a2jfreak had this to say Yeah, I know how you feel.
Soaking money into something that is obsolete in 3 months is a much better feeling than stepping into my truck that, while depreciating in value daily, is not obsolete in 3 years, much less 3 months.
I updated my sig earlier today to reflect my upcoming upgrade, but my main rig is (at the moment) an Abit KT7A-RAID w/ a T-Bird (NOT T-Bred) 1200 and PC133 ram. It is nearly three years old and is not being replaced due to a obsolescence.
Bet you that the whole works cost less new than your monthly car (truck) payment, not to mention the insurance.
Besides, I spend more time at the keyboard than I do behind the wheel!
(You do make a good point, though. Any new vehicle will still be worth something five years later... :rolleyes2 )
0
Geeky1University of the Pacific (Stockton, CA, USA)
edited November 2003
*sigh*
Ok, let's back up a few steps.
You said:
Well, if the fsb only goes to 218, wouldnt it be worth it to buy a 2600+ at 333 that I can overclock farther to maybe 390
You were comparing apples and oranges. A 2600+ has a 166MHz FSB, not a 333MHz fsb. 333MHz is the effective speed of the bus, not the actual speed.
However, since you are obviously measuring the effective FSB, not the actual FSB, I simply translated it for you.
If you use the ACTUAL bus speed, the 2600 has a 166MHz FSB. My 1800 has a 218MHz FSB.
If you insist on comparing the effective speed, the 2600 has a 333MHz FSB, and my 1800 has a 436MHz FSB.
DDR stands for Double Data Rate. It is not just a memory type. It also refers to the way the northbridge, CPU, and RAM communicate.
Aaaaaaahhhhh. So that means 3000+/3200+ has an actual bus of 200. So wouldnt that mean that your modded 1700+ is running at a higher clock and bus speed than a stock 3000+?
0
Geeky1University of the Pacific (Stockton, CA, USA)
edited November 2003
YES. My UNMODIFIED 1700/1800 both run at higher clockspeeds than ANY factory AMD cpu.
I have not modified my CPUs. Thrax and Mackanz have, which is why they've achieved 230MHz and 250MHz bus speeds, respectively. The nForce2 chipset has a "bug" that allows 133MHz FSB cpus to reach higher bus speeds after being modified to default to 166MHz, and vice/versa for the 166MHz default chips.
218-220MHz is just about the highest you can get out of an unmodified Athlon XP. Modified as described above, they will do 250MHz (which is the maximum available speed in the NF7's BIOS), possibly more if the boards could.
My NF7-S will let me select up to 300MHz for the FSB (DDR600). Did that get pulled down in one of the newer BIOS revisions?
Also, fudgam said modded CPU, Geeky said unmodded. Just to be redundant. Geeky did notmod his CPU. His high overclock (2.51GHz) was achieved through using cold air and a fan that will wake the dead. Using cooling methods that are able to be lived with still netted him overclocks higher than any stock AthlonXP.
// Edit: My Athlon XP (1700+ DLT3C 0310XPMW) runs @ 2.3GHz using a 200MHz (DDR400) FSB. Once I finally convince myself to purchase a better fan I hope to reach 2.4GHz or higher.
Notice, fudgam, my Athlon is a 133MHz (DDR266) FSB unit, but it is running @ 200MHz (DDR400) and the default clock speed of my CPU is 1.466GHz but I'm running @ 2.3GHz.
I changed nothing physically on my CPU to achieve this. The only thing I've done "special" was to purchase a very good heatsink (SLK-900U) and up my vCore (using my NF7-S's BIOS).
0
Geeky1University of the Pacific (Stockton, CA, USA)
edited November 2003
For a fan that'll wake the dead, I haven't had any complaints from them yet...
A2J is correct, tho. The highest stable OC I've gotten out of it with a fan that's quiet enough to live with is 2.45GHz.
a2jfreak had this to say
His high overclock (2.51GHz) was achieved through using cold air and a fan that will wake the dead. Using cooling methods that are able to be lived with still netted him overclocks higher than any stock AthlonXP.
i love my water cooling....
i remember using Delta 60mm screamers on the t-birds, and i dont know how i ever stood the noise from those things.
Geeky, when I say "modded", you said you bought a processor from that website you suggested earlier. I assumed that the processor that the link led to was a modded processor. If it isnt, what is so great about it? And why can't I buy it somewhere else?
0
Geeky1University of the Pacific (Stockton, CA, USA)
edited November 2003
I didn't buy one from them... I just know they stock them. I bought mine from Fry's because I bought one of their combo deals for a friend, and it came with this CPU. So, I went back and bought myself one. Then I posted it here, and mmonnin got me to buy him two of them. All 4 were JIUHB DLT3Cs.
As for what's so great about them:
JIUHB DLT3C is part of the CPU's stepping code. The stepping tells you about the CPU- the model, clockspeed, date of manufacture, location of manufacture, etc.
The DLT3C is a core voltage code; DLT3C is the code for 1.5v, which is the lowest core voltage for a desktop athlon CPU. Lower core voltage = more headroom for overvolting which = better overclockability.
The JIUHB is another part of the stepping code (what it indicates I don't know off hand), and chips with the JIUHB stepping are basically guaranteed to exceed 2GHz, depending on the core voltage. JIUHB DUT3Cs (1.6v) are generally good for 2.2-2.3GHz; JIUHB DLT3Cs (1.5v) are generally good for 2.3GHz+
Certain steppings overclock better than others. Unless you can take a look at the actual chip you're buying before you buy it and verify the stepping, if you want to overclock, it's best to go to somewhere that guarantees a certain stepping that's known to be good for overclocking.
Admittedly, all 4 of the retail-boxed 1800s I bought at Fry's were JIUHB DLT3Cs, but if you order one from say, Newegg, and you get it, and it's an AROIA (palomino) CPU that's good for 1.9GHz tops, do you really want to deal with returning it, and hoping to get a better one next time?
Which is why I said: if you can't look at the actual chip you'll be buying, buy one from a place that guarantees the stepping you want.
Those 1800's that overclock wicked high, they still got T-Breds in them. Isn't a barton at a little lower clock better than a T-Bred at a little higher clock?
Comments
Sometimes, I wonder why I bother...
You didn't read my entire post, did you (post # 16 in this thread)?
I said
My 1800+ JIUHB DLT3C does 2,507MHz. 218MHz FSB (436 DDR) x 11.5.
My 1700+ JIUHB DUT3C does ~2.35GHz.
One of my 2500s does 2.37GHz.
The other 2500 does 2.3GHz.
Bet you that the whole works cost less new than your monthly car (truck) payment, not to mention the insurance.
Besides, I spend more time at the keyboard than I do behind the wheel!
(You do make a good point, though. Any new vehicle will still be worth something five years later... :rolleyes2 )
Ok, let's back up a few steps.
You said:
You were comparing apples and oranges. A 2600+ has a 166MHz FSB, not a 333MHz fsb. 333MHz is the effective speed of the bus, not the actual speed.
However, since you are obviously measuring the effective FSB, not the actual FSB, I simply translated it for you.
If you use the ACTUAL bus speed, the 2600 has a 166MHz FSB. My 1800 has a 218MHz FSB.
If you insist on comparing the effective speed, the 2600 has a 333MHz FSB, and my 1800 has a 436MHz FSB.
DDR stands for Double Data Rate. It is not just a memory type. It also refers to the way the northbridge, CPU, and RAM communicate.
I have not modified my CPUs. Thrax and Mackanz have, which is why they've achieved 230MHz and 250MHz bus speeds, respectively. The nForce2 chipset has a "bug" that allows 133MHz FSB cpus to reach higher bus speeds after being modified to default to 166MHz, and vice/versa for the 166MHz default chips.
218-220MHz is just about the highest you can get out of an unmodified Athlon XP. Modified as described above, they will do 250MHz (which is the maximum available speed in the NF7's BIOS), possibly more if the boards could.
Also, fudgam said modded CPU, Geeky said unmodded. Just to be redundant. Geeky did not mod his CPU. His high overclock (2.51GHz) was achieved through using cold air and a fan that will wake the dead. Using cooling methods that are able to be lived with still netted him overclocks higher than any stock AthlonXP.
// Edit: My Athlon XP (1700+ DLT3C 0310XPMW) runs @ 2.3GHz using a 200MHz (DDR400) FSB. Once I finally convince myself to purchase a better fan I hope to reach 2.4GHz or higher.
Notice, fudgam, my Athlon is a 133MHz (DDR266) FSB unit, but it is running @ 200MHz (DDR400) and the default clock speed of my CPU is 1.466GHz but I'm running @ 2.3GHz.
I changed nothing physically on my CPU to achieve this. The only thing I've done "special" was to purchase a very good heatsink (SLK-900U) and up my vCore (using my NF7-S's BIOS).
A2J is correct, tho. The highest stable OC I've gotten out of it with a fan that's quiet enough to live with is 2.45GHz.
If this doesn't make the "Short-Media Bytes" section it's a shame.
prof goes off to comfort his poor mutts, who think he has gone totally nuts...
i love my water cooling....
i remember using Delta 60mm screamers on the t-birds, and i dont know how i ever stood the noise from those things.
As for what's so great about them:
JIUHB DLT3C is part of the CPU's stepping code. The stepping tells you about the CPU- the model, clockspeed, date of manufacture, location of manufacture, etc.
The DLT3C is a core voltage code; DLT3C is the code for 1.5v, which is the lowest core voltage for a desktop athlon CPU. Lower core voltage = more headroom for overvolting which = better overclockability.
The JIUHB is another part of the stepping code (what it indicates I don't know off hand), and chips with the JIUHB stepping are basically guaranteed to exceed 2GHz, depending on the core voltage. JIUHB DUT3Cs (1.6v) are generally good for 2.2-2.3GHz; JIUHB DLT3Cs (1.5v) are generally good for 2.3GHz+
Certain steppings overclock better than others. Unless you can take a look at the actual chip you're buying before you buy it and verify the stepping, if you want to overclock, it's best to go to somewhere that guarantees a certain stepping that's known to be good for overclocking.
Admittedly, all 4 of the retail-boxed 1800s I bought at Fry's were JIUHB DLT3Cs, but if you order one from say, Newegg, and you get it, and it's an AROIA (palomino) CPU that's good for 1.9GHz tops, do you really want to deal with returning it, and hoping to get a better one next time?
Which is why I said: if you can't look at the actual chip you'll be buying, buy one from a place that guarantees the stepping you want.
http://www.excaliberpc.com/product_info.php?cPath=178_186&products_id=1094
L- 1.5v
T- 90C max die temp
3- 256kb L2
C- 266MHz FSB
I have a link on my computer that explains what they all mean but I am home for the weekend. overclockers.com maybe?