If geeks love it, we're on it
If geeks love it, we're on it
The tranformer has 2 varistors that tap into it. (on trinitron, on shadomask there is usually one)They provide the high voltagedirectly to the focus grids. There are vertical and horizontal grids.The flyback transformer has nothing to do with focus, it generates the 30kv anode voltage. You will either kill yourself or wreck the monitor. Leave it alone.
First off, this thread has nothing to do with Dell monitors. The topic was made without the understanding that the brightness problem happnens on nearly all sony CRTs. The resistor fix just happened to be explained only for a P1110.Hi everyone
Many thanks to all that have added to this thread. Excellent information here.
I have read over all 34 pages of it a few pages at a time.
I didn't find what I was looking for, so I have regisitered and would like to ask my questions.
I have a Micronpc.com 900Mx. It has a 19" Sony Trinitron CRT. It was manufactured around the end of 2000. I know this thread is mainly for the Dell monitors, but I hope someone will help me all the same.
I have the same problem as most everyone with the overly bright picture, green tint and the retrace lines showing.
I took the cover off, but mine isn't exactly like the Dell in the pictures in the resistor change guide. I don't know where the correct resistor is located. I have been unable to find a schematic for my monitor. I guess it is probably around the same place on the rear of the tube, but the board is different and so are the numbers. I can't see it very well either, since the metal plate is soldered on in several places rather than a screw holding it on. Mine is very similar to the pictures in Paul's Post 462
Although, after removing the case I noticed a few adjusters on the side of the tube. There are both screw driver type and thumb knobs.
Screw driver types are as follows:
TLV
YCH
YBH
and one that is written like this:
H.
TRP
The thumb knobs were covered with tape, and when I pealed the pieces back I found:
APH
CBH
XBV
XCV
Do any of these have anything to do with the brightness?
Can anyone explain the function of these screws and knobs?
I saw where Patrik had fixed his with an adjuster, but he didn't say which one. Post 467
My monitor doesn't have the full metal shielding around the tube, so everything is exposed. There is a gray plastic cover over the thing mounted on the side of the tube where the adjusters are at, though it shouldn't need to be removed to make any adjustments to the screws and/or knobs.
Any tips on this are very welcome and apperciated.
, which means windas will be of little use.Hi everyone. Wow what a night of different emotions and lots of reading.
I picked up my Dell P1110 (bought from Ebay - I'm from Australia) tonight and was very disheartened to bring it home, turn it on and immediately notice an unacceptable brightness level. After 2-3 hours I've read through this forum and gather it boils down to two main options:
or
- Replace the R459 Resistor with a 6.2MOhm resistor (hardware option - not safe)
- Buy/build a cable, download specific software (more money, and often some hardware work involved to get the pinout correct - but safer).
All this seems a little overwhelming given I've just purchased this monitor (obviously hoping to 'plug & play'). My question is since there literally seem to be hundreds of people on this thread and no doubt thousands more who will find it on google... is anyone willing to produce a CD with the appropriate software drivers/etc on it, a simple '10-step' instruction guide, and a pre-built cable, and share it around (expenses would be covered). I figure most of us only need to fix this once... what is everyone doing with their cable once they're done? Surely we can pass it on to another Sony tube victim/recoup some of their costs?
If anyone out there (particularly from Australia) has fixed their monitor using the software & cable fix... I'd be happy to work out something mutally beneficial.
PS: I didnt notice it in this thread but I assume there are no software utilities to artificially lower the gamma output from windows/dos that lead to an acceptable result?
HiIf you are lucky, your monitor may not have an MCU controlling the G2, and instead will have a screw knob varistor. (I've found they are on the board with the CRT socket (board on the back of the tube)).
If your monitor has knobs like this, it may not have many MCU controlled adjustments
However, the whole brightness problem is currently thought to be caused by faulty MCU controll of the G2, the other competing theory was that the IC controllintg the G2 became faulty. The theory that the resistor used in the G2 circuit had become faulty was found to be false, as the resistor has always been found to be at the labeled resistance.
So if you don't have MCU controlled G2, yet have the birghtness problem, this would rule out the MCU theory. If y,ou have color return though, you definitely have MCU controll of something.
I'd like to hear wether or not you have an MCU in there, and if you do have the G2 varistor, as this will narrow everyone down to finding the real cause of this widespread problem.
Thanks.
Hi
I didn't see any varistor on the board with the crt socket. There are some on the mainboard and the ones on the side of the tube. Also the 3 I mentioned here.
I don't have Color Return...BUT another menu I do have:
Property > Statis, Recall, Language.
Under Property > Recall, I have:
Picture, Converge, Purity.
Color menu offers 9300*K, 6500*K, 5000*K or User. But I guess the Recall > Picture is the same as the Color Return you are speaking of?
If so that means I have an MCU, correct?
HiYes, it has an MCU. Actually, I think all with an OSD have an MCU. I had a 17sf2 which had an OSD, but the MCU didn't even controll the G2.
Color return does some calibration of your monitor, you will see flahsing color on the screen when you run it.
Is this what Recall > picture does?
Maybe your MCU just doesn't adjust convergence.
So you can't find any 4 pin header? hmm. Sometimes it looks a little bit different, as it did on some of those FW900s mentioned earlier.
I wonder if the electronics were made by Sony, or if that is even necessary for using DAS. Maybe some of the ICs will be the same? hmm.
I don't know, I'm wondering if that third knob on your flyback is B+. Ofcourse, chaning that will change other things more than it will change brightness. May not be good for some stuff either.
I suggest you do the resitor mod., easiest way to do this is to trace back from the G2 pin on the CRT socket, and find a suitable spot. More resistance means brighter picture. As far as I can tell G2 is held at a static voltage by some resistance and the voltage source is the from some tap on the flyback. It may go through a multi function IC before the trace reaches the voltage source. I'm not familiar with the hardware beyond the tube, ask some of the resistor mod guys. I'm sure some one here has done it on something other than a P1110.
That you don't have any other way to controll the G2 (as via varistor), this almost narrows this down to MCU involvment.
If the trace to the G2 does pass through a multifunction IC, which itself has traces to the MCU, then I'd suspect MCU involment.
However, if the G2 never touches any ICs on it's way to the voltage source, then your problem is definetly not color return/MCU related, and it may be the same problem. I hope not though, as it would indicate the source of the problem is from something more serious.
You can correct this "overly bright" problem in a more mechanical way. First set brightness to 50% with the normal front controls and then adjust the "screen" adjustment on the flyback transformer with a plastic screwdriver (very important that a plastic screwdriver is used) until black gets black.
Take it carefully in the beginning so you see which way makes it brighter/darker and when you see which way to turn, don't turn it any more in the way which makes it brighter as if you make it too bright, a safety circuit will turn of the monitor.
When removing the monitors plastic case, don't use a regular screwdriver push clips, instead use something that has an uniform thickness (a screwdriver gets thicker as you get further from the end of it), or else your monitors case will look like ****e afterwards. I use the flat pin on a KRONE tool for this.
When the case is removed, put some support under the front part of the monitor, just before the plastic front begins (it is forward-heavy and doesn't need support at the back).
The flyback adjustments should now be accessible through holes in the metal shielding.
Btw, the monitor needs to be running when you are doing this and it should have been running with a rather quite bright picture showing for atleast 10mins so it is heated up properly. Don't poke any fingers through any holes in the shielding, that can be lethal!
/Patrik
Without it I'd have sold the monitor on unfixed lol).
HiHi guys.
I recently rescued a Dell P1110 monitor from a factory because I just took one look at it and decided I was keeping it lol. They threw it out because of the over-bright screen issue.
Anyway when I powered it on all my black areas of the screen are bright green, and very bright green raster aperture lines are visible.
Apart from the black values looking awful (@P991_Dell_Sony: Your avatar text is invisible on the Dell monitor, it shows up fine on my VAIO 15" LCD Laptop panel) the picture quality is reasonable, just a little too washed out.
I'm taking this huge monitor to uni this week so I can run an apple mac + my VAIO laptop using one monitor
I want to go ahead with the resistor fix. I believe there is the resistors I need from Maplin Electronics? (I live in the U.K.) Should I use about 6.7M Ohm resistance? Will I need to snip away the old resistor or can I solder a new resistor on the circuit board leaving the old one still soldered on and in tact?
Oh and one more thing, would I electrocute myself soldering this resistor on the board? Obviously I'd unplug the monitor from the mains first.
(Oh and don't you just LOVE Google? Its how I came to this forum
That is why it is too dark, I think. If you had of removed the old one first, or used another 10MOhm it might have been good.Hi.
Just installed the new resistor and now the screen is a tad too dark.
One thing I did forget to do was to remove the old resistor on the board, its nigh on impossible for a scaredy cat like me to snip it off the board, so I soldered the resistor over the top. I can't remember the value of the new resistor I soldered on, but it wasn't the 10M Ohm one.
Do I need to get a 10M Ohm resistor and solder this over the top? I've either got a 5.2 or 6.2M Ohm installed at the moment, with the original in its place.
When I fire up the display with no video signal, one thing I now notice is the "Monitor is working" box is a very dull muddy white colour, and the colour bars for red, and green are visible but the one for Blue is not.
Ah thats why, had a feeling I may need to, but to be honest I think I can put up with it being a little too dark for now.That is why it is too dark, I think. If you had of removed the old one first, or used another 10MOhm it might have been good.
I'm no expert at all and really should just be reading, not offering advice. I could be entirely wrong, but the way I understanf it, you lowered the resistance too much by leaving in the old one and using a 4 through 6 MOhm range. Had you of used another 10MOhm (with the stock one still in place), it would have resulted in 5MOhm range. Thus removing it and putting in a 4-6 MOhm gives the same range, give or take whatever value you use.
You have lowered the resistance past the 5MOhm range = picture is too dark.
Someone please correct me if I am wrong. Thank you
There is an adjustment, (saw something?) , that lifts just the top corners.Hello.
A few days ago I bought a refurbished HP P1130 monitor, but the picture is vertically "bent" a little (pixels at the top corners are lower than the center). I have built an ECS cable and installed Windas (thanx to all people in this thread for schemes and experiences), but it seems that there isn't any adjustment tool for "vertical pin balance". Anybody has some tip how to correct it? Thanks
.I tried the Windas solution on my too bright Dell 991. Dropping G2 from 114 to 100 helped. Brought up the brightness OSD to 50 and tried to change G2 to 90. Now I cannot power up the monitor at all. Pushing the power button causes the green light to come on for about a second then go out immediately. I used another monitor to open the original .dat file in Windas, but could not laod it to the 991 because Windas came up with as WSC error. Have I blown it with the 991? I was so close!
(I hope) Anyway here goes. I purchased a ttl cable but I can't get the program to link up with my P1110 monitor. All it says is "can't connect the monitor check bus line and condition"
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