DELL P1110 monitor too bright
a friend of mine just gave me his old DELL P1110 21 inch flat screen monitor
when trying to use it though, i see that it has a MAJOR problem with being WAYYYY to bright :-(
i've tried adjusting the brightness & contrast settings to no avail
even with the brightness set all the way down to 0, it's terrible
the problem has nothing to do with windoze or the driver being used in windoze, the problem is immediately apparent even without plugging the monitor into my PC, you can see it in the bootup phase where the memory countsup on what is *normall* a black background
on this monitor though, what SHOULD be a black background is all washed out gray, like if you turn the brightness control up on your TV all the way - which only carries over & skews everything once you get into windows (blacks are not true blacks, light backgrounds blaze into my eyeballs like staring ito the sun, etc)
i am researching this now on the 'net, trying to find out if there is any way to adjust this, and i am learning that possibly:
(1) all flat screen displays (like this one) are "too bright" (?)
(2) some monitors have "hidden" controls to turn this down via screws inside the cases that you have to know where they are what to adjust (haven't found the info i need for this one yet)
(3) some workarounds involve replacing resistors in the unit (??)
does anyone have any clues they can give me how to fix this problem on the dell p1110??? it's a really nice unit except for the overly bright display
any responses greatly appreciated, THANKS!!!!!!
***********EDIT/UPDATE 1/28/06*************
PLEASE NOTE FOR FOLKS NEW TO THIS THREAD:
This thread gets quite long & you need to read the WHOLE THING to see the various solutions and twists and turns. And there ARE SOLUTIONS! Just be sure to read it all b4 you decide how to handle your own monitor problem.
User P991DELLSONY has graciously posted one solution which many have found to be helpful, but it comes up several pages deep into this thread. You can read the discussion of his solution further on, or also, thanks to P991, try this webpage to cut to the chase:
http://www.geocities.com/gregua/windas/
THANKS TO ALL FOR THEIR HELP & INPUT WITH THIS PROBLEM, WHICH AS IT TURNS OUT, AFFLICTS MANY MANY OF THESE MONITORS.
************************************************
when trying to use it though, i see that it has a MAJOR problem with being WAYYYY to bright :-(
i've tried adjusting the brightness & contrast settings to no avail
even with the brightness set all the way down to 0, it's terrible
the problem has nothing to do with windoze or the driver being used in windoze, the problem is immediately apparent even without plugging the monitor into my PC, you can see it in the bootup phase where the memory countsup on what is *normall* a black background
on this monitor though, what SHOULD be a black background is all washed out gray, like if you turn the brightness control up on your TV all the way - which only carries over & skews everything once you get into windows (blacks are not true blacks, light backgrounds blaze into my eyeballs like staring ito the sun, etc)
i am researching this now on the 'net, trying to find out if there is any way to adjust this, and i am learning that possibly:
(1) all flat screen displays (like this one) are "too bright" (?)
(2) some monitors have "hidden" controls to turn this down via screws inside the cases that you have to know where they are what to adjust (haven't found the info i need for this one yet)
(3) some workarounds involve replacing resistors in the unit (??)
does anyone have any clues they can give me how to fix this problem on the dell p1110??? it's a really nice unit except for the overly bright display
any responses greatly appreciated, THANKS!!!!!!
***********EDIT/UPDATE 1/28/06*************
PLEASE NOTE FOR FOLKS NEW TO THIS THREAD:
This thread gets quite long & you need to read the WHOLE THING to see the various solutions and twists and turns. And there ARE SOLUTIONS! Just be sure to read it all b4 you decide how to handle your own monitor problem.
User P991DELLSONY has graciously posted one solution which many have found to be helpful, but it comes up several pages deep into this thread. You can read the discussion of his solution further on, or also, thanks to P991, try this webpage to cut to the chase:
http://www.geocities.com/gregua/windas/
THANKS TO ALL FOR THEIR HELP & INPUT WITH THIS PROBLEM, WHICH AS IT TURNS OUT, AFFLICTS MANY MANY OF THESE MONITORS.
************************************************
0
Comments
thanks for the response!
what you describe (having an "overbright faded one") is EXACTLY what this thing looks like
i will ask my friend if he's had it less than 3 years - maybe he can return it for me but i doubt he will want to be bothered
how'd you like to exchange this one in your office for a good one for me? (just kidding)
thanks again for the info though
Haha.. I work for the State of Louisiana.. I would be taken a trip down river
I hope you are able to send it back becouse the ones that are true 6500k are so rich in color.
i posted about this on several forums including this one & i now have the exact info needed to correct this
*******
http://www.hutzelman.com/web/pages/hardware/Mods/SonyCRT/
Sony Monitor Brightness Fix
Many Sony Trinitron-based monitors manufactured around the 1999-2000 time frame develop a brightness problem over time which substantially degrades the picture quality. Some models which exhibit this problem are the Sony G500 and the Dell P1110. The following "fix" has helped me and many others get the brightness and color back to near factory specs. The main signs that you have this problem will be the absence of a good black level - even with the brightness set to 0, the monitor will show blacks as bright greys. [Disclaimer: this "fix" is not really the correct way to fix the problem, but the results should be quite satisfactory.]
********
rest of the link goes on to explain what to do - it involves opening the CRT case, disabling an existing resistor, and soldering in a new/different one
not exactly an easy task for people not familiar with electronics/soldering, and also poses certain risks, but i am going to try it
not as easy as swapping it out with a co-worker but worth a shot!
wish me luck & thanks again
P.S.: "Colour", Thrax? What the hell are they teaching you over there at EMU?
Colour : Expert
50, 50, 50, 85, 87, 95
Brightness: 35
Contrast : 85
also, i've read some other things about this monitor at these links that may be of interest to others here:
http://www.adrian-smith31.clara.co.uk/pctips/monitor_tips.htm
http://www.anatekcorp.com/faq/archmntr.htm
something called a "software sony DAS alignment" may correct the problem as well
i haven't been able to find out yet exactly what a sony DAS alignment is though, how to get the software, how it works, or who can do it for you (? sony technician?)
As for opening it up and playing with the resistance of the G2 regulator, I kinda want to, and a kinda don't. Not that I dont think of myself as proficent enough to work inside of it (it used to be my job) but, I just dont want to risk it as it's totally usable for now at a really low brightness setting of 17.
11K Colour Temp. 50-50-50-85-80-95
Catalyst Control Centre Color Correction:
-> Gamma: 1.0
-> Brightness: 0
-> Contrast: 100
-> Straight Color Correction Curve
Sony's DAS: Digital Alignment Software, which can calibrate the internal programming of any Sony-based monitor.
If you manage to get a hold of the DAS, you'll need the following Sony parts to get it to work (all are Sony Part Numbers):
Adapter Cable: 1-690-391-21
Interface Unit: A-1500-819-A
Connector Attachment: 3-702-691-01
Really? Where do these cables/connectors connect to?
regarding the DAS software (& thanks for posting the extra info!), i spoke (email) to one of the guys who made mention of the DAS software on his webpage, and asked him what it was, how to get it etc
and he said this:
"The Sony DAS software is only available to Sony authorised service centres
and is not available anywhere on the Internet as far as I know. Even if you
did get the software, there is a hardware interface between the PC and the
monitor that converts the serial port data into the I2C bus data the monitor
uses. The software uses 'plugins' - one for each monitor model."
so the parts that you guys listed above must be a serial cable to hookup to the PC's 9 pin serial interface, which goes into a converter unit of some kind and also a seperate "VGA" type connector piece to plug into the monitor (educated guess)
any sony techs out there that can confirm all this for us?
and better yet, any of ya make free house-calls!?!?!?
ALSO, the same guy told me this in email as far as replacing the resistor:
"The easiest thing to do is make sure there are no component faults (faulty
surface mount capacitors are a real problem in this chassis) then if needed,
substitute R459 for a lower value. Check the CRT voltages to make sure the
G2 is actually too high before doing this though - it should be around 512V."
so, if i understand him correctly, the resistor "fix" won't help if there is a problem with faulty "surface mount capacitors" which is a COMMON problem!!!
also, the "G2" voltage should be checked to make sure it is around 512V...sigh....i'm not an electronic technician, don't know what/where the "G2" is, or how to safely check that.....
i may still try the resistor "fix" anyway, provided i can find any that meet the proper "specs" (4.7Mohms to 6.8 Mohms, capable of handling at least 1kV and 0.5Watts)
Expert Setup, at RGB Settings
90
92
63
94
80
100
Brightness 52, Contrast 95
Note: Each monitor will require different settings due to the difference in the resistance of the added component. No two resistors are perfectly alike, but that's a starting point. If anyone else has a question on how to do it, let me know.
You had better know what in the hell you are doing when you open a monitor up.
They don't call the high voltage section high for nothing.
A misplaced tool or finger and you will be blown into next week.
OK, I am slow to post.
I should have posted that!!! I've been hit with the 20Kv On the back of a monitor before... It's not nice. I was thrown about 5 feet into a wall, and the burns took forever to heal
Sweet! Where'd you get the resistors from, and how much did they cost you? I might try replacing the resistor this weekend if I have the time.
OR
Get one here:
http://www.newark.com/NewarkWebCommerce/newark/en_US/endecaSearch/partDetail.jsp?SKU=25H9823&N=0
That one is like 5 bucks.
Take Care,
Adam :usflag:
- Turn off monitor.
- Hold down the center front panel "set" button. While holding this button down, swich on monitor. Continue holding the "set" button for 4 seconds, release and immediately push again.
- A password prompt will appear on screen. Enter "7711" using the monitor front panel set and arrow keys.
- A service mode screen will come up.
- Maneuver to the "Gray Scale" menu.
- Set "Brightness" to 50% and "Contrast" to 90% (these are the same controls as the normal menu).
- Adjust the "G2" setting down to the optimal brightness. This setting controls the feedback loop for all three R-G-B electron guns in the CRT. I set mine to a value of 125, but your optimal value may differ.
- Turn monitor off and on to exit service mode.
- Fine tune brightness and contrast with normal controls.
-That's it!
- WARNING: Don't reset the memory to default or play with any other controls without recording values. You could easily render the monitor useless or make the display unreadable which would make it impossible to change the parameters back to a readable state.
When you say you need to wait four seconds after powering the monitor on, do you mean 4 seconds from when the green light turns on, or 4 seconds after the tube turns on?
This may not work for a P1100, but it did for my P1110 (the subject of this thread).
Good luck!
I have read you must be driving it at 79.976K/75Hz for this to work properly.
1- Go To The Gamma Setting Of Video Card And Make It Less Bright.
2- If Your Video Card Is O.k And Problem Is In The Monitor , Open It Find It's Flyback Transformer Which Can Be Spotted By The Lead Emerging From It To The Top Of Crt. There R Three Variables Two Control Focus And One Brightness, Adjust By It.
i spent about 3-4 weeks trying to find these damn things & finally got some last week at this link:
http://www.alliedelec.com/
4.7MOHM 1/2 watt
6.2M OHM 1/2 watt
they were only something like 2 cents a piece, but i had to buy them in packs of 200!!!!
i have not tried them yet (the advice i read said to try the 4.7M first, then if that doesn't work to try the 6.2M)
wish me luck...
As some of you already know, prior to the mod my monitor had a rather strange problem where (weather or not the monitor was in use, or stand by) a big, blue spark would jump across the inside of the tube, along witha loud "bang" coming from it. When it started, it only did it every couple of days, then every day, and by the time I finally got serious about fixing it, it was doing it every 15 minutes!
Once I opened up the monitor, I found something strange; Merkortech had apparently already done it! Where the 10MOHM resister was, a 3.2 and 6.2 were in it's place, covered in silicon glue. I removed the 3.2, and re-added the 6.2.
It's been over a week since I modded it, and I haven't seen the monitor arc since!
MUCH darker than it used to
black actually looks black instead of light gray
it was very EZ to do also
i'm using the monitor now where b4 i was unable to because it was so effin' bright
- jon -