"
ohh.. and for those shopping in the 21" range, I determined that the GDM-5410 is much better than the DELL P1110 because the dell uses some obsolete driver chip for the brightness control. you'll know its dead when you turn the brightness all the way down and your blacks still look gray. if you do get a P1110 better look long and hard for that chip cause your gonna need it! the Sun monitor may use the same chip but I haven't seen as many dead ones as dell. - by k2h"[/QUOTE]
The problem has nothing to do with a "driver chip", but a resistor drifting out of spec. The "right way" to fix the problem is to connect the small port on the back of the monitor to the PC's serial port and adjust it from there. Problem is only Sony repair shops have such a cable.
EDIT: I should also add that these Dell branded monitors aren't the only ones with the problem. The Compaq P1100 has the same issue, as does the Sony monitor all of these are based off of (can't think of it's model # at the moment).
The software was obtained with the help of a previous poster (deesto). The software needs a bit of reverse-engineering if you know what I mean, to get past the security key. If you use the software, be sure to install the ActiveX Flexgrid control and register it, or the mdl files will be inaccessable. The resistor in my monitor is 2.2M just as it should be. The feedback/reference resistors all check to be the proper values also. Rather than change this resistor as has been suggested, I can connect a resistor of 1.5M from the CRT G2 point to ground and the voltage lowers to an acceptable range and monitor looks great (except for the bit of covergence at the sides). At this point it is still a mystery as to why all of these monitors seem to have the same failure, but eeproms are not the most reliable components. They have been known as a high failure rate part. Many RCA televisions using adjustment data in eeproms have had a very high failure rate (if you had a newer "dead" RCA television chances were that the eeprom was bad). When (if) I get this working, it will be interesting to find if the eeprom has actually failed or the data has changed.
Yes I did. I can adjust all parameters available under digital control. I can adjust G2 voltage via setting the proper value to the PWM. Feel free to contact me for more information.
Yes I did. I can adjust all parameters available under digital control. I can adjust G2 voltage via setting the proper value to the PWM. Feel free to contact me for more information.
If you could hook me up with the schematics of the cable and the software that'd be SWEET! Please email me the stuff to thesmj*AT*gmail*DOT*com.
So nobody actually knows if the entire range manufactured from 1999 to 2002? have this problem, Im going to buy a post 2000 model but not if its gonna have this fault.
So nobody actually knows if the entire range manufactured from 1999 to 2002? have this problem, Im going to buy a post 2000 model but not if its gonna have this fault.
So nobody actually knows if the entire range manufactured from 1999 to 2002? have this problem, Im going to buy a post 2000 model but not if its gonna have this fault.
My Dell P1110 has EPROM date 9-2001, and it has the opposite problem (too dark)! Apparently I'm the only poster in this thread who is in this category. May be Sony over-corrected the pre-2000 defect ?!
Please read posts # 116 & 118 for my situation. I'm still waiting to try the "R459 fix" - in my case by adding more resistance. Will let you guys know.
"Radio", if I see a well-used 3-year old unit that still works well, then I'd buy it. The defect probably should have manifested by now.
My Dell P1110 has EPROM date 9-2001, and it has the opposite problem (too dark)! Apparently I'm the only poster in this thread who is in this category.
If your screen is too dark, then maybe your G2 is too low. Do you have a way to measure it (100-600v)? Be aware input impedence of meter would affect the reading. How about your filament voltage? If trying the resistor fix, the resistor would be in parallel.
+R (series) = lower G2 / -R (parallel) = higher G2.
Your post 118 states that you now have brightness returned? In any case, it's best to know what V G2 is, so you know if you are dealing with that problem or something else.
For others, when G2 is much too high, scanlines may be visible and the monitor may go into shutdown after a short period.
For those interested in the repair and adjustment of this monitor through the interface and software:
Look at the rear of your monitor and find the small pop out plug (right side).
Pop off the cover and the interface connector should be visible there. With a proper cable, all adjustments can be made through this interface. The adjustment of G2 can be made, repairing the brightness problem of these monitors. I will set up a site pertaining to this somewhere (probably Geocities) in the next couple of weeks and post the link here.
If your screen is too dark, then maybe your G2 is too low. Do you have a way to measure it (100-600v)? Be aware input impedence of meter would affect the reading. How about your filament voltage? ...
Xweebie, my meter is a beginners' DT-830B branded "C E M", and sure enough the picture dies when I try to measure G2, both on 200V & 1000V scales. Anyway here are the values(obviously too low):
with no video, G2=98 V
with video(Win98 @800x600), G2=87 V.
These need to be adjusted to take account of meter impedence, if at all possible. I don't know which one is Filament , but also measured G1=0 V, H1=5.4 V, H2=0 V. KR, KG & KB all around 75-85 V.
BTW, present status of the monitor is: very readable but colors distorted after Color Return, brightness scale messed up(going down after 30%).
Sorry that I couldn't try the "R459 fix" yet, as I'm still looking for my misplaced soldering iron(haven't used it in months!). Have a good weekend, everybody!
well guys i have tried the resistor mod with inital success, a perfect black level!
There are some problems associated with colour gain and bias though. So, a tint in a certain colour will become apparent, easily recitified via onscreen menu.
My advice to you should implement this "fix" is NOT use image restoration feature(sony g500 model) ever again as this is the root of the problem.In my experience ,somehow, it writes flaky data to the eprom with continual use of this feature dominant tints alternate and you're back to square one with brightness issue.
I got a Dell P1110 for cheap, but with this problem. Probably gonna do the resistor trick since I'm not sure I'll have the equipment to do the DAS stuff.
Does anyone know of any long-term effects changing the resistors out might have? Something tells me that halving a resistance tends to do things like, say, double a current, which isn't normally a good thing (even if the resistor's power rating is adequate, who knows what the rest of the circuit can handle). Hence, adjusting G2 natively is probably the best route.
Primesuspect - I saw and am considering your offer, however I don't know yet if response will warrant the banner. I have manufactured some interface units. At the moment, they will be available in limited quantities. The process of repairing these monitors is now in a "testing" phase. During the testing, all that is needed for the repair will be offered at reduced prices. I don't know if Short-Media will allow me to post a link or prices here, so I will wait for your response. Thank you.
I to have a Dell p1110 with the brightness issue. I am going to try the resistor swap to fix it, but the Sony calibration software intrigued me and I would like to try it first. .
I did a bit of searching around the net and I do believe I have found a location to get both WinDAS and DaS(Dos Ver.). . I am not sure if it is allowed to post links to where I found the files. . So I will refrain from that at this moment.
All that is needed for me now is the interface cable.
(Edit) And A hardware dongle hack of sorts =/
seems this software requires a key/dongle attached to the LPT port =p
Xweebie, are you going to post the schematics for the cable?
i too would love one of these cables, either assembled, or just a schematic\parts list
we have a P1110 in here next to a new mitsubishi 22" and it looks to me like the p1110 "CAN" look better than the mitsu if its brightness was right
and even tho its meaningless i found out, holding in the center or contrast up button on power on, displays the monitors information, and hitting reset while its displayed resets it
so now my monitor is a , nothing, made in 1990, with no serial number..... but it seems thats all it effected
i will also need a copy of the sony software tho...
Hello, I have a Dell P791 with mitsubishi natural flat tube which has the same brightness problem, with the green cast... do you have any idea where to mount the resistor... please help me... it is reaaalllly bugging me :shakehead
it seems the only resistor that i can find locally is a 10m ohm 1/4w from radio shack. is that ok for the fix?
I think that 10M on the backside (leaving the other 10M in place on the other side) might be too bright: Your total resistance for the parallel 10's is only 5M. (I hope that you don't mean to REPLACE the one 10M with another, that accomplishes nothing). I tried to order a 16M for the parallel approach, but it languished as "backorder" for several weeks. The firm eventually sent me a pair of 6.8M 2W resistors for the standard "cut out the old one first" approach.
This higher-resistance-than-most-replacements was not quite enough change to yield a good brightness level at "50", I'm now running at "37". So a slightly lower resistance would have been better. Many people on this Thread have used a 6.2M resistor, and most of them are delighted. I think that a 6.2M would have been perfect for my monitor.
I'd special order a 6.2M from your Radio Shack, and wait for it. 10M is no worky, either as a replacement or in parallel. My 2W voltage/power rating was definitely overkill, 1/2W is plenty. 1/4W? Maybe, but I'd spend the extra nickel to assure that I only have to fix it once.
Only $1 per resistor, and USPS shipping for $3.90. They don't guarantee to have them all in stock, but the price can't be beat... and the 500V, 2W ratings beat the other resistors which I see in this thread.
Sizes shown for the 'replacement approach' include 4.7M, 5.1, 5.6, 6.2, and 6.8M.
I just put in an order for the 'put another in parallel on the top side' approach. My monitor is quite washed out, so I'm going with the 16M resistor (for a net resistance of slightly less than 6.2). I'll let you all know if/when it shows up, or if I have to switch to a different (in-stock) size.
Sincerely, Rick
Well, the 16M went Backorder for a long time. When I inquired about the status, they very nicely sent me a pair a 6.8M 2Ws at no charge. With a 6.8M, I'm now running with brightness at "38". Maybe 6.2M or 6.5M would be close to "50", but this looks GREAT, and I'm not gonna change it. I'm running with all Bias values at 50, Red Gain=86 (default for 6500K), Green and Blue gain at 80 (higher than the defaults for 6500K). I chose these setting visually, I'm not using any color setting tools (yet).
For the resistor mod, should one be using 1/4w resistors or 1w ?
I'd go 1W. With the "cause" being reported as "the resistor goes out of spec" in a couple of posts on this thread, you REALLY shouldn't want to save a nickel now and be forced to do it again in a couple years.
I actually used a 2W, but that's probably overkill. I have no idea of the voltage which is present across this connection.
The P1100 is on my short list of monitors that I'm considering buying, and I found this forum doing research on it.. (There is a seller on Ebay - cosmicdallas - selling 6 month warranty, A1 factory refurbs for $159 & free shipping... FYI ).. It's nice to know that this is a known problem that has a simple solution.. All you guys that have this (The Dell version), Are you happy with it? Since it's an old model, I can't go look at it in a store before I order it, and I don't want to have to pay to ship it back if I don't like it. The major thing I want to know is how visible/annoying are the aperture grille wire shadows, and how many are there? I've never used a Trinitron monitor, and from what I've read it's basically a 50/50 split whether it annoys people or not. I've heard the Trinitrons are a treat to look at though, compared to shadow mask monitors, and I've been living with a now permanent gauss mark on my old screen for a while so I should be able to deal with the shadows.
Thanks guys!
By the way, if you can get 1% Military spec resistors to do the fix, use them.. They cost a little more, but they're basically guaranteed to never fail again..
Matt
(I know this is a little off topic, sorry... )
I bought my P1100 without ever having seen it before in person, and am very, very happy with it!
I've also never seen a Trinitron monitor before, and to be honest I never even started to notice the lines until I had read that they were there in the first place. Also, they are IMPOSSIBLE to see unless you are staring at a mostly white screen, and are activly looking for them.
Comments
ohh.. and for those shopping in the 21" range, I determined that the GDM-5410 is much better than the DELL P1110 because the dell uses some obsolete driver chip for the brightness control. you'll know its dead when you turn the brightness all the way down and your blacks still look gray. if you do get a P1110 better look long and hard for that chip cause your gonna need it! the Sun monitor may use the same chip but I haven't seen as many dead ones as dell. - by k2h"[/QUOTE]
The problem has nothing to do with a "driver chip", but a resistor drifting out of spec. The "right way" to fix the problem is to connect the small port on the back of the monitor to the PC's serial port and adjust it from there. Problem is only Sony repair shops have such a cable.
EDIT: I should also add that these Dell branded monitors aren't the only ones with the problem. The Compaq P1100 has the same issue, as does the Sony monitor all of these are based off of (can't think of it's model # at the moment).
Did you ever succeed in making a cable for the sony das software? How about getting windas to run?
Regards
If you could hook me up with the schematics of the cable and the software that'd be SWEET! Please email me the stuff to thesmj*AT*gmail*DOT*com.
I have no idea.
Please read posts # 116 & 118 for my situation. I'm still waiting to try the "R459 fix" - in my case by adding more resistance. Will let you guys know.
"Radio", if I see a well-used 3-year old unit that still works well, then I'd buy it. The defect probably should have manifested by now.
If your screen is too dark, then maybe your G2 is too low. Do you have a way to measure it (100-600v)? Be aware input impedence of meter would affect the reading. How about your filament voltage? If trying the resistor fix, the resistor would be in parallel.
+R (series) = lower G2 / -R (parallel) = higher G2.
Your post 118 states that you now have brightness returned? In any case, it's best to know what V G2 is, so you know if you are dealing with that problem or something else.
For others, when G2 is much too high, scanlines may be visible and the monitor may go into shutdown after a short period.
Look at the rear of your monitor and find the small pop out plug (right side).
Pop off the cover and the interface connector should be visible there. With a proper cable, all adjustments can be made through this interface. The adjustment of G2 can be made, repairing the brightness problem of these monitors. I will set up a site pertaining to this somewhere (probably Geocities) in the next couple of weeks and post the link here.
will the fix for the p1110 get rid of the light grey while not degrade the details in the dark areas of a picture?
it seems the only resistor that i can find locally is a 10m ohm 1/4w from radio shack. is that ok for the fix?
Thanks
with no video, G2=98 V
with video(Win98 @800x600), G2=87 V.
These need to be adjusted to take account of meter impedence, if at all possible. I don't know which one is Filament
BTW, present status of the monitor is: very readable but colors distorted after Color Return, brightness scale messed up(going down after 30%).
Sorry that I couldn't try the "R459 fix" yet, as I'm still looking for my misplaced soldering iron(haven't used it in months!). Have a good weekend, everybody!
There are some problems associated with colour gain and bias though. So, a tint in a certain colour will become apparent, easily recitified via onscreen menu.
My advice to you should implement this "fix" is NOT use image restoration feature(sony g500 model) ever again as this is the root of the problem.In my experience ,somehow, it writes flaky data to the eprom with continual use of this feature dominant tints alternate and you're back to square one with brightness issue.
hope this assists someone.
seeya
I got a Dell P1110 for cheap, but with this problem. Probably gonna do the resistor trick since I'm not sure I'll have the equipment to do the DAS stuff.
Does anyone know of any long-term effects changing the resistors out might have? Something tells me that halving a resistance tends to do things like, say, double a current, which isn't normally a good thing (even if the resistor's power rating is adequate, who knows what the rest of the circuit can handle). Hence, adjusting G2 natively is probably the best route.
Thoughts?
Thanks in advance,
dave
Much thanks to slipkid for sending me a few of his spare resistors.
Now my calibrated G500 monitor has a brightness level of 79 - a vast improvment from 3!!!
I first tried the 4.7 resistor but that turned out way too dark. I then went to the 6.2 and that did it!!
What a Great tread!!!
I to have a Dell p1110 with the brightness issue. I am going to try the resistor swap to fix it, but the Sony calibration software intrigued me and I would like to try it first. .
I did a bit of searching around the net and I do believe I have found a location to get both WinDAS and DaS(Dos Ver.). . I am not sure if it is allowed to post links to where I found the files. . So I will refrain from that at this moment.
All that is needed for me now is the interface cable.
(Edit) And A hardware dongle hack of sorts =/
seems this software requires a key/dongle attached to the LPT port =p
Xweebie, are you going to post the schematics for the cable?
I am awaiting the schematics for this cable myself as well.
we have a P1110 in here next to a new mitsubishi 22" and it looks to me like the p1110 "CAN" look better than the mitsu if its brightness was right
and even tho its meaningless i found out, holding in the center or contrast up button on power on, displays the monitors information, and hitting reset while its displayed resets it
so now my monitor is a , nothing, made in 1990, with no serial number..... but it seems thats all it effected
i will also need a copy of the sony software tho...
Thnx
I think that 10M on the backside (leaving the other 10M in place on the other side) might be too bright: Your total resistance for the parallel 10's is only 5M. (I hope that you don't mean to REPLACE the one 10M with another, that accomplishes nothing). I tried to order a 16M for the parallel approach, but it languished as "backorder" for several weeks. The firm eventually sent me a pair of 6.8M 2W resistors for the standard "cut out the old one first" approach.
This higher-resistance-than-most-replacements was not quite enough change to yield a good brightness level at "50", I'm now running at "37". So a slightly lower resistance would have been better. Many people on this Thread have used a 6.2M resistor, and most of them are delighted. I think that a 6.2M would have been perfect for my monitor.
I'd special order a 6.2M from your Radio Shack, and wait for it. 10M is no worky, either as a replacement or in parallel. My 2W voltage/power rating was definitely overkill, 1/2W is plenty. 1/4W? Maybe, but I'd spend the extra nickel to assure that I only have to fix it once.
Well, the 16M went Backorder for a long time. When I inquired about the status, they very nicely sent me a pair a 6.8M 2Ws at no charge. With a 6.8M, I'm now running with brightness at "38". Maybe 6.2M or 6.5M would be close to "50", but this looks GREAT, and I'm not gonna change it. I'm running with all Bias values at 50, Red Gain=86 (default for 6500K), Green and Blue gain at 80 (higher than the defaults for 6500K). I chose these setting visually, I'm not using any color setting tools (yet).
I'd go 1W. With the "cause" being reported as "the resistor goes out of spec" in a couple of posts on this thread, you REALLY shouldn't want to save a nickel now and be forced to do it again in a couple years.
I actually used a 2W, but that's probably overkill. I have no idea of the voltage which is present across this connection.
Thanks guys!
By the way, if you can get 1% Military spec resistors to do the fix, use them.. They cost a little more, but they're basically guaranteed to never fail again..
Matt
(I know this is a little off topic, sorry...
I've also never seen a Trinitron monitor before, and to be honest I never even started to notice the lines until I had read that they were there in the first place. Also, they are IMPOSSIBLE to see unless you are staring at a mostly white screen, and are activly looking for them.