Swiftech MCW20 Chipset WaterBlock

Omega65Omega65 Philadelphia, Pa
edited November 2003 in Hardware
Swiftech MCW20 Chipset WaterBlock

Introducing the MCW20™ series of extreme duty water-blocks designed for high front side bus frequency chipsets. This line of products is specifically intended to minimize flow restriction.

Extreme performance
    o 1/2" OD tubing for optimal flow rate o Completely hollow chamber to minimize pressure drop (flow restriction)
Plug-and-Play, hassle-free installation
    o Hooks directly to Intel® platform chispets without removing the motherboard with a safe hook/spring assembly o Thru-motherboard installation for AMD® platform chipsets with slotted brackets for compatibility from 2.05" (52.1mm) to 2.41" (61.4mm) center to center distance between mounting holes. o Tool-free quick-connect fittings built into the block
Three models are available, using different retention mechanisms for compatibility with a wide variety of platforms
    o MCW20-A™ for AMD® processor platforms - see compatibility specifications o MCW20-P™ for Intel® processor platforms - see compatibility specifications - SHIPPING 10/5/2003 o MCW20-R™ (Retail version) includes both retention mechanisms - SHIPPING 10/5/2003

Comments

  • TheLostSwedeTheLostSwede Trondheim, Norway Icrontian
    edited September 2003
    Thats a beuty, but again, wrong fittings.

    I can´t understand why they stick with 1/2 OD.
  • ThraxThrax 🐌 Austin, TX Icrontian
    edited September 2003
    Isn't 1/2 OD optimal? That's all I see all over the place. Or are you wanting 1/2 ID (Which is goddamn bloody huge)?
  • TheLostSwedeTheLostSwede Trondheim, Norway Icrontian
    edited September 2003
    I want the 1/2 ID, yes. Its huge but very good if you want to have long tubing for less flow resistance and/or if you have 3 blocks and more than one radiator.

    The 1/2 ID they state should be taken with a grain of salt. Cause if you use the tubeinserting that they advice you to do, that 1/2 is cutted to less than 3/8 even. It´s alright if the radiator fittings is a little smaller but not the blocks.

    The other thing with their fittings is that you never know how long you have to put the tubing in. To long will cut the flow and to short will get you leaks. Not a safe way in my opinion. Good old hoseclamps is way better and safer.
  • Geeky1Geeky1 University of the Pacific (Stockton, CA, USA)
    edited September 2003
    Mack, you're still using 1/2" ID? I would've figured that you would have rigged up some way of using 1" ID tubing on everything by now :D
  • ThraxThrax 🐌 Austin, TX Icrontian
    edited September 2003
    Mack, you realize you can get 1/2" ID barbs for the swiftech series and use hose + hoseclamp just like other designs?
  • TheLostSwedeTheLostSwede Trondheim, Norway Icrontian
    edited September 2003
    Thrax,

    As far as i know, the holes in the Swiftys isn´t threaded so you have to glue/silicone the stuff which i am against.

    Geeky,

    Yeah, i found some barbs with 1/4 threads in vinyl/plastic here that was pretty cheap. With threadtejp (not sure what you call it), things got pretty ok actually. I just need to get a good barb for the Eheim and then i am set.

    BTW, Eheim makes their own tubing, check it out. Good stuff.
  • Mt_GoatMt_Goat Head Cheezy Knob Pflugerville (north of Austin) Icrontian
    edited September 2003
    Wow, that's quite strange that anyone would use a plumbing/hose system measured by OD ratahter than ID in the first place as ID has been the standard for this kind of thing in many different industries for eons. It only stands to reason that it should be the standard as wall thickness can vary from manufacturer to manufacturer and by the properties of different materials is not the same under different temps and stresses.
  • TheLostSwedeTheLostSwede Trondheim, Norway Icrontian
    edited September 2003
    That´s also one of my points. You cant use any tubing you like in that swifty. Take the Tygon..it´s thick as hell. 20-21mm thick. No way you can shove it in that swifty.
  • Omega65Omega65 Philadelphia, Pa
    edited September 2003
    Mackanz said
    That´s also one of my points. You cant use any tubing you like in that swifty. Take the Tygon..it´s thick as hell. 20-21mm thick. No way you can shove it in that swifty.

    You're Wrong in this case Mackanz. The 1/2" & 3/8" hose adapters seal perfectly.

    I have the the MCW372 v2 w 3/8" and the MCW5000 w 1/2" adapters and no leaks whatsoever. I'm using both 3/8" and 1/2" ClearFlex 60 tubing w hoseclamps.

    The joints/adapters even rotate with no leaks.



    **Product link Fixed**
  • TheLostSwedeTheLostSwede Trondheim, Norway Icrontian
    edited September 2003
    I have to concur that i was wrong. Up until now i didnt know that they had adapters that fit. My bad.

    Where is the cheapest place to get Swifty stuff in the US?
    I have peeps there right now and i am ready to order some stuff.
  • Omega65Omega65 Philadelphia, Pa
    edited September 2003
    www.sidewindercomputers.com All Swiftech Products - Air & Water

    www.cooltechnica.com all Swiftech Water Cooling products

    www.aquastealth.com Swiftech Waterblocks & adapters
  • TheLostSwedeTheLostSwede Trondheim, Norway Icrontian
    edited September 2003
    Thanks!

    None is cheaper than Swifty themselves at the moment so i got to order from them.
  • Omega65Omega65 Philadelphia, Pa
    edited September 2003
    Sidewinder ships faster than Swiftech does. But sometimes Price is King. :)
  • muddocktormuddocktor
    edited September 2003
    I noticed this the other day, SVC Compucycle now is carrying a good assortment of water cooling goodies from Swiftech, Zalman, Danger Den, and Koolance. Might check them out, pricewise too.
  • TheLostSwedeTheLostSwede Trondheim, Norway Icrontian
    edited September 2003
    What the hell! I just ordered a set of 3 blocks. Never tried Swifty before so this should be fun. I got the 1/2 ID adapters as well.
  • Omega65Omega65 Philadelphia, Pa
    edited November 2003
    Mac - How did everything work out?
  • TheLostSwedeTheLostSwede Trondheim, Norway Icrontian
    edited November 2003
    I got them all here and i will install them today hopefully.
  • TheLostSwedeTheLostSwede Trondheim, Norway Icrontian
    edited November 2003
    Not 100% finished yet but things are in place at least.
  • fuxorfuxor i live in a giant bucket
    edited November 2003
    very nice setup mack, can't wait to see how it fares :)


    this is Damn sexy!! almost makes me want to go back to WC
    P4SYSTEM-350X264.jpg
  • TheLostSwedeTheLostSwede Trondheim, Norway Icrontian
    edited November 2003
    To tell the truth, now that all air is out of the loop, the temps isn't what i thought they would be. On Bios 19 temps are at 44c from 48 hours of folding at 2.2 gigs and 1.6 volts. I suspect bad contact or i need new TIM since my AS3 is 2 years old. The radiator is as cold as the room so it must be bad contact.
  • fuxorfuxor i live in a giant bucket
    edited November 2003
    hmm yeah, even though you're cooling three things in the same loop the temps should be lower. reseat the TIM? you can even try removing the peltier from the loop, with that radiator you don't really need it ;D
  • TheLostSwedeTheLostSwede Trondheim, Norway Icrontian
    edited November 2003
    fuxor had this to say
    hmm yeah, even though you're cooling three things in the same loop the temps should be lower. reseat the TIM? you can even try removing the peltier from the loop, with that radiator you don't really need it ;D

    I'm to chicken to use a peltier ;D
  • TheLostSwedeTheLostSwede Trondheim, Norway Icrontian
    edited November 2003
    I just ordered some Zerex super racing coolant and a tube of AS5. We'll see in a week again.

    Fuxor, i was also thinking that my radiator might be clogged from my old setup but the waterflow is as good as i want it to be. I'm itching to test another radiator as well even if i like this one. There's a company here that only does this stuff, they are called "Radiatorservice" and have all sizes i think. First i'm going to mod the fans to run at 7 volts instead of 12 and if the temps stay at the same or very close, then i know it's TIM/Bad contact that i need to take care of.
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