Help, PC won't even start when power button is pressed

edited June 2010 in Hardware
Help, My pc doesn't even boot up or start when I press the power buttion.

I opened up the pc cover and there I found 2 fans inside. The large fan is on the back of my pc case which I think throws indside air out. the 2nd fan is much smaller and is sitting on some metal or copper (sorry I am a newbe, don't know much).

I realized that when I press the power button on my pc, both fans try to spin but at slow speed then normal and they also kinda stops spinning for a half second and then starts to spin again. Looks like for some reasons they are having some difficulties in spining or not receiving much power.

After a minute or 2 both fan just stops spining at all. And when I press the power button again the whole thing starts again.

Meanwhile when all of this is going on there is a noise coming (sounds like "clik" clik"). I am not sure but I think its coming from a box which is like 4 inches long and wide. It is located at the top of the motherbord I think its the power box.

I cleaned both of the fans but still same issue exist. I tried to open the power box but there are 2 screws which are in the corner deep inside the motherbored and would require a tiny screw driver to open it which I don't have. (The power box also have an fan inside which I can see through the back of the pc, I noticed it doesn't spin at all, I don't know if it suppose to spin or not?)

More Info about the Computer:

2 weeks from today my computer started to restart automatically after shutdown. So I used to shutdown it mannualy by pressing the power button for 3 seconds.

for the last 2 weeks I also left my pc cover open because I was fixing some old hardrives which stopped working. Maybe dirt might have come inside, Since my pc cover was open for 2 weeks,.

The day before this happend. I fixed a old hardrive which had xp on it. In order to fix it, I have to formate it fully and install windows 98se on it since it won't install xp. After installing 98, I noticed that my pc restart even if I turn it off manually by pressing the power button.

So during the 98 setup I had to remove the pc's power cord from the outlet to turn it off 4 times. I finshed repairing the harddrive and installing windows 98 in like 4 hours and turn off my pc at 2 am in night.

Next day nothing happened when I push the power button. I also switch the harddrive with my regualr one (has xp installed on it) to make sure its not caused by harddrive but same problem is still there.

If it was a software issue, then I would have fixed it but its harware and I don't even know whats wrong and how to fix it :confused: , Please Help!

I also want to add that it a AMD Anthlon computer, 1.4 gigaherth. which I brought from micronpc.com

Comments

  • edcentricedcentric near Milwaukee, Wisconsin Icrontian
    edited October 2005
    My guess is that your power supply is dead. If the fan doesn't spin it may be that the fan died first and the PSU overheated.
    Now, if you are fortunate nothing else got damaged. You can remove the PSU (the mounting screws are on the back of the case, there should be four) and buy a new one at your friendly local computer parts store. Get one rated for at least as much power as the old one. We can give you a hand on this if you tell us what the lable on the side of the PSU says.
    I should caution you that there is a chance that when the PSU went it damaged other parts of your system.

    Don't worry about leaving the side off of your case. Two of my machines aren't even in cases.
  • edited October 2005
    Thanks for your reply

    I found the booklet which came with my pc and with its help I was able to took out the PSU. The one screw in the inside corner was tough to reach since very little space was available to move my hand, but I was able to take out the whole PSU in the end.

    I found some little dust inside and alot of dust on the fan. I cleaned everything but still same problem.

    One thing I forgot to add was that I have to keep my PSU power cord unplugged from the outlet becasue as soon as I plug it in, it start to power up (or try to power up) automatically, even without pressing the power button. After like 5 minutes the 2 moving fans which are now spining at slow speed finally stops spining but the PSU keeps making those clicking noise. So I have to keep it unplugged because it never turn itself off, and keep making that noise.

    Back to the PSU
    This what I copied from the PSU

    TGR MODEL NO: FA-250NI6
    SWITCHING POWER SUPPLY
    AC INPUT
    50-60Hz
    -115v,6.4A
    -230,3.5A

    also in the corner there is a sticker with a serial number, "S/N:6270095"

    My PSU also have a tiny switch which supply the power in 115v for using it in USA, and in 230v for using it in Europe.

    "Now, if you are fortunate nothing else got damaged. You can remove the PSU (the mounting screws are on the back of the case, there should be four) and buy a new one at your friendly local computer parts store. Get one rated for at least as much power as the old one. We can give you a hand on this if you tell us what the lable on the side of the PSU says."

    Which store can I buy the PSU from? Does circuit city have those, or ComUSA? Can i buy just any model or any company made PSU (like ATX) and it will fit in my pc? Please advice since I am totally new to the PSU thing :scratch: .
  • GrayFoxGrayFox /dev/urandom Member
    edited October 2005
    www.newegg.com

    Get something by pc power and cooling, antec, ocz or enermax. (Anything else and your risking your pc.)
  • LeonardoLeonardo Wake up and smell the glaciers Eagle River, Alaska Icrontian
    edited October 2005
    Here's a nice deal on a 350watt Antec PSU (power supply unit) at CompUSA that should do nicely for you. Just to make sure we are recommending a powerful enough unit, please tell us your computer's components:

    CPU: Athlon 1.4Ghz (correct?)
    sound card
    motherboard
    memory
    video card

    If your components are the same generation as your CPU, the 350watt Antec will fill the bill nicely. If you plan on big upgrades, like powerful CPUs and video cards, then 350 watts probably would not be enough.

    You don't have to spend big bucks on a premium PSU, like the top end PC Power & Cooling and OCZ units. They are worth their price, but for your system would probably overkill. Please don't buy any no-name or store brand PSUs. Not all, but many of them are junk. Any questions, just see us.
  • edited October 2005
    Thanks for advicing me some good PSU brand since I had no clue which ones are good one and worse one.

    Unfortunately I am hard on cash right now and can't afford a expensive PSU.
    I bought some expensive gear for my tv set (5.1 speaker set). I bought them on the same day on which my PSU died, I also bought a separate 2.1 speaker and subwoofer set for my pc from CC but was disappointed to find out that I won't be able to use em

    Would you guy recommand this one (PSU) for time beeing. Its from COOLMAX. I don't know if they are reliable, or are they going to screw up my pc (I did some research and found put that some PSU really destroy your whole pc). Here is the link. Its 400 wats.

    COOLMAX V-400 ATX v2.01 400W POWERR SUPLY
    http://www.coolmaxusa.com/productDetailsPower.asp?item=V-400&details=features&subcategory=80mm&category=single

    Its around $27.00 + tax

    I am more of a software guy so I really don't know much about my pc hardware (audio, video card, etc). I bought it from MICRONPC (also micronpc.com) from their advertise computer program on television. It used to be aired every weekened in the year 2000. Yeah, that mean I bought my pc in 2000. However it was very expensive and was designed with futuristic harware I guiss since I never had to update my harware for anything. Not even the video card.

    I don't play much games on my pc buy 99% of the games Iinstalled played fine and didn't require me to change my video card.

    My pc came with
    1 NEC DVD ROM Drive
    1 SONY CDRW Drive
    floopy drive
    1 40GB harddrive (went bad after 3 years)

    and the only thing I upgraded is the hard drive. Now I have 2 WD hard drives. One is 137 GB, and 2nd one is 80 GB.

    So basically most of the hardware in my pc is same as it was shpipped with. So would I really need a higher Wolt PSU?

    In the future the only Hardware I am planning to install is a new Dvdrw and take out my old sony cdrw drive.

    So I think 300 to 400 wats PSU should be fine for me, but please correct me guys if I am wrong. Since my pc only started to have some minor problem once I had double hd installed on my pc instead of the old single 40GB.
  • LeonardoLeonardo Wake up and smell the glaciers Eagle River, Alaska Icrontian
    edited October 2005
    I really don't know. Maybe someone else knows about that brand. It shoes a very weak 12V line, but then shoes a second 12v line - total two 12v "rails". If that really is the case with this PSU, it could be a good. Sorry, I just don't know. But I'm sure it's worth $27.
  • edited October 2005
    Here is some info about the PSU, Does anobdoy have any idea if its worth buying for. Does anybody know if COOLMAX is realiable. Any advise would be appreciated.

    COOLMAX V-400 ATX v2.01 400W Power Supply 100~132VAC or 200~264VAC FCC part 15 Class B, CIS PR 22 Class B

    Model

    Brand COOLMAX
    Model V-400

    SPEC

    Type ATX v2.01
    Maximum Power 400W
    Fans 1x 80mm
    PFC No
    Dual +12V Yes
    Over Voltage Protection YES
    Overload Protection YES
    Input Voltage 100~132VAC or 200~264VAC
    Input Frequency Range 47 - 63Hz
    Output +3.3V@30A, +5V@28A, +12V1@14A, +12V2@15A, -12V@1A, +5VSB@2.5A

    MTBF >100,000 Hours
    Approvals FCC part 15 Class B, CIS PR 22 Class B

    Features

    Serial ATA ready
    80mm fan design, long life, and fastest cooling time
    Cable-tube on main power cables for better cable routing and neatness
    Over voltage protection, short circuit protection on all output levels
    Universal Connector Fits Most of Branded Motherboard
  • GrayFoxGrayFox /dev/urandom Member
    edited October 2005
    Personaly I would wait a bit longer and save a few bucks.


    edit: If you want something thats cheep but still relieable this should work.
  • profdlpprofdlp The Holy City Of Westlake, Ohio
    edited October 2005
    GrayFox wrote:
    P...If you want something thats cheep but still relieable this should work.
    +3.3V@28A, +5V@32A, +12V@15A, -5V@0.3A, -12V@0.8A, +5VSB@2A

    The one he mentioned before had two 12V rails with 29A total.

    gandhrav, if money is tight I doubt you'll do much better than the one you linked to for $27. What GrayFox said about saving a few more bucks and getting a better unit is a good suggestion, except for the fact that your computer is totally dead right now. You may want to plan on upgrading the PSU sometime in the future.

    Just so you have a couple more choices:

    Rosewill RP500 500W

    THERMALTAKE TR2 W0070 430W
  • TexTex Dallas/Ft. Worth
    edited October 2005
    I have two running a dual xeon and a dual opteron.

    No they are not as good as PC Power & cooling but they are $20.

    And yep they may not really make their rated 650 watts but dam few people really need 650 watts.

    Tex
  • edited June 2010
    The same issue has happened to me in the past, and i found out the problem was that the on/off switch wasn't connected properly and was causing the computer to turn off. My suggestion would be to open the computer case again and locate where the switch attaches to the motherboard and remove it and plug it in again, this should resolve the issue.
  • edited June 2010
    Had the same problem. This might be a PSU issue as all say, but bare in mind that it might be a motherboard issue also. When i had this problem, i was powering on the computer and only the fans where spinning out for 2-3 seconds and then they would stop. Tried to change psu but nothing happened. Changed motherboard and it got fix.
    Most common problem is the psu thought so i hope you are lucky and didnt cause any further problems.
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