I received the Service Manual for the Sony G500 and unfortunately the only "service mode" is using the DAS software mentioned before with a special cable to connect to the monitor.
So it looks like I need to do the resistor fix. I will note to see if my brightness works correct before and after I do the fix, as per the previous post.
The manual cost me $20 and is a 5 meg pdf file.
If anyone wants a copy, send me an email with an offer to help cover a share of the initial cost.
I recently repaired my year 2000 Sony G500 by adding a 10MOhm resistor, and it worked great. The picture looks great, but I have the same situation where the brightness controls are funky, same as darkscion0's scenario.
If I leave it at around 50 brightness, it looks great, but I'd really like to know if there is a way to get the brightness control working like it used to.
At a desktop resolution, (1600x1200) my brightness control now actually seems to alter the color temperature: down is redder (lower temp) and up is bluer (higher temp). 50 is where I keep it set. Contrast works as expected. At gaming resolutions (800x600, 1024x768) the brightness control seems to work correctly and a lower brightness (20-35 or thereabouts) is required to create an adequate black level. Bizzare I know, but strange things are to be expected when modifying complicated control circuitry.
One solution to the brightness control problem might entail soldering a potentiometer (variable resistor) in place of the R459 resistor that we replaced. Brightness could then be adjusted using the potentiometer knob on the rear of the monitor. However, I suspect that without a major circuit redesign or access to the Sony interface software the on-screen brightness control will be unrepairable. Because of the added resistor, it is operating completely out of the range it was designed for and unpredictable behavior is to be expected. If you really need a working brightness control, buying a new monitor may be the best alternative.
All that said, I'm still VERY happy I modded my monitor. It calibrates quite well using a brightness setting of 50.
I also have a C500 with similar wasted out screen problems. My monitor tends to lean on the green side, the screen is covers with a fine green tint, I can almost eliminate this by playing with the GBia and all but then the screen is to wasted out, so I decided to try the resistor fix.
I have a question about the "image restoration" in easy or sRGB mode. When
I select either of these the screen cycles thru bunch of colors mostly shades of white and the then the screen goes black and the light flashes. I then have to power cycle it, even after waiting 15 minutes. Is this normal?
I have some resistors on order so wil try the fix when I get them but wanted to see if my monitor is to far gone to expect any good results.
I have a question about the "image restoration" in easy or sRGB mode. When
I select either of these the screen cycles thru bunch of colors mostly shades of white and the then the screen goes black and the light flashes. I then have to power cycle it, even after waiting 15 minutes. Is this normal?
No. On my monitor, image restoration takes about 30 seconds, and then returns to the VGA picture. Sounds like yours has even more problems! Sorry...
SUCCESS! As a gamer, I can't say how happy I am to have the normal brightness restored to this Sony CDP-G500. As I mentioned before when I was given this monitor I was immediately disappointed in the lack of vibrant color I was accustomed to with my old 19 inch Sony 420GS. I was torn between a larger screen and good color.
Now I have both. The colors are fantastic again.
I used a 6.8M Ohm - 1/2 watt resistor. I could not get to the old resistor to clip it free so I had to heat up the solder points while I slipped a small flat screw driver tip between the old resistor and the circuit board and pried the old resistor completely off. Then I soldiered the new one on. I also took a sharp knife and scraped the green circuit board between the adjacent contacts for R457 and R459 (see screenshot) to make sure I had not created a connection between the two during my work on R459. (note the screen shot is from the web page that shows you how to do this: http://www.hutzelman.com/home/hardware/mods/monitor/ )
This was not difficult ... I am not a big electronics guy ... don't be intimidated by soldiering or taking off the back of the Monitor. You can find parts and equipment at a local electronics store or check my earlier post for links.
I did not lose any brightness control functionality ... still goes from 0 to 100. My current setting is about 57. I used to have it set at 0 and that was too bright. I did not do any resets after the fix ... just turned up the brightness.
For those who lost some brightness control, is there a chance that when you soldiered R459 you accidentally made a connection between R459 and R457? Or perhaps the lower Ohm rating (lower than 6.8M) had something to do with it.
Thanks to all who contributed to this topic.
R.
PS. I have a Sony G400 ( CDP-G400 ) with the same brightness problem at work ... tempted to try fixing it over the week end or at least open it up and see if the inards are the same .
I have the same problem here too! I got this from a mate who brought it second hand but when he got it home it was way too bright .. Anyways he soldered that resistor on but no gets just a black screen..anyone got any ideas?
Also is there meant to be anything soldered from GND to G2?
Hi Guys. I too have the same problem where my G500 is too bright. But i have a second problem where the green cast is way too high as well. I actually have to have my Green set to 0 to get rid of it, but it still seems to be there. I don't remember it being there when i first bought it.
My Image Restoration isn't working either. I have the same problem as you john chiodo. Monitor turns off and i actually have to unplug it to get it to turn on as the light just keeps blinking orange.
Will the resistor fix the green cast problem or is this another issue with this monitor that requires another fix?
I'm really upset about all this since the monitor is actually unreal and physically looks great too, unlike the G520 which to me is cheap looking. Upgrading to an LCD is also not an option atm as picture quality too me is a number one priority and they have yet to catch up to CRT.
Bottom line is i'd really like to get this monitor working the way it's supposed to
Regarding the Green Hue ... I have seen that on a Trinitron flat screen G400 at work. Have not tried the resistor fix on it. Am also curious if it will help. As no one is using the monitor now I might give it a try but I don't know if it will be anytime soon as I busy at work.
Regarding the black screen mentioned ... no one has mentioned that before on this thread ... all have had success ... did you use the correct Mohm and not a simple ohm resistor?
cheers
RS
ps: after a week I played again with my friend in a coop game and now my G500 looks better than my old 19 inch 420GS ... still very pleased.
Thanx a bunch for the info, it looks perfect now.
It was the 6.8M ohm resitor that worked.
I have 3 more to fix!!!
Anyone can email me at doug@NOSPAMprimeshaw.com (remove the NOSPAM)
i'd like to remove the monitor case,after remove the only two screws of the monitor,i still can't remove the case .sb said there are two plastic tabs,but i can't fint it
i'd like to remove the monitor case,after remove the only two screws of the monitor,i still can't remove the case .sb said there are two plastic tabs,but i can't fint it
Dont do what I did, "force it off"!
There are two tabs located about 3" in from each side on the top.
you need to force the plastic cabinet down about a 1/8" of an inch to unsecure this. BAD design by the way!
Let me measure the exaxt place for you...
Place a rigid slim object like butter knife 3-1/8" from the edge.
Wedge it in with the separation.
Push down about 1/8" like I said, per side and it should come off cleanly.
What are you doing inside anyways???
Hi Guys. I too have the same problem where my G500 is too bright. But i have a second problem where the green cast is way too high as well. I actually have to have my Green set to 0 to get rid of it, but it still seems to be there. I don't remember it being there when i first bought it.
My Image Restoration isn't working either. I have the same problem as you john chiodo. Monitor turns off and i actually have to unplug it to get it to turn on as the light just keeps blinking orange.
Will the resistor fix the green cast problem or is this another issue with this monitor that requires another fix?
I'm really upset about all this since the monitor is actually unreal and physically looks great too, unlike the G520 which to me is cheap looking. Upgrading to an LCD is also not an option atm as picture quality too me is a number one priority and they have yet to catch up to CRT.
Bottom line is i'd really like to get this monitor working the way it's supposed to
Here's what I've done to get an almost perfect picture out of a P1110 that started out too bright and with a weird tint, without having to do any surgery on the monitor:
- Set Brightness to 0
- Set Contrast to 75
- Open the configuration menu, go to Color, then select Expert.
- From Expert, down-arrow once to get to Color Temperature selection. (I've found my best results at the highest setting (9500 degrees I believe, but the next step changes the display from 9500 to a 3 with three dots next to it instead, so I don't remember what it originally said.)
- After selecting color temperature, down-arrow again to G BIAS.
- Set G BIAS to 0
Exit out, that's the best I've done without ripping the monitor open.
Hi Guys!
This thread is really something..
I've noticed that there are probably other quality 21" monitors based on this sony trinitron chasis - so for instance this sexy IBM P260 suffers exactly the same problem.. I've google it and it turns out that someone successfully applied this resistor hack as well but I'd like to hear some more stories on this particular IBM - anybody?
Thanks I bought an IBM P260 21" monitor. It is STILL advertised as UNUSED. It is STILL listed as made in April 2001. Mine was made in November 2000 and is WELL USED. The brightness was beyond the range of the external controls, I had to solder in a resistor inside thanks to info I got from the internet.
It has been one month since I changed the resistor to a 6.8 Mohm. Monitor is still working fine ... brightness is set at 56 where I used to run it at 0.
See my earlier posts for details. Finished Half-Life2 in beautiful color ...
Hi there, I have no fix for you but at my work we have 320 dell 21 inch or 20 inch flat screens and every monitors brightness and color are different. Some have a faded look others have rich dark look. I have messed with about 20 or so of them trying see if I could tweek them to be the same and it is a no go. They came with a 3 year warrenty. I would try seeing if you can send it back in and get a replacement. You might get lucky and get one that hits 6500k perfectly. RIght now I'm stuck on an overbright faded one. I'll probably be trading it out with a coworkers when they are not looking lmao or ask for a swap.
LOL I had a 20 inch dell FP at work that did that and I switched it out at night with another employee, but he busted me out to the boss man..... it was funny
I would call dell, they should have no problem replacing it....
If not, most video drivers have display gama/color tweaking options that might get you by.
Only $1 per resistor, and USPS shipping for $3.90. They don't guarantee to have them all in stock, but the price can't be beat... and the 500V, 2W ratings beat the other resistors which I see in this thread.
Sizes shown for the 'replacement approach' include 4.7M, 5.1, 5.6, 6.2, and 6.8M.
I just put in an order for the 'put another in parallel on the top side' approach. Sizes shown include 10M (for a net resistance 5.0M), 11M, 12M (net 5.45), 13M, 14M, 15M (net 6.0M), 16M (net 6.154M), 18M (net 6.42M), (net 6.67M), and 22M (net 6.875, might not be enough change for most of us).
My monitor is quite washed out, so I'm going with the 16M resistor (for a net resistance of slightly less than 6.2). I'll let you all know if/when it shows up, or if I have to switch to a different (in-stock) size.
Hi, I tried the fix today, but it made the monitor way too dark, but more interestingly, it now has a lot of shadowing happening (especially noticable on text). Could this just be because the resistance I used was too low (5.6)? I am going to try 6.8 tomorrow, is the best way to just re-heat the solders, take off the existing resitor, then put the new one on?
Here are some pics of my work, if anyone can see any obvious erros, please let me know (the existing resistor underneath cut eithout any problems).
Here I'm having a Dell P1110 at the other end of brightness range! A friend of mine bought this used early 2003, used for a couple of months, and took out of service because it became extremely dark. With default settings can't see anything unless the room is very dark. I had gotten it barely usable by setting Brightness=100, Contrast =100, and R/G/B Bias & Gain to 100 in Color: Expert.
The notorious "R459" is in place, and looks OK. My little DVM only measures upto 2MOhm, and R459 is beyond range. FBT focus controls work. Doesn't look like anyone worked on it before. OSD "Information" gives
SER NO: 9171R1330LZY
MANUFACTURED: 2001-09
VER: 1.320 / CS: CC2F
whereas back of the cover says Ser No: 2362154 and Mfd: March, 2001. Is this contradiction normal for Dell P1110's made by Sony?
The only trick I've not been able to do yet is the "Color Return". The one time I did it, screen went blank, as to be expected, but I panicked and turned it off. I turned it back on right away, but it seemed to require a fresh chance to warm-up.
After I figured out my way through the front panel, I found the following Docs on Dell P1110 which may be of use to others as well:
I'll let you know if the "Color Return" helped. Does this monitor seem to be having a hardware problem outside "R459"? Thanks in advance for any responses.
zztopless: Try a higher resistor of a higher resistance, and don't forget to use color return after you make any changes ("Yes" to both of your questions).
vjsm: Also try increasing the resistance of the resistor.
vjsm: Also try increasing the resistance of the resistor.
Thanks to The Sm "J". I 'll put another resistor in series with original 10M, and let you know.
In the meantime, "Color Return" worked bothways! The first time I did it, the colors were nice, sufficiently bright, but, the brightness control was messed-up in exactly the same way "darkscion0" described in post #53. Brightness starts to decrease after 30% ! I notice that sRGB Brightness=29 and Contrast=89, both before and after "Color Return"s.
The worst part is, in trying to fix brightness scale, I did Color Return again (several times), and now the colors are messed-up too; not enough Red. If I match colors using Bias/Gain, then not bright enough. I should have Locked the controls after first Color Return :o .
Here's another(perhaps unrelated) observation (both before-and-after):
With no video, press "Menu" button for 3 sec. Screen becomes uniform slightly green-tinted dark grey, and front panel LED flashes alternate Green and Orange. Does this indicate some error condition?
Also while the Dell manual says "The picture disappears while the color is being restored (about 2 seconds)", this one takes almost 30 seconds to do Color Return.
I'd try increasing R459 next; curious just what would happen if I tried it with open R459 ?
Also i might have just found a clue as to the root cause of the problem, I found this on Geek.comIt seems the P1110 uses an obsolete driver chip for brightness control. :
I quote :
"
ohh.. and for those shopping in the 21" range, I determined that the GDM-5410 is much better than the DELL P1110 because the dell uses some obsolete driver chip for the brightness control. you'll know its dead when you turn the brightness all the way down and your blacks still look gray. if you do get a P1110 better look long and hard for that chip cause your gonna need it! the Sun monitor may use the same chip but I haven't seen as many dead ones as dell. - by k2h"
This is a known problem with the Dell P1110, and there is a hardware
fix to resolve it. Get someone else to do this if you are not
comfortable/safe working inside a monitor. Get the download from the
Sony section at this site... http://www.geocities.com/monitorss/schematics.html
Comments
So it looks like I need to do the resistor fix. I will note to see if my brightness works correct before and after I do the fix, as per the previous post.
The manual cost me $20 and is a 5 meg pdf file.
If anyone wants a copy, send me an email with an offer to help cover a share of the initial cost.
thanks
rws70
At a desktop resolution, (1600x1200) my brightness control now actually seems to alter the color temperature: down is redder (lower temp) and up is bluer (higher temp). 50 is where I keep it set. Contrast works as expected. At gaming resolutions (800x600, 1024x768) the brightness control seems to work correctly and a lower brightness (20-35 or thereabouts) is required to create an adequate black level. Bizzare I know, but strange things are to be expected when modifying complicated control circuitry.
One solution to the brightness control problem might entail soldering a potentiometer (variable resistor) in place of the R459 resistor that we replaced. Brightness could then be adjusted using the potentiometer knob on the rear of the monitor. However, I suspect that without a major circuit redesign or access to the Sony interface software the on-screen brightness control will be unrepairable. Because of the added resistor, it is operating completely out of the range it was designed for and unpredictable behavior is to be expected. If you really need a working brightness control, buying a new monitor may be the best alternative.
All that said, I'm still VERY happy I modded my monitor. It calibrates quite well using a brightness setting of 50.
I also have a C500 with similar wasted out screen problems. My monitor tends to lean on the green side, the screen is covers with a fine green tint, I can almost eliminate this by playing with the GBia and all but then the screen is to wasted out, so I decided to try the resistor fix.
I have a question about the "image restoration" in easy or sRGB mode. When
I select either of these the screen cycles thru bunch of colors mostly shades of white and the then the screen goes black and the light flashes. I then have to power cycle it, even after waiting 15 minutes. Is this normal?
I have some resistors on order so wil try the fix when I get them but wanted to see if my monitor is to far gone to expect any good results.
Here is the page for the resistors:
http://www.oselectronics.com/ose_p70.htm#1/2W%20Carbon%20Film
... you need to scroll down to the 1.1M OHMS TO 20M OHMS section as
per Hutzelman's instructions on this web page:
http://www.hutzelman.com/home/hardware/mods/monitor/
Here is the page for a soldering iron and solder:
http://www.oselectronics.com/ose_p61.htm
Minimum order is $10.
No. On my monitor, image restoration takes about 30 seconds, and then returns to the VGA picture. Sounds like yours has even more problems! Sorry...
get them in a few days.
I will post my results....
Now I have both. The colors are fantastic again.
I used a 6.8M Ohm - 1/2 watt resistor. I could not get to the old resistor to clip it free so I had to heat up the solder points while I slipped a small flat screw driver tip between the old resistor and the circuit board and pried the old resistor completely off. Then I soldiered the new one on. I also took a sharp knife and scraped the green circuit board between the adjacent contacts for R457 and R459 (see screenshot) to make sure I had not created a connection between the two during my work on R459. (note the screen shot is from the web page that shows you how to do this:
http://www.hutzelman.com/home/hardware/mods/monitor/ )
This was not difficult ... I am not a big electronics guy ... don't be intimidated by soldiering or taking off the back of the Monitor. You can find parts and equipment at a local electronics store or check my earlier post for links.
I did not lose any brightness control functionality ... still goes from 0 to 100. My current setting is about 57. I used to have it set at 0 and that was too bright. I did not do any resets after the fix ... just turned up the brightness.
For those who lost some brightness control, is there a chance that when you soldiered R459 you accidentally made a connection between R459 and R457? Or perhaps the lower Ohm rating (lower than 6.8M) had something to do with it.
Thanks to all who contributed to this topic.
R.
PS. I have a Sony G400 ( CDP-G400 ) with the same brightness problem at work ... tempted to try fixing it over the week end or at least open it up and see if the inards are the same .
Also is there meant to be anything soldered from GND to G2?
Thanks,
Mike
badfan@orcon.net.nz
My Image Restoration isn't working either. I have the same problem as you john chiodo. Monitor turns off and i actually have to unplug it to get it to turn on as the light just keeps blinking orange.
Will the resistor fix the green cast problem or is this another issue with this monitor that requires another fix?
I'm really upset about all this since the monitor is actually unreal and physically looks great too, unlike the G520 which to me is cheap looking. Upgrading to an LCD is also not an option atm as picture quality too me is a number one priority and they have yet to catch up to CRT.
Bottom line is i'd really like to get this monitor working the way it's supposed to
Regarding the black screen mentioned ... no one has mentioned that before on this thread ... all have had success ... did you use the correct Mohm and not a simple ohm resistor?
cheers
RS
ps: after a week I played again with my friend in a coop game and now my G500 looks better than my old 19 inch 420GS ... still very pleased.
It was the 6.8M ohm resitor that worked.
I have 3 more to fix!!!
Anyone can email me at doug@NOSPAMprimeshaw.com (remove the NOSPAM)
for information.
Email edited by Spinner
THX!
...and you admit that???
j/k I do too!
please be more specific, re: plastic tabs.
Dont do what I did, "force it off"!
There are two tabs located about 3" in from each side on the top.
you need to force the plastic cabinet down about a 1/8" of an inch to unsecure this. BAD design by the way!
Let me measure the exaxt place for you...
Place a rigid slim object like butter knife 3-1/8" from the edge.
Wedge it in with the separation.
Push down about 1/8" like I said, per side and it should come off cleanly.
What are you doing inside anyways???
- Set Brightness to 0
- Set Contrast to 75
- Open the configuration menu, go to Color, then select Expert.
- From Expert, down-arrow once to get to Color Temperature selection. (I've found my best results at the highest setting (9500 degrees I believe, but the next step changes the display from 9500 to a 3 with three dots next to it instead, so I don't remember what it originally said.)
- After selecting color temperature, down-arrow again to G BIAS.
- Set G BIAS to 0
Exit out, that's the best I've done without ripping the monitor open.
Watch out now I work for OGB you're covarage might change all of a sudden :P
Thanks to Blanco we had a few extra day off's durring the hollidays
This thread is really something..
I've noticed that there are probably other quality 21" monitors based on this sony trinitron chasis - so for instance this sexy IBM P260 suffers exactly the same problem.. I've google it and it turns out that someone successfully applied this resistor hack as well but I'd like to hear some more stories on this particular IBM - anybody?
Thanks
I bought an IBM P260 21" monitor. It is STILL advertised as UNUSED. It is STILL listed as made in April 2001. Mine was made in November 2000 and is WELL USED. The brightness was beyond the range of the external controls, I had to solder in a resistor inside thanks to info I got from the internet.
See my earlier posts for details. Finished Half-Life2 in beautiful color ...
RS
LOL I had a 20 inch dell FP at work that did that and I switched it out at night with another employee, but he busted me out to the boss man..... it was funny
I would call dell, they should have no problem replacing it....
If not, most video drivers have display gama/color tweaking options that might get you by.
http://www.action-electronics.com/resist2w.htm
Only $1 per resistor, and USPS shipping for $3.90. They don't guarantee to have them all in stock, but the price can't be beat... and the 500V, 2W ratings beat the other resistors which I see in this thread.
Sizes shown for the 'replacement approach' include 4.7M, 5.1, 5.6, 6.2, and 6.8M.
I just put in an order for the 'put another in parallel on the top side' approach. Sizes shown include 10M (for a net resistance 5.0M), 11M, 12M (net 5.45), 13M, 14M, 15M (net 6.0M), 16M (net 6.154M), 18M (net 6.42M), (net 6.67M), and 22M (net 6.875, might not be enough change for most of us).
My monitor is quite washed out, so I'm going with the 16M resistor (for a net resistance of slightly less than 6.2). I'll let you all know if/when it shows up, or if I have to switch to a different (in-stock) size.
Sincerely, Rick
Here are some pics of my work, if anyone can see any obvious erros, please let me know (the existing resistor underneath cut eithout any problems).
http://www.complete-marketing.net/board1.jpg
http://www.complete-marketing.net/board2.jpg
Here I'm having a Dell P1110 at the other end of brightness range! A friend of mine bought this used early 2003, used for a couple of months, and took out of service because it became extremely dark. With default settings can't see anything unless the room is very dark. I had gotten it barely usable by setting Brightness=100, Contrast =100, and R/G/B Bias & Gain to 100 in Color: Expert.
The notorious "R459" is in place, and looks OK. My little DVM only measures upto 2MOhm, and R459 is beyond range. FBT focus controls work. Doesn't look like anyone worked on it before. OSD "Information" gives
SER NO: 9171R1330LZY
MANUFACTURED: 2001-09
VER: 1.320 / CS: CC2F
whereas back of the cover says Ser No: 2362154 and Mfd: March, 2001. Is this contradiction normal for Dell P1110's made by Sony?
The only trick I've not been able to do yet is the "Color Return". The one time I did it, screen went blank, as to be expected, but I panicked and turned it off. I turned it back on right away, but it seemed to require a fresh chance to warm-up.
After I figured out my way through the front panel, I found the following Docs on Dell P1110 which may be of use to others as well:
Front Panel/Menus: http://support.dell.com/support/edocs/monitors/p1110/En/controls.htm
Troubleshooting : http://support.ap.dell.com/docs/monitors/p1110/En/trouble.htm
P1110 Guide Index: http://support.dell.com/support/edocs/monitors/p1110/En/index.htm
I'll let you know if the "Color Return" helped. Does this monitor seem to be having a hardware problem outside "R459"?
vjsm: Also try increasing the resistance of the resistor.
Thanks to The Sm "J". I 'll put another resistor in series with original 10M, and let you know.
In the meantime, "Color Return" worked bothways! The first time I did it, the colors were nice, sufficiently bright, but, the brightness control was messed-up in exactly the same way "darkscion0" described in post #53. Brightness starts to decrease after 30% ! I notice that sRGB Brightness=29 and Contrast=89, both before and after "Color Return"s.
The worst part is, in trying to fix brightness scale, I did Color Return again (several times), and now the colors are messed-up too; not enough Red. If I match colors using Bias/Gain, then not bright enough. I should have Locked the controls after first Color Return :o .
Here's another(perhaps unrelated) observation (both before-and-after):
With no video, press "Menu" button for 3 sec. Screen becomes uniform slightly green-tinted dark grey, and front panel LED flashes alternate Green and Orange. Does this indicate some error condition?
Also while the Dell manual says "The picture disappears while the color is being restored (about 2 seconds)", this one takes almost 30 seconds to do Color Return.
I'd try increasing R459 next; curious just what would happen if I tried it with open R459
I quote :
"
ohh.. and for those shopping in the 21" range, I determined that the GDM-5410 is much better than the DELL P1110 because the dell uses some obsolete driver chip for the brightness control. you'll know its dead when you turn the brightness all the way down and your blacks still look gray. if you do get a P1110 better look long and hard for that chip cause your gonna need it! the Sun monitor may use the same chip but I haven't seen as many dead ones as dell. - by k2h"
This is a known problem with the Dell P1110, and there is a hardware
fix to resolve it. Get someone else to do this if you are not
comfortable/safe working inside a monitor. Get the download from the
Sony section at this site...
http://www.geocities.com/monitorss/schematics.html