WTF is up with my monitor? (warning: large pix)
Ok, so this problem showed up first on the secondary input, and now it's on both and it's worse than ever. I know it's a monitor issue because it does it on all 4 computers (ATi R128, ATi R8500, ATi R9700 Pro, ATi R7500m) and it does it both with and without the KVM switch. It does it with multiple cables as well, so the only thing that hasn't changed is the monitor. Please please please don't tell me the monitor is fubarred because this was a friggin' $900 monitor and I don't want to drop another $1k on a monitor :bawling:
Look at the edges of everything. See the blurring? that's the issue. As I'm typing this, the smilies are all almost doubled
BTW, the monitor in question is a Sony CPD-G520 21" Professional series monitor that's about 3 years old... it's been pretty lightly used (turned off when not in use usually, used maybe 3-4hrs a day at most usually)
Pic 1:
Look at the edges of everything. See the blurring? that's the issue. As I'm typing this, the smilies are all almost doubled
BTW, the monitor in question is a Sony CPD-G520 21" Professional series monitor that's about 3 years old... it's been pretty lightly used (turned off when not in use usually, used maybe 3-4hrs a day at most usually)
Pic 1:
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Comments
Try degaussing mebe?
However, i'd say it's on its last legs
Tried degaussing, no effect. It's degaussed regularly (like once a week) anyhow. Also tried playing with the convergence, which also had no effect.
Does it do this on all resolutions, other than 1600 x 1200?
Also you haven't recently put any magnetic devices, like large speakers, close to the monitor have you, that messed with my dell branded sony 19", but mainly with funky ass discoloration.
Mancabus, no I haven't put anything magnetic in the area of the monitor... I'll look into having it degaussed professionally, but I think this is actually a problem with the cathode ray gun not being properly aligned...
The TV repairman could probably help you with that as well, if he were at all competant.
There is stuff inside which can kill you, even with the power off and the monitor unplugged. (Big-ass capacitors, etc).
I have worked on monitors and any fairly recent model has tons of things to adjust inside - way more powerful than the color/contrast/brightness controls you get to mess with on the outside (they are basically for fine tuning, not major adjustments which are done at the factory).
It looks to me like you need to tweak the focus potentiometer (pot). I have "fixed" many monitors with a little plastic screwdriver by finding the focus pot and adjusting it. All the different pots are usually marked on the circuit board as to what they are.
Professional degaussing might help, since it's much more powerful than the built-in degaussing feature. The gadget used looks like a hula hoop. Watching someone who knows what they are doing use one is like watching a mystic ritual. You have to approach the monitor at a certain angle, power on/off the degausser at the proper times, etc. If you do it wrong you can actually magnetize (the opposite of degaussing) the thing.
If you just can't resist opening the cover be very careful, stand on a rubber mat, and keep one hand in your pocket (use the other to adjust the focus pot with an all plastic screwdriver. Don't even think about using metal tools once the case screws have been loosened. Stay away from the thing that looks like a rubber suction cup on the top of the CRT!
But pay the money and have a pro look at it - just make sure you get a reputable repair shop and ask about all the fees beforehand. Years ago I used to work for a crook (out of business now) who would tweak the focus pot (five minutes) then bill the customer for $250 in parts plus an hours labor at $80.
(Also - if it's gone that far out of focus that quickly it may be a sign that a component is failing. You might be able to get it back to normal, only to see it continue to go fuzzy later on).
Good Luck!
After the monitor was finaly replaced, I set it asside to possibly use in the future (just a little fuzzy in no reason to toss it).
A few months later, I hooked it up to a computer in the office, and it works just fine now. I'm not sure if it's because it was off for so long, or if time would have healed it either way, but it seems that it was not a permanent problem.
Of course, your problem could be totaly different.
Have you tried:
On the onscreen display, shift picture LEFT (aim is to right of center from picture's point of view). IN XP, autoarrange desktop ICONS then sort by name.. Then change width a bit to suit, narrow and widen.
I also have had boxes not maintain V & H sync on wakeup. Can you power down just monitor for 3-4 hours and leave machine on and eithre get a replication or a correction, if so which???
Has monitor been jostled or bumped hard??? That can throw aim off. OSD width and aiming could be off. Too WIDE for res and refresh rates and syncing plus a slight misaim can do this. COMBO effect, not single issue only. This does not look like just a misaim. Also, aim is a tib high, the whitish line at top of pic tells me this.
Otherwise RMA the thing.
John.
I spent about 4 hours pissing round with the controls on the monitor adjusting everthing on it, eventually I sorted it. Dont give up hope
Vsync can be refresh rate for frame, H sync is Horizontal Sync, H size should be on OSD, V size shuold be OSD only, VPos is vertical aim fine tuning, HPos is horizontal aim fine tuning, and real fine tuning used to be done with the monitor LIVE and calibration displays running.
In this case, one unfortunate possibility is that the monitor MIGHT faintly possibly have been surged and have a damaged power circuit. I have seen similar results to that when the gun is not getting nearly enough power as well as what was talked about above.
John.
A large magnet, like that in a BASS speaker, can toss a monitor for a loop if within 2-3 feet of a monitor. Ideally the BASS speakers in computer speakers should be 3-4 FEET minimum away from monitor. STEREO BASS speakers should be 6 feet or more away from monitor, ditto the deep BASS computer speakers in 5-speaker high-end computer sets.
Put one in front or to side and you will get distortion of major sorts, so if you have a BASS capable speaker with the magnet in front and to LEFT of monitor or on left SIDE of monitor power it and monitor down, let monitor be off for 3-6 hours and with speaker still powered down try looking at live (now powered up) monitor and see if OSD will let it adjust right with speaker off. If so, you got large external mag field (EFI) tossing your monitor's circuitry out of kilter, possibly including the power circuitry with EFI riding on power cycling inside monitor.
I can take a large magnet from a BASS speaker and replicate this on my monitor for a VERY short time (3-4 SECONDS-- keep it near for a long time (more than 4-5 minutes) and 3-4 total degausses AND a gun circuit drain will be needed, an hour or more apart for degausses, to get the monitor to recover and long term mag field exposure will TRASH a monitor as the circuits will be mis-compensating in many ways and might be damaged also internally from both heat and intense EFI exposure).
John.
Tried resizing the image, which doesn't have any effect.
Leaving it off for several hours (with one of the computers still on) doesn't have any effect.
There's nothing magnetic around the monitor except the dinky (3") satellite speakers for my speaker system, and those are magnetically shielded, and don't bother the monitor a bit.
It's most definitely an issue with the monitor itself- I've used 3 different cables, 4 different computers, and it has the issue with all of them. I bought a KVM switch on Friday, but the monitor has been doing this for a month or more (on the second input anyhow) and the KVM switch has no effect, either. So, since everything else has been changed, it's got to be the monitor.
Necropolis:
How did you manage to fiddle with the damn OSD controls for 4 hours without going totally insane? The stupid rocker switch for the OSD is one of the most irritating things I've ever seen. :rolleyes2
mmonnin:
You're right that it's not the voltage, but the amperage that'll kill you. However, 20kv is enough voltage that it doesn't take much amperage, and CRTs have a pretty high amperage (relatively speaking, that is) in addition to the high voltage.
May not be the same model as yours but the incentive for playing with it for 4 hours was I knew if I got it working I would have got a 21" monitor for free
Second: Do you get this effect at the post screen and in BIOS?
If you do then it is most likely the monitor itself that needs to go in for warranty work. The other test would be to try a different video card.