I have received a wonderful email from LAGRUNAUER about the resistor fix for the p1130
There is no r459 in the P1130, and if you choose the resistor fix approach, you need to follow the G2 cable from the A1 board (connected to the neck of the monitor) to the main board (D board), then the resistor r941, which is the one next to the cable, needs to be increased.
"In order to solder another resistor in parallel, you need to un-mount the D2 board and that involves removing the CRT, the CRT housing, and the A boards, besides several cables, connectors and grounds. There are several high voltage components inside a monitor which can be lethal. This is very tedious work, and unless you are familiar with electronics and have previous experience in working with monitors, I do not recommend this approach.
See attachment.
The R941 resistor is a 22M ohm resistor and from searching the net people have replaced it with an 16.8M ohm resistor. Thanks again LAGRUNAUER, and all others for there valuable insight.
I have the schematics of both the p1100 and the p1130 if anyone would like them.
Here is another fix that may work for you.
Press and hold the select key on the front panel of the monitor for more than 2 sec when the monitor is in standby mode. Your screen will go bright then fade alittle. The LED lights will flash amber and green. When the screen stops to fade you can restart your monitor.
Some other unrelated functions are:
Pressing and holding the up arrow button gives you the serial number, whilst pressing and holding the + button gives more detail manufacturing info.
My monitor was too bright. Tried to do resister fix. First tried 6.8 ohm, too dark. Tried 8.2.. still too dark. Tried 9.1 still too dark. Well, tried to go back to ten ohms, and it is still too dark. I may have leaked solder from the r459-r457.
The monitor looks ok for a split second when I turn the monitor off and right after it clicks off, the screen shows! Is there any way for me to fix this? Or even understand what is wrong. Thanks for reading, please help.
I can safely say that after waiting for my monitors to warm up and reading this post that the color return fix is the best one to go with. I now have two perfect Dell P1130 monitors that work great. I got them for free because of the problem and I was just going to pay a shop to fix them. Now all I have to worry about is the increace in my electric bill!
No need to shout! I tried the colour return and it was not that effective, maybe you should consider this.
If you want to do a colour return on the p991 you just need to press the menu select button for about 5 seconds whilst the monitor is on and in standby. Having your computer off and monitor on is easiest.
This is my first post and I just wanted to thank everyone involved in this thread!! My monitor is a CPD-G500 with a severe over-brightness problem. I've received my converter from Hobby Engineering and made my own 20 foot RS-232 extension cable so it would reach my other machines for monitor re-programming. I discovered that my initial G2 value was set to 186. I brought mine down to 120 and that allows for a brightness setting of 50 with contrast at 80 and looks fabulous. Previously whenever I would run the Color Restore function I would get the flashing yellow light indicating that it failed. And then I would have to remove AC input power then re apply power to restore functionality. Now it passes the Color Restore consistently.
I also noticed that prior to running the Color Restore function my brightness was only slightly higher than I wanted but acceptable when set to 0. However after running the Color Restore I had severe raster retrace lines on screen all the time and rediculous brightness that washed out the color. The first Color Restore I tried appeared to have passed But upon returning to the display I found severe raster retrace lines that were spaced about 1 inch apart from top to bottom diagonally across the screen. I have to believe that somehow the Color Restore wrote a bogus value into the E²PROM.
I'm currently in the process of learning the Windas software and figuring out how to set all the default factory values as near to perfection for my monitor as possible.
I couldn't have done it without you guys. You all ROCK!!!
This is a very cheap prebuilt adapter, one user has said it 'doesn't work', however, I believe it works as it is exactly the chip you need. It's so far the cheapest prebuilt solution at 19$ including shipping. It also uses the DB9 port, so it debunks the myth that you need a DB25.
No serial DB9 or DB25 RS-232(serial) ports? Use USB!
Yes, some chips take the TTL signals and put them onto USB. I have not tried any of this yet, but if one of you wants something to do, you can try this. It works, but I don't have the chip to try it with.
But, if you have the serial port, use it, you won't get any advantage using USB.
Color Return Not working?Doubts about the software fix and black level?
Color return Is what caused this whole fiasco, my current theory is that it raises your G2 to compensate monitor aging, but the flawed algorithm can't measure the effect of G2.
I have calibrated my monitor's color ON THE DOT, with windas 'White Balance Procedure'and a colorimiter, and I have not had to raise the G2 very high.
I am at brightness level 60 ( not that it means anything, as the scale is calibrated), and my Avatar is completely visible, black is black in the dark etc. Your monitor still has life in it, Color Return has just made a mistake.
If perfect color is critical to you, do the whole recalibration with Windas and a colorimiter! Colorimiters can be found used on ebay, and, most importantly, can be sold on ebay for around the same price, they are light and easy to ship. I got my for 55$ including shipping. After recalibration your monitor will be as good as it possibly can be, and you'll know, to a great precision, just how bright or tinted it is, if at all. So this makes for completely acureate colorspace calibration.
The windas white balance procedure, when done with a colorimiter, will re calibrate the settings for color return, such that it works again, however, if you havn't sold your colorimeter, use it instead.
DO NOT use colorimeter software to make color profiles, these modify your video cards signal to match the mis calibration of your monitor. Only use a colorimiter to take readings while you adjust the hardware of the monitor using WinDAS Whitebalance Procedure. You may need to modify the video cards signal for gamma correction, other than that, don't fool with the video signal.
Only touched the G2?Color return likely will make same mistakes.
If your monitor is acceptable after adjusting the G2, don't touch color return! As I understand, after software adjusting your G2, brightness/contrast controlls still behave acceptably. Speak up if you know this isn't the case.
Color return has bug in it and will bump your G2 too high, such that even retrace lines become visible.
Know something we don't? Speak up!
PrimeSuspect is interested in consolodating the information in this thread, so that you won't have to read past a swamp of posts just to get an idea what fixes are available.
If you discovered anything interesting, even if it's as simple as something you had to do to get things working right, post it. It helps make instructions more fail safe.
Chances are, other people are in the same boat as you.
I discovered that my initial G2 value was set to 186. I brought mine down to 120 and that allows for a brightness setting of 50 with contrast at 80 and looks fabulous. Previously whenever I would run the Color Restore function I would get the flashing yellow light indicating that it failed. And then I would have to remove AC input power then re apply power to restore functionality. Now it passes the Color Restore consistently.
I also noticed that prior to running the Color Restore function my brightness was only slightly higher than I wanted but acceptable when set to 0. However after running the Color Restore I had severe raster retrace lines on screen all the time and rediculous brightness that washed out the color. The first Color Restore I tried appeared to have passed But upon returning to the display I found severe raster retrace lines that were spaced about 1 inch apart from top to bottom diagonally across the screen. I have to believe that somehow the Color Restore wrote a bogus value into the E²PROM.
I'm currently in the process of learning the Windas software and figuring out how to set all the default factory values as near to perfection for my monitor as possible.
Thank you for posting your experience! At a G2 of 120 does the brightness/contrast behave normally? I agree with you that color return doesn't work correctly, another user mentioned that a Sony/Dell monitor of simmiliar use and age never developed over-brightness, while another with the color restore function did. If you do the whitebalance procedure (don't try it without a colorimeter), you can recalibrate color return, it seems to work off of the settings under =color in the .dat. Other than that, It's best to leave color return alone.
My monitor was too bright. Tried to do resister fix. First tried 6.8 ohm, too dark. Tried 8.2.. still too dark. Tried 9.1 still too dark. Well, tried to go back to ten ohms, and it is still too dark. I may have leaked solder from the r459-r457.
The monitor looks ok for a split second when I turn the monitor off and right after it clicks off, the screen shows! Is there any way for me to fix this? Or even understand what is wrong. Thanks for reading, please help.
if you have made any other connection with that leaked solder, you have lowered the resistance between the G2 pin on the CRT tube, and that cable that comes from the power supply board. This will mean your screen will be too dark.
So yeah, I bet you knew that already.
hmm, maybe if you remove the resistor all together, it may be too bright?Maybe it will destroy the leaked solder connection?Maybe it will break something?
Sorry, all I can really say is that I think you're right, you leaked solder and so lowered the resistance. Do you have a sony monitor?You could have tried the windas fix.
when I use windas, it have a error message "Can't connect your monitor, check bus line and condition". I use das of dos version, connect is succuss. why? My windas config is com2 and manual. Is it correct?
This fix is amazing. I just ran it today. Got my cable from hobby engineering. And immediately went forward. I did have to splice the default wire and switch them (three way swap of the red, orange, and yellow wire with green left alone). Now the black level on my monitor is amazing. i almost feel like leaving the cable attached to the monitor so i can keep playing with new setting. but i think i will probably remove it. keep playing could be detrimental to my monitor and my time . beside, I can use this cable and the windas with my 520GS also.....
can anyone post a list of all the parameters as a reference? I am sure someone here has figured out all the parameters.
Hehe, wonder how much sony charges the service guys for the interface cable and windas
Thank you for posting your experience! At a G2 of 120 does the brightness/contrast behave normally? I agree with you that color return doesn't work correctly, another user mentioned that a Sony/Dell monitor of simmiliar use and age never developed over-brightness, while another with the color restore function did. If you do the whitebalance procedure (don't try it without a colorimeter), you can recalibrate color return, it seems to work off of the settings under =color in the .dat. Other than that, It's best to leave color return alone.
P991 DELL SONY,
Yeah with my G2 at a value of 120 my G500 is better than when new!! I bought the monitor 5 years ago when the monitor was less than a year old. It has a Mfg date of May 2000. Back then my brightness was set to 30. Over the last 5 years I've noticed I slowly had to reduce the brightness down to 0. It has been at 0 for about the last 8-12 month's but finally around Christmas 05' I could not deal with the gray looking black's appearing on my screen.
So I googled G500 over brightness problem and found this thread.
Since adjusting the G2 down to 120 the brightness and contrast seem to function perfectly. I had never tried the Image Restore function on my G500 and decided to try this out. That's when my monitor wigged out and became unusable. The brightness was so severe that there were these diagonal raster retrace lines all over the screen. I was afraid my monitor would self destruct by burning the CRT phosphor. So I shut it down and went to my local electronics house and bought 6.8M, 12M, 14M, 16M, 18M, 20M, & 22 Megohm 1/2 watt resistors and decided to try out the parallel resistor fix. I found by experimentation that with the 18 Megohm resistor added across R459 my G2 voltage was reduced from 730 Vdc down to 600 vdc and my brightness looked good again.
The resistance went from 9.9 Megohms to 6.6 Megohms as read on my Fluke 87 DVM. This was acceptable initially for me to continue using the monitor. But I really wanted to get the Windas interface working so I built my own breadboard adapter and wasted several hours fiddling with it and it never worked so I ordered the Hobby Engineering adapter and rewired it to match the ECS port on my monitor and "Bang"! It worked right off the bat!
I then removed the 18 Megohm resistor and adjusted the G2 down to 120 and when I measure the G2 voltage I found 580 Vdc From G2 Gnd(Black wire) to G2 hot(The red wire). I have the RS-232 cable routed around my office nicely tucked out of sight so I can tweak it any time.
I absolutely Love this monitor and would like to keep it running this well for a long long time
And I've just picked up a G520 for my wife's prime system as well! I'm just sure I'll be tweakin' it too
I'll keep posting my findings as I go along since I've bookmarked this thread and get email notifications.
This is a very cheap prebuilt adapter, one user has said it 'doesn't work', however, I believe it works as it is exactly the chip you need. It's so far the cheapest prebuilt solution at 19$ including shipping. It also uses the DB9 port, so it debunks the myth that you need a DB25.
I bought this adapter and should be receiving it next mondday or tuesday ( i hope), i will report in when i connect it to my monitor ( dell P1110).
HOW TO MAKE A ESC CABLE USING A BREADBOARD
EQUIPMENT
Max 232 chip
Serial cable (I used a Db9)
Wires (I cut up a USB header to get the .001 4 pin connector to connect to the monitor. A floppy power cord is equally as good.)
5 1 uf capacitors (ceramic 104M)
Prepare the Serial Cable
There are many ways to connect a serial cable to the breadboard, I found the easiest was to solder wires to the male pins. I found that cutting the cable for the wires was pointless as I couldn’t match the colours up with the pins as I only had a moulded cable.. Another way is to just stick the wires into a the female connector i(if you have a female to female cord) or stick them into the serial port of the computer.
To connect the serial cable to the breadboard you will be using pins 2 (tx), 3 (rx) 5 (grd). (if you are using a db25 cable then pin 2=rx 3=tx and 7=grd ) But before you do this you must close the circuit by connecting pins 4 (dtr) 6 (dsr) 8 (cts) together, (db25 pins 20, 6, 5). I managed to run some solder over each pin. Or use a female to female cord and just stick wires into each.
PIN CONNECTOR
2 TX
3 RX
5 GROUND
FUSE PINS 4 6 8
ECS (TTL) to Breadboard
For this I cut up a USB header (cost 5 dollars) for the connection to the monitor. Or you can use a spare Floppy drive power cord, or stick the wires into the monitor with blue tack.
CONNECTING THE CIRCUIT
You can use the numbers on the breadboard to help you to connect the circuit
Insert the max 232 chip into the top of the board with the small dot on the chip (pin 1) in D1 and pin 16 in F1.
Insert The Capacitors.
CAP1 D1……..D3
CAP2 D2……..G1
CAP3 D4……..D5
CAP4 D6……..G2
CAP5 BLUE 1…RED 1 ( FURTHER MOST FIGHT ROW IN THE ELECTRICAL SEGMENT OF THE BOARD)
INSERT THE WIRES (DB9)
SERIAL CABLE BB LOCATION NEXT TO PIN ON CHIP
PIN2 (TX)…….… D7 7=TX =T2OUT
PIN3 (RX)………… D8 8=RX=R2IN
PIN5 (GRD)....... BLUE 4
FROM THE MONITOR ECS, TTL TO BREADBOARD
WIRE BB LOCATION NEXT TO PIN ON CHIP
1=GROUND BLUE1
2=5+ RED1
3=RX G7 9=RX=R2OUT
4=TX G8 10=TX=T2IN
LINK THE CIRCUIT CONNECT THE BRIDGING WIRES TO THE BREADBOARD
WIRE BB LOCATION
1 H1….....RED3
2 H2…….G4
3 H4…….I10
4 G6…….H10
5 J10…...BLUE3
That’s it you're all finished…. Secure the serial and the ttl parts with some tape and connect to your computer and monitor.
HOW TO MAKE A ESC CABLE USING A BREADBOARD
EQUIPMENT
Max 232 chip
Serial cable (I used a Db9)
Wires (I cut up a USB header to get the .001 4 pin connector to connect to the monitor. A floppy power cord is equally as good.)
5 1 uf capacitors (ceramic 104M)
Prepare the Serial Cable
There are many ways to connect a serial cable to the breadboard, I found the easiest was to solder wires to the male pins. I found that cutting the cable for the wires was pointless as I couldn’t match the colours up with the pins as I only had a moulded cable.. Another way is to just stick the wires into a the female connector i(if you have a female to female cord) or stick them into the serial port of the computer.
To connect the serial cable to the breadboard you will be using pins 2 (tx), 3 (rx) 5 (grd). (if you are using a db25 cable then pin 2=rx 3=tx and 7=grd ) But before you do this you must close the circuit by connecting pins 4 (dtr) 6 (dsr) 8 (cts) together, (db25 pins 20, 6, 5). I managed to run some solder over each pin. Or use a female to female cord and just stick wires into each.
PIN CONNECTOR
2 TX
3 RX
4 GROUND
FUSE PINS 4 6 8
ECS (TTL) to Breadboard
For this I cut up a USB header (cost 5 dollars) for the connection to the monitor. Or you can use a spare Floppy drive power cord, or stick the wires into the monitor with blue tack.
CONNECTING THE CIRCUIT
You can use the numbers on the breadboard to help you to connect the circuit
Insert the max 232 chip into the top of the board with the small dot on the chip (pin 1) in D1 and pin 16 in F1.
Insert The Capacitors.
CAP1 D1……..D3
CAP2 D2……..G1
CAP3 D4……..D5
CAP4 D6……..G2
CAP5 BLUE 1…RED 1 ( FURTHER MOST FIGHT ROW IN THE ELECTRICAL SEGMENT OF THE BOARD)
INSERT THE WIRES (DB9)
SERIAL CABLE BB LOCATION NEXT TO PIN ON CHIP
PIN2 (TX)…….… D7 7=TX =T2OUT
PIN3 (RX)………… D8 8=RX=R2IN
PIN5 (GRD)....... BLUE 4
FROM THE MONITOR ECS, TTL TO BREADBOARD
WIRE BB LOCATION NEXT TO PIN ON CHIP
1=GROUND BLUE1
2=5+ RED1
3=RX G7 9=RX=R2OUT
4=TX G8 10=TX=T2IN
LINK THE CIRCUIT CONNECT THE BRIDGING WIRES TO THE BREADBOARD
WIRE BB LOCATION
1 H1….....RED3
2 H2…….G4
3 H4…….I10
4 G6…….H10
5 J10…...BLUE3
That’s it you're all finished…. Secure the serial and the ttl parts with some tape and connect to your computer and monitor.
Hi, I'm TC and own one of these "great?" Dell P1110 monitors. Mine has been decomissioned for a year since it got to bright and I have been following this thread for some time now.
I considered doing the resistor but I use this monitor in film production and can't have any shadows and picture alteration, so I patiently waited until now. I see WinDAS may work for me but I have a queston, nothing that I've seen that has been covered here, or maybe I missed it.
First, I have a very bright picture on this monitor and there is no real black. I will assume the change in the tutorial will do my brightness problem fine.
My question is, the washed out black has a red tint. To get it to gray I have to turn the red bias all the way to zero and bump up the blue and green a tad. Should the correction to the brightness correct that problem or will I have to lower the red gain also to get it back to where it needs to be? If so, how can I do that without the device mentioned above to adjust color balance? Is it possible to just lower that a bit at a time also until the gain isn't too bright or is the just an effect of the brightness adjustment causing it to be out of balance?
Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated as I plan on ordering my connector Monday if they come in and have a film coming up in a week or so that I will need the monitor. I have a backup 21" but even though it has great black and color, it's not quite as sharp as the triniton tube.
Was looking for a new monitor and saw a Dell P1110 for $100 on craigslist so I decided to go check it out. Before going to the guy's house I did some research and read on the interweb that these monitors had the tendency to be too bright and washed out. I decided to go buy it anyway. The guy had 9 of them he was selling and of the 4 he tested with me there, all were "washed out." He ended up selling me the monitor for $40 to compensate for the poor picture quality.
I got it home an tinkered around with setting the brightness to zero and the contrast to 100 and it was very much improved but not good enough. I went into my video card settings and tweaked the color around and it is almost perfect...although I have nothing to compare it too right now.
I haven't tried doing the "color return" feature yet because I have read on here that it may disable some control settings? My question is, is the picture quality not as good as it could be by adjusting the video card settings as opposed to trying the "color return" feature or soldering in the new resistor? If I can get this thing humping good with no video card correction I may buy a couple more of these to give to friends and family.
Was looking for a new monitor and saw a Dell P1110 for $100 on craigslist so I decided to go check it out. Before going to the guy's house I did some research and read on the interweb that these monitors had the tendency to be too bright and washed out. I decided to go buy it anyway. The guy had 9 of them he was selling and of the 4 he tested with me there, all were "washed out." He ended up selling me the monitor for $40 to compensate for the poor picture quality.
I got it home an tinkered around with setting the brightness to zero and the contrast to 100 and it was very much improved but not good enough. I went into my video card settings and tweaked the color around and it is almost perfect...although I have nothing to compare it too right now.
I haven't tried doing the "color return" feature yet because I have read on here that it may disable some control settings? My question is, is the picture quality not as good as it could be by adjusting the video card settings as opposed to trying the "color return" feature or soldering in the new resistor? If I can get this thing humping good with no video card correction I may buy a couple more of these to give to friends and family.
Any opinions are appreciated.
BroHam I can't really speak from experience concerning your model of monitor since I don't own the Dell P1110. But I do own a Sony CPD-G500 which is based on the Sony G1 platform that I think the P1110 is also based. And I can tell you that you will be amazed at the difference when you correct the G2 drive voltage error. If you're experiencing the over brightness that I was seeing there is no way around reducing the G2 drive voltage. I was seeing 730 Vdc when I started out on this adventure with my G500. I've set myself up with the Hobby Engineering Max232 converter and reprogrammed my G2 setting from 186 down to 120 this put my g2 drive level at 580 Vdc and it is simply incredible the difference in color vibrance. You are right about the Image Restore/Color Restore whatever they name it. My G500 for the record is actually named Image Restore. But in the case of my poor G500 should read more like Image Destroy!! Cause it sure did a number on mine. And once it went out of whack that first and only successful time I tried it, There was no recovery from it. At least for me. I must have tried it a hundred times after it seemed to pass the re-calibration and it simply would go into this flashing amber light like I just switched off the computer. Then I would have to remove power for a minute or so to get a picture back. If you hit the local electronics house in your area(Not Radio Quack) a real professional house you'll find all the resistors you need to do a quick fix. I did the simpler Parallel resistor fix on mine to keep using it until I found out about the Windas + Max232 converter solution. If you can wait for the Hobby Engineering delivery I would highly recommend going this route. P991 DELL SONY has put up a superb website with all the details necessary to get you up and running. The plus to this is no soldering skills required. Just match the .100 4 pin Molex up to your monitor is all I had to do. The Hobby Engineering part is mis-wired for the ECS port as you'll see.
But it's super simple to remove the pins and match them up to your ECS port.
I'm really psyched about the feature set Windas presents and am now contemplating a VG-823 purchase to do a full scale professional alignment on my G500 and my wife's G520
Well I must be lucky because the "color return" feature made a huge improvement, to the point where the monitor looks great on 40 brightness and 85 contrast(no video card tweaking). I may have to go and buy a few more of these...at $40 a pop its a great deal. If I have to mod the other ones its still a great purchase.
I am having a bit of a problem getting it to work on my P1110 .
The adapter has
VCC
RXD
TXD
GND
CTS
RTS
What i wanted to know from people why got their adapters to works is,when you're facing your monitor from the back looking at the service port what are the order of the pins?
I am having a bit of a problem getting it to work on my P1110 .
The adapter has
VCC
RXD
TXD
GND
CTS
RTS
What i wanted to know from people why got their adapters to works is,when you're facing your monitor from the back looking at the service port what are the order of the pins?
My understanding is that from Top going down is
GND
+5
RX
TX
is this order correct?
Thank you.
I got it working & adjusted my monitor.:):headbange
The setting from Back is
GND
VCC (+5)
TXD
RXD .
Just in case anybody want to know my G2 was at 167 so i dropped it to 140 might try 135 later but for now it's all good . :thumbup
BroHam I can't really speak from experience concerning your model of monitor since I don't own the Dell P1110. But I do own a Sony CPD-G500 which is based on the Sony G1 platform that I think the P1110 is also based. And I can tell you that you will be amazed at the difference when you correct the G2 drive voltage error. If you're experiencing the over brightness that I was seeing there is no way around reducing the G2 drive voltage. I was seeing 730 Vdc when I started out on this adventure with my G500. I've set myself up with the Hobby Engineering Max232 converter and reprogrammed my G2 setting from 186 down to 120 this put my g2 drive level at 580 Vdc and it is simply incredible the difference in color vibrance. You are right about the Image Restore/Color Restore whatever they name it. My G500 for the record is actually named Image Restore. But in the case of my poor G500 should read more like Image Destroy!! Cause it sure did a number on mine. And once it went out of whack that first and only successful time I tried it, There was no recovery from it. At least for me. I must have tried it a hundred times after it seemed to pass the re-calibration and it simply would go into this flashing amber light like I just switched off the computer. Then I would have to remove power for a minute or so to get a picture back. If you hit the local electronics house in your area(Not Radio Quack) a real professional house you'll find all the resistors you need to do a quick fix. I did the simpler Parallel resistor fix on mine to keep using it until I found out about the Windas + Max232 converter solution. If you can wait for the Hobby Engineering delivery I would highly recommend going this route. P991 DELL SONY has put up a superb website with all the details necessary to get you up and running. The plus to this is no soldering skills required. Just match the .100 4 pin Molex up to your monitor is all I had to do. The Hobby Engineering part is mis-wired for the ECS port as you'll see.
But it's super simple to remove the pins and match them up to your ECS port.
I'm really psyched about the feature set Windas presents and am now contemplating a VG-823 purchase to to a full scale professional alignment on my G500 and my wife's G520
Just my cents err sense as it were
Turbo
TURBO, per my previous post, is there also a way to adjust the RED out when I use the tutorial to darken the screen or is the red tent just a byproduct of the brightness?
i bought Sony E530 few weeks ago and i have noticed that both sides(left and right) are little bit lighter and fuzzyer. Middle of the screen picture is perfect. I would like to know that can i fix this problem with WinDas or is the tube going bad?
I have adjusted the convergence, but picture is only little bit better.
Monitor is manufactured in year 2002 and as far as in know it has been only in home use. Can i check the using hours somewhere in the menus?
I am now building the cable and will test some of the settings...
TURBO, per my previous post, is there also a way to adjust the RED out when I use the tutorial to darken the screen or is the red tent just a byproduct of the brightness?
Thank
sintz,
Yes you can adjust your color scales. Unfortunately this will involve a white balance calibration to be performed on your monitor. I'm just now researching what is necessary to perform this cal. I believe I'll need a VG-819 and a good colorimeter. So I'm trying to round these things up. This will set me back a bit since the VG-819's seem to go for $200+ and the good colorimeters are about the same amount. So for that much it's difficult to justify when I just bought my wife's CPD-G520 for $90 in perfect cosmetic and fuctional condition.
But I Love the image quality my CPD-G500 has had over the past 5 years so it's worth it to me. I've also discovered that reducing the G2 drive level isn't the cure for the over brightness problem. It certainly reduces the brightness but it also has thrown my color scale completely out of whack now. When I reduce the brightness everything becomes blue now and when I increase brightness everything appears yellow. So I'm sure I'll have to do a white balance calibration to restore the color to brightness scale. Fortunately at normal brightness levels everything looks great at the moment. But I'm going to try and complete a white balance calibration to restore color accuracy across the brightness adjustment range.
Yes you can adjust your color scales. Unfortunately this will involve a white balance calibration to be performed on your monitor. I'm just now researching what is necessary to perform this cal. I believe I'll need a VG-819 and a good colorimeter. So I'm trying to round these things up. This will set me back a bit since the VG-819's seem to go for $200+ and the good colorimeters are about the same amount. So for that much it's difficult to justify when I just bought my wife's CPD-G520 for $90 in perfect cosmetic and fuctional condition.
But I Love the image quality my CPD-G500 has had over the past 5 years so it's worth it to me. I've also discovered that reducing the G2 drive level isn't the cure for the over brightness problem. It certainly reduces the brightness but it also has thrown my color scale completely out of whack now. When I reduce the brightness everything becomes blue now and when I increase brightness everything appears yellow. So I'm sure I'll have to do a white balance calibration to restore the color to brightness scale. Fortunately at normal brightness levels everything looks great at the moment. But I'm going to try and complete a white balance calibration to restore color accuracy across the brightness adjustment range.
Turbo
Yeah, if you really want things perfect you can use one of the signal generators that are driven by windas. As you noticed it's very expensive, but you'll end up with the best picture possible.
You can still change values individually like you changed the G2, but, it's difficult to get just right.
You had emailed me about the 'el cheapo' route, using a computer as a signal generator.
I've only done it with linux (or any other OS that can run XWindows). If I were more skilled/motivated, I'd had programmed the video card registers raw for both linux and windows PCs, but, I'll leave that as an exercise for you (not impossible, the problem is that different cards do it differently when you set modes beyond VESA/VGA, hence why there are different drivers) Speaking of it, I wonder if most windows drivers have the ability to set modes from modelines like those below.
Here are the modelines you will need in either case, I did the math on the 'Manual SG' prompts you get from windas. Windas gives it in timings, so you have to divide by the time of a video signal clock pulse to get the number of pulses before the vertical sync, horizontal sync etc.
So I guess it's funny you have to have Windows, AND Unix, while usually, people have only one or the other. Sorry about that. Use a bootable CD distro like Knoppix, if you have to. I think it can mount NTFS and FAT32 atleast read only. You can also run Windas in the WINE emulator, so I guess Unix users don't have to go find a copy of windows after all.
And attached is the quick, totally undocumented program source code to the little pattern generator I made with the Allegro graphics library. Take it or leave it. It should atleast give you a starting point to write your own patterns... actually, this makes it even more complicated, as the bootable CD probably doesn't have allegro? So.. You'll have to download the lib onto your windows drive, then copy it from there into the bootable cd's ram filesystem.
Sorry this gets so irritating.. It really could be more simple if some one familiar with using windows video drivers would make a pattern program. Or if some one would program the pattern generator to use only xlib.
But, if you want, skip the mode setting, and just use any old pattern generator in plain old 1024x768 or whatever., mode setting isn't too critical when doing white balance, convergence, or anything like that. Just make sure you know your X IRE grays. And all of this is only if you want to make your whie balance PERFECT with a colorimeter, adjusting the G2 or doing Dynamic convergence doesn't require any of this. It could help in the case of convergence though (converge on anything but a white crosshatch and you will go insane)
BTW, the howto should be able to be hosted here on short-media, PrimeSuspect has contacted Sony about hosting the latest windas software! This is all speculation though, and in all likelyhood, sony will say 'No', but it's possible.
i bought Sony E530 few weeks ago and i have noticed that both sides(left and right) are little bit lighter and fuzzyer. Middle of the screen picture is perfect. I would like to know that can i fix this problem with WinDas or is the tube going bad?
I have adjusted the convergence, but picture is only little bit better.
Monitor is manufactured in year 2002 and as far as in know it has been only in home use. Can i check the using hours somewhere in the menus?
I am now building the cable and will test some of the settings...
-jnf
Cannot get the cable working so i am planning to buy it from ebay where Claude has also ordered it.
I have also noticed that monitor is kind of flickering when i start my computer. Monitor is looking like working 60hz while menu gives 1280x1024x85hz. After 20-30minutes picture stabizes and it is pretty ok, but in my eyes i can still notice very small flickering (while my -97 19" Hitachi is not flickering at all).
Does anyone nows what components could cause this kind of problems? Bad capasitors? Any possibilities to fix with windas?
I recently obtained a Sony FW900 with the overbrightness problem (mfr in Aug. 2003) . I bought the cable and fixed the G2 with windas (original 156, now 138). It looks pretty good now at 40 brightness but for some reason i cannot get the black level to look dark enough.
For example if i put up a blank screensaver it doesn't look like the monitor is off. There is always a slight but noticeable gray luminance to the black no matter what i set the brightness at. I know this isn't right since my other monitors (two G520P's and a Mitsu 2060u) all go perfectly black once the brightness at or below the 30-40 range.
Does anyone know what might be causing that? I've tried many different G2 settings and it won't go away so the solution must be elsewhere.
This monitor also has a green tint, which i can fix using the expert color controls but is there a better way? I've had success in the past using image restore to fix a green tint on one of my G520P's. But when i run image restore on this FW900 it resets the G2 back to its original overbright value and changes the tint from green to red.
Is it possible to somehow make image restore see my fixed G2 setting rather than the old one? I figure that might make it work again..
Comments
read the thread from the beginning and all will be explained
There is no r459 in the P1130, and if you choose the resistor fix approach, you need to follow the G2 cable from the A1 board (connected to the neck of the monitor) to the main board (D board), then the resistor r941, which is the one next to the cable, needs to be increased.
"In order to solder another resistor in parallel, you need to un-mount the D2 board and that involves removing the CRT, the CRT housing, and the A boards, besides several cables, connectors and grounds. There are several high voltage components inside a monitor which can be lethal. This is very tedious work, and unless you are familiar with electronics and have previous experience in working with monitors, I do not recommend this approach.
See attachment.
The R941 resistor is a 22M ohm resistor and from searching the net people have replaced it with an 16.8M ohm resistor. Thanks again LAGRUNAUER, and all others for there valuable insight.
I have the schematics of both the p1100 and the p1130 if anyone would like them.
Here is another fix that may work for you.
Press and hold the select key on the front panel of the monitor for more than 2 sec when the monitor is in standby mode. Your screen will go bright then fade alittle. The LED lights will flash amber and green. When the screen stops to fade you can restart your monitor.
Some other unrelated functions are:
Pressing and holding the up arrow button gives you the serial number, whilst pressing and holding the + button gives more detail manufacturing info.
The monitor looks ok for a split second when I turn the monitor off and right after it clicks off, the screen shows! Is there any way for me to fix this? Or even understand what is wrong. Thanks for reading, please help.
If you want to do a colour return on the p991 you just need to press the menu select button for about 5 seconds whilst the monitor is on and in standby. Having your computer off and monitor on is easiest.
I also noticed that prior to running the Color Restore function my brightness was only slightly higher than I wanted but acceptable when set to 0. However after running the Color Restore I had severe raster retrace lines on screen all the time and rediculous brightness that washed out the color. The first Color Restore I tried appeared to have passed But upon returning to the display I found severe raster retrace lines that were spaced about 1 inch apart from top to bottom diagonally across the screen. I have to believe that somehow the Color Restore wrote a bogus value into the E²PROM.
I'm currently in the process of learning the Windas software and figuring out how to set all the default factory values as near to perfection for my monitor as possible.
I couldn't have done it without you guys. You all ROCK!!!
Thank you all so much!!!!
Turbo
DB9??? DB25???? They both have the pins you need!
All you need is TX, RX and GRND. Look at the pinouts, or read my howto.
[URL="WINDAS HOWTO: EXPLAINS IT ALL"]http://www.geocities.com/gregua/windas/[/URL]
Electronics confusing you? Buy a prebuilt adapter!
My howto mentions several options for building, and an option for buying an adapter.
http://cgi.ebay.ca/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=7595437368&rd=1&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWN%3AIT&rd=1
This is a very cheap prebuilt adapter, one user has said it 'doesn't work', however, I believe it works as it is exactly the chip you need. It's so far the cheapest prebuilt solution at 19$ including shipping. It also uses the DB9 port, so it debunks the myth that you need a DB25.
No serial DB9 or DB25 RS-232(serial) ports? Use USB!
Yes, some chips take the TTL signals and put them onto USB. I have not tried any of this yet, but if one of you wants something to do, you can try this. It works, but I don't have the chip to try it with.
But, if you have the serial port, use it, you won't get any advantage using USB.
Color Return Not working?Doubts about the software fix and black level?
Color return Is what caused this whole fiasco, my current theory is that it raises your G2 to compensate monitor aging, but the flawed algorithm can't measure the effect of G2.
I have calibrated my monitor's color ON THE DOT, with windas 'White Balance Procedure'and a colorimiter, and I have not had to raise the G2 very high.
I am at brightness level 60 ( not that it means anything, as the scale is calibrated), and my Avatar is completely visible, black is black in the dark etc. Your monitor still has life in it, Color Return has just made a mistake.
If perfect color is critical to you, do the whole recalibration with Windas and a colorimiter! Colorimiters can be found used on ebay, and, most importantly, can be sold on ebay for around the same price, they are light and easy to ship. I got my for 55$ including shipping. After recalibration your monitor will be as good as it possibly can be, and you'll know, to a great precision, just how bright or tinted it is, if at all. So this makes for completely acureate colorspace calibration.
The windas white balance procedure, when done with a colorimiter, will re calibrate the settings for color return, such that it works again, however, if you havn't sold your colorimeter, use it instead.
DO NOT use colorimeter software to make color profiles, these modify your video cards signal to match the mis calibration of your monitor. Only use a colorimiter to take readings while you adjust the hardware of the monitor using WinDAS Whitebalance Procedure. You may need to modify the video cards signal for gamma correction, other than that, don't fool with the video signal.
Only touched the G2?Color return likely will make same mistakes.
If your monitor is acceptable after adjusting the G2, don't touch color return! As I understand, after software adjusting your G2, brightness/contrast controlls still behave acceptably. Speak up if you know this isn't the case.
Color return has bug in it and will bump your G2 too high, such that even retrace lines become visible.
Know something we don't? Speak up!
PrimeSuspect is interested in consolodating the information in this thread, so that you won't have to read past a swamp of posts just to get an idea what fixes are available.
If you discovered anything interesting, even if it's as simple as something you had to do to get things working right, post it. It helps make instructions more fail safe.
Chances are, other people are in the same boat as you.
Thank you for posting your experience! At a G2 of 120 does the brightness/contrast behave normally? I agree with you that color return doesn't work correctly, another user mentioned that a Sony/Dell monitor of simmiliar use and age never developed over-brightness, while another with the color restore function did. If you do the whitebalance procedure (don't try it without a colorimeter), you can recalibrate color return, it seems to work off of the settings under =color in the .dat. Other than that, It's best to leave color return alone.
if you have made any other connection with that leaked solder, you have lowered the resistance between the G2 pin on the CRT tube, and that cable that comes from the power supply board. This will mean your screen will be too dark.
So yeah, I bet you knew that already.
hmm, maybe if you remove the resistor all together, it may be too bright?Maybe it will destroy the leaked solder connection?Maybe it will break something?
Sorry, all I can really say is that I think you're right, you leaked solder and so lowered the resistance. Do you have a sony monitor?You could have tried the windas fix.
can anyone post a list of all the parameters as a reference? I am sure someone here has figured out all the parameters.
Hehe, wonder how much sony charges the service guys for the interface cable and windas
thnx
P991 DELL SONY,
Yeah with my G2 at a value of 120 my G500 is better than when new!! I bought the monitor 5 years ago when the monitor was less than a year old. It has a Mfg date of May 2000. Back then my brightness was set to 30. Over the last 5 years I've noticed I slowly had to reduce the brightness down to 0. It has been at 0 for about the last 8-12 month's but finally around Christmas 05' I could not deal with the gray looking black's appearing on my screen.
So I googled G500 over brightness problem and found this thread.
Since adjusting the G2 down to 120 the brightness and contrast seem to function perfectly. I had never tried the Image Restore function on my G500 and decided to try this out. That's when my monitor wigged out and became unusable. The brightness was so severe that there were these diagonal raster retrace lines all over the screen. I was afraid my monitor would self destruct by burning the CRT phosphor. So I shut it down and went to my local electronics house and bought 6.8M, 12M, 14M, 16M, 18M, 20M, & 22 Megohm 1/2 watt resistors and decided to try out the parallel resistor fix. I found by experimentation that with the 18 Megohm resistor added across R459 my G2 voltage was reduced from 730 Vdc down to 600 vdc and my brightness looked good again.
The resistance went from 9.9 Megohms to 6.6 Megohms as read on my Fluke 87 DVM. This was acceptable initially for me to continue using the monitor. But I really wanted to get the Windas interface working so I built my own breadboard adapter and wasted several hours fiddling with it and it never worked so I ordered the Hobby Engineering adapter and rewired it to match the ECS port on my monitor and "Bang"! It worked right off the bat!
I then removed the 18 Megohm resistor and adjusted the G2 down to 120 and when I measure the G2 voltage I found 580 Vdc From G2 Gnd(Black wire) to G2 hot(The red wire). I have the RS-232 cable routed around my office nicely tucked out of sight so I can tweak it any time.
I absolutely Love this monitor and would like to keep it running this well for a long long time
And I've just picked up a G520 for my wife's prime system as well! I'm just sure I'll be tweakin' it too
I'll keep posting my findings as I go along since I've bookmarked this thread and get email notifications.
I bought this adapter and should be receiving it next mondday or tuesday ( i hope), i will report in when i connect it to my monitor ( dell P1110).
EQUIPMENT
Max 232 chip
Serial cable (I used a Db9)
Wires (I cut up a USB header to get the .001 4 pin connector to connect to the monitor. A floppy power cord is equally as good.)
5 1 uf capacitors (ceramic 104M)
Prepare the Serial Cable
There are many ways to connect a serial cable to the breadboard, I found the easiest was to solder wires to the male pins. I found that cutting the cable for the wires was pointless as I couldn’t match the colours up with the pins as I only had a moulded cable.. Another way is to just stick the wires into a the female connector i(if you have a female to female cord) or stick them into the serial port of the computer.
To connect the serial cable to the breadboard you will be using pins 2 (tx), 3 (rx) 5 (grd). (if you are using a db25 cable then pin 2=rx 3=tx and 7=grd ) But before you do this you must close the circuit by connecting pins 4 (dtr) 6 (dsr) 8 (cts) together, (db25 pins 20, 6, 5). I managed to run some solder over each pin. Or use a female to female cord and just stick wires into each.
PIN CONNECTOR
2 TX
3 RX
5 GROUND
FUSE PINS 4 6 8
ECS (TTL) to Breadboard
For this I cut up a USB header (cost 5 dollars) for the connection to the monitor. Or you can use a spare Floppy drive power cord, or stick the wires into the monitor with blue tack.
CONNECTING THE CIRCUIT
You can use the numbers on the breadboard to help you to connect the circuit
Insert the max 232 chip into the top of the board with the small dot on the chip (pin 1) in D1 and pin 16 in F1.
Insert The Capacitors.
CAP1 D1……..D3
CAP2 D2……..G1
CAP3 D4……..D5
CAP4 D6……..G2
CAP5 BLUE 1…RED 1 ( FURTHER MOST FIGHT ROW IN THE ELECTRICAL SEGMENT OF THE BOARD)
INSERT THE WIRES (DB9)
SERIAL CABLE BB LOCATION NEXT TO PIN ON CHIP
PIN2 (TX)…….… D7 7=TX =T2OUT
PIN3 (RX)………… D8 8=RX=R2IN
PIN5 (GRD)....... BLUE 4
FROM THE MONITOR ECS, TTL TO BREADBOARD
WIRE BB LOCATION NEXT TO PIN ON CHIP
1=GROUND BLUE1
2=5+ RED1
3=RX G7 9=RX=R2OUT
4=TX G8 10=TX=T2IN
LINK THE CIRCUIT CONNECT THE BRIDGING WIRES TO THE BREADBOARD
WIRE BB LOCATION
1 H1….....RED3
2 H2…….G4
3 H4…….I10
4 G6…….H10
5 J10…...BLUE3
That’s it you're all finished…. Secure the serial and the ttl parts with some tape and connect to your computer and monitor.
I wish i had the skills to do that. :tongue2:
I considered doing the resistor but I use this monitor in film production and can't have any shadows and picture alteration, so I patiently waited until now. I see WinDAS may work for me but I have a queston, nothing that I've seen that has been covered here, or maybe I missed it.
First, I have a very bright picture on this monitor and there is no real black. I will assume the change in the tutorial will do my brightness problem fine.
My question is, the washed out black has a red tint. To get it to gray I have to turn the red bias all the way to zero and bump up the blue and green a tad. Should the correction to the brightness correct that problem or will I have to lower the red gain also to get it back to where it needs to be? If so, how can I do that without the device mentioned above to adjust color balance? Is it possible to just lower that a bit at a time also until the gain isn't too bright or is the just an effect of the brightness adjustment causing it to be out of balance?
Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated as I plan on ordering my connector Monday if they come in and have a film coming up in a week or so that I will need the monitor. I have a backup 21" but even though it has great black and color, it's not quite as sharp as the triniton tube.
Thanks
TC
I got it home an tinkered around with setting the brightness to zero and the contrast to 100 and it was very much improved but not good enough. I went into my video card settings and tweaked the color around and it is almost perfect...although I have nothing to compare it too right now.
I haven't tried doing the "color return" feature yet because I have read on here that it may disable some control settings? My question is, is the picture quality not as good as it could be by adjusting the video card settings as opposed to trying the "color return" feature or soldering in the new resistor? If I can get this thing humping good with no video card correction I may buy a couple more of these to give to friends and family.
Any opinions are appreciated.
BroHam I can't really speak from experience concerning your model of monitor since I don't own the Dell P1110. But I do own a Sony CPD-G500 which is based on the Sony G1 platform that I think the P1110 is also based. And I can tell you that you will be amazed at the difference when you correct the G2 drive voltage error. If you're experiencing the over brightness that I was seeing there is no way around reducing the G2 drive voltage. I was seeing 730 Vdc when I started out on this adventure with my G500. I've set myself up with the Hobby Engineering Max232 converter and reprogrammed my G2 setting from 186 down to 120 this put my g2 drive level at 580 Vdc and it is simply incredible the difference in color vibrance. You are right about the Image Restore/Color Restore whatever they name it. My G500 for the record is actually named Image Restore. But in the case of my poor G500 should read more like Image Destroy!!
But it's super simple to remove the pins and match them up to your ECS port.
I'm really psyched about the feature set Windas presents and am now contemplating a VG-823 purchase to do a full scale professional alignment on my G500 and my wife's G520
Just my cents err sense as it were
Turbo
I am having a bit of a problem getting it to work on my P1110 .
The adapter has
VCC
RXD
TXD
GND
CTS
RTS
What i wanted to know from people why got their adapters to works is,when you're facing your monitor from the back looking at the service port what are the order of the pins?
My understanding is that from Top going down is
GND
+5
RX
TX
is this order correct?
Thank you.
I got it working & adjusted my monitor.:):headbange
The setting from Back is
GND
VCC (+5)
TXD
RXD .
Just in case anybody want to know my G2 was at 167 so i dropped it to 140 might try 135 later but for now it's all good . :thumbup
TURBO, per my previous post, is there also a way to adjust the RED out when I use the tutorial to darken the screen or is the red tent just a byproduct of the brightness?
Thank
i bought Sony E530 few weeks ago and i have noticed that both sides(left and right) are little bit lighter and fuzzyer. Middle of the screen picture is perfect. I would like to know that can i fix this problem with WinDas or is the tube going bad?
I have adjusted the convergence, but picture is only little bit better.
Monitor is manufactured in year 2002 and as far as in know it has been only in home use. Can i check the using hours somewhere in the menus?
I am now building the cable and will test some of the settings...
-jnf
sintz,
Yes you can adjust your color scales. Unfortunately this will involve a white balance calibration to be performed on your monitor. I'm just now researching what is necessary to perform this cal. I believe I'll need a VG-819 and a good colorimeter. So I'm trying to round these things up. This will set me back a bit since the VG-819's seem to go for $200+ and the good colorimeters are about the same amount. So for that much it's difficult to justify when I just bought my wife's CPD-G520 for $90 in perfect cosmetic and fuctional condition.
But I Love the image quality my CPD-G500 has had over the past 5 years so it's worth it to me. I've also discovered that reducing the G2 drive level isn't the cure for the over brightness problem. It certainly reduces the brightness but it also has thrown my color scale completely out of whack now. When I reduce the brightness everything becomes blue now and when I increase brightness everything appears yellow. So I'm sure I'll have to do a white balance calibration to restore the color to brightness scale. Fortunately at normal brightness levels everything looks great at the moment. But I'm going to try and complete a white balance calibration to restore color accuracy across the brightness adjustment range.
Turbo
post the results, so I'm adding to the
Continuing Saga of the Dell P1110 series, Sony 21"
Unit had no filament voltage, dead screen, HV OK on startup.
Replaced the BA00AST regulator on the Power supply board
top edge, with a replacement from
BlueStar International Components, 3.99 + S/H
Filaments back up, at 4.85 volts, seems a little low, but
on with testing....
Found G2 @ 612 VDC, lowered the upper resistor to 5.1 Megs
Brightness now Normal.
Measured G2 @ 480 VDC now.
Couldn't rationalize the 2++ hours to Bill Gates / Sony for
the DAS software & updates, so I went for the resistor.
Also, the BA00AST had a 1.2 ohm dropper in close proximity
to the IC, must be Sony thought the IC needed company.
Bent it away as much as possible.
IC heating now seems reasonable.
Thanks a bunch.
LN
BTW, the guys(gals) at
http://www.Bluestar-online.com really rocked,
Had the part in 2 days USPS ....
Yeah, if you really want things perfect you can use one of the signal generators that are driven by windas. As you noticed it's very expensive, but you'll end up with the best picture possible.
You can still change values individually like you changed the G2, but, it's difficult to get just right.
You had emailed me about the 'el cheapo' route, using a computer as a signal generator.
I've only done it with linux (or any other OS that can run XWindows). If I were more skilled/motivated, I'd had programmed the video card registers raw for both linux and windows PCs, but, I'll leave that as an exercise for you
Here are the modelines you will need in either case, I did the math on the 'Manual SG' prompts you get from windas. Windas gives it in timings, so you have to divide by the time of a video signal clock pulse to get the number of pulses before the vertical sync, horizontal sync etc.
### Uncomment if you don't want to default to DDC:
Identifier "Monitor0"
VendorName "DEL"
ModelName "DELL P991"
HorizSync 29.0 - 107.5
VertRefresh 47.0 - 120.5
ModeLine "600x468" 24.5 600 691 755 832 468 519 522 589 -hsync -vsync
ModeLine "640x560" 23.7 640 656 720 800 560 587 590 625 +hsync -vsync
ModeLine "960x828" 140.5 960 1032 1136 1312 828 829 832 888 -hsync +vsync
ModeLine "900x970" 100.0 900 938 1045 1164 970 971 974 1011 +hsync +vsync
ModeLine "1024x768" 78.8 1024 1040 1136 1312 768 769 772 800 +hsync +vsync
ModeLine "1024x780" 58.6 1024 1092 1156 1220 780 782 785 800 +hsync +vsync
ModeLine "1280x1440@" 135.0 1280 1296 1440 1688 1440 1441 1444 1600 +hsync +vsync
ModeLine "1280x1440#" 135.0 1280 1296 1440 1688 1440 1544 1547 1600 +hsync +vsync
ModeLine "720x400@70" 28.3 720 738 828 900 400 413 415 449 -hsync +vsync
ModeLine "640x480@60" 25.2 640 656 752 800 480 490 492 525 -hsync -vsync
Option "DPMS"
### These are modes for DAS alignment
Mac OS X also uses Xwindows.
So I guess it's funny you have to have Windows, AND Unix, while usually, people have only one or the other. Sorry about that. Use a bootable CD distro like Knoppix, if you have to. I think it can mount NTFS and FAT32 atleast read only. You can also run Windas in the WINE emulator, so I guess Unix users don't have to go find a copy of windows after all.
And attached is the quick, totally undocumented program source code to the little pattern generator I made with the Allegro graphics library. Take it or leave it. It should atleast give you a starting point to write your own patterns... actually, this makes it even more complicated, as the bootable CD probably doesn't have allegro? So.. You'll have to download the lib onto your windows drive, then copy it from there into the bootable cd's ram filesystem.
Sorry this gets so irritating.. It really could be more simple if some one familiar with using windows video drivers would make a pattern program. Or if some one would program the pattern generator to use only xlib.
But, if you want, skip the mode setting, and just use any old pattern generator in plain old 1024x768 or whatever., mode setting isn't too critical when doing white balance, convergence, or anything like that. Just make sure you know your X IRE grays. And all of this is only if you want to make your whie balance PERFECT with a colorimeter, adjusting the G2 or doing Dynamic convergence doesn't require any of this. It could help in the case of convergence though (converge on anything but a white crosshatch and you will go insane)
Good luck. http://www.geocities.com/gregua/windas/
BTW, the howto should be able to be hosted here on short-media, PrimeSuspect has contacted Sony about hosting the latest windas software! This is all speculation though, and in all likelyhood, sony will say 'No', but it's possible.
This is the BEST deal on a prebuilt cable, confirmed to work by Claude! Thanks!
http://cgi.ebay.ca/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=7595437368&rd=1&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWN%3AIT&rd=1
Cannot get the cable working so i am planning to buy it from ebay where Claude has also ordered it.
I have also noticed that monitor is kind of flickering when i start my computer. Monitor is looking like working 60hz while menu gives 1280x1024x85hz. After 20-30minutes picture stabizes and it is pretty ok, but in my eyes i can still notice very small flickering (while my -97 19" Hitachi is not flickering at all).
Does anyone nows what components could cause this kind of problems? Bad capasitors? Any possibilities to fix with windas?
I recently obtained a Sony FW900 with the overbrightness problem (mfr in Aug. 2003) . I bought the cable and fixed the G2 with windas (original 156, now 138). It looks pretty good now at 40 brightness but for some reason i cannot get the black level to look dark enough.
For example if i put up a blank screensaver it doesn't look like the monitor is off. There is always a slight but noticeable gray luminance to the black no matter what i set the brightness at. I know this isn't right since my other monitors (two G520P's and a Mitsu 2060u) all go perfectly black once the brightness at or below the 30-40 range.
Does anyone know what might be causing that? I've tried many different G2 settings and it won't go away so the solution must be elsewhere.
This monitor also has a green tint, which i can fix using the expert color controls but is there a better way? I've had success in the past using image restore to fix a green tint on one of my G520P's. But when i run image restore on this FW900 it resets the G2 back to its original overbright value and changes the tint from green to red.
Is it possible to somehow make image restore see my fixed G2 setting rather than the old one? I figure that might make it work again..