I'm not sure, but the iiyama pro 21 that Th3_uN1Qu3 mentioned is perhaps an older model dates back to '97 or '98, they use shadow mask Hitachi tubes, not diamondtron. I'm sure that Mitsubishi diamondtrons need purple AR coating. Until the launch of the 3rd-gen Diamondtron tube, known as M2 (monitor models Mitsubishi RDF223/2070/NEC FE2111, etc., ) Diamondtrons tubes were considered inferior than Sony. However, M2 is such a great tube, which outperform Sony FD tubes in many ways: better brightness, greater transparency, and its convergence - overall clarity is at least not worse than Sony, most of all, M2s are very reliable and generally have a much longer lifespan than Sony FD tubes. The color standards of Trinitron and Mitsubishi are different. Sony tubes present a deeper (more saturated) yet natural picture, while Mitsubishis are emphasizing on color transparency and a deeper black level. It's no way to tell which brand of tube is truly superior in terms of color quality.
Still haven't gotten around to picking that iiyama up. I know that the one i had and broke was a Diamondtron (the layout of the pixels gave it away), but it wasn't perfectly flat IIRC, and it certainly didn't have any anti glare coating.
I just found out there is a way to make WinDAS work in Windows 64-bit. It is confirmed to work in Windows 7 and I think it will also work with Vista. Instead of putting the msflxgrd.ocx file in the system32 folder, put it in the sysWOW64 folder. It should go int (windows directory)\sysWOW64\msflxgrd.ocx. After this, type this command: regsvr32 \windows\syswow64\msflxgrd.ocx and it should register. Now WinDAS should be good to go in Windows 64-bit.
Yay! No more having to use Windows XP Mode in Virtual Machine.
HELP! GDM-5411 jitters in Windows after linux games test
I am using a SGI/Sony GDM-5411 monitor. Due to a homemade VGA switch and a 3Dfx Voodoo 1 card wired in series, the resolution 1280x1024 on Win98SE only looks sharp at 60Hz (higher frame rates blur and cause echoes at vertical edges). Now I upgraded my Linux partition to the Debian Squeeze distro and finally managed to get the 3D acceleration of my Riva TNT2/64 graphics card to work (had to downgrade Xorg to 1.4 from Lenny distro and install the original NVIDIA-Linux-x86-71.86.15-pkg1.run package downloaded from Nvidia site - the version from Debian Sid or Wheezy distros don't work at all with Xorg and mess everything up). On Linux KDE4 I used a higher frame rate (85Hz?) because at 60Hz the picture position didn't match with Windows - forcing me to readjust them on the monitor when I switched between both operating systems.
After gladly trying out various Linux games those had never worked before (including PlanetPenguin-Racer, CircusLinux, BugSquish, PowerManga - partly in strange resolutions) I booted back to Win98SE and found its graphics mode completely messed up. The geometry was so misadjusted that the way too small picture was almost round (barrel distortion), and when I adjusted it back to normal, I saw that everything is blurred by extreme horizontal jitter. It looks like when the monitor attempts to do interlace in horizontal instead vertical direction, i.e. every 2nd scanline is alternately shifted zigzag by 2mm left and right, causing a 2mm shifted flickering double image. The zigzag is not static but switches every frame (like interlace) and so turns into a fuzzy blur.
I have rebooted, pressed reset on the monitor etc. but nothing helps. Most bizarre is that this happens now *only* in the mode 1280x1024@60Hz, so as an emergency fix I have set Win98SE to 70Hz now (which is generally blurrier, so I want my 60Hz back). What has happened? I suspect that Linux (Nvidia driver on Riva TNT2/64) somehow has overwritten the original 1280x1024@60Hz (="MODE7" according to service manual) setting in the monitor firmware, or the monitor did this by itself by a firmware bug when it ran out of user settings memory. (I only hope this is no self-destruction timer hidden in the firmware, because my previous WinDAS fix (2012-12-13) happened almost exactly 1 year ago.)
I already tried to vary the 1280x1024@60Hz mode on Linux with xvidtune using slightly changed parameters (e.g. 1320x1035@61Hz still works) to make the monitor recognize it again, but it does not repair the original mode. I remember that long ago my old (2nd) Linux partition once showed a jitter picture by an incompatible modeline, but it never affected Windoze.
The only thing I yet haven't touched again at all is the obnoxious "colour return" feature, which known-bad algorithm rather eventually destroys than improves the picture quality by making the screen turn pale. Without that bugger my GDM-5411 holds darkness yet fairly well when warm; it only goes bright when cold. My brightness setting is around 31 and there was no need to readjust with WinDAS since 1 year despite it is running many hours per day.
- Is there a way to fix this?
Multiscan monitors indeed contain in series to the horizontal yoke a bank of many different capacitors switched by FETs to change the horizontal linearity for different frequencies. A faulty one might have selective effects, but I doubt that it would respond that sharp.
Can this really be a hardware damage when it only affects a single mode, or should I try to reupload my old WinDAS backup .dat file into the monitor?
MAY THE SOFTWARE BE WITH YOU!
*============================================================================*
I CYBERYOGI Christian Oliver(=CO=) Windler I
I (teachmaster of LOGOLOGIE - the first cyberage-religion!) I
I ! I
*=============================ABANDON=THE=BRUTALITY==========================*
{http://weltenschule.de/e_index.html}
My current P1110 is having a new problem, sometimes it makes a loud click then all the colors go off, things have a yellowish/green tint - I guess something inside unrelated to G2 (which I had fixed with Windas) is failing.
Can anyone answer a couple Qs for me? Some may already be discussed in this thread but I don't have time to reread it all....
(1) What other makes/models are also the same as the "DELL P1110"?
I hazily recall it was also sold branded as Compaq, Sony, and HP but can't remember what models. I am looking to pickup another Dell P1110 but haven't found any but see other 21" trinitron "brands/models" that look similar. I want to get the same as the P1110 so I can use Windas like I do with this one. Is the Sony CPD-G520 the same thing? I see one on Craigslist now but researching that model it seems to have a lot of complaints about the display "shaking" so I'm thinking it is not a P1100 (?).
(2) Any clues on what might cause my current monitor to spazz out occasionally & screw up the colors?
I'm not sure about the click thing but I've had problems before with colors due to a bad DVI-to-VGA adapter. Is this just a slight tint or does it look like one or more colors are completely missing?
Also, I'm almost positive the G520 lets you use Windas if you found one cheap enough and wanted to give it a shot.
I'm not sure about the click thing but I've had problems before with colors due to a bad DVI-to-VGA adapter. Is this just a slight tint or does it look like one or more colors are completely missing?
Also, I'm almost positive the G520 lets you use Windas if you found one cheap enough and wanted to give it a shot.
OK thanks.
I'm still a little gunshy with it because of all the complaints I read about the display shaking/shimmering though. It is on Craigslist now, not super close to me but not too far, although kind of a pain....if it was a P1110 I would go for it....or if it was real close by....add the two together and I'm thinking it is not worth the hassle though.
I'm not sure about the click thing but I've had problems before with colors due to a bad DVI-to-VGA adapter. Is this just a slight tint or does it look like one or more colors are completely missing?
Oops, forgot to respond to this first part of your reply.
I'm not sure how to describe it - I guess a tint to everything is closer than something missing, although the tint could be due to something missing. It is not like this all the time though. I could go for hours & it is fine then one day it just goes "click" inside and then the colors fritz out and I'm left with things looking kind of greenish/yellow. I live with it, turn it off and next time I turn it on it is usually OK.
On my SGI/Sony GDM-5411 recently also the black is growing more bluish. I haven't dared "color return" yet due to known-bad algorithm (is once a year safe?). Also the convergence in the left upper corner went worse - likely because I have now velcroed a mechanical 4x KVM switch with steel case to the right monitor side to keep cables as short as possible. (Previously I used for my Amiga a hacked "TV Mouse" 2x VGA switch including a very modified CVBS/RGB converter for C64 (which anyway only worked with true 25Hz mode monitors).) May be I need to readjust convergence with WinDAS to adapt it to the changed magnetic environment.
At least the new KVM switch (with individually shielded RGB leads) makes proper sharpness at 70Hz. (The 60Hz mode died after testing some Linux games; may be a capacitor in the horizontal linearity circuit went bad that is only used at that particular mode?) I found out that with a KVM switch it is absolutely neccessary to use the same VGA cable type (I used individually shielded RGB leads) for the monitor and PC side - else it causes plenty of echoes in the picture by reflections at the changing impedance in the middle of the line.
I bought a FW900 a while ago and put my P1130 in storage. I now decided to rapair it so it works properly when I need it.
Anyway, I resoldered all connections on the video board (the one with VGA connectors) and now the monitor starts showing image quickly (previously it took about a minute to "warm up") and no longer blinks blue. I also borrowed a colorimeter and ran the white point adjustment. The colors now look OK, still a bit of green on the default presets, but not as much as before and I can set the "expert" settings to where it looks OK (should run a calibration on it though, I wonder how off the "looks OK" is.
The monitor is still too bright when cold and too green. Annoying but I can live with it. My FW900 is also a bit too bright when cold (and the image is too big) but is not green.
However, a new problem appeared (or more likely, was uncovered because I fixed the other problems:
When the monitor is cold, it does not always turn on. When I press the power button, it degausses itself and the heaters start glowing, but there is no EHT (it is possible to hear it when the EHT turns on on all CRT TVs/monitors). Then the power led starts blinking orange. WinDAS says the fault is "LOW_B_STOP". I guess this is yet another bad connection, since after a few attempts it works just fine. The question is which area is responsible for the B voltage (since I probably will have to resolder it too).
Hello, everybody, Since some weeks, my Formac ProNitron 21/750 (a rebranded P1110) is making strange noises several times a day, when it's warm.
It's like a "kling", and I can see a very brief (and almost not visible) flash in the middle of the screen. I previously had similar phenomenons with some other CRTs, each time with no consequences. But this one makes it a little more frequently.
I guess it's high voltage related. Or maybe an occasional short in the tube ? Otherwise, the unit works like a charm and shows a beautiful image.
If anyone have an idea where I could investigate to fix this problem ? (I'm quite comfortable with a soldering iron...)
When the monitor is cold, it does not always turn on. When I press the power button, it degausses itself and the heaters start glowing, but there is no EHT (it is possible to hear it when the EHT turns on on all CRT TVs/monitors). Then the power led starts blinking orange. WinDAS says the fault is "LOW_B_STOP". I guess this is yet another bad connection, since after a few attempts it works just fine. The question is which area is responsible for the B voltage (since I probably will have to resolder it too).
The B+ is generated by the power supply and then fed into the flyback transformer by the horizontal output transistor. Check the schematic, the parts are easy to spot, they're big.
Has anyone tried to remove the AR/AG coating off a Dell P1130 ? I have several such monitors that are in good condition except for the destroyed coatings...
If so, can you put some pics with it OFF and ON ? I'm curious about how the "naked glass" looks like and if the black level is ruined if you do this !
Thanks !
I am amazed that this discussion about a CRT monitor model has been going on for almost 10 years now. Every forum that tells its member not to revive old thread have been wrong.
That said I switched from my Dell P11?? a long time ago and I've been using projectors as a main display. Full HD DLP projectors are amazing and cheap to run !
> I am amazed that this discussion about a CRT monitor model has been going on for almost 10 years now.
That's because nothing has yet replaced CRT technology.
Well of course, they are great for gaming and graphics. Some people have said that 4K OLEDs are coming close to the FW900, but I won't believe it until I see it for myself.
Well, I've long since gone to LED monitors but I owned two if you care to read back on my help in resolving the issues with this model. I work for IBM and have been doing this for 35 years. CRT is great but LED with the black levels, brightness and thin footprint is my bet. Next it will be holograms. I'll own one. lol
Guys, Wow... after all theses years you are still talking about it. I had the P11xx and came here to fix the brightness. It worked, thanks. I also owned an FW900. Best CRT I ever had. I bought my wife a Dell Ultrasharp 24", and back then they were almost $900. When I saw how awesome the picture was, I never looked back. The ONLY thing that was handy about CRT's was the ability to display arbitrary resolutions without it looking terrible. I have a Dell 30" Ultrasharp now, but I am drooling over the 4K 32" model. For the low low price of $3500.
My father bought a 19'' Samsung TV (to replace a broken 37cm CRT TV in bedroom). I adjusted the colours and I immediately noticed the lousy motion rendering. My Saba Ultracolor 51cm TV from 1978 (colours calibrated and some hardware hacks inside) looks so much more vivid and motion so much better than this thing. I don't give a Hoover Dam about the flicker-free brighter TFT picture (disturbs sleep and thus not recommended anyway) and also PAL resolution on the Samsung IMO isn't really better (although better than the replaced 37cm CRT). During colour adjustment I noticed that the Samsung piece of poop even badly blurs(!) bright objects when contrast is set >71 (this is nowhere mentioned in the manual).
In a MediaMarkt shopping center I watched first time a quite big and 9000EUR expensive curved OLED TV. Its motion rendering really isn't bad (although still not perfect - possibly result of H264 data reduction). They should make cheap small ones with this technology (and fast enough ICs to support 1980th lightgun games). Unfortunately OLED doesn't seem to be reliable yet. When I stared longer at it, I discovered a darker burnt-in circular "OLED TV" logo in the upper right corner. My Nokia 417TV is running about 14h/day, thus an OLED with such poor longevity surely would die within 1 or 2 years in my home. The flatscreen I like hasn't been invented yet.
I wouldn't consider the replaced grainy 37cm CRT completely better than that Samsung, but both TVs have the same amount of flaws - only in different ways.
Update: I got sick of trying to pick the exact resistor I needed, so I just put a 22M resistor back in and hooked my P992 up to my laptop and used WinDAS. It worked great. I don't know why other people were having problems with the P992 and WinDAS.
the problem people encountered wasn't with windas exactly.
the problems mainly was messing with the dat file without having a backup, or error in the cable it self, or not using proper editor.
otherwise it should work perfectly.
i for my self want to use windas but i couldn't find proper cable, and local stores charge unresonable price for the ic max232(about $8), so i stuck with using resistors.
anyway i have a problem.
my monitor is compaq p1100, it has two vga inputs, the second input is working fine but when using the first input the brightness seems to fluctuate, and its very annoying, the monitor has a light sensor too but even when the sensor is turned off the problem still exist.
i have been told that the transistor that control the brightness need to be changed, and frankly i dont know where this transistor locate.
if anyone know the solution for this problem or can determin where this transistor is located reply to me.
click here for the schematic diagram.
thanks
I have successfully saved the firmware twice but, i can't find the G2 value with in the built in windas viewer. I'm thinking about manually editing the file like in this p991 video,
I wonder if the info from this thread could be organized?
I am still using CRT. Yet nothing beats motion rendition, and modern 16:19 is awful for reading text. My SGI GDM-5411 is still working, although particularly when cold it got too bright/pale, and the black turned somewhat bluish. I guess I need to readjust it somewhen, but I not really dare to select "colour return" because it seems to increment the obsolescence timer or at least uses a known-bad algorithm.
Comments
I'm sure that Mitsubishi diamondtrons need purple AR coating. Until the launch of the 3rd-gen Diamondtron tube, known as M2 (monitor models Mitsubishi RDF223/2070/NEC FE2111, etc., ) Diamondtrons tubes were considered inferior than Sony. However, M2 is such a great tube, which outperform Sony FD tubes in many ways: better brightness, greater transparency, and its convergence - overall clarity is at least not worse than Sony, most of all, M2s are very reliable and generally have a much longer lifespan than Sony FD tubes.
The color standards of Trinitron and Mitsubishi are different. Sony tubes present a deeper (more saturated) yet natural picture, while Mitsubishis are emphasizing on color transparency and a deeper black level. It's no way to tell which brand of tube is truly superior in terms of color quality.
regsvr32 \windows\syswow64\msflxgrd.ocx
and it should register. Now WinDAS should be good to go in Windows 64-bit.
Yay! No more having to use Windows XP Mode in Virtual Machine.
I am using a SGI/Sony GDM-5411 monitor. Due to a homemade VGA switch and a 3Dfx Voodoo 1 card wired in series, the resolution 1280x1024 on Win98SE only looks sharp at 60Hz (higher frame rates blur and cause echoes at vertical edges). Now I upgraded my Linux partition to the Debian Squeeze distro and finally managed to get the 3D acceleration of my Riva TNT2/64 graphics card to work (had to downgrade Xorg to 1.4 from Lenny distro and install the original NVIDIA-Linux-x86-71.86.15-pkg1.run package downloaded from Nvidia site - the version from Debian Sid or Wheezy distros don't work at all with Xorg and mess everything up). On Linux KDE4 I used a higher frame rate (85Hz?) because at 60Hz the picture position didn't match with Windows - forcing me to readjust them on the monitor when I switched between both operating systems.
After gladly trying out various Linux games those had never worked before (including PlanetPenguin-Racer, CircusLinux, BugSquish, PowerManga - partly in strange resolutions) I booted back to Win98SE and found its graphics mode completely messed up. The geometry was so misadjusted that the way too small picture was almost round (barrel distortion), and when I adjusted it back to normal, I saw that everything is blurred by extreme horizontal jitter. It looks like when the monitor attempts to do interlace in horizontal instead vertical direction, i.e. every 2nd scanline is alternately shifted zigzag by 2mm left and right, causing a 2mm shifted flickering double image. The zigzag is not static but switches every frame (like interlace) and so turns into a fuzzy blur.
I have rebooted, pressed reset on the monitor etc. but nothing helps. Most bizarre is that this happens now *only* in the mode 1280x1024@60Hz, so as an emergency fix I have set Win98SE to 70Hz now (which is generally blurrier, so I want my 60Hz back). What has happened? I suspect that Linux (Nvidia driver on Riva TNT2/64) somehow has overwritten the original 1280x1024@60Hz (="MODE7" according to service manual) setting in the monitor firmware, or the monitor did this by itself by a firmware bug when it ran out of user settings memory. (I only hope this is no self-destruction timer hidden in the firmware, because my previous WinDAS fix (2012-12-13) happened almost exactly 1 year ago.)
I already tried to vary the 1280x1024@60Hz mode on Linux with xvidtune using slightly changed parameters (e.g. 1320x1035@61Hz still works) to make the monitor recognize it again, but it does not repair the original mode. I remember that long ago my old (2nd) Linux partition once showed a jitter picture by an incompatible modeline, but it never affected Windoze.
The only thing I yet haven't touched again at all is the obnoxious "colour return" feature, which known-bad algorithm rather eventually destroys than improves the picture quality by making the screen turn pale. Without that bugger my GDM-5411 holds darkness yet fairly well when warm; it only goes bright when cold. My brightness setting is around 31 and there was no need to readjust with WinDAS since 1 year despite it is running many hours per day.
- Is there a way to fix this?
Multiscan monitors indeed contain in series to the horizontal yoke a bank of many different capacitors switched by FETs to change the horizontal linearity for different frequencies. A faulty one might have selective effects, but I doubt that it would respond that sharp.
Can this really be a hardware damage when it only affects a single mode, or should I try to reupload my old WinDAS backup .dat file into the monitor?
MAY THE SOFTWARE BE WITH YOU! *============================================================================* I CYBERYOGI Christian Oliver(=CO=) Windler I I (teachmaster of LOGOLOGIE - the first cyberage-religion!) I I ! I *=============================ABANDON=THE=BRUTALITY==========================* {http://weltenschule.de/e_index.html}My current P1110 is having a new problem, sometimes it makes a loud click then all the colors go off, things have a yellowish/green tint - I guess something inside unrelated to G2 (which I had fixed with Windas) is failing.
Can anyone answer a couple Qs for me? Some may already be discussed in this thread but I don't have time to reread it all....
(1) What other makes/models are also the same as the "DELL P1110"?
I hazily recall it was also sold branded as Compaq, Sony, and HP but can't remember what models. I am looking to pickup another Dell P1110 but haven't found any but see other 21" trinitron "brands/models" that look similar. I want to get the same as the P1110 so I can use Windas like I do with this one. Is the Sony CPD-G520 the same thing? I see one on Craigslist now but researching that model it seems to have a lot of complaints about the display "shaking" so I'm thinking it is not a P1100 (?).
(2) Any clues on what might cause my current monitor to spazz out occasionally & screw up the colors?
THANKS.
Hey, does anyone know if Windas works with models OTHER than the Dell P1110/Sony G500? Or do I need to only look for strictly compatible P1110 models?
Also, I'm almost positive the G520 lets you use Windas if you found one cheap enough and wanted to give it a shot.
I'm still a little gunshy with it because of all the complaints I read about the display shaking/shimmering though. It is on Craigslist now, not super close to me but not too far, although kind of a pain....if it was a P1110 I would go for it....or if it was real close by....add the two together and I'm thinking it is not worth the hassle though.
I'm not sure how to describe it - I guess a tint to everything is closer than something missing, although the tint could be due to something missing. It is not like this all the time though. I could go for hours & it is fine then one day it just goes "click" inside and then the colors fritz out and I'm left with things looking kind of greenish/yellow. I live with it, turn it off and next time I turn it on it is usually OK.
At least the new KVM switch (with individually shielded RGB leads) makes proper sharpness at 70Hz. (The 60Hz mode died after testing some Linux games; may be a capacitor in the horizontal linearity circuit went bad that is only used at that particular mode?) I found out that with a KVM switch it is absolutely neccessary to use the same VGA cable type (I used individually shielded RGB leads) for the monitor and PC side - else it causes plenty of echoes in the picture by reflections at the changing impedance in the middle of the line.
Anyway, I resoldered all connections on the video board (the one with VGA connectors) and now the monitor starts showing image quickly (previously it took about a minute to "warm up") and no longer blinks blue. I also borrowed a colorimeter and ran the white point adjustment. The colors now look OK, still a bit of green on the default presets, but not as much as before and I can set the "expert" settings to where it looks OK (should run a calibration on it though, I wonder how off the "looks OK" is.
The monitor is still too bright when cold and too green. Annoying but I can live with it. My FW900 is also a bit too bright when cold (and the image is too big) but is not green.
However, a new problem appeared (or more likely, was uncovered because I fixed the other problems:
When the monitor is cold, it does not always turn on. When I press the power button, it degausses itself and the heaters start glowing, but there is no EHT (it is possible to hear it when the EHT turns on on all CRT TVs/monitors). Then the power led starts blinking orange. WinDAS says the fault is "LOW_B_STOP". I guess this is yet another bad connection, since after a few attempts it works just fine. The question is which area is responsible for the B voltage (since I probably will have to resolder it too).
Since some weeks, my Formac ProNitron 21/750 (a rebranded P1110) is making strange noises several times a day, when it's warm.
It's like a "kling", and I can see a very brief (and almost not visible) flash in the middle of the screen.
I previously had similar phenomenons with some other CRTs, each time with no consequences.
But this one makes it a little more frequently.
I guess it's high voltage related. Or maybe an occasional short in the tube ?
Otherwise, the unit works like a charm and shows a beautiful image.
If anyone have an idea where I could investigate to fix this problem ?
(I'm quite comfortable with a soldering iron...)
If so, can you put some pics with it OFF and ON ? I'm curious about how the "naked glass" looks like and if the black level is ruined if you do this !
Thanks !
That said I switched from my Dell P11?? a long time ago and I've been using projectors as a main display. Full HD DLP projectors are amazing and cheap to run !
> I am amazed that this discussion about a CRT monitor model has been going on for almost 10 years now.
That's because nothing has yet replaced CRT technology.
Some people have said that 4K OLEDs are coming close to the FW900, but I won't believe it until I see it for myself.
Wow... after all theses years you are still talking about it. I had the P11xx and came here to fix the brightness. It worked, thanks. I also owned an FW900. Best CRT I ever had. I bought my wife a Dell Ultrasharp 24", and back then they were almost $900. When I saw how awesome the picture was, I never looked back. The ONLY thing that was handy about CRT's was the ability to display arbitrary resolutions without it looking terrible. I have a Dell 30" Ultrasharp now, but I am drooling over the 4K 32" model. For the low low price of $3500.
Take care,
z
My father bought a 19'' Samsung TV (to replace a broken 37cm CRT TV in bedroom). I adjusted the colours and I immediately noticed the lousy motion rendering. My Saba Ultracolor 51cm TV from 1978 (colours calibrated and some hardware hacks inside) looks so much more vivid and motion so much better than this thing. I don't give a Hoover Dam about the flicker-free brighter TFT picture (disturbs sleep and thus not recommended anyway) and also PAL resolution on the Samsung IMO isn't really better (although better than the replaced 37cm CRT). During colour adjustment I noticed that the Samsung piece of poop even badly blurs(!) bright objects when contrast is set >71 (this is nowhere mentioned in the manual).
In a MediaMarkt shopping center I watched first time a quite big and 9000EUR expensive curved OLED TV. Its motion rendering really isn't bad (although still not perfect - possibly result of H264 data reduction). They should make cheap small ones with this technology (and fast enough ICs to support 1980th lightgun games). Unfortunately OLED doesn't seem to be reliable yet. When I stared longer at it, I discovered a darker burnt-in circular "OLED TV" logo in the upper right corner. My Nokia 417TV is running about 14h/day, thus an OLED with such poor longevity surely would die within 1 or 2 years in my home. The flatscreen I like hasn't been invented yet.
I have successfully saved the firmware twice but, i can't find the G2 value with in the built in windas viewer. I'm thinking about manually editing the file like in this p991 video,
I wonder if the info from this thread could be organized?
my god.....is a ten year discussing
I am still using CRT. Yet nothing beats motion rendition, and modern 16:19 is awful for reading text. My SGI GDM-5411 is still working, although particularly when cold it got too bright/pale, and the black turned somewhat bluish. I guess I need to readjust it somewhen, but I not really dare to select "colour return" because it seems to increment the obsolescence timer or at least uses a known-bad algorithm.