(It appears I have started a Page 46.)
Here is a limited INDEX of this whole thread that I made for my own use. I read the 45 pages up to here in one (very long) sitting. Someone crazier than me is welcome to fill out this index more completely. I started out looking only for info on “convergence”. So, many of the most informative & significant posts for some people may not be chronicled in this list. Major topics I did NOT index in detail are:<O:p
---The brightness problem (the original reason for the thread!) and G2 voltage level discussions.<O:p
---The resistor fixes.<O:p
---Specific CRT monitor brands or model numbers.<O:p
---Links to places to BUY a connector cable for using WinDAS. (Though I listed most of the main references to MAKE a cable.)<O:p
<O:p</O:p
[I wish this Index could credit people by name---but alas, to keep it compact, posts are listed as “Page : Number of post”.]<O:p</O:p
<O:p</O:p
1:11 Sony part-numbers to make the connector cable from computer to monitor.<O:p</O:p
1:17 – 19 Warnings about high voltage inside CRT monitors. SEE also 3:57. 9:168. 24:472, 473. <O:p</O:p
3:56 – 58 Ghosting or shadow problem to right (need better video cable).<O:p</O:p
4:80 About “ActiveX Flexgrid” install.<O:p</O:p
5:81 Advice on making the connector cable. Also:<O:p</O:p
--9:169 – 172<O:p</O:p
--11:212 More about the chip & making a cable.<O:p</O:p
--11:215 Floppy drive connector.<O:p</O:p
--16:317 (photos & details). <O:p</O:p
--18:355 Brief “Troubleshooting” summary for WinDAS and converter cable. <O:p</O:p
--20:387 Color circuit board diagram of cable (printed circuit). ALSO 38:758 More circuit stuff.<O:p</O:p
--20:393 - 395 More circuit board pics (using DB9 connector & COM 1) and discussion.<O:p</O:p
--21:405 MAX323 chip (requires no capacitors). <O:p</O:p
--21:414 Connecting cable grounds through a resistor. SEE also 21:420 Shorting pins in the cable. <O:p</O:p
--28:547 – 549 More details of making cable, or fixing cables.<O:p</O:p
--39:762 - 770 More discussion of connector cables. RTS, CTS, TX, RX, Vcc, Ground. <O:p</O:p
--SEE also 43:848<O:p</O:p
--SEE also 43:854<O:p</O:p
--SEE also 43:856 <O:p</O:p
5:86 Removing the plastic case (cover) of a monitor. SEE also 9:161. <O:p</O:p
--SEE also 14:262 More on getting cover off & working on inside. ALSO 24:470, 472. Also 25:481.<O:p</O:p
7:132 Where to find the inner connector on a Dell P1110 monitor.<O:p</O:p
7:138 Warning about using “Image Restoration” on a Sony G500.<O:p</O:p
8:153 Anti- Shadow Mask monitor opinion. <O:p</O:p
8:156 Links to the DOS version (of DAS) and PDF guide to the software & cabling. <O:p</O:p
9:169 – 172 First real introduction of the DAS (Digital Alignment Software) system, and converter cable. <O:p</O:p
9:174 Discussion of “Focus” control (NOT convergence.)<O:p</O:p
10:196 Xweebie offers interface & files. /FONT]Note that this was August 2005.[FONT=MS Mincho<O:p</O:p
11:206 – 207 Screen changing size with brightness. ABL and ACL circuits.<O:p</O:p
11:207 Don’t need a signal generator or two computers to use WinDAS. <O:p</O:p
11:212 Screenshots from WinDAS & some How Tos.<O:p</O:p
11:213 Link to preliminary WinDAS How To.<O:p</O:p
11:215 Experience using WinDAS on Sony E400. Getting files to load into XP properly. Use an ATX floppy drive connector.<O:p</O:p
13:243 How to make sure to NOT lock the OSD in the process of changing settings.<O:p</O:p
14:279 Installing that missing .ocx file.<O:p</O:p
17:329 Modeline settings for DAS alignment WinDAS manual mode.<O:p</O:p
18:348 How to open & edit your WinDAS “DAT” file with old DOS “EDIT” program. <O:p</O:p
--SEE also 21:409, 416. <O:p</O:p
--23:452 – 456 Editing WinDAS data files. (23:458 DON”t use Notepad!)<O:p</O:p
--27:540 More editing.<O:p</O:p
--29:569 Use “Programmer’s Notepad”. Here: http://www.pnotepad.org/download/<O:p</O:p
18:355 Brief “Troubleshooting” summary for WinDAS and converter cable. <O:p</O:p
21:420 No Dynamic Convergence available in WinDAS in this case. (And 22:421.)<O:p</O:p
22:428 How to go through Dynamic Convergence process. <O:p</O:p
22:427 Sony GDM FW900 allowed Dynamic Convergence when updated WinDAS software.<O:p</O:p
22:439 A high G2 level can cause blooming (not focused).<O:p</O:p
22:429 The link to Dorian’s tips on WinDAS is broken. (It was: (http://people.aapt.net.au/~augen/win...monitor%20fix/)<O:p</O:p
24:471 - 472 Adjusting convergence. Adjusting “focus” on P1110.<O:p</O:p
24:473 Flyback transformer (FBT) description. <O:p</O:p
--ALSO 28:560 Also about focus using pots on P991 (SEE 27:540).<O:p</O:p
24:477 Color “purity” desciption. <O:p</O:p
27:526 In WinDAS, saving DATA in the midst of crashes or errors.<O:p</O:p
28:542 A Sony G-420 improved with “Image Restoration”. It had the brightness problem.<O:p</O:p
28:544 Monitor must be powered on & receiving a video signal to do adjustments.<O:p</O:p
29:569 An experience on WinDAS. ALSO 40:786 Another wrap-up of WinDAS experience.<O:p</O:p
30:584 Update & wrap-up on “How Tos” of WinDAS. <O:p</O:p
--Editing the DAT file. <O:p</O:p
--Dos DAS/ WinDAS Scripting Language<O:p</O:p
--Increasing Contrast<O:p</O:p
--ABL Circuit<O:p</O:p
--Hardware Problems<O:p</O:p
32:629 The whole “color balancing” procedure (this was in conjunction with “Colorvision Spyder 2”). Also:<O:p</O:p
--Test pattern HTML files: http://icrontic.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=21955&d=1165674633<O:p</O:p
--Nokia pattern generator: http://icrontic.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=21956&d=1165674654<O:p</O:p
34:662 XCV, XBV, knobs adjust convergence. What other controls do.<O:p</O:p
38:759 In WinDAS, “Don't touch Setup->config, or anything else under the Setup menu” within one instance.<O:p</O:p
40:786 Communicating with monitor when freshly switched on.<O:p</O:p
43:848 Using a USB connection for the connector cable. <O:p</O:p
--Making ECS Cable.<O:p</O:p
--Installing FTDI's USB serial Com port drivers<O:p</O:p
--Installing WinDAS<O:p</O:p
--Configure WinDas<O:p</O:p
--Prepare PC & monitor for connection<O:p</O:p
--Run WinDAS as Administrator!<O:p</O:p
--Changing the G2 or other values<O:p</O:p
--Links.<O:p</O:p
43:854 Another chip & way to construct/make the connetor cable. (Supposedly easiest.) “No need to translate TTL (monitor) levels to RS232 levels (serial port) in computer built after 1990.”<O:p</O:p
45:898 G2 Grid Voltage Control Circuit. Schematics & explanation of how G2 voltage works.<O:p</O:p
<O:p</O:p
Hi guys. I have a Sony Multiscan G520. It seems to have dynamic focus issues not convergence issues. I can adjust the focus on the flyback transformer, however this either brings the center into focus or the edges out of focus. I'm wondering if anyone has solved such a problem using the astro/windas software. Thanks.
Well, I got the answer to my question in Post #901, about adjusting individual convergence on a Sony G420. Here is the quote, from Luis A. Grunauer, Jr., expert on Sony monitors, replying to my question at "pdngallery.com/cgi-bin/ubb/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=006106;p=2" (Insert the usual "http" info into the previous quotes to get the URL.)
“Unfortunately, the convergence of the Red and Blue beams cannot be adjusted individually via Sony WinDAS. The only way that it can be done is by removing the case, and then performing the convergence "rough" adjustments by moving the pole magnets located at the neck of the picture tube. You would need a digital video signal generator for the crosshatch patters, the monitor's service manual and knowledge and/or experience on how to work on the inside of a CRT. Once this is performed, then run WinDAS to complete the dynamic convergence, which is the fine tuning alignment of the R, G, and B beams.
Hope this helps...
Sincerely, LAG, Jr. “
Compare and contrast the attached marked-up circuit diagrams. It appears the modified resistances must be lower than standard value to reduce brightness.
Please refer to other threads in this forum for information, Thanks.
Please guys, I would greatly appreciate if anyone could post some detailed photographs of the P992 Modification before and after with resistor values used.....I'm not game to attempt it without them :sad2:
What's the file size and version of your RegDLL ? (88k.. I don't have a copy of winDas available to check if this is correct)You need the exact one mentioned in my installation instructions. No other will work.
Most Google links say this error is caused by a corrupt DLL or an incorrect version.
I've done this on XP sp2, so it's likely not an XP related issue.
Let me know if you figure out how to solve it.
Hello P991
I finally got the program work. i fixed the bright issue a little but i think my monitor needs a professional calibration or fix. Still look redish . is any company that actually fix this kind of monitors? where? o is a bad idea send this monitor to fix/recalibrate?
Hi I have a Sony HMD-A440 19" CRT that is showing blacks as dark blue. I read about tryting the Windas adjustment software, but when I took the cover off of the monitor I dont see an obvious place to plug the RS232<>TTL cable in to. Where is the port? Will all sony monitors work with Windas, or only some?
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I just joined to thank you ppl. for a very informative site especially for this thread but alas I've given up.
I have the P1110 model and did the resistor fix and it was beautiful for two whole weeks.
The calliope has crashed to the ground.
I went to turn it on and got nothing but pops sputters and death. It seems the Tube is shot.
I've decided a tube replacement is out of the question so I'll join the ranks of the damned and buy an LCD display.
I will miss this gem and do plan to get another for the sake of a project.
Keep up the good work.
The failure was not the fault of the resistor mod but a bum tube.
I'm going with a 22" wide screen Dell so as not to sacrifice any screen space for my game gear.
Using the following equation helped me make this decision;
For 16:9:
w = .872d
h = .490d
where w = width, h = height, d = diagonal
For 16:10
w = .848d
h = .530d
with the 22" 16:10 screen I will get a better match for size when running 4:3 games or vids.
Hi to all, I have recently acquired a Sun FW9010, basically equiv. to Sony FW900.
The picture is generally good but I would like to make it as good as is possible.
I have WinDAS installed and working, but I don't want to adjust values I don't really understand.
Are there any dynamic convergence tutorials available anywhere? or even how to set brightness/contrast properly would be a good start.
Cheers.
I could not find an edit option for my above post, anyway, I have went ahead and performed dynamic convergence.
It was relatively straight forward, WinDAS is quite nice to work with.
Luckily I have my old monitor sitting here still and a dual port video card so was able to use dual view and display fullscreen patterns on the FW9010 and have WinDAS on the other.
I bypassed the INITIAL VALUE and OFFSET ADJUST.
I did not adjust the H/VAMP values either, only the H/VMC values which affected the horizontal and vertical convergence respectively.
The display is still not perfect, the blue gun is slightly off at the extreme left and right edges, it's certainly not bad enough to warrant touching the tube.
If I do ever come across a step by step refurb. guide I may well do the full set up. But currently I am very happy with image.
Many thanks to all who contributed in this DIY fix and P991 DELL SONY for his excellent Windas patching.
I have a Dell P1110 with overbright issue and got it fixed thanks to you guys. I have also made a template to make *.dat editing far more simpler and easier.
Warning: This template is only created for DELL P1110. Usage on other brand/model will absolutely corrupt your *.dat file!!
A few note
=============
a) Make sure you have a backup copy of your dat file before making any changes.
b) Open your dat file with winhex. Do not click anywhere on the main hex window and load the P1110 template using the above guide.
c) The Title column will give you the same Description and Value as in Windas Viewer eg. G2=150, DRV_MAX=210. Always counter check with Windas Viewer to make sure this template is suitable for your monitor.
d) Do not edit the data without any Description.
e) Most data will have 3 digits but some will have 4 digits. If you want to change a 3 digits to 2 digits you must put a blank space in front of it eg. " 90", " 57" without the quote. "57" wrong, " 57" correct.
f) For 2 digits to 3 digits eg. " 89" will become "120". Make sure you delete the empty space in front the _89 before you key in 120. 2digits to 2digits " 89" to " 55" , not "55".
g) For 4 digits samething as well eg. "1250" will become " 250" (1 space in front) or " 50"(2 space in front)
h) If you notice your setting has 3 digits with space in front " 895", that means it can store up to 4 digits.
i) You have to maintain the same data structure or else the offset will be wrong.
I recently tried the Windas fix to the brightness problem on my Dell P991. I only reduced the G2 seeting by 4, and when I loaded the new settings, the monitor went blank and hasn't come back on. When I power on the monitor, the LED turns green for a moment, thens goes blank. I tried to return to the factory settings with out success.
Does anyone have an idea that might help me? It looks like I screwed up.
Thanks for all the information this site has been a godsend.
I have to share with you my good fortune, recently I became the
proud owner of three SGI branded GDM-FW900 series monitors and an SGI
90W11 all free . I want to calibrate these wonderful monitors and saw
this cable on ebay after reading this informative thread.
Does that look like a good cable? I see each path is separated. After reading previous posts it seems I should only be concerned with VCC, RX, TX and Ground. Any thoughts and comments would be appreciated. And again thanks for all the knowledge and information you people have brought.
That's the cable I bought for my P1110 and it worked for me. It's a PITA to get those tiny little connectors throught the access port in the back though.
well this is a bit of an epic tread i came across while digging for info on my FW900. hope maybe i can get a little advice here.
my monitor has been great for a while now but over the past ~3 weeks it has degraded a lot.
it began with the focus i believe (convergence maybe?) going out then slowly coming back and instantly going out again until there was a good pop from the back and it would then be perfectly fine for the rest of the time it was on.
then 2 days ago it would not come back at all, staying blurry. turning the monitor off and then each time turning it back on it would start focused then go out but never come back on its own anymore. until eventually on one start it stayed from power on and never went out of focus. yesterday it was fine all night, but..
tonight it has been completely out. i walked in, turned the comp and monitor on, heard the usual monitor power on click and buzz then as i walked out of the room i heard it click again. it had gone off with a 2 flash amber light.
cycled power again and the whole screen was a neon green with a very distinct green spiral scan line going down.
this time it also did the improvement by cycling power until it warmed up.
except the color is off. whites are not white, blues are more of an aqua and i cannot get a true red or purple (the standard deep purple in the windows 20 square appearance choices). it is a constant washed out look.
brightness in the 20-25 range seems best and contrast quite high to make it look remotely decent.
so now to the point.. hoping my description is good enough..
is this something unfixable or something that can be tweaked on?
it would seem to me to be either a color dying (not sure how that is specifically controlled) or a power supply / solder joint going out.
sorry for such a long first post just trolling for help , but very grateful for any i can get.
im scared what will happen tomorrow when i turn it on. it never gets worse until it sits. it really seems i could never turn it off and it wouldn't change.
I was thinking about buying the below kit in the howto, but it doesn't come with the cables required. I don't have an old case lying around I can rip the 'reset' and 'on LED' cables out of. Can someone tell me what these cables are called so that I can figure out where to buy them? Thanks.
Update 07/07/07:
S.Winston has notified me that a kit costing $6.99 + $3.00 S/H contains everything needed. The wires that connect the 'reset' and 'on LED' of an old PC fit both the header pins on both the monitor and this kit nicely.
It can be found by searching for 'RS232 to TTL 5V converter board KIT' on ebay. Or you can check out the kit being sold here:http://www.nkcelectronics.com/rs232-to-ttl-5v-converter.html
This is substantially cheaper with almost negligible increase in difficulty.
Yes, the list was of the improved components, I didn't list the originals. Infact, the service bulletin didn't either, I'd have to look into the parts list to see what they were.
Are the parts expensive? I'd imagine shipping would be most of the cost, but I haven't looked them up.
De-soldering and soldering small surface mount stuff is a pain.
I have now bought a decent soldering iron and practised with some surface mount components but I cant find most of the ones you mentioned apart form the last (which is en route from Digi-Key). Any suggestions as to a source?
Hi! Sorry noob here, I'm considering the purchase of either a Sony or Sun 24" CRT and have read about a few of the fixable problems and ended up here.
I understand the software and components required (just!) but am a bit concerned because I plan to use it as a display for my laptop, my laptop having no Serial Link. So can I calibrate the monitor on a friends machine and then use it with my laptop? Or does it have be connected permanently via Serial for the software to work?
Thanks for any help, and will begin re-reading this thread now seeing what I missed! Cheers!
Hello all, to let you know where I'm having a bit of trouble, I installed the windas, I have downloaded and followed all the directions for obtaining teh various .dll files, & ran the active x instructions. But when I try to run windas I get a few errors, first one says astro sg not is used, check config. then another pop box with astro sg communication error, then the final error pop up box astro sg timing setup error, then goes to the window, error no .mdl. Please if anyone knows what the problem is help out, I woudl greatly appreciate as I have ordered the wire to get the brightness down on my 21 in ibm p260 which has the sony trinitron tube. It would be awesome if I could get this to work as I have another 5 dell 19" sony monitors I could fix as well. thanks in advance! I greatly apreciate any help.
it doesn't need to be permanently connected with the serial cable!
just do the setting and it will stay in the monitor EPROM, won't be deleted by turning it off
Hi yall...I picked up a Dell P1110 free off of Craigslist. When I did a web search to see what it was before I picked it up, I found this thread. Mine was indeed too bright, probably why I got it for free. I did the resistor mod in about 15-20 minutes and I am now the envy of my colleages with the largest screen in our group. I do CAD design and this thing rocks. I will pick up another one if I can find one. Now that I know what to do, I could do it again in 10 minutes. The hardest part is finding the resistor. Here are my comments.
-Unplug and let monitor sit for days! Get an education on high voltage, not hands on experience!
-There are only 4 mechanical supports that hold the cover on. Two screws on the bottom and two clips on the top. With the monitor upright, remove the screws first. Then insert a flat thin tool ( I used an Exacto knife with the blade in backwards...careful!) into the small slots on top and press straight down. My cover literally fell off and the plastic clips were unharmed.
-Place the monitor face down. Remove the screws holding the metal cage that covers just the back of tube. R459 is on the right hand side on the opposite side of the PCB. It is a traditional through hole part; not a surface mount. Note! don't let anything fall down into the monitor; you will have to retrieve it (like I did!). I unsoldered the old resistor and replaced it without removing the board. I did remove the one screw nearby to allow a bit of flexibility but I placed and soldered the new resistor 6.8M, 1/2W on the opposite side of where the old one was; (putting the new one where the old one was would have required removing the entire board assembly). I was able to trim the leads and remove them.
-Now that it is working, I cannot use the left most button on the front panel or the return color feature but if you adjust the brightness and contrast by appearance it looks really great. Not bad for a free monitor....the Black is back!
I did the brightness fix. Because of the fact I didn't have the correct resistor (weekend, stores closed) I used a 7,2megaohm (which is quite close to the required 6,8M-Ohm) from a very old black and white TV-Set (almost 30 years old). Funny to repair an relativ new high-tech computer-screen with old spare parts...
It worked perfect. The monitor looks almost new! :bigggrin:
Thanks to Eric and these guy's who made this thread.
By the way, I found a list from monitor types which maybe suffering from this problem...
I was so psyched to find this forum and so many folks in the same boat as me (too bright, etc.). Firstly, thanks to everyone for the groundwork, sweat and tears you've no doubt suffered. Long story short, I tried everything under the sun for 2+ days and never got past the 'can't connect' and "check bus lines” errors. I installed windas on 3 different computers (an IBM, a Dell & a Compaq), all running XP & all with com1 serial ports that could drive my test external modem successfully.
After reading I knew I'd likely make a mess of the cable so I ordered an ECS cable from http://techref.massmind.org/techref/io/serial/RCL1.htm - "RLC-1 RS232-TTL level converter in a DB9 backshell." It required a few tweaks, but they were clearly documented (get the RLC-2 though - longer cable). I tried tying the extra 2 wires together, and not, and reversing the TX/RX pair and all the tips-n-tricks including superstition and black magic - nothing worked... boo hoo hoo. I tried both the software found on "www.ableserv.com" and some other copies i found around the net that were zipped up ready to go. The software seemed to work OK following the caveats given in this forum.
So, rather than plead for help (though i'd welcome any new wisdom), I'd like to ask a couple questions / a favor.
1) One thing that all 3 machines had that i didn't see covered in the forum is XP-SP2 and SP3. SP3 does not use updated com drivers i noted. Could i have uncovered an oddball compatibilty issue perhaps? I did try to run WINDAS in older OS modes (98 compatibility, etc) troubleshooting.
2) Would someone be willing to sell me their old, working ECS cable, or even a new one they know works. I think perhaps i got a bum cable, but i've probably injured it with the constant reconfigurations i put it through this weekend. I'm willing to make another $20 investment/bet in this otherwise previously wonderful monitor in hopes it can be rescued. If interested in selling your cable, drop me a line miller_davidw@bellsouth.net
Thanks to everyone that worked so hard on this forum.
Dave / ATL
.........
I had 95 for G2, I dropped it to 80 and the display is OK......
Satiropan
Hello, I'd like to add that today I did it again, since I was not satisfied with the 80 value for G2.
I set it first to 70 and the down to 60 and NOW the display is OK!
This time I had not to re-do the geometry setting, just turned the monitor off and then on again, to enable the menu button.
Note that I have Windas installed on a WinME HP Omnibook 900B notebook.
I first modified the .dat file with Notepad, but it was not recognized as proper when I tried to load it back to the monitor (black display).
So I loaded again the saved original version of the .dat file and the monitor started again, then I used Wordpad and the modified .dat file was happily uploaded to the monitor.
This is important, use a text editor which doesn't add any unseen character to the plain ASCII of the .dat file.
Ciao from sunny Italia
Satiropan
ooops, forgot to mention the monitor is a Sony E400P...
and, how to be sure you are going to modify the right number in the wordpad screen, where all the numbers appear one after another, with no reference?
I just noted which where the 2 values before and 2 values after the G2 value in the windas list (I mean, G2 is 110 in the list, I took note also of the values of 108, 109, 111, 112
It came out something like 254 10 80 (the G2 value) 4 211 (these figures are not real, just for example).
so I looked for this numeric sequence in the .dat file opened with wordpad, in order to be sure I was changing the right number (in fact there where 4 occurrences when I did search the 80 number in the file, the right one was the second)
I have changed my FW900 G2 value to 110, which I think its the lowest you can go. my brightness value is around 10 to get a real black color. I was wondering if any of you have done both resistor mod and Windas mod on such monitor? thanks mike
Very interesting. I turned down a used Sun GDM-5410 (21'' G1 chassis) earlier today, the guy even came to deliver it. He wanted $45 for it but I politely refused because the brightness was too bright even with OSD set at 0. And I knew that trinitrons had issues with brightness. The image otherwise was beautiful and straight as all trinitrons are, not even trace lines, so I guess it wasn't that bad of a case anyways.
What I didn't know though is that you could fix that issue. I guess I'll have to call him back, maybe I could lowball him a little because it has been listed for a a while (craigslist). I'll probably be picking it up this time though, lol.
Anyways, I'm looking to get my cable assembled because I definately planning on buying a trinitron based monitor soon, they're just too damn nice. And know that I know I can probably fix their most common issue... Yep.
I found this interesting piece of hardware on ebay.
search "USB to RS232 Module Based TTL PC FTDI FT232BM/BL chip"
Its a usb virtual serial port with direct pin outs for TTL. How neat is that? I'll probably go with a classic cable just to be safe... But this would definately be an interesting mod for more serious users.
A tiny thing like that could easily mod into the case. Then you would just need to hook up your usb cable and fire on WinDAS whenever you felt like making an adjustment. I saw some other guy had cut a big hole to hook it up with, but this seems much nicer it it works.
And whats this about that automatic OSD recalibration in the color menu? I think the guy selling the monitor was trying to access it, but the monitor was only on for 5 minutes so it never warmed (said it was locked until it warmed up).
Comments
Here is a limited INDEX of this whole thread that I made for my own use. I read the 45 pages up to here in one (very long) sitting. Someone crazier than me is welcome to fill out this index more completely. I started out looking only for info on “convergence”. So, many of the most informative & significant posts for some people may not be chronicled in this list. Major topics I did NOT index in detail are:<O:p
---The brightness problem (the original reason for the thread!) and G2 voltage level discussions.<O:p
---The resistor fixes.<O:p
---Specific CRT monitor brands or model numbers.<O:p
---Links to places to BUY a connector cable for using WinDAS. (Though I listed most of the main references to MAKE a cable.)<O:p
<O:p</O:p
[I wish this Index could credit people by name---but alas, to keep it compact, posts are listed as “Page : Number of post”.]<O:p</O:p
<O:p</O:p
1:11 Sony part-numbers to make the connector cable from computer to monitor.<O:p</O:p
1:17 – 19 Warnings about high voltage inside CRT monitors. SEE also 3:57. 9:168. 24:472, 473. <O:p</O:p
3:56 – 58 Ghosting or shadow problem to right (need better video cable).<O:p</O:p
4:80 About “ActiveX Flexgrid” install.<O:p</O:p
5:81 Advice on making the connector cable. Also:<O:p</O:p
--9:169 – 172<O:p</O:p
--11:212 More about the chip & making a cable.<O:p</O:p
--11:215 Floppy drive connector.<O:p</O:p
--16:317 (photos & details). <O:p</O:p
--18:355 Brief “Troubleshooting” summary for WinDAS and converter cable. <O:p</O:p
--20:387 Color circuit board diagram of cable (printed circuit). ALSO 38:758 More circuit stuff.<O:p</O:p
--20:393 - 395 More circuit board pics (using DB9 connector & COM 1) and discussion.<O:p</O:p
--21:405 MAX323 chip (requires no capacitors). <O:p</O:p
--21:414 Connecting cable grounds through a resistor. SEE also 21:420 Shorting pins in the cable. <O:p</O:p
--28:547 – 549 More details of making cable, or fixing cables.<O:p</O:p
--39:762 - 770 More discussion of connector cables. RTS, CTS, TX, RX, Vcc, Ground. <O:p</O:p
--SEE also 43:848<O:p</O:p
--SEE also 43:854<O:p</O:p
--SEE also 43:856 <O:p</O:p
5:86 Removing the plastic case (cover) of a monitor. SEE also 9:161. <O:p</O:p
--SEE also 14:262 More on getting cover off & working on inside. ALSO 24:470, 472. Also 25:481.<O:p</O:p
7:132 Where to find the inner connector on a Dell P1110 monitor.<O:p</O:p
7:138 Warning about using “Image Restoration” on a Sony G500.<O:p</O:p
8:153 Anti- Shadow Mask monitor opinion. <O:p</O:p
8:156 Links to the DOS version (of DAS) and PDF guide to the software & cabling. <O:p</O:p
9:169 – 172 First real introduction of the DAS (Digital Alignment Software) system, and converter cable. <O:p</O:p
9:174 Discussion of “Focus” control (NOT convergence.)<O:p</O:p
10:196 Xweebie offers interface & files. /FONT]Note that this was August 2005.[FONT=MS Mincho<O:p</O:p
11:206 – 207 Screen changing size with brightness. ABL and ACL circuits.<O:p</O:p
11:207 Don’t need a signal generator or two computers to use WinDAS. <O:p</O:p
11:212 Screenshots from WinDAS & some How Tos.<O:p</O:p
11:213 Link to preliminary WinDAS How To.<O:p</O:p
11:215 Experience using WinDAS on Sony E400. Getting files to load into XP properly. Use an ATX floppy drive connector.<O:p</O:p
13:243 How to make sure to NOT lock the OSD in the process of changing settings.<O:p</O:p
14:279 Installing that missing .ocx file.<O:p</O:p
17:329 Modeline settings for DAS alignment WinDAS manual mode.<O:p</O:p
18:348 How to open & edit your WinDAS “DAT” file with old DOS “EDIT” program. <O:p</O:p
--SEE also 21:409, 416. <O:p</O:p
--23:452 – 456 Editing WinDAS data files. (23:458 DON”t use Notepad!)<O:p</O:p
--27:540 More editing.<O:p</O:p
--29:569 Use “Programmer’s Notepad”. Here: http://www.pnotepad.org/download/ <O:p</O:p
18:355 Brief “Troubleshooting” summary for WinDAS and converter cable. <O:p</O:p
21:420 No Dynamic Convergence available in WinDAS in this case. (And 22:421.)<O:p</O:p
22:428 How to go through Dynamic Convergence process. <O:p</O:p
22:427 Sony GDM FW900 allowed Dynamic Convergence when updated WinDAS software.<O:p</O:p
22:439 A high G2 level can cause blooming (not focused).<O:p</O:p
22:429 The link to Dorian’s tips on WinDAS is broken. (It was: (http://people.aapt.net.au/~augen/win...monitor%20fix/)<O:p</O:p
24:471 - 472 Adjusting convergence. Adjusting “focus” on P1110.<O:p</O:p
24:473 Flyback transformer (FBT) description. <O:p</O:p
--ALSO 28:560 Also about focus using pots on P991 (SEE 27:540).<O:p</O:p
24:477 Color “purity” desciption. <O:p</O:p
27:526 In WinDAS, saving DATA in the midst of crashes or errors.<O:p</O:p
28:542 A Sony G-420 improved with “Image Restoration”. It had the brightness problem.<O:p</O:p
28:544 Monitor must be powered on & receiving a video signal to do adjustments.<O:p</O:p
29:569 An experience on WinDAS. ALSO 40:786 Another wrap-up of WinDAS experience.<O:p</O:p
30:584 Update & wrap-up on “How Tos” of WinDAS. <O:p</O:p
--Editing the DAT file. <O:p</O:p
--Dos DAS/ WinDAS Scripting Language<O:p</O:p
--Increasing Contrast<O:p</O:p
--ABL Circuit<O:p</O:p
--Hardware Problems<O:p</O:p
32:629 The whole “color balancing” procedure (this was in conjunction with “Colorvision Spyder 2”). Also:<O:p</O:p
--Test pattern HTML files: http://icrontic.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=21955&d=1165674633<O:p</O:p
--Nokia pattern generator: http://icrontic.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=21956&d=1165674654<O:p</O:p
34:662 XCV, XBV, knobs adjust convergence. What other controls do.<O:p</O:p
38:759 In WinDAS, “Don't touch Setup->config, or anything else under the Setup menu” within one instance.<O:p</O:p
40:786 Communicating with monitor when freshly switched on.<O:p</O:p
43:848 Using a USB connection for the connector cable. <O:p</O:p
--Making ECS Cable.<O:p</O:p
--Installing FTDI's USB serial Com port drivers<O:p</O:p
--Installing WinDAS<O:p</O:p
--Configure WinDas<O:p</O:p
--Prepare PC & monitor for connection<O:p</O:p
--Run WinDAS as Administrator!<O:p</O:p
--Changing the G2 or other values<O:p</O:p
--Links.<O:p</O:p
43:854 Another chip & way to construct/make the connetor cable. (Supposedly easiest.) “No need to translate TTL (monitor) levels to RS232 levels (serial port) in computer built after 1990.”<O:p</O:p
45:898 G2 Grid Voltage Control Circuit. Schematics & explanation of how G2 voltage works.<O:p</O:p
<O:p</O:p
OTHER helpful links from the thread: <O:p</O:p
Location of WinDAS directories: http://www.ablserv.com/files/windas/<O:p</O:p
How To: http://www.geocities.com/gregua/windas/<O:p</O:p
Cheap adaptor cable: http://www.short-media.com/forum/showthread.php?t=19549&page=12 <O:p</O:p
More on “the cable”: http://www.geocities.com/gregua/windas/cable.html <O:p</O:p
NOKIA Test Monitor tools here:http://www.softpedia.com/get/Multimedia/Video/Other-VIDEO-Tools/Nokia-Monitor-Test.shtml<O:p</O:p
“Unfortunately, the convergence of the Red and Blue beams cannot be adjusted individually via Sony WinDAS. The only way that it can be done is by removing the case, and then performing the convergence "rough" adjustments by moving the pole magnets located at the neck of the picture tube. You would need a digital video signal generator for the crosshatch patters, the monitor's service manual and knowledge and/or experience on how to work on the inside of a CRT. Once this is performed, then run WinDAS to complete the dynamic convergence, which is the fine tuning alignment of the R, G, and B beams.
Hope this helps...
Sincerely, LAG, Jr. “
Please guys, I would greatly appreciate if anyone could post some detailed photographs of the P992 Modification before and after with resistor values used.....I'm not game to attempt it without them :sad2:
Hello P991
I finally got the program work. i fixed the bright issue a little but i think my monitor needs a professional calibration or fix. Still look redish
cheers,
henn
Mexico city
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I have the P1110 model and did the resistor fix and it was beautiful for two whole weeks.
The calliope has crashed to the ground.
I went to turn it on and got nothing but pops sputters and death. It seems the Tube is shot.
I've decided a tube replacement is out of the question so I'll join the ranks of the damned and buy an LCD display.
I will miss this gem and do plan to get another for the sake of a project.
Keep up the good work.
The failure was not the fault of the resistor mod but a bum tube.
I'm going with a 22" wide screen Dell so as not to sacrifice any screen space for my game gear.
Using the following equation helped me make this decision;
For 16:9:
w = .872d
h = .490d
where w = width, h = height, d = diagonal
For 16:10
w = .848d
h = .530d
with the 22" 16:10 screen I will get a better match for size when running 4:3 games or vids.
Anyway thanx for all your trouble.
Later
The picture is generally good but I would like to make it as good as is possible.
I have WinDAS installed and working, but I don't want to adjust values I don't really understand.
Are there any dynamic convergence tutorials available anywhere? or even how to set brightness/contrast properly would be a good start.
Cheers.
It was relatively straight forward, WinDAS is quite nice to work with.
Luckily I have my old monitor sitting here still and a dual port video card so was able to use dual view and display fullscreen patterns on the FW9010 and have WinDAS on the other.
I bypassed the INITIAL VALUE and OFFSET ADJUST.
I did not adjust the H/VAMP values either, only the H/VMC values which affected the horizontal and vertical convergence respectively.
The display is still not perfect, the blue gun is slightly off at the extreme left and right edges, it's certainly not bad enough to warrant touching the tube.
If I do ever come across a step by step refurb. guide I may well do the full set up. But currently I am very happy with image.
I have a Dell P1110 with overbright issue and got it fixed thanks to you guys. I have also made a template to make *.dat editing far more simpler and easier.
You need to download WinHex and my template here.
http://www.x-ways.net/winhex/index-m.html
http://rapidshare.com/files/129322032/DELL_P1110_ONLY.tpl.html
A guide on how to use this template is at the link below. Its meant for handphone modding but you will get the idea..
http://forums.se-nse.net/index.php?showtopic=30413
Warning: This template is only created for DELL P1110. Usage on other brand/model will absolutely corrupt your *.dat file!!
A few note
=============
a) Make sure you have a backup copy of your dat file before making any changes.
b) Open your dat file with winhex. Do not click anywhere on the main hex window and load the P1110 template using the above guide.
c) The Title column will give you the same Description and Value as in Windas Viewer eg. G2=150, DRV_MAX=210. Always counter check with Windas Viewer to make sure this template is suitable for your monitor.
d) Do not edit the data without any Description.
e) Most data will have 3 digits but some will have 4 digits. If you want to change a 3 digits to 2 digits you must put a blank space in front of it eg. " 90", " 57" without the quote. "57" wrong, " 57" correct.
f) For 2 digits to 3 digits eg. " 89" will become "120". Make sure you delete the empty space in front the _89 before you key in 120. 2digits to 2digits " 89" to " 55" , not "55".
g) For 4 digits samething as well eg. "1250" will become " 250" (1 space in front) or " 50"(2 space in front)
h) If you notice your setting has 3 digits with space in front " 895", that means it can store up to 4 digits.
i) You have to maintain the same data structure or else the offset will be wrong.
Does anyone have an idea that might help me? It looks like I screwed up.
Thanks for all the information this site has been a godsend.
I have to share with you my good fortune, recently I became the
proud owner of three SGI branded GDM-FW900 series monitors and an SGI
90W11 all free
this cable on ebay after reading this informative thread.
http://cgi.ebay.com/RS232-to-3-3-5v-TTL-Converter-Cable-Max3232-inside_W0QQitemZ150267133705QQihZ005QQcategoryZ4663QQrdZ1QQssPageNameZWD1VQQcmdZViewItem#ebayphotohosting
Does that look like a good cable? I see each path is separated. After reading previous posts it seems I should only be concerned with VCC, RX, TX and Ground. Any thoughts and comments would be appreciated. And again thanks for all the knowledge and information you people have brought.
Regards
ML
my monitor has been great for a while now but over the past ~3 weeks it has degraded a lot.
it began with the focus i believe (convergence maybe?) going out then slowly coming back and instantly going out again until there was a good pop from the back and it would then be perfectly fine for the rest of the time it was on.
then 2 days ago it would not come back at all, staying blurry. turning the monitor off and then each time turning it back on it would start focused then go out but never come back on its own anymore. until eventually on one start it stayed from power on and never went out of focus. yesterday it was fine all night, but..
tonight it has been completely out. i walked in, turned the comp and monitor on, heard the usual monitor power on click and buzz then as i walked out of the room i heard it click again. it had gone off with a 2 flash amber light.
cycled power again and the whole screen was a neon green with a very distinct green spiral scan line going down.
this time it also did the improvement by cycling power until it warmed up.
except the color is off. whites are not white, blues are more of an aqua and i cannot get a true red or purple (the standard deep purple in the windows 20 square appearance choices). it is a constant washed out look.
brightness in the 20-25 range seems best and contrast quite high to make it look remotely decent.
so now to the point.. hoping my description is good enough..
is this something unfixable or something that can be tweaked on?
it would seem to me to be either a color dying (not sure how that is specifically controlled) or a power supply / solder joint going out.
sorry for such a long first post just trolling for help
im scared what will happen tomorrow when i turn it on. it never gets worse until it sits. it really seems i could never turn it off and it wouldn't change.
S.Winston has notified me that a kit costing $6.99 + $3.00 S/H contains everything needed. The wires that connect the 'reset' and 'on LED' of an old PC fit both the header pins on both the monitor and this kit nicely.
It can be found by searching for 'RS232 to TTL 5V converter board KIT' on ebay. Or you can check out the kit being sold here:http://www.nkcelectronics.com/rs232-to-ttl-5v-converter.html
This is substantially cheaper with almost negligible increase in difficulty.
http://www.frontx.com/pro/c213.html
I am planning on getting four of these and adding them to the kit above. any advice on whether this makes sense would be great. thanks
I have now bought a decent soldering iron and practised with some surface mount components but I cant find most of the ones you mentioned apart form the last (which is en route from Digi-Key). Any suggestions as to a source?
I understand the software and components required (just!) but am a bit concerned because I plan to use it as a display for my laptop, my laptop having no Serial Link. So can I calibrate the monitor on a friends machine and then use it with my laptop? Or does it have be connected permanently via Serial for the software to work?
Thanks for any help, and will begin re-reading this thread now seeing what I missed! Cheers!
Dove
just do the setting and it will stay in the monitor EPROM, won't be deleted by turning it off
-Unplug and let monitor sit for days! Get an education on high voltage, not hands on experience!
-There are only 4 mechanical supports that hold the cover on. Two screws on the bottom and two clips on the top. With the monitor upright, remove the screws first. Then insert a flat thin tool ( I used an Exacto knife with the blade in backwards...careful!) into the small slots on top and press straight down. My cover literally fell off and the plastic clips were unharmed.
-Place the monitor face down. Remove the screws holding the metal cage that covers just the back of tube. R459 is on the right hand side on the opposite side of the PCB. It is a traditional through hole part; not a surface mount. Note! don't let anything fall down into the monitor; you will have to retrieve it (like I did!). I unsoldered the old resistor and replaced it without removing the board. I did remove the one screw nearby to allow a bit of flexibility but I placed and soldered the new resistor 6.8M, 1/2W on the opposite side of where the old one was; (putting the new one where the old one was would have required removing the entire board assembly). I was able to trim the leads and remove them.
-Now that it is working, I cannot use the left most button on the front panel or the return color feature but if you adjust the brightness and contrast by appearance it looks really great. Not bad for a free monitor....the Black is back!
Good luck!
I have a Compaq P1100 (fabricated November 1999) which was to bright. According to the website
http://eric.hutzelman.com/articles/1-Sony-CRT-Brightness-Fix
I did the brightness fix. Because of the fact I didn't have the correct resistor (weekend, stores closed) I used a 7,2megaohm (which is quite close to the required 6,8M-Ohm) from a very old black and white TV-Set (almost 30 years old). Funny to repair an relativ new high-tech computer-screen with old spare parts...
It worked perfect. The monitor looks almost new! :bigggrin:
Thanks to Eric and these guy's who made this thread.
By the way, I found a list from monitor types which maybe suffering from this problem...
Greetings from Austria
Jürgen
Compaq:
P700
P1100
CompaqP110
Dell:
D1626HT
P780
P991
P992
P1100
P1110
P1130
HP:
A4576
D2846
GDM-FW9012
IBM:
P260
6550-33N
6551-
6552-23N
6552-23S
6552-63N
6552-63S
6556-
6557-03
6557-43
6558-
6639-
6651-
6652-
SGI:
GDM-FW9011
GDM-5411
GDM-5011
GDM-5021
GDM-4011
Sony:
CPD-21G
CPD-E230
CPD-E400
CPD-E540
CPD-G200
CPD-G220
CPD-G400
CPD-G410
CPD-G420
CPD-G500
CPD-G520
GDM-F420
GDM-F500
GDM-F520
GDM-FW900
GDM-FW9011
GDM-21PS
Sun:
CPD-4410
GDM-20E20
GDM-5010
GDM-5410
GDM-5510
GDM-FW9010
After reading I knew I'd likely make a mess of the cable so I ordered an ECS cable from http://techref.massmind.org/techref/io/serial/RCL1.htm - "RLC-1 RS232-TTL level converter in a DB9 backshell." It required a few tweaks, but they were clearly documented (get the RLC-2 though - longer cable). I tried tying the extra 2 wires together, and not, and reversing the TX/RX pair and all the tips-n-tricks including superstition and black magic - nothing worked... boo hoo hoo. I tried both the software found on "www.ableserv.com" and some other copies i found around the net that were zipped up ready to go. The software seemed to work OK following the caveats given in this forum.
So, rather than plead for help (though i'd welcome any new wisdom), I'd like to ask a couple questions / a favor.
1) One thing that all 3 machines had that i didn't see covered in the forum is XP-SP2 and SP3. SP3 does not use updated com drivers i noted. Could i have uncovered an oddball compatibilty issue perhaps? I did try to run WINDAS in older OS modes (98 compatibility, etc) troubleshooting.
2) Would someone be willing to sell me their old, working ECS cable, or even a new one they know works. I think perhaps i got a bum cable, but i've probably injured it with the constant reconfigurations i put it through this weekend. I'm willing to make another $20 investment/bet in this otherwise previously wonderful monitor in hopes it can be rescued. If interested in selling your cable, drop me a line miller_davidw@bellsouth.net
Thanks to everyone that worked so hard on this forum.
Dave / ATL
Hello, I'd like to add that today I did it again, since I was not satisfied with the 80 value for G2.
I set it first to 70 and the down to 60 and NOW the display is OK!
This time I had not to re-do the geometry setting, just turned the monitor off and then on again, to enable the menu button.
Note that I have Windas installed on a WinME HP Omnibook 900B notebook.
I first modified the .dat file with Notepad, but it was not recognized as proper when I tried to load it back to the monitor (black display).
So I loaded again the saved original version of the .dat file and the monitor started again, then I used Wordpad and the modified .dat file was happily uploaded to the monitor.
This is important, use a text editor which doesn't add any unseen character to the plain ASCII of the .dat file.
Ciao from sunny Italia
Satiropan
and, how to be sure you are going to modify the right number in the wordpad screen, where all the numbers appear one after another, with no reference?
I just noted which where the 2 values before and 2 values after the G2 value in the windas list (I mean, G2 is 110 in the list, I took note also of the values of 108, 109, 111, 112
It came out something like 254 10 80 (the G2 value) 4 211 (these figures are not real, just for example).
so I looked for this numeric sequence in the .dat file opened with wordpad, in order to be sure I was changing the right number (in fact there where 4 occurrences when I did search the 80 number in the file, the right one was the second)
I stuffed my .dat file for a Sony CDP-400. Can someome PM me with a copy of theirs.
Cheers, Mike.
What I didn't know though is that you could fix that issue. I guess I'll have to call him back, maybe I could lowball him a little because it has been listed for a a while (craigslist). I'll probably be picking it up this time though, lol.
Anyways, I'm looking to get my cable assembled because I definately planning on buying a trinitron based monitor soon, they're just too damn nice. And know that I know I can probably fix their most common issue... Yep.
I found this interesting piece of hardware on ebay.
search "USB to RS232 Module Based TTL PC FTDI FT232BM/BL chip"
Its a usb virtual serial port with direct pin outs for TTL. How neat is that? I'll probably go with a classic cable just to be safe... But this would definately be an interesting mod for more serious users.
A tiny thing like that could easily mod into the case. Then you would just need to hook up your usb cable and fire on WinDAS whenever you felt like making an adjustment. I saw some other guy had cut a big hole to hook it up with, but this seems much nicer it it works.
And whats this about that automatic OSD recalibration in the color menu? I think the guy selling the monitor was trying to access it, but the monitor was only on for 5 minutes so it never warmed (said it was locked until it warmed up).
edit: yikes, had to fix that horrible formatting