Hello.I own a dell P1130 manufactured in 08-2003 and i have a little "problem": in the morning when I start the monitor ( the monitor is cold) the screen is a little too bright but after about 15 minutes the brightness level is restored to normal.Does anyone know if that's a normal behaveiour for this monitor??? Or do you think there's something wrong with my monitor?? Does anybody have this this kind of problem with dell monitors??
I just registered here to say how happy im that this thread exists...I was searching for specs from my DELL P1110 on google cause i was selling to a friend.... why? Because it was overbrighted and with a green tint mixed with gray where it was supposed to be BLACK....
I tought that the monitor was done and was a clear effect of 5 years using it.... then i found this board.... bought myself a 6.8M Ohmz 1/2 Wattz yesterday and today opened the monitor and solded the res...
When i first turn it on it was exactly like it was... green tint, and not so great contrast... a little washed out...hours of reading on the net gave me headaches with it.... then i tried color return after some minutes... WOW!!!
I was amazed as one can be! It was like when i first bought it!!! Vivid colors, great contrast and bright... movies, pictures , all was a whole lot better now...it was like i had bought a new monitor...
So i just felt the need to register here to thank all of the people that helped each other cause was because of lots of people trying the mod that i tried too
I am returning to this thread after a few weeks of enjoyment with my monitor (sony fw900) Lucky me i was given this for nothing because it was so bright it was washed out and with flyback lines showing. The circuit diagram has 522 volts on the g2 of the crt.On reading this with a high quality digital meter (FLUKE) i got a reading of over 700 volts! with a bit of expermenting i settled on a 5meg variable resistor and adjusted it back to 522 volts. Did the image restore thing and i got a terrific picture.Setting it to sRGB gives me great results for browsing the web and viewing my own photos. This baby is so good i intend to get an intel mac in the next few months to go with it. At the moment i am using it with my 7 year old imac.
I received today sama cable as Claude, but i can't get windas to work
I have done windas patching twice and everything has gone perfectly, but when i connect the cable to monitor and try to save data to file it only gives error: "Can't connect to Monitor! Check Bus line and condition!".
I am using epox 8K3A+ motherboard and windows 2000 operating system.
Please help if you know what is wrong with my system.
Seems to be the place to post these.
Have a dell p1110 that was too bright but fixed with changing
resistor to 6.2mohm. Working great so far.
I also have a Sony cdp-g520p, with a similar problem. However, try as I may to get the monitor case off, I just can't. There are 2 screws at the
bottom, similar to the dellp1110, which I removed, but just cannot get the
case to snap off. Any help out there?
Thanks
So I just felt the need to register here to thank all of the people that helped each other cause was because of lots of people trying the mod that I tried too
That is what SM is all about, Helping the PC community one thread at a time.
I received today sama cable as Claude, but i can't get windas to work
I have done windas patching twice and everything has gone perfectly, but when i connect the cable to monitor and try to save data to file it only gives error: "Can't connect to Monitor! Check Bus line and condition!".
I am using epox 8K3A+ motherboard and windows 2000 operating system.
Please help if you know what is wrong with my system.
-jnf
check your connections again,make sure your com port is not disabled in your bios.
When looking at the back of the monitor the connection for that adapter goes
hello.Can anyone help me by explaining to me why: when the monitor is cold (just started) the brightness level is a little increased (the "black" is not very black but a dark gray) an the colors are a little washed-out....but after about 15-20 min. they all became normal and the image quality is excelent....(my monitor is a Dell P1130). sorry my english is not very good.... Any ideea ???
hello.Can anyone help me by explaining to me why: when the monitor is cold (just started) the brightness level is a little increased (the "black" is not very black but a dark gray) an the colors are a little washed-out....but after about 15-20 min. they all became normal and the image quality is excelent....(my monitor is a Dell P1130). sorry my english is not very good.... Any ideea ???
I'm guessing the monitor goes thru the "warmup" period in those 15-20 min.
OK, so far I'm lovin this thread with its nuggets of genius.
I recently bought a dell P1110 at a salvation army store and it has the brightness problem.
I'd rather try the WinDAS fix than the resistor since to me it seems a bit safer and better in the long run.
I've purchased the ECS cable from the previously mentioned ebay listing, so it's on the way.
I've been trying to follow the how to (which is great, btw) at http://www.geocities.com/gregua/windas/
I'm running into a problem, tho, after downloading windas.exe (not the incomplete file) and running it, i get the three files fine. But then it won't allow me to actually install it. So as far as the HowTo goes, im stuck on step 2.
i'm running winxp pro sp2, running as admin...i kno ive read of people having problems using the program but i havent read of many people being troubled with the installation.
Any help at all would be greatly apreciated. Thanks
These are the errors i get:
OK, so far I'm lovin this thread with its nuggets of genius.
I recently bought a dell P1110 at a salvation army store and it has the brightness problem.
I'd rather try the WinDAS fix than the resistor since to me it seems a bit safer and better in the long run.
I've purchased the ECS cable from the previously mentioned ebay listing, so it's on the way.
I've been trying to follow the how to (which is great, btw) at http://www.geocities.com/gregua/windas/
I'm running into a problem, tho, after downloading windas.exe (not the incomplete file) and running it, i get the three files fine. But then it won't allow me to actually install it. So as far as the HowTo goes, im stuck on step 2.
i'm running winxp pro sp2, running as admin...i kno ive read of people having problems using the program but i havent read of many people being troubled with the installation.
Any help at all would be greatly apreciated. Thanks
These are the errors i get:
It can be hard to get it working and patched but the instructions do work in winxp pro sp2 just fine.
I have managed to build the cable, and install the windas software.
I saved the DAT file, but it appears to have a very odd format.
I cant open it in note pad, it opens with a hex editor but still looks odd.
My dat file is attached(please rename the extenstion to "dat" before viewing as I could not attach the file with the dat extention) for those of you who have done this, does it look strange?
Also, I cant go into export mode(from the help menu in Windas to view the dat file).
any ideas?
could someone please attach what their dat file looks like?
I have managed to build the cable, and install the windas software.
I saved the DAT file, but it appears to have a very odd format.
I cant open it in note pad, it opens with a hex editor but still looks odd.
My dat file is attached(please rename the extenstion to "dat" before viewing as I could not attach the file with the dat extention) for those of you who have done this, does it look strange?
Also, I cant go into export mode(from the help menu in Windas to view the dat file).
any ideas?
could someone please attach what their dat file looks like?
Thanks
Charles
Try opening it with the old dos version of Edit, that's what i did in WinXP and it worked fine.
it should be right here C:\WINDOWS\system32\edit.com
I looked at your file with edit.com and it looks like you're at 163, so just drop it down to about 135 and see if that helps.
Ok, I'm not sure why, but WinDAS didnt like trying to be installed on my desktop, but it installed fine on my laptop (also running win xp pro sp2). I have no idea what the difference is, but now I at least have one computer with windas on it.
Now all I need is the ecs cable to get here...
Thanks for all the help
I wanted to buy the cable off the eBay auction, but there are no cables available any more.
Can I order this cable anywhere else?
(Just to make sure... there is no extra soldering required.. right? Just the windas software....)
Does anybody know if I can get it somewhere in Europe?
The shipping costs are really high to get it shipped to the Netherlands...
Or it takes really long... a few weeks....
First off, a big thanks to Claude for all the support he has given!
Just some generic help concerning the problems I've seen posted. The howto should contain most of this info, just thought I'd restate.
***
* Where to get the cable or it's parts?
It's a common part, ttl<>rs232 conversion. Finding a local suplier is probably possible, maybe check the phonebook and call around, or try google local. However, if you can afford the shipping from an ebayer, it's probably the easiest option. The fix does not require ANY soldering, unless you want to solder your cable for some reason (so far only one person has soldered wires to pins, probably had it handy).
* Why doesn't the cable work?
Use the admin account, enable the comport in your BIOS, try both COM 1 and COM 2 (well, this shouldn't help, but, sometimes you overlook what may be wrong with another port), Play with the windows serial port settings. Make sure the comports work with other applications. It's almost impossible that the problem is with your hardware, as these chips have beefy ESD protection. Don't give up, and try to rule things out, as always.
* I'm having trouble installing the program
I am not a windows OS expert. There are file properties (like the 'archive' property) that I don't understand. Being the admin user may help, (be carefull with the admin user, you should learn how to use a least privledged account)if all else fails, just keep messing with it. Try different directories, file permissions etc. There are viruses that corrupt the headers of PE and other files, one time this prevented me from extracting a zip. Maybe try other archives to rule that out.
* My monitor has problem XXXX, how do I fix it?
Windas can fix Geometry, Color/Brightness/Contrast 'picture' etc., Convergence,Mode Presets (Geometry and moire etc. for each resolution)
Just about everything you could imagine adjusting. Focous can be changed with the varistors on the flyback transformer.
Windas can't help with problems like flickering. You may try changing the low level geometry settings (these tweak the deflector coil driving circuits, which are likely causing the flicker). Or maybe the flicker could be caused by the alternating between high and low beam current.
Either case, these are probably caused by failing components, and likely can't be compensated by changing the behavior of windas controlled components. So flickering or extreme focous irregularity, need to be fixed the classic, hardware based, way.
***
If you've had to overcome any problems, tell people about it. Else, some one else comes across it and has to figure the same thing out all over again.
I have been trying to get hold of windas for some time now and finding somewhere i can download it and also crack the copy protection is just a god send. You have truly made my week!!!
About a year and a half ago i gave up on finding Windas(would have preferred to have re-calibrated the monitor this way) and performed the other mod by replacing the resister. I now have 2 of these lovely p1110's that i use for CAD work. I have had Mitsubishi Diamontrons and various iiyama's Vision master series 512,514 and these P1110 are as good if not better.
But......
I am still not happy with the settings on one of my p1110's. One has been untouched and runs perfectly(i know it is a miracle) but it is the one that i performed the resister mod that i need to try and re-calibrate with windas.
Do you think i should calibrate from its current reasonable setting or return it to its original condition and then work from there?????
OK, I went out and bought me one of these (P991), hoping to follow the Hutzelman approach. There are tons of these Dells at the Thrift Shops just waiting to get picked up. I got a very nice one from 2000 for $15, with the washed out picture, of course. Why people donate these with the bad picture, I cannot answer. But upon opening, one is confronted with a different board than the one Hutzelman has on his site. R459 is nowhere to be found. So I dug up this thread:
which identified the necessary resistor to modify as R050. This is one of those tiny square mini resistors. Apparently, you need to put a 1M Ohm resistor in parallel with it to fix the problem or replace it entirely with a 500K Ohm. I am enclosing a picture here of the P991 board (caution, large file) so you can see what I'm talking about:
The area in question is in the upper right hand part of the board. R050 is that tiny black thing just left of IC005. This fix appears to be legit, but I thought someone here might be able to comment on its worthiness, as well as to give some direction on how the hell to solder the corrective resistor in place.
Hi!
I received today sama cable as Claude, but i can't get windas to work
I have done windas patching twice and everything has gone perfectly, but when i connect the cable to monitor and try to save data to file it only gives error: "Can't connect to Monitor! Check Bus line and condition!".
I am using epox 8K3A+ motherboard and windows 2000 operating system.
Please help if you know what is wrong with my system.
-jnf
Hi there,
I`ve got same problem as described above by Zero, It seems to be common,
I`m using gigabyte GA-8IR533 & XP+SP2 (if that matters), bios port1-2 enabled, devices connected with homemade cable (max232 - checked). Does anyone tried to change bit/sec rate? (by default 9600)
Any suggestion would be much appreciated `cause I getting desperate with
my G500 overbrightess problem!!!
Hi there,
I`ve got same problem as described above by Zero, It seems to be common,
I`m using gigabyte GA-8IR533 & XP+SP2 (if that matters), bios port1-2 enabled, devices connected with homemade cable (max232 - checked). Does anyone tried to change bit/sec rate? (by default 9600)
Any suggestion would be much appreciated `cause I getting desperate with
my G500 overbrightess problem!!!
Had the same problem with this cable
and getting the same message 'cannot connetct to
monitor etc.
Have found that the txd and rxd were mislabled.
Switched them around and it worked.
Also, notepad in winxp did not save the file in a proper
format, so had to use hex editor to change g2 value and save.
Also, as stated before in one of the posts, have to save values before exiting
windas for the osd to work.ie go to adjustments, proceedure,final setting, say ok the exit windas.
Does anyone know where i can get a pre built cable to use with windas and a p1110 other than hobby enginering. I am in the uk and they are slow to process my order so i was hoping that maybe there was someone on this site that knows somewhere in the uk that sells these. Also what is the correct name of the cable.
Im a forum newbie but long time digital photographer so please go easy on me
Some history.
I recently purchased a dell P1130 with the intention of calibrating it using the Spyder2 Pro. I use my monitor for graphic manipulation / post processing photography images so colour accuracy and high res are important to me (hence my purchase) . The monitor is second hand, refurbished and manufactured 2002 Dec. All seems okay in easy, variable modes, however in order to calibrate my monitor i set it to expert mode so that i have access to RGB gain and bias adjustements.
I too experience the same normal operations as mentioned on this thread relating to normal cooling up period where things look brighter or greener, but after this things look okay.
Problem is that in rgb mode, the monitor seems a little less contrasty and not as bright. I go through the normal calibration mode and adjust my monitor to 6500K with correct RGB levels adjustment. Things are great colorwise and prints match screen look. However its just not as bright as when i (after calibration) switch my monitor to Variable or other modes.
Ive read expert mode is supposed to be more colour accurate and therefore think this might be normal for my monitor... but im not sure.
(eg brighter conditions for 6500K variable mode vs 6500L expert colour calibrated mode). - please note i have in expert mode contrast at 100% and brightness at about 50-60% above this colours start looking washed out. But when i flick to variable mode and 6500K settings, things are very bright and i find myself adjusting contrast or brightness down. - but i dont want to work in variable mode.
Can someone please clarify if they experience this also and if it is normal.
Comments
I tought that the monitor was done and was a clear effect of 5 years using it.... then i found this board.... bought myself a 6.8M Ohmz 1/2 Wattz yesterday and today opened the monitor and solded the res...
When i first turn it on it was exactly like it was... green tint, and not so great contrast... a little washed out...hours of reading on the net gave me headaches with it.... then i tried color return after some minutes... WOW!!!
I was amazed as one can be! It was like when i first bought it!!! Vivid colors, great contrast and bright... movies, pictures , all was a whole lot better now...it was like i had bought a new monitor...
So i just felt the need to register here to thank all of the people that helped each other cause was because of lots of people trying the mod that i tried too
[]'s
Pacote-san
I received today sama cable as Claude, but i can't get windas to work
I have done windas patching twice and everything has gone perfectly, but when i connect the cable to monitor and try to save data to file it only gives error: "Can't connect to Monitor! Check Bus line and condition!".
I am using epox 8K3A+ motherboard and windows 2000 operating system.
Please help if you know what is wrong with my system.
-jnf
Have a dell p1110 that was too bright but fixed with changing
resistor to 6.2mohm. Working great so far.
I also have a Sony cdp-g520p, with a similar problem. However, try as I may to get the monitor case off, I just can't. There are 2 screws at the
bottom, similar to the dellp1110, which I removed, but just cannot get the
case to snap off. Any help out there?
Thanks
That is what SM is all about, Helping the PC community one thread at a time.
check your connections again,make sure your com port is not disabled in your bios.
When looking at the back of the monitor the connection for that adapter goes
From top going down..
GND
VCC (+5)
TXD
RXD
. hope this helps.
good luck.
I don't seem to be able to get some of the .dlls
to make it work.
Thanks
all the files & info you need are here http://www.geocities.com/gregua/windas/install.html
I'm guessing the monitor goes thru the "warmup" period in those 15-20 min.
I recently bought a dell P1110 at a salvation army store and it has the brightness problem.
I'd rather try the WinDAS fix than the resistor since to me it seems a bit safer and better in the long run.
I've purchased the ECS cable from the previously mentioned ebay listing, so it's on the way.
I've been trying to follow the how to (which is great, btw) at http://www.geocities.com/gregua/windas/
I'm running into a problem, tho, after downloading windas.exe (not the incomplete file) and running it, i get the three files fine. But then it won't allow me to actually install it. So as far as the HowTo goes, im stuck on step 2.
i'm running winxp pro sp2, running as admin...i kno ive read of people having problems using the program but i havent read of many people being troubled with the installation.
Any help at all would be greatly apreciated. Thanks
These are the errors i get:
It can be hard to get it working and patched but the instructions do work in winxp pro sp2 just fine.
Follow the instructions to the letter & you will have a working program. http://www.geocities.com/gregua/windas/install.html
I have managed to build the cable, and install the windas software.
I saved the DAT file, but it appears to have a very odd format.
I cant open it in note pad, it opens with a hex editor but still looks odd.
My dat file is attached(please rename the extenstion to "dat" before viewing as I could not attach the file with the dat extention) for those of you who have done this, does it look strange?
Also, I cant go into export mode(from the help menu in Windas to view the dat file).
any ideas?
could someone please attach what their dat file looks like?
Thanks
Charles
Try opening it with the old dos version of Edit, that's what i did in WinXP and it worked fine.
it should be right here C:\WINDOWS\system32\edit.com
I looked at your file with edit.com and it looks like you're at 163, so just drop it down to about 135 and see if that helps.
Now all I need is the ecs cable to get here...
Thanks for all the help
Windas (and my hideous home made cable) worked perfectly! Needed to drop the G2 value to 125.
HUGE difference.
Thanks
Charles
You're welcome.:)
An other satified customer. :celebrate
Can I order this cable anywhere else?
(Just to make sure... there is no extra soldering required.. right? Just the windas software....)
Does anybody know if I can get it somewhere in Europe?
The shipping costs are really high to get it shipped to the Netherlands...
Or it takes really long... a few weeks....
First off, a big thanks to Claude for all the support he has given!
Just some generic help concerning the problems I've seen posted. The howto should contain most of this info, just thought I'd restate.
***
* Where to get the cable or it's parts?
It's a common part, ttl<>rs232 conversion. Finding a local suplier is probably possible, maybe check the phonebook and call around, or try google local. However, if you can afford the shipping from an ebayer, it's probably the easiest option. The fix does not require ANY soldering, unless you want to solder your cable for some reason (so far only one person has soldered wires to pins, probably had it handy).
* Why doesn't the cable work?
Use the admin account, enable the comport in your BIOS, try both COM 1 and COM 2 (well, this shouldn't help, but, sometimes you overlook what may be wrong with another port), Play with the windows serial port settings. Make sure the comports work with other applications. It's almost impossible that the problem is with your hardware, as these chips have beefy ESD protection. Don't give up, and try to rule things out, as always.
* I'm having trouble installing the program
I am not a windows OS expert. There are file properties (like the 'archive' property) that I don't understand. Being the admin user may help, (be carefull with the admin user, you should learn how to use a least privledged account)if all else fails, just keep messing with it. Try different directories, file permissions etc. There are viruses that corrupt the headers of PE and other files, one time this prevented me from extracting a zip. Maybe try other archives to rule that out.
* My monitor has problem XXXX, how do I fix it?
Windas can fix Geometry, Color/Brightness/Contrast 'picture' etc., Convergence,Mode Presets (Geometry and moire etc. for each resolution)
Just about everything you could imagine adjusting. Focous can be changed with the varistors on the flyback transformer.
Windas can't help with problems like flickering. You may try changing the low level geometry settings (these tweak the deflector coil driving circuits, which are likely causing the flicker). Or maybe the flicker could be caused by the alternating between high and low beam current.
Either case, these are probably caused by failing components, and likely can't be compensated by changing the behavior of windas controlled components. So flickering or extreme focous irregularity, need to be fixed the classic, hardware based, way.
***
If you've had to overcome any problems, tell people about it. Else, some one else comes across it and has to figure the same thing out all over again.
Might i just say you have created an excellent website!
http://www.geocities.com/gregua/windas/
I have been trying to get hold of windas for some time now and finding somewhere i can download it and also crack the copy protection is just a god send. You have truly made my week!!!
About a year and a half ago i gave up on finding Windas(would have preferred to have re-calibrated the monitor this way) and performed the other mod by replacing the resister. I now have 2 of these lovely p1110's that i use for CAD work. I have had Mitsubishi Diamontrons and various iiyama's Vision master series 512,514 and these P1110 are as good if not better.
But......
I am still not happy with the settings on one of my p1110's. One has been untouched and runs perfectly(i know it is a miracle) but it is the one that i performed the resister mod that i need to try and re-calibrate with windas.
Do you think i should calibrate from its current reasonable setting or return it to its original condition and then work from there?????
Can you or anyone else offer any advice on this??
Thanks Guys;)
http://www.macfixitforums.com/php/printthread.php?Cat=&Board=periphs&main=643308&type=thread
which identified the necessary resistor to modify as R050. This is one of those tiny square mini resistors. Apparently, you need to put a 1M Ohm resistor in parallel with it to fix the problem or replace it entirely with a 500K Ohm. I am enclosing a picture here of the P991 board (caution, large file) so you can see what I'm talking about:
http://img349.imageshack.us/my.php?image=p9915rs.jpg
The area in question is in the upper right hand part of the board. R050 is that tiny black thing just left of IC005. This fix appears to be legit, but I thought someone here might be able to comment on its worthiness, as well as to give some direction on how the hell to solder the corrective resistor in place.
I`ve got same problem as described above by Zero, It seems to be common,
I`m using gigabyte GA-8IR533 & XP+SP2 (if that matters), bios port1-2 enabled, devices connected with homemade cable (max232 - checked). Does anyone tried to change bit/sec rate? (by default 9600)
Any suggestion would be much appreciated `cause I getting desperate with
my G500 overbrightess problem!!!
Had the same problem with this cable
and getting the same message 'cannot connetct to
monitor etc.
Have found that the txd and rxd were mislabled.
Switched them around and it worked.
Also, notepad in winxp did not save the file in a proper
format, so had to use hex editor to change g2 value and save.
Also, as stated before in one of the posts, have to save values before exiting
windas for the osd to work.ie go to adjustments, proceedure,final setting, say ok the exit windas.
Does anyone know where i can get a pre built cable to use with windas and a p1110 other than hobby enginering. I am in the uk and they are slow to process my order so i was hoping that maybe there was someone on this site that knows somewhere in the uk that sells these. Also what is the correct name of the cable.
Thanks,
Ross
Im a forum newbie but long time digital photographer so please go easy on me
Some history.
I recently purchased a dell P1130 with the intention of calibrating it using the Spyder2 Pro. I use my monitor for graphic manipulation / post processing photography images so colour accuracy and high res are important to me (hence my purchase) . The monitor is second hand, refurbished and manufactured 2002 Dec. All seems okay in easy, variable modes, however in order to calibrate my monitor i set it to expert mode so that i have access to RGB gain and bias adjustements.
I too experience the same normal operations as mentioned on this thread relating to normal cooling up period where things look brighter or greener, but after this things look okay.
Problem is that in rgb mode, the monitor seems a little less contrasty and not as bright. I go through the normal calibration mode and adjust my monitor to 6500K with correct RGB levels adjustment. Things are great colorwise and prints match screen look. However its just not as bright as when i (after calibration) switch my monitor to Variable or other modes.
Ive read expert mode is supposed to be more colour accurate and therefore think this might be normal for my monitor... but im not sure.
(eg brighter conditions for 6500K variable mode vs 6500L expert colour calibrated mode). - please note i have in expert mode contrast at 100% and brightness at about 50-60% above this colours start looking washed out. But when i flick to variable mode and 6500K settings, things are very bright and i find myself adjusting contrast or brightness down. - but i dont want to work in variable mode.
Can someone please clarify if they experience this also and if it is normal.
Thanks.