, I'll post my notes on the GDM-FW900.
I got the same cable and also can't connect (IBM 6552-63N / P270). Some say you must close the circuit by connecting pins or ends 4 (dtr) 6 (dsr) 8 (cts) together. Others caution that you only have moments to do all this before it won't accept input. I bought a second cable from a diff vendor to eliminate that - no diff. I'm at a loss. Going to install an older version of XP or even Win98 on a diff machine to see if that makes any difference.
Used a spare floppy power connector to connect to the ECS 4 pins on my
GDM-FW900 (from top to bottom, GND, V+, RXD, TXD). This according to the service manual.
WinDas installed on Computer 1.
COM connection is from Computer 1. Montior under test is attached to computer 2. Both on, both with screen display.
COM connection is COM1, manual. Monitor configured to GDM-FW900.
Closed and restarted WinDas (per previous notes).
Attempts to save the eprom data causes WinDas to crash. Attempting
to enable "expert" mode indicate communication cable error.
Switch RXD and TXD around just in case Sony was dyslexic in their service manual.
For those that have had similar problems, what did you do to isolate the issue?
It can be anything from the COM port (it's enabled in the BIOS), the ECS cable, WinDas (I followed instructions) to the ECS port not repsonding.
Once I get this working, I'll post my notes on the GDM-FW900.
I recall once reading somewhere that using the DVI input will circumvent the problems. Anyone have any experience or input on that possiblity?
Thanks
Dave
Hi everybody. First time poster. I've read through this thread and learned a whole lot about these Sony monitor problems. Thanks to everyone who's been kind enough to share their knowledge.
I've been using a Sony (rebadged SGI) FW900 for a number of years now. It's gets calibrated regularly, but I noticed over the last couple of calibration cycles not being able to get the Black Point down to where it should be. Classic "too bright" problem I guess. I read through all the WinDAS info and ordered a cable. My question is whether I'm too far gone to go this route and should consider a repair. Even at a setting of 0 (zero) on Brightness the BP on the monitor reads ~7 cd/m^2. As I siad this degredation started maybe about 1 year ago but has gotten to this point. Is it worth doing the WinDAS adjustment? Or should I expect this to continue to degrade until a repair will have to be made anyway?
I finally got around to building the ECS cable last weekend after I purchased a $5 breadboard and used spare parts at my disposal. I now have a brightness/contrast setting of 30/50 after re-configuring my G2 value from 178 to 120. Got a scare at one point when I changed the G2 value to 90 and the Dell P1110 monitor went blank and stayed dead until I shut it off, restarted the PC and reloaded a previously saved setting. Thought I had toasted my monitor but I suspect that my editing dropped a character when I changed my setting from 110 to 90 instead of 090. Now the colours are nice and vibrant again and the monitor is like new.
The only thing that I noticed was different from my situation is that the layout of the TTL header pins at the back of the Dell P1110 from top to bottom is as follows:
GND
VCC (+5)
RXD
TXD
I came to this conclusion when I had to switch the transmit and receive pins around in order for things to work.
I didn't have to do any soldering and simply used various lengths of 22 guage solid copper wiring to connect the PC and the monitor to the breadboard.
The monitor was attached to the breadboard with a couple pairs of the small cables used to attach blinking LEDs in PC casings to motherboards. This worked nicely because the connectors at the end of the cables fit perfectly to the TTL header pins at the back of the monitor as well as accepting the 22 gauge wire snugly.
The PC was attached to the breadboard using a female DB9 connector that had a cable extension attached to it with a female header pin block which accepted the 22 gauge wire nicely. Thus, with the right size connectors I simply used the 22 gauge solid copper wiring to connect everything together.
Whoa!
I have to admit that this is the thread of all threads.
Must say thanks to all, especially P991DELLSONY, for your contributions including John Greg for the index.
Got hold of a Dell P1110 that was made back in 2000 but it was manufactured in Japan (rare nowadays).
I think it's a keeper despite it's age and 'too bright' issue.
Successfully installed WinDAS in 2 PCs with WinXP after following the twists and turns.
Just have to build the ECS cable; got to find a good electronics parts source that is cheap in Toronto (GTA).
Will post my success or failure.
PS.
I know I haven't asked or answered any questions; just wanted everyone to know that this thread is still helping to rescue perfectly good Sony based monitors.
I've got something new going on with my monitor - wondering if anyone else has experienced this, knows what it is due to, if there is any fix or anything I can do (hardware or software-wise) to correct this, or if my monitor is just dying a slow death, or what.
I usually leave my PC on all night hammering away at something or other but turn the monitor off to save electricity. Used to be when I turned the monitor back on the next day it might take maybe 15 seconds to wakeup. Now though it takes more like 15 minutes (well it seems like 15 minutes when I am sitting in front of it staring at a blank screen - probably more like 4-5 minutes I guess but I haven't timed it).
Instead of the power indicator turning solid green immediately like it used to do then the screen waking up, now the power indicator just flashes green for several minutes before it goes solid & the monitor then comes on.
Oh well, looks like it is time to retire this monitor. I left it on for over an hour but still no go this morning, the power light just blinks green instead of going solid and turning on. I don't know what's wrong with it.
When it was working I really liked it though, especially since I got it for a great price (free!), and did all that work on it like adding resistors and then messing with Windas, as in this thread.
Since these monitors supposedly turn up cheap for various reasons (like folks who get rid of them because they don't know about fixing the overbright problem) I've decided to try to find another one. Also I need the dual input feature this one has so I can switch between PCs so that's another reason to get another one like this.
So now I'm on a quest to find another one. If anyone has any suggestions (or looking to get rid of one) please let me know. I'll hold onto this one for a little awhile in case I come across any hints as to how to fix its starting up problem though.....going back to a nonflat screen now is really really wierd, I feel like my eyes are warped or something!
The problem with this one seems to be more related to the CONTRAST than the G2 setting for brightness. I am futzing around with it with WINDAS and can get it much better looking (was originally very washed out) but I can't find a good middle ground between too light and too dark.
Any recommended settings to use in WINDAS (or in general) for a contrast issue? I will re-read this thread again since it has been so long that I have revisted it but thought I would ask too....
I only played around with the G2 setting using the black box image from P991 DELL SONY that contains the hidden messages or so it seems. I figured that if I could adjust the brightness/contract settings to get the darkest black while trying to see the messages things were set right. However, I had to compromise and settle for a black color that was pretty dark in order to see the messages. In the end I settled with a pretty dark black at the expense of seeing the 2nd message ever so barely and seeing a hint of the 3rd message but not being able to read it. I think this is pretty good considering that probably only a brand new monitor tuned perfectly would see all 3 messages pretty clearly.
All in all I'm extremely satisfied with the results; especially the brilliant colors.
The problem with this one seems to be more related to the CONTRAST than the G2 setting for brightness. I am futzing around with it with WINDAS and can get it much better looking (was originally very washed out) but I can't find a good middle ground between too light and too dark.
Any recommended settings to use in WINDAS (or in general) for a contrast issue? I will re-read this thread again since it has been so long that I have revisted it but thought I would ask too....
I only played around with the G2 setting using the black box image from P991 DELL SONY that contains the hidden messages or so it seems. I figured that if I could adjust the brightness/contract settings to get the darkest black while trying to see the messages things were set right. However, I had to compromise and settle for a black color that was pretty dark in order to see the messages. In the end I settled with a pretty dark black at the expense of seeing the 2nd message ever so barely and seeing a hint of the 3rd message but not being able to read it. I think this is pretty good considering that probably only a brand new monitor tuned perfectly would see all 3 messages pretty clearly.
All in all I'm extremely satisfied with the results; especially the brilliant colors.
congrats! i will have to look for that part of the thread with the balck box image thingee - i reread some of this earlier but didn't see that
i think i have my new monitor looking pretty good now but i'm sure it could be better; i noticed if i switched from the builtin MENU setting for COLOR from "expert" to "easy" it looks a lot better - i know that is just luck as far as what the easy settings were vs the expert ones but until i figure out (or remember from my old monitor) what it all means i'm sticking with what i have now
wondering as far as my old monitor which i can't power up anymore - are there any useful parts i should consider salvaging from that rather than just tossing it out? or maybe somewhere up here wants it (you'd have to come to my house to get it!)
After almost two years, it is time for me to adjust my FW900 again. I still have the cable I built, but I am using a different computer. WinDAS keeps crashing when I try to back up my DAT file, complaining about some MFC business. I tried replacing my Mfc42.dll file, which worked for someone else in this thread a long time ago, but it isn't working for me. Has anyone else been able to fix a crashing WinDAS?
hello
i just had the chance to read this thread because i realy need a solution to my monitor.
i'm using compaq p1100 for more than 4 years and i dont remember turning it off unless there is a blackout.
the problem now with my monitor is exactly whats been described through this thread, over brightness, retrace lines,long warm-up time(about 5min).
local technicians is nothing more than a trash, all they can say is that the tube is damaged and need to be replaced.
i ran through the web into some tips to how repair over brightness and long warm-up time as follow:
:thumbup
Dell Ultrascan 21 inch monitor model P1110 Symptoms: Excessive brightness. Solution: Soldered a 10M high voltage resistor in parallel with one of the two existing 10M resistors leading to the G2 pin on the little board on the neck of the CRT. This effectively made the resistance 5M. After this mod, it was noticed that the monitor took a long time to warm up...around 60 seconds before a picture would appear. C685 on the power supply board (10V 100uF) was high ESR and was replaced. Monitor warmup time was around 15 seconds thereafter.
:thumbup
from my monitor manual i found the same capacitor and resistors and i don't know if the above tip will work on my monitor or not. this is an important part for me....
recently i just faced another problem with my monitor , the color heat is fluctuate and its range from 8000k-11000k.
another describtion to this problem is that the white color change from absolute white to light grey in 10 sec interval.
i hope someone can help me with this problem and tell me what exactly i need to replace inside the monitor or what to use.
my monitor is realy precious to me and i dont intend to through it away.
If you're asking which IC chips can be used for the "Cable" device with the WinDas software then there are many.
However, I believe that the two you mentioned below are pretty common with the former requiring additional capacitors to complete the "Cable" device while the latter requires no additional components other than the IC chip. Of course both require wires and connectors to hook-up the "Cable" device to the monitor and computer.
After almost two years, it is time for me to adjust my FW900 again. I still have the cable I built, but I am using a different computer. WinDAS keeps crashing when I try to back up my DAT file, complaining about some MFC business. I tried replacing my Mfc42.dll file, which worked for someone else in this thread a long time ago, but it isn't working for me. Has anyone else been able to fix a crashing WinDAS?
Compare and contrast the attached marked-up circuit diagrams. It appears the modified resistances must be lower than standard value to reduce brightness.
Please refer to other threads in this forum for information, Thanks.
Thanks for the information. I used it to fix my P992.
First, I opened the monitor, and clipped the 22M resistor off.
Then I clipped a little hole in the bottom shielding, and replaced the 22M resistor with a combination of resistors that equaled 16.6M. I tried several combinations, but eventually ended up with a 10M in series with a 10M and a 20M in parallel.
I then put the monitor back together, and let the other shielding cover the easy access hole I made.
You could also leave the 22M resistor in place, and just hook up something like a 70M resistor in parallel, but I did not have anything like that on hand.
Edit: I was going to use WinDAS with the P992 like I do with my P1110, but I heard a lot of people had problems with it. I figured going the resistor mod route would be the safer option.
Update: I got sick of trying to pick the exact resistor I needed, so I just put a 22M resistor back in and hooked my P992 up to my laptop and used WinDAS. It worked great. I don't know why other people were having problems with the P992 and WinDAS.
Edit: I did need to do this to unlock the onscreen controls:
After the interface is connected to the monitor and the COM port, start WinDAS, backup the existing DAT file, and then load the corrected DAT file. Once the corrected DAT file is loaded, go to "Adjustments", then click on "Procedure", and then on "Final setting"; and once WinDAS confirms the input signal of 1600x1200, click OK, then as soon as the program ask you "Do you set the final values"?, then click OK, then exit WinDAS.
Without touching none of the OSD buttons, power down the monitor, and turn it off, then disconnet the interface. Wait for 3-5 minutes, then turn the unit back on, and the OSD should be unlocked.
The issue is I was not telling WinDAS to save the final setting values into the DAT file and to the EEPROM BEFORE exiting WinDAS, and that was the reason why the OSD locked up.
Update: I got sick of trying to pick the exact resistor I needed, so I just put a 22M resistor back in and hooked my P992 up to my laptop and used WinDAS. It worked great. I don't know why other people were having problems with the P992 and WinDAS.
the problem people encountered wasn't with windas exactly.
the problems mainly was messing with the dat file without having a backup, or error in the cable it self, or not using proper editor.
otherwise it should work perfectly.
i for my self want to use windas but i couldn't find proper cable, and local stores charge unresonable price for the ic max232(about $8), so i stuck with using resistors.
anyway i have a problem.
my monitor is compaq p1100, it has two vga inputs, the second input is working fine but when using the first input the brightness seems to fluctuate, and its very annoying, the monitor has a light sensor too but even when the sensor is turned off the problem still exist.
i have been told that the transistor that control the brightness need to be changed, and frankly i dont know where this transistor locate.
if anyone know the solution for this problem or can determin where this transistor is located reply to me.
click here for the schematic diagram.
thanks
Hello fellow trinitron fans, I've also got the usual overbright problem, I'm starting to see raster lines on dark areas and the usual contrast problems and lack of decent color depth.
I've decided to go the breadboard and spare wire route with mine, buuut circuit diagrams are a little foreign to me. Does anyone know of a good illustrated tutorial for hooking a max232 and 5 1uf caps up? I can figure out the breadboard's on my own, I just need to know how exactly it all comes together, what plugs in to what and where.
Done! I had some difficulty working out everything on the breadboard but eventually I got it, using almost no jumpers too. I'll put together an easy MSpaint diagram of the layout later (the max and hin232's seem to have the same layout). I only used 4 1uf capacitors and I hacked my cords out of cat5's for long reach.
Taking the g2 from 198 down to 150, the monitor's amazingly better even with p260's being unable to do dynamic convergence. If anything I'm wondering if I might have turned it down a bit too much since some darker webpages are now a bit over-dark, but since everything else seems to be just fine and I've still got some leeway with software tweaking I think i'mo leave it.
So i have been reading until my eyes started bleeding. ;P
Very good thread very helpful just wanted to say thanks
I have one problem i have not been able to find the answer to.
I have a Dell P1110 i did the resistor mod until i was able to order the parts up for the Windas soft.
I went in and got it all working lowed the G2 but the problem is when i remove the resistor mod it will turn on very bright then wash out all white then it turns it self off like its going in to protecting mode.
I have set the G2 from 206 down to 160 then down to 100 with the same problem. It just washes out after about 15 seconds of it being on.
Update: I got sick of trying to pick the exact resistor I needed, so I just put a 22M resistor back in and hooked my P992 up to my laptop and used WinDAS. It worked great. I don't know why other people were having problems with the P992 and WinDAS.
Edit: I did need to do this to unlock the onscreen controls:
Hi,
I've just looked inside my P992 now. And looked at all the options..........
(1)I found RV901 (full of sealer). I carefully dug it out and twiddled, but this adjustment did not affect the brightness issue, only picture size as far as I could see. So anybody else thinking of this needn't bother.
(2)So I cut the shielding to do the mod,(as photos just above) but selecting the right resistor seems problematic....and why do I have to have 2 in series?? (Can't I buy an 18M?)
I presume 22M means 22MegOhms?
(3)So, I've decide to try the Windas route, and I've downloaded the software.
But I need intructions as to:-
(a)Build the exact lead I need for a Dell P992(I find all the terminology perplexing)
OR
(b)Buy the exact lead I need (in UK) at a reasonable price?
AND
(c)How do I find the COM port in my PC (Dell Dimension 4100)?
I got a Dell P1110 very cheaply ... should've know something would be amiss ... so I started to google my problem and found this site.
Before I do the resistor mod, I would like to know if it will solve other problems too. It might be in this huuuuge thread somewhere, but I got to page 10 and found no mention of it.
So here goes.
Aside from the fact that it's way to bright, it also seems like the image on the monitor is a little off to the left. By about 1/2cm ... And the left upper corner looks out of focus.
Would changing the resistor help me at all ?
Or am I better off getting another monitor ?
Comments
My P1110 recently went insane. This afternoon I was just browsing the web and suddenly the OSD came up while the Right/Contrast icon kept flashing. At first I thought the button had become stuck, a mechanical fault or something. Nope. Infact the entire button interface seems to have flat out gone bonkers. The buttons have magically rewritten themselves even
Right/Contrast Button: Either works or does nothing, hard to tell for obviously reason.
Left/Contrast Button: Works Fine
OSD Button: Works as the Left/Contrast Button
Up/Brightness Button: Brings up the Menu OSD
Down/Brightness Button: Acts as the Up/Contrast button
Auto-Adjust Button: Also acts as the Up/Contrast button
Reset Button: Acts as the Down/Contrast button
Additionally, the machine will not memorize any setting changes UNLESS power is pressed while the menu OSD is on screen. Otherwise it goes back to what ever it last memorized when the menu OSD was on and power was pressed. The closest thing I can do to solve this right now is to button smash my way into the menu and enable the button lock but I can't get it to memorize the button lock of power is pressed, the resolution/refresh rate is changed or if it goes into sleep mode.
So... Any ideas? Cause this makes no sense to me. I disassembled it and looked at the button interface. It seems to be just fine. With the plug pulled from the card, the monitor suddenly thinks the LEFT Contrast button is stuck instead.
...Right now, I'm looking as used item sites to locate a replacement cause this new madness, it seems like it'd be easier to find another one than fix it.
Not suggesting anything, but have you done any mods to it? I think it'd be a good idea to track such things. Have you done the resistor mod? Or gone poking around in there otherwise? Even to attach the TTL cable? Like I said, its probably just an old piece of hardware bugging out, but it'd be nice to know.
Additionally, it seems to have fixed itself, but I found a 'new' free P1110 online and the guy is delivering it tonight for $20 flat. I dunno how good the tube in that one will be of course. I don't entirely trust my current P1110, I mean, if it screwed up like that once there are decent odds it's just the first sign of it totally dieing.
If not... A pair of P1110's on my desk! Woo!
I have to admit that this is the thread of all threads.
Must say thanks to all, especially P991DELLSONY, for your contributions including John Greg for the index.
Got hold of a Dell P1110 that was made back in 2000 but it was manufactured in Japan (rare nowadays).
I think it's a keeper despite it's age and 'too bright' issue.
Successfully installed WinDAS in 2 PCs with WinXP after following the twists and turns.
Just have to build the ECS cable; got to find a good electronics parts source that is cheap in Toronto (GTA).
Will post my success or failure.
PS.
I know I haven't asked or answered any questions; just wanted everyone to know that this thread is still helping to rescue perfectly good Sony based monitors.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=150289019203
Used a spare floppy power connector to connect to the ECS 4 pins on my
GDM-FW900 (from top to bottom, GND, V+, RXD, TXD). This according to the service manual.
WinDas installed on Computer 1.
COM connection is from Computer 1. Montior under test is attached to computer 2. Both on, both with screen display.
COM connection is COM1, manual. Monitor configured to GDM-FW900.
Closed and restarted WinDas (per previous notes).
Attempts to save the eprom data causes WinDas to crash. Attempting
to enable "expert" mode indicate communication cable error.
Switch RXD and TXD around just in case Sony was dyslexic in their service manual.
For those that have had similar problems, what did you do to isolate the issue?
It can be anything from the COM port (it's enabled in the BIOS), the ECS cable, WinDas (I followed instructions) to the ECS port not repsonding.
Once I get this working, I'll post my notes on the GDM-FW900.
Thanks
Dave
I've been using a Sony (rebadged SGI) FW900 for a number of years now. It's gets calibrated regularly, but I noticed over the last couple of calibration cycles not being able to get the Black Point down to where it should be. Classic "too bright" problem I guess. I read through all the WinDAS info and ordered a cable. My question is whether I'm too far gone to go this route and should consider a repair. Even at a setting of 0 (zero) on Brightness the BP on the monitor reads ~7 cd/m^2. As I siad this degredation started maybe about 1 year ago but has gotten to this point. Is it worth doing the WinDAS adjustment? Or should I expect this to continue to degrade until a repair will have to be made anyway?
I basically followed the instructions in the following URL to the letter because it was the same as what I had with regards to the parts:
http://www.myblog.bloggybloggy.com/hacking-monitor-to-fix-too-bright-screens-26-09-2007/
The only thing that I noticed was different from my situation is that the layout of the TTL header pins at the back of the Dell P1110 from top to bottom is as follows:
GND
VCC (+5)
RXD
TXD
I came to this conclusion when I had to switch the transmit and receive pins around in order for things to work.
I didn't have to do any soldering and simply used various lengths of 22 guage solid copper wiring to connect the PC and the monitor to the breadboard.
The monitor was attached to the breadboard with a couple pairs of the small cables used to attach blinking LEDs in PC casings to motherboards. This worked nicely because the connectors at the end of the cables fit perfectly to the TTL header pins at the back of the monitor as well as accepting the 22 gauge wire snugly.
The PC was attached to the breadboard using a female DB9 connector that had a cable extension attached to it with a female header pin block which accepted the 22 gauge wire nicely. Thus, with the right size connectors I simply used the 22 gauge solid copper wiring to connect everything together.
Thanks again to all.
=======================================================
I usually leave my PC on all night hammering away at something or other but turn the monitor off to save electricity. Used to be when I turned the monitor back on the next day it might take maybe 15 seconds to wakeup. Now though it takes more like 15 minutes (well it seems like 15 minutes when I am sitting in front of it staring at a blank screen - probably more like 4-5 minutes I guess but I haven't timed it).
Instead of the power indicator turning solid green immediately like it used to do then the screen waking up, now the power indicator just flashes green for several minutes before it goes solid & the monitor then comes on.
Any ideas/comments/suggestions?? THANKS.
When it was working I really liked it though, especially since I got it for a great price (free!), and did all that work on it like adding resistors and then messing with Windas, as in this thread.
Since these monitors supposedly turn up cheap for various reasons (like folks who get rid of them because they don't know about fixing the overbright problem) I've decided to try to find another one. Also I need the dual input feature this one has so I can switch between PCs so that's another reason to get another one like this.
So now I'm on a quest to find another one. If anyone has any suggestions (or looking to get rid of one) please let me know. I'll hold onto this one for a little awhile in case I come across any hints as to how to fix its starting up problem though.....going back to a nonflat screen now is really really wierd, I feel like my eyes are warped or something!
The problem with this one seems to be more related to the CONTRAST than the G2 setting for brightness. I am futzing around with it with WINDAS and can get it much better looking (was originally very washed out) but I can't find a good middle ground between too light and too dark.
Any recommended settings to use in WINDAS (or in general) for a contrast issue? I will re-read this thread again since it has been so long that I have revisted it but thought I would ask too....
I only played around with the G2 setting using the black box image from P991 DELL SONY that contains the hidden messages or so it seems. I figured that if I could adjust the brightness/contract settings to get the darkest black while trying to see the messages things were set right. However, I had to compromise and settle for a black color that was pretty dark in order to see the messages. In the end I settled with a pretty dark black at the expense of seeing the 2nd message ever so barely and seeing a hint of the 3rd message but not being able to read it. I think this is pretty good considering that probably only a brand new monitor tuned perfectly would see all 3 messages pretty clearly.
All in all I'm extremely satisfied with the results; especially the brilliant colors.
congrats! i will have to look for that part of the thread with the balck box image thingee - i reread some of this earlier but didn't see that
i think i have my new monitor looking pretty good now but i'm sure it could be better; i noticed if i switched from the builtin MENU setting for COLOR from "expert" to "easy" it looks a lot better - i know that is just luck as far as what the easy settings were vs the expert ones but until i figure out (or remember from my old monitor) what it all means i'm sticking with what i have now
wondering as far as my old monitor which i can't power up anymore - are there any useful parts i should consider salvaging from that rather than just tossing it out? or maybe somewhere up here wants it (you'd have to come to my house to get it!)
cheers
Thanks,
Chris
i just had the chance to read this thread because i realy need a solution to my monitor.
i'm using compaq p1100 for more than 4 years and i dont remember turning it off unless there is a blackout.
the problem now with my monitor is exactly whats been described through this thread, over brightness, retrace lines,long warm-up time(about 5min).
local technicians is nothing more than a trash, all they can say is that the tube is damaged and need to be replaced.
i ran through the web into some tips to how repair over brightness and long warm-up time as follow:
:thumbup
Dell Ultrascan 21 inch monitor model P1110 Symptoms: Excessive brightness. Solution: Soldered a 10M high voltage resistor in parallel with one of the two existing 10M resistors leading to the G2 pin on the little board on the neck of the CRT. This effectively made the resistance 5M. After this mod, it was noticed that the monitor took a long time to warm up...around 60 seconds before a picture would appear. C685 on the power supply board (10V 100uF) was high ESR and was replaced. Monitor warmup time was around 15 seconds thereafter.
:thumbup
from my monitor manual i found the same capacitor and resistors and i don't know if the above tip will work on my monitor or not.
recently i just faced another problem with my monitor , the color heat is fluctuate and its range from 8000k-11000k.
another describtion to this problem is that the white color change from absolute white to light grey in 10 sec interval.
i hope someone can help me with this problem and tell me what exactly i need to replace inside the monitor or what to use.
my monitor is realy precious to me and i dont intend to through it away.
just need to know what all the substitutes for the ic max232 or max233 can i use for the cable.
However, I believe that the two you mentioned below are pretty common with the former requiring additional capacitors to complete the "Cable" device while the latter requires no additional components other than the IC chip. Of course both require wires and connectors to hook-up the "Cable" device to the monitor and computer.
I fixed my monitor using the instructions from the following link which utilizes the MAX233 chip:
http://www.myblog.bloggybloggy.com/h...ns-26-09-2007/
Hopes this helps.
http://cgi.ebay.com/RS232-Serial-Port-To-TTL-Converter-Module-MAX3232-LED_W0QQitemZ300276853752QQcmdZViewItemQQptZBI_Electronic_Components?hash=item300276853752&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=72%3A1205|66%3A2|65%3A12|39%3A1|240%3A1318
Thanks for the information. I used it to fix my P992.
First, I opened the monitor, and clipped the 22M resistor off.
Then I clipped a little hole in the bottom shielding, and replaced the 22M resistor with a combination of resistors that equaled 16.6M. I tried several combinations, but eventually ended up with a 10M in series with a 10M and a 20M in parallel.
I then put the monitor back together, and let the other shielding cover the easy access hole I made.
You could also leave the 22M resistor in place, and just hook up something like a 70M resistor in parallel, but I did not have anything like that on hand.
Edit: I was going to use WinDAS with the P992 like I do with my P1110, but I heard a lot of people had problems with it. I figured going the resistor mod route would be the safer option.
Edit: I did need to do this to unlock the onscreen controls:
the problem people encountered wasn't with windas exactly.
the problems mainly was messing with the dat file without having a backup, or error in the cable it self, or not using proper editor.
otherwise it should work perfectly.
i for my self want to use windas but i couldn't find proper cable, and local stores charge unresonable price for the ic max232(about $8), so i stuck with using resistors.
anyway i have a problem.
my monitor is compaq p1100, it has two vga inputs, the second input is working fine but when using the first input the brightness seems to fluctuate, and its very annoying, the monitor has a light sensor too but even when the sensor is turned off the problem still exist.
i have been told that the transistor that control the brightness need to be changed, and frankly i dont know where this transistor locate.
if anyone know the solution for this problem or can determin where this transistor is located reply to me.
click here for the schematic diagram.
thanks
I've decided to go the breadboard and spare wire route with mine, buuut circuit diagrams are a little foreign to me. Does anyone know of a good illustrated tutorial for hooking a max232 and 5 1uf caps up? I can figure out the breadboard's on my own, I just need to know how exactly it all comes together, what plugs in to what and where.
Taking the g2 from 198 down to 150, the monitor's amazingly better even with p260's being unable to do dynamic convergence. If anything I'm wondering if I might have turned it down a bit too much since some darker webpages are now a bit over-dark, but since everything else seems to be just fine and I've still got some leeway with software tweaking I think i'mo leave it.
Very good thread very helpful just wanted to say thanks
I have one problem i have not been able to find the answer to.
I have a Dell P1110 i did the resistor mod until i was able to order the parts up for the Windas soft.
I went in and got it all working lowed the G2 but the problem is when i remove the resistor mod it will turn on very bright then wash out all white then it turns it self off like its going in to protecting mode.
I have set the G2 from 206 down to 160 then down to 100 with the same problem. It just washes out after about 15 seconds of it being on.
Any ideas would be great if you guys could.
Hi,
I've just looked inside my P992 now. And looked at all the options..........
(1)I found RV901 (full of sealer). I carefully dug it out and twiddled, but this adjustment did not affect the brightness issue, only picture size as far as I could see. So anybody else thinking of this needn't bother.
(2)So I cut the shielding to do the mod,(as photos just above) but selecting the right resistor seems problematic....and why do I have to have 2 in series?? (Can't I buy an 18M?)
I presume 22M means 22MegOhms?
(3)So, I've decide to try the Windas route, and I've downloaded the software.
But I need intructions as to:-
(a)Build the exact lead I need for a Dell P992(I find all the terminology perplexing)
OR
(b)Buy the exact lead I need (in UK) at a reasonable price?
AND
(c)How do I find the COM port in my PC (Dell Dimension 4100)?
Thanks to you all for this geat thread
eljay
Before I do the resistor mod, I would like to know if it will solve other problems too. It might be in this huuuuge thread somewhere, but I got to page 10 and found no mention of it.
So here goes.
Aside from the fact that it's way to bright, it also seems like the image on the monitor is a little off to the left. By about 1/2cm ... And the left upper corner looks out of focus.
Would changing the resistor help me at all ?
Or am I better off getting another monitor ?
Thanks in advance.