TRUE and C2D Lapping

MAGIC

This is a project Ive been wanting to get around to. Since the the recent wave of thunderstorms passed over Michigan left our household without power for three days i figured i had some time to do it.
started with the heat sink. Ive never done this before so i figured it would be a safer start.

after some work with a 320 grit you can see that the base clearly bows out in the middle.

After a 800 grit you can begin to see that its getting there. Still a little uneaven around the edges.

The final results after brass polish.

The process i used was 320, 400, 800, 1000, 2000 sand papers then a 3m rubbing compound and finished with brass polish.

Started working on the cpu with the same process.


Ill finish that up after work tomorrow and check the temps.

Thrax

You'll get a big improvement. Well worth the effort.

Bubbleman

Just wondering since the true is so massive, how did you hold it? by the base of it?

And with the heat sink did you do circles to sand or up and down motion then turn it 90 degrees.

Also how much time total spent with the heat sink? and cpu

Thanks Looks really good man

MAGIC

Bubbleman wrote:

Just wondering since the true is so massive, how did you hold it? by the base of it?

And with the heat sink did you do circles to sand or up and down motion then turn it 90 degrees.

Also how much time total spent with the heat sink? and cpu

Thanks Looks really good man

Yes it was a very cumbersome thing to deal with. I held it by the base and did 90* turns every few seconds. As far as time, i spent about three and a half hours on the heatsink. I havent finished the cpu yet but its taking much less time because its way easier to work with.

lemonlime

Looks great!

Took me about three hours to do the SI-128 SE as well. It did make a big difference though

Bubbleman

' wrote:

[v][AGIC']Yes it was a very cumbersome thing to deal with. I held it by the base and did 90* turns every few seconds. As far as time, i spent about three and a half hours on the heatsink. I havent finished the cpu yet but its taking much less time because its way easier to work with.

What fans are you using on the TRUE?

Also I am not sure if you can have 2 fans on a true but you have to add some brackets or something like that.

muddocktor

If you used rubbing compound/brass polish on the heatsink, you will need to get the carrier out of the base for your heatsink to transfer heat most effectively. The carrier will penetrate the microfissures in the base and keep the TIM from getting the best contact. Something like Xylene paint thinnner should be able to remove the residual polish.

Leonardo

Acetone will also strip out any chemicals in the crevices.

MAGIC

muddocktor wrote:

If you used rubbing compound/brass polish on the heatsink, you will need to get the carrier out of the base for your heatsink to transfer heat most effectively. The carrier will penetrate the microfissures in the base and keep the TIM from getting the best contact. Something like Xylene paint thinnner should be able to remove the residual polish.

will alcohol get it off, or mineral spirits?

BuddyJ

Acetone FTW

Bubbleman

Now buffing to a mirror finish does absolutely nothing right? I mean I know your aiming for flat surface and maybe the copper in case of the TRUE but whats the point in getting the mirror finish if it might harm you?

With all the chemicals from the polish going into the crevices, I mean just seems more harm than anything.

CB

One shouldn't really use 'polish' to polish the surface.

Thrax

You use brass polish and buff it with a 100% lint-free cotton cloth. Then you acetone the base.

muddocktor

The mineral spirits, followed by a good douching with 91% isopropyl alcohol should clean the junk off, ][v][AGIC. The mineral spirits should wash out the oil based stuff in the compound out of the microfissures and the alcohol should get any other residual left from the mineral spirits.

DanG

So what was the final temp drop?

Leonardo

Also I am not sure if you can have 2 fans on a true but you have to add some brackets or something like that.

You can also use something simple, like fine gauge wire.

MAGIC

well at 1.38v im at 22 idle. This is on my ****ty infinity board that doesnt overclock well at all. Ill post some final numbers when whatever p35 board i decide on comes in.

Bubbleman

Any final lapped pictures, assuming you lapped a bit more?

Leonardo

Magic, I wouldn't put too much blame on your motherboard. The 975X chipset is really a Netburst platform tweaked to accept Core 2. Intel designed that chipset to be the height of performance for the last P4 CPUs and for the first production runs of Core 2 - to tide over the market until real Core 2 platforms would become available. It's really just the end of the line for the 945-965 chipset family.