No improvement in temps with Thermalright AX-7!!!
That's right. My cpu temp is 44 c with the case closed up. 44 c!!! WTF??? I thought that with this beast of a heat sink, it's suppose to reduce the temps, not keep them the same as before. I was running a Dr.Thermal heatsink before I switched and the temps were 44 - 45c. What is going on? This is really starting to piss me off!!! Am I doing something wrong? Does it have something to do with the core voltage?
This is just unacceptable!!!
Computer specs:
1900+ Athlon XP
ECS K7S5A
This is just unacceptable!!!
Computer specs:
1900+ Athlon XP
ECS K7S5A
0
Comments
Unfortunately, there is no Fan for Intake in the front. There is a fan in the rear though. It does a good job.
The funny thing is that my step mom's computer, a Compaq Presario Athlon XP 2000+ only has an air intake but runs it at a very low speed. It runs just fine. Why does my cpu always have high temps?
It has an exhaust fan in the back and no intake fan in the front. Just like my comptuer. How come it runs stable? How come it doesn't overheat and lock-up? It is running the fans in what I would call a "quiet mode." In other words, both the exhaust fan and cpu fan are not running at full speed. And it still runs stable and cool. I can't understand why mine with a heat sink and fan that both cost more than the coolermaster have my cpu running hot. On top of that, my computer is loud. Would a barton 2500+ cpu with retail fan run cooler than my current setup?
Secondly, if you want to keep that case and still get the temps down, the only way that I could see would be to cut a fan hole in the side of the case for an intake fan for make-up air for the exhaust fan. I'm sure your vid card is contributing to the elevated internal case temps so putting the intake fan in the vicinity of that card would probably give you the most benefit.
But, I would sort out the lockups first. Your proc shouldn't lock-up below 55-60 degrees for any reason except software/driver conflicts.
Good Luck,
S!
What is your room temp when your processor temp is 44c, and how do you got to 44c...=After you logged out & reboot and saw it from BIOS ? If so it cooled doun a lot by that time.
Please don't be offended, but this is how I overcome my cooling problems with air....My PC is stable for a year with no problems and no re-formats...Down from 70c to in the 20's c.
>Of course you don't want to do all I did, but maybe a few things to think about.......................................$$$
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16 Fans:Never cleans & can listen to soft music.
Super Air cooling-Filtered/Silenced
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I did it this way:Build PC into a Desk-Removed the drawers. Fit the drawer fronts toghether to form a door, which I open to switch on, or insert CD's. To take the PC out is no hassle. The cables at the rear are attached to an upright pole, for easy removal and re-attachment.
A]Cold air enters the desk via Large filters, drawn in mainly by a 220V fan[300mm] right at the rear of the desk. The purpose of this fan is 1-To overcome the resistance the Filters pose[3x VW Beetle air filters] 2- To create a draft through the desk from front to back, thus the air always flow one way for sure.
B]All the stuff PC + Transformers + 12V fans PSU gets from these fresh air. Then I used other 80mm Coolermaster fans to direct these air to the spots I want. 1-2x fans in tandem beneath the CDROM/DVD drives blowing air in from the front of the case onto memory etc,2-1x fan from the lower front bottom sucking air and direct in to the Disk drive.3-1x fan at the bottom sucking air in and blow it to the Grafics card GPU's fan. 4-2x fans at the rear sucking warm air out + some holes at rear. I made use and modify plastic Gutter pieces to accomplish this.
>P4-2x Fans mounted 90 degrees to each other, take the IC cold air from the front of the case and force it on the CPU fan, supplying it with much more fresh air than normally.
C]The PSU is still in the case, but the sidecovers had holes drilled in on top, so that the PSU sucks it's own cool air in from the front, also via the filters. The PSU has 2x fans in tandem at the rear preventing other fans from lowering the sucking capability of the PSU fan, which happens if you add extractor fans, preventing it from running hot.
D]At the rear the extra PSU [140W of old PC] has its own cooling fan.
E]The PC case in surrounded by foam around the centre, to prevent it from ever sucking in 2nd hand warmer air from the rear.
This is quickly removed, so taking the case out of the desk is no problem.
F]With this experemental method I succeeded to always keep my P4 temp at 4-5c at IDLE or 8-9c at FULL LOAD above room temp. Therefore it is always important to mention room temp when comparing temps, so as to keep perspective.
G]The modem is cooled on top of the desk...Hole in desk to suck air over modem [Holes drilled in casing]. This is after the centre sealing of the case with foam, so pose no dust thread.
Result: Every little component in this PC is cooled. I believe, if you chuck out fans for silencing, and use watercooling, your processor may become the heatsink of your motherboard so to speak. I like watercooling, but will never do it without fans also.
My temps are now:
Measured separately with installed sensors and Digital temp gauges in a console. I can see temps when PC is switched off also. If theres action concerning the P4, the temp start rising within 2 sec.
1-Air in=15,6c...The room temp
2-P4=19,5c
3-GPU=19,0c
4-PSU=18,2c
5-Case air out=17,1c
6-Desk Air out [220V FAN]=17,7c
7-Modem=25,3c [Partially cooled]
8-Monitor=24,8c
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I got this setup for almost a year now, without any problems.
I would describe the airflow as gentle with air moving forward only!
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In the beginning, my PC went at a room temp of say 25c to 45 at idle and in the low 70c's when I play a certain game. That is when I decided to cool.
With the aircooling I managed to keep it 4-5c above room temp on idle and 8-9c above room temp on full load. Nothing I tried warm this thing up as the game.
So if you are above 4-5c/Idle or 8-9c/Full, you can still improve with fans.
Without proper measurements [Does not have to Laboratary quality], you are pretty much in the dark, although nothing prevent you from touching heatsinks...If they burn you, it's way too warm. In fact I think it's important to touch the heatsinks, to give you perspective of the heat they go through.
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If you suspect cooling as causing problems, open one side, and aim a 220V fan at it...This is the coolest your PC ever will be without using airconditioning.
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Answer this question ?
You see, after implementing mods to cool, you have to answer this important question to yourself: [Use your imagination & sensors to back it up]
????=How does one partical of air travels through your system.....
...1-Will it go in at the front/bottom......then be used inside....blown around....used again....blown around...used again inside, and ....E V E N T U A L L Y....it's blown out ! This is very wrong, even if you have a lot of fans fitted.
...2-Will one partical of air only move one way only=In at front/bottom....in case used by processor fan once, and then immediately sucked out....This is good!
My system was constructed to overcome this problem for a start.
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S!
Tex
Man this thread is ancient, like the AX-7.